VOLKSWAGEN POLO LIM RUS 2011 (01) PDF Document

To ensure long use of the battery in your VOLKSWAGEN POLO LIM RUS 2011, it must be checked, serviced, and maintained according to the specifications in the manual. Apart from supplying energy for starting the engine, the battery has other tasks: it acts as a buffer and supplies electrical energy to the complete electrical onboard supply of the vehicle.

When handling the vehicle battery of your VOLKSWAGEN POLO LIM RUS 2011, observe the following safety markings and regulations:

1. Fires, sparks, naked flames, and smoking are prohibited. Avoid sparks from electrostatic discharge when working with cables and electrical units. Avoid short circuits; never lay a tool on a battery.

2. Wear eye protection before commencing work on the battery.

3. Keep children away from acid and batteries.

4. Old batteries are hazardous waste and must be disposed of through a suitable collection center according to legislation.

5. Never dispose of old batteries in household waste.

6. Be aware of the danger of an explosion. A highly explosive gas is produced when batteries are charged.

7. Always follow instructions on the battery and in the owner’s manual.

8. Battery acid is very caustic. Wear eye protection and gloves. Do not tilt the battery, as acid can leak out of the gas vents.

To prevent damage to the battery clamps and terminals of your VOLKSWAGEN POLO LIM RUS 2011, observe the following:

• The battery clamps should only be fitted by hand and without using force.

• Battery terminals should not be coated with grease.

• The battery clamps should be fitted so that the battery terminal is either flush with the clamp or protruding from it.

• Once the battery clamps have been tightened to the specified torque, the threaded connections should not be tightened any further.

Follow this sequence to check the battery with a magic eye on your VOLKSWAGEN POLO LIM RUS 2011:

1. Perform a visual check of the battery’s external condition, terminals, and attachment.

2. Check the colour display of the “3-colour” or “2-colour” magic eye. Before checking, tap the magic eye lightly with a screwdriver handle to dissipate any air bubbles.

3. Perform a battery load test using a battery tester like VAS 5097 A or VAS 6161.

4. Depending on the test result, you may need to perform a current draw test.

WARNING: Batteries where the magic eye is colourless or light yellow must not be checked or charged. Do not slave/jump start the vehicle. These batteries must be renewed due to the danger of explosion.

To check an AGM battery on your VOLKSWAGEN POLO LIM RUS 2011, carry out the procedure in the following sequence:

1. Perform a visual check of the battery’s external condition, terminals, and secure attachment.

2. Perform a battery load test using a battery tester such as VAS 5097 A or VAS 6161.

3. Depending on the result of the battery test, perform a “current draw test”.

A visual inspection of the battery in your VOLKSWAGEN POLO LIM RUS 2011 is essential before performing extensive tests. This check establishes:

• Battery security: Ensure the battery is securely seated and the securing bolt is tightened to the specified torque. Vibrations can shorten battery life, damage cell plates, and potentially cause an explosion.

• Housing damage: Check if the battery housing is damaged. If electrolyte (battery acid) leaks out, it can cause serious damage to the vehicle. Treat any affected components immediately with an acid neutralizer or a soap solution.

• Terminal condition: Check if the battery terminals are damaged. Damaged terminals can prevent proper contact with the battery clamps. When connecting clamps, tighten them to the specified torque to prevent wiring from burning and causing malfunctions in the electrical system.

The “3-colour” magic eye on certain batteries for the VOLKSWAGEN POLO LIM RUS 2011 provides information about the electrolyte level and charge state. Before checking, tap the magic eye lightly to dissipate air bubbles for a more accurate reading. The possible displays are:

• Green: The battery is sufficiently charged.

• Black: The battery is partly discharged (charge state < 65%) or completely discharged.

• Colourless or light yellow: The battery must be renewed. Do not check, charge, or jump-start a battery with this display due to the risk of explosion.

For newer batteries in the VOLKSWAGEN POLO LIM RUS 2011, the “2-colour” magic eye provides information on the electrolyte level. The charge state can no longer be read from the magic eye and requires a battery load test. The possible displays are:

• Black: Electrolyte level is OK.

• Colourless or light yellow: Electrolyte level is too low. The battery must be renewed. Do not check, charge, or jump-start a battery with this display due to the risk of explosion.

To perform a battery load test with the VAS 5097 A tester, follow these steps. The battery must have a temperature of at least 10 °C.

1. Switch off the ignition and all electrical consumers.

2. If applicable, check the magic eye on the battery.

3. Check the low-temperature test current in amperes (A) according to DIN from the battery label. If the value is in IEC or EN/SAE, convert it using the provided table.

