JOHN DEERE 110 (01) PDF MANUAL

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JOHN DEERE 110 (01) PDF SUMMARY:

How do I diagnose malfunctions?

Diagnosing malfunctions lists possible troubles, their causes, and how to correct them. Under specific components these troubles are analyzed to help understand what is causing the problem so it can be corrected rather than just replacing parts and having the same problem keep recurring.

What preliminary engine tests should I perform?

Compression test: 110-120 psi (1000 rpm). Refer to Section 20, Group 5 or 25.
Crankcase vacuum: 5-10 inches of water column. Refer to Section 20, Group 5 or 25.
Battery hydrometer test: 1.260-1.280 Sp. gr. 100% charged at 80° F. Refer to Section 40, Group 10.

What does a minor tune-up include?

Change oil. Summer above 32° F: SAE 30 (AM 30730). Winter below 32° F: SAE 5W-20 (AM 30710). Refer to Section 10, Group 20.
Clean and regap spark plug: Clean electrodes, clean insulation, replace gasket, and set gap at 0.025 in. Refer to Section 40, Group 10.
Remove air cleaner and clean by tapping lightly against a flat surface. Replace if necessary. Check air cleaner condition in Section 30, Group 15.
Adjust carburetor: high-speed mixture needle and idle mixture needle. Refer to Section 30, Group 10.
Adjust governor speed: Speed (fast) – 3800 rpm no load, Speed (idle) – 1200-1700 rpm. Refer to Section 20, Group 20 or 40.
Check and clean fuel tank, sediment bowl, and strainer. Use regular gasoline only. Refer to Section 30, Group 20.

What does a major tune-up include?

A major tune-up should include all items listed for “Minor Tune-Up” in addition to the following:

Recondition carburetor and install carburetor kit. Refer to Section 30, Group 10.
Inspect and clean breather assembly. Replace parts as necessary and install new gaskets. Check crankcase vacuum after assembly. Refer to Section 20, Group 10 or 30.
Remove shrouding and clean engine and cylinder head fins. Refer to Section 20, Group 10 or 30.
Test condenser: Capacity 0.18-0.23 Microfarads, Delco No. 1965489. Refer to Section 40, Group 10.
Test coil: Operating amp 2.25 max, Secondary continuity Min. 3.9 OHMS, Max. 4.08 OHMS, Delco No. 11 15043. Refer to Section 40, Group 10.
Replace breaker points: Point gap 0.020 in. Refer to Section 40, Group 10.
Retime ignition: “SP” or “S” mark on flywheel at 1200-1800 rpm. Refer to Section 40, Group 10.

What common adjustments are recommended after an engine tune-up is completed?

Clutch, brake, and variable speed. Refer to Section 50, Group 10.
Steering linkage. Refer to Section 70, Group 5.
Belt tension:
- Motor-Generator – Refer to Section 40, Group 15.
- Hydraulic Pump – Refer to Section 60, Group 15.
- Primary – Refer to Section 50, Group 10.
- Secondary – Refer to Section 50, Group 10.

What type of fuel should I use?

Use regular grade gasoline only of recognized brand. It should be fresh and from a supplier blended for the area in which it is to be used. Summer blends held over for winter use will not vaporize properly at lower temperatures and may be the reason for slow starts. White gas may be used only if the octane rating is at least 75. Do not mix oil with gasoline. Never use premium or leaded gasoline (ethyl) in small tractor engines.

What lubricants should I use?

Oil used in the engine crankcase should have an American Petroleum Institute (API)/SAE classification of service MS. Never fill engine crankcase above the “F” mark on the dipstick. Refer to heat charts for types of lubricants, capacities, and service intervals recommended for both 110 and 112 tractors.

What type of lubricant should be used for 110 and 112 tractors?

Crankcase: (API)/SAE Service MS Detergent type
- Summer – Above 32" F: SAE 30 – John Deere AM30730
- Winter – Below 32 " F: SAE 5W-20 John Deere AM30710
Transaxle – John Deere AM30200M
Hydraulic Lift – Automatic Transmission Fluid Type A
Tractor Grease Fittings and Front Wheel Bearings – SAE (Seasonal grade ) Multi-Purpose Type Grease

What are the service intervals for 110 and 112 tractors?

Crankcase (Oil change)
- Break-in: First 2 hours
- Regular: Every 25 hours
- Dusty conditions: Every 8 hours
Transaxle (Oil change): 200 hours or 2 years
Hydraulic Lift System: 200 hours or 2 years
Tractor Grease Fittings: Spring and fall season
Front Wheel Bearings (repack): Each time wheel is removed

How do I change the crankcase oil?

Before draining oil, allow engine to warm up. Dirt and foreign material is in suspension when oil is hot.

How do I change the transaxle oil?

Pressure oil can or equivalent to fill transaxle.

Where are the grease fittings located?

110 Tractors Serial No. 40001 and higher and 112 Tractors have grease fittings. 110 Tractors Serial No. 40000 and below do not have all grease fittings. NOTE: Do not overlubricate steering column fitting. Only 3 or 4 strokes with hand grease gun or 15 to 20 strokes with JDSBO/J Lubricant are necessary. Do not use high-pressure grease guns on this fitting.

What preliminary engine checks should I perform?

A complete diagnosis guide of engine malfunctions appears. The majority of engine trouble reports are of a minor non-chronic nature and are usually due to electrical or fuel system difficulties. First make the checks listed below to isolate the majority of engine problems. Check spark. If the engine will not crank, follow diagnosis procedure. Remove ignition cable from spark plug and install adaptor or ordinary paper clip. Hold approximately 1/4 inch away from spark plug terminal while cranking the engine. If there is a good spark between the adaptor and the spark plug terminal, the problem is in the fuel-air system. If the gas tank is full, check the shut-off valve on the sediment bowl and gas lines to the carburetor to be certain gas is getting to the carburetor. Connect the high tension wire to spark plug and crank engine. Choke as necessary. If engine still does not start, refer to “Diagnosing Malfunctions” guide to check for internal difficulties. If there is not a spark at the adaptor or a weak spark, the trouble is in the electrical system. If the battery and spark plug are good and all electrical connections are tight, the trouble most likely is in the breaker points and condenser. Clean or replace points and adjust gap. If breaker points are burned, replace the condenser also.

What preliminary engine tests can be performed?

The following preliminary engine tests are recommended to detect and isolate possible malfunctions before proceeding with further diagnosis. These tests are especially important when the engine is burning oil, losing power or running erratically and when carburetion and ignition adjustments cannot correct the condition.

How do I perform a compression test?

Depress clutch-brake pedal and set parking brake. Be sure oil in crankcase is at proper level and battery is properly charged.
Be sure tractor drives are all disengaged. Run engine until warm, then stop the engine.
Remove spark plug. Also remove air filter for most accurate test.
Set throttle and choke valve in wide open position by raising throttle lever all the way and lowering choke lever.
Install compression gauge in cylinder. Follow manufacturer’s recommendations for installing and reading compression tester.

What do the results of a compression test indicate?

An engine in top operating condition will read 110 to 120 psi when engine is cranked approximately 1000 rpm.
A compression test above 120 psi indicates excessive deposits in the combustion chamber or on the piston.
A reading lower than 100 psi indicates leakage at the cylinder head gasket, piston rings, or valves. The engine should be reconditioned if compression falls below 100 psi.
To determine whether the rings or the valves are at fault, pour about one tablespoonful of heavy oil into the spark plug hole. Crank the engine several revolutions to spread the oil and repeat the compression test. The oil will temporarily seal leakage around the piston rings. If the same approximate compression reading is obtained, the rings are satisfactory, but the valves are leaking or the piston is damaged. If the compression has increased considerably over the original readings, there is leakage past the rings.

How do I perform a crankcase vacuum test?

The crankshaft breather maintains a partial vacuum in the crankcase when the engine is operating properly.
Connect water U-tube manometer to oil filter hole in cylinder block. Tester must hang vertically.
Start and run engine at 1200-1700 rpm. Allow engine to warm up.
Observe reading on scale. Follow manufacturer’s recommendations for installation, testing and compensation for the effect of altitude, on the gauge reading.

What do the results of a crankcase vacuum test indicate?

Proper crankcase vacuum for both the K161 and K181 engines is 5-inches to 10-inches water column.
A crankcase vacuum reading lower than indicated is most likely due to a leaking breather valve or improperly assembled breather. Carefully reassemble breather parts.
A low vacuum reading may also indicate loose motor-generator belt. Adjust belt tension.

What are some possible malfunctions and how do I correct them?

Engine will not crank:
- Dead battery: Charge or replace battery.
- Loose electrical connections: Tighten connections firmly.
- Defective starting switch: Replace switch.
- Broken or loose motor-generator belt. Adjust or replace belt.
- Broken motor-generator sheave. Replace motor-generator sheave.
- Defective solenoid. Replace solenoid.
- Loose electrical connections. Tighten connections firmly.
- Motor -generator malfunction. Check condition of motor-generator. Repair or replace if necessary.
- Engine seized. Check engine condition.
Engine cranks but will not start:
- Empty fuel tank: Fill fuel tank.
- Restricted fuel tank vent: Replace cap or cap gauge assembly.
- Fuel shut-off valve closed (valve below fuel tank): Open shut-off.
- Clogged, restricted, or air lock in fuel line: Clean and bleed line. Replace line if necessary.
- Breaker points worn or pitted: Check condition. Replace if necessary.
- Spark plug fouled or pitted: Check condition of plug. Clean and regap. Replace if necessary.
- Incorrect spark plug: Install proper spark plug.
- Battery not fully charged: Charge battery and check condition. Replace battery if necessary.
- Loose electrical connections: Tighten connections firmly.
- Wire leads not properly connected: Connect wire leads to their respective terminals.
- High speed and idle mixture needles not properly adjusted: Adjust carburetor.
- Faulty condenser: Replace condenser.
- Defective ignition coil: Replace coil.
- Dirt in fuel system: Remove fuel system and clean dirt and water from system. Install new gaskets. Install carburetor kit if necessary.
- Frayed wire(s) causing ground(s): Repair wire(s), replace if necessary.
Engine starts hard:
- Spark plug pitted or fouled: Check condition of plug. Clean and regap. Replace if necessary.
- Breaker points worn, pitted, or out of adjustment: Check breaker point condition. Clean and regap. Replace breaker points if necessary.
- High tension wire shorted: Replace wire.
- Dirt or water in fuel system: Remove fuel system and clean dirt and water from system. Install new gasket. Install carburetor kit if necessary.
- High speed and idle mixture needles not properly adjusted: Adjust needles properly.
- Wrong valve clearance: Check and adjust valve clearance.
- Blown head gasket: Replace gasket and torque cylinder head properly.
- Restricted exhaust system: Check exhaust system condition. Replace muffler if necessary.
- Low compression: Check compression and service engine accordingly.
Engine starts but fails to keep running:
- Restricted fuel tank vent: Replace fuel cap or cap gauge assembly.
- High speed and idle mixture needles not properly adjusted: Adjust needles properly.
- Broken choke cable: Replace and adjust cable properly.
- Dirt or water in fuel system: Remove fuel system and clean dirt and water from system. Install new gaskets. Install carburetor kit if necessary.
- Carburetor float not properly adjusted or leak float: Check float condition, adjust float. Install new float and adjust if necessary.
- High tension wire loose at spark plug or coil: Check spark plug connection and install wire properly in coil.
- High tension wire shorted: Replace wire.
- Breaker points not properly adjusted: Clean and regap. Replace breaker points if necessary.
- Loose connections: Check and tighten wires properly.
- Defective head gasket: Replace head gasket and torque cylinder head properly.
- Faulty condenser: Check condenser. Replace if necessary.
- Excessive engine load (lugging engine): Reduce engine load.
Engine runs but misses:
- High tension wire loose from spark plug or coil: Check spark plug connection and install wire properly in coil.
- Breaker points out of adjustment or worn and pitted: Clean and adjust. Replace points if necessary.
- Spark plug fouled or pitted, incorrect gap: Clean and regap plug. Replace plug if necessary.
- Incorrect spark plug: Install proper plug.
- Loose electrical connections: Tighten connections.
- Carburetor float not properly adjust or hole in float: Check condition of float. Adjust float to proper position. Replace leaky float.
- Dirt or water in fuel system: Remove fuel system and clean dirt and water from system. Install new gasket. Install carburetor kit if necessary.
- Wrong valve clearance: Check valve clearance and valve condition. Repair valves if necessary.
- Faulty coil: Check coil condition. Replace coil if necessary.
Engine idles but dies as throttle advances:
- Spark plug fouled or pitted, incorrect gap: Check spark plug condition. Clean and regap. Replace spark plug if necessary.
- High speed and idle mixture needles not properly adjusted: Adjust needles.
- Spark plug fouled or pitted, incorrect gap: Check spark plug condition. Clean and regap. Replace spark plug if necessary.
- Incorrect spark plug: Install proper spark plug.
- Breaker points out of adjustment or worn and pitted: Clean and adjust. Replace points if necessary.
- Ignition out of time: Set engine timing.
- Dirt or water in fuel system: Remove fuel system and clean dirt and water from system. Install new gaskets. Install carburetor kit if necessary.
- Old fuel: Drain and refill fuel tank with fresh fuel.
- Linkage misaligned (throttle arm to governor arm): Straighten linkage to prevent binding.
- Engine idles too low: Adjust idle speed.
- High speed mixture needles not properly adjusted: Adjust needles properly.
- Dirt or water in fuel system: Remove fuel system and clean dirt and water from system. Install new gaskets. Install carburetor kit if necessary.
- Linkage misaligned (throttle arm to governor arm): Straighten linkage to prevent binding.
- Spark plug fouled or pitted, incorrect gap: Check spark plug condition. Clean and regap. Replace spark plug if necessary.
- Wrong valve clearance: Check valve clearance and valve condition. Repair valves if necessary.
- Low compression: Check compression.
Engine will not idle or accelerate when throttle is advanced:
- Choke engine before advancing throttle.
- High speed and idle mixture needles not properly adjusted: Adjust needles.
- Spark plug fouled or pitted, incorrect gap: Check spark plug condition. Clean and regap. Replace spark plug if necessary.
- Linkage misaligned (throttle arm to governor): Straighten linkage to prevent binding.
Engine loses power:
- Crankcase low on oil: Fill crankcase to proper level. Change oil if tractor has been operated 8 hours since last oil change.
- Engine shrouding plugged: Remove shrouding and clean engine fins and inside of shrouding.
- Excessive engine load: Reduce engine load by shifting transmission in lower gear and/or by moving variable-speed control lever back.
- Restricted air filter: Clean and check air filter element condition. Replace filter if necessary.
- Dirt or water in fuel system: Remove fuel system and clean dirt and water from system. Install new gaskets. Install carburetor kit if necessary.
- High speed and idle mixture needle not properly adjusted: Adjust needles properly.
- Spark plug fouled or pitted, incorrect gap: Check spark plug condition. Clean and regap. Replace spark plug if necessary.
- Too much oil in crankcase: Drain oil and refill crankcase with proper amount of crankcase lubricant.
- Low engine compression: Check compression. Repair and replace parts as necessary. Torque head bolts.
- Worn cylinder bore: Check cylinder condition. Repair as necessary.
Engine overheats:
- Dirty or plugged shrouding and engine fins: Remove shrouding and clean engine fins and shrouding.
- High speed and idle mixture needles not properly adjusted: Adjust needles properly.
- Too much oil in crankcase: Drain oil and fill crankcase with proper amount of crankcase lubricant.
- Worn valve stem and/or guides: Check condition of valve stems and guides. Replace valves and/or guides if necessary.
- Crankcase low on oil: Fill crankcase to proper level. Change oil if tractor has been operated 8 hours since last oil change.
- Excessive engine load: Reduce workload by shifting transmission in lower gear and/or by moving variable-speed control lever back.
- Faulty breather causing low crankcase vacuum: Clean breather assembly. Replace parts as necessary.
Engine knocks:
- Engine out of time: Time ignition.
- Old fuel: Drain fuel tank and refill with good grade of regular gasoline.
- Excessive engine load: Reduce engine load by shifting transmission in lower gear and/or by moving variable-speed control lever back.
- Crankcase low on oil: Fill crankcase to proper level. Change oil if tractor has been operated 8 hours since last oil change.
Engine backfires:
- High speed and idle mixture needles not properly adjusted: Adjust needles properly.
- Loose cylinder head or blown head gasket: Torque head bolts. Replace head gasket if necessary.
- Leaky valve sticking in guide: Clean stem in guide.
- Ignition out of time: Time ignition.
Engine Floods or Pours out Black Smoke at High Speed:
- Restricted air filter: Clean and check air filter element condition. Replace filter if necessary.
- Spark plug fouled or pitted, incorrect gap: Check spark plug condition. Clean and regap. Replace spark plug if necessary.
- Incorrect spark plug: Install correct plug.
- Restricted exhaust: Repair and clean muffler. Replace muffler if necessary.
- Breaker points out of adjustment, worn and pitted: Clean and adjust. Replace points if necessary.
- Clogged fuel line or air lock: Clean and bleed air from fuel line. Replace fuel line if necessary.
- Broken choke cable: Replace cable and adjust choke valve to correspond with control on panel.
- Clogged breather assembly: Clean breather assembly. Install new parts as necessary.
- Defective ignition coil: Check coil. Replace coil if necessary.
Engine Does Not Maintain Constant Speed (Surges):
- High speed and idle mixture needles not properly adjusted: Adjust needles properly.
- Spark plug gap incorrect: Check spark plug condition. Clean and regap spark plug. Install new spark plug if necessary.
- Throttle to governor linkage not properly assembled: Assemble linkage correctly.
- Breaker points out of adjustment, worn or pitted: Clean and adjust. Replace points if necessary.
- Dirt or water in fuel system: Remove fuel system and clean dirt and water from system. Install new gaskets. Install carburetor kit if necessary.
- Sensitive governor: Install anti-surge spring.
Engine Smokes with Excessive Amount of Oil:
- Clogged breather assembly: Clean breather assembly. Replace parts as necessary.
- Breather not assembled properly: Assemble breather properly.
- Worn or broken piston rings: Install new rings.
- Worn cylinder bore: Recondition cylinder. Replace parts as necessary.
- Clogged oil holes in piston: Clean piston and check piston condition. Install new parts as necessary.
- Wrong size piston rings: Install proper rings.
- Worn valve stems and/or valve guides: Check condition of valve stems and guides. Replace valves and/or guides if necessary.
- Incorrect oil viscosity: Drain crankcase and fill with oil of proper viscosity.
- Faulty breather causing low crankcase vacuum: Check crankcase vacuum. Replace parts as necessary.
Engine Runs Erratically:
- Dirt or water in fuel system: Remove fuel system and clean dirt and water from system. Install new gaskets. Install new carburetor kit if necessary.
- High speed and idle mixture needles not properly adjusted: Adjust needles properly.
- Idle speed too low: Turn idle screw until proper idle rpm is obtained.
- Spark plug fouled or pitted, incorrect gap: Check spark plug condition. Clean and regap. Replace spark plug if necessary.
- Poor compression: Check compression. Repair and replace parts as necessary.
- Faulty breather causing low crankcase vacuum: Check crankcase vacuum. Replace parts as necessary.
- Carburetor leaking at gaskets or at connection: Install new gasket(s) and/or tighten connection.
- Restricted fuel tank vent: Replace filler cap or cap gauge assembly.
- Throttle to governor linkage misassembled: Assemble and adjust linkage properly.
- Sensitive governor: Install anti-surge spring.
Gasoline in Crankcase:
- Carburetor float not properly adjusted or leaking: Check condition of float. Adjust or replace float if necessary.
- Float valve and/or seat: Check condition of needle and seat. Install carburetor kit if necessary.

