PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 (01) PDF Document

To determine the size of your pool in gallons for the PENTAIR ICHLOR 30, use the following formulas based on your pool’s shape:

Rectangular Pools: Length x width x average depth x 7.5

Circular Pools: Diameter x diameter x average depth x 5.9

Oval Pools: Length x width x average depth x 6.7

Sloping Sides: Multiply total gallons by 0.85 = gallon capacity

The Salt Level LEDs on your PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 display the pool water salinity levels as follows:

Green LED: Good salt. The pool water salt level is between 3000 ppm and 4500 ppm.

Green LED (Flashing): High salt. The salt level is above 4500 ppm. This increases the risk of corrosion and deterioration of pool equipment.

Red LED: Low salt. The salt level is between 2600 ppm and 3000 ppm. The PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 will produce chlorine at reduced efficiency. It is highly recommended to add salt.

Red LED (Flashing): Very low salt. The salt level is between 2000 ppm and 2600 ppm. The PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 will produce chlorine at a “reduced” output rate. It is highly recommended to add salt.

Red LED (Flashing): Not enough salt. The salt level has fallen below 2000 ppm. The PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 will not produce chlorine until salt is added and is OFF.

Note: After every salt addition, the pump should be allowed to run for at least 24 hours for proper dilution. Salinity readings should only be taken after the dilution period.

The Status LEDs on your PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 indicate the operational status of the cell and water flow:

CELL LED:

Green: The PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 is operating normally and producing chlorine.

No Light: The PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 is off and not producing chlorine. It may be in an off-period of the sanitizing cycle and will return on shortly.

Red: The unit is in “Standby” mode due to cold water (below 52° F or 11° C). The display will read “COLD”. Normal operation will resume when the water temperature rises.

Short Red Flash: A malfunction has been detected on the temperature sensor. The unit will continue normal operation, but salinity indication might not be accurate until the flow switch is replaced.

Green (Flashing): The PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 needs to be inspected for issues like calcium buildup. The unit is not producing chlorine, and the display will read “CELL”.

FLOW LED:

Red: Insufficient water flow through the unit; no chlorine is being produced.

Green: Sufficient water flow to produce chlorine.

Short Flickering: The PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 is in communication with an IntelliFlo pump and is monitoring its status. This will be present as long as there is communication with the pump.

To adjust the output percentage on your PENTAIR ICHLOR 30:

1. Press either the LESS or MORE button.

2. The output will begin to flash on the digital display, indicating the unit is ready for changes.

3. While the output is flashing, press the LESS or MORE button to change the output in 1% increments. You can also press and hold the buttons to change output in larger increments (5% jumps).

4. Once the desired setting is programmed, stop pressing the buttons. The digital display will stop flashing after a few seconds, and the PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 will return to normal operation.

To turn Boost Mode on or off on your PENTAIR ICHLOR 30, press both the MORE and LESS buttons together. Boost Mode sets the unit to run at 100% output for the next 24 hours of pool pump run time. If the pump cycle is interrupted, Boost Mode will continue when the pump turns back on until 24 hours have elapsed since it was activated. In boost mode, the display will alternate between “100%” output and a 24-hour countdown timer.

The self-cleaning feature is factory set to three (3) hours. To adjust the cycle duration on your PENTAIR ICHLOR 30:

1. While the PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 is ON, press and hold the LESS Button until “3 Hrs” is displayed.

2. Using the MORE or LESS Buttons, the cycle duration can be set to 3, 4, or 5 hours.

For proper operation of your PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 and to protect pool equipment, maintain the following water chemistry conditions:

For your PENTAIR ICHLOR 30, use salt that is at least 99.8% pure NaCl (sodium chloride). The preferred and recommended salt is an evaporated, granulated, food quality, non-iodized salt with no additives.

Avoid using salt with anti-caking agents like sodium ferrocyanide (YPS or yellow prussiate of soda), as these can cause discoloration.

Do not use calcium chloride or potassium chloride.

Do not use Rock salt, as its insoluble impurities can shorten the life of the PENTAIR ICHLOR 30.

