VOLKSWAGEN GOLF 1998 (02) PDF Document

The main Repair Groups for the electrical system of a VOLKSWAGEN GOLF 1998 are:

27 – Starter, current supply, CCS

90 – Gauges, instruments

92 – Windscreen wash/wipe system

94 – Lights, bulbs, switches – exterior

96 – Lights, bulbs, switches – interior

97 – Wiring

When handling the battery on your VOLKSWAGEN GOLF 1998, observe the following safety precautions:

Untrained personnel should only work on batteries when supervised.

Battery acid is highly corrosive. Have a suitable neutralizing solution, like soap solution, available for acid burns.

Leaking electrolyte can cause skin burns and corrosion on the vehicle.

The gas formed during charging is explosive. Do not handle the battery incorrectly.

Batteries with a colorless or light yellow magic eye must be renewed and not checked, charged, or jump-started due to explosion risk.

It is prohibited to cause sparks, use naked lights, or smoke near batteries. Avoid electrostatic charging by touching the vehicle body before touching the battery.

Only work on batteries in well-ventilated rooms.

Always wear eye protection.

Keep children away from acid and batteries.

Dispose of old batteries as hazardous waste according to local legislation.

To prevent damage when connecting the battery terminals on your VOLKSWAGEN GOLF 1998, observe the following:

The battery clamps should only be fitted by hand, without using force.

Battery terminals should not be coated with grease.

The battery clamps should be fitted so that the battery terminal is either flush with the clamp or protruding from it.

Once the battery clamps have been tightened to the specified torque, do not tighten the threaded connections any further.

A visual check is essential to inspect the external condition of the battery on your VOLKSWAGEN GOLF 1998. This check establishes:

If the battery housing is damaged: Electrolyte can leak, causing serious damage to the vehicle. Treat affected components immediately with an acid neutralizer or soap solution.

If the battery terminals are damaged: Proper contact with the battery clamps cannot be guaranteed. Ensure clamps are correctly seated and tightened to the specified torque to prevent wiring damage and electrical malfunctions.

Also, check that the battery is securely seated and tighten the securing bolt to the specified torque if necessary. Vibrations from an unsecured battery can shorten its life and cause damage.

The magic eye provides information about the electrolyte level and charge state of the battery. Before checking, lightly tap the magic eye with a screwdriver handle to dissipate any air bubbles for a more accurate reading.

For batteries with a “3-colour” display:

»Green«: Battery is charged sufficiently.

»Black«: Battery is partly discharged (charge state < 65%) or completely discharged.

»Colourless or light yellow«: Battery must be renewed. Do not check, charge, or jump start these batteries due to explosion risk.

For newer batteries with a “2-colour” display:

»Black«: Electrolyte level is OK.

»Colourless or light yellow«: Electrolyte level is too low. The battery must be renewed. Do not check, charge, or jump start these batteries.

Note that the magic eye only applies to one cell, so a full battery load test is required for an exact determination of the battery’s condition.

To perform a battery load test using the VAS 5097 A, follow these steps. The battery must have a temperature of at least 10 °C.

1. Switch off the ignition and all electrical consumers.

2. For batteries with a magic eye, check its color. Do not test if it is colorless or light yellow.

3. Check the low-temperature test current in amperes (A) according to DIN on the battery label. If values are in IEC or EN/SAE, use the conversion table.

4. On the tester, select the low-temperature test current using the selection switch.

5. Select the measuring range (80 – 379 A or 380 – 499 A) with the ON/OFF and functions switch.

6. Connect the red terminal clamp (+) of the tester to the positive terminal of the battery.

7. Connect the black terminal clamp (-) of the tester to the negative terminal of the battery. Ensure a good contact.

8. Select the connection point (directly to battery or external test points) with the selection switch.

9. Press the start test button. The green LED will light up, and the test will run automatically.

10. The test result will be printed out after about 20 seconds.

11. Switch off the unit and remove the test terminals.

Perform the test only once, as repeating it can falsify the result. The tester needs about 30 minutes to cool down before the next test.

The following table explains the actions to take based on the printout from the VAS 5097 A battery tester:

To perform a battery test with the VAS 6161, which does not load the battery, follow these steps:

1. Switch off the ignition and all electrical consumers.

2. If applicable, check the magic eye on the battery. Do not test if it is colorless or light yellow.

3. Switch on the VAS 6161 unit.

4. Connect the red terminal (+) to the positive terminal of the battery.

5. Connect the black terminal (-) to the negative terminal of the battery. Ensure the clamps have a good contact.

6. Select one of the test functions: Maintenance test, Service test, or Guarantee test.

7. Follow the on-screen instructions, which may include scanning the vehicle identification number, selecting the test point (battery terminal or jump-start point), selecting the battery type (Normal, AGM, etc.), and measuring temperature by holding the sensor about 5 cm above a terminal.

8. Start the test. The result is completed in about 10 seconds and printed out.

The following table explains the actions to take based on the results from the VAS 6161 battery tester for guarantee and service tests:

A current draw test helps determine if a discharged battery can be recharged or needs replacement. Ensure the battery temperature is at least +10 °C.