Is it necessary to remove the engine from the tractor to grind valves and valve seats or to service the breather assembly?

No.

What special caution should be taken any time the valves are removed on tractors, Serial No. (40001-100,000) equipped with hydraulic lift?

Insure that the correct valve spring and tappet are used with the rotator on the exhaust valve assembly.

What do lead deposits on the intake valve indicate?

Lead deposits on the intake valve consist mostly of lead and some metal which comes from the lubricating oil. It is caused by a small amount of leakage of exhaust gases back into the intake port area, which indicates that the valve is not seating properly. Grind the valve and reface the seat to correct this condition. Be sure to correct valve-to-tappet clearance after grinding valves.

What do dark discolorations of the valve stem indicate?

Exhaust valves are designed to function in temperatures exceeding 5000° F. However, when operating at this temperature for long periods of time, valve burning occurs. Tell-tale signs of valves running too hot is the dark discoloration of the valve stem down into that area protected by the valve guide. Another indication is disfiguration of the valve margin and valve face. Valve inserts may also begin to burn away.

What does a gummy substance on the valve indicate?

Gasoline which has been left in the tank a long time is a common cause of sticking valves. Sometimes this gummy substance can be seen on the valve. When this condition is found, it is also likely that the carburetor also contains deposits and will require a complete cleaning. Advise customer always to use fresh gasoline and always to drain gas from all fuel lines and carburetor before storing tractor.

Is it necessary to remove the engine from the tractor when servicing the cylinder head, head gasket, muffler, breather assembly, valves, and valve seats?

No.

What is an important step to remember on tractors equipped with hydraulic lift?

Do not disconnect the hydraulic lines. Remove the pump, valve, and reservoir assembly from the top of the engine and lower it to the ground with the hydraulic lines still attached. This procedure avoids the possibility of dirt entering the system.

How do I remove valves?

Disconnect choke conduit and cable at carburetor. Remove carburetor, breather assembly, and hydraulic lift system on engine, motor generator bracket, head baffle, cylinder head, and head gasket.
Use a valve spring compressor to compress valve springs. Remove keepers from valve stem and lift valves from engine block.
Remove valve spring retainers and valve springs from valve chamber. Note that 110H Tractors have a rotator type retainer and the exhaust valve spring is shorter than the intake valve spring.

How do I inspect the cylinder head?

Remove all deposits from combustion chamber and gasket surface of head with a scraper and a wire brush. Be careful not to damage the cylinder head gasket surface.
Use a safe cleaning solvent to remove dirt, grease, and other deposits.
Check the cylinder head for cracks, broken cooling fins, and inspect the gasket surface for burrs and nicks. Replace the head if any of these conditions are found.
When a cylinder head is removed because of gasket leaks, check the flatness of the cylinder head by placing it on a face plate. Check to see that gasket surfaces make contact at all points. Replace the cylinder head if it is warped.

Always use a new head gasket after removing cylinder head.

How do I inspect the breather?

Clean all breather parts in solvent. Blow out filter contamination with compressed air or replace with new filter as necessary.
Inspect reed valve on breather to be certain it covers all of breather hole. When depressed in the center, the valve should close over the hole with a snap. Replace valve plate having weak tension.
Be sure small drain hole in breather plate is not clogged.

How do I test valve springs?

Check valve spring for squareness, using a steel square and a surface plate. Stand the spring and square on end on the surface plate. Slide the spring up to the square. Revolve the spring slowly and observe the space between the top coil of the spring and the square. See Specifications for out-of-square limits.
Check valve spring for proper pressure. Refer to Specifications for free length of the spring and the pressure in pounds that the spring should exert when it is compressed to a measured length.

How do I inspect valves?

Remove carbon from valve head, face, and stem with a power-operated wire brush. Be sure carbon is removed and not merely burnished. Any carbon left on the stem will affect accurate alignment in the valve refacer collet. Check valve faces, heads, and stems for defects. Also look for bent valve stems and excessive corrosion causing pits on valve face or stem. Replace valves with warped head. Recondition or replace valves with less than 1/64-inch margin. Valve stem ends should be ground square before checking valve tappet clearance.

How do I recondition or replace valves?

Clean the valve guides first to assure valve alignment when cutting valve seats.
Use valve guide cleaner to clean inside of valve guide. Then measure I.D. of valve guide and O.D. of valve stem. Refer to Specifications for clearance. Replace and ream guides as necessary.

Broken or worn exhaust valve seats (insert) may be replaced. They are either stellite or molychrome nickel. The intake valve seat is machined into the cylinder block. When required, an intake valve seat may be installed.

The valve seating surface “A” should be held as close to 1/32 inch as possible. Seats with more than 1/16 -inch seating surface should be narrowed (cut back) with 30° cutters, “E”.

The valve seat angle “B’’ depends upon valve face angle ”C”. New valves have a 45" face. Recondition valve seats with 45° cutters and lap valves.

When reconditioning valves, be sure there is no more than 1/16-inch and no less than 1/64-inch margin “D” on the valve.

When matching valves to seats, be sure valve seat is very nearly centered on the valve face. The position of the valve in the seat is clearly evident after lapping the valve.

How do I lap valves?

Coat face of valve sparingly with a fine grade of valve grinding compound.
Use a vacuum cup tool to grip top of valve and rotate valve in an oscillating circular motion on valve seat.
Lift valve from seat every eight or ten strokes to keep compound equalized on surface of valve face. Continue valve lapping operation until a uniform lapping ring appears around entire surface of valve face.
When a good surface is obtained, wash all parts with solvent to remove all traces of lapping compound. Dry parts thoroughly.

Note position of valve seat marked on valve face. The lapping mark made by the seat after lapping should appear on or near the center of the valve face.

How do I replace valve guides?

If valve guide clearance exceeds maximum tolerance, replace the guide.
Tap the valve guide its full length using a 3/8-inch N. C. tap and tapping compound or oil to prevent tap from breaking off in valve guide.
Thread a 3/8- N.C. x 6-inch cap screw its full length.
Install a nut, washer, and spacer on the cap screw; then, turn the cap screw into the valve guide the full length of the valve guide.
Hold cap screw and keep turning nut against washer until valve guide is completely free from cylinder block.

Valve guides can also be removed by drifting them down into the valve spring chamber and carefully breaking them. Use care not to damage the cylinder block. Thoroughly clean hole and press valve guide into the hole 1- 5/16 inches from the top of the block. After installing new guide, ream hole as required for necessary valve clearance in guide. Refer to Specifications for valve guide clearances.

How do I replace an exhaust valve insert?

To remove exhaust seat insert, use extractor or a valve seat puller. Clean seat area thoroughly before installing new insert. If an extractor is not available, break insert and drive out. Exhaust valve insert is retained by press fit only. Chill both the insert and driving tool in dry ice before pressing insert into block.

How do I install an intake valve insert?

If the intake valve seat is beyond repair in the cast iron block, an insert is available for service. Bore block to depth shown and install insert as explained above for exhaust valve inserts.

How do you clean carbon from piston ring grooves?

Clean carbon from piston ring grooves with a ring groove cleaner. If a cleaning tool is unavailable, break an old ring and use it to clean the groove.

How do you check ring grooves for excessive wear?

Check ring grooves for excessive wear by inserting a ring in the proper groove at several points around the piston. Measure clearance between ring and groove with a feeler gauge. Refer to specifications for ring groove side clearance. Replace piston having ring clearance beyond wear limits.

What should you inspect the piston for?

Inspect piston for fractures at the ring lands, skirts, and ring bosses, and for rough or scored skirts.

What should you do if piston-to-cylinder bore clearance is 0.005-inch or less?

If piston-to-cylinder bore clearance is 0.005-inch or less, deglaze the cylinder walls and install a set of heavy-duty rings.

What should you do if cylinder-to-bore clearance is more than 0.005-inch?

If cylinder-to-bore clearance is more than 0.005-inch, the cylinder will have to be bored and over size piston and rings installed.

What are possible causes of detonation?

When detonation is suspected and detected consider the following possible causes:

Lean fuel mixtures.
Hot spark plugs.
Advanced ignition timing.
Engine overheating.
Build-up of carbon deposits on piston and cylinder head causing excessive compression.
Wrong cylinder head or re-surfacing of head increasing compression ratio.

What should you check and correct when pre-ignition is suspected and detected?

When pre-ignition is suspected and detected, check and correct the following possible causes:

Internal carbon deposits which remain incandescent.
Incorrect spark plug (high heat range).
Broken ceramic in spark plug.
Sharp edges on valves or elsewhere in the combustion chamber.

What can cause a diagonal wear pattern on a piston?

Check rod and piston alignment when a piston shows a diagonal wear pattern extending across the skirt of the piston. Contact with cylinder-wall shows on bottom of skirt at left and ring lands on the right.

What can cause pin locks to loosen or break?

Pin locks loosen or break due to:

Rod misalignment.
Excessive crankshaft end play.
Crank pin taper.
Weak pin locks.
Pin locks incorrectly installed.

How should you inspect a crankshaft?

Wipe crankshaft dry and check general condition. Clean up threads on end of shaft if necessary.

What should you do if the crankshaft journal indicates wear beyond specified limits or if the journal is scored?

If crankshaft journal indicates wear beyond specified limits or if journal is scored, take the crankshaft to a competent automotive shop to turn the crankpin down 0.010-inch. An undersize connecting rod and cap must then be installed.

After cleaning and drying parts, what should you check the rod and cap for?

After cleaning and drying parts, check rod and cap for signs of bending, cracking or unusual wear patterns.

What can crankshaft and connecting rod damage result from?

Crankshaft and connecting rod damage can result from:

Engine run low on oil or without oil.
Oil slinger broken off bearing cap.
Oil hole in connecting rod plugged with sludgy oil.
Oil not changed regularly.
Bearing cap installed incorrectly.

How do you inspect and repair the block?

After thoroughly cleaning the block, check it for cracks. Cracks not visible to the naked eye may be detected by coating the suspected area with a mixture of 25% kerosene and 75% light engine oil. Wipe the part dry and immediately apply a coating of zinc oxide dissolved in wood alcohol. If a crack is present, the coating will become discolored at the defective area. Replace the block if cracked.

How do you measure cylinder bore?

Use a telescoping gauge and micrometer to measure bore in two places at top and bottom of ring travel area. Out-of-round dimension is the difference between dimensions A and B. Cylinder wall taper is the difference between dimension A at the top and dimension A at the bottom of cylinder bore. See Specifications, for wear tolerance.

What is the purpose of deglazing a cylinder bore?

Deglazing is not intended to remove an appreciable amount of metal from the bore, but rather to clean up and provide the proper surface.

What type of tool is generally preferred for deglazing?

A 200-280 grit tool is generally preferred for deglazing. A cross hatch pattern of approximately 45° should be obtained while operating the tool vertically during deglazing.

How do you inspect camshaft?

Check camshaft for broken or cracked gear teeth. Check operation of ACR assembly making sure all parts are intact and operate freely. Check condition of flyweight springs.

What should you check main bearings for?

Check for unusual signs of wear such as race turning within bearing or bearing deflection caused by excessive engine lugging.

What may cause a bearing to crack?

Bearings allowed to cock while inserting or pressing them over a burr may cause the bearing to crack. Always use bearing driver tool and remove burrs before installing bearings.

What can misalignment of bearings cause?

Misaligned bearings cause undue wear, heat by friction and eventual failure.

How do you install the crankshaft?

Cover keyway in PTO end of crankshaft with a strip of scotch tape to prevent cutting seal if seal has been left in block. Slip power take-off end of crankshaft into bearing in cylinder block.

How do you install main bearing and bearing plate?

With bearing plate properly supported, press main bearing, shielded side up, into bearing plate until bearing bottoms in bearing bore. Be sure shielded side is up. Ball bearings must not be exposed to engine crankcase oil.

How do you install bearing plate on cylinder block?

Install gasket and bearing plate over crankshaft, attach with four one-inch cap screws and copper washers. Draw cap screws up evenly until correct torque is obtained.

How do you check crankshaft end clearance?

Seat the bearings by first tapping the tapered end of crankshaft with a mallet. Then tap PTO end of crank shaft. Check distance between bearing ring and crankshaft shoulder with a feeler gauge. Use gaskets as required to obtain correct crankshaft end clearance.

How do you install oil seals?

Install oil seals with lip facing inward. Use a seal tool to protect seal from being damaged during installation. Drive seal in seal bore until outer face of seal is flush or 1/32-inch beyond flush of engine exterior.

How do you assemble connecting rod and piston?

Support connecting rod in a bench vise and slip piston down over connecting rod. Coat piston pin with a light film of oil. Insert piston pin through piston bore and connecting rod and into opposite piston bore. A properly fitted piston pin can be pressed into position with hand pressure. Install retainer in both ends of piston pin bore, making sure that snap rings are securely seated in retainer grooves in piston bore. Use a commercial rod aligner to check rod and piston alignment. Follow manufacturers recommendations for checking and correcting alignment.

How do you check piston ring end gap?

Before installing rings on piston, insert each ring into the cylinder bore to check ring end gap. Always check ring end gap whenever new rings are installed. Use an inverted piston without rings to push the ring squarely to a point in the bore which is approximately the center of piston ring travel. Measure the ring end gap by inserting a feeler gauge between the ends of the ring. See Specifications for correct ring gap. Minor increase in gap clearance can be made by filing the ends of the ring but this must be done accurately on equipment made for this purpose.

How do you install rings and piston?

After checking ring side clearance and end gap, use ring expander to position all rings exactly as shown. Stagger the piston ring gaps by moving each ring until the gaps are out of alignment as much as possible. Coat piston and rings generously with light oil and insert complete assembly into cylinder bore using ring compressor.

How do you attach the rod to the crankshaft?

After piston assembly is installed, place block on end and oil connecting rod and crank pin. Be sure that match marks on connecting rod and cap are aligned and face flywheel side of engine. Attach connecting rod cap, lock plate and cap screws to the connecting rod. Use a torque wrench to tighten connecting rod cap screws to 220-inch pounds. Back off screws and tighten to 200-inch pounds. Bend lips of lock plate to rod cap screw heads to prevent screws from loosening.

How do you install the oil pan on the block?

Place a new gasket on oil pan. Position oil pan to match cylinder block. Place coil bracket on front of cylinder block. Install two 3/8 x 1-1/4-inch cap screws through coil bracket and engine block. Install two 3/8 x 1-inch cap screws through rear of engine block. Refer to Torque Chart, and torque cap screws accordingly.

How do you install the flywheel?

Place square key in crankshaft keyway. Assemble flywheel, washer and nut on end of crankshaft and tighten nut. Place bar between flywheel fins or use strap wrench while torquing nut. See Specifications, for proper flywheel nut torque.

How do you install shrouding?

Install blower housing, cylinder baffle, head baffle and motor generator bracket. Install sheave and screen to engine block. Tighten screw firmly. Note position of 1/4 x 3/8 -inch cap screw.

How do you install exterior components?

Install coil and condenser. Attach leads to their respective terminals, See Electrical System. Be sure breaker point push rod is in place. Also inspect, clean and adjust breaker points if necessary.

How do you remove the camshaft and tappets?

Remove engine and all component parts covered in Group 15. Use a blunt punch to drive camshaft pin out of block. Drive pin out from power take-off side of cylinder block only. Pin will slide out easily after it is driven free from this side of block. Lift out camshaft. Mark tappets before removing to be sure they are returned to same tappet hole. Lift tappets out.

How do you remove the governor?

Loosen nut on governor arm shaft and slide off all external parts. Turn block upside down and remove governor stop pin and copper washer. Governor assembly and cross shaft may then be removed.

How do you install the governor?

Place cylinder block on its side. Install cross shaft from inside of block. Place brass washer and governor gear assembly on stub shaft. Place washer on holding screw and turn in from outside of engine block. Place washer and speed control disk on end of cross shaft. Thread bushing nut into block clamping speed control bracket into place. Loosen nut lightly.

How do you adjust end clearance?

Grasp end of cross shaft and work cross shaft in and out to determine end clearance. Cross shaft should be free to move in and out approximately 1/64 to 1/32 inch. Adjust for more or less end clearance by tapping needle bearing either in or out of block. Spin the governor gear assembly to be sure it rotates freely.

How do you assemble spark advance camshaft?

Place tappets back in same holes from which they were removed. Assemble spark advance camshaft by first loosening springs on flyweights and positioning cam as shown. Position breaker cam between flyweight lugs. Be sure timing mark on cam is directly opposite protrusion on camshaft casting. Load camshaft springs after installing cam by sliding them into position behind flyweights.

How do you install camshaft?

While holding camshaft assembly, insert camshaft pin. Be sure to install thin shim washer(s) on shaft next to bearing plate side of block. Drive pin into block until end of pin is flush with block exterior (flywheel side of block). Use feeler gauge to check camshaft end clearance. Use 0.005 to 0.010-inch spacer washers as required to obtain correct clearance. Spin camshaft to be sure governor and camshaft turn freely.

How do you install the governor arm?

Turn block upright and slide governor arm, spring and bolt assembly on end of cross shaft. Be sure spring is positioned into slot in speed control disk. Before tightening bolt on cross shaft, turn governor shaft counterclockwise as far as possible. While holding governor arm to the left (away from block) tighten bolt. Move governor through its full arc of travel to be sure it operates loosely. Relieve pressure on bushing nut if too tight.

How do you connect the governor arm to the carburetor?

Connect linkage between governor arm and carburetor in correct holes as indicated.

How do you install the engine in the tractor?

Position engine in tractor and attach engine base to same holes in tractor frame. When installing service engines with a bottom oil drain on older tractors, an extra hole must be drilled and enlarged. Locate hole from dimensions given in Figure 18. Attach ground wire to bracket shown. Connect wires to coil and motor-generator. Attach choke and throttle cables. Be sure choke is fully open when control lever on dash panel is down. Also make certain throttle cable synchronizes the throttle control with carburetor control. Install and tighten gas tank and bands.

