VOLKSWAGEN GOLF 2009 (05) PDF Document

The Workshop Manual for the VOLKSWAGEN GOLF 2009 electrical system is divided into the following repair groups:

27 – Starter, current supply, CCS

90 – Gauges, instruments

92 – Windscreen wash/wipe system

94 – Lights, bulbs, switches – exterior

96 – Lights, bulbs, switches – interior

97 – Wiring

To ensure a long life for the battery in your VOLKSWAGEN GOLF 2009, it must be checked, serviced, and maintained according to the specifications in the manual. Apart from supplying energy for starting the engine, the battery also acts as a buffer and supplies electrical energy to the vehicle’s complete electrical onboard supply.

For maintenance-free batteries, no stickers should be removed, and they should not be replenished with distilled water. Only a visual check is required.

An Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) battery is a maintenance-free, sealed lead-acid battery where the electrolyte is contained within a microscopic glass mat. It is fitted with valves and, due to the contained electrolyte, may not have a magic eye.

AGM batteries are identified by the abbreviation “AGM” on the battery itself. When replacing an AGM battery in your VOLKSWAGEN GOLF 2009, it must always be replaced with another AGM battery.

When working on the battery of your VOLKSWAGEN GOLF 2009, observe the following critical safety warnings:

• Untrained personnel should only work on batteries when supervised by a qualified vehicle mechanic or electrician.

• Battery acid is highly corrosive. Take measures to neutralize acid burns, for example, with a soap solution.

• Leaking electrolyte can cause skin burns and corrosion on the vehicle, potentially damaging safety-relevant components.

• The gas formed during charging is explosive. An improperly handled battery may explode.

• Batteries with a colourless or light yellow magic eye must be renewed. They must not be checked, charged, or used for a jump-start due to the danger of explosion.

• It is prohibited to cause sparks, use naked lights, or smoke near batteries. Avoid sparks from electrostatic charging by touching the vehicle body before touching the battery.

• Always work on batteries in well-ventilated and suitable rooms.

The safety markings on the battery provide the following instructions:

1. Fires, sparks, naked flames, and smoking are prohibited. Avoid short circuits; never lay a tool on a battery.

2. Wear eye protection before working on the battery.

3. Keep children away from acid and batteries.

4. Old batteries are hazardous waste and must be disposed of at a suitable collection center according to legislation.

5. Never dispose of old batteries in household waste.

6. Danger of explosion. A highly explosive gas is produced when batteries are charged.

7. Always follow instructions on the battery and in the vehicle’s manuals.

8. Battery acid is very caustic. Wear eye protection and gloves. Do not tilt the battery, as acid can leak from vents.

To prevent damage to the battery clamps and terminals on your VOLKSWAGEN GOLF 2009, observe the following:

• Battery clamps should only be fitted by hand, without using force.

• Battery terminals should not be coated with grease.

• Fit the battery clamps so that the battery terminal is either flush with the clamp or protruding from it.

• Once the clamps have been tightened to the specified torque, do not tighten the threaded connections any further.

To check a battery with a magic eye on your VOLKSWAGEN GOLF 2009, carry out the procedure in the following sequence:

1. Perform a visual check of the battery’s external condition, terminals, and attachment.

2. Check the colour display of the “3-colour” or “2-colour” magic eye. Before checking, lightly tap the magic eye with a screwdriver handle to dissipate any air bubbles that might distort the colour.

WARNING: Batteries where the magic eye is colourless or light yellow must not be checked or charged. Do not slave/jump start the vehicle! These batteries must be renewed due to the danger of explosion.

3. Perform a battery load test using a battery tester like the VAS 5097 A or VAS 6161.

4. Depending on the result of the battery test, you may need to perform a current draw test.

A visual inspection is essential before performing extensive tests on the battery of your VOLKSWAGEN GOLF 2009. This check helps establish:

• If the battery housing is damaged: A damaged housing can leak electrolyte (battery acid), which can cause serious damage to the vehicle. If acid has leaked, treat the affected components immediately with an acid neutraliser or soap solution.

• If the battery terminals are damaged: Damaged terminals can prevent a good connection with the battery clamps. When connecting, tighten the clamps to the specified torque. Poorly seated clamps can cause the wiring to burn and lead to malfunctions in the electrical system.

• If the battery is secured correctly: The battery must be securely seated. Vibrations can shorten its life and, in extreme cases, damage the cell plates or housing, leading to a risk of explosion. If necessary, tighten the securing bolt to the specified torque.

