JOHN LEWIS JL110SE (01) PDF Document

When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed. This sewing machine is designed and manufactured for household use only. Read all instructions before using this sewing machine.

DANGER – To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1. An appliance should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.

2. Always unplug before replacing a sewing machine bulb. Replace bulb with same type rated 15 Watts.

WARNING – To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:

1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this sewing machine is used by or near children.

2. Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in this owner’s manual. Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this owner’s manual.

3. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return this sewing machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

4. Never operate the appliance with any air opening blocked. Keep ventilation openings of this sewing machine and foot controller free from accumulation of lint, dust and loose cloth.

5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.

6. Do not use outdoors.

7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

8. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off (“O”) position, then remove plug from outlet.

9. Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.

10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle and/or cutting blade.

11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.

12. Do not use bent needles.

13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.

14. Switch this sewing machine off (“O”) when making any adjustment in the needle area, such as threading the needle, changing the needle, threading the bobbin or changing the presser foot, and the like.

15. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other adjustments mentioned in this owner’s manual.

The main parts of the JOHN LEWIS JL110SE sewing machine are:

1. Reverse stitch button

2. Pattern selector dial

3. Stitch length dial

4. Bobbin winder stopper

5. Bobbin winder spindle

6. Spool pins

7. Bobbin winder thread guide

8. Thread guide

9. Thread take-up lever

10. Thread tension dial

11. Face plate

12. Needle plate

13. Extension table

14. Presser foot holder

15. Needle clamp screw

16. Needle

17. Presser foot

18. Carrying handle

19. Balance wheel

20. Power switch

21. Machine socket

22. Free arm

23. Presser foot lifter

The extension table provides added sewing surface and can be easily removed for free arm sewing.

Detaching the table:

Pull the table away from the machine.

Attaching the table:

Push the extension table until it snaps into the machine.

Advantages and uses of free arm sewing:

– Avoid fabric bunching around the needle when bartacking to reinforce pockets, plackets and waistlines.

– For stitching sleeves, waistbands, pant legs or any circular garment area.

– For darning socks or mending knees, elbows or areas of wear in children’s clothes.

The standard accessories for the JOHN LEWIS JL110SE are:

1. Bobbins

2. Seam ripper/ Buttonhole opener

3. Needle set

4. Buttonhole foot

5. Darning plate

6. Zigzag foot

The sewing accessories are conveniently located in the extension table, inside the accessories storage box.

Before connecting the power cord, make sure the voltage and frequency shown on the machine conform to your electrical power.

1. Turn off the power switch.

2. Insert the machine plug into the machine socket.

3. Insert the power supply plug into the outlet.

4. Turn on the power switch to turn on the power and sewing light.

Sewing speed can be varied by the foot control. The harder you press on the control, the faster the machine runs.

Caution: Do not place anything on the foot control, otherwise the machine will start advertently.

WARNING: While in operation, always keep your eyes on the sewing area, and do not touch any moving parts such as the thread take-up lever, handwheel or needle. Always turn off the power switch and unplug from the power supply:

– when leaving the machine unattended.

– when attaching or removing parts.

– when cleaning the machine.

Do not place anything on the foot control, otherwise the machine will run intermittently.

The presser foot lifter raises and lowers your presser foot.

You can raise it about 0.6 cm (1/4″) higher than the normal up position for easy removal of the presser foot or to help you to place heavy fabric under the foot.

The lifter has a normal up position and a highest position.

CAUTION: Turn off the power switch when changing a presser foot.

To remove:

1. Turn the handwheel toward you to raise the needle to its highest position.

2. Raise the presser foot.

3. Press the lever on the back of the foot holder. The presser foot will drop off.

To attach:

1. Place the presser foot so the pin on the foot lies just under the groove of the foot holder.

2. Lower the foot holder to lock the foot in place.

CAUTION: Turn off the power switch when changing a needle.

1. Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you and lower the presser foot.

2. Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it counter-clockwise.