Follow these steps to add salt to your pool for the PENTAIR ICHLOR 30:

1. Check the existing salt level in the water before adding any salt.

2. Determine the required amount of salt using the tables in the user’s guide.

3. Slowly pour the salt around the outer perimeter of the pool for quick and even distribution. Do not add salt through the skimmer or surge tank to avoid clogging or damage.

4. Brush the pool bottom and allow the water to circulate for 24 hours to dissolve the salt completely.

5. After 24 hours, verify the salt level using the LED indicators on the PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 and a reliable test method.

6. Power on the PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 and set the Sanitizer Output level to maintain the proper free chlorine levels (2.0 – 4.0 ppm).

The Saturation Index (SI) helps determine if your pool water is corrosive or scaling. A well-balanced pool will have an SI between -0.3 and +0.3. The formula is:

SI = pH + CHF + AF + TF + TDSF

Where:

pH = pH as tested

CHF = Calcium Hardness Factor

AF = Alkalinity Factor

TF = Temperature Factor

TDSF = TDS Factor

Correction for Cyanuric Acid: Total Alkalinity – 1/3 Cyanuric Acid = Corrected Alkalinity.

Use the following tables for the factors:

TDS Factor (TDSF)

Langelier Saturation Index Factors

To install the PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 cell:

1. Using the cut-out template provided, measure and cut the required section of plumbing.

2. Using PVC glue, mount the PVC couplings to the plumbing pipe and allow the glue to dry.

3. Mount the cell, vertically if possible, onto the couplings. Ensure the O-rings are seated properly and that the cell is installed with the correct water flow direction, as indicated by the marking on the side of the cell.

4. Start the pump and visually inspect for leaks around the couplings.

Note: Install the PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 cell no closer than three (3) feet from the heater outlet. For best flow sensing, provide at least 12″-18″ of straight pipe in front of the cell inlet.

Super Chlorination is recommended before the initial pool start-up. It is best to super chlorinate using an outside source at the time of pool start-up, then wait until the chlorine level has returned to 2.0 to 4.0 ppm before switching on the PENTAIR ICHLOR 30.

Follow these steps for sanitizer output settings and adjustments:

1. Switch on the pool pump. The salt display will blink for two (2) minutes while it checks the salt level. Afterwards, one of the salt level LEDs will be displayed.

2. Set the Sanitizer Output to 60% by pressing the MORE or LESS button.

3. After 24 hours, test the pool water for free available chlorine. The ideal range is 2.0-4.0 ppm. If the level is too low, increase the output by pressing the MORE button. If the level is too high, decrease the output by pressing the LESS button.

4. Continue adjusting as necessary, allowing 24 hours between adjustments, until the free chlorine level is stabilized at 2.0 – 4.0 ppm.

Perform the following service weekly for your PENTAIR ICHLOR 30:

1. pH Level Test: Test the pH level of your pool water. The ideal range is 7.4 to 7.6, though 7.2 to 7.8 is acceptable. Adjust as needed.

2. Total Alkalinity Test: Test the total alkalinity. The ideal range is 80 to 120 ppm. Adjust as needed.

3. Chlorine Test: Test for the free chlorine level. Maintain an ideal range of 2.0-4.0 ppm by adjusting the Sanitizer Output settings on your PENTAIR ICHLOR 30. Note that levels above 4.0 ppm can cause corrosion.

Perform the following service monthly for your PENTAIR ICHLOR 30:

1. Salt Level Test: Check the salt display lights on the unit to ensure the green “GOOD” light is on and not flashing. If the red LOW light is on, add salt. You can also access salinity information through the Diagnostic Mode.

2. Pool Water Sample: Take a sample of your pool water to your local pool store for testing.

3. Cyanuric Acid: Test for cyanuric acid level. The recommended ideal level is 30-50 ppm.

4. Calcium Hardness: Test the calcium hardness level. The ideal range is 200 to 400 ppm for pools.

5. Metals Test: It is recommended to test for metals such as copper, iron, and manganese, as these can damage the PENTAIR ICHLOR 30.