How do you make governor speed adjustments?

Governor speed is regulated by the position of the governor bracket. The bracket acts as a stop limiting the rotation of the speed control disk. After engine is operable, start engine and check engine speed at full throttle. Move governor bracket up or down as required until maximum engine speed is 3800 rpm with all drives disengaged. Tighten bushing nut but avoid excessive pressure. Governor arm must operate loosely.

How do you perform preliminary engine checks?

First make the checks listed below to isolate the majority of engine problems.

How do you check the spark?

Check spark whenever engine will not start. If engine will not crank, follow diagnosing procedure on page 25-4. Remove ignition cable from spark plug and install adaptor or ordinary paper clip. Hold approximately 1/4 inch away from grounded engine shrouding while cranking the engine.

What does it mean if there is no spark at the adaptor or a weak spark?

If there is no spark at the adaptor or a weak spark, the trouble is in the electrical system. If the battery and spark plug are good and all electrical connections are tight, the trouble most likely is in the breaker points and condenser. Clean or replace points and adjust gap. If breaker points are burned, replace the condenser also.

What does it mean if there is good spark between the adaptor and the grounded surface?

If there is good spark between the adaptor and the grounded surface, the problem is in the fuel-air system. If gas tank is full, check shut-off valve on sediment bowl and gas lines to carburetor to be certain gas is getting to carburetor. Open carburetor valves as instructed in Section 30, Group 10. Connect high tension wire to spark plug and crank engine. Choke as necessary.

How do you perform a compression test when the engine is operable in the tractor?

When the engine is operable in the tractor, check compression as follows:

Depress clutch-brake pedal and set parking brake. Be sure oil in crankcase is at proper level and battery is properly charged.
Be sure tractor drives are all disengaged. Run engine until warm, then stop the engine.
Remove spark plug. Also remove air filter for most accurate test.
Set throttle and choke valves in wide open position by raising throttle lever all the way and lowering choke lever.
Install compression gauge in cylinder. Follow manufacturer’s recommendations for installing and reading compression tester.

What compression readings can you expect for an engine in top operating condition?

An engine in top operating condition will read 60 to 110 psi when engine is cranked approximately 1000 rpm.

What does a compression test above 110 psi indicate?

A compression test above 110 psi, indicates excessive deposits in the combustion chamber or on the piston.

What does a reading lower than 60 psi indicate?

A reading lower than 60 psi indicates leakage at the cylinder head gasket, piston rings or valves. Engine should be reconditioned if compression falls below 60 psi.

How do you determine whether the rings or the valves are at fault?

To determine whether the rings or the valves are at fault, pour about one tablespoonful of heavy oil into the spark plug hole. Crank the engine several revolutions to spread the oil and repeat the compression test. The oil will temporarily seal leakage around the piston rings. If the same approximate compression reading is obtained, the rings are satisfactory, but the valves are leaking or the piston is damaged. If the compression has increased considerably over the original readings, there is leakage past the rings.

How do you perform a crankcase vacuum test?

Connect water U-tube manometer to oil filler hole in cylinder block. Tester must hang vertical as shown. Start and run engine at 1200-1700 rpm. Allow engine to warm up and observe reading on scale. Follow manufacturer’s recommendations for installation, testing and compensation for the effect of altitude on the gauge reading.

What is the proper crankcase vacuum for the HH100 Engine?

Proper crankcase vacuum for the HH100 Engine is 7 inches to 12 inches water column.

What does a crankcase vacuum reading lower than indicated mean?

A crankcase vacuum reading lower than indicated above is most likely due to a leaking breather valve or improperly assembled breather. Carefully reassemble breather part, as shown. A low vacuum reading may also be caused by leaky valves, engine blow-by or worn oil seals.

What does it mean if the crankcase is found to be pressurized rather than having a vacuum?

If the crankcase is found to be pressurized rather than having a vacuum, the breather filter may be plugged. Engines with zero vacuum or pressurized crankcase will likely be pumping oil into the combustion chamber or out the breather or oil seals. This can be detected by watching for excessive exhaust smoke, engine overheating or oil leakage outside the engine.

What do you do if the engine will not crank?

Transaxle not in neutral: Place shift lever in neutral position.
Battery discharged or defective: Check battery condition. Replace battery if necessary.
Neutral- start switch and bracket loose or not properly adjusted: Tighten and/ or adjust bracket and switch.
PTO drive engaged: Disengage clutch.
Defective safety switch(es): Replace switch (es).
Loose motor- generator belt: Adjust belt tension.
Broken motor- generator sheave: Replace motor- generator sheave.
Defective solenoid: Replace solenoid.
Loose electrical connections: Tighten connections firmly.
Motor- generator malfunction: Check condition of motor-generator. Repair or replace if necessary.
Engine seized: Check engine condition.

What do you do if the engine cranks but will not start?

Empty fuel tank: Fill fuel tank.
Restricted fuel tank vent: Replace cap or gauge assembly.
Fuel shut- off valve closed (valve below fuel tank): Open shut – off.
Clogged, restricted or air lock in fuel line: Clean and bleed line. Replace line if necessary.
Breaker points worn or pitted: Check condition. Replace if necessary.
Spark plug fouled or pitted: Check condition of plug. Clean and regap. Replace if necessary.
Incorrect spark plug: Install proper spark plug.
Battery not fully charged: Charge battery and check condition. Replace battery if necessary.
Loose electrical connections: Tighten connections firmly.
Wire leads not properly connected: Connect wire leads to their respective terminal.
High speed and idle mixture needles not properly adjusted: Adjust carburetor.
Faulty condenser: Replace condenser.
Defective ignition coil: Replace coil.
Dirt in fuel system: Remove fuel system and clean dirt and water from system. Install new gaskets. Install carburetor kit if necessary.
Frayed wire(s) causing ground(s): Repair wire(s ), replace if necessary.
Valve (s) open (stem s sticking in guide): Free valve. Clean guide and valve stem if necessary.

What do you do if the engine starts hard?

Spark plug pitted or fouled: Check condition of plug. Clean and regap. Replace if necessary.
Breaker points worn, pitted or out of adjustment: Check breaker points condition. Clean and regap. Replace breaker points if necessary.
High tension wire shorted: Replace wire.
High tension wire loose at spark plug or coil: Check spark plug connection and install wire properly in coil.
Loose electrical connections: Check connections and tighten leads firmly.
Restricted fuel tank vent: Replace filler cap or cap gauge assembly.
Clogged fuel line or air lock: Clean and bleed line. Replace line if necessary.
Broken choke cable: Replace and adjust cable properly.
Throttle cable not properly adjusted: Check cable at control and governor assembly and adjust properly.
Dirt or water in fuel system: Remove fuel system and clean dirt and water from system. Install new gaskets. Install carburetor kit if necessary.
High speed and idle mixture needles not properly adjusted: Adjust needles properly.
Wrong valve clearance: Check and adjust valve clearance.
Bad head gasket: Replace gasket and torque cylinder head properly.
Restricted exhaust system: Check exhaust system condition. Replace muffler if necessary.
Low compression: Check compression and service engine accordingly.
Valve(s) open (stem sticking in guide): Free valve. Clean valve stem and guide if necessary.

What do you do if the engine starts but fails to keep running?

Restricted fuel tank vent: Replace fuel cap or cap gauge assembly.
High speed and idle mixture needles not properly adjusted: Adjust needles properly.
Broken choke cable: Replace and adjust cable properly.
Dirt or water in fuel system: Remove fuel system and clean dirt and water from system. Install new gaskets. Install carburetor kit if necessary.
Carburetor float not properly adjusted or leaky float: Check float condition adjust float. Install new float and adjust if necessary.
High tension wire loose at spark plug or coil: Check spark plug connection and install wire properly in coil.
High tension wire shorted: Replace wire.
Breaker points not properly adjusted: Clean and regap. Replace breaker points if necessary.
Loose connections: Check and tighten wires properly.
Defective head gasket: Replace head gasket and torque cylinder head properly.
Faulty condenser: Check condenser. Replace if necessary.
Excessive engine load (lugging engine): Reduce engine load.

What do you do if the engine runs but misses?

High tension wire loose from spark plug or coil: Check spark plug connection and install wire properly in coil.
Breaker points out of adjustment or worn and pitted: Clean and adjust. Replace points if necessary.
Spark plug fouled or pitted, incorrect gap: Clean and regap plug. Replace plug if necessary.
Incorrect spark plug: Install proper plug.
Loose electrical connections: Tighten connections.
Carburetor float not properly adjusted or hole in float: Check condition of float. Adjust float to proper position. Replace leaky float.
Dirt or water In fuel system: Remove fuel system and clean dirt and water from system. Install new gaskets. Install carburetor kit if necessary.
Wrong valve clearance: Check valve clearance and valve condition. Repair valve as necessary.
Faulty coil: Check coil condition. Replace coil if necessary.

What do you do if the engine misses under load?

High speed and idle mixture needles not properly adjusted: Adjust needles.
Spark plug fouled or pitted, incorrect gap: Check spark plug condition. Clean and regap. Replace spark plug if necessary.
Incorrect spark plug: Install proper spark plug.
Breaker points out of adjustment or worn and pitted: Clean and adjust. Replace points if necessary.
Ignition out of time: Set engine timing.
Dirt or water in fuel system: Remove fuel system and clean dirt and water from system. Install new gaskets. Install carburetor kit if necessary.
Old fuel: Drain system and fill fuel tank with fresh fuel.
Linkage misaligned (throttle arm to governor arm): Straighten linkage to prevent binding.

What do you do if the engine will not idle?

Idle speed too low: Adjust idle screw.
High speed and idle mixture needles not properly adjusted: Adjust needles properly.
Dirt or water in fuel system: Remove fuel system and clean dirt and water from system. Install new gaskets. Install carburetor kit if necessary.
Restricted fuel tank: Replace filler cap or cap gauge assembly.
Spark plug fouled or pitted, incorrect gap: Check spark plug condition. Clean and regap. Replace spark plug if necessary.
Wrong valve clearance: Check valve clearance and valve condition. Service valve(s) as necessary.
Low engine compression: Check compression.

What do you do if the engine misses when advancing throttle?

Cold engine: Choke engine before advancing throttle.
High speed and idle mixture needles not properly adjusted: Adjust needles.
Spark plug fouled or pitted, incorrect gap: Check spark plug condition. Clean and regap. Replace spark plug if necessary.
Linkage misaligned (throttle arm to governor): Straighten linkage to prevent binding.

What do you do if the engine loses power?

Crankcase low on oil: Fill crankcase to proper level. Change oil if tractor has been operated 8 hours since last oil change.
Engine shrouding plugged: Remove shrouding and clean engine fins and inside of shrouding.
Excessive engine Load: Reduce engine load by shifting transmission in lower gear and/or by moving variable speed control lever back.
Restricted air filter: Clean and check air filter element condition. Replace filter if necessary.
Dirt or water in fuel system: Remove fuel system and clean dirt and water from system. Install new gaskets. Install carburetor kit If necessary.
High speed and idle mixture needles not properly adjusted: Adjust needles properly.
Spark plug fouled or pitted, incorrect gap: Check spark plug condition. Clean and regap. Replace spark plug if necessary.
Too much oil in crankcase: Drain oil and refill crankcase with proper amount of crankcase lubricant.
Low engine compression: Check compression. Repair and replace parts as necessary. Torque head bolts.
Worn cylinder bore: Check cylinder condition. Repair as necessary.

What do you do if the engine overheats?

Dirty or plugged shrouding and engine fins: Remove shrouding and clean engine fins and shrouding.
High speed and idle mixture needles not properly adjusted: Adjust needles properly.
Too much oil in crankcase: Drain oil and fill crankcase with proper amount of crankcase lubricant.
Worn valve stem and/or guides: Check condition of valve stems and guides. Replace valves and guides if necessary.
Crankcase low on oil: Fill crankcase to proper level. Change oil if tractor has been operated 8 hours since last oil change.
Excessive engine load: Reduce work load by shifting transmission in lower gear and/ or by moving variable speed control lever back.
Faulty breather causing low crank case vacuum: Clean breather assembly. Replace parts as necessary.

What do you do if the engine knocks?

Engine out of time: Time ignition.
Old fuel: Drain fuel tank and refill with good grade of regular gasoline.
Excessive engine load: Reduce engine load by shifting transmission in lower gear and/or by moving variable-speed control lever back.
Crankcase low on oil: Fill crankcase to proper level. Change oil if tractor has been operated 8 hours since last oil change.

What do you do if the engine backfires?

High speed and idle mixture needles not properly adjusted: Adjust needles properly.
Loose cylinder head or blown head gasket: Torque head bolts. Replace head gasket lf necessary.
Intake valve sticking in guide: Free valve stem in guide.
Ignition out of time: Set engine timing.

What do you do if the engine is low on power at high speed?

Restricted air filter: Clean and check air filter element condition. Replace filter if necessary.
Spark plug fouled or pitted, incorrect gap: Check spark plug condition. Clean and regap. Replace spark plug if necessary.
Incorrect spark plug: Install correct plug.
Restricted exhaust: Repair and clean muffler. Replace muffler if necessary.
Breaker points out of adjustment, worn and pitted: Clean and adjust. Replace points if necessary.
Clogged fuel line or air lock: Clean and bleed air from fuel line. Replace fuel line if necessary.
Broken choke cable: Replace cable and adjust choke valve to correspond with control on panel.
Clogged breather assembly: Clean breather assembly. Install new parts as necessary.
Defective ignition coil: Check coil and replace coil if necessary.

What do you do if the engine does not maintain constant speed (surges)?

High speed and idle mixture needles not properly adjusted: Adjust needles properly.
Spark plug gap incorrect: Check spark plug condition. Clean and regap spark plug. Install new spark plug if necessary.
Throttle to governor linkage not properly assembled: Assemble linkage correctly.
Breaker points out of adjustment, worn or pitted: Clean and adjust. Replace points if necessary.
Dirt or water in fuel system: Remove fuel system and clean dirt and water from system. Install new gaskets. Install carburetor kit if necessary.

What do you do if the engine uses an excessive amount of oil?

Clogged breather assembly: Clean breather assembly. Replace parts as necessary.
Breather not assembled properly: Assemble breather properly.
Worn or broken piston rings: Install new rings.
Worn cylinder bore: Recondition cylinder. Replace parts as necessary.
Clogged oil holes in piston: Clean piston and check piston condition. Install new parts as necessary.
Wrong size piston rings: Install proper rings.
Worn valve stems and/ or valve guides: Check condition of valve stems and guides. Replace valves and guides if necessary.
Incorrect oil viscosity: Drain crankcase and fill with crankcase oil of proper viscosity.
Faulty breather causing low crankcase vacuum: Check crankcase vacuum. Replace parts as necessary.

What causes vertical scratches across the faces of piston rings?

Vertical scratches across the faces of piston rings are the result of an abrasive entering the engine. Abrasives may be airborne, may have been left in during overhaul or are loose lead and carbon deposits.

What should you do if you find scratches on the piston rings?

Always check and correct the source of abrasives because the life of a new set of rings will be short otherwise.

What are some common causes of abrasives in the engine?

Common causes for abrasives in the engine are:

Damaged, collapsed, or improperly installed air filter
Loose connection or damaged gasket between air filter and carburetor
Air leak around carburetor to block gasket
Air leakage around throttle shaft
Failure to properly clean cylinder bore

What can cause worn oil rings?

Cylinder wall contact after much use and possible entry of abrasives. Compression rings will also be worn thin.

What are the characteristics of badly worn oil rings?

Badly worn oil rings will have: 1. Extra large gap, 2. Low tension.

How should you clean pistons?

Remove deposits from piston surfaces and clean gum and varnish from the piston skirt. Do not use a caustic cleaning solution or a wire brush to clean pistons. Be sure the oil ring holes are clean. Clean carbon from piston ring grooves with a ring groove cleaner. If a cleaning tool is not available, break an old ring and use it to clean grooves.

How do you check ring grooves for excessive wear?

Check ring grooves for excessive wear by inserting a new ring in the proper groove at several points around the piston. Measure clearance between ring and groove with a feeler gauge. Refer to “Specifications” for ring groove side clearance. Replace piston having ring clearance beyond wear limits.

What else should you inspect on a piston?

Inspect piston for fractures at the ring lands, skirts and ring bosses and for rough or scored skirts. Analyze the condition of the piston by studying the illustrations. Replace faulty pistons.

How do you measure piston pin to piston clearance?

Measure piston pin to piston clearance with a micrometer. Ream out piston and rod and install oversize piston pins when necessary. See “Specifications”. Oversize piston pins are available for service.

How do you check the piston to cylinder bore clearance?

Check the piston to cylinder bore clearance by measuring the piston and bore diameters. Measure the outside diameter of the piston with a micrometer at the centerline of the piston pin bore and at 90° to the pin bore axis.

When should you install an oversize piston and rings?

If cylinder to bore clearance is more than 0.005 inch, the cylinder will have to be rebored and oversize piston and rings installed. Oversize pistons and rings are available in 0.010 inch and 0.020 inch sizes for service.

What can cause the piston top land to burn?

Detonation is a form of abnormal combustion causing excessive temperature and pressure in the combustion chamber. Commonly called carbon knock, spark knock or timing knock, detonation occurs as compressed air-fuel mixture ignites spontaneously to interrupt the normal ignition flame front.

What should you check and correct when detonation is detected?

When detonation is detected, check and correct the following possible causes:

Lean fuel mixtures
Low octane fuels
Over-advanced ignition timing
Engine lugging
Build-up of carbon deposits on piston and cylinder head causing excessive compression
Wrong cylinder head or milling of head increasing compression ratio

What is pre-ignition?

Pre-ignition is the igniting of the fuel-air mixture prior to the regular ignition spark. Pre-ignition causes severe internal shock resulting in pings, vibration, detonation and power loss. Severe damage to piston, rings and valves result from pre-ignition.

What should you check and correct when pre-ignition is suspected?

When pre-ignition is suspected and detected, check and correct the following possible causes:

Internal carbon deposits which remain incandescent
Incorrect spark plug (high heat range)
Broken ceramic in spark plug
Sharp edges on valves or elsewhere in the combustion chamber

What can cause a diagonal piston wear pattern?

Check rod and piston alignment when a piston shows a diagonal wear pattern extending across the skirt of the piston. Contact with cylinder wall shows on bottom of skirt at left and ring lands on the right.

What else can cause improper ring contact with the cylinder wall?

A cylinder bored at an angle to the crankshaft could also cause improper ring contact with the cylinder wall. This condition can cause: 1. Rapid piston wear, 2. Uneven piston wear, 3. Excessive oil consumption.

