VOLKSWAGEN SHARAN 1996 (02) PDF Document

There are two main types of maintenance-free batteries described:

Battery with magic eye:

This is a maintenance-free wet battery with liquid electrolyte. No stickers should be removed, and it should not be replenished with distilled water. Only a visual check is necessary. The magic eye provides information on the electrolyte level and charge state through a colored display.

WARNING: Batteries where the magic eye is colorless or light yellow must not be checked or charged. Do not jump-start the vehicle. These batteries must be renewed due to the danger of explosion.

Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) battery:

This is a maintenance-free battery with a contained electrolyte and no magic eye. The electrolyte is contained within a microscopic glass mat. The battery is sealed and fitted with valves. AGM batteries are identified by the abbreviation “AGM” on the battery. An AGM battery should always be replaced with another AGM battery.

Dangers and Precautions:

• Only trained personnel supervised by a vehicle mechanic or electrician should work on batteries.

• Battery acid is highly corrosive. In case of acid burns, neutralize with a suitable solution like soap solution. Leaking electrolyte can cause skin burns and corrosion on the vehicle.

• Gas formed during charging is explosive. A battery may explode if not handled correctly. Never check, charge, or jump-start batteries with a colorless or light yellow magic eye.

• It is prohibited to cause sparks, use naked lights, or smoke near batteries. Always touch the vehicle body before touching the battery to avoid electrostatic discharge.

• Only work on batteries in well-ventilated and suitable rooms.

Safety Markings on Battery:

1. Fires, sparks, naked flames, and smoking are prohibited.

2. Wear eye protection.

3. Keep children away from acid and batteries.

4. Dispose of old batteries as hazardous waste through a suitable collection center.

5. Never dispose of old batteries in household waste.

6. Danger of explosion. Highly explosive gas is produced when charging.

7. Always follow instructions on the battery and in the owner’s manual.

8. Battery acid is caustic; wear eye protection and gloves. Do not tilt the battery.

To prevent damage to the battery clamps and terminals, observe the following:

• The battery clamps should only be fitted by hand and without using force.

• Battery terminals should not be coated with grease.

• The battery clamps should be fitted so that the battery terminal is either flush with the clamp or protruding from it.

• Once the battery clamps have been tightened to the specified torque, the threaded connections should not be tightened any further.

A visual inspection is essential to check the external condition, terminals, and proper attachment of the battery before performing extensive tests.

Performing the test establishes:

• If the battery housing is damaged: Electrolyte can leak out, causing serious damage to the vehicle. Treat any components affected by leaked battery acid immediately with an acid neutralizer or soap solution.

• If battery terminals are damaged: The necessary contact on the battery clamps cannot be guaranteed. When connecting clamps, tighten them to the specified torque. Incorrectly seated or tightened clamps may cause wiring to burn and lead to electrical system malfunctions.

Cautionary Notes:

• An improperly secured battery will be damaged.

• Vibrations shorten the battery’s life and can cause explosions, damage to cell plates, or damage to the battery housing from the clamping bracket.

• Always check that the battery is securely seated. If necessary, tighten the securing bolt to the specified torque.

The magic eye provides information about the electrolyte level and the charge state of the battery. Before checking, lightly tap the magic eye with a screwdriver handle to dissipate any air bubbles that could distort the display.

The three possible color displays are:

• »Green«: The battery is charged sufficiently.

• »Black«: The battery is partly discharged (charge state < 65%) or completely discharged.

• »Colourless or light yellow«: The battery must be renewed.

WARNING: Batteries where the magic eye is colourless or light yellow must not be checked or charged. Do not jump-start the vehicle, as there is a danger of explosion. These batteries must be renewed.

Note: The magic eye is located in only one cell, so its display applies only to that cell. An exact determination of the battery’s condition is only possible through a battery load test.

For newer batteries, the »green« color display for charge state has been discontinued. The magic eye only provides information concerning the electrolyte level. The charge state must be determined with a battery load test.

Before checking, lightly tap the magic eye with a screwdriver handle to dissipate any air bubbles that could distort the display.

The possible color displays are:

• »Black«: Electrolyte level is OK.

• »Colourless or light yellow«: Electrolyte level is too low. The battery must be renewed.

WARNING: Batteries where the magic eye is colourless or light yellow must not be checked or charged. Do not jump-start the vehicle due to the danger of explosion. These batteries must be renewed.