1. Connect the battery to a suitable charger (e.g., VAS 5095A, VAS 5900, VAS 5903) capable of at least 30 A output.

2. Start the charging sequence.

3. Measure the charging current of the battery after 5 minutes using a current pick-up clamp.

Test result:

If the current draw (in Amperes) is higher than 10% of the nominal capacity (e.g., > 6.1 A for a 61 Ah battery), the battery is likely serviceable. Fully charge the battery and test it again after a two-hour rest period.

If the charge current is below 10% of the nominal capacity after 5 minutes (e.g., < 5A for a 50 Ah battery), the battery must be renewed.

This test is used to assess the battery’s condition on stock and stored vehicles. The battery must not have been charged or discharged within the last 2 days.

1. Use a hand multimeter (e.g., V.A.G 1526 B) to check the battery no-load voltage.

2. Compare the measured value to the table below to determine the necessary action:

A no-load voltage of 11.60 V corresponds to a 0% charge, indicating the battery is heavily discharged.

To activate or deactivate the cruise control system (CCS) using a vehicle diagnostic tester, follow these steps:

1. Connect the vehicle diagnostic tester to your VOLKSWAGEN GOLF 1998.

2. Select “Guided fault finding” mode in the vehicle diagnostic tester.

3. Using the “GoTo” button, select “Functions/component” and navigate through the following menu options in succession:

Drive

Engine code

01 – On Board Diagnostic capable systems

Engine management/diesel direct injection and glow plug system

Functions

Activating and deactivating cruise control system (CCS)

There are several types of hose couplings used in the washer system:

Type 1 (No securing device):

To loosen: Pull the two coupling sections apart.

To secure: Push the two sections together until you hear and feel them engage.

Type 2 (Rotating lock ring):

To loosen: Rotate the lock ring -1- through 90° and pull off the hose connection.

To secure: Push on the hose connection and rotate the lock ring -1- until it engages.

Type 3 (Pull-up lock ring):

To loosen: Pull up the lock ring -1- by approx. 1 mm and pull off the hose connection.

To secure: Attach the hose connection and press in the clip -1- until it engages.

Headlight Washer System Type (Push-lock ring):

To loosen: Push the lock ring -1- and pull off the hose connection.

To secure: Push and hold the lock ring, then push on the hose connection. Check that it is correctly engaged.

Repairing a smooth pipe:

1. Cut the damaged section out of the smooth pipe at right angles.

2. Select an appropriate EPDM hose and cable ties from the electronic parts catalogue (ETKA).

3. Cut the EPDM hose so that the ends of the smooth pipe can each be pushed about 10 mm into the EPDM hose.

4. Secure the repair joints with cable ties.

Repairing a corrugated pipe:

1. Cut the damaged section out of the corrugated pipe at right angles.

2. Select suitable end pieces and the correct sized heat-shrink piping from the electronic parts catalogue (ETKA).

3. Using a hot air blower, heat one end of the corrugated pipe and push a connector into it.

4. Repeat for the other end of the pipe with the other connector.

5. Cut the heat-shrink hose so that the ends of the corrugated pipe are each covered by about 20 mm.

6. Push the heat-shrink hose over the corrugated pipe, join the connectors, and secure the repair joints with the heat-shrink hose using the hot air blower.

Handling gas discharge bulbs requires special precautions due to high voltage, pressure, and temperature.

High Voltage:

Always disconnect the battery earth strap before working on any part of the headlight system.

After disconnecting, switch the dipped beam on and off again to eliminate any residual voltage.

Control units for light systems conduct lethally high voltage. Never operate the control unit without a bulb fitted.

Pressure, Temperature, and Radiation:

The bulbs may only be operated inside the headlight housing.

The glass of the bulbs can become very hot, posing a burn risk.

Avoid looking directly into the beam due to high UV radiation and the danger of glare.

H7 and gas discharge bulbs are under pressure and can explode if handled improperly. Always wear protective goggles and gloves.

Repair and Disposal:

Do not touch the bulb glass with bare fingers; use clean cloth gloves.

Gas discharge bulbs must be disposed of as hazardous waste and not with conventional waste, as they contain mercury and thallium.

Note: Only illuminated sockets can be removed with the puller T 40148 without damage. Non-illuminated sockets may be damaged during removal.

Removing:

1. Remove the cigarette lighter or dummy lighter from the socket if present.

2. Insert the puller T 40148 into the socket so that its locking lugs engage in the recesses inside the socket.

3. Pull the grip on the puller to release the locking lugs of the retaining sleeve.

4. Pull the socket out of the retaining sleeve using the puller. Be careful not to stretch the wiring.

5. Pull off the socket connector.

6. To remove the puller from the socket, press the spindle on the puller and turn the puller briefly to the left to release its lugs.

Installing:

Installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal. After removing the socket, carefully press the socket retaining springs back together and test that the cigarette lighter remains in its removal position after heating to prevent it from being ejected.