The magic eye provides information about the electrolyte level and charge state. Before checking, tap the magic eye lightly to dissipate air bubbles. The interpretation depends on the type of magic eye:

For ‘3-colour’ magic eye (older batteries):

• Green: Battery is sufficiently charged.

• Black: Battery is partly discharged (charge state < 65%) or completely discharged.

• Colourless or light yellow: Battery must be renewed. Do not check, charge, or jump-start due to risk of explosion.

For ‘2-colour’ magic eye (newer batteries):

• Black: Electrolyte level is OK. The charge state can no longer be read from the magic eye and a battery load test must be performed.

• Colourless or light yellow: Electrolyte level is too low. The battery must be renewed. Do not check, charge, or jump-start due to risk of explosion.

Note that the magic eye only applies to one cell, so an exact determination of the battery’s condition is only possible through a battery load test.

To perform a battery load test with the VAS 5097 A tester, follow these steps. The battery must have a temperature of at least 10 °C.

1. Switch off the ignition and all electrical consumers.

2. Check the magic eye on batteries that have one. Do not test if the eye is colourless or light yellow.

3. Check the low-temperature test current in amperes (A) according to DIN on the battery label. If the value is in IEC or EN/SAE, use the conversion table.

4. Select the low-temperature test current and measuring range (e.g., 380 – 499 A) on the tester.

5. Connect the red terminal clamp (+) of the tester to the positive battery terminal and the black terminal clamp (-) to the negative terminal. Ensure a good contact.

6. Select the connection point (directly to battery or external test points) with the selection switch.

7. Press the start test button. The green LED will light up, and the test will run automatically for about 20 seconds.

8. The test result will be printed out. If the unit does not start, recharge the battery and test again.

9. Switch off the unit and remove the test terminals.

Note: Perform the test only once, as repeating it immediately will falsify the result. The tester requires approximately 30 minutes to cool down before the next test.

If the battery values are shown in a standard other than DIN, use the following table to find the equivalent range for setting the battery tester for your VOLKSWAGEN GOLF 2009.

Based on the printout from the VAS 5097 A battery tester, take the following actions for your VOLKSWAGEN GOLF 2009:

To perform a battery test with the VAS 6161 tester on your VOLKSWAGEN GOLF 2009, follow these steps:

1. Switch off the ignition and all electrical consumers.

2. Check the magic eye if present. Do not test if it is colourless or light yellow.

3. Switch on the VAS 6161 unit.

4. Connect the red terminal (+) to the positive battery terminal and the black terminal (-) to the negative terminal. Ensure a good contact.

5. Select one of the following functions from the tester’s menu:

• Maintenance test: Used for new cars before registration or in stock maintenance programs. Scan the vehicle identification number, select the connection point (“On battery terminal” or “On jump-start point”), scan the battery barcode or select type manually, measure temperature, and start the test.

• Service test: Select “Service test” in the menu, select the connection point, select the vehicle type, measure temperature, select battery type and norm (CCA, DIN, etc.), and start the test.

• Guarantee test: Select “Guarantee test”, “In vehicle” or “Outside vehicle”, connection point, and vehicle type. Measure temperature, select battery type and capacity, then start the test.

The test completes in about 10 seconds, and the result is printed out. The tester does not require a cooling phase between measurements.

Use the following tables to assess the results from the VAS 6161 battery tester for your VOLKSWAGEN GOLF 2009.

Evaluating battery test results for guarantee and service tests:

Evaluating battery test results for maintenance test:

A current draw test is performed to quickly ascertain the state of discharged batteries.

Test requirements:

• Battery temperature must be at least +10 °C.

• The charger must be capable of outputting a charge current of at least 30 A (e.g., VAS 5095A, VAS 5900, VAS 5903).

• The battery’s current draw must be measured with a current pick-up clamp.

Procedure:

1. Connect the battery to a suitable battery charger.

2. Start the charging sequence.

3. Measure the charging current of the battery after 5 minutes.

Test result:

• If the current draw (in Amperes) is higher than 10% of the nominal capacity (e.g., > 6.1 A for a 61 Ah battery), the battery should be fully charged and tested again after a two-hour rest period.

• If the charge current is below 10% of the nominal capacity after 5 minutes, the battery must be renewed.