Performing the battery load test:

1. Ensure the battery has a temperature of at least 10 °C.

2. Switch off the ignition and all electrical consumers.

3. Check the magic eye on batteries equipped with one.

4. Check the low-temperature test current in amperes (A) according to DIN from the indications on the battery. If values are in IEC or EN/SAE, convert them using the table below.

5. Select the low-temperature test current on the tester using the selection switch.

6. Select the appropriate measuring range (80 – 379 A or 380 – 499 A) with the ON/OFF and functions switch.

7. Connect the red terminal “+” of the tester to the positive terminal of the battery.

8. Connect the black terminal “-” of the tester to the negative terminal. Ensure the test clamps have good contact.

9. Select the point of connection (directly to battery or to external test points) with the selection switch.

10. Press the start test button. The green LED will light up, and the test program will run automatically.

11. The test result is printed out after about 20 seconds. If the unit does not start, recharge the battery and test again.

12. Switch off the unit and remove the test terminals.

Note: Perform the test only once, as repeating it can falsify the result. The tester requires approximately 30 minutes to cool down before the next test.

Table: Cold Cranking Current Conversion

Use the following table to determine the necessary action based on the printout from the battery tester:

The VAS 6161 tester works on the principle of dynamic conductance acquisition and does not load the battery. The test is completed in about 10 seconds.

Performing the battery test:

1. Switch off ignition and all electrical consumers.

2. Check magic eye on batteries with a magic eye.

3. Switch on the VAS 6161 unit.

4. Connect the red terminal “+” of the tester to the positive terminal of the battery.

5. Connect the black terminal “-” of the tester to the negative terminal. Ensure a good contact.

6. Select one of the following functions on the tester:

• Maintenance test: Used for new cars before registration or in stock maintenance programs. Scan the vehicle identification number, select “On battery terminal” or “On jump-start point,” scan the battery barcode (or select type manually), measure temperature, and start the test.

• Service test: Select “Service test” in the menu, select “On battery terminal” or “On jump-start point,” select vehicle type, measure temperature, select battery type (“Normal”, “AGM”, etc.), select norm (“CCA”, “DIN”, etc.), and start the test.

• Guarantee test: Select “Guarantee test,” select “In vehicle” or “Outside vehicle,” select connection point, select vehicle type, measure temperature, select battery type, select battery capacity, and start the test.

7. The result will be displayed and can be printed out.

Evaluating Guarantee and Service Test Results:

Evaluating Maintenance Test Results:

A current draw test while charging helps to quickly determine if a discharged battery must be replaced or can be fully recharged. This test is required when the VAS 5097A tester shows results like “Starting output sufficient,” “poor,” or “very poor,” or when the VAS 6161 tester shows “Perform current draw test.”

Test Requirements:

• Battery temperature must be at least +10 °C.

• The charger (e.g., VAS 5095A, VAS 5900, VAS 5903) must be capable of outputting at least 30 A.

• The battery’s current draw must be measured with a current pick-up clamp.

Procedure:

1. Connect the battery to the battery charger and start the charging sequence.

2. Measure the charging current of the battery after 5 minutes.

Test Result:

• If the current draw (A) is higher than 10% of the nominal capacity (e.g., > 6.1 A for a 61 Ah battery), fully charge the battery and test again. After charging, let the battery rest for two hours before performing another battery test.

• If the charge current is below 10% of the nominal capacity after 5 minutes of charging, renew the battery.

Procedure:

1. Ensure the battery temperature is at least 10 °C.

2. Switch off the ignition and all electrical consumers.

3. Set the battery type change-over switch (on the base of the charger) to 2.4 V/C (volts/battery cell). This applies to all batteries.

4. Connect the red terminal clamp “+” of the charger to the positive terminal on the battery.

5. Connect the black terminal clamp “-” of the charger to the negative terminal.

6. Switch on the battery charger using the ON/OFF switch.

Monitoring the charge:

• The yellow charging current indicators light up. When only one yellow LED is lit, the battery is approximately 90% charged.

• When the green LED lights up, the charger has switched to “maintaining charge,” and the battery is fully charged.

After charging:

1. Switch off the charging unit.

2. Remove the charger terminals from the battery terminals.

For totally discharged batteries (voltage must be at least 0.6 V), the charger automatically recognizes the condition and initiates a gentle charging procedure with a low current.

The procedure is similar for both VAS 5900 and VAS 5903 chargers.

Charging Procedure:

1. Ensure the battery temperature is at least 10 °C.

2. Switch off the ignition and all electrical consumers.

3. Connect the charger plug to the battery charger. The last selected battery type will appear on the display.

4. Press the INFO button to set the operating mode. For a standard charge, select the symbol for “standard charge for wet batteries” or “standard charge for gel/absorbent glass mat batteries”.