3. Remove the needle from the clamp.

4. Insert the new needle into the clamp with the flat side away from you.

5. When inserting the needle into the clamp, push it up as far as it will go and tighten the clamp screw firmly with the screwdriver.

Check your needles frequently for barbed or blunted points. Snags and runs in knits, fine silks and silk-like fabrics are permanent and are almost always caused by a damaged needle.

Place the flat side of the needle on something flat (needle plate, glass etc.). The clearance between the needle and flat surface should be consistent. Never use a bent or blunt needle.

Use the following chart to select the correct thread and needle size for your fabric:

The spool pins are used for holding the spool of thread in order to feed thread to the machine.

To use, pull up the spool pin. Push down for storage.

1. Open the hook cover.

2. Raise the needle by turning the handwheel toward you.

3. Take out the bobbin case by holding the latch.

4. When inserting the bobbin case, place the horn into the recess of the hook race.

1. Pull the handwheel out.

2. Draw the thread from spool. Guide the thread around the bobbin winder thread guide.

3. Insert the thread through the hole in the bobbin from the inside to the outside. Align the notch of the bobbin to the bobbin winder spindle rib. Put the bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle.

4. Push it to the right.

5. With the free end of the thread held in your hand, depress the foot control. Stop the machine when it has made a few turns, and cut the thread close to the hole in the bobbin.

6. Depress the foot control again. When the bobbin is fully wound, stop the machine. Return the bobbin winder spindle to its original position by moving the spindle to the left, and cut the thread.

7. Push the handwheel to the left (original position).

Note: Return the bobbin winder spindle when the machine stops.

1. Place the bobbin into the bobbin case. Make sure the thread unwinds in the direction of the arrow.

2. Pull the thread into the bobbin case slot.

3. Draw the thread under the tension spring and into the delivery eye.

Leave about 10 cm (4″) of free thread.

1. Raise the take-up lever to its highest position by turning the handwheel toward you. Raise the presser foot. Place a spool on the spool pin as shown, with thread coming from back of the spool.

2. Draw the thread into thread guide using both hands.

3. While holding the thread near spool, draw thread down into the tension area and then around the check spring holder.

4. Firmly draw the thread up and through the take-up lever from right to left.

5. Then draw the thread down and slip it into the lower thread guide.

6. Draw the thread down and slip it into needle bar thread guide on the left.

7. Thread the needle eye from front to back.

Note: You may want to cut the end of thread with sharp scissors for easier needle threading.

1. Raise the presser foot and hold the needle thread lightly with your left hand.

2. Turn the handwheel slowly toward you with your right hand until the needle goes down and continue turning the handwheel until the take-up lever is at its highest position. Lightly draw up the needle thread forming a loop of the bobbin thread.

3. Pull 15 cm (6″) of both threads back and under the presser foot.

The thread tension is adjusted depending on the sewing materials, layers of fabric and sewing method.

Correct tension: The ideal straight stitch has threads locked between two layers of fabric. For an ideal zigzag stitch, the bobbin thread does not show on the right side (top side) of the fabric, and the needle thread shows slightly on the wrong side (bottom side) of the fabric.

Needle thread tension is too tight: The bobbin thread (bottom thread) will appear on the right side (top side) of the fabric. Loosen the needle thread tension by moving the dial to a lower number.

Needle thread tension is too loose: The needle thread (top thread) will appear on the wrong side (bottom side) of the fabric. Tighten the needle thread tension by moving the dial to a higher number.

Raise the needle and presser foot. Turn the pattern selector dial to select the letter at the setting mark.

Note: Do not turn the pattern selector dial while the needle is in the material.

Turn the stitch length dial to set the desired stitch length at the setting mark. The higher the number, the longer the stitch length.

– The “[]” symbol is the recommended setting for buttonhole stitching.

– Adjust the dial in the 0.5–4 range when you sew the zigzag stitch.

– Set the dial at “S.S.” to sew the stretch stitch pattern.