6. TDS (Total Dissolved Solids): Test the TDS level. The recommended standard is 3000 minimum to 6000 maximum ppm (which includes salt).

The PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 has an automatic cleaning feature. However, if you observe excessive scale formation, you must perform an acid wash cleaning. It is recommended to inspect the cell every two (2) months for scale formation or debris.

Acid Wash Cleaning:

1. Before acid washing, use a garden hose on a jet setting to spray directly into both ends of the cell to remove loose calcium buildup.

2. To acid clean the blades, turn off power to the Power Center and disconnect the PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 cell.

3. Create a solution of 1 part muriatic acid to 4 parts water in a plastic bucket. Always add acid to water, never water to acid. Wear rubber gloves and eye protection and work in a well-ventilated area.

4. Use the acid wash stand (sold separately) or a similar method to stand the PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 cell vertically in a bucket. Pour the acid solution into the cell until the blades are covered.

5. A foaming action will begin as the scale dissolves. If no foaming occurs, the blades are clean. Otherwise, allow the blades to remain in the solution until foaming stops, but for no more than thirty (30) minutes.

6. Remove the cell from the bucket and rinse it thoroughly, inside and out, with clean tap water. Inspect. If deposits are still visible, repeat the acid cleaning process.

7. Once clean, rinse the cell again, reinstall it, and resume normal operation.

The PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 will not produce chlorine below 52° F (11° C). To prevent freeze damage to the cell, you can either run the pool pump continuously or winterize the pool by draining water from the pump, filter, and all intake and return lines. After draining, remove the PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 cell, clean it, and store it for the winter.

To enter “Diagnostic Mode” on your PENTAIR ICHLOR 30, press and hold the MORE button for 3 seconds, until the lights indicate you are in diagnostic mode. Be sure you are not in the Output Percentage adjustment mode (output flashing) when you do this.

While in diagnostic mode, you can advance to the next screen by pressing the MORE button. You cannot go back to a previous screen.

There are five screens in diagnostic mode:

First screen: Total Cell Hours (life). Displays total cell hours. Pressing the LESS button displays the WAND report.

Second screen: Temperature (°F or °C). Displays water temperature. Pressing the LESS button switches between °F and °C.

Third screen: Salinity (ppm). Displays the last recorded salinity level. Pressing the LESS button takes real-time salinity readings.

Fourth screen: Cell Voltage (V). Displays the last recorded cell voltage. Pressing the LESS button takes real-time cell voltage readings.

Fifth screen: Firmware Revision (r). Displays the current firmware revision. Pressing both LESS and MORE buttons on this screen will flip the user interface orientation by 180°.

If your PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 is producing low or no chlorine, check the following possible causes and take corrective action:

Low stabilizer (cyanuric acid) level (outdoor pools only): Add cyanuric acid to maintain 30-50 PPM.

Insufficient operating hours (pump time): Increase the operating time per day.

iChlor OUTPUT percentage set too low or at 0%: Increase the output by pressing the MORE button.

Recent increases in weather temperature: Increase the sanitizer output by pressing the MORE button.

Temporary loss of chlorine due to heavy organic load (rain, leaves, etc.): Set “Boost” mode and allow it to run for 24 hours. Recheck and if still low, super-chlorinate using an outside source.

Low salinity level (less than 2600 ppm): Add salt to the pool to achieve 3600 ppm.

Very low salinity level (less than 2000 ppm), which shuts off production: Add salt to the pool to achieve 3600 ppm.

High nitrate and phosphate level: Contact a Pool Professional. Maximum nitrate level is 10 ppm, and maximum phosphate level is 125 ppb.

Metals (copper, iron, etc.) present in pool water: Contact a Pool Professional.

New pool water, not shocked properly: Super Chlorinate the pool.

Clogged or dirty cell: Remove the cell for inspection and clean if necessary.

A solid RED SALT LED on your PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 indicates a low salinity level, between 2600 and 2999 ppm. Chlorine is being produced, but the pool water needs salt. Add salt to achieve the ideal level of 3600 ppm.

