VOLKSWAGEN GOLF PLUS 2005 (08) PDF Document

The VOLKSWAGEN GOLF PLUS 2005 uses maintenance-free batteries. You should not remove any stickers or attempt to replenish them with distilled water. Only a visual check is necessary.

There are two main types:

1. Battery with magic eye: This is a maintenance-free wet battery with liquid electrolyte. The magic eye provides information on the electrolyte level and charge state through a coloured display.

WARNING: If the magic eye is colourless or light yellow, the battery must NOT be checked or charged. Do not jump-start the vehicle. These batteries must be renewed due to the danger of explosion.

2. Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) battery: This is a maintenance-free battery where the electrolyte is contained in a microscopic glass mat. It is sealed, fitted with valves, and does not have a magic eye. AGM batteries are identified by the abbreviation “AGM” on the battery case. An AGM battery must always be replaced with another AGM battery.

When handling the vehicle battery, observe the following warnings to avoid injury and damage:

Acid Dangers:

• Battery acid is highly corrosive. Always wear eye protection and gloves.

• If acid leaks, it can cause skin burns and corrosion on the vehicle. Neutralize spills immediately with a suitable solution, like a soap solution.

Explosion Dangers:

• Batteries produce explosive gas when charging. Do not cause sparks, use naked flames, smoke, or perform grinding/welding operations near the battery.

• Avoid sparks from electrostatic charging by touching the vehicle body before touching the battery.

• Avoid short circuits. Never lay a tool on top of a battery.

General Precautions:

• Only work on batteries in well-ventilated rooms.

• Keep children away from acid and batteries.

• Untrained personnel should only work on batteries under supervision.

• Old batteries are hazardous waste and must be disposed of correctly at a suitable collection centre, not in household waste.

To prevent damage to the battery clamps and terminals, observe the following points:

• The battery clamps should only be fitted by hand, without using force.

• Battery terminals should not be coated with grease.

• Fit the battery clamps so that the battery terminal is either flush with the clamp or slightly protruding from it.

• Once the battery clamps have been tightened to the specified torque, do not tighten the threaded connections any further.

A visual inspection is essential before performing more extensive battery tests. This check establishes the following:

• Secure Mounting: Check that the battery is securely seated. If necessary, tighten the securing bolt to the specified torque. Vibrations can shorten the battery’s life and may damage the housing or internal plates, creating an explosion risk.

• Housing Damage: Inspect the battery housing for any damage. A damaged housing can leak electrolyte, causing serious corrosion damage to the vehicle. If acid has leaked, treat the affected components immediately with an acid neutraliser or a soap solution.

• Terminal Condition: Check if the battery terminals and wire connections are damaged. Damaged terminals can prevent a good electrical contact. Ensure the battery clamps are correctly seated and tightened to the specified torque to prevent wiring damage and electrical malfunctions.

Before checking the colour, gently tap the magic eye with a screwdriver handle to dissipate any air bubbles that might distort the display. The interpretation depends on the type of magic eye:

For “3-colour” magic eye systems:

• Green: The battery is sufficiently charged.

• Black: The battery is partly discharged (charge state below 65%) or completely discharged.

• Colourless or light yellow: The battery must be renewed. Do not attempt to check, charge, or jump-start the vehicle as there is a danger of explosion.

For “2-colour” magic eye systems:

• Black: The electrolyte level is OK. The charge state cannot be read from the magic eye and a battery load test is required.

• Colourless or light yellow: The electrolyte level is too low. The battery must be renewed. Do not attempt to check, charge, or jump-start the vehicle.

Note that the magic eye only reflects the condition of one battery cell. A full assessment of the battery’s health requires a battery load test.

To perform a battery load test using the VAS 5097 A tester, follow these steps:

1. Ensure the battery has a temperature of at least 10°C.

2. Switch off the ignition and all electrical consumers in the vehicle.

3. If the battery has a magic eye, check its status. Do not proceed if it is colourless or light yellow.

4. Check the low-temperature test current in amperes (A) according to DIN from the battery label. If not available in DIN, use the conversion table. Set this value on the tester.

5. Select the appropriate measuring range (80 – 379 A or 380 – 499 A) on the tester.

6. Connect the red terminal clamp (+) of the tester to the battery’s positive terminal.

7. Connect the black terminal clamp (-) of the tester to the battery’s negative terminal. Ensure a good contact.

8. Use the selection switch to indicate whether the tester is connected directly to the battery or to external test points in the engine compartment.

9. Press the start test button. The green LED will light up, and the test program will run automatically for about 20 seconds.

10. The test result will be printed out. If the unit does not start, the battery needs to be recharged.

11. After the test, switch off the unit and remove the test terminals.

Important: Perform the test only once, as repeating it immediately can falsify the result. The tester requires approximately 30 minutes to cool down before the next test.