– If the stretch stitch pattern is not even, turn the stitch length dial in toward “-” to compress it, or “+” to expand it.

As long as you keep the reverse stitch button depressed, the machine sews backwards. This is useful for fastening the end of seams.

To set the darning plate:

1. Position the darning plate with the 3 pins on the bottom.

2. Fit the darning plate pins into the needle plate holes. The feed dogs will show through the darning plate holes.

Settings:

– Pattern selector: A or B

– Presser foot: Zigzag foot

– Thread tension: 2–6

– Stitch length: 1.5–4

Procedure:

1. Raise the presser foot and position the fabric with its edge lining up with a seam guide line on the needle plate.

2. Lower the needle into the fabric.

3. Lower the presser foot and smooth the threads toward the back. Depress the foot control.

4. Gently guide the fabric along the guide line letting the fabric feed by itself.

5. For fastening the end of seams, press the reverse stitch button and sew several reverse stitches.

6. Raise the presser foot and remove the fabric, drawing the threads to the back.

7. Draw the threads up and into the thread cutter. The threads are cut the proper length for starting the next seam.

1. Stop the machine and turn the balance wheel toward you to bring the needle down into the fabric.

2. Raise the presser foot.

3. Pivot the fabric around the needle to change sewing direction as desired.

4. Lower the presser foot and continue sewing.

The numbers on the needle plate indicate the distance between the center needle position and the line. The numbers in front are centimeters. The numbers in back are fractions of an inch.

To turn a square corner 5/8″ (1.6 cm) from the fabric edge:

1. Stop stitching and lower the needle by turning the handwheel counterclockwise.

2. Raise the presser foot and turn the fabric to line the edge with the 5/8″ (1.6 cm) seam guide.

3. Lower the presser foot and begin stitching in the new direction. Line up the fabric edge facing you with the cornering guide shown.

Simple zigzag stitching is widely used for overcasting, sewing on buttons, etc.

Settings:

– Pattern selector: C

– Presser foot: Zigzag foot

– Thread tension: 2–5

– Stitch length: 0.5–4

Settings:

– Pattern selector: D

– Presser foot: Zigzag foot

– Thread tension: 1–4

– Stitch length: 0.5–4

Procedure:

1. Place the fabric under the presser foot so that the edge is just inside the right edge of the presser foot.

2. Guide the work so the right hand stitches fall off the edge of the fabric.

Note: Be careful not to cut the stitches.

This Overedge stitch is ideal for sewing swimwear and stretch velour because it provides the greatest amount of elasticity and strength.

Settings:

– Pattern selector: G

– Presser foot: Zigzag foot

– Thread tension: 1–4

– Stitch length: S.S.

Procedure:

Overedge stitch will be done most successfully when the right side stitches of zigzag fall slightly off the edge of the fabric.

1. Place your fabric to allow a 1.6 cm (5/8″) seam.

2. Trim the seam allowance after sewing.

Note: Be careful not to cut the stitches.

The stitch is sewn with two stitches forward and one stitch backward forming a seam that does not rip easily. Garments should be basted for fitting before seaming.

Settings:

– Pattern selector: A or B

– Presser foot: Zigzag foot

– Thread tension: 2–6

– Stitch length: S.S.

Use the darning plate for button sewing.

Settings:

– Pattern selector: C and B

– Presser foot: Zigzag foot

– Thread tension: 1–3

– Stitch length: Any

– Darning plate

Procedure:

1. Set the Pattern Selector at B (left needle position).

2. Mark the button placements on the fabric.

3. Position the darning plate onto the needle plate.

4. Place fabric under the foot.

5. Place the button under the foot aligning the left hole with the needle point.

6. Lower the foot. Sew a few stitches to lock the threads. Place a straight pin on top of the button in between the holes to create a shank.

7. Set the Pattern Selector at C. Select the zigzag width to match the holes in the button. Turn the balance wheel to confirm correct width. Sew several stitches to secure the button to the fabric.

