VOLKSWAGEN SHARAN 2011 (02) PDF Document

Your VOLKSWAGEN SHARAN 2011 may be equipped with one of the following maintenance-free battery types:

Battery with magic eye: This is a maintenance-free wet battery with liquid electrolyte. It is equipped with a “magic eye” that provides information on the electrolyte level and the charge state through a colored display. Stickers should not be removed, and it should not be replenished with distilled water.

Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) battery: This is a maintenance-free lead-acid battery where the electrolyte is contained within a microscopic glass mat. It is sealed, fitted with valves, and does not have a magic eye. AGM batteries are identified by the abbreviation “AGM” on the battery. If you need to replace an AGM battery, it must be replaced with another AGM battery.

WARNING: Batteries where the magic eye is colorless or light yellow must not be checked or charged. Do not slave/jump start the vehicle as there is a danger of explosion. These batteries must be renewed.

When handling the battery in your VOLKSWAGEN SHARAN 2011, observe the following safety warnings and markings:

General Dangers:

• Only trained personnel should work on batteries.

• Battery acid is highly corrosive. Have a neutralizing solution (like soap solution) ready for acid burns.

• Leaking electrolyte can cause skin burns and corrosion on the vehicle.

• Gas formed during charging is explosive. Do not handle the battery incorrectly to avoid an explosion.

• It is prohibited to cause sparks, use naked lights, or smoke near batteries. Avoid electrostatic discharge by touching the vehicle body before touching the battery.

• Only work on batteries in well-ventilated rooms.

Safety Markings on the Battery:

1. Fires, sparks, naked flames, and smoking are prohibited. Avoid short circuits; never lay a tool on a battery.

2. Always wear eye protection when working on a battery.

3. Keep children away from acid and batteries.

4. Old batteries are hazardous waste and must be disposed of at a suitable collection center.

5. Never dispose of old batteries in household waste.

6. Danger of explosion. A highly explosive gas is produced when batteries are charged.

7. Always follow instructions on the battery and in the owner’s manual.

8. Battery acid is caustic. Wear eye protection and gloves. Do not tilt the battery, as acid can leak from vents.

To prevent damage to the battery clamps and terminals on your VOLKSWAGEN SHARAN 2011, please observe the following:

• Battery clamps should only be fitted by hand and without using force.

• Battery terminals should not be coated with grease.

• Fit the battery clamps so that the battery terminal is either flush with the clamp or protruding from it.

• Once the battery clamps have been tightened to the specified torque, do not tighten the threaded connections any further.

Before performing extensive tests on your VOLKSWAGEN SHARAN 2011, it is essential to visually inspect the battery’s external condition. This helps establish:

• If the battery housing is damaged: A damaged housing can leak electrolyte, which can cause serious damage to the vehicle. If you find battery acid leaks, treat affected components immediately with an acid neutralizer or soap solution.

• If the battery terminals are damaged: Damaged terminals can prevent proper contact with the battery clamps. When connecting clamps, ensure they are seated correctly and tightened to the specified torque to prevent wiring from burning and causing malfunctions in the electrical system.

Caution:

• The battery will be damaged if it is not secured correctly.

• Vibrations can shorten the battery’s life and may cause damage to cell plates or the housing, creating a danger of explosion.

• Always check that the battery is securely seated. If necessary, tighten the securing bolt to the specified torque.

The magic eye provides information about the electrolyte level and charge state of the battery in your VOLKSWAGEN SHARAN 2011. Before checking, lightly tap the magic eye with a screwdriver handle to dissipate any air bubbles that could distort the color.

For batteries with a “3-colour” display:

• Green: Battery is sufficiently charged.

• Black: Battery is partly discharged (charge state < 65%) or completely discharged.

• Colourless or light yellow: Battery must be renewed.

For batteries with a “2-colour” display (later models):

• Black: Electrolyte level is OK.

• Colourless or light yellow: Electrolyte level is too low. The battery must be renewed.

WARNING: Batteries where the magic eye is colourless or light yellow must not be checked or charged. Do not slave/jump start the vehicle due to the danger of explosion. These batteries must be renewed.

Note that the magic eye only applies to one cell, so an exact determination of the battery’s condition is only possible through a battery load test.

A current draw test helps to quickly determine the state of a discharged battery in your VOLKSWAGEN SHARAN 2011 and whether it needs to be replaced or can be fully recharged.

Test Requirements:

• The battery temperature must be at least +10 °C.