A flashing RED SALT LED on your PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 indicates a very low or insufficient salinity level.

Very low salinity level: Salinity is between 2000 and 2599 ppm. Chlorine is being produced at a reduced rate. Add salt to achieve 3600 ppm.

Not enough salinity level: Salinity is below 2000 ppm. No chlorine is being produced. Add salt to achieve 3600 ppm.

A flashing GREEN SALT LED on your PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 indicates a high salinity level, above 4500 ppm. The unit will continue normal operation, but high salinity may cause damage to other pool equipment and surfaces. If needed, dilute the pool water by draining some water and refilling with fresh water. Adjust the salinity level to 3600 ppm.

If the CELL LED on your PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 does not come on, check these possible causes:

Chlorine Production set to 0%: Adjust the iChlor Output to the desired percentage.

Insufficient water flow (cell plugged with debris, pump lost prime): Remove obstruction and/or clean the cell. Prime the pump if necessary.

Salt level below 2000 ppm: Add salt to achieve 3600 ppm.

Off-period of sanitizing cycle: The cell should turn on within five minutes.

Chlorine Production set to 8% or lower: At these low settings, the cell will only turn on once an hour.

This indicates the PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 is in standby mode because the water temperature is below 52°F. This is a cold water cut-off feature. No chlorine is being produced. The water temperature must be above 52°F to produce chlorine.

This “INSPECT CELL” condition can be caused by a few issues:

Low salt level combined with low water temperature: Add salt if necessary to maintain a minimum of 3600 ppm. Increase water temperature above 60°F if possible.

Calcium build-up: The cell requires cleaning. Refer to the maintenance procedure for acid washing.

Water chemistry imbalance (high nitrates/phosphates): Contact a Pool Professional to balance the water properly and remove metals if present.

A RED FLOW LED on your PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 indicates insufficient water flow. Check the following:

Pump issues: Check for correct pump operation (e.g., loss of prime, clogged strainer baskets).

Closed valves: Check and correct all valve alignments.

Dirty filter: Follow filter cleaning procedures.

Obstruction in the cell: Remove the cell for inspection and clean as needed.

Flow Switch failure: If there is sufficient flow but the light is still red, the flow switch may need to be replaced.

This indicates your PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 has detected a “low current” condition and is in a “safety lock”. To resolve this:

1. Inspect the Flow Switch functionality by turning the pump off while the PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 is powered on. Confirm the flow switch LED turns RED (no flow). If it stays GREEN with no water flow, replace the flow switch immediately.

2. Inspect the cell for any calcium build-up and clean if necessary.

3. After inspecting, restart the PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 (power off-on) and confirm everything is working properly.

This indicates your PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 has detected a “bad flow switch” condition and is in a “safety lock”. To clear this condition:

1. First, inspect the Flow Switch functionality. Turn the pump off while the unit is powered and confirm the flow switch LED turns RED (no flow). If it stays GREEN, the flow switch is faulty and must be replaced immediately.

2. To manually clear this condition, the unit requires a “user acknowledgement” passcode. The passcode is 1-2-3, which can be entered by pressing the “LESS” and “MORE” buttons in the following sequence: LESS – MORE – MORE – LESS – LESS – LESS.

This indicates that the PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 has detected a “loss of communication” with an IntelliFlo or IntelliCenter and has placed the unit in a “safety lock”. If communication is restored, the unit will resume operation. To manually clear this condition, you must enter the “user acknowledgement” passcode 1-2-3 by pressing the “LESS” and “MORE” buttons in the following sequence: LESS – MORE – MORE – LESS – LESS – LESS.

If your PENTAIR ICHLOR 30 unit does not have power, check the following:

Blown Fuse: Check if the fuse in the Power Center is blown. Replace the fuse if necessary. Fuse information can be found on the wiring label inside the Power Center cover.

No incoming power: Verify the time clock is providing 110 VAC or 220 VAC to the Power Center when active.

Incorrect wiring: Verify that the transformer leads are wired properly by referring to the wiring diagram decal on the inside of the Power Center cover.