Checking the no-load voltage is done to assess the battery’s condition on stock or stored vehicles. The battery must not have been charged or discharged within the last 2 days for an accurate reading.

Procedure:

• Use a hand multimeter (e.g., V.A.G 1526 B) to check the battery’s no-load voltage.

Interpretation of results:

A no-load voltage of 11.60 V corresponds to a 0% charge, indicating the battery is heavily discharged and requires charging.

To charge the battery with a VAS 5095 A charger, follow these steps. The battery must have a temperature of at least 10 °C.

1. Switch off the ignition and all electrical consumers.

2. Check the setting on the battery type switch on the base of the charger. It must be set to 2.4 V/C (volts/battery cell).

3. Connect the red terminal clamp (+) of the charger to the positive terminal on the battery.

4. Connect the black terminal clamp (-) of the charger to the negative terminal. For vehicles with a start/stop function and battery monitor control unit (J367), the black clamp must be connected to body earth to avoid system malfunction.

5. Switch on the battery charger using the ON/OFF switch.

Monitoring the charge:

• The charging current indicators (LEDs 2 and 3) will light up yellow.

• When only LED 3 is yellow, the battery is approximately 90% charged.

• When LED 4 lights up green, the charger has switched to “maintaining charge,” and the battery is fully charged.

After charging:

1. Switch off the charging unit.

2. Remove the charger terminals from the battery terminals.

The procedure for charging with the VAS 5900 and VAS 5903 is similar. The battery must be at least 10 °C.

1. Switch off the ignition and all electrical consumers.

2. Connect the charger plug to the charger. The last selected battery type will appear on the display.

3. Press the INFO button to select the respective operating mode (e.g., standard charge).

4. In the display, select the symbol for “standard charge for wet batteries” or “standard charge for gel/absorbent glass mat batteries”.

5. Set the battery capacity (Ah) using the “Up” (↑) or “Down” (↓) buttons.

6. Connect the red terminal clamp (+) to the positive terminal on the battery.

7. Connect the black terminal clamp (-) to the negative terminal. For vehicles with a start/stop function, connect the black clamp to body earth.

The charger will recognize the battery voltage and begin the charging sequence automatically.

Monitoring the charge:

• At approximately 80-85% charge, the charger switches to “final charge” mode, and a fourth bar appears on the display. The battery is ready for use.

• At 100% charge, all bars appear on the display. The charger will then switch to maintenance mode.

Ending the charging sequence:

1. Press the START / STOP button.

2. Disconnect the black terminal clamp, then the red terminal clamp.

3. Pull the charger plug out of the battery charger.

The solar panel VAS 6102A is used for maintenance charging to support the onboard supply and prevent battery discharging.

1. Secure the solar panel (VAS 6102A) on the interior mirror (-1-).

2. Place the underside of the panel on the dash panel (-2-). It should not lie fully on the dash panel, but be positioned with the bottom edge for support to avoid discolouration.

3. Pull the attachment string tight so the panel is positioned close to the windscreen.

4. Connect the solar panel to the diagnostic connection in the vehicle.

5. Check the function of the solar panel. A green LED on the frame indicates its function; the brighter the LED, the higher the charging current.

To activate or deactivate the cruise control system (CCS) using a vehicle diagnostic tester, follow these steps:

1. Connect the vehicle diagnostic tester to your VOLKSWAGEN GOLF 2009.

2. Select “Guided fault finding” mode in the tester.

3. Using the “GoTo” button, select “Functions/component” and navigate through the following menu options in succession:

• Drive

• Engine code

• 01 – On Board Diagnostic capable systems

• Engine management/diesel direct injection and glow plug system

• Functions

• Activating and deactivating cruise control system (CCS)

Depending on the type of hose, follow the appropriate procedure:

Repairing a smooth pipe (5×1 mm or 6×1 mm):

1. Cut the damaged section out of the smooth pipe at a right angle.

2. Select the appropriate EPDM hose and cable ties from the electronic parts catalogue.

3. Cut the EPDM hose so that the ends of the smooth pipe can each be pushed about 10 mm into it.

4. Secure the repair joints with cable ties.

Repairing a corrugated pipe:

1. Cut the damaged section out of the corrugated pipe at a right angle.

2. Select suitable end pieces and the correct sized heat-shrink piping from the parts catalogue.

3. Heat the end of one piece of corrugated pipe and push a connector into it.

4. Heat the end of the other piece of corrugated pipe and push the other connector into it.

5. Cut a piece of heat-shrink hose so it covers the ends of the corrugated pipe by about 20 mm on each side of the connection.

