PREMIUM PWM6010M (01) PDF DOCUMENT

Please follow these safety precautions when using your PREMIUM PWM6010M washing machine:

Do not dismantle the machine by yourself.

Do not install the machine in a damp or rainy environment to avoid electric shock, fire, machine failure, or deformation.

Do not place inflammable materials like a burning candle, mosquito incense, cigarette, etc., or a heating source like an electric stove or calorifier on the machine.

Do not spray water directly onto the machine.

Do not let a baby sit on the machine or place heavy things on it.

Do not wash clothes that are stained with kerosene, petrol, alcohol, and other flammable substances.

Make sure that the water inlet hose is connected and the tap is opened before washing.

Do not exceed the maximum water level to avoid water overflowing and machine failure.

To avoid electric shock resulting from electric leakage, please connect the grounding wire of the plug properly.

Do not let a baby climb on the machine or play near the running tub to avoid an accident.

If you use warm water, the water temperature should not exceed 50°C.

Do not wash down-filled coats, raincoats, or similar clothes.

Wipe off dirt and dust on the plug often to prevent poor contact with the power supply.

Do not put hands into the tub before it has stopped running.

Do not replace the power cord by yourself.

Do not damage the power cord and plug to avoid electric shock, short circuit, or fire.

Insert the plug tightly when in use.

Do not pull the cord when unplugging the plug.

Do not insert or unplug the plug with wet hands to avoid electric shock.

Unplug the plug from the socket after use.

If your PREMIUM PWM6010M is making an unusual sound or washing weakly, check the following possible causes and solutions:

a. Laundry is much more than rated washing capacity.

Solution: Reduce the laundry until the pulsator can rotate normally.

b. Pulsator is tangled with clothes or blocked by things like coins.

Solution: Take off the plug, remove the pulsator and take out the tangled clothes or other things.

c. V-belt is loose, broken or has fallen from the strap wheel.

Solution: Replace v-belt or reload the v-belt.

d. Pulley is broken or pulley screw is loose.

Solution: Replace the pulley or tighten the pulley locking screw.

e. Capacitor failure.

Solution: Replace the capacitor.

f. Wash-drain selection switch does not work.

Solution: Replace the switch.

If your PREMIUM PWM6010M won’t wash and the motor doesn’t rotate, consider these possible reasons and solutions:

a. Power supply is cut off or there is poor contact of the plug and socket.

Solution: Check the power supply and adjust the plug to ensure good contact.

b. Voltage is too low.

Solution: Do not use the washing machine until the voltage rises to the rated voltage.

c. Wash timer is in poor contact or faulted.

Solution: Check the wire harness or replace the wash timer.

d. Fuse is burned.

Solution: Replace the fuse.

e. Wash motor failure.

Solution: Replace the wash motor.

If you are experiencing electric leakage from your PREMIUM PWM6010M, check the following:

a. A conductive wire or live part in the machine is in contact with the metal cabinet.

Solution: Check the wire connecting in the machine.

b. Bad grounding wire.

Solution: Check the grounding wire.

c. There is an issue with the 2 power lines of the power supply.

Solution: Examine and replace the power supply.

d. Weak insulation strength of the motor.

Solution: Replace the motor.

e. The insulation layer of the wire harness is broken.

Solution: Examine the wire harness and bind up the broken wire.

If the spin tub on your PREMIUM PWM6010M will not rotate, check these possible causes:

a. Spin motor winding is burned.

Solution: If the motor is damaged because of water leakage from the spin tub, check the reason for the leakage and solve the problem.

b. Fuse is burned.

Solution: Replace the fuse.

c. Spin timer does not work.

Solution: Replace the spin timer.

d. Capacitor failure.

Solution: Replace the capacitor.

e. Cable joint is loosened.

Solution: Join the cable with a pair of pliers.

If the spin start is too long or the spin tub bumps the outer tub, check these points:

a. Clothes in the spin tub are placed unevenly.

Solution: Make the clothes even.

b. Laundry is much more than the rated load.

Solution: Reduce the load.

c. The drain hose is not placed properly or too much water is stored in the spin tub.

Solution: Place the drain hose properly and do not use it until water in the spin tub is drained completely.

d. The pull-in torque of the spin motor is low.

Solution: Replace the spin motor.

e. The capacity of the capacitor is low.

Solution: Replace the capacitor.

f. The brake plate is too near to the connector.