5. Set the battery capacity (Ah) using the “Up” (↑) or “Down” (↓) buttons.

6. Connect the red terminal clamp “+” to the positive terminal on the battery.

7. Connect the black terminal clamp “-” to the negative terminal. The charger will recognize the battery voltage and begin the charging sequence.

Monitoring and Ending the Charge:

• At approximately 80-85% charge, the charger switches to “final charge” mode. A fourth bar appears in the display, and the battery is ready for use.

• At 100% charge, all bars appear in the display. The charger will switch to maintenance mode after about 1-7 hours.

• To end charging, press the START / STOP button.

• Disconnect the black terminal clamp, then the red terminal clamp.

• Pull the charger plug out of the battery charger.

Possible Faults:

• Displayed voltage not nominal: Press “Up” or “Down” until charging starts. If it already started, press START/STOP twice and then set voltage.

• Charger does not detect battery (voltage < 2V): Display remains unchanged. You must use the “charging totally discharged batteries” mode.

Support mode provides power to the onboard supply when the battery is removed or disconnected. It is used for power conservation when renewing the battery or for testing ancillaries without a battery.

Procedure:

1. Switch off ignition and all electrical consumers.

2. Remove the vehicle’s battery.

3. Connect the charger plug to the battery charger. The last selected mode appears on the display.

4. Connect the red terminal clamp “+” to the positive terminal of the vehicle.

5. Connect the black terminal clamp “-” to the negative terminal of the vehicle.

6. Press the START / STOP button for approximately 5 seconds. The menu “charging totally discharged batteries/support mode” will be activated.

7. Press the “Up” (↑) or “Down” (↓) button to set the respective battery voltage (e.g., 12 V).

8. Confirm the selected voltage with START / STOP.

9. A prompt will ask “is charger cable terminal polarity correct”. Check the polarity and confirm with START / STOP.

10. The battery charger starts in support mode.

End battery support mode:

1. Press START / STOP.

2. Disconnect the black terminal clamp “-” from the negative terminal of the vehicle.

3. Disconnect the red terminal clamp “+” from the positive terminal of the vehicle.

4. Pull the charger plug out of the battery charger.

General Description:

The functions of the cruise control system (CCS) are controlled by the engine control unit. Faults on the CCS are also output via the engine control unit.

Activating and Deactivating Cruise Control System (CCS):

To activate or deactivate the system, a vehicle diagnostic tester is required.

1. Connect the vehicle diagnostic tester.

2. Select “Guided fault finding” mode in the vehicle diagnostic tester.

3. Using the “GoTo” button, select “Functions/component” and navigate through the following menu options in succession:

• Drive

• Engine code

• 01 – On Board Diagnostic capable systems

• Engine management/diesel direct injection and glow plug system

• Functions

• Activating and deactivating cruise control system (CCS)

Different hose coupling types are used for the windscreen, rear window, and headlight washer systems.

Type 1 (Simple Push-Fit):

• To loosen: Pull the two coupling sections apart (no securing device).

• To secure: Push the two coupling sections together until you hear and feel them engage.

Type 2 (Rotating Lock Ring):

• To loosen: Rotate the lock ring -1- through 90° and pull off the hose connection.

• To secure: Push on the hose connection and rotate the lock ring -1- until it engages.

Type 3 (Pull-Up Lock Ring):

• To loosen: Pull up the lock ring -1- by approx. 1 mm and pull off the hose connection.

• To secure: Attach the hose connection and press in the clip -1- until it engages.

Type 4 (Headlight Washer System – Push Lock Ring):

• To loosen: Push the lock ring -1- and pull off the hose connection.

• To secure: Push and hold the lock ring and push on the hose connection. Check that the securing clip has correctly engaged.

Replacement parts are available for repairing both smooth and corrugated pipes.

Repairing Smooth Pipe (5×1 mm or 6×1 mm diameter):

1. Cut the damaged section out of the smooth pipe at right angles.

2. Select the appropriate EPDM hose and cable ties from the electronic parts catalogue.

3. Cut the EPDM hose so that the ends of the smooth pipe can each be pushed about 10 mm into the EPDM hose.

4. Secure the repair joints with cable ties.

Repairing Corrugated Pipe:

1. Cut the damaged section out of the corrugated pipe at right angles.

2. Select suitable end pieces and the correct sized heat-shrink piping from the electronic parts catalogue.

3. Using a hot air blower, heat the end of one piece of the corrugated pipe.

4. Push a connector into the heated pipe end.

5. Repeat for the other piece of corrugated pipe and the other connector.

6. Cut the heat-shrink hose so that the ends of the corrugated pipe are each covered by about 20 mm.

7. Push the heat-shrink hose over the corrugated pipe, join the connectors, and secure the repair joints with the heat-shrink hose.

