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What safety precautions should be followed when using the PREMIUM PWM8010M washing machine?
Please adhere to the following safety precautions when using your PREMIUM PWM8010M washing machine:
General Use & Installation:
• Do not dismantle the machine by yourself.
• Do not install the machine in a damp or rainy environment to avoid electric shock, fire, machine failure, or deformation.
• Do not place inflammable materials like burning candles, mosquito incense, cigarettes, or heating sources like electric stoves on the machine.
• Do not spray water directly onto the machine.
• Make sure that the water inlet hose is connected and the tap is opened before washing.
• Do not exceed the maximum water level to avoid water overflowing and machine failure.
• If using warm water, the water temperature should not exceed 50°C.
• Insert the plug tightly when in use and unplug it from the socket after use.
• Do not pull the cord when unplugging the plug.
Personal Safety:
• Do not let a baby sit on the machine or place heavy things on it.
• Do not let a baby climb on the machine or play near the running tub to avoid an accident.
• Do not put hands into the tub before it stops running completely.
• Do not insert or unplug the plug with wet hands to avoid electric shock.
Clothing & Substances:
• Do not wash clothes that are stained with kerosene, petrol, alcohol, and other flammable substances.
• Do not wash down-filled coats, raincoats, or similar clothes.
Electrical Safety:
• To avoid electric shock resulting from electric leakage, connect the grounding wire of the plug properly.
• Wipe off dirt and dust on the plug often to prevent poor contact with the power supply.
• Do not replace the power cord by yourself.
• Do not damage the power cord and plug to avoid electric shock, short circuits, or fire.
What are the main parts of the PREMIUM PWM8010M washing machine?
The main parts of the PREMIUM PWM8010M include:
• Control Panel
• Wash Cover
• Spin Cover
• Safety Cover
• Lint Filter
• Wash Tub
• Pulsator
• Cabinet
• Frame
• Base
• Power Plug
• Drain Hose (For upper drain only models)
• Drain Hose (For lower drain only models)
How do I troubleshoot my PREMIUM PWM8010M washing machine?
Refer to the table below for troubleshooting common issues with the PREMIUM PWM8010M.
| Symptom | Possible Reason | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Unusual sound when washing or wash weakly (motor with sound) |
a. Laundry is much more than rated washing capacity. b. Pulsator is tangled with clothes or blocked by things like coins. c. V-belt loose, broken or fallen from the strap wheel. d. Pulley broken or pulley screw is loose. e. Capacitor failure. f. Wash-drain selection switch does not work. |
a. Reduce the laundry till the pulsator can rotate normally. b. Take off the plug, remove the pulsator and take out the tangled clothes or other things. c. Replace v-belt or reload the v-belt. d. Replace the pulley or tighten the pulley locking screw. e. Replace the capacitor. f. Replace the switch. |
| 2. Cannot wash (motor does not rotate) |
a. Power supply is cut off or poor contact of plug and socket. b. Voltage is too low. c. Wash timer is in poor contact or faulted. d. Fuse is burned. e. Wash motor failure. |
a. Check the power supply and adjust the plug to ensure good contact. b. Do not use the washing machine until the voltage rises to the rated voltage. c. Check the wire harness or replace the wash timer. d. Replace the fuse. e. Replace the wash motor. |
| 3. Electric leakage |
a. Conductive wire or live parts in the machine contacts the metal cabinet. b. Bad grounding wire. c. 2 power lines of the power supply. d. Weak insulation strength of motor. e. Insulation layer of wire harness is broken. |
a. Check wire connecting in the machine. b. Check the grounding wire. c. Examine and replace the power supply. d. Replace the motor. e. Examine the wire harness and bind up the broken wire. |
| 4. Spin tub cannot rotate |
a. Spin motor winding is burned. b. Fuse is burned. c. Spin timer does not work. d. Capacitor failure. e. Cable joint is loosened. |
a. If the motor is damaged because of water leakage from the spin tub, check the reason for leakage and solve the problem. b. Replace the fuse. c. Replace the spin timer. d. Replace the capacitor. e. Join the cable with a pair of pliers. |
| 5. Start of spin is too long; spin tub bumps with outer tub when running |
a. Clothes in spin tub are placed unevenly. b. Laundry is much more than rated load. c. Drain hose is not placed properly or too much water is stored in the spin tub. d. The pull-in torque of the spin motor is low. e. The capacity of the capacitor is low. f. The brake plate is too near to the connector. |
a. Make the clothes even. b. Reduce the load. c. Place the drain hose properly and do not use it until water in the spin tub is drained completely. d. Replace the spin motor. e. Replace the capacitor. f. Adjust the position of the brake belt and belt hanging hole to keep a proper space between the brake plate and the connector. |
| 6. Unusual sound when spinning |
a. There is a lack of oil for the oil-retaining bearing of the spin tub rotating shaft. b. External things, like socks, exist between the spin tub and wash tub. c. The machine is not placed evenly or laundry is not placed evenly. d. Unusual sound from the spin motor. e. The brake plate is too near to the connector. |