6. Push the heat-shrink hose over the corrugated pipe, join the connectors, and secure the repair joint with the heat-shrink hose using a hot air blower.

Working with gas discharge (xenon) bulbs involves high voltage and requires strict safety measures. Always wear protective goggles and gloves.

Before working:

• It is absolutely necessary to disconnect the battery earth strap before working on any parts of the gas discharge headlights (marked with yellow high voltage symbols).

• After disconnecting the battery, switch the dipped beam on and off again. This will eliminate any possible residual voltage.

• Ensure the ignition is off, all electrical consumers are off, and the ignition key is removed.

During work:

• Never operate the gas discharge lamp control unit without a bulb installed.

• The bulb must only be operated inside the headlight housing due to high ignition voltage (over 28,000 V) and high temperatures.

• Avoid looking directly into the beam, as UV rays are significantly stronger than from halogen bulbs, and the glare can impair vision.

• Do not touch the bulb glass with bare fingers; use clean cloth gloves to prevent oils from impairing brightness.

• Gas discharge bulbs are under pressure and can explode if handled improperly, causing injury.

This procedure applies only to illuminated sockets (cigarette lighter) and requires the special puller T 40148. Sockets without illumination usually cannot be removed without being damaged.

Removing:

1. Remove the cigarette lighter or dummy plug from the socket if present.

2. Push the puller (T 40148) into the socket so that its locking lugs engage in the recesses inside the socket.

3. Pull the grip on the puller to release the locking lugs of the retaining sleeve.

4. Pull the socket out of the retaining sleeve using the puller. Be careful not to stretch the wiring.

5. Depending on the fitting location, a thrust piece (40148/1) may be needed. Pull off the socket connector.

6. To release the puller from the socket, press the spindle on the puller and turn the puller briefly to the left.

Caution after removal: With the socket removed, the retaining springs inside the sleeve are spread apart. Carefully press them back together and check that a cigarette lighter remains in its removal position after heating, to prevent it from being ejected.

Installing:

Install in the reverse order of removal.

To connect a vehicle diagnostic tester (such as VAS 5051) to your VOLKSWAGEN GOLF 2009, follow these steps:

1. Apply the handbrake.

2. For automatic gearboxes, move the selector lever to position “P” or “N”. For manual gearboxes, move the gearstick to the neutral position.

3. Switch off all electrical consumers.

4. With the ignition switched off, connect the vehicle diagnostic tester using the correct diagnostic cable (e.g., VAS 5051/6A) to the diagnostic interface (OBD port) in the vehicle. This is typically located in the driver’s side footwell.

5. Switch on the ignition to power the system and begin diagnosis.

When performing electrical repairs, adhere to these guidelines:

• Always disconnect the battery earth strap before starting work.

• Identify and rectify the root cause of the damage (e.g., sharp edges, corrosion) before repairing.

• Soldering is not permitted for repairs to vehicle wiring.

• Use only the approved wiring harness repair set (e.g., VAS 1978 B) for repairs.

• Mark wiring harness repairs with yellow adhesive tape. Do not integrate them back into the main harness.

• Crimp connectors must never be repaired. If needed, lay a new wire parallel to the defective one.

• After crimping, crimp connectors must be shrink-fitted using a hot air blower to prevent moisture ingress.

• Screened wires must not be repaired; they must be replaced completely.

• Use only heat-resistant wiring for repairs in high-temperature areas like the engine compartment.

• Carry out a function test after every repair and check the fault memory.

Faulty repairs to the passenger protection system can cause malfunctions. In addition to the general rules, follow these specific instructions:

• Use only contacts, connectors, and wiring specifically designed for airbag and belt tensioner systems, available from the electronic parts catalogue.

• A maximum of two positions may be repaired in the wiring for the airbag and belt tensioner system to avoid excessive resistance.

• Always shrink-fit crimp connectors to prevent corrosion.

• Repairs should be no more than 30 cm from the next contact housing and marked clearly with yellow insulating tape.

• The wires to the triggering units (airbags) are entwined. This standard twine spacing (A = 20 mm ± 5) must be maintained on repair lengths.

• Both wires in a pair must have the same length after repair.

• There must not be any untwisted section of wiring longer than 100 mm (B = 100 mm).

