VOLKSWAGEN JETTA 2005 (11) PDF Document

To calculate the overall gear ratio “i” on your VOLKSWAGEN JETTA 2005, you need the number of teeth on the drive gear and the driven gear for both the specific gear and the final drive. The formula is i = Z2 : Z1, where Z1 is the number of teeth on the driving gear and Z2 is the number of teeth on the driven gear.

Here is an example calculation:

Example Data:

Calculation Steps:

1. Calculate the Gear Ratio (iG): iG = ZG2 : ZG1 = 50 : 37 = 0.740

2. Calculate the Final Drive Ratio (iA): iA = ZA2 : ZA1 = 69 : 14 = 4.929

3. Calculate the Overall Ratio (total ratio): Overall ratio = iG x iA = 0.740 x 4.929 = 3.647

When performing repairs on the gearbox of your VOLKSWAGEN JETTA 2005, adhere to the following general notes:

Gearbox:

• When installing the manual gearbox, ensure that the dowel sleeves between the engine and gearbox are correctly seated.

• When installing mounting brackets or waxed components, clean the contact surfaces. Contact surfaces must be free of wax and grease.

• Allocate bolts and other components using the Electronic parts catalogue “ETKA”.

• Following installation, check the gear oil level.

O-rings, seals, gaskets and sealants:

• Thoroughly clean housing joint surfaces before applying sealant.

• Apply sealant -AMV 188 200 03- uniformly but not too thick.

• Renew O-rings, seals and gaskets.

• When seals have been removed, check the contact surface on housings or shafts for burrs and damage and rectify as necessary.

• Before installing radial shaft seals, lightly oil the outer diameter and half-fill the space between the sealing lips with sealing grease -G 052 128 A1-.

• The open side of the oil seal faces the side with fluid filling.

• Press in new oil seals so that the sealing lip does not contact the shaft in the same place as the old seal (make use of insertion depth tolerances).

• Lightly oil O-rings before installing; this prevents the rings from being crushed when inserted.

• After renewing seals and gaskets, check the oil level in the gearbox and replenish if necessary.

Locking Devices:

• Do not overstretch retaining rings.

• Always renew retaining rings that have been damaged or overstretched.

• Retaining rings must locate properly in grooves.

• Renew spring pins. The installation position slit should be in line with the line of force.

Nuts and Bolts:

• Loosen nuts or bolts in the order opposite to the tightening sequence.

• Securing bolts and nuts for covers and housings should be loosened and tightened diagonally in stages if no tightening sequence is specified.

• Do not cant delicate parts, such as clutch pressure plates. Loosen and tighten bolts and nuts in stages in a diagonal sequence.

• Torque settings are specified for unoiled bolts and nuts.

• Always renew self-locking bolts and nuts.

• Threads of bolts secured with locking fluid must be cleaned with a wire brush. Then insert bolts with locking fluid -AMV 185 101 A1-.

• Threaded holes into which self-locking bolts or bolts coated with locking fluid are screwed must be cleaned (e.g., with a thread chaser) to prevent shearing upon subsequent removal.

Bearings:

• Install needle bearings with the lettered side (thicker metal) towards the fitting tool.

• Tapered roller bearings fitted to one shaft must be renewed as a set. Use the same make of bearings.

• Heat inner races to about 100 °C with an inductive heater (e.g., -VAS 6414-) before installing.

• Do not interchange outer or inner races of bearings of the same size. The bearings are matched in pairs.

Shims:

• Measure shims at several points with a micrometer to achieve the exact shim thickness required.

• Check for burrs and damage.

• Install only flawless shims.

Synchro-rings:

• Do not interchange. When reusing synchro-rings, always fit them to the same synchromeshed gear.

• Check for wear and renew if necessary.

• Check grooves of the synchro-ring and inner ring for flat spots (worn grooves).

• If synchro-rings are coated, the coating must not be damaged.

• If an intermediate ring is installed, check its outer and inner friction surfaces for “scoring” and “signs of abnormal wear”.

• Check the cone of the synchromeshed gear for “scoring” and “signs of abnormal wear”.

• Moisten the synchromesh mechanism with gear oil before installing.