What can cause piston pin lock damage?

Pin locks loosen or break due to: 1. Rod misalignment, 2. Excessive crankshaft end play, 3. Crank pin taper, 4. Weak pin locks, 5. Pin locks incorrectly installed.

What can inertia cause?

Inertia can cause a lock or loose object inside the piston pin to beat out the piston and cylinder in the pin boss area. Damage to both piston and cylinder occurs.

How should you inspect the crankshaft?

Wipe crankshaft dry and check general condition. Clean up threads on end of shaft if necessary. If crankshaft journal indicates wear beyond specified limits or if journal is scored, replace crankshaft. Replacement crankshafts have crankshaft gear, pin and bearings assembled to crankshaft. New bearing cups are also provided and should be used when installing new crankshaft assembly.

What should you check the connecting rod and cap for?

Check rod and cap for signs of bending, cracking, or unusual wear patterns.

What can lack of or improper lubrication cause?

Lack of lubrication or improper lubrication can cause the connecting rod and cap to seize to the crankshaft and may even cause rod particles to become embedded in the hardened steel crankshaft. When the rod and cap seize to the crankshaft, the connecting rod and piston may both break with shattering force causing other interior damage. When this happens, inspect block carefully for cracks and breakage before rebuilding engine.

What can cause crankshaft and connecting rod damage?

Crankshaft and connecting rod damage can result from:

Engine run low on oil or without oil
Oil slinger broken off bearing cap
Oil hole in connecting rod plugged with sludge
Oil not changed regularly
Bearing cap installed incorrectly

What should you note about the rod and cap bearing area?

Note especially the condition of the rod and cap bearing area. Evidence of score marks on these areas indicates impurities in the oil or engine run without oil. Replace rod showing scratch marks or deep scores in the bearing area. Bent rods can be straightened with a rod aligner. Be sure slinger on rod cap is intact – not cracked, bent or chipped. New rods and caps are available only as a matched set for service. If either is damaged, both must be replaced.

What measurements should you take when inspecting the connecting rod and cap?

Measure fit of rod and cap to crankshaft bearing. Also measure fit of piston pin in piston and rod. See “Specifications”.

How do you inspect the block for cracks?

After thoroughly cleaning the block, check it for cracks. Cracks not visible to the naked eye may be detected by coating the suspected area with a mixture of 25 percent kerosene and 75 percent light engine oil. Wipe the part dry and immediately apply a coating of zinc oxide dissolved in wood alcohol. If a crack is present, the coating will become discolored at the defective area. Replace the block if cracked.

How do you measure cylinder bore?

Use a telescoping gauge and micrometer to measure bore in two places, at top and bottom of ring travel area. Out-of-round dimension is the difference between dimensions A and B. Cylinder wall taper is the difference between dimension A at the top and dimension A at the bottom of cylinder bore. See “Specifications,” for wear tolerance.

What is the purpose of deglazing a cylinder bore?

Deglazing is not intended to remove any appreciable amount of metal from the bore, but rather to clean up and provide the proper surface. A proper bore surface feels smooth, but has a cross-hatch pattern of micro-scratches which can be seen. This finish will allow the new rings to conform to the cylinder bore. This finish also retains a small film of oil to provide ring lubrication for the ring surface and prevents scoring.

How do you deglaze a cylinder bore?

Use a deglazing tool to break glaze. Follow manufacturer’s recommendations. A 200-280 grit tool is generally preferred for deglazing. A cross-hatch pattern of approximately 45° should be obtained while operating the tool vertically during deglazing.

How do you bore a cylinder block?

If block is to be bored, clean and dry block thoroughly. Boring can be done by machining at a reliable automotive repair shop or by electric drill and boring tool. Reboring to 0.010-inch oversize to accommodate oversize piston and rings can also be done with a coarse stone in the deglazing tool and refinishing with finer grit stones. If block is jigged in a drill press for reboring, be sure boring tool and block are in true alignment.

How do you inspect the camshaft?

Check camshaft for broken or cracked gear teeth. Check operation of EZEE – start assembly making sure all parts are intact and operate freely. Check condition of flyweight spring. If camshaft needs attention, see Group 40 for camshaft and governor service.

How do you inspect main bearings?

Main bearings turn in an oil mist and will not normally require replacing. Check for unusual signs of wear such as race turning with bearing or bearing deflection caused by excessive engine lugging. Refer to “Bearing Analysis”.

What does bearing analysis entail?

The cause of bearing failure must be identified and understood in order to apply the proper corrective measures.

What does longitudinal crack and pitting in the bearing cup indicate?

The longitudinal crack and pitting in this bearing cup was caused by improper fit of the cup in its housing. The cup did not turn, but there was a hollow, worn spot in the housing underneath the damaged areas, which caused the cup to flex and become damaged as shown.

What causes chipping of roller bearings?

Chipping of roller bearings is caused by improper crankshaft end play adjustment.

How do you install the crankshaft?

Bolt bearing cup (thin edge inward) and bearing retainer to engine block. Tighten cap screws only finger tight because this is only a temporary installation. Place engine on its side on blocks high enough to allow tapered end of crankshaft to extend freely when crankshaft is installed in block.

How do you assemble the connecting rod and piston?

Support connecting rod in a bench vise and slip piston down over connecting rod. Coat piston pin with a light film of oil. Insert piston pin through piston bore and connecting rod and on into opposite piston pin bore. A properly fitted piston pin can be pressed into position with hand pressure. Install retainer in both ends of piston pin bore, making sure that snap rings are securely seated in retainer grooves in piston bore. Use a rod aligner to check rod and piston alignment. Follow manufacturer’s recommendations for checking and correcting alignment.

How do you check piston ring end gap?

How do you adjust minor increases in ring gap clearance?

Minor increase in gap clearance can be made by filing the ends of the ring but this must be done accurately on equipment made for this purpose. Too much end clearance indicates that wrong rings are being used or cylinder is bored too large.

How do you install rings on the piston?

After checking ring side clearance and end gap, use ring expander to position rings exactly as shown. Notice the ring expander: The narrow expander is used behind the second compression ring and the wide expander is used behind the oil ring. The standard ring set has the narrow expander behind the second compression ring as shown. 0.010 and 0.020 – inch oversize ring sets have the wide expander behind the oil ring as shown. When installing the rings, note the marks on the first and second ring indicating the top of the ring.

How should piston ring gaps be positioned?

Stagger the piston ring gaps by moving each ring until the gaps are out of alignment as much as possible to prevent compression loss.

How do you install a connecting rod assembly?

Clean new connecting rod bearing surfaces with a clean cloth. New rods are coated with lead which will slightly oxidize in storage. It is important that this oxidation be removed before installation. Coat piston, rod bearing surface and rings generously with light oil and insert complete assembly into cylinder bore using ring compressor. Be sure match marks on connecting rod and rod cap are aligned and face out of the cylinder toward the PTO end of crankshaft.

How do you attach the rod to the crankshaft?

Install new lock nuts on connecting rod bolts. Refer to “Specifications,” for connecting rod lock nut torque and torque nuts accordingly. Use a thin wall socket to tighten connecting rod lock nuts. Using the wrong tools to tighten cap will cause misalignment of bearing cap and bearing damage. After initial torque, use a drift and a hammer (13 oz.) and strike the rod bearing cap above each lock nut. This will seat the cap releasing some torque on the lock nuts, Retorque lock nuts to specifications.

How do you install tappets and the camshaft?

Install lifters in guides. It is good practice to reinstall lifter in same guide from which it was removed. Install camshaft. Match chamfered gear tooth on crankshaft gear with mark and hobbing hole on camshaft gear. Install governor spool on governor gear shaft.

How do you install the cylinder cover?

Apply oil to crankshaft and camshaft bearings. Install new cylinder cover gasket on cylinder block. Use dowels in cylinder block to keep gasket positioned. Remove breaker points and push rod or remove box cover and hold breaker points open. Move breaker point push rod toward points to prevent damage to push rod when cylinder cover is installed. Turn governor rod clockwise (facing end of shaft) and install cylinder cover. Refer to “Torque Chart,” in Section 10 for cylinder cover bolt torque and tighten bolts accordingly.

How do you check crankshaft end clearance?

Invert engine. PTO end of crankshaft must extend freely. Turn the crankshaft until the piston is at T.D.C. Tighten bearing retainer screws lightly and tap the flywheel end of the crankshaft lightly with a mallet to seat bearing. Remove three screws from bearing retainer. Insert a feeler gauge between the bearing retainer and machined surface of cylinder block, and record the reading. If space does not exist between the retainer and the machined gasket surface to allow insertion of the feeler gauge, use a 0.010-inch steel spacer. Place steel spacer between bearing cup and inside surface of the retainer. More than one may be used if required. After determining the gap between the cover and the machined surface on cylinder block, determine the shim thickness as follows to obtain the required 0.002-0.003-inch crankshaft end play:

0.003-inch – clearance between cover and cylinder
+0.003-inch – required end play
0.006-inch – shim thickness required
+ 0.003-inch – add half of shim thickness required to compensate for gasket compression
0.009-inch – use shim gaskets that total this amount. In this case, using two 0.004 to 0.005-inch thick gaskets would allow correct crankshaft end play. Secure bearing retainer with three cap screws with lock washers. Refer to “Specifications,” for correct torque and torque screws accordingly.

How do you install seals?

Install oil seal with lip facing inward. Use oil seal sleeve tool to prevent seal damage. Tap seal in place with a piece of tubing. Seal must be square in seal bore and pressed in to a distance of flush or 0.025 inch beyond flush of cylinder cover and bearing retainer exterior. Install blower housing baffle. See “Torque Chart” in Section 10 and tighten baffle bolts accordingly.

How do you install the flywheel?

Place key in crankshaft keyway. Install flywheel washer and nut. Use flywheel tool to hold flywheel from rotating while torquing nut. Refer to “Specifications,” for flywheel nut torque and torque nut accordingly.

How do you install shrouding?

Install blower housing, cylinder baffle, head baffle and motor-generator brackets. Bolt sheave and screen to flywheel. Tighten screws firmly. Install motor-generator drive belt and belt guard. Refer to Section 40 for proper belt tension. Note position of 3/16 x 3/8-inch cap screw.

How do you install external components?

Install coil, condenser, and all external components. Attach wires to their respective terminals. Be sure breaker point push rod is in place and was not damaged during cylinder cover installation. Also inspect, clean and adjust breaker points if necessary. See Section 40. Refer to Group 40 for proper carburetor and governor assembly and adjustment.

How do you remove camshaft and tappets?

Remove engine and all component parts (excluding connecting rod and piston assembly and crankshaft). Refer to Groups 30 and 35 for detailed disassembly. Turn the crankshaft until the piston is at T.D.C. Remove governor spool, camshaft and tappets. Mark tappets “EX” and “I” so they will be installed in same guide during reassembly.

How do you remove the governor gear?

Remove the retaining ring and the governor gear.

How do you remove the governor rod?

Loosen governor arm clamp screw and remove governor lever assembly. Remove paint from governor rod. Remove retaining ring and governor rod with lever.

How do you inspect the camshaft?

Wash governor parts in a safe cleaning solvent and wipe parts dry. Check camshaft for cracked, worn or broken gear teeth. Check operation of camshaft weights, making sure all parts are intact and operate freely. Check camshaft bearings and lobes with a micrometer. Refer to “Specifications,” for tolerances. The breaker cam normally does not show any wear; therefore, the cam should never require replacing.

How do you inspect the governor gear?

The governor gear assembly will not normally show much wear. Be sure weights operate freely and that gears and teeth are in good condition. Replace governor gear assembly if necessary. Check hole in closed end or spool. The hole is for lubrication and must be kept open and clean.

How do you inspect the governor shaft?

The governor shaft is replaceable. If shaft shows excessive wear or damage, replace shaft. Remove the governor shaft by threading the shaft with a 1/4-28 die. Place a spacer or number of washers on the shaft and turn on a nut. By tightening the nut against the washers, the shaft will be pulled from the cylinder.

How do you inspect the governor rod?

Check lever on governor rod. Lever must be tight on governor rod for best governor control of engine. Replace assembly if wear is noticeable.

How do you install the governor shaft?

Position the governor gear shaft over the opening in the cylinder block and tap lightly with a hammer to start shaft. Place block on press bed and press shaft into the cylinder block until 1 inch of the shaft protrudes from the machined surface to the top of the governor shaft.

How do you replace the governor rod bearing?

The cylinder cover used in the engine for 112 Tractors (-5644) has a bearing for the governor rod (22, Figure 4). This bearing can be replaced when excessive wear is noticed. The cylinder cover used in the engine for 112 Tractors (5645- ) does not have a replaceable bearing in the governor rod hole. However, the surface will normally not show much wear.

How do you install the governor gear and spool?

Install governor gear assembly on governor shaft and install retaining ring. Place governor spool on governor gear shaft. NOTE: Hole in end of spool must be opened and spool must operate freely on governor shaft.

How do you install the breaker cam on the camshaft?

Install breaker cam with notch toward camshaft gear. Align notch with tab on camshaft.

How do you install tappets and the camshaft?

Install tappets in the same guides from which they were removed during disassembly. Install camshaft, matching chamfered tooth on crankshaft gear with mark and hobbing hole on camshaft gear.

How do you install the governor rod and lever?

Install spacer on governor rod. Oil governor rod and install rod in cylinder cover. Secure rod with retaining ring. Assemble lever, clamp and spring plate. Slide assembly on governor rod as far as undercut permits. Tighten clamp screw firmly. Refer to Group 35 and reassemble the engine.

How do you connect the governor lever?

Connect governor spring to bottom hole of governor plate. Refer to Group 35 and install all external components. Connect governor link and adjust as instructed.

How do you adjust governor speed?

Hold control lever to right with socket or wedge device. Loosen lever screw. Apply pressure on right side of governor arm facing front of tractor. Tighten lever screw firmly. Remove wedge.

How do you adjust governor stop screw?

Before attaching the remote speed control (cable and conduit) set the engine for maximum rpm. Set the high speed (3700-3800 rpm) with the engine running. Loosen lock nut on governor stop screw. Move top of control lever for remote to the right (facing front of engine), until lower end strikes the stop screw. Turn in (clockwise) to decrease maximum rpm. Turn out (counterclockwise) to increase maximum rpm. Tachometer should not exceed 3800 rpm. Be sure all drives are disengaged when setting engine speed. When adjustment is obtained, tighten lock nut on governor stop screw.

How do you adjust the cable and conduit?

Insert cable end in lower hole (large hole) of control lever. Move throttle lever on dash until distance between top of lever and top of slot is 1/4 inch. Move governor lever until lower end of lever strikes governor stop screw. Tighten conduit clamp firmly.

What should you do after the engine is assembled and installed in the tractor?

After the engine is assembled and installed in the tractor, follow the engine break-in procedure given in Section 10.

How do you diagnose a hard engine start?

Engine flooded: Lower choke control.
Restricted gas tank vent: Replace cap or cap gauge assembly.
High speed and idle mixture needles not properly adjusted: Adjust needles properly.
Fuel inlet needle sticking to seat: Install new needle and seat assembly.
Choke cable loose in control swivel: Position lever and choke valve and tighten cable in swivel.
Fuel shut-off valve closed: Open valve.
Water, rust or stale fuel in gas tank: Remove tank and flush. Refill tank with fresh fuel.
Gummed carburetor: Clean carburetor. Install new carburetor kit.
Air lock in fuel line: Remove fuel line at carburetor and bleed fuel line.
Restricted air filter element: Clean element. Check condition. Replace element if necessary.

How do you diagnose engine stalling?

High speed and idle mixture needles not properly adjusted: Adjust needles properly.
Dirt, water or ice in fuel system: Remove components and clean. Replace parts as necessary.
Restricted gas tank vent: Replace cap or cap gauge assembly.
Restricted fuel line: Install new fuel line.
Air lock in fuel line: Remove fuel line at carburetor and bleed fuel line.
Restricted air filter element: Clean element. Check condition. Replace element if necessary.

How do you diagnose a rough idle?

High speed and idle mixture needles not properly adjusted: Adjust needles properly.
Incorrect float setting: Adjust float.
Restricted air filter element: Clean element. Check condition. Replace element if necessary.
Dirt, water or ice in fuel system: Remove components and clean. Replace parts as necessary.

How do you diagnose poor acceleration?

High speed and idle mixture needles not properly adjusted: Adjust needles properly.
Restricted air filter element: Clean element. Check condition. Replace element if necessary.
110 Tractors: Arm loose on governor cross shaft. Replace cross shaft assembly.
112 Tractors: Check condition of governor spool. Clean hole in each end of spool. Replace spool if necessary.
Throttle cable slipping in control swivel: Adjust linkage and tighten cable in swivel.
Sticky fuel inlet needle: Replace needle and seat assembly.
Dirty or damaged high speed mixture needle: Replace damaged needle.
112 Tractors: Dirt or paint on throttle return spring. Clean spring.

How do you diagnose engine surging?

High speed and idle mixture needles not properly adjusted: Adjust needles properly.
112 Tractors: Dirt or paint on throttle return spring. Clean spring.
Too low on fuel: Refill fuel tank.

How do you diagnose flooding or leaking carburetor?

Sticky fuel inlet needle: Replace needle and seat assembly.
Incorrect float setting: Adjust float to proper level.
Leaking float: Replace float and adjust to proper level.

How do you diagnose gas dripping from the carburetor?

Loose fuel fitting: Tighten fitting. Install new fitting if necessary.
Fuel line loose on fuel fitting: Relocate hose clamp on fuel line. Install new fuel line if necessary.
112 Tractors: Bowl drain leaking. Push up and release bowl drain several times. Replace bowl drain assembly if necessary.

How do you diagnose gas drips at the sediment bowl?

Loose shut-off valve: Tighten needle valve retaining nut.
Loose bowl nut: Replace gasket and secure bowl nut.

How do you diagnose no fuel in the sediment bowl?

Shut – off valve closed: Open valve.
Empty fuel tank: Fill tank.
Filter screen clogged: Clean screen. Replace screen if necessary.

How do you repair the carburetor?

When diagnosis indicates the carburetor should be cleaned, disassemble the carburetor before placing it in the cleaning solution to make sure the solution reaches all surfaces and parts. Always install all the parts in the repair kit when the carburetor needs servicing. Always install new gaskets whenever the carburetor is disassembled even though no other new parts are installed.

How do you disassemble the carburetor?

Remove carburetor from engine and remove air cleaner base.
Remove fuel bowl, float needle and needle seat.
Remove high speed and idle mixture needles.
Remove screw holding throttle valve. Remove valve and shaft from carburetor housing.
Remove choke valve, choke shaft retaining ball and spring.

What is the caution regarding disassembling the carburetor?

