PENTAIR MYERS CGL-01DW (01) PDF Document

Locate the control box in a convenient location, preferably close to the pump installation. The box may be secured to a wall or other stable vertical support by use of the four mounting holes located in the mounting feet on the top and bottom of the box.

The box should be mounted approximately 5 feet from the floor to the circuit breaker handle. Care should be taken to avoid mounting the control box under sweating pipes, faucets, or other damp locations.

Yes, the control box may be mounted at the location of the pump and basin or may be mounted in a remote location. The box should be secured to a stable vertical support which in turn should be secured to a concrete basin or footer.

The box could also be mounted to the side of the house or other stationary support if available within a reasonable distance. When selecting a location, you should consider the visibility of the alarm light. The box should be mounted approximately 5 feet from the ground to the circuit breaker handle.

Run power supply lines to the control box and secure them (knockouts are not supplied in this box). Select a convenient location on the bottom to enter the box with the power supply. Cut a hole with a chassis punch, taking caution not to get fiberglass chips in the components while cutting the hole. After the hole is cut, any fiberglass particles must be removed from the box.

Connect incoming power to the circuit breaker top lugs and all necessary ground wires to the ground lug at the bottom of the box. The ground lug should be fastened to a good driven earth ground by one of the methods described in the National Electric Code.

NOTE: On single-phase panels, the neutral terminal block (labeled “N” and located next to the circuit breaker) must be connected to the incoming power neutral line. If the incoming power does not have a neutral line, then the neutral terminal block should be jumpered to the ground lug.

Pump Cord: Run the wires from both pumps to the bottom of the control box. A hole must be cut into the control box. Connect red, white, and black wires to terminals marked M1, M2, and M3 (for 3-phase applications), or connect the red, white, and black wires to terminals marked R, W, and B (for 1-phase applications). Fasten the green wire to the ground lug. WGL pumps may have an additional brown wire in the pump cord for the seal leak probe; connect it to the terminal strip as per the wiring diagram.

Float Cords: Strip the float cord wires 3/8″, twist strands together, and connect black and white wires to the terminal strip in the control box. Refer to the wiring diagram for proper terminal connections.

1. Make sure that all wires are inside the control box and not in a position to be pinched or shorted when the door is closed.

2. Turn on power to the control box.

3. Turn hand-off-auto switches to the “HAND” position. The pumps should start and the pump run lights should come on. (On duplex panels, this should be done for both pumps).

4. To put into service, put the hand-off-auto switch in the “AUTO” position. (On duplex panels, this should be done for both pumps).

Rotation of three-phase pumps must be established by one of the two methods described below. Caution: Keep hands and feet clear of impeller when checking rotation.

Method 1: Before positioning the pump in the basin, run wires to the control box. Lay the pump unit on its side and secure so that the starting torque of the motor will not cause the pump to roll. Energize the pump by turning the circuit breaker on and the hand-off-auto to “HAND”. The rotation should be counterclockwise as observed facing the bottom of the pump. If you do not get the proper rotation, disconnect the power to the control box and change the position of any two of the black motor leads in the terminal blocks.

Method 2: Install the pump in the basin and run in some water so the pump can operate. Energize the pump by turning the circuit breaker on and the hand-of-auto switch to “HAND”. Let the pump pull the water down in the basin, and when the water reaches the bottom of the pump the rotation of the water can be observed. The water should rotate in a clockwise direction if the pump rotation is correct. If you do not get the proper rotation, disconnect the power to the control box and change the position of any two of the black motor leads in the terminal blocks.

1. Use an amprobe to check the amperage of the pump.

2. Turn the hand-off-auto switch to the “HAND” position and compare the amperage reading to the values shown on the chart.

3. If you get a reading of 0, make sure there is voltage to the motor leads. Push the Klixon overload reset button in the control panel; the on winding overload may be tripped. Wait 15 minutes and try again. If you still do not get a reading, either the motor has failed or there might be a wiring problem between the control panel and pump.

1. Use an amprobe to check the amperage of any of the power leads going to the pump.

2. Turn the hand-off-auto switch to the “HAND” position and compare the amperage reading to the values shown on the chart.

3. If you get a reading of 0, make sure there is voltage to the motor leads. Push the overload reset button on the overload relay in the control panel. If you still do not get a reading either the motor has failed or there might be a wiring problem between the control panel and pump.

4. If you get high amperage readings on 2 wires and a zero reading on the third, you have a single-phase condition which could be caused by one of the following: A. One motor lead is not connected properly. B. You have lost 1 phase of the 3 phase power coming into the panel. C. One winding in the motor is open.