Gears, synchro-hubs, inner races for needle bearings:

• Heat inner races for needle bearings to about 100°C with an inductive heater (e.g., -VAS 6414-) before installing.

• Heat synchro-hubs with an inductive heater to approx. 100°C before installing. Press in to stop when installing so there is no axial clearance.

• Heat gears with an inductive heater to approx. 100°C before installing. Press in to stop when installing so there is no axial clearance.

• Observe the installation position.

Synchromeshed gears:

• After assembly, check synchromeshed gears of 1st through 5th gear for slight play or for freedom of movement.

Clutch:

• When removing the gearbox, remove the slave cylinder without disconnecting pipes.

• If the clutch slave cylinder is removed with the hydraulic line attached, do not depress the clutch pedal. Otherwise, the piston will be pressed out of the slave cylinder.

• Ensure that the pressure plate does not cant: loosen and tighten bolts diagonally and in several gradual stages.

• If the clutch has burnt out, thoroughly clean the clutch housing as well as the friction surface of the flywheel with a cloth to reduce the smell of burnt linings.

You will need special tools: Release tool -T10178- and Torque wrench -V.A.G 1331-.

Removing:

1. If equipped with a knee airbag, first check for a coded radio and obtain the anti-theft code. Then, with the ignition off, disconnect the battery.

2. Push the driver’s seat as far back as possible and move the steering wheel to its highest position.

3. Remove the trim and cover below the trim on the driver’s side.

4. For vehicles with a knee airbag, remove the bracket for the knee airbag together with the crash bar.

5. Remove the cable guide from the steering column.

6. Remove the footwell vent.

7. Remove the crash bar in front of the clutch pedal (secured with either 1 or 2 bolts).

8. If fitted, remove the damping from the lower area of the clutch pedal mounting bracket. To do this, remove the lock washers and pull off the insulation.

9. Push the damping upwards in the area of the upper securing nut above the clutch pedal.

10. Unbolt the clutch pedal from the mounting bracket by removing the nut and pulling out the bolt. The clutch pedal remains hooked to the master cylinder operating rod.

11. Swing the clutch pedal down slightly and remove the over-centre spring from the mounting bracket.

Installing:

Installation is in the reverse order of removal. Observe the following:

• Renew all self-locking nuts.

• Insert the over-centre spring in the mounting bracket from above while holding the end of the spring with assembly tool -T10178-.

• The receptacle for the tip of the clutch pedal must stand vertically.

• Insert the tip of the clutch pedal into the bearing recess of the over-centre spring.

• Depress the clutch pedal slightly, push the bolt through, and tighten the self-locking nut to the specified torque.

• If your vehicle has damping on the clutch pedal mounting bracket, return it to its installation position.

• Reinstall the crash bar, footwell vent, cable guide, and any trim or knee airbag components that were removed.

• Reconnect the battery if it was disconnected.

Torque Settings:

You will need special tools: Pliers -T10005-, Release tool -T10178-, and Torque wrench -V.A.G 1331-.

Removing:

1. Perform steps 1-9 from the “Removing and installing over-centre spring” procedure.

2. Unbolt the clutch pedal from the mounting bracket by removing the nut and pulling out the bolt.

3. Swing the clutch pedal down slightly and remove the over-centre spring from the mounting bracket.

4. Release the clutch pedal from the master cylinder using pliers -T10005-.

5. Remove the clutch pedal.

Installing:

Installation is in the reverse order of removal. Note the following:

• Renew self-locking nuts.

• Secure the retainer to the master cylinder operating rod.

• Press the retainer into the notch in the clutch pedal until it engages audibly.

• Install the over-centre spring and connect the clutch pedal to the mounting bracket as described in the over-centre spring installation procedure.

• If your car has damping on the clutch pedal mounting bracket, return it to its installation position.

• Reinstall the crash bar and all other components in reverse order.

Torque Settings:

You will need brake filling and bleeding equipment (e.g., -VAS 5234- or -V.A.G 1869-). Prefilling the system is not necessary. Use brake fluid according to the specifications in the brake systems repair group.