Place a rag over end of choke shaft opposite choke shaft lever to prevent retaining ball from flying out when shaft is removed.

How do you clean the carburetor?

Clean all parts in a carburetor cleaning solvent. Never clean holes or passages with small drill bits or wire, as a slight enlargement or burring of these holes will change the performance of the carburetor. No method of cleaning other than solvent should be used. Place carburetor parts in a suitable basket and immerse basket in a container of carburetor cleaning solution. Agitating the basket up and down in the solution will speed up action of the solvent and aid in dissolving deposits in small drilled passages. Allow parts to remain in solution from one to two hours. Then remove and rinse with fresh cleaning solvent. Dry with compressed air, making sure all holes are open and free of carbon and dirt. Never use rags or waste paper to dry the parts. Any lint may plug jets of channels and affect operating efficiency of carburetor. Never use compressed air to clean a completely assembled carburetor. To do so may cause the float to collapse.

How do you inspect the carburetor?

Inspect float valve to be sure valve seat material or other debris is not adhering to tapered surface of valve. If any material appears on tapered surface, replace float valve and valve seat assembly.
Inspect seat assembly for wear or other damage. If valve seat is damaged in any way, replace valve seat assembly and float valve. Valves and seats are available only as matched sets and should never be interchanged.
For a positive leak test, immerse the float in hot water. Any leak can be detected at once by air bubbles escaping from the float. Do not attempt to repair the float if it leaks. Replace it.
Check float shaft and replace if worn.
Inspect tapered ends of needles. If a ring has been cut in the tapered surface of either because the needle has been turned too tightly against the seat, replace the needle. The seats for the high speed and idle mixture adjusting needles are an integral part of the carburetor body casting and therefore cannot be removed or replaced.
Inspect carburetor body casting and fuel bowl for cracks or damaged seating surface. Examine threaded holes for damaged threads. Check throttle and choke shaft bearing area in carburetor body for wear. Replace if worn or damaged.
Inspect jets for damaged or plugged holes. Replace if damaged.
Inspect throttle and choke shaft for excessive wear or damage in the bearing area.

How do you assemble the carburetor?

Replace all gaskets when carburetor is disassembled for service. Use new gasket between carburetor flange and cylinder block when installing carburetor on cylinder block. Install the carburetor repair kit whenever the carburetor is disassembled for service and parts show wear.

How do you install the throttle assembly?

Slip felt seal on throttle shaft and install throttle shaft and valve in carburetor body. Valve must be installed with tract mark “C” on side towards idle port, (R.H. side) when viewed from flange end. With screw loose, seat valve by tapping lightly with a small screwdriver. Hold in place while tightening screws.

How do you install the choke assembly?

Install spring, ball and choke shaft in carburetor body. Use a small blunt punch to push ball back when slipping end of choke shaft through carburetor body. Assemble choke valve as shown. The choke valve can be installed backwards and also at the wrong angle. Be sure moveable reed valve is toward inside of carburetor body and that loop of valve is angled toward inside of body. Tighten screws firmly.

How do you install the valve seat and valve?

The valve seat, valve and fiber washer are packaged together for service. Never replace one without replacing the other parts also. Screw valve seat assembly into carburetor housing. Insert valve with tapered end against valve seat.

How do you test the battery?

To determine whether the battery is capable of meeting requirements of the starting motor, it is necessary to duplicate operating conditions by subjecting the battery to a load test. To obtain a true test, the battery should be 75% charged or higher, determined by taking hydrometer readings.

What is the specific gravity for a battery in various stages of charge?

The table illustrates typical ranges of specific gravity for a battery in various stages of charge with respect to its ability to crank the engine at 80° F, with initial full-charge specific gravity at either 1.260 or 1.280:

1. 260 to 1.280 Specific Gravity 100% charged
1. 230 to 1.250 Specific Gravity 75% charged
1. 200 to 1.220 Specific Gravity 50% charged
1. 170 to 1.190 Specific Gravity 25% charged
1. 140 to 1.160 Specific Gravity Very little useful capacity
1. 110 to 1.130 Specific Gravity Discharged

What are the two methods of testing the battery capacity?

Battery electrolyte temperature should be at or near 80° F for these tests. Before making either of the two following tests, check electrolyte level in the battery and add water if necessary. If water is added, be sure it is thoroughly mixed with the underlying electrolyte by charging. Battery voltage should be 11.5 to 12.6 volts before cranking engine to determine battery condition. Refer to instructions supplied by test equipment manufacturer when using high rate test equipment.

The first method is by cranking the engine for 15 seconds with the starting motor and measuring the battery voltage. The voltage should not be less than 9.6 volts at the end of 15 seconds. If less than 9.5, replace the battery.
The second method is by using high rate discharge test equipment. The test consists of discharging the battery by means of a heavy-duty carbon pile at a rate of 3 times the ampere-hour capacity (24 ampere-hour battery used in both 110 and 112 Tractor). After 15 seconds, the battery voltage should not be less than 9.0 volts. If the battery fails to meet the load test, it indicates loss of capacity or internal short circuits. Any battery that passes the load test is a good battery and can be relied upon to fulfill the requirements of the starting motor under normal conditions.

How do you test the coil?

When coil failure is suspected, use an analyzer to test coil. The analyzer will also test the condenser and solenoid as well as checking voltage and amperage. See specifications for manufacturer and model of this test unit.

What tests should you follow the manufacturer’s recommendations to perform on the coil?

Coil power test
Coil high speed test
Coil surface insulation test
Coil continuity test
Coil ground test

How do you test the condenser?

The test unit can also be used to test the condenser. Follow the manufacturer’s recommendations to make the following condenser tests:

Capacity test
Leakage
Short
Series resistance test

How can you test the solenoid?

The solenoid (magnetic switch) used on 110 and 112 Tractors is a sealed unit and cannot be repaired. A simple test for proper operation can be made by using a battery. With a continuity tester and a battery of correct voltage, momentarily touch the jumper lead to the solenoid terminal. If the switch is in good condition, the plunger will snap in and close the main contacts. The continuity tester light should also light if the tester is so equipped. The test unit can also be used for testing solenoid continuity.

How do you test safety switches?

Neutral-start switch failure is sometimes the wrong diagnosis for a switch which needs only a simple adjustment to fix it.

How can you test the neutral-start switch?

Connect circuit test light leads to switch terminals and tester on battery terminals.
Push switch plunger down. If circuit tester light is on, switch is effective.

How do you test the compression of a spark plug?

Test the plug for compression leakage at the insulator seal. Apply a coating of light oil to the shoulder of the plug where the insulator projects through the shell, and to the top of the plug, where the center electrode and terminal project from the insulator. Test the spark plug under pressure, either by turning the engine over the compression stroke, or in a commercial tester. Disconnect the high-tension wire during the test. Leakage is indicated by air-bubbling through the oil. This test indicates compression leakage, replace plug.

What should you inspect if the motor-generator fails to crank properly?

If the motor-generator fails to crank properly, inspect the entire cranking circuit for loose or corroded connections and damaged wiring. If necessary, have the battery load tested to determine its condition. If the unit still fails to crank, wire around the solenoid with a jumper lead. If the unit now cranks, the solenoid or ignition switch is defective and should be replaced. If the unit fails to crank, the trouble can be attributed to the cranking motor or the motor-generator. Excessive friction in the engine may be caused from tight bearings, scored piston or cylinder or from clutch plates that are not properly disengaged.

What should you do if the unit fails to crank properly when the engine is known to be hot?

If the unit fails to crank properly when the engine is known to be hot and the rest of the cranking circuit is found to be satisfactory, the motor-generator should be removed for further checking. With the motor-generator removed from the engine, the armature should be checked for freedom of operation by turning the shaft. Tight, dirty or worn bearings, a bent armature shaft, or loose pole shoes may cause the armature to drag. If the armature does not turn freely, the motor must be disassembled. However, if the armature does operate freely, the motor should be given a no-load test. During this test, the motor is operated without the drive pinion connected to a load and the current draw and the armature speed noted.

How do you time the engine?

Kohler K181S engines have a timing sight hole. The K161S 7 h. p. engine has a timing hole, but it is not accessible when in the tractor. Time K161S engines used on early Model 110 Tractors and HH100 engines, used on 112 Tractors, by setting point gap with a feeler gauge. A timing light cannot be used on these engines. To use battery powered timing light, the PTO belt guard and right-hand side panel must be removed. Set breaker point gap approximately 0.020 inch with a feeler gauge. Then with the engine running between 1200 and 1800 rpm, adjust the points until “S” or “SP” or the first mark on the flywheel is centered in the sight hole. The first “S” or “SP” mark will appear 20° before top dead center. The second mark is top dead center and is stamped with “DC” or “T” below the mark. Be sure the engine is operating at 1000 rpm or faster when making this adjustment or the automatic advance and retard mechanism may shift timing and confuse the results.

How should you charge a battery?

The Prestolite 7 LU is a small battery with little space for expansion of the acid. Therefore, the battery is likely to overflow from (1) the heat of operating temperature or (2) to trapped air when filling. When first adding electrolyte, pour in only enough to cover the plates. Then, charge the battery at 7 amperes for 30 minutes or run the tractor for an hour. Check the acid level. Raising the battery temperature from room condition to over 100° F when charging will many times bring the acid level to the ring in the neck. If it is still below the ring, add enough acid, not water, to bring the level to the bottom of the ring. Do not bring the acid level up on or above the ring, only to the bottom of the ring. Advise customers to add water as recommended in the operator’s manual. A healthy battery will consume about one teaspoon of water per cell each month. During charging, the temperature of the electrolyte rises, causing it to expand. Hydrogen natural gas by-products carry tiny bubbles of electrolyte through the vents. These bubbles burst and the acid is deposited on top of the battery case, as well as elsewhere on the tractor. A minor accumulation immediately starts a weak drain of power. Remove the battery, clean it well (the tractor, too) with soda or ammonia and polish the battery terminals and cable ends. Charge the battery at a 4-ampere rate until a hydrometer reading of 1.250 is attained. The hydrometer reading must be taken at an electrolyte temperature of 80° F, or corrected to 80° F with a correcting-type hydrometer. If you cannot test electrolyte temperature, a reading of 1.230 after fully charging indicates that the battery is permanently damaged.

What cautions should be observed when handling batteries?

After the battery is activated, hydrogen and oxygen gases in the battery are very explosive. Therefore, it is necessary to keep open flames and sparks away from the battery. The regulator output must never exceed 14.2 to 14.5 volts. Regulators should adjust only by trained servicemen with proper equipment to check and set them.

What steps are included in proper battery servicing in the tractor?

Clean battery.
Inspect cables including ground connections.
Clean terminals.
Inspect hold-downs, tighten finger tight only.
Inspect case for leaks.
Make hydrometer test.
Add water if necessary; use caution to protect the tractor from acid damage.
Recharge battery if less than 75% charged.
Make load test.

How do you remove a battery?

To avoid injury from sparks or short circuit, disconnect the negative cable from the negative battery terminal first. Then remove the boot from the positive terminal and disconnect the positive cable from the positive terminal of the battery. Follow the reverse procedure when reconnecting cables to battery terminals. Wipe battery with a damp cloth. If terminals are corroded, use a stiff brush and wash with a solution of one part baking soda and four parts water. Keep vent plugs tight while washing. After washing, flush the battery with clear water. Then coat terminals with petroleum jelly or light grease to protect against corrosion. Be sure vent holes are open.

How do you install a solenoid?

Fasten solenoid to base with bolts, washers, and nuts and tighten firmly. It is important that leads are connected correctly. Refer to Group 5 for correct lead connections.

What should you check on ignition coils?

Ignition coils do not normally require any service. However, at the time of breaker point replacement, it is wise to visually inspect the coil for the following:

Check the top of coil for cracks or carbon tracks, either of which can cause current leakage resulting in poor performance. It may be necessary to clean the top of the coil with a lint-free cloth and solvent for better visual inspection. Coil replacement may be indicated.
Check coil power to see if it has been eroded by poor connections, improper coil installation or assembly.

How do you replace a condenser?

Replace condenser if found defective or when new points are installed.

How do you remove and examine a spark plug?

Use a spark plug wrench to remove the plug. Always use a new spark plug gasket when replacing plug. Examine the firing end of the spark plug, noting the type of deposits and the degree of electrode erosion. Refer to pages 10-3 and 10-4 for various types of spark plug fouling and their causes.

How do you clean a spark plug?

Clean the plug on a sandblast cleaner, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Do not prolong the use of the abrasive blast as it will erode the insulator and electrodes. Clean ALL abrasive from plug before turning into engine. Brush threads with a wire brush. Clean the electrode surface with a small file. Dress the electrodes to obtain flat parallel surfaces on both the center and side electrode. After cleaning, examine the plug carefully for cracked or broken insulator, badly pitted electrodes, and other signs of failure. Replace if damaged. Adjust spark plug gap. Torque plug to recommended specifications.

How do you service breaker points?

Breaker points can be burned from excessively high voltage, oily or dirty points, a faulty condenser or improper point adjustment. Pitted points and some transfer of material between the points is considered normal. If point transfer is 0.020 inch or more, replace the points. Rough contacts which are grayish in color often have a greater area of contact than new contacts and will provide satisfactory service until most of the tungsten is worn off.

How do you clean breaker points?

Clean the points with a few strokes of a clean oil-free fine-cut contact (riffle) file. Do not attempt to remove all roughness nor dress the point surfaces smooth: merely remove the scale or dirt. Never use emery cloth or sandpaper to clean the points since abrasive particles will embed in the point surface and cause arcing and rapid burning of the points.

How do you replace breaker points?

When replacing points, remove screws. Be sure lock washers are in place on 110 Tractor before reassembly. Replacement points for 112 Tractor are packaged with a new fiber push rod. Be sure to install new push rod whenever replacing points. Refer to Figures 28 or 29 and adjust breaker point gap.

What should you do before replacing or repairing a neutral-start switch?

Before replacing or repairing a neutral-start switch, be sure to test the switch. A simple adjustment may correct the problem.

How should the battery be positioned in the tractor?

Position the battery in the tractor with terminals closest to the front of the tractor. Tighten hold-down wing nuts only finger tight. Attach wire from solenoid to positive (+) battery terminal. Be sure the rubber boot is installed on the positive wire and that it completely covers the positive terminal. Attach ground wire to negative ( – ) battery terminal.

How do you install coil and condenser?

Insert coil in coil mounting clamp and tighten mounting-clamp bolt firmly. Fasten coil clamp and condenser to mounting bracket with two screws, lock washers and wrought washers. Tighten screws firmly. Connect long red wire (from ignition switch) to positive (+) terminal on coil. Connect condenser and point lead to coil negative (-) terminal. Do not reverse these connections.

How do you install breaker points?

Be sure the rubber grommet is installed over the wire to points before connecting wire to points on 110 Tractors. When installing new points on 112 Tractors, be sure to include the new push rod included with the points. Install breaker point cover.

How do you install a solenoid?

Install solenoid. Tighten cap screws firmly. Connect black cable with brown lead to the right-hand terminal of the solenoid. Connect black cable with black lead to the left-hand terminal of the solenoid. Connect purple lead to the small terminal on the solenoid. Refer to illustrations in Group 5 when making electrical connections.

How do you adjust breaker points with a gauge?

Disconnect spark plug cable to prevent accidental starting of the engine. Remove ignition point cover and rotate engine flywheel until points are fully open. Check point gap with a 0.020-inch feeler gauge. If adjustment is required, loosen locking screw and move screwdriver in V-slot until points are properly set. After tightening the locking screw, recheck point gap. Check engine timing on 110 Tractors with timing light for positive timing.

How do you adjust the spark plug gap?

Determine spark plug condition. Reusable plugs, after being cleaned, must be regapped. The distance between electrodes should be 0.025 inch on 110 Tractors and 0.030 inch on 112 Tractors. Bend the outer electrode only for proper gap. Always remove the old spark plug gasket and install a new gasket when installing a cleaned plug back in engine. Gaskets are available at any automotive jobber. A new gasket is supplied with new plugs. Tighten plug to 15 to 20 ft-lbs torque.

How do you check coil polarity?

Coil polarity is important because incorrect polarity will require 4000-8000 volts more to fire the spark plug.

One method to check polarity is to connect the negative lead of a voltmeter to the spark plug terminal. With engine running, momentarily touch positive voltmeter lead to a good ground. The coil polarity is correct if the meter reads up scale.
Another method is to hold the spark plug high tension wire about 1/8 inch from the spark plug. Insert lead point of a wooden pencil in spark. The spark should flare and turn orange on plug side of pencil lead if polarity is correct. A loss of engine power is also noticed when the coil polarity is incorrect.

How do you adjust the neutral-start switch and bracket?

There are two adjustments which are important so that the neutral start switch will operate as designed, whenever the shift lever is placed into neutral to complete the engine cranking circuit. To adjust the neutral start switch and bracket, connect a continuity tester to switch terminals.

Position the shift lever so that the dimple in the underside of the fork plate is above or touching the switch plunger. Loosen jam nut and turn switch inward until continuity is observed on meter. Then turn switch barrel 1/4 turn clockwise and tighten jam nut.
Move shift lever up and down in the neutral position. If the dimple in the underside of the fork does not contact plunger, loosen both switch bracket screws and move bracket until the dimple in the fork contacts plunger. Tighten cap screws firmly. When the shift lever is in the neutral position, it must move forward and rearward without striking either side of the switch fork plate. If the lever strikes and moves the fork, loosen the two bolts holding the switch bracket to the transaxle and shift the bracket until the shifter lever does not strike the switch fork. Tighten bolts firmly.
Connect a continuity tester to switch terminals. Loosen jam nut and turn switch inward until continuity is observed on meter. Then turn switch barrel 1/4 turn clockwise and tighten jam nut. Be sure dimple is not pushing plunger down too far. If plunger contacts fork too hard, the switch will be active at all times and will bend bracket.

When proper adjustment is obtained, the engine should start only when the shift lever is in neutral position.

What are the electrical component specifications?

Spark Plug Gap
- 110 Tractors – K161S-7HP Kl81S-8HP Kohler Engines: 0.025 inch
- 112 Tractors – HH100-10HP Tecumseh Engine: 0.030 inch
Breaker Point Gap (all engines): 0.020 inch
Battery: 12 volts
Coil Power Test
- Operating amperage: 2.25 Max. @ 21,000 volts
- Continuity Test OHM Resistance: 3.9 Min/ 4.8 Max. @ 8,000 volts ± 1000 volts
Condenser
- Capacity- Microfarads: .18- .23
- Minimum resistance Flash: 1000 meg. OHMs 500 volts D.C.

What is the torque for hardware?

Spark plug (cold)
- Kl61S-7HP and Kl81S-8HP Kohler: 15-20 ft-lbs
- HH100-l0HP Tecumseh: 15-20 ft-lbs

What is the tune up data?