To check pump or float resistance, disconnect incoming power and remove wires from the terminal block. Use an ohmmeter to check the measurements per the chart below.

Contactor:

1. Physically examine the contactor for badly burnt or sticking contacts. The contactor arm should move in and out freely.

2. Remove the wires on the coil to the contactor and measure the resistance. Zero the ohmmeter, and on the R x 1 scale you should read approximately 138 ohms.

3. Often a burnt coil can be spotted by merely looking to see if it is badly discolored or has a dark spot on it.

Transformer (3 Phase Panels Only):

208 VOLT:

1. Remove wires from primary side (H3-H4) and secondary side (X2-XF-X1).

2. R x 1 scale on H3 and H4 (primary): approx 15.6 ohms (Simplex) / 5.8 ohms (Duplex).

3. R x 1 scale on X2 and X1 (secondary): approx 3.6 ohms (Simplex) / 1.6 ohms (Duplex).

4. R x 1 scale on XF and X1: should read 0. If not, replace fuse.

230 VOLT:

1. Remove wires from primary side (H2-H4) and secondary side (X2-XF-X1).

2. R x 1 scale on H2 and H4 (primary): approx 14 ohms (Simplex) / 6.5 ohms (Duplex).

3. R x 1 scale on X2 and X1 (secondary): approx 3.6 ohms (Simplex) / 1.6 ohms (Duplex).

4. R x 1 scale on XF and X1: should read 0. If not, replace fuse.

460 VOLT:

1. Remove wires from primary side (H1-H4) and secondary side (X2-XF-X1).

2. R x 1 scale on H1 and H4 (primary): approx 49.7 ohms (Simplex) / 21.5 ohms (Duplex).

3. R x 1 scale on X2 and X1 (secondary): approx 3.6 ohms (Simplex) / 1.6 ohms (Duplex).

4. R x 1 scale on XF and X1: should read 0. If not, replace fuse.

NOTE: A good sign of a failed capacitor is a bulged or swollen enclosure, leaking oil, or a burnt smell.

1. With power shut off, short the terminals of the capacitors together with a screwdriver or jumper cables. This will discharge any voltage stored in the capacitor.

2. Remove the wires from the ends of the capacitor.

3. Set the ohmmeter on R x 10,000 (10K) and adjust needle to zero, after clipping the ohmmeter leads together.

4. Clip one lead to one side of the capacitor terminal and touch the other lead to the other capacitor terminal. If the capacitor is good, the needle will go towards zero and then drift slowly towards infinity. If the ohmmeter does not read as described, the capacitor is bad and must be replaced.

5. If the capacity is checked a second time, be sure to reverse the ohmmeter leads to get a correct reading.

Use the following chart to troubleshoot Simplex Panels:

Check Codes & Remedies:

A. Motor overload tripped. Reset overload. Check power supply and winding resistance. Make sure pump shaft is not locked.

B. Tripped circuit breaker or fuse at power supply. Reset breakers or replace fuses. If they continue to blow, check amp capacity and wiring.

C. Tripped circuit breaker in control panel. Reset by pushing handle down to “OFF” then “ON”. Check for shorts.

D. Control circuit fuse blown. Check fuse instructions. Replace with same type/rating.

E. Level in basin may not be high enough. Run pump manually to check operation.

F. May not be wired properly. Check wiring diagram and terminal block connections.

G. Too much water coming into basin. Reduce water flow; pump may need servicing.

H. Float switch may have failed. Operate manually to see if basin pumps down/alarm goes off. Repair float.

I. Pump or discharge line plugged. Pull pump and check. CAUTION: Turn off power before touching grinder impeller.

J. Short circuit in wiring or pump. Check wiring and motor cables.

K. Failed component operating coil. Check components.

L. Wrong operating voltage or voltage components. Check voltage.

Use the following chart to troubleshoot Duplex Panels:

Remedy Codes (Specific to Duplex differences):

D. Override relay not working properly. Try operating both pumps in “HAND”. If run lights come on and pumps operate, replace override relay.

M. May not be lead pump in alternating phase. Let float switches cycle basin to see if alternator is alternating pumps. Check alternator relay.

N. May be short in circuit in wiring or pump power supply. Check wiring and motor.

WARNING: On 3 phase panels, overload heater elements are not factory installed in the overload relay. Elements must be purchased separately and correspond with the above chart. This must be done before the panel is put into service.