8. Set the Pattern Selector at B. Sew several stitches to lock the threads.

9. Cut the threads 20 cm (8″) leaving a thread tail.

10. Bring the needle thread down through the button hole and wind it around the thread shank. Draw the thread to the wrong side and knot.

Settings:

– Pattern selector: Buttonhole settings (1, 2, 3, 4)

– Presser foot: Buttonhole foot

– Thread tension: 1–5

– Stitch length: Between 0.5 and 1.0 (to adjust stitch density)

Procedure:

1. Carefully mark buttonhole length on fabric. Place the fabric under the foot with the buttonhole marking running toward you.

2. Slide both threads to the left. Line up the foot with the top mark on the fabric. Lower the needle into the garment where the buttonhole is to start, and lower the foot.

3. Set the pattern selector dial at “1”. Sew forward until you reach the front marking of your buttonhole. Stop sewing at a left stitch.

4. Set the pattern selector dial at “2”. Sew 5 stitches. Stop sewing at a right stitch.

5. Set the pattern selector dial at “3”. Sew until you reach the back marking of the buttonhole. Stop sewing at a right stitch.

6. Set the pattern selector dial at “4”. Sew a few bartacks and raise the needle from the fabric. Set the stitch length dial to “0” and the pattern selector dial at straight sewing. Sew a few locking stitches.

7. Remove the fabric from the machine and cut the sewing thread. Insert a pin inside the bartack. Then cut the opening with a seam ripper. Take care not to cut the stitches.

Settings:

– Pattern selector: E or F

– Presser foot: Zigzag foot

– Thread tension: 2–4

– Stitch length: 1–3

Procedure:

1. On heavyweight fabrics that ravel, the raw edge should be overcast first. Then fold the hem, as illustrated, leaving 1/4″ (0.7 cm) of the hem edge showing.

2. Position the fabric, so that the needle at its leftmost position just pierces the edge of the fold.

3. After hemming is completed, press together both sides of the finished hem. The top side of the fabric should show only the blind stitches.

Settings:

– Pattern selector: G

– Presser foot: Buttonhole foot

– Thread tension: 6–8

– Stitch length: 2–3

Procedure:

Place the folded edge along the slot of foot. The needle should fall off the edge of the fabric on the right forming a tuck.

Settings:

– Pattern selector: A–G

– Presser foot: Zigzag foot

– Thread tension: 1–4

– Stitch length: S.S.

Balancing the pattern:

If forward and reverse feeds become unbalanced due to the type of fabric, restore the balance by turning the stitch length dial as follows:

– If patterns are compressed, turn the dial toward “+”.

– If patterns are drawn out, turn the dial toward “—”.

Settings:

– Pattern selector: D

– Presser foot: Zigzag foot

– Thread tension: 1–4

– Stitch length: S.S.

Procedure:

1. With the stitch length at “4”, sew straight stitching lines 1 cm (3/8″) apart, across the area to be smocked.

2. Knot the threads along one edge. Pull the bobbin threads and distribute the gathers evenly.

3. Secure the threads at the other end.

4. Sew the decorative stitch between the gathering stitches.

5. Pull out the gathering stitches.

Note: Loosen the needle thread tension to make gathering easier.

Settings:

– Pattern selector: C

– Presser foot: Zigzag foot

– Thread tension: 1–4

– Stitch length: 0.5–1

Procedure:

1. Baste (or fuse with iron-on fabric joiner) applique pieces on the fabric.

2. Stitch around the applique making sure the needle falls along the outer edge of the applique.

3. When sewing corners, lower the needle down into the fabric. Raise the presser foot and pivot the fabric to the right or left.

Note: Turn off the power switch and/or unplug the machine.

To dismantle shuttle race unit:

1. Raise the needle to its highest position and open the hook cover.

2. Open the hinged latch of the bobbin case and take it out of the machine.

3. Open the hook race ring holders and remove the shuttle race ring.

4. Remove the hook.

5. Clean the hook race with a brush and a soft dry cloth.

To assemble shuttle race unit:

1. Shuttle the hook by the center pin and fit it carefully back into the shuttle race, forming a perfect circle with the shuttle driver.