Note: Repair points must not be subjected to pulling or bending forces. If the damaged section is longer than 20 mm, a new piece of corrugated pipe must be used.

Working with gas discharge bulbs is dangerous due to high voltage, pressure, and temperature. Always wear protective goggles and gloves.

High Voltage Dangers:

• Control units, connectors, and components conduct lethally high voltage (over 28,000 V during ignition).

• Before working on any parts, disconnect the battery earth strap.

• After disconnecting the battery, switch the dipped beam on and off again to eliminate any residual voltage.

• Ensure the lights cannot be switched on while you are working.

• Never operate the control unit without a gas discharge bulb fitted.

Pressure, Temperature, and Radiation Dangers:

• The bulbs must only be operated inside the headlight housing.

• H7 and gas discharge bulbs are under pressure and can explode if dropped or handled improperly, causing injury.

• The glass of the bulbs can become very hot, posing a burn risk.

• Avoid looking directly into the beam, as the UV radiation is much greater than that of normal halogen bulbs and can impair vision.

Repair and Disposal Notes:

• Do not touch the bulb glass with bare fingers; use clean cloth gloves. Fingerprints can burn onto the glass and reduce brightness.

• Always replace a bulb with one of the same type and designation.

• Gas discharge bulbs contain metallic mercury (Hg) and must be disposed of as hazardous waste at an authorized collection point. Never destroy them or dispose of them as conventional waste.

Caution: Only illuminated sockets (cigarette lighter) can be removed with the puller T 40148. Sockets without illumination usually cannot be removed without being damaged, as the puller cannot release the locking lugs.

Required Tool: Puller -T 40148-

Removal Steps:

1. Remove the cigarette lighter or dummy lighter from the socket if present.

2. Push the puller into the socket so that its locking lugs -1- engage in the recesses -2- inside the socket.

3. Pull the grip -3- on the puller to release the locking lugs of the retaining sleeve.

4. Pull the socket out of the retaining sleeve using the puller. Take care not to stretch the wiring.

5. Pull off the socket connector.

6. To remove the puller from the socket, press the spindle -1- in the direction of arrow B, then turn the puller handle -2- briefly to the left (arrow A).

After Removal: When the puller is used, the socket’s retaining springs are pressed apart, reducing their force. After removing the socket, carefully press the retaining springs back together. Check that the cigarette lighter remains in its removal position after a heating phase and is not ejected from the socket.

Installation: Install in the reverse order of removal.

Note: On some vehicles, illumination is provided by a permanently attached LED and cannot be renewed separately. On other versions, the bulb may be replaceable or may require the entire bulb carrier to be replaced.

Removal:

1. Remove the cigarette lighter socket first.

2. Press the retaining lugs on the retaining sleeve and remove it together with the bulb carrier.

3. Unclip the bulb carrier from the retaining sleeve.

4. Separate the bulb carrier in areas -A- and -B- as shown in diagrams.

5. Open part -B- of the bulb carrier.

6. Remove the light bulb in the direction of the arrow.

Installation:

Installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal.

Observe the following general notes before performing repairs to the vehicle electrical system:

• Always disconnect the battery earth strap before working on the electrical system.

• Before starting a repair, identify and rectify the cause of the damage (e.g., sharp edges, corrosion, defective components).

• Soldering is not permitted for repairs to vehicle wiring.

• Crimp connectors may never be repaired. If needed, lay a new wire parallel to the defective one. After crimping, connectors must be shrink-fitted to prevent moisture ingress.

• Carry out a function test after every repair. It may be necessary to interrogate and erase the fault memory.

• If possible, do not loosen any earth wires from the body to avoid the danger of corrosion.

• Screened wires must not be repaired; they must be replaced completely if damaged.

• For heat-resistant wiring (identifiable by its slightly matt and softer insulation), only use heat-resistant wiring for repairs.

Repairs to Airbag and Belt Tensioner Wiring:

• WARNING: Faulty repairs can cause airbag/tensioner failure or malfunctions in the passenger protection system. Only use specifically designed contacts, connectors, and wiring from the electronic parts catalogue (ETKA).