Battery level: Water should cover plates at all times. Use clean distilled water when possible.
Spark plug: Periodically clean and regap.
Breaker points: Replace badly pitted or burned breaker points.
Wear Tolerance: Refer to specifications chart supplied by test equipment manufacturer and use appropriate control settings for the battery being tested.

What special tools are used for electrical repairs?

Hydrometer-Thermometer
Generator-Regulator Tester
Timing- Light
Battery Charger
Ignition Point File
Feeler Gauge
Spark Plug Wire Gauge
Test Lamp
Magneto Analyzer

What are the uses for special tools?

Hydrometer-Thermometer: To check battery condition
Generator-Regulator Tester: To check generator output and voltage
Timing Light: To set engine timing
Battery Charger: For initial charge and to recharge batteries
Ignition Point File: To file breaker points and spark plug electrodes
Feeler Gauge: To gap breaker points
Spark Plug Wire Gauge: To check gap and regap spark plug
Test Lamp: Test circuits
Magneto Analyzer: Test coil condenser, solenoid, battery voltage and check continuity

How do you test circuit wiring?

A visual inspection will often reveal much useful information relative to the condition of the charging system. All wiring should be visually inspected periodically for damaged insulation. Faulty wiring should be replaced. All terminals should be checked for loose or corroded connections. Terminals should be cleaned and tightened if necessary. Unwanted resistance in the circuit results in unwanted voltage losses or drops. Excessive voltage drop in the charging circuit tends to keep the battery in an undercharged condition.

How do you perform a motor-generator no-load test off the tractor?

First, check the motor-generator on the tractor. Then, perform the no-load test as instructed below with the motor-generator removed from the tractor. To perform the “No-Load” test, connect the motor in series with a battery of proper voltage and an ammeter capable of reading several hundred amperes. A tachometer or rpm indicator may be used to measure armature revolutions per minute or free speed. With the motor operating and the field grounded, measure the current draw and note the armature speed. Compare these readings with specifications to determine if the motor is operating properly.

Rated current draw at rated speed, as found in specifications, indicates normal condition of the motor-generator.
Low free speed and high current draw indicates:
- Too much friction-tight, dirty or worn bearings, bent armature shaft or loose pole shoes allowing armature to drag.
- Shorted armature. Check on a growler after disassembly.
- Grounded armature or fields. Check further after disassembly.
Failure to operate with high current draw indicates:
- Direct ground in the terminal or fields.
No current draw indicates:
- Open field circuit. Check after disassembly by inspecting internal connections and tracing circuit with a test lamp.
- Open armature coils. Inspect the commutator for badly burned bars after disassembly.
- Broken brush springs, worn brushes, high insulation between the commutator bars or other causes which would prevent good contact between the brushes and the commutator.
Low no-load speed and low current draw indicates:
- High internal resistance due to poor connections, defective leads, dirty commutator and causes listed under No. 4.
High free speed and high current draw indicates a shorted shunt or series field coil. A shorted shunt coil can be determined. If the shunt coil performs properly, replace the series coil.
High free speed and near normal current draw indicates an open shunt coil. Replace the coil and check for improved performance.
Noise emanating from a generator may be caused by a loose mounting or drive pulley. It can also be caused by worn or dirty bearings, or improperly seated brushes. Dirty bearings may sometimes be saved by cleaning and lubricating, but worn bearings should be replaced. Excessive noise may result if the brush holder is bent, resulting in improper seating of the brush. Such a brush holder must be replaced.

How do you test generator output?

To check the motor-generator output, some means of driving the unit is necessary. Also, an ammeter, variable resistance and voltmeter are needed. The field connection must be grounded with a jumper lead. Refer to specifications for specified rpm and rotation, and drive unit accordingly. Adjust the voltage by varying the resistance and read ammeter. The unit should function according to specifications. If not, repair or replace parts as indicated in the following test conclusions.

If the generator will not produce any output, check the commutator, brushes and internal connections. Sticking brushes, a dirty or gummy commutator or poor connections may prevent the generator from producing any output. Solder thrown from the commutator riser bars indicates that the generator has been overheated from excessive output. Often this leads to an open circuit and burned commutator bars and consequently no output. If the brushes are satisfactorily seated and are making good contact with the commutator, and the cause of trouble is not apparent, use a test lamp as follows to locate the trouble (leads must be disconnected from motor-generator terminals).
- Remove motor-generator from the tractor. Remove end frame (commutator end). Raise the grounded brush from the commutator and insulate with a piece of paper. Place end frame in place using care not to move the paper strip. Install and snug through bolts. Check for grounds with test prods from the generator “F” terminal to the generator frame. If the lamp lights, it indicates that the unit is internally grounded. The location of the ground can be found by disconnecting the field and brush leads from the insulated brush holder and checking the brush holders, armature and field separately. Repair or replace parts as required.
- If the unit is not grounded, check the field for an open circuit with a test lamp. The lamp should light when one test point is placed on the field terminal and the other is placed on the armature terminal. If it does not light, the circuit is open. If the open is due to a broken lead or bad connection, it can be repaired, but if the open is inside one of the field coils, the coil must be replaced.
- If the field is not open, check for a short circuit in the field. By connecting a battery and an ammeter in series with the field circuit. Proceed with care, since a shorted field may draw excessive current which might damage the ammeter. If the field coil current draw is not within specification for the specified voltage, new field coils will be required. If a shorted shunt field is found, check the regulator contact points, since a shorted field may have been caused by excessive field current which would have caused the regulator contact points to burn. Clean or replace points as required.
- If the trouble has not yet been located, check the armature for open and short circuits. Open circuits in the armature are usually obvious since an arc will occur at the commutator bars connected to the open winding every time they pass under the generator brushes and consequently become burned. If the bars are not too badly burned and the open circuit can be found and repaired, the armature can usually be saved. When this condition is found, the regulator should be checked and readjusted if necessary so the setting is within specifications.
If the generator produces a low or unsteady output, the following factors should be considered:
- A loose drive belt that slips and consequently causes a low or unsteady output.
- Brushes that stick in their holders, or low brush spring tension which will prevent good contact between the brushes and commutator resulting in low and unsteady output. This will also cause arcing and burning of the brushes and commutator.
- A commutator that is dirty, out of round, or has high mica causing generator output to be low and unsteady. To correct these conditions, turn the commutator down in a lathe and undercut the mica. Burned commutator bars may indicate an open circuit condition in the armature.
When a generator produces excessive voltage or current, disconnect the lead from the “F” terminal. If the generator output remains high, with the “F” terminal lead disconnected, then the trouble is in the generator itself which must be further analyzed to locate the source of trouble. Since the motor-generator field circuit is grounded through the regulator, accidental internal grounding of the field circuit will prevent normal regulation so that excessive output will be produced by the generator. On this type of unit, an internally grounded field circuit which would cause excessive output may be located by connecting a test lamp between the “F” terminal and the generator frame. All leads should be disconnected from the “F” terminal and the brush to which the field lead is connected inside the generator should be raised off the commutator before this test is made. If the test lamp lights, the field is internally grounded. If the field has become grounded because of defective insulation on a field lead, repair can be made by re-insulating the lead. It is also possible to make a repair where a ground has occurred at the pole shoes by removing the field coil and re-insulating them. A ground at the “F” terminal stud can be repaired by installing new insulating washers or bushings.

How do you test the armature for opens, shorts, and grounds?

SHORTS – Short circuits are located by rotating the armature in a growler with a steel strip (hacksaw blade) held on the armature. The steel strip will vibrate on the area of the short circuit.
GROUNDS – Grounds in the armature can be detected by use of a test lamp and prods. If the lamp lights when one test prod is placed on the commutator and the other test prod on the armature core or shaft, the armature is grounded.
OPENS – Inspect the points where the conductors are joined to the commutator for loose connections. Poor connections cause arcing and burning of the commutator. If the armature has loose connections. If the commutator is worn, dirty, out of round, or has high insulation, the commutator should be turned down and undercut.

What is needed to test the voltage regulator?

The proper testing equipment in the hands of a qualified mechanic is necessary to assure proper and accurate regulator settings. Any attempt on the part of untrained personnel to adjust regulators is likely to lead to serious damage to the electrical equipment. After making any generator or regulator tests or adjustments the generator should be polarized to avoid damage to equipment.

What should I do if I have Excessive Primary Belt Wear?

Adjust the linkage if the clutch rod is not adjusted properly.
Clean the hub and variator center sheave bearing if there is a dirty or gummy variator sheave hub.
Clean dirt from the grooves if there is dirt in variator sheave grooves.

What should I do if I have Excessive Secondary Belt Wear?

Increase spring tension or install a new spring if there is a weak secondary idler spring.
Replace the sheave if there is a worn, bent, or nicked input sheave.
Replace the belt and move the transaxle to the rear position if the belt is worn or lumpy.
Check the condition of the sheaves and replace parts as necessary if there are worn or nicked variator sheaves.

What should I do if dirt is in the sheave grooves?

Clean dirt from grooves.

What should I do if the secondary belt idler arm pivot is binding?

Clean and lubricate the pivot. Replace parts as necessary.

What should I do if there is oil or grease on the belt?

Clean the belt or replace it if necessary.

What can cause a Noisy Variator?

Worn center variator sheave bearing.
Worn variator bearing.

What should I do if the center variator sheave bearing is worn?

Replace the center sheave assembly.

What should I do if the variator bearing is worn?

Replace the bearing.

What should I do about Variator Squeals in 110 Tractors (-9082)?

Remove the variator brake assembly and install a new input sheave.

What can cause the Clutch to be Hard to Operate?

Engine not running.
Brake rod not properly adjusted.
Clutch rod not properly adjusted.
Variator arm binding in pivot (in pedestal).
Secondary belt Idler arm pivot binding.
Dirty or gummy variator hub.

What should I do if the engine is not running when operating the clutch?

Run the engine when operating the clutch.

What should I do if the brake rod is not properly adjusted?

Adjust the brake rod.

What should I do if the clutch rod is not properly adjusted?

Adjust the clutch rod.

What should I do if the variator arm is binding in the pivot (in pedestal)?

Lubricate the pivot and replace parts if necessary.

What should I do if the secondary belt Idler arm pivot is binding?

Clean and lubricate the pivot and replace parts as necessary.

What should I do if there is a dirty or gummy variator hub?

Clean the hub and variator center sheave bearing.

What should I do if the Clutch Pedal Goes Down Beyond the Top of the Footrest?

Adjust the brake rod if it is not properly adjusted.

What does it mean if the Clutch Pedal Creeps Down Under Load?

This is a characteristic of the drive when encountering loads with the variable speed control lever fully forward. It could also be due to a weak variator spring or variator linkage not properly adjusted.

What should I do if the variator spring is weak?

Replace the spring.

What should I do if the Variator linkage is not properly adjusted?

Adjust the variator.

What should I do if the Clutch-Brake Pedal Strikes the Bottom of the Footrest?

Adjust the linkage if the clutch rod is not properly adjusted.
Replace the belt if the primary belt is too long.
Adjust the linkage if the variator linkage is not properly adjusted.

What should I do if the Clutch Will Not Disengage?

Adjust the linkage if the clutch rod and/or brake rod is not properly adjusted.
Move the transaxle to the forward position if the secondary belt is short.
Adjust the linkage if the variator linkage is not properly adjusted.
Install the correct belt if the primary belt is too short.
Install a lock washer between the screw head and idler cover if the secondary belt idler is striking the idler cover screw.

What should I do if the Clutch Pedal Jumps?

Replace the belt if the primary V-belt and/or secondary V-belt is worn or lumpy.

What should I do for Excessive clutch shaft end clearance?

Add a washer between the bearing and clutch-brake pedal arm.

What should I do if the input sheave is loose on the transaxle hub?

Tighten the cap screws.

What should I do if there are No Brakes?

Operate the engine for more effective braking if the engine is not running.
Adjust the linkage if the brake rod is not properly adjusted.
Install the proper length bolt through the fender and tractor base if there is a wrong length fender bolt by the brake bracket.
Install a lock washer between the screw head and idler cover if the secondary belt idler is striking the idler cover screw.
Adjust the linkage if the variator linkage is not properly adjusted.
Move the transaxle to the forward position if the secondary belt is too short.

What should I do if the Brakes are Not Effective?

Replace the band assembly if the lining is worn or broken.
Clean the oil from the lining, or replace the band assembly if the lining is oily.

What should I do if the Tractor Does Not Move (Engine Running)?

Move the variable speed control lever forward if the variator is clutched.
Release the brake if the parking brake is set.
Adjust the linkage if the variator linkage is not properly adjusted.
Install the correct length belt if the primary belt is too long.
Lubricate the arm and replace parts as necessary if the variator arm is binding in the pivot (in pedestal).

What should I do about Excessive Tractor Vibration?

Replace the V-belt if the primary V-belt and/or secondary V-belt is worn or lumpy.

What should I do if the transaxle drive sheave cap screws are loose?

Tighten the cap screws firmly.

What should I do if the input sheave (transaxle) is bent or damaged?

Replace the sheave.

What should I do if the Tractor Will Not Move With Variable Speed Control Lever Pulled Back?

Increase spring tension or install a new spring if the secondary idler spring is weak.
Adjust the linkage if the variator linkage is not properly adjusted.
Install the proper belt if the primary belt is too long.
Clean the hub and inside of the center sheave bearing and check the center sheave condition and replace if necessary if there is a dirty or gummy variator sheave hub.

What should I do if the Tractor Will Not Accelerate When the Variable Speed Control Lever is Allowed Forward?

Lubricate the clutch shaft brackets and align brackets if necessary to ease clutch shaft movement if the clutch shaft is tight in clutch brackets.
Check the variator center sheave bearing and hub tolerance and replace parts as necessary if the variator center sheave is too tight on the variator hub.

What should I do if the Variator-brake linkage is not properly adjusted?

Adjust the linkage.

What should I do if the secondary belt is short?

Move the transaxle to the forward position or install a new belt if necessary.

What should I do if the Tractor Will Not Attain Specified Travel Speed?

Adjust the linkage if the variator linkage is not properly adjusted.
Lubricate the clutch shaft brackets and align brackets if necessary to ease clutch shaft movement if the clutch shaft is tight in clutch brackets.

What steps should I take before Inverting the Tractor?

Be sure to shut off the gas connection and drain the tank to prevent gas leakage when the tractor is turned upside down.
Remove the battery.
Drain the engine crankcase.
Plug the hydraulic reservoir before inverting the tractor.

How do I Replace the Primary V-Belt?

Remove the muffler and disconnect the safety switch leads.
Remove the belt guard, belt guide, hydraulic drive belt, and mower drive if the tractor is equipped.
Move the variable speed control lever forward to the fast speed position.
Turn the engine over slightly until the variator is fully back. Then, raise the secondary Idler and slip the secondary belt off the variator sheave.
After the secondary belt is removed from the variator, depress the clutch-brake pedal and lock the parking brake to hold the variator forward.
Remove the primary belt guide and loosen the bolt holding the belt guide.
Remove the belt from the variator and engine sheave.
Reverse the above procedure to install the new primary belt and adjust the primary belt guide.

IMPORTANT: After replacing the primary belt, readjust the linkage. Refer to “Adjustment,”.

How do I Replace the Secondary Belt?

Move the variable speed control lever forward to the fast speed position.
Turn the engine over momentarily to allow the variator to move to the fast speed position.
Then raise the secondary idler and slip the secondary belt off the variator.
Remove the three screws from the input sheave and slide the sheave off the hub far enough to remove the belt.
Install the new belt around the variator sheave.
Block up the secondary idler to release belt tension and install the belt and input sheave.
If the transmission has been moved rearward to take up secondary belt slack prior to belt replacement, loosen the bolts and move the transmission forward before installing the new secondary belt. Tighten the bolts holding the transmission.
Readjust the variator and brake linkage after moving the transmission.

How do I Inspect V-Belts?

Recognize normal wear as even wear on the belt and sides of the sheave.
Cut off the raveling when the covering begins to peel. Raveling of the belt covering does not indicate premature belt failure.
When extreme or abnormal belt wear is noticed, check first for faulty sheaves.
Replace sheaves that are bent, nicked, or chipped, as they will cause rapid belt wear.
Check the variator sheave, and loosen and remove dirt from all sheaves. Tractor vibration and erratic operation will result when dirt becomes packed and lodged in the V-grooves of the sheaves.

See page 10-6 of “Diagnosing Malfunctions” for other possible causes of belt wear.

How do I Clean V-Belts?

Clean belts by wiping them with a clean cloth.
Avoid using solvents since this will soften the materials and cause the clutch to grab.
Replace belts found to be oily or greasy.
Do not use belt dressings, as they often give only temporary gripping action while softening the belt and causing eventual deterioration and shortening of the belt life and will also cause a “grabby” clutch.

How do I Remove the Variator?

Remove the primary and secondary belts from the variator. IMPORTANT: Do not pry on the sides of the variator.
Remove the two cap screws to remove the variator from the tractor.
Place the variator halves (with thrust bearing support) in a vise with soft jaws. Insert two large punches in holes of the sheave and use a bar which will turn counterclockwise to remove the center sheave from the variator hub.

How do I Remove the Variator Bearing and Arm?

Place the variator bearing and hub assembly under a press and press the bearing from the hub. Be sure to press against the outer race only.
Place the hub in a vise and remove the half sheave with two punches and a bar.

How do I Inspect the Variator?

Measure the I.D. of the center sheave bearing and the O.D. of the variator hub after cleaning parts thoroughly.
Refer to “Specifications” for wear tolerances. Replace the center sheave or hub if wear limits are exceeded. Do not attempt to service the center sheave bearing. The bearing and center sheave are available only as a factory assembly.
Check the center sheave and sheave halves for wear on the sheave faces or for evidence of damage or nicks. Replace parts that may cause excessive belt wear or which would upset the delicate balance of the variator assembly.
Measure press fit between bearing and hub. See “Specifications” for wear limits. Check bearing condition.
Also check the press fit of the bearing shaft in bearing support. Replace parts necessary to obtain proper fit. IMPORTANT: The center sheave is lubricated with a special grease at the factory and will last for the lifetime of the sheave. Do not attempt to lubricate the center sheave.

How do I Assemble the Variator?

Coat the bearing case with a light film of oil. Place the hub with the sheave on the press bed and press the bearing into the hub until the distance between the end of the bearing shaft and hub face is 0.031-0.047 inch beyond the hub face.
Wipe a light film of oil on the bearing shaft. Place the bearing support on the bearing shaft with the weld down or undercut up, depending on the type of support.
Press the bearing support on the shaft until the distance between the bearing support and sheave is 0.13 inch.
Clamp the assembly in a vise having soft jaws. Place the center sheave assembly on the hub and thread the half sheave on the hub.
Using two large punches and a bar, tighten the sheaves firmly by turning the sheave in the opposite direction.
Spike the threads three or four places on both sides of the variator.
After spiking threads, recheck the distance between the bearing support and sheave. If the distance is greater than 0.13 inch, press the bearing support further on the shaft until the proper distance is obtained.