4. Select the low-temperature test current on the tester.

5. Select the appropriate measuring range (e.g., 380 – 499 A) with the ON/OFF and functions switch.

6. Connect the red terminal (+) of the tester to the positive battery terminal and the black terminal (-) to the negative terminal. Ensure a good contact.

7. Select the connection point (directly to battery or external test points) with the selection switch.

8. Press the start test button. The test program runs automatically, and the result is printed out after about 20 seconds.

9. If the unit does not start, recharge the battery and test again.

10. After the test, switch off the unit and remove the test terminals.

To perform a battery test with the VAS 6161 tester, follow these steps:

1. Switch off the ignition and all electrical consumers.

2. If applicable, check the magic eye on the battery.

3. Switch on the tester unit.

4. Connect the red terminal (+) to the positive battery terminal and the black terminal (-) to the negative terminal. Ensure the clamps have a good contact.

5. Select one of the following functions on the tester:

• Maintenance test: For new cars before registration or during stock maintenance.

• Service test: For regular service checks.

• Guarantee test: For warranty claims.

6. Follow the on-screen prompts, which may include scanning the vehicle VIN, selecting the test point (battery terminal or jump-start point), selecting battery type, and measuring temperature.

7. Start the test. The result is completed in about 10 seconds and printed out.

The following table explains the measures to be taken based on the battery test results from the VAS 6161 tester.

A current draw test is performed to quickly ascertain the state of discharged batteries and determine if they must be replaced or can be fully recharged. For the VAS 6161 tester, this test must be performed whenever the result “Perform current draw test” appears. For the VAS 5097A tester, the test is required for results of “Starting output sufficient,” “Starting output poor,” or “Starting output very poor.”

Test requirements:

• Battery temperature must be at least +10 °C.

• The charger must be capable of at least 30 A.

• Measure the current draw with a current pick-up clamp after 5 minutes of charging.

Test result:

If the current draw (in Amperes) is higher than 10% of the nominal capacity (e.g., > 6.1 A for a 61 Ah battery), fully charge the battery and test it again after a two-hour rest period. If the charge current is below 10% of the nominal capacity after 5 minutes, the battery must be renewed.

This test is used to assess the battery condition on stock and stored vehicles. The battery must not have been charged or discharged within the last 2 days.

1. Use a hand multimeter (e.g., V.A.G 1526 B) to check the battery no-load voltage.

2. Assess the result based on the following:

A no-load voltage of 11.60 V corresponds to a 0% charge, indicating the battery is totally discharged.

To charge the battery using the VAS 5095 A, ensure the battery temperature is at least 10 °C.

1. Switch off the ignition and all electrical consumers.

2. On the base of the charger, set the battery type switch to 2.4 V/C (volts/battery cell).

3. Connect the red terminal clamp (+) of the charger to the positive terminal on the battery.

4. Connect the black terminal clamp (-) of the charger to the negative terminal. For vehicles with a start/stop function and battery monitor control unit (J367), the black clamp must be connected to body earth to avoid system malfunction.

5. Switch on the battery charger.

6. The yellow charging indicator lights will illuminate. When the green “maintaining charge” light (4) illuminates, the battery is fully charged.

7. Switch off the charging unit.

8. Remove the charger terminals from the battery terminals.

The support mode provides power to the vehicle’s onboard supply when the battery is removed or disconnected. This is useful for power conservation when renewing the battery or testing ancillaries without a battery.

1. Switch off the ignition and all electrical consumers.

2. Remove the battery. Ensure no contact between the positive terminal clamp and body earth, or between the battery clamps.

3. Connect the red terminal clamp (+) to the positive terminal of the vehicle.

4. Connect the black terminal clamp (-) to the negative terminal of the vehicle (or body earth for start/stop vehicles).

5. On the charger, set the normal/support mode switch to “support mode”.

6. Check the polarity of the connections.

7. Switch on the battery charger.

To end battery support mode:

1. Switch off the battery charger.

2. Disconnect the black terminal clamp, then the red terminal clamp.

3. Unplug the charger.

The cruise control system functions are controlled by the engine control unit. To activate or deactivate the system, you can use a vehicle diagnostic tester.

1. Connect the vehicle diagnostic tester.

2. Select “Guided fault finding” mode.

3. Using the “GoTo” button, select “Functions/component” and navigate through the following menu options in succession:

• Drive

• Engine code

• 01 – On Board Diagnostic capable systems

• Engine management/diesel direct injection and glow plug system

• Functions

• Activating and deactivating cruise control system (CCS)

Your VOLKSWAGEN POLO LIM RUS 2011 may use several types of hose couplings. Here are the procedures for common types:

Type 1 (No securing device):

• To loosen: Pull the two coupling sections apart.