• You need a charger capable of outputting at least 30 A (e.g., VAS 5095A, VAS 5900, VAS 5903).

• You need a current pick-up clamp to measure the current draw.

Procedure:

1. Connect the battery to the battery charger and start the charging sequence.

2. Measure the charging current of the battery after 5 minutes.

Test Result:

• If the current draw (in Amperes) is higher than 10% of the nominal capacity (in Ah): For example, > 6.1 A for a 61 Ah battery. In this case, fully charge the battery and test it again. After charging, let the battery rest for two hours before performing another battery test.

• If the current draw is below 10% of the nominal capacity after 5 minutes: For example, < 5A for a 50 Ah battery. The battery must be renewed.

This test is used to assess the battery’s condition on stock and stored vehicles as part of prescribed maintenance.

Test Conditions:

The battery must not have been charged or discharged within the last 2 days.

Procedure:

Use a hand multimeter (e.g., V.A.G 1526 B) to check the battery no-load voltage.

Assessing Results:

A no-load voltage of 11.60 V corresponds to a 0% charge, meaning the battery is heavily discharged and has no capacity.

The support mode provides power to the vehicle’s onboard supply when the battery is removed or disconnected. This is useful for:

• Supporting the onboard supply without an installed battery.

• Conserving power when renewing the battery.

• Testing ancillaries without a battery.

WARNING: Batteries with a colorless or light yellow magic eye must be renewed and not charged.

Procedure:

1. Switch off the ignition and all electrical consumers.

2. Remove the battery.

3. Caution: When the battery is removed, ensure the positive terminal clamp does not contact body earth, and ensure the clamps do not touch each other.

4. Connect the red terminal clamp (+) of the charger to the positive terminal of the vehicle.

5. Note: For vehicles with a start/stop function, the black terminal clamp (-) must be connected to body earth, not the battery’s negative terminal, to avoid system malfunction.

6. Connect the black terminal clamp (-) to the negative terminal of the vehicle.

7. Check the setting on the charger to ensure it is switched to support mode.

8. Check the polarity of the charger unit cables.

9. Switch on the battery charger. It will start in support mode.

Ending Support Mode:

1. Switch off the battery charger.

2. Disconnect the black terminal clamp (-).

3. Disconnect the red terminal clamp (+).

4. Unplug the charger.

A battery is considered “totally discharged” when its no-load voltage is less than 11.6 V. Charger units like the VAS 5095 A, VAS 5900, and VAS 5903 can recognize this and initiate a gentle charging procedure with a low current.

Important Notes and Cautions:

• WARNING: Do not attempt to charge batteries if the magic eye is colorless or light yellow. They must be renewed.

• Caution: Frozen batteries should no longer be used. Totally discharged batteries freeze prematurely.

• The terminal polarity protection on some chargers is not active in this mode. Ensure you connect the terminal clamps correctly.

• The battery voltage must be at least 0.6 V for the VAS 5095 A to begin charging. Batteries with less than 2 V may not be recognized by the VAS 5900/5903 automatically.

• The battery must have a temperature of at least 10 °C.

General Charging Procedure (refer to your specific charger’s manual for details):

1. Switch off the ignition and all electrical consumers.

2. Connect the charger to the battery. For chargers like VAS 5900/5903, you may need to manually enter a special mode for totally discharged batteries (e.g., by pressing START/STOP for 5 seconds).

3. Select the correct battery type and voltage (e.g., 12 V).

4. Confirm the settings. The charger will then begin the charging sequence.

5. Follow the charger’s instructions for ending the charging sequence once complete.

The cruise control system (CCS) functions on your VOLKSWAGEN SHARAN 2011 are controlled by the engine control unit. Activation and deactivation must be performed using a vehicle diagnostic tester.

1. Connect the vehicle diagnostic tester to your vehicle.

2. Select the “Guided fault finding” mode on the diagnostic tester.

3. Using the “GoTo” button, select “Functions/component” and navigate through the following menu options in succession:

• Drive

• Engine code

• 01 – On Board Diagnostic capable systems

• Engine management/diesel direct injection and glow plug system

• Functions

• Activating and deactivating cruise control system (CCS)

4. Follow the on-screen instructions provided by the diagnostic tester to complete the process.

Your VOLKSWAGEN SHARAN 2011 uses several types of hose couplings. Here is how to handle them:

Type 1: Simple Push-Fit

• To loosen: Pull the two coupling sections apart (no securing device).