The printout from the VAS 5097 A tester indicates the battery’s starting capability. Use the following table to determine the next steps:

Follow these steps to perform a battery test with the VAS 6161 tester:

1. Switch off the ignition and all electrical accessories.

2. If present, check the magic eye on the battery. Do not test if it is colourless or light yellow.

3. Switch on the VAS 6161 unit.

4. Connect the red terminal clamp (+) to the battery’s positive terminal.

5. Connect the black terminal clamp (-) to the battery’s negative terminal. Ensure a good contact.

6. Select one of the following functions on the tester’s menu:

• Maintenance test: Used for new cars before registration or in a stock maintenance program.

• Service test: Used for regular service checks.

• Guarantee test: Used for warranty-related claims.

7. Follow the on-screen prompts, which will guide you through selecting options like “On battery terminal” or “On jump-start point”, vehicle type, and battery type. You will also need to measure the battery temperature by holding the sensor about 5 cm above a terminal until the reading stabilises.

8. Start the test. The test is completed in about 10 seconds, and the result is printed out.

The action required depends on the test performed (guarantee/service or maintenance) and the result displayed on the printout.

For Guarantee and Service Tests:

For Maintenance Test:

A current draw test helps determine if a discharged battery can be recharged or needs replacement.

Test Requirements:

• Battery temperature must be at least +10°C.

• The charger must be capable of at least 30 A (e.g., VAS 5095A, VAS 5900, VAS 5903).

• A current pick-up clamp is needed to measure the current draw.

Procedure:

1. Connect the battery to a suitable battery charger.

2. Start the charging sequence.

3. After 5 minutes, measure the charging current being drawn by the battery.

Test Result:

• If the current draw is higher than 10% of the battery’s nominal capacity (e.g., > 6.1 A for a 61 Ah battery), the battery is likely serviceable. Fully charge the battery and then perform a standard battery test again after letting it rest for two hours.

• If the current draw is below 10% of the nominal capacity after 5 minutes, the battery is likely faulty and should be renewed.

This test is used to assess the battery’s state of charge, typically for vehicle maintenance purposes.

Test Conditions:

• The battery must not have been charged or discharged within the last 2 days.

Procedure:

• Use a hand multimeter (e.g., V.A.G 1526 B) to check the battery’s no-load voltage.

Assessing the Measurement:

A no-load voltage of 11.60 V corresponds to a 0% charge, indicating the battery is totally discharged.

Preparation:

1. Ensure the battery temperature is at least 10°C.

2. Set the battery type switch on the base of the charger to 2.4 V/C (volts/battery cell). This setting applies to all batteries.

3. Switch off the vehicle’s ignition and all electrical consumers.

Charging Procedure:

1. Connect the red terminal clamp (+) of the charger to the positive terminal on the battery.

2. Connect the black terminal clamp (-) of the charger to the negative terminal of the battery. For vehicles with a start/stop system and battery monitor control unit (J367), connect the black clamp to a body earth point instead of the negative terminal to avoid system malfunctions.

3. Switch on the battery charger.

4. The yellow charging current indicators will light up. When only the ” > 90%” indicator is lit, the battery is nearly full.

5. When the green “maintaining charge” LED lights up, the battery is fully charged.

6. Switch off the charging unit.

7. Remove the charger’s terminal clamps from the battery terminals.

Note: The VAS 5095 A automatically recognizes totally discharged batteries (with at least 0.6 V) and initiates a gentle charging procedure.

The procedure is the same for both the VAS 5900 and VAS 5903 chargers.

Preparation:

1. Ensure the battery temperature is at least 10°C.

2. Switch off the vehicle’s ignition and all electrical consumers.

3. Connect the charger’s power plug.

Charging Procedure:

1. Press the INFO button to select the correct operating mode for your battery type (e.g., standard wet battery or gel/AGM battery).

2. Use the “Up” (↑) and “Down” (↓) buttons to set the battery’s capacity (Ah) as indicated on the battery label.

3. Connect the red terminal clamp (+) to the battery’s positive terminal.

4. Connect the black terminal clamp (-) to the battery’s negative terminal. (For vehicles with a start/stop system and battery monitor, connect to a body earth point).

5. The charger automatically recognizes the battery voltage and begins the charging sequence. A bar graph on the display will show the charging progress.

6. At 80-85% charge, the charger switches to “final charge” mode. When all bars on the display are full, the charge is 100% complete. The charger will then switch to a maintenance mode.

Ending the Charge:

1. Press the START/STOP button.

2. Disconnect the black terminal clamp, then the red terminal clamp.

3. Unplug the charger from the power source.

Faults: If the charger does not detect a battery (voltage is less than 2V), the display will remain unchanged. A special procedure for totally discharged batteries must be used.

The VAS 6102A solar panel is designed to support the onboard electrical supply and prevent spontaneous battery discharging, for example, when the vehicle is stored for a period.

Procedure:

1. Secure the solar panel onto the interior mirror.

2. Place the underside of the panel so it is supported by the dash panel. Note: Do not allow the panel to lie fully flat on the dash panel, as this could cause discoloration.

3. Pull the attachment string tight so the solar panel is positioned close to the windscreen.

4. Connect the solar panel’s plug to the vehicle’s diagnostic connection (OBD-II port), typically located in the driver’s side footwell.