Solution: Adjust the position of the brake belt and belt hanging hole to keep a proper space between the brake plate and the connector.

An unusual sound during spinning can be caused by the following issues:

a. There is a lack of oil for the oil-retaining bearing of the spin tub rotating shaft.

Solution: Lubricate the oil-retaining bearing.

b. External things, like socks, exist between the spin tub and wash tub.

Solution: Take off the spin tub and remove the extra things.

c. The machine is not placed evenly or the laundry is not placed evenly.

Solution: Place the machine on flat ground and adjust the laundry.

d. Unusual sound from the spin motor.

Solution: Replace the spin motor.

e. The brake plate is too near to the connector.

Solution: Adjust the position of the brake belt and belt hanging hole to keep a proper space between the brake plate and the connector.

If the pulsator makes an unusual sound during rotation, please check the following:

a. There are things like coins or buttons under the pulsator.

Solution: Dismantle the pulsator and take out the things.

b. The fixing screw has become loose and the pulsator vibrates.

Solution: Tighten the fixing screw.

c. The gear in the retarder is damaged.

Solution: Replace the retarder.

d. The anti-loose nuts on the big pulley have become loose, so the wheel jumps and makes unusual noise.

Solution: Screw tight the anti-loose nuts.

e. The v-belt is not smooth and makes noise when running on the pulley.

Solution: Replace the v-belt.

f. The motor pulley and the big pulley are not at the same level.

Solution: Adjust the motor pulley to make it at the same level with the big pulley.

g. There is noise inside the wash motor.

Solution: Replace the wash motor.

If your machine is not draining or draining slowly, follow these steps based on your model type:

a. For lower drain function only: The hose is not put down.

Solution: Put down the drain hose and direct the hose mouth to the sewer.

b. The wash-drain selection switch is not in the “drain” position.

Solution: Turn the switch to the “drain” position.

c. For upper drain function only: The drain outlet is not laid properly.

Solution: The drain hose should be placed 86 cm-100cm from the bottom of the ground.

d. For upper drain function only: Drain pump failure.

Solution: Replace the pump or open the valve cover to clear up the pump.

e. The drain outlet is blocked at the side of the wash tub.

Solution: Dismantle the pulsator and take out the blocks at the drain outlet.

f. The drain belt has fallen from the switch.

Solution: Connect the drain belt with the switch.

g. The drain belt is loosened or broken.

Solution: Replace the drain belt.

If the spin tub brake is performing poorly, check the following:

a. The safety switch contact does not open when you open the spin cover.

Solution: Adjust the safety switch contact.

b. The tightwire kit has become loose.

Solution: Reload the brake belt or brake steel wire.

c. The brake plate is badly worn.

Solution: Replace the brake plate.

d. The brake belt is too tight.

Solution: Adjust the position of the drain belt and brake belt hanging hole to keep a proper space between the brake plate and coupler.

If water is leaking from the wash tub, please check these possible causes:

a. The wash tub leaks.

Solution: Replace the wash tub.

b. The seal ring of the retarder leaks.

Solution: Replace the seal ring of the retarder.

c. The overflow hose is broken and water leaks from the broken place.

Solution: Replace the overflow hose.

d. The drain valve core is broken and water leaks from the valve cover.

Solution: Replace the drain valve core.

e. The drain hose joint is badly bound and water leaks from the joint.

Solution: Dismantle the drain hose joint and stick them again.

Water leakage from the spin tub may be due to the following:

a. The rubber damper is not properly fixed and water leaks from the brim of the rubber damper.

Solution: Replace the rubber damper.

b. The spin seal is broken and water leaks from the broken place.

Solution: Replace the spin seal.

c. The diameter of the spin shaft has become smaller because of abrasion.

Solution: Replace the spin tub.

Follow this fault-finding guide if your machine will not wash:

1. Check if the power supply is working well. If not, check the power supply. If yes, continue.

2. Check if the plug has good contact in the socket. If not, adjust the plug to ensure good contact. If yes, continue.

3. Check if the voltage is correct. If not, wait for the voltage to rise to the correct level. If yes, continue.

4. Check if the wash timer is working well. If not, replace the wash timer. If yes, continue.

5. Check if the fuse is well. If not, replace the fuse. If yes, continue.

6. Check if the capacitor is well. If not, replace the capacitor. If yes, continue.

7. Check if the wash motor is well. If not, replace the wash motor.

Follow this diagnostic guide if the spin tub will not rotate:

1. Check if the spin motor is working well. If not, replace the spin motor. If yes, continue.

2. Check if the safety switch is working well. If not, replace the safety switch. If yes, continue.

3. Check if the fuse is well. If not, replace the fuse. If yes, continue.

4. Check if the spin timer is working well. If not, replace the spin timer. If yes, continue.

5. Check if the capacitor is well. If not, replace the capacitor. If yes, continue.

6. Check if the cable joint is well. If not, join the cable with a pair of pliers.

Follow these steps if your machine is not draining or the drain is unsmooth:

1. Check the position of the drain hose. For lower drain function models, ensure the drain hose is put down. If not, put it down. For upper drain function models, ensure the drain hose is laid properly (86cm-100cm from the bottom of the ground). If not, adjust it. If the hose is positioned correctly, continue.

2. Check if the drain hose at the side of the wash tub is blocked. If it is, dismantle the pulsator and take out the blocks in the water drain hose. If not, continue.

3. Check if the wash-drain selection switch is in the “drain” position. If not, turn the switch to the “drain” position. If yes, continue.

4. Check if the drain belt is well. If not, replace the drain belt. If yes, continue.

5. Check if the drain belt is on the switch. If not, hang the drain belt onto the switch. If yes, continue.

6. For upper drain function models only: Check if the drain pump is well. If not, replace the drain pump.

a. Take out the knobs directly, as they are inserted into the control panel.

b. If it is difficult to take the knobs out, a straight screwdriver wrapped with cloth can be used for help.

a. Take down the back cover by loosening off the screws.

b. Take down the bag by cutting off the nylon clip. Take down all wire nuts with a plier and make all wire clamps loose. Then unfasten the drain belt connector.

c. Unfasten the screws on the control panel.

d. The control panel can now be lifted and removed.

a. Open the spin tub cover. Loosen the connector of the brake belt.

b. Keep the spin tub cover open and remove the hinge spring.

c. The spin cover can be drawn out by swinging.

a. Unscrew the pulsator screw.

b. Draw out the pulsator with your hands.

Press the lint filter subassembly and then pull it out.

a. Screw off the fixing screws of the frame.

b. Screw off the screws under the handles at both sides of the frame.

c. Screw off the stainless steel screw on the top surface of the frame.

d. The frame can then be removed.

a. Unscrew the fixing screw under the tub with a socket wrench.

b. The spin tub can be removed then.

a. Press the V-belt at the part near the pulley. Then take down the V-belt by rotating the pulley.

b. Spread a blanket on the floor and lay down the washing machine. Pull out the drain hose from the clamp and draw out the drain hose subassembly. After the screws on the base are unscrewed, the base assembly can be disassembled.

Loosen the nut with a special wrench, then loosen the screw.

Hold the capacitor firm and then pull it out.

Loose the fixing screw and then draw the brake wheel out.

Turn the wash timer to the work condition. Use a multimeter to measure the connection and disconnection condition of the input terminal (brown wire) and output terminal (yellow or orange wire). The wash timer should be regular on-off.

Use a multimeter to test the two conducting wires. If the spin timer is in working condition, the two wires should be conductive.

Use a multimeter to measure the selection switch. The switch should be regular on-off.

The safety switch should be in a closure state when the spin tub cover is closed. You can test this for continuity with a multimeter.

Use an analog multimeter to measure capacitance by connecting the two ends of the capacitor with the multimeter rod connectors. If the pointer swings to the direction of smaller resistance and then turns back to the direction of “0” slowly, it means that the capacitor is ok. If not, it means that the capacitor is faulted.

You can test the motor in three ways:

1. Check for motor insulation damage:

Use a 500V megohmmeter to measure whether the insulation resistance of the motor is higher than 30MΩ. At the same time, check whether the other resistances of the motor are normal. If other resistances are abnormal (any short-circuit or open circuit appears), the motor cannot be used. Only if both items are normal, the motor can be used.

2. Check motor resistance in no-water condition:

Use a multimeter to measure the resistance of the three leads, and name them R1, R2, R3. Only if “R1+R2=R3” is true does it indicate that the motor resistance is normal.

3. Check motor operation condition:

Use a power cable with a fuse to connect the motor and capacitor correctly, and take preparation for insulation. For the motor under use, add certain 20# machine oil on the upper and down bearing to eliminate the negative effect arising from water leakage. After powering on the two components, there should be no obvious noise, vibration, or odor from the motor.