How do I Install the Variator?

Attach the variator and primary belt guide on the variator arm with two cap screws.
Install the belts and adjust the primary belt guide.
Tighten cap screws firmly.
After installation, readjust the variator linkage.

How do I Replace Brake Bands for 110 Tractors (-3550)?

Separate the frame from the transaxle.
Remove three cap screws from the transaxle sheave on the input shaft, disconnect the brake clevis, idler spring, and neutral start wires.
Remove eight cap screws securing the tractor base to the hitch assembly.
Raise the transaxle assembly and place blocks between the transaxle and tractor base.
Remove the brake pulley with a puller.
Remove the brake band pivot bolt and the assembly.
Slip the brake pin out of the brake arms and lever.
Drive spring pins from the arms and band.
Lubricate the lever pivot before reassembly.
Reverse disassembly procedure to assure correct installation.
After installing the transaxle on the tractor, adjust the linkage accordingly.

How do I Replace Brake Bands for 110 Tractors (3551-15000)?

Loosen the pulley set screw and remove the brake pulley with a puller.
Disconnect the brake rod from the brake arm on the clutch shaft.
Bend the end of the lever stop far enough to clear the brake lever.
Remove the brake pivot bolt and lower assembly from the brake bracket.
Remove the brake pin.
Use light grease to lubricate the lever pivot before reassembling the pivot in the lever.
Apply Loctite to the threads before tightening the set screw in the brake pulley.
Adjust the lever stop against the lever to prevent the brake arms from dragging on the brake pulley.

To check lever stop adjustment: place the shifter lever in the neutral position. If the brake adjustment is correct, the brake pulley should be free enough to rotate by hand.

After assembling the brake, adjust the linkage accordingly.

How do I Replace the Variator Brake Shoe for 110 Tractors (-9082)?

Remove the brake shoe, if equipped with a cast iron sheave that causes undesirable squealing, and replace the cast iron input sheave with the lighter sheet metal sheave.
Remove the variator brake assembly only on tractors equipped with a sheet metal sheave.

How do I Replace Brake Bands for 110 and 112 Tractors (15001-100,000)?

Remove the left-hand fender by removing three cap screws.
To remove the brake band having a brake bracket with one hole, follow the brake band replacement procedure for 110 Tractors (-3550).
To remove the brake band on 110 Tractors with two holes in the brake bracket and all 112 Tractors, remove the left-hand fender by removing three cap screws, loosen the brake pulley set screw, and pull the brake pulley from the shaft with a puller.
Remove the brake band pivot bolt through the slotted hole in the tractor frame.
Then lift the brake band until the brake pin is aligned with the hole in the brake bracket.
Using needle nose pliers, pull the brake pin through the hole.
Lubricate the lever pivot before reassembly.
Apply Loctite to threads before tightening the set screw in the brake pulley.

After assembling the brake, adjust the linkage accordingly.

When is Linkage Adjustment necessary?

Linkage adjustment is necessary when either of the following occurs:

Tractor is inoperative when the variable speed lever is in notch 7 on the quadrant (slow speed position).
Clutch-brake pedal strikes the bottom of the footrest during normal operation.

How do I perform a Linkage Adjustment?

Remove the inspection plate from the pedestal to open the adjusting hole and disconnect linkage “B”.
Disconnect the brake linkage at “C”.
Place the variable speed lever in notch 3 on the quadrant, which is the third notch from the front of the tractor.
Disconnect the spark plug cable and turn the engine with the key starter several revolutions.
Measure the distance at “E,” which is the distance between the bottom of the footrest and the top of the clutch-brake arm. This distance should be 1/2 inch.
- If dimension “E” is not 1/2 inch, adjust according to tractor Serial No. as follows:
- 110 Tractors (-40000): Disconnect “D” and turn the threaded clevis either up or down until dimension “E” is 1/2 inch.
- 110 Tractors (40001-) and 112 Tractors: Insert a tapered punch or screwdriver at “D” and turn the rod either up or down until dimension “E” is 1/2 inch.
Hold link “B” to the top of the slot and turn the threaded clevis up or down as required until the pin can easily be inserted at “B.” Insert the spring locking pin.
Connect pin “C” temporarily.
Turn the engine over several times with the key starter while moving the ground speed control lever to notch 7 (slow speed position).
Depress the clutch-brake pedal as far as possible. The top of the clutch-brake pedal should now be 3/4 inch above the top of the footrest (dimension “H”). If not, turn the brake rod into clevis “F” until the 3/4 inch dimension can be obtained.
Insert the spring locking pin into pin “C”.
Turn nut “G” on the parking brake rod either up or down until the clutch-brake pedal can be held in the lowered position.

If, after adjusting the linkage, the tractor still will not move when the ground speed control lever is in the first notch on the quadrant (slow speed position), remove the inspection plate and turn the threaded clevis up one or two turns on link “A.” If necessary, install a new primary belt.

When should V-belt tension be adjusted?

V-belt tension should be adjusted if:

Clutch-brake pedal strikes the bottom of the footrest when the variable speed control lever is in the forward position.
Tractor does not move when the variable speed control lever is in the rearmost notch in the quadrant.
Secondary belt strands operate less than 3/4-inch apart.

How do I adjust Primary Belt Tension?

If at any time the clutch-brake pedal strikes the bottom of the footrest, or if the tractor does not move with the variable speed control lever in the rearmost notch in the quadrant, the tractor linkage will require adjusting.

If, after making the adjustment, the tractor is still inoperative with the variable speed control lever in the rearmost notch in the quadrant, install a new primary belt.

How do I adjust Secondary Belt Tension for 110 Tractors (-15000)?

If excessive belt stretching allows the idler to rub on the lower belt strand or operates less than 3/4 inch at the closest point, additional belt tension can be obtained by moving the transmission rearward:

Loosen the cap screws and move the transmission in the slotted holes toward the rear of the tractor until the desired tension is obtained.
Tighten the nuts firmly.

CAUTION: Do not allow the transmission and wheels to angle to one side in the slotted holes, as this causes “dog tracking” of the rear wheels and secondary belt wear.

After moving the transmission, be sure to readjust the variator and brake rod linkage.

How do I adjust Secondary Belt Tension for 110 and 112 Tractors (15001-100,000)?

Remove the cap screws.
Move the transmission rearward into the second set of holes.
Insert the cap screws through the rear holes and tighten firmly.

After moving the transmission, be sure to readjust the variator and brake rod linkage.

How do I perform Belt Guide Adjustment?

If the primary belt jumps the variator sheave when the clutch-brake pedal is depressed, the distance between the variator and primary belt guide should be checked. The distance between the guide and sheave should not exceed 1/8 inch.

How do I install the secondary belt guide on 110 Tractors (3551-10076) to prevent the belt from jumping out of the variator groove?

Install the belt guide.

How do I Remove the Transaxle?

Mount the tractor on a repair stand.
Run the engine and move the variable speed control lever forward (fast speed position).
Shut off the fuel at the sediment bowl.
Remove the gas tank.
Remove the battery.
Drain the engine crankcase.
Replace the vented filler cap on the hydraulic reservoir with a pipe plug to prevent leakage.
Disconnect the brake clevis pin, idler spring, and neutral-start wires from the switch.
Slip the secondary belt off the variator and remove the shift quadrant from the deck.
Remove the wheels.
Remove the remaining screws that hold the transaxle support and hitch plate to the tractor base.
Lift the transaxle away from the tractor.

How do I Remove External Parts from the Transaxle?

Remove the brake, idler arm, hitch, input hub, and wheel hub assemblies from the transaxle.
Use a puller to prevent hub breakage or internal differential damage.
Position the shift lever in neutral.
Remove the neutral start bracket with switch, shifter assembly, axle supports, and retainers with seal.
Use extreme care when removing axle supports since they are machined to a light press fit.
Clean and polish axles as necessary to permit easy removal of axle support.

NOTE: Mark locations of right and left-hand axle housings on transaxles of 110 Tractors (-3571).

How do I Open the Transaxle?

Place the transaxle in a bench or stand vertically with the socket head cap screws up.
Remove eight screws.
Leave dowel pins in place.
While holding case halves together, invert the entire transaxle and reposition in bench. THIS IS IMPORTANT: The transaxle cover must be removed first.
Drive out dowel pins.
Grasp the brake shaft with the left hand and transaxle cover with the right hand.
Lift the case slowly and shake lightly so all loose parts remain in the lower case.

How do I Remove Internal Components?

Output shaft.
Differential and axle assembly.
Idler shaft.
Reverse idler.
Shifter shaft and forks assembly.
Input shaft.

NOTE: The input shaft is installed with a press fit. If close inspection reveals that gears and bearings are satisfactory, do not remove the input shaft.

How do I Disassemble the Shifter Lever?

Shear the cross pin between the housing and keeper. Use a vise and blunt shaft or punch.

To disassemble the shift lever, remove the snap ring in the shifter housing and slide the assembly apart.

How do I Replace Axle Shafts and Pinion Gear for 110 TRACTORS (-3571)?

The axle shafts and bevel gears for transaxles are factory assembled and can only be serviced by replacing the shaft and gear assembly.

How do I Replace Axle Shafts and Pinion Gear for 110 TRACTORS (3572-15000)?

The axle shaft and bevel gear are factory assembled with the bevel gear rolled or peened on the splined shaft.
A loose bevel gear indicates trouble and should be serviced.
A bent axle or broken bevel gear requires new parts.
When either the axle shaft or bevel gear must be serviced, the gear kit consisting of two axle bevel gears and two pinion gears must be used. IMPORTANT: Gears in this kit are a matched set. Do not mix old and new gears.
New axles, thrust washers, and snap rings must also be used.

How do I Assemble Differential?

Inspect the bevel pinion gears.
Assemble all parts depending upon the tractor serial number.
Apply Loctite or equivalent to ends of threads and assemble cap screws through carrier into tapped carrier.
Be sure the lock washer is under the head of the screw.
Refer to the Bolt Torque Chart for proper cap screw torque.
The axles should rotate freely in opposite directions when assembled.
Lay the differential assembly aside for later installation.

How do I install Bearings (3572-15000)?

All bearings are pressed into the bores from the inside of the case.
Be sure the seal is installed.

Bearing drivers to install bearings are listed under “Special Tools”. As a general rule, all bearings should be pressed into the bearing bore to a depth.

How do I assemble the Input Shaft and Gear?

Assemble the input shaft and gear.
The counterbored gear spline must face to the right.
The gear is a press fit onto the shaft.

How do I Install Input Shaft?

Install the input shaft and gear into the case.
The flat side of the gear should now face upward.

How do I assemble Idler Shaft and Gears?

Assemble the idler shaft.
These gears are a slip fit on the spline.
The raised hub of the large gear faces the short spacer.
The teeth on the medium and small gear have round engagement edges that must face the large gear.
Spacers are of different lengths, so assemble as shown.

The long round end of the idler shaft turns in the bushing on the brake shaft. Be sure the end of the shaft is not battered.

How do I install the Idler Shaft?

Install the idler shaft and gears in the case.
The long end of the shaft faces upward.
The large gear engages the input gear.

How do I assemble the Reverse Idler Shaft and Gear?

Assemble the reverse idler shaft assembly as illustrated.
The round edge of the teeth faces the spacer.

How do I install the Reverse Idler?

Install the reverse idler and shaft in the case with the round edge of the teeth and spacer upwards.

How do I assemble Shifters?

Assemble the forks.
Both forks should face to the right for assembly.
The 2nd and 3rd shafts must have the unequally spaced grooves at the top and away from the fork.
The 1st and reverse shaft must have the shortest ungrooved end face the fork.
Start the shaft into the fork, depress the detents, and complete the assembly.
Slide forks along shaft.
A good snap should be felt in each detent.
Place forks in the center or neutral detent positions.

How do I assemble the Shifter Shaft?

Lay out the parts.
Be sure the forks are in the center grooves.
The exposed groove on the unequally spaced 2nd and 3rd shifter faces the gear on the shifter shaft.
The exposed groove of the 1st and reverse equally spaced shifter faces away from the gear on the shifter shaft.

The shifter shaft assembly should appear as shown. The slot in the forks should line up when the large gear is slipped as far as possible on the spline. Note the position of exposed grooves on shifter shafts.

How do you install the cluster gear and thrust washer?

Install the gear cluster and thrust washer on the pinion shaft as shown in Figure 41. All parts assembled thus far should appear as shown in Figure 41.

How do you install the differential assembly?

Install the differential assembly into the left-hand case with bolt heads facing upward as shown in Figure 42.

What should you do after the internal components are assembled?

Position the gasket on the lower (left-hand) case. Use a new gasket.

How do you assemble the right-hand case half?

Assemble the right-hand case half as illustrated in Figure 44. Shake the case lightly and all shafts and bearings will align themselves. Also, a short turn in both directions on the input shaft will help align gears. To close the last one-half inch, tap the right-hand case horizontally as shown in Figure 44. If the case will not close, reach through the round hole in the right-hand case with a screwdriver and move shifter rods. This will help align shifter rods so they will fall into shifter rod sockets in the right-hand case.

How do you install seals?

Insert dowel pins and bolt case halves together with eight socket head cap screws, Figure 45. Torque cap screws to 120 in-lbs. Install retainer and new seal with a special tool, page 20-21, or shim stock to prevent cutting seal when sliding it over the splined end of the axle. Oil seal lip must face inward, Figure 45.

How do you install axle supports?

Install O-rings and axle supports with bearings as shown in Figure 46. Always use new O-rings. Refer to “Bolt Torque Chart,” page 10-4 of Section 10 and torque support bolts accordingly.

What should you inspect on the shifter forks?

Inspect the shifter forks to be sure they are aligned and in the neutral position. Failure to do this will cause damage to the transmission when engaged under power (Compare illustrations above).

How do you assemble the shifter lever?

The shifter is assembled in the order shown in Figure 19, page 20-9. When assembling the shifter, be sure the rubber seal is positioned properly in the shifter housing. A little shellac or gasket cement will be helpful to prevent incorrect positioning of the rubber seal in the housing. Align housing, keeper, and spring pin in the shift lever and place the snap ring in the groove in the shifter housing. Torque cap screws to 120 in-lbs.

How do you install the transaxle?

Position the neutral start bracket with switch, shift lever, and gasket on the transaxle, Figure 48. Secure with three screws. Install brake, input hub, driven sheave with belt, secondary idler, and hitch assembly to transaxle, Figure 48. Before installing the transaxle in the tractor base, check the transaxle by turning the driven sheave and shifting the transaxle in each gear. Apply Loctite to threads on all bolts and set screws used in assembling components to the transaxle. Refer to the “Bolt Torque Chart,” page 10-4 of Section 10 and tighten bolts and set screws accordingly.

How do you install the transaxle in the tractor base?

Place the transaxle in the tractor base, Figure 49. Install cap screws holding the transaxle support and hitch plate to the tractor base. Connect the brake clevis and secondary idler spring, Figure 49. Then slip the secondary belt on the variator. Install wheel hubs with washers and snap rings. Bolt wheels to hubs with wheel bolts. Refer to the “Bolt Torque Chart,” page 10-4 of Section 10 and tighten hardware accordingly.

How do you adjust the quadrant?

Turn the tractor upright and install the shift quadrant. Apply Loctite to the shift lever threads and tighten the knob on the lever. Position the quadrant before tightening screws. Secure the seat spring to the tractor base. Refer to “Adjustment,” page 10-16, and adjust the brake and variator linkage. Refer to the Lubrication Chart, page 20-1 of Section 10 and add lubricant.

What special tools are required for transaxle work?

Bearing Support Tool
Burnishing Rod and 7/8-inch Ball
Oil Seal Cone 1-inch Oil Seal Tool
1-inch Oil Seal Cone
3/4-inch Bushing Tool
7/8-inch Oil Seal and Ball Bearing Tool
7/8-inch Seal Sleeve
7/8-inch Shaft Seal Driver Shifter Shaft Bearing Driver Tool
1-inch Ball Bearing Tool Retaining Ring Pliers Motor-Rotor Repair Stand

What does the repair stand adapter do?

Invert tractor for servicing transaxle and components beneath tractor.

How do you add lubricant to the hydraulic system?

When servicing the hydraulic system, remove the filler plug, Figure 3, and check the fluid level. It should be 1 to 1-1/2 inches from the top of the reservoir. When required add Automatic Transmission Fluid – Type “A”. Use only this Type Fluid to prevent cavitation and foaming of oil.

What should owners be instructed to do regarding the hydraulic fluid?

Owners should be instructed to check the hydraulic fluid level every 25 hours. The breather in the filler plug should be cleaned every 25 hours.

What should you do if there is oil spewing out of the filler-vent plug on the reservoir?

If excessive leakage seems to be caused by oil spewing out the filler-vent plug on the reservoir, especially on 112H Tractors ( – 6’727), a baffle plate can be installed on the pump back plate. See page 15-3.

What should you check for when the workload drops for no apparent reason?

When the workload drops for no apparent reason, check for oil around the cylinder connections. If connections are not losing oil, the piston O-ring may be leaking. The hydraulic cylinder is not serviceable and must be replaced when found defective.

What should you do before making tests on the hydraulic system?

Before making tests, check the reservoir for the proper oil level. Inspect hoses and connections for leaks or damage.

What should you do before stopping the engine when testing the hydraulic system?

Before stopping the engine, lower the hydraulic lift lever until the cylinder is fully retracted. Wipe dirt and dust from the unit and hoses with a clean cloth.

How do you test hydraulic pressure?

After the gauge or hydraulic tester is connected, start the engine and raise the throttle lever until the engine is running at 3600 rpm. Raise the hydraulic lift lever and observe the reading. Refer to “Specifications,” page 15-10, for system pressure. Refer to “Diagnosing Malfunctions,” page 5-6, to correct low system pressure.

What should you check if the pump is noisy?

Fluid low in reservoir. Check level and fill reservoir to proper level, page 5-3.
Oil too heavy. Drain system and fill with oil of proper viscosity, page 5-3.
Oil filter in reservoir plugged. Drain system, clean filter and fill with new fluid, page 5-3.

What should you check if the oil in the system gets hot?

Fluid low in reservoir. Check level and fill reservoir to proper level, page 5-3.
Contaminated oil. Drain oil and refill with new fluid of proper viscosity, page 5-3.
Relief valve setting too high or too low. Check pressure, page 15-8. Add or remove shims as required to obtain correct pressure.
Oil viscosity too high or too low. Drain system and fill with proper viscosity fluid, page 5-3.
Hoses restricted (crimped or pinched). Route lines properly to prevent restriction.
Leaks. Torque screws. Apply “Copper Coat” or equivalent to milled surfaces if necessary.