• To secure: Push the two sections together until you hear and feel them engage.

Type 2 (Rotating lock ring):

• To loosen: Rotate the lock ring (1) through 90° and pull off the hose connection.

• To secure: Push on the hose connection and rotate the lock ring until it engages.

Type 3 (Lifting lock ring/clip):

• To loosen: Pull up the lock ring (1) by approx. 1 mm and pull off the hose connection.

• To secure: Attach the hose connection and press in the clip (1) until it engages.

Headlight Washer System Type (Pushing lock ring):

• To loosen: Push the lock ring (1) and pull off the hose connection.

• To secure: Push and hold the lock ring while pushing on the hose connection. Check that the clip has engaged correctly.

To repair a smooth pipe (e.g., 5×1 mm or 6×1 mm diameter) on your washer system:

1. Cut the damaged section out of the smooth pipe at a right angle.

2. Select the appropriate EPDM hose (2) and cable ties from the electronic parts catalogue.

3. Cut the EPDM hose so that the ends (1 and 3) of the original smooth pipe can each be pushed about 10 mm into the EPDM hose.

4. Secure both repair joints with cable ties (1).

Working with gas discharge headlights involves lethally high voltage. Always follow these safety procedures:

• Disconnect Power: Before working on any parts marked with yellow high voltage symbols, you must disconnect the battery earth strap.

• Discharge Residual Voltage: After disconnecting the battery, switch the dipped beam on and off again to eliminate any possible residual voltage.

• Work in Housing Only: Never operate the gas discharge lamp control unit without a bulb installed. Due to high voltage (over 28,000 V) and temperatures, the bulb must only be operated inside the headlight housing.

• Eye and Skin Protection: The bulbs are under pressure and can explode. Always wear protective goggles and gloves. Avoid touching the glass with bare fingers. Do not look directly into the beam due to high UV radiation and glare.

• Professional Work: Never change bulbs if you are not familiar with the appropriate procedures, safety precautions, and tools.

Note: Only illuminated sockets can be removed with the puller T 40148 without damage. Sockets without illumination usually cannot be removed without being damaged.

Removing:

1. Remove the cigarette lighter or dummy plug from the socket if present.

2. Insert the puller T 40148 into the socket so that its locking lugs (1) engage in the recesses (2) of the socket.

3. Pull the grip (3) of the puller to release the locking lugs of the retaining sleeve.

4. Pull the socket out of the retaining sleeve using the puller. Be careful not to stretch the wiring.

5. Pull off the socket connector.

6. To release the puller from the socket, press the spindle (1) in direction B and turn the puller (2) briefly to the left (direction A).

Installing:

1. Install in the reverse order of removal.

2. After removing the socket, carefully press the socket retaining springs together and check that the cigarette lighter remains in its removal position after the heating phase to prevent it from being ejected.

Note: On some vehicles, illumination is provided by a non-replaceable LED. On others, the bulb carrier must be replaced with the bulb.

Removing:

1. Remove the cigarette lighter socket first.

2. Press the retaining lugs (arrows) and remove the retaining sleeve together with the bulb carrier.

3. Unclip the bulb carrier from the retaining sleeve.

4. Separate the bulb carrier in areas A and B, then open part B of the bulb carrier.

5. Remove the light bulb in the direction of the arrow.

Installing:

Installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal.

When performing repairs on the vehicle electrical system, please observe the following:

• Always disconnect the battery earth strap before working.

• Identify and rectify the cause of damage before starting a repair.

• Soldering is not permitted for repairs to vehicle wiring.

• Use the specified wiring harness repair set (e.g., VAS 1978 B). Wiring repairs should be marked with yellow adhesive tape.

• Crimp connectors may never be repaired; lay a new wire parallel to the defective one. After crimping, they must be shrink-fitted to prevent moisture ingress.

• Observe supplementary information for repairs to airbag systems, fibre optic cables, and CAN bus lines.

• Screened wires must not be repaired; they must be replaced completely.

• For heat-resistant wiring (found mainly in the engine compartment), only use heat-resistant repair wiring.

In addition to general wiring repair rules, the following must be observed for airbag and belt tensioner systems:

• Only use contacts, connectors, and wiring designed specifically for this purpose.

• A maximum of two positions may be repaired in the wiring. More repairs increase resistance and can trigger faults.