2. Attach the shuttle race ring making sure the bottom pin fits into the notch.

3. Lock the shuttle race ring by turning the holders back into position. Insert the bobbin case.

WARNING: Turn off the power switch and/or unplug the machine before cleaning the feed dog.

1. Remove the needle and the presser foot.

2. Remove the needle plate set screw and remove the needle plate.

3. With a brush, clean out dust and lint clogging the feed dog teeth.

4. Reset the needle plate.

The sewing light is located behind the face plate. To change the bulb, take the face plate off the sewing machine by removing the set screw.

– Unplug the power supply before changing the bulb.

– To remove, turn the bulb to the left.

– To attach, turn the bulb to the right.

WARNING: The bulb could be HOT. Protect your fingers when you handle it.

If the needle thread breaks, check the following possible causes:

1. The needle thread is not threaded properly. (Refer to threading instructions)

2. The needle thread tension is too tight. (Refer to tension instructions)

3. The needle is bent or blunt. (Replace the needle)

4. The needle is incorrectly inserted. (Refer to needle changing instructions)

5. The fabric is not being drawn to the back when sewing is finished. (Refer to finishing a seam instructions)

6. The thread is either too heavy or too fine for the needle. (Refer to the thread and needle chart)

If the bobbin thread breaks, check the following possible causes:

1. The bobbin thread is not threaded properly in the bobbin case. (Refer to bobbin threading instructions)

2. Lint has collected in the bobbin case. (Clean the bobbin case)

3. The bobbin is damaged and doesn’t turn smoothly. (Replace bobbin)

If the needle breaks, check the following possible causes:

1. The needle is incorrectly inserted. (Refer to needle changing instructions)

2. The needle is bent or blunt. (Replace the needle)

3. The needle clamp screw is loose. (Tighten the screw)

4. The tension of the needle thread is too tight. (Refer to tension instructions)

5. The fabric is not drawn to the back when sewing is finished. (Refer to finishing a seam instructions)

6. The needle is too fine for the fabric being sewn. (Refer to the thread and needle chart)

7. The pattern selector dial had been turned while the needle was in the material. (Always raise the needle before turning the dial)

If the machine is skipping stitches, check the following possible causes:

1. The needle is incorrectly inserted. (Refer to needle changing instructions)

2. The needle is bent or blunt. (Replace the needle)

3. The needle and/or threads are not suitable for the work being sewn. (Refer to the thread and needle chart)

4. The needle thread is not threaded properly. (Refer to threading instructions)

If your seam is puckering, check the following possible causes:

1. The needle thread tension is too tight. (Refer to tension instructions)

2. The machine is not threaded correctly. (Refer to threading instructions)

3. The needle is too heavy for the fabric being sewn. (Refer to the thread and needle chart)

4. The stitches are too coarse for the fabric being sewn. (Make the stitches denser)

When sewing extremely light weight materials, place a sheet of paper underneath the fabric.

If stitches are forming loops below the work, check the following possible causes:

1. The needle thread tension is too loose. (Refer to tension instructions)

2. The needle is either too heavy or too fine for the thread. (Refer to the thread and needle chart)

If the cloth is not feeding smoothly, check the following possible causes:

1. The feed dog is packed with lint. (Clean the feed dog)

2. The stitches are too fine. (Make the stitches coarser)

If the machine does not work, check the following possible causes:

1. The machine is not plugged in. (Refer to power connection instructions)

2. Thread is caught in the hook race. (Clean the hook race)

3. Handwheel has been disengaged for bobbin winding. (Re-engage the handwheel)

If the machine does not run smoothly and is noisy, check the following possible causes:

1. Threads have been caught in hook mechanism. (Clean the hook mechanism)

2. The feed dog is packed with lint. (Clean the feed dog)