a. Lubricate the oil-retaining bearing. b. Take off the spin tub and remove the extra things. c. Place the machine on flat ground and adjust the laundry. d. Replace the spin motor. e. Adjust the position of the brake belt and belt hanging hole to keep a proper space between the brake plate and the connector. |
| 7. Unusual sound when pulsator rotates |
a. There are things like coins, buttons under the pulsator. b. The fixing screw has become loose and the pulsator vibrates. c. Gear in the retarder is damaged. d. Anti-loose nuts on the big pulley have become loose, so the wheel jumps and makes unusual noise. e. The v-belt is not smooth and makes noise when running on the pulley. f. The motor pulley and the big pulley are not at the same level. g. Noise inside the wash motor. |
a. Dismantle the pulsator and take out the things. b. Tighten the fixing screw. c. Replace the retarder. d. Screw tight the anti-loose nuts. e. Replace the v-belt. f. Adjust the motor pulley to make it at the same level with the big pulley. g. Replace the wash motor. |
| 8. No drain or unsmooth drain |
a. When draining, the hose is not put down and the water cannot be drained. (for lower drain function only) b. Wash-drain selection switch is not in the “drain” position. c. Drain outlet is not laid properly. (for upper drain function only) d. Drain pump failure (for upper drain function only). e. Drain outlet is blocked at the side of the wash tub. f. Drain belt falls from the switch. g. Drain belt is loosened or broken. |
a. Put down the drain hose and direct the hose mouth to the sewer. b. Turn the switch to the “drain” position. c. The drain hose should be placed 86 cm-100cm from the bottom of the ground. d. Replace the pump or open the valve cover to clear up the pump. e. Dismantle the pulsator and take out the blocks at the drain outlet. f. Connect the drain belt with the switch. g. Replace the drain belt. |
| 9. Poor brake of spin tub |
a. Safety switch contact does not open when you open the spin cover. b. The tightwire kit has become loose. c. Brake plate is badly worn. d. Brake belt is too tight. |
a. Adjust the safety switch contact. b. Reload the brake belt or brake steel wire. c. Replace the brake plate. d. Adjust the position of the drain belt and brake belt hanging hole to keep a proper space between the brake plate and coupler. |
| 10. Water leakage from the side of the washing tub |
a. Wash tub leaks. b. Seal ring of the retarder leaks. c. The overflow hose is broken and water leaks from the broken place. d. Drain valve core is broken and water leaks from the valve cover. e. Drain hose joint is badly bound and water leaks from the joint place. |
a. Replace the wash tub. b. Replace the seal ring of the retarder. c. Replace the overflow hose. d. Replace the drain valve core. e. Dismantle the drain hose joint and stick them again. |
| 11. Water leakage from the side of the spin tub |
a. The rubber damper is not properly fixed and water leaks from the brim of the rubber damper. b. Spin seal is broken and water leaks from the broken place. c. The diameter of the spin shaft has become smaller because of abrasion. |
a. Replace the rubber damper. b. Replace the spin seal. c. Replace the spin tub. |
How can I systematically troubleshoot why my PREMIUM PWM8010M will not wash?
If your PREMIUM PWM8010M will not wash (the motor does not rotate), follow these diagnostic steps:
1. Check if the power supply is working. If not, check the power supply source.
2. If the power supply is okay, check if the plug has good contact in the socket. If not, adjust the plug to ensure good contact.
3. If the plug contact is good, check if the voltage is correct. If not, wait for the voltage to rise to the correct level before using the machine.
4. If the voltage is correct, check if the wash timer is working well. If not, replace the wash timer.
5. If the wash timer is okay, check if the fuse is well. If not, replace the fuse.
6. If the fuse is okay, check if the capacitor is well. If not, replace the capacitor.
7. If the capacitor is okay, the wash motor is likely faulty. If so, replace the wash motor.
What are the diagnostic steps if the spin tub on my PREMIUM PWM8010M will not rotate?
If the spin tub on your PREMIUM PWM8010M does not rotate, follow these steps to diagnose the issue:
1. Check if the spin motor is working. If not, replace the spin motor.
2. If the motor is okay, check the safety switch. If it is not working correctly, replace the safety switch.
3. If the safety switch is okay, check the fuse. If it is blown, replace the fuse.
4. If the fuse is okay, check the spin timer. If it is faulty, replace the spin timer.
5. If the spin timer is okay, check the capacitor. If it is faulty, replace the capacitor.
6. If the capacitor is okay, check the cable joint. If it is loose, join the cable with a pair of pliers.
How do I troubleshoot a draining problem with my PREMIUM PWM8010M?
If your PREMIUM PWM8010M is not draining or draining poorly, follow these steps:
1. For lower drain models: Check if the drain hose is put down. If not, put down the drain hose.
2. For upper drain models: Check if the drain hose is laid properly (it should be placed 86cm-100cm from the bottom of the ground). If not, adjust it.