What should you check if the pump shaft seal is leaking?

Worn shaft seal. Replace seal.
Broken diaphragm seal or backup gasket. Check condition of diaphragm and gasket. Replace parts as necessary.
Bearing out of position. Check bearing position and condition, page 15-4. Replace front plate if necessary.
Excessive internal wear. Disassemble unit and check for internal wear. Replace parts as necessary.

What should you check if there is foaming oil?

Fluid low in reservoir. Check level and fill reservoir to proper level, page 5-3.
Oil viscosity too light or too heavy – wrong oil. Drain system and fill with non-foaming oil of proper viscosity, page 5-3.

What should you check if there is low system pressure?

Fluid low in reservoir. Check level and fill reservoir to proper level, page 5-3.
Loose, worn, or damaged drive belt. Check condition of belt. Tighten belt to proper tension, page 15-8. Replace belt if necessary.
Weak relief valve spring or worn adapter. Check condition of parts. Replace parts as necessary. Add shims if necessary.
Loose drive sheave (key missing). Install key and tighten sheave nut firmly.
Loose relief valve seat. Install seat to proper depth. See specifications, page 15-10.

What should you check if there is external leakage?

Loose screws. Tighten screws. Disassemble pump and apply “Copper Coat” or equivalent to milled surfaces if necessary.
Damaged O-rings. Replace O-rings between valve and back plate.
Valve spool worn or damaged. Check valve assembly. Replace valve assembly if necessary.

What should you do if oil is spewing out the breather on 110H Tractors (40001-68793) and 112B Tractors ( – 6727)?

Install baffle, page 15-3.

What should you check if the workload lowers with the spool in the “Slow-Raise” position?

Damaged lift check plunger. Replace plunger, page 10-4.
Damaged lift check seat. Replace valve assembly.
Damaged O-ring on lift check plug. Replace O-ring.

What should you check if the load drops with the spool in the center position?

Valve spool worn or damaged. Replace valve assembly.

What should you check if the valve spool is sticky?

Paint on exposed end of spool. Remove paint with paint remover. Wipe end of spool with a clean cloth and apply light film of oil on spool end.
Bent spool. Replace valve assembly.

What should you check if the hydraulic system is inoperative?

Loose or worn drive belt. Check condition of belt. Tighten belt, page 15-8. Install new belt if necessary.
Loose drive sheave (key missing). Install key and tighten sheave.
Loose relief valve seat. Install seat to proper depth. See specifications, page 15-10.
Cracked pump body. Excessive relief valve pressure. Check pressure, page 15-8. Remove shims as necessary.

What should you check if the cylinder load drops?

Cylinder O-ring worn or damaged. Replace cylinder.
Loose hose fittings. Tighten fitting.
Worn or damaged piston O-ring. Replace cylinder.
Defective weld. Weld hole shut. Replace cylinder if necessary.

What should you check if the control assembly lift lever operates hard?

Stop bolt not properly assembled and/ or adjusted. Assemble and adjust bolt properly, page 15-9.

What should you check if the control assembly lift lever is inoperative?

Broken control arms to spool. Replace lever and mounting bracket assembly.

What should you do before removing and disassembling the control valve?

Before removing and disassembling the control valve, be sure to check “Diagnosing Malfunctions,” pages 5-6 and 5-7 for all possible external causes of difficulty.

How do you remove the valve from the tractor?

Lower equipment to the ground and with the engine stopped, move the control lever up and down to release all pressure in the system. Wipe all dirt from connections on the valve body. Disconnect hoses at the valve body. Cap connections on the valve body and plug hoses. Loosen the idler, remove the drive belt, drive sheave, and key. Remove two mounting bolts. Twist the unit to disconnect the end of the spool from the control bracket arms, Figure 3, and remove the hydraulic unit.

What should you do before removing the valve assembly from the pump body?

Thoroughly wash outside of assembly with clean, safe cleaning solvent. Drain reservoir before removing valve assembly from pump body.

How do you remove the valve assembly from the pump?

Remove the valve assembly from the pump by removing the three cap screws, Figure 4, which hold the valve assembly to the pump back plate. Discard O-rings between the valve body and pump back plate.

How do you disassemble the valve?

Rest the small diameter of the spool end on a partially closed vise and very carefully remove the cross pin, Figure 5.

How do you remove the valve spool from the valve body?

Remove the cap and snap ring from the valve body. Pull the valve spool out of the spring end of the valve body, Figure 6. Remove and discard O-rings from inside the diameter of each end of the spool bore, Figure 7. With a large screwdriver or impact tool, loosen and remove the plug, lift check spring, and plunger. Discard O-ring from slotted plug.

How do you remove the spool centering springs?

Do not remove the bolt from the spool unless the springs are broken. Insert a punch through the hole in the spool and clamp the spool in a vise with soft jaws, Figure 8. Apply heat to the threaded end of the spool, Figure B, before attempting to remove the shoulder bolt from the spool. Clean and dry all parts thoroughly and inspect parts for wear and damage. Clean O-ring grooves in valve body of all foreign matter, Figure 7.

How do you inspect the valve housing?

Check the valve housing for cracks or damaged threads. Inspect inside diameter of valve for scratches or excessive wear, Figure 9. Inspect the lift check seat in the body for damage Figure 9. It is important that the lift check seat be smooth.

How do you inspect the spool plunger and springs?

Remove burrs from the spool with fine emery cloth. Inspect spool for wear, scratches, or other damage. The housing and spool must always be replaced as a matched assembly. Inspect lift check plunger, Figure 10, for scratches or unevenness of seating surface. Whenever the lift check seat is scratched or pitted, dress the seat surface until the plunger seating area is smooth and even. Inspect inner and outer spool centering springs for breakage or excessive weakness. Replace weak or broken springs.

How do you assemble the valve?

Apply oil to new O-rings and install in valve body, Figure 11. Always use new O-rings.

How do you install the lift check plug?

Install a new O-ring on the lift check plug, Figure 12. If the lift check plunger or spring is damaged, replace them. Install the lift check plunger and lift check spring in the valve body and secure them with the lift check plug, Figure 12. Tighten the plug firmly.

How do you install the spool?

If the valve housing is to be replaced, a new spool must be used because the valve body and spool are a matched assembly. If spool centering springs are broken or show signs of cracking, use new springs. If the spool has been disassembled, place the spool in a vise with soft jaws and secure inner and outer springs to the spool with washers and shoulder bolt, Figure 13. Apply Loctite or equivalent to threads of shoulder bolt. Refer to torque specifications on page 10-7 and torque spool centering spring bolt accordingly. Apply grease to O-rings in spool and insert spool assembly from spring end of valve body, Figure 14. Insert spool slowly while rotating spool so as not to cut O-ring as spool passes through ring. Secure spool assembly in valve body with snap ring, Figure 15. Place cap on spring end of valve body. Rest the small end of the spool on a partially closed vise, Figure 16, and install cross pin. Wipe a light film of clean grease on O-rings and place O-rings on valve body, Figure 17.

How do you install the valve assembly on the pump?

With new O-rings between the valve body and back plate, secure the valve assembly to the pump backplate with three cap screws, Figure 18. Refer to the torque chart Section 10, “Specifications,” and tighten the three cap screws accordingly. Place new O-rings on connectors and screw connectors into valve body, Figure 19. Tighten connectors firmly.

How do you install the valve on the tractor?

Position the hydraulic base on the engine making sure washers and fiber washers are positioned as shown in the inset, Figure 20. Position the end of the spool in the lever arms and secure the front plate to the bracket with two bolts, lock washers, and nuts, Figure 21. Install key in shaft, install sheave on shaft and secure with elastic stop nut. Install drive belt. Adjust drive belt tension, page 15-8. Refer to Figure 2 and connect hoses to valve assembly. Fill the reservoir with fluid, page 5-3. Refer to Section 10 for Hydraulic System capacity.

What are the torque specifications for the valve hardware?

Spool shoulder bolt: 60-65 in. lbs
Valve body cap screws: 7-10 ft. lbs

What special tool is required for valve repair?

Retaining Ring Pliers OTC 1120, for removing the snap ring from the valve body.

How do you remove the pump from the tractor?

Refer to page 10-2 to remove the pump, valve, and reservoir assembly from the tractor. The control valve requires removal only when the back plate is being replaced.

How do you install the baffle plate?

If oil is spewing from the filler-breather plug, it is not necessary to separate the pump to correct this condition. Correct oil spewing on earlier models by installing a baffle, Figure 4, over the return port. The baffle, including assembly instructions, is available as a parts item.

How do you separate the pump?

Before separating the pump assembly, scribe a clear line across the outside of the pump assembly, Figure 5. This will assure proper reassembly. Remove reservoir and four 12-point cap screws. Tap against the front plate, Figure 5, to separate the front plate, body, and back plate. Do not use sharp tools or a screwdriver to separate parts. Place a screwdriver under the diaphragm seal, Figure 6, being careful not to damage the front plate. Lift the diaphragm seal and gaskets from the plate. Discard the diaphragm seal and gaskets.

What should you do if relief valve seat is necessary?

When relief valve seat removal is necessary, refer to Figure 7. Apply Loctite or equivalent to back plate and use a screw driver to drive seat into specified depth.

What should you inspect on the hydraulic pump?

Wash all parts in a clean, safe solvent, and dry thoroughly with compressed air. Inspect drive gear and idler gear shafts at the wear point. Replace the drive gear and idler gear shafts if the wear is beyond specifications. Inspect the faces of the gear pockets for scoring and excessive wear. Inspect the condition of the diaphragm and protector gaskets. Replace the gear shafts if the wear is beyond specifications. Replace front plate if necessary. Small scratches and some wear patterns should be considered normal and will not affect pump operation. Check plate wear, Figure 10. If gear pockets or gear shafts are scored or worn beyond specifications, replace the body. Inspect the condition of the relief valve adapter and spring, Figure 12. Replace parts showing abnormal wear.

How do you assemble the hydraulic pump?

Dip the seal in light, clean oil and place it in the front plate with the “V” groove down. Drop the steel ball into the groove over the balls. Install the protector gasket, backup gasket, and diaphragm in the plate with the coined indents on the suction side. Insert dowel pins in the front plate. Dip gear assemblies in light, clean oil and slip into front plate bearings, Figure 15. Apply a thin layer of “Copper Coat” or equivalent to both milled surfaces of body. Slip body over gears onto front plate. Half-moon port cavities in the body must face away from the front plate and scribe lines should be aligned, Figure 16. The cavity with the small hole drilled in it must be on the pressure side of the pump. Place the front plate and gear assembly onto the back plate and press in place with hands, Figure 17. Check to be sure scribe lines are aligned. Place new aluminum washers over the four 12-point cap screws. Install cap screws through the back plate and secure the front plate to the back plate, Figure 18. Refer to “Specifications,” page 15-10, and torque bolts. Place scotch tape over keyway in shaft. Oil seal liberally and work shaft seal over drive shaft. Tap seal in place with a deep well socket and hammer, Figure 19. The outer face of the seal should be flush with the outer edge of the front plate when the seal is in place.

How do you install the relief valve assembly?

Whenever the relief valve seat has been removed, refer to “Specifications,” page 15-10, for proper seat depth. Install seat in back plate as shown in Figure 7. Seat must be held in place with Loctite or equivalent. Clean threads and seat thoroughly before applying Loctite. Wipe off excess Loctite after positioning seal. After the relief valve seat is properly located, install the ball adapter and spring in the back plate. Place new O-ring on plug and secure parts with plug, Figure 20. See page 15-8 for pressure adjustment.

How do you install the filter and reservoir?

Refer to the exploded view, Figure 3, and install a new filter gasket and filter to back plate with two washers and two machine screws. Install new O-ring over reservoir mounting shoulder and carefully slide reservoir onto pump. Be sure the port in the reservoir is in the correct location, Figure 21. Secure the reservoir to the back plate with four washers and machine screws. Turn the filler plug loosely into the reservoir port. If the valve assembly was removed, see page 10-6 for correct assembly.

How do you install the hydraulic pump assembly on the tractor?

Install the assembly on the tractor. Refer to Figure 2, page 10-1 and connect the hydraulic hoses to the valve assembly. Fill the reservoir with fluid, page 5-3. Adjust drive belt tension and relief valve pressure as explained on this page.

How do you adjust drive belt tension?

Loosen the idler bolt and move the idler against the belt until a 3 to 4-pound pressure midway between the sheaves deflects the belt 1/2 inch. Tighten the idler nut firmly to maintain proper belt tension.

How do you adjust relief valve pressure?

A pressure gauge having sufficient capacity must be used to obtain proper relief valve pressure. Excessive pressure can do severe damage to various components, thus voiding warranty. Add or remove shims as necessary until 800 (-0 + 100) psi is obtained. Always follow instructions supplied by test equipment manufacturer. See page 5-5 for hydraulic test equipment.

How do you adjust the lift lever stop?

Loosen jam nuts on outer stop and move lift lever to full raised position. Position head end of bolt in bottom of slot in inner stop. Be sure to keep 1/32 to 1/16-inch clearance between the bolt head and inner stop. Tighten nuts. Allow lift lever to return to neutral position. Check for equal travel of lift lever in both raised and lowered position.

How do you reverse the direction of lift?

Hydraulic lines are connected at the factory to permit the equipment to raise when the lift lever is raised and lower when the lift lever is lowered. If, for any reason, you wish to reverse the lifting direction, disconnect hydraulic lines at the pump, Figure 23, and reverse the lines.

What are the hydraulic pump torque specifications?

12-Point Cap Screws: 7-10 ft-lbs
Relief Valve Plug: 20-25 ft-lbs

What special tools are required for hydraulic pump repair?

0-1 Micrometer
Telescope Gauge
Hydraulic Tester
In-Line Hydraulic Tester

How do you remove the cylinder?

Wipe all dirt from connections on valve body. Move the hydraulic lift lever up and down to release all pressure in the system. Disconnect hoses at the valve body. Cap connections on the valve body and plug hoses. Remove the pins attaching the cylinder to the tractor. Slip the pin from the head end of the cylinder through the tractor frame. Remove the hoses and cylinder as an assembly.

How do you install the cylinder?

Lightly clamp the cylinder in a vise with soft jaws, Figure 4. Screw the connector in the bearing end of the cylinder and tighten firmly. Connect the hose with two steel extensions to the connector on the bearing end of the cylinder. Position hose as shown in Figure 4 before tightening connection. The end of the hose with the most bend in the steel line connects to the cylinder bearing end with the least bend connects to port “B” on valve body after the cylinder is assembled to tractor.

How do you connect the cylinder to the tractor?

Insert pin through tractor frame, frame brackets, and cylinder. Insert cotter pins and spread ends, Figure 5. Insert pin through lower lift shaft arms, piston roll, and clip. Insert cotter pin and spread ends, Figure 5.

What should you do if the steering is loose?

Steering gear out of adjustment. Adjust steering gear assembly.
Worn steering arm (non-adjustable). Check condition of parts. Replace parts as necessary.
Loose steering arm (adjustable type). Adjust cone.
Cracked steering gear housing. Replace steering gear.
Loose ball Joint nuts. Tighten nuts firmly.
Worn ball joints. Replace ball joints.

What should you do if the steering is hard?

Tires not properly inflated. Inflate tires to recommended psi.
Steering gear not properly adjusted (too tight). Adjust steering assembly.
Tight spindles. Lubricate spindles. Repair or replace spindle(s) if necessary.
Tight steering arm, not properly adjusted and/or lubricated. Check condition of steering arm. Repair and/or replace parts as necessary.
Drag link installed incorrectly. Position drag link properly.
Bent spindle arm. Replace spindle. Adjust tie rods if so equipped.
Tight ball joint(s). Replace tie rod or tie rod end.
Incorrect toe-in. Adjust tie rods on tractors so equipped. Replace spindle if necessary. On others, replace spindles.

What should you do if the tractor turns shorter in one direction?

Spindle arm striking axle stop. Adjust axle stop screw. Do not allow inside of right-hand tire to strike intermediate assembly when the tractor is so equipped.
Drag link installed incorrectly and/or adjusted. Install drag link correctly and/or adjust.
Bent spindle and/or spindle arm. Adjust tie rods on tractors having adjustable tie rods. Replace spindle if necessary. On tractors without adjustable tie rods, replace parts as necessary.

What should you do if there is a leaky steering gear housing?

Damaged seal. Install seal and retainer kit.
Damaged retainer. Install seal and retainer kit.
Steering gear overgreased. Use less grease when lubricating steering gear.

What should you do if the tire strikes the tractor in turns?

Drag link not properly adjusted. Adjust drag link.
Bent spindle and/or spindle arm. Replace spindle.

What should you do if there is tire wear?

Wheels toed-out. Adjust to proper toe-in.
Bent spindle and/or spindle arm. Adjust tie rods on tractors having adjustable tie rods. Replace spindle if necessary. On tractors without adjustable tie rods, replace parts as necessary.
Bent axle. Check axle condition. Replace axle if necessary.
Tires not properly inflated. Inflate tires to recommended psi.
Drag link not properly adjusted. Adjust drag link.

What should you do if the steering column squeals when the steering wheel is twisted?

Loose clamp around jacket tubing in pedestal. Tighten clamp screws.
No tape around jacket tubing (clamp and bracket area in pedestal). Wrap jacket with adhesive or electrical tape and tighten clamp screws.
Lack of lubrication. Lubricate steering gear housing.

What should you do if there is excessive end play?

Loose adjusting plug. Tighten plug properly and spike threads. On later tractors, install cotter pin.
Bearings out of retainer. Install bearings in retainer.

How do you remove the steering wheel and steering gear?

Remove the steering wheel with a puller, Figure 9, or shock device. Using the wrong type puller will damage the steering wheel. Remove the battery from the battery base. Remove the clamp around the steering jacket in the pedestal. Disconnect the drag link, remove the cap screws holding the housing to the frame, and slip the steering gear out from below the tractor.

How do you disassemble the steering gear?

Loosen the jam nut on the tapered stud (22, Figure 8) in the lever arm. Turn stud counterclockwise until resistance is felt. Remove the nuts from the lever arm cross bolt (21, Figure 8) and remove them from the housing. Remove the plug in the steering gear housing and slide the shaft with cam and bearings from the column.

How do you inspect steering gear parts?

Wash parts in a clean, safe solvent and dry with compressed air and a clean cloth. Refer to Section 20, Group 15, to check bearing condition. Inspect the cam, housing, and plug for cracks, scoring, and other damage, especially in the bearing area. Replace parts showing excessive wear or damage.

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