Procedure:

1. If necessary, remove the complete air filter housing to access the bleeder valve.

2. Connect the brake filling and bleeding equipment.

3. If necessary, use a 670 mm bleeder hose (-V.A.G 1238/B3-) to connect to the system.

4. Connect the bleeder hose to the collector bottle of the brake bleeding equipment.

5. Connect the bleeder hose to the bleeder valve.

6. Pressurise the system to 2 bar.

7. Open the bleeder valve.

8. Allow about 100 cm³ of brake fluid to flow out.

9. Close the bleeder valve.

10. Rapidly operate the clutch pedal from stop to stop 10 to 15 times.

11. Open the bleeder valve again.

12. Allow another 50 cm³ of brake fluid to flow out.

13. Close the bleeder valve.

14. Depress the clutch pedal several times after completing the bleeding process to check for proper operation.

15. If the air filter housing was removed, reinstall it.

You will need a torque wrench (e.g., -V.A.G 1331-).

Removing and installing clutch release lever with release bearing and guide sleeve:

1. Remove the bolts securing the assembly.

2. Pull the clutch release lever with the release bearing and guide sleeve off the input shaft and ball stud.

3. Install in reverse order of removal. Ensure the retaining spring is hooked into the clutch release lever. Note the torque setting for the bolts (5 Nm + turn 90° further, always renew bolts).

Removing and installing the guide sleeve:

1. With the clutch release lever removed, push the guide sleeve upwards out of the release bearing.

2. Turn the guide sleeve about 90° relative to the release bearing until the locking lugs of the guide sleeve align with the grooves of the release bearing.

3. Pull the guide sleeve out of the release bearing.

4. Install in reverse order.

Removing and installing the release bearing:

1. With the clutch release lever removed, press together the locking lugs on the back of the clutch release lever.

2. Remove the release bearing from the clutch release lever.

3. To install, press the release bearing into the clutch release lever until the locking lugs engage.

For repairing the clutch, you will need special tools such as a counterhold (-3067-), torque wrench (-V.A.G 1331-), and a centring mandrel (-T10086-). You will also need grease for the clutch plate splines (-G 000 100-).

Important Notes:

• Ensure dowel sleeves for aligning the engine and gearbox are fitted in the cylinder block.

• Renew clutch plates and pressure plates that have damaged or loose rivets.

• The contact surface on the flywheel for the clutch lining must be free of grooves, oil, and grease.

• The pressure plate contact surface and clutch plate lining must make full contact with the flywheel.

Centring Clutch Plate and Installing Pressure Plate:

1. The installation position for the clutch plate is with the spring cage facing the pressure plate.

2. Lightly grease the splines.

3. Use the centring mandrel to align the clutch plate.

4. Position the pressure plate (thrust plate) on the flywheel.

5. Loosen and tighten the bolts diagonally in small steps to prevent damage to the thrust plate centring holes and flywheel centring pins. Use the counterhold tool when removing/installing.

Bolt Torque: M6: 13 Nm; M7: 20 Nm.

Checking Diaphragm Spring:

• Check the ends of the diaphragm spring for wear. Wear of up to half the thickness of the diaphragm spring is permitted.

This procedure requires specialized tools and should be performed with caution.

Removing Gearbox:

1. Disconnect the battery after obtaining any radio codes.

2. Remove the air filter housing, battery, and battery tray.

3. Disconnect the selector cables from the gearbox selector lever and relay lever. Remove the cable support bracket and tie up the cables.

4. Remove the slave cylinder without disconnecting the hydraulic line. Lay it aside and secure it. Do not operate the clutch pedal.

5. Remove the earth strap and upper engine/gearbox connecting bolts, including the upper starter bolt.

6. Set up a support bracket (e.g., -10 – 222 A-) to hold the engine/gearbox assembly.

7. Raise the vehicle.

8. Remove noise insulation and the lower part of the front left wheel housing liner.

9. Disconnect the reversing light switch connector and starter connections.

10. Disconnect the exhaust system and pendulum support.

11. Disconnect both drive shafts from the flange shafts and tie them up.

12. Remove the engine/gearbox connecting bolt near the right flange shaft.

13. Position an engine and gearbox jack with a gearbox support (e.g., -3282- and -3282/31-) under the gearbox.

14. Remove the bolts for the left assembly mounting from the gearbox mounting.

15. Unbolt the gearbox support from the gearbox.

16. Remove the remaining lower engine/gearbox connecting bolts.

17. Press the gearbox off the dowel sleeves. Have a second person assist by pressing the engine forwards.

18. Carefully lower the gearbox, guiding it past the subframe and flywheel.

Installing Gearbox:

Installation is the reverse of removal, with the following key points:

• Clean all threaded holes and use new self-locking bolts.

• Check for and install dowel sleeves if missing.

• Clean the input shaft splines and apply a thin coat of grease for clutch plate splines (-G 000 100-).

• Use the engine and gearbox jack to carefully raise and align the gearbox.

• Guide the gearbox past the subframe and flywheel, then push it onto the engine dowel sleeves.

• Install the connecting bolts and tighten to the specified torque.

• Reinstall the gearbox support and assembly mounting. Tighten bolts to specified torque. Do not remove the engine support bracket until the mountings are secure.

• Reconnect all other components (drive shafts, pendulum support, starter, slave cylinder, selector cables, etc.).

• Adjust the selector mechanism.

• Reinstall battery, air filter, etc. Reconnect the battery and perform any necessary system initializations.

• Check the gear oil level.

The torque settings vary depending on the engine.

For vehicles with a 1.4 l engine:

For vehicles with a 1.6 l engine:

Gearbox support to gearbox (renew bolts):

• 40 Nm + 90°

Gearbox support to gearbox mounting (renew bolts):

• 60 Nm + 90°

To check the gear oil, you will need a torque wrench, a multi-point bit (-3357-), or a 17 mm Allen key bit, depending on the type of oil plug.

Checking the Oil Level:

1. If necessary, remove the noise insulation panel to access the gearbox.

2. Locate the oil filler plug on the side of the gearbox.

3. Place a drip tray underneath in case of spillage.

4. Remove the oil filler plug.

5. The oil level is correct if the gearbox is filled to the lower edge of the filler hole. If oil drips out, the level is sufficient.

6. If the level is correct, reinstall the oil filler plug and tighten it to the specified torque (25 Nm for multi-point head, 30 Nm for hexagon socket head).

Filling with Oil:

1. Remove the oil filler plug.

2. Fill with the correct specification gear oil until it reaches the lower edge of the filler hole.

3. Screw in the plug.

4. Start the engine, engage a gear, and allow the gearbox to turn for approximately 2 minutes (with the vehicle safely supported and wheels off the ground).

5. Stop the engine and remove the plug again.

6. Top up with gear oil to the lower edge of the filler hole.

7. Tighten the plug to the specified torque.

This procedure is for when the gearbox is still in the vehicle.

Renewing Left Flange Shaft Oil Seal:

1. Remove the left wheel and noise insulation.

2. Remove the lower part of the front left wheel housing liner.

3. Turn the steering to the left lock.

4. Unbolt the drive shaft from the flange shaft and tie it up securely.

5. Place a drip tray under the gearbox.

6. Remove the flange shaft securing bolt (a countersunk bolt) by screwing two M8 bolts into the flange and counterholding it with a lever.

7. Pull the flange shaft out. It is spring-loaded.

8. Use a multipurpose tool (-VW 771-) with puller hooks (-VW 771/37-) to pull out the old oil seal.

9. Before installing the new seal, half-fill the space between the sealing lip and dust lip with sealing grease (-G 052 128 A1-).

10. Using a suitable tool (e.g., thrust piece -T10082-), drive the new seal in to its stop, being careful not to cant it.

11. Insert the flange shaft.

12. Secure the flange shaft with a new countersunk bolt and tighten to 25 Nm.

13. Reattach the drive shaft, wheel housing liner, noise insulation, and wheel. Check the gear oil level.

Renewing Right Flange Shaft Oil Seal:

1. The procedure is similar to the left side.

2. If present, remove the heat shield for the drive shaft.

3. Unbolt the drive shaft and secure it out of the way.

4. Remove the flange shaft and pull out the old seal as described above.

5. Drive in the new seal using a suitable tool (e.g., drift sleeve -3158-).

6. Reassemble all components and check the gear oil level.