3. Check if the drain hose at the side of the wash tub is blocked. If it is, dismantle the pulsator and take out the blocks in the water drain hose.
4. Check if the wash-drain selection switch is set to the “drain” position. If not, turn the switch to the “drain” position.
5. Check if the drain belt is working well. If not, replace the drain belt.
6. Check if the drain belt is properly on the switch. If not, hang the drain belt onto the switch.
7. For upper drain models: Check if the drain pump is working well. If not, replace the drain pump.
How do I perform dismantling procedures on my PREMIUM PWM8010M?
The following are instructions for dismantling the main parts of your PREMIUM PWM8010M. Ensure the machine is unplugged before starting any procedure.
1. Remove the knobs:
• Take out the knobs directly as they are inserted into the control panel. If it is difficult, a straight screwdriver wrapped with cloth can be used for help.
2. Remove the control panel:
a. Take down the back cover by loosening off the screws.
b. Take down the bag by cutting off the nylon clip. Use a plier to take down all wire nuts and make all wire clamps loose. Unfasten the drain belt connector.
c. Unfasten the screws on the control panel.
d. The control panel can now be lifted and removed.
3. Remove the spin cover:
a. Open the spin tub cover and loosen the connector of the brake belt.
b. Keep the spin tub cover open and remove the hinge spring.
c. The spin cover can be drawn out by swinging.
4. Remove the pulsator:
a. Unscrew the pulsator screw.
b. Draw out the pulsator with your hands.
5. Remove the lint filter:
• Press the lint filter subassembly then pull it out.
6. Remove the frame:
a. Screw off the fixing screws of the frame.
b. Screw off the screws under the handles at both sides of the frame.
c. Screw off the stainless steel screw on the top surface of the frame.
d. The frame can then be removed.
7. Remove the spin tub:
a. Unscrew the fixing screw under the tub with a socket wrench.
b. The spin tub can be removed then.
8. Remove the base:
a. Press the V-belt at the part near the pulley. Then take down the V-belt by rotating the pulley.
b. Spread a blanket on the floor and lay down the washing machine. Pull out the drain hose from the clamp and draw out the drain hose subassembly. After the screws on the base are unscrewed, the base assembly can be disassembled.
9. Remove the motor pulley:
• Loosen the nut with a special wrench, then loosen the screw.
10. Remove the capacitor:
• Hold the capacitor firm and then pull it out.
11. Remove the brake wheel:
• Loosen the fixing screw then draw the brake wheel out.
How can I self-test the electronic components of my PREMIUM PWM8010M?
You can test various electronic components using a multimeter or megohmmeter.
Wash Timer:
Turn the wash timer to a work condition. Use a multimeter to measure the connection between the input terminal (brown wire) and output terminal (yellow or orange wire). The wash timer should show a regular on-off reading.
Spin Timer:
Use a multimeter to test the two conducting wires. If the spin timer is in working condition, the two wires should be conductive.
Wash-Drain Selection Switch:
Use a multimeter to measure the selection switch. The switch should show a regular on-off reading.
Safety Switch:
The safety switch should be in a closure state (conductive) when the spin tub cover is closed.
Capacitor:
Use an analog multimeter. Connect the two ends of the capacitor with the multimeter rod connector. If the pointer swings towards the direction of smaller resistance and then turns back to the direction of “0” slowly, the capacitor is okay. If not, it is faulted.
Motor:
a. Insulation Check: Use a 500V megohmmeter to measure the insulation resistance of the motor. It should be higher than 30MΩ. At the same time, check if the other resistances of the motor are normal. If there are any abnormalities (short-circuit, open circuit), the motor cannot be used.
b. Resistance Check: Use a multimeter to measure the resistance of the three leads, naming them R1, R2, and R3. The motor resistance is normal only if “R1+R2=R3”.
c. Operation Check: Use a power cable with a fuse to connect the motor and capacitor correctly. For a used motor, add some 20# machine oil on the upper and lower bearing. After powering on, there should be no obvious noise, vibration, or odor from the motor.
Can you describe the circuit diagram for the PREMIUM PWM8010M?
The circuit for the PREMIUM PWM8010M is as follows:
The main power (Brown wire) goes through a Fuse. After the fuse, it splits.
Spin Circuit:
• The Brown wire goes to the Safety Switch.
• From the Safety Switch, a Red wire goes to the Spin Timer.
• The Spin Timer connects via a Purple wire to the Spin Motor (M2) and Capacitor (C2).
• The other side of the Spin Motor is connected to a Yellow/Green wire and then to a Light Blue neutral wire.
Wash Circuit:
• The main Brown wire also goes to the Wash-Drain Selection Switch.
• The Switch has Green and Light Blue/Purple outputs that go to the Wash Timer.
• The Wash Timer has Yellow and Orange outputs that connect to the Wash Motor (M1) and Capacitor (C1).
• The other side of the Wash Motor is connected to a Light Blue neutral wire.
A common Light Blue wire acts as a neutral for both the Spin Motor and Wash Motor.
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