• Repairs should be no more than 30 cm from the next contact housing and must be marked with yellow insulating tape.

• The wires to the triggering units are entwined as standard with a twine spacing of 20 mm ± 5 mm. This spacing must be adhered to on repair lengths.

• During repairs, the wires to the triggering units must have the same length.

• There must not be any section of wiring longer than 100 mm that is not twisted, for example, near the crimp connectors.

Fibre optic cables cannot be repaired; the entire fibre optic wiring harness must be replaced if damaged. Observe the following precautions:

• Avoid sharp bends; the bend radius should be no tighter than 25 mm.

• Do not route fibre optic cables over sharp edges.

• The end pieces (lenses) must not be made dirty or touched with bare hands.

• Do not expose fibre optic cables to heat.

• Entwining two fibre optic cables or a fibre optic cable with a copper wire is not permissible.

CAN bus wiring uses an unshielded two-wire line with a cross section of 0.35 mm² or 0.5 mm². When repairing, follow these rules:

• Both bus wires (1 and 2) must have the same length.

• When twisting the wires together, the length of each complete twist (A) must be 20 mm.

• There must not be any section of wiring longer than 50 mm (B) that is not twisted, for example, near the crimp connectors.

• Mark the area of repair with yellow insulation tape to make it easy to identify.

The colour codes for CAN bus wiring are as follows:

Aerial wires must not be repaired, but replaced using connecting wires and adapter cables. A defective section between two components (e.g., radio and aerial) can be replaced as follows:

1. Identify the defective aerial wire section. Note that the total length can be divided by components like an aerial diversity control unit.

2. Pull the defective aerial wire connections off the units.

3. Measure the total length of the section to be replaced.

4. Procure two adapter cables (1 and 3, approx. 30 cm each) and a connecting wire (2). To determine the length of the connecting wire, subtract 60 cm from the total measured length.

5. Cut off the connectors of the defective aerial wire. The remainder of the wire stays in the vehicle.

6. Connect the new adapter cables (1 and 3) to the equipment in the vehicle.

7. Route and attach the new connecting wire (2) near the factory routing.

8. Connect the connecting wire to the adapter cables. Do not kink or bend aerial wires with a radius below 50 mm.

9. Perform a functional test.

To repair a break in a single wire:

1. If necessary, unbind the wiring harness.

2. Cut out the damaged piece of wiring using wire strippers (e.g., VAS 1978/3).

3. Strip the insulation from both wire ends by 6-7 mm.

4. Push a single crimp connector onto both stripped wire ends.

5. Crimp the connector using the correct recess in the crimping pliers. Ensure the wire insulation is not crimped.

6. After crimping, shrink-fit the crimp connector using a hot air blower to prevent moisture ingress. Heat from the middle outwards until it is sealed and adhesive escapes from the ends.

7. If the repair was in a wrapped harness, re-wrap the section with yellow insulation tape.

8. Attach the repaired harness with a cable tie if necessary to prevent noise.

This method is used when the original wire is too short after cutting out the damage, requiring an interlinked piece of repair wire.

1. Cut the yellow repair wire to the required length.

2. Cut the damaged section out of the vehicle’s own single wire.

3. Strip the ends of the vehicle’s wire and the repair wire by 6-7 mm.

4. Push a crimp connector onto one end of the vehicle’s wire and one end of the repair wire. Crimp them together.

5. Repeat the process for the other end of the repair wire and the other end of the vehicle’s wire.

6. Shrink-fit both crimp connectors using a hot air blower. When multiple wires are repaired, position the crimp connectors so they are offset slightly to avoid making the harness too thick.

7. Re-wrap the harness with yellow insulation tape and secure it if necessary.

Lambda probe wires should not be repaired. Use a uniform replacement probe.

1. Remove the defective Lambda probe.

2. Place the new uniform probe next to the old one so that the sensor housings are at the same height.

3. Tie back any excess length in the uniform probe’s cable (approx. 50-250 mm) to match the length of the defective probe and secure it with cable ties.

4. Check that the connector housing of the new probe is compatible with the onboard supply side connector. If not (on older vehicles), replace the onboard supply system connector with the one provided with the new probe.

5. Install the new Lambda probe in the vehicle.

The wires for an LSU probe must not be crimped or cut, as this will impair its function. The replacement procedure is similar to the 4-pin probe.

1. Remove the old Lambda probe.

2. Place both the new and old probes next to each other, aligning the sensor housings.

3. Tie back any excess cable length (approx. 50-250 mm) on the new probe to match the old one and secure with cable ties.

4. Install the new Lambda probe in the vehicle.