CAN bus wiring consists of an unshielded, twisted two-wire line. For repairs, follow these steps:

• Use repair wiring with the correct cross section (0.35 mm² or 0.5 mm²) and colour code. The colour codes are:

– Powertrain CAN, high wire: Orange/black

– Convenience CAN, high wire: Orange/green

– Infotainment CAN, high wire: Orange/violet

– CAN low wire (all): Orange/brown

• When performing repairs, both bus wires must have the same length.

• When twisting the wires together, the length of each complete twist must be 20 mm (A = 20 mm).

• There must not be any section of wiring longer than 50 mm (B = 50 mm) that is not twisted, for example, near the crimp connectors.

• Mark the area of repair with yellow insulation tape to make it easy to identify.

Aerial wires must not be repaired but replaced using a system of adapter and connecting cables. This example is for a wire between the radio and the aerial.

1. Pull the defective aerial wire connections off the units (e.g., radio and aerial).

2. Determine the routing of the defective wire and measure its total length.

3. Procure the required parts: an adapter cable for the radio connection (-1-), an adapter cable for the aerial connection (-3-), and a connecting wire (-2-). To determine the length of the connecting wire, subtract 60 cm (for the two adapter cables) from the total measured length.

4. Cut off the connectors of the defective aerial wire. The remainder of the wire stays in the vehicle.

5. Connect the adapter cables (-1- and -3-) to the equipment in the vehicle.

6. Route and attach the new connecting wire (-2-) in the immediate vicinity of the original factory routing. Do not kink or excessively bend the wire (bending radius must not be below 50 mm).

7. Connect the connecting wire to the adapter cables.

8. Perform a functional test.

There are two methods depending on the length of the wire after removing the damaged section.

With one repair position (if wires are long enough):

1. Unbind the wiring harness if necessary.

2. Cut out the damaged piece of wiring.

3. Strip 6-7 mm of insulation from both wire ends.

4. Push a crimp connector onto both stripped wire ends and crimp it using the correct recess in the crimping pliers.

5. Shrink-fit the crimp connector using a hot air blower, working from the middle outwards, until it is sealed.

With two repair positions (using an interlinked wire if original wire is too short):

1. Cut out the damaged section.

2. Cut a new piece of yellow repair wire to the required length.

3. Strip all four wire ends (two on the vehicle harness, two on the repair wire).

4. Use two separate crimp connectors. For the first connection, push one vehicle wire and one end of the repair wire into a crimp connector and crimp it.

5. Repeat for the other ends with the second crimp connector.

6. Shrink-fit both connectors. Ensure the connectors are offset slightly to avoid making the harness too bulky.

7. Re-wrap the repair position with yellow insulation tape and secure the harness with a cable tie if necessary.

To release contacts, you must disengage both the secondary and primary locking mechanisms.

1. Disengage the Secondary Locking Element:

The secondary lock is a housing catch that secures all wires in the housing. It is usually a different colour from the housing. It must be opened or removed before individual contacts can be released. Depending on the connector type, this can be a toothed element that is removed, a flap that is opened, or a slide that is detached.

2. Disengage the Primary Locking Element (Individual Contact):

The primary lock fixes the individual contact in the housing. Use the appropriate release tool from the release tool set (e.g., VAS 1978/35).

• General Procedure: Insert the correct release tool into the release port of the contact housing.

• Lightly push the contact’s wire further into the housing. This action lifts the locking tab(s) off the housing edge, allowing the release tool to disengage them.

• At the same time, push the release tool further in and then pull the released contact and wire out from the back of the housing.

• Remove the release tool once the contact is out.

This procedure varies slightly depending on whether it is a round connector, flat connector (with one or two locking tabs), or a special connector type like Faston or GT 150/280 contacts.

Lambda probe wires should not be repaired. The probe must be renewed. The procedure is similar for 4-pin (LSF) and 6-pin (LSU) probes.

1. Remove the defective Lambda probe from the vehicle.

2. Place the old and new (uniform) Lambda probes next to each other, aligning the sensor housings.

3. Tie back any excess length in the new uniform probe’s cable (approx. 50 – 250 mm) to match the length of the old probe’s cable. Secure the loop with cable ties.

4. Check that the connector housing of the new probe is compatible with the vehicle’s onboard supply side connector. On older vehicles, it may be necessary to replace the vehicle-side connector housing with the one supplied with the new probe.

5. Install the new Lambda probe in the vehicle.