• To secure: Push the two sections together until you hear and feel them engage.

Type 2: Rotating Lock Ring

• To loosen: Rotate the lock ring (item 1) through 90° and pull off the hose connection.

• To secure: Push on the hose connection and rotate the lock ring back until it engages.

Type 3: Pull-Up Lock Ring/Clip

• To loosen: Pull up the lock ring (item 1) by approx. 1 mm and pull off the hose connection.

• To secure: Attach the hose connection and press the clip (item 1) in until it engages.

Type 4: Push-Lock Ring (Headlight Washer)

• To loosen: Push the lock ring (item 1) in the direction of the arrow and pull off the hose connection.

• To secure: Push and hold the lock ring, then push on the hose connection. Check that the securing clip has correctly engaged by trying to pull it off without the clip.

You can repair both smooth and corrugated washer hoses using available replacement parts.

Repairing a Smooth Pipe:

1. Cut the damaged section out of the smooth pipe at right angles.

2. Select the appropriate EPDM hose and cable ties from the electronic parts catalogue.

3. Cut the EPDM hose so that the ends of the smooth pipe can each be pushed about 10 mm into the EPDM hose.

4. Secure the repair joints with cable ties.

Repairing a Corrugated Pipe:

1. Cut the damaged section out of the corrugated pipe at right angles.

2. Select suitable end pieces and the correct sized heat-shrink piping from the electronic parts catalogue.

3. Use a hot air blower to heat one end of the corrugated pipe and push a connector into it.

4. Heat the other end of the corrugated pipe and push the other connector into it.

5. Cut a piece of heat-shrink hose so that it covers the ends of the corrugated pipe by about 20 mm on each side of the repair.

6. Push the heat-shrink hose over the corrugated pipe, join the connectors, and secure the repair joint with the heat-shrink hose.

Note: Repair points must not be subjected to pulling or bending forces.

Gas discharge bulbs operate with dangerously high voltage and require special handling procedures. Never change these bulbs if you are not familiar with the appropriate procedures and safety precautions.

High Voltage Danger:

• Control units and connectors for these light systems conduct lethally high voltage.

• Before working on any parts of the gas discharge headlights (marked with yellow high voltage symbols), you must disconnect the battery earth strap.

• After disconnecting the battery, switch the dipped beam on and off again to eliminate any possible residual voltage.

• When working on the system, ensure the lights cannot be switched on.

Pressure, Heat, and Radiation Dangers:

• H7 and gas discharge bulbs are under pressure and can explode if changed improperly, causing injury. Always wear protective goggles and gloves when handling them.

• The bulbs must only be operated inside the headlight housing.

• The glass of the bulbs can become very hot, creating a danger of burns.

• Avoid looking directly into the beam. The UV rays are much stronger than normal halogen bulbs, and the bright light can cause glare and temporarily impair vision.

Disposal:

• Gas discharge bulbs must be disposed of as hazardous waste. They contain metallic mercury (Hg) and traces of thallium. Never destroy them or dispose of them as conventional waste.

Caution: If excessive force is used on sockets without illumination, the retaining sleeve may be damaged. Only illuminated sockets can be removed with the puller T 40148. Sockets without illumination usually cannot be removed without being damaged.

Required Tools:

• Puller -T 40148-

Removal Procedure:

1. Remove the cigarette lighter or dummy plug from the socket if present.

2. Push the puller into the socket so that its locking lugs engage in the recesses inside the socket.

3. Pull the grip on the puller to release the locking lugs of the socket’s retaining sleeve.

4. Pull the socket out of the retaining sleeve using the puller. Take care not to stretch the wiring.

5. Pull off the socket connector.

6. To remove the puller from the socket, press the spindle on the puller and turn the puller body briefly to the left to release its locking lugs.

After Removal:

• Caution: When the puller is used, the socket’s retaining springs are pressed apart. After removing the socket, carefully press these springs back together. Check that the cigarette lighter remains in its removal position after a heating phase and is not ejected from the socket.

Installation:

Install in the reverse order of removal.

Note: On some vehicles, the illumination is provided by an LED that is permanently attached to the retaining sleeve and cannot be renewed separately. On other versions, the bulb may or may not be replaceable. If it cannot be replaced separately, the entire bulb carrier must be replaced.