Note: On some vehicles, the illumination is a non-replaceable LED. On others, the bulb carrier may need to be replaced with the bulb.

Removing:

1. Remove the cigarette lighter socket from the vehicle.

2. Press the retaining lugs and remove the retaining sleeve together with the bulb carrier.

3. Unclip the bulb carrier from the retaining sleeve.

4. Separate the bulb carrier into two parts (areas A and B).

5. Open part B of the bulb carrier.

6. Remove the light bulb in the direction of the arrow.

Installing:

Installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal.

To connect the diagnostic tester, follow these steps:

1. Apply the handbrake.

2. For automatic gearboxes, move the selector lever to “P” or “N”. For manual gearboxes, move the gear lever to neutral.

3. Pull out the trim piece -1- to reveal the diagnostic interface.

4. With the ignition switched off, connect the vehicle diagnostic tester to the diagnostic interface -arrow- using the appropriate diagnostic cable.

5. Switch on the ignition.

6. Switch off all electrical consumers before starting diagnosis.

When performing repairs on the vehicle electrical system, please observe the following guidelines:

Always disconnect the battery earth strap before working on the electrical system.

Before starting, identify and rectify the cause of the damage (e.g., sharp edges, corrosion).

Soldering is not permitted for repairs to vehicle wiring.

Wiring harness repairs should be carried out using the specified wiring harness repair set (e.g., VAS 1978 B).

Repairs should be marked with yellow adhesive tape to indicate a previous repair.

Crimp connectors must not be repaired; instead, lay new wiring parallel to the defective section.

After crimping, connectors must be shrink-fitted using a hot air blower to prevent moisture ingress.

Observe supplementary information for repairs to airbag, belt tensioner, fibre optic, CAN bus, and aerial cables.

Screened wires must not be repaired; they must be replaced completely.

For heat-resistant wiring (found mainly in the engine compartment), only use heat-resistant repair wiring.

Perform a function test after every repair.

There are two methods depending on the length of the remaining wires.

With one repair position (if wires are long enough):

1. Cut out the damaged piece of wiring.

2. Strip 6 – 7 mm of insulation from both wire ends.

3. Push a single crimp connector onto both stripped wire ends and crimp it using the correct crimping pliers.

4. Heat the crimp connector with a hot air blower, working from the middle outwards, until it is sealed and adhesive escapes from the ends.

With two repair positions (using an interlinked repair wire):

1. Cut out the damaged section of wire.

2. Cut a new piece of yellow repair wire to the required length.

3. Strip the insulation from all four wire ends (two on the vehicle harness, two on the repair wire).

4. Use a crimp connector to join one end of the vehicle wire to one end of the repair wire. Crimp it securely.

5. Repeat for the other end of the repair wire and the other vehicle wire.

6. Shrink-fit both crimp connectors using a hot air blower.

When multiple wires are repaired, stagger the crimp connectors to prevent the harness from becoming too thick.

To release contacts from housings, always use the correct release tools to avoid damage.

1. Disengage the Secondary Locking Element:

Many contact housings have a secondary lock, which is a different color from the main housing. This must be opened or removed before individual contacts can be released. This can be a toothed element that is removed, a flap that is opened, or a slide that is detached.

2. Disengage the Primary Locking Element:

The primary lock fixes an individual crimp contact in the housing.

Insert the appropriate release tool into the release port of the contact housing.

Gently push the wire into the housing. This helps lift the locking tabs off the housing edge.

At the same time, push the release tool further into the housing to disengage the contact.

Pull the released contact and wire out from the back of the housing.

Remove the release tool.

This set is used to clean threaded connections and ring terminals in the high-current circuit.

Repairing Ring Terminals:

1. Disconnect the battery.

2. Loosen the cap nut and remove the ring terminal from the threaded connection.

3. Check the terminal for corrosion and dirt.

4. Select a suitable adapter and sanding pad (grey for light dirt, red for heavy dirt).

5. Insert the adapter into the ring terminal and grind off corrosion with circular movements. Do not abrade excessively to expose the copper underneath.

6. If necessary, remove any punching burr with the deburrer.

Repairing Threaded Connections:

1. Follow steps 1-3 above.

2. Set the adapter on the threaded connection and grind off corrosion with circular movements.

Final Steps for Both:

1. Tighten the ring terminal/connection to the specified torque.

2. Apply a suitable anti-corrosion treatment.

3. Reconnect the battery and teach-in any necessary systems (windows, radio code, etc.).

Do not attempt to repair Lambda probe wires, as this can result in malfunctions. The entire probe must be renewed.

For both 4-pin (LSF) and 6-pin (LSU) probes:

1. Remove the defective Lambda probe from the vehicle.

2. Place the old probe and the new uniform probe next to each other, aligning the sensor housings.

3. Tie back any excess length in the new probe’s cable (approx. 50 – 250 mm) to match the length of the old probe and secure with cable ties.

4. Check that the connector housing of the new probe is compatible with the onboard supply side connector. On older vehicles, it may be necessary to replace the vehicle-side connector with the one supplied with the new probe.

5. Install the new Lambda probe in the vehicle.