• A maximum of two positions may be repaired in the wiring. More repairs increase resistance and can trigger self-diagnosis faults.

• Crimp connectors must always be shrink-fitted to avoid corrosion.

• Repairs should be no more than 30 cm from the next contact housing and marked clearly with yellow insulating tape.

• The wires to the triggering units are entwined with a standard twine spacing of 20 mm ± 5 mm. This spacing must be adhered to during repairs. Wires must have the same length.

• There must not be any section of wiring longer than 100 mm that is not twisted (e.g., around crimp connectors).

Repairs to CAN Bus Wiring:

• An unshielded two-wire line (0.35 mm² or 0.5 mm²) is used for CAN bus wiring. Colour codes are as follows:

• Both bus wires must have the same length. When twisting the wires, the length of each complete twist must be 20 mm.

• There must not be any section of wiring longer than 50 mm that is not twisted.

• Mark the area of repair with yellow insulation tape.

There are two methods depending on the length of the remaining wire ends.

Method 1: One Repair Position (Single Crimp Connector)

Use this method if the wire ends are long enough to be joined directly.

1. Cut out the damaged piece of wiring using wire strippers (e.g., VAS 1978/3).

2. Strip 6-7 mm of insulation from both wire ends.

3. Push a single crimp connector onto both stripped wire ends.

4. Crimp the connector using the correct crimp recess in the crimping pliers. The insulation must not be crimped.

5. Place a shrink element for a hot air blower over the crimped connector.

6. Heat the crimp connector with a hot air blower, working from the middle outwards, until it is completely sealed and adhesive escapes from the ends.

Method 2: Two Repair Positions (Interlinked Wire)

Use this method if the wire ends are too short to join directly.

1. Cut out the damaged section of the vehicle’s own wire.

2. Cut a new piece of yellow repair wire to the required length.

3. Strip 6-7 mm of insulation from all four wire ends (two on the vehicle wiring, two on the repair wire).

4. Use two crimp connectors to join the repair wire between the ends of the vehicle’s wire. Crimp each connector to one vehicle wire end and one repair wire end.

5. Shrink-fit both crimp connectors as described in Method 1.

Note: When repairing multiple wires, ensure the crimp connectors are offset slightly and not directly adjacent to each other to prevent the wiring harness from becoming too thick.

To release contacts, you must first disengage the secondary locking mechanism, then the primary locking mechanism.

1. Disengaging the Secondary Locking Element:

The secondary locking element is a housing catch that secures all wires in the contact housing. It is usually a different color from the housing itself. It must be opened or removed before individual contacts can be released.

• Example 1 (Toothed Element): The housing catch is disengaged by removing a “toothed element” as indicated by an arrow.

• Example 2 (Flap): The housing catch is disengaged by opening a “flap” as indicated by an arrow.

• Example 3 (Slide): The housing catch is disengaged by detaching a “slide” as indicated by an arrow.

2. Disengaging the Primary Locking Element (Releasing Individual Contacts):

The primary locking mechanism fixes an individual crimp contact in the housing. Always use the correct release tool for the specific contact type.

• Round Connectors: Insert the release tool into the release port. Grab the wire and push the contact lightly into the housing. This lifts the locking tabs. At the same time, push the release tool into the housing and pull out the released contact.

• Flat Connectors (One or Two Locking Tabs): Insert the release tool. Push the contact lightly into the housing to lift the locking tab(s). Simultaneously push the release tool and pull out the contact.

• Special Connectors (e.g., Faston, GT 150/280): The principle is similar. Insert the appropriate tool to lift the locking tab or push the contact out directly. For GT 150/280 contacts, the tool is inserted under the locking tab and pushed to the limit stop, which ejects the contact.

Caution: Never use force to pull contacts out of the housing. Always use the correct release tool.

Note: Do not repair Lambda probe wires, as this can result in malfunctions. Do not crimp or cut the wires of an LSU probe. The procedure is similar for both 4-pin (LSF) and 6-pin (LSU) probes.

Procedure:

1. Remove the defective Lambda probe from the vehicle.

2. Place the new uniform probe and the old defective probe next to each other so that the sensor housings are at the same height.

3. Tie back any excess length in the uniform probe’s cable (approx. 50-250 mm) to match the length of the defective probe. Secure the excess cable with cable ties.

4. Check that the connector housing of the new Lambda probe is compatible with the onboard supply side connector. On older vehicles, it may be necessary to replace the onboard supply system connector with the new one supplied with the probe.

5. Install the new Lambda probe in the vehicle.