Removal:

1. Remove the cigarette lighter socket from the vehicle.

2. Press the retaining lugs on the side of the socket and remove the retaining sleeve together with the bulb carrier.

3. Unclip the bulb carrier from the retaining sleeve.

4. Separate the two parts of the bulb carrier (in areas A and B).

5. Open part B of the bulb carrier.

6. Remove the light bulb in the direction of the arrow.

Installation:

Installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal.

When performing repairs to the vehicle electrical system, please adhere to the following guidelines:

• Always disconnect the battery earth strap before working on the electrical system.

• Before starting, identify and rectify the cause of the damage (e.g., sharp edges, corrosion, defective components).

• Soldering is not permitted for repairs to vehicle wiring.

• Only use approved wiring harness repair sets for repairs.

• Wiring harness repairs must be marked with yellow adhesive tape to indicate a previous repair.

• Crimp connectors must never be repaired. If needed, lay a new wire parallel to the defective one. After crimping, they must be shrink-fitted to prevent moisture ingress.

• Special instructions must be followed for repairs to airbag systems, CAN bus lines, and fibre optic cables.

• Screened wires must not be repaired; they must be replaced completely.

• For heat-resistant wiring (found mainly in the engine compartment), only use heat-resistant wiring for repairs.

• Carry out a function test after every repair. It may be necessary to interrogate and erase the fault memory.

WARNING: Faulty repairs to the airbag and seat belt tensioning system can cause malfunctions in the passenger protection system and may lead to the systems failing.

When repairing this wiring, please observe the following:

• Only use contacts, connectors, and wiring specifically designed for this purpose, available from the Electronic parts catalogue (ETKA).

• Only use the approved wiring harness repair set (e.g., -VAS 1978 B-).

• A maximum of two positions may be repaired in the wiring. More repairs increase resistance and can trigger faults.

• Crimp connectors must always be shrink-fitted to prevent corrosion.

• Do not incorporate the repaired section back into the vehicle’s main wiring harness. Mark the repair area clearly with yellow insulating tape.

• Repairs should be no more than 30 cm from the next contact housing.

• The wires to the triggering units (airbags) are entwined. This twine spacing (A = 20 mm ± 5) must be maintained on the repair lengths.

• Both wires in a pair must have the same length after repair.

• There must not be any section of wiring longer than 100 mm that is not twisted, for example, near the crimp connectors.

There is no provision for fibre optic cable repairs. In the event of damage, the entire fibre optic wiring harness must be replaced. When handling these cables, observe the following precautions:

• Avoid sharp bends in the fibre optic cable; the bend radius should be no tighter than 25 mm.

• Do not route fibre optic cables over sharp edges.

• The end pieces (lenses) must not be made dirty or touched with bare hands.

• Do not expose fibre optic cables to heat.

• Entwining two fibre optic cables or a fibre optic cable with a copper wire is not permissible.

CAN bus wiring consists of an unshielded, twisted two-wire line. When performing repairs, follow these rules:

• Both bus wires must have the same length after the repair is completed.

• When twisting the wires together, the length of each complete twist must be 20 mm.

• There must not be any section of wiring longer than 50 mm that is not twisted, for example, in the vicinity of the crimp connectors.

• Mark the area of repair with yellow insulation tape to make it easy to identify.

The color codes for the CAN bus wiring are as follows:

Aerial wires must not be repaired. Instead, a defective section must be replaced using a new connecting wire and two adapter cables.

Assembly Overview:

• Item 1: Adapter cable (approx. 30 cm) to connect to the first unit (e.g., radio).

• Item 2: Connecting wire (available in different lengths).

• Item 3: Adapter cable (approx. 30 cm) to connect to the second unit (e.g., aerial).

Installation Procedure:

1. Disconnect the defective aerial wire from its units.

2. Determine the routing of the defective wire and measure its total length.

3. To determine the length of the new connecting wire (Item 2) required, subtract 60 cm (for the two adapter cables) from the total measured length.

4. Obtain the required adapter cables and the calculated length of connecting wire.

5. Cut off the connectors from the old, defective aerial wire. The remainder of the old wire stays in the vehicle.

6. Connect the new adapter cables (Items 1 and 3) to the equipment in the vehicle.

7. Route and attach the new connection line (Item 2) in the immediate vicinity of the original factory routing.

8. Note: Do not kink or excessively bend aerial wires. The bending radius must not be below 50 mm.

9. Connect the connecting wire to the adapter cables.

10. Perform a functional test.

There are two methods depending on the length of the wire ends after removing the damaged section.

Method 1: Repair with One Crimp Connector (if wire ends are long enough)

1. Cut out the damaged piece of wiring.

2. Strip 6 – 7 mm of insulation from both wire ends.

3. Push a single crimp connector over both stripped wire ends.

4. Crimp the connector using the correct recess on the crimping pliers. The insulation must not be crimped.

Method 2: Repair with Two Crimp Connectors and a Repair Wire (if wire ends are too short)

1. Cut out the damaged section of wire.

2. Cut a new piece of yellow repair wire to the required length.

3. Strip the insulation (6 – 7 mm) from all four wire ends (two on the vehicle harness, two on the repair wire).

4. Use a crimp connector to join one end of the vehicle wire to one end of the repair wire.

5. Repeat for the other ends.

Shrink-Fitting (for both methods):

1. After crimping, use a hot air blower to shrink-fit the connector. This is essential to prevent any ingress of moisture.

2. Place the shrink element on the hot air blower nozzle.

3. Heat the crimp connector along a straight line, working from the middle outwards, until it is completely sealed and adhesive escapes from the ends.

Caution: When shrink-fitting, do not damage any other wiring or plastic parts.

Note: If repairing multiple wires, position the crimp connectors so they are offset slightly from each other to prevent the harness from becoming too thick.

General Procedure:

1. Disengage Secondary Lock: If the connector has a secondary locking mechanism (often a different colored piece like a slide, flap, or toothed element), it must be opened or removed first. This secures all wires in the housing.

2. Select the Correct Release Tool: Use the specific release tool designed for the contact housing you are working on. Using the wrong tool or force can damage the contact or housing.

3. Insert Release Tool: Insert the tool into the release port of the contact housing.

4. Release the Primary Lock: While the tool is inserted, gently push the contact’s wire further into the housing. This action, combined with the release tool, lifts the contact’s locking tab(s) away from the housing edge.

5. Remove Contact: At the same time, push the release tool in the direction of the contact housing and pull the released contact out from the back by its wire.

6. Remove Tool: Once the contact is out, the release tool can be removed from the housing.

This general process applies to round connectors, flat connectors (with one or two locking tabs), and special connectors. The specific release tool and the exact point of insertion will vary by connector type.

The VAS 6410 set is used to clean high-current electrical connections to ensure optimal contact and prevent faulty repairs.

Note: Do not use penetrating fluid, contact spray, or grease. Grey sanding pads are for light dirt and “soft surfaces”; red sanding pads are for heavy dirt and “hard surfaces”.

Cleaning a Ring Terminal:

1. Disconnect the battery.

2. Loosen the nut and remove the ring terminal.

3. Check for corrosion and dirt.

4. Select a suitable adapter and sanding pad.

5. Insert the adapter into the ring terminal and grind off corrosion with circular movements.

6. Caution: Do not abrade the tin coating excessively to the point that copper appears, as this can cause a faulty repair.

7. If necessary, use the deburrer to remove any punching burrs.

Cleaning a Threaded Connection (e.g., earth stud):

1. Disconnect the battery and remove the ring terminal.

2. Select a suitable adapter and sanding pad for the threaded connection.

3. Set the adapter on the threaded connection and grind off corrosion with circular movements.

Cleaning a Battery Clamp and Terminal:

1. Disconnect the battery.

2. Use the wire brush tool (e.g., VAG 1331) to clean the inside of the battery clamp and the outside of the battery terminal with circular movements.

After Cleaning (All Types):

1. Reassemble the connection and tighten the nut/clamp to the specified torque.

2. Apply a suitable anti-corrosion treatment.

3. Reconnect the battery and, if necessary, teach-in windows and recode control units.

Note: Do not repair or cut Lambda probe wires, as this can result in malfunctions. This procedure is for replacing a defective probe with a uniform replacement probe.

Procedure for LSF (4-pin) and LSU (6-pin) Probes:

1. Remove the defective Lambda probe from the vehicle.

2. Place the new uniform probe and the old defective probe next to each other, aligning the sensor housings so they are at the same height.

3. Tie back any excess length in the new uniform probe’s cable (approx. 50 – 250 mm) to match the length of the old probe’s cable. Secure the excess with cable ties.

4. Check that the connector housing on the new probe is compatible with the onboard supply side connector. On older vehicles, it may be necessary to replace the onboard supply system connector with the one supplied with the new probe.

5. Install the new Lambda probe in the vehicle.