5. A green LED on the solar panel’s frame indicates its function. The brighter the LED, the higher the charging current being produced.

The panel has integrated electronics to prevent overcharging the battery.

There are several types of hose couplings used in the washer system. Identify the type to use the correct procedure:

Type 1 (Simple Push-Fit):

• To loosen: Simply pull the two coupling sections apart.

• To secure: Push the two sections together until you hear and feel them engage.

Type 2 (Rotating Lock Ring):

• To loosen: Rotate the lock ring 90 degrees and pull the hose connection off.

• To secure: Push the hose connection on and rotate the lock ring back 90 degrees until it engages.

Type 3 (Lifting Lock Clip):

• To loosen: Pull the lock clip up by approximately 1 mm and pull the hose connection off.

• To secure: Attach the hose connection and press the clip down until it engages.

Type 4 (Headlight Washer System – Push Lock Ring):

• To loosen: Push the lock ring in and pull the hose connection off.

• To secure: Push and hold the lock ring while pushing the hose connection on. Check that the clip is correctly engaged.

The repair method depends on whether the hose is smooth or corrugated.

Repairing a Smooth Pipe:

1. Cut out the damaged section of the smooth pipe at a right angle.

2. Select an appropriate size of special EPDM hose to act as a connector.

3. Cut the EPDM hose to a length that allows each end of the smooth pipe to be pushed about 10 mm inside it.

4. Push the ends of the smooth pipe into the EPDM hose.

5. Secure both repair joints with cable ties.

Repairing a Corrugated Pipe:

1. Cut out the damaged section of the corrugated pipe at a right angle.

2. Select suitable end piece connectors and the correct size of heat-shrink hose.

3. Gently heat one end of the corrugated pipe with a hot air blower.

4. Push a connector into the heated end. Repeat for the other piece of corrugated pipe with the other connector.

5. Cut a piece of heat-shrink hose so that it will cover the repair joint by about 20 mm on each side.

6. Push the heat-shrink hose over the corrugated pipe, join the two connectors, and then slide the heat-shrink hose over the entire joint and apply heat to secure it.

Working on gas discharge headlights is dangerous due to extremely high voltage. Follow these safety rules strictly:

• Disconnect Power: Before working on any part of the headlight system marked with yellow high-voltage symbols, you must disconnect the battery earth strap.

• Discharge Residual Voltage: After disconnecting the battery, switch the dipped beam on and off again to eliminate any possible residual voltage in the system.

• High Voltage Danger: Control units, connectors, and bulb holders conduct lethally high voltage (over 28,000 V during ignition). Never operate the control unit without a bulb properly installed in the headlight housing.

• Physical Dangers:

• The bulbs are under pressure and can explode if mishandled, causing injury. Always wear protective goggles and gloves.

• The glass of the bulbs becomes very hot, posing a burn risk.

• Avoid looking directly into the beam. The UV radiation is much stronger than that of halogen bulbs, and the intense light can cause glare and impair vision.

• Handling Bulbs: Do not touch the bulb glass with bare fingers. Use clean cloth gloves. Oils from your skin can burn onto the glass and damage the headlight reflector.

• Disposal: Gas discharge bulbs contain mercury and must be disposed of as hazardous waste, not as conventional waste.

Important: This procedure requires a special puller tool (T 40148) and is only effective for illuminated sockets. Attempting to remove non-illuminated sockets this way, or using excessive force, can damage the retaining sleeve.

Removal Procedure:

1. If present, remove the cigarette lighter or any accessory from the socket.

2. Push the puller (T 40148) into the socket until you feel its locking lugs engage in the recesses inside the socket.

3. Pull the grip on the tool to release the locking lugs of the socket’s retaining sleeve.

4. Pull the entire socket out of the retaining sleeve using the tool.

5. Be careful not to stretch the wiring as you pull the socket out.

6. Disconnect the electrical connector from the back of the socket.

7. To release the puller tool from the socket, press the spindle on the tool and turn the tool’s body briefly to the left.

Installation:

• Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. After installation, carefully press the socket’s internal retaining springs back together and test that the cigarette lighter (if equipped) stays in after its heating phase and does not eject from the socket.

Note: Some vehicles use a non-replaceable LED for illumination. This procedure only applies to sockets with a replaceable light bulb.

1. First, remove the cigarette lighter socket from the dashboard as described in the removal procedure.

2. Once the socket is removed, you will have the socket attached to the retaining sleeve and bulb carrier.

3. Press the retaining lugs on the side of the retaining sleeve to release it from the bulb carrier.

4. Unclip the bulb carrier from the retaining sleeve.

5. The bulb carrier may be a single piece or a two-part assembly. If it is two parts, separate them to access the bulb.

6. Remove the old light bulb from its holder.

7. Install the new bulb.

8. Reassemble the components in the reverse order of removal.

When performing repairs on the vehicle’s electrical system, follow these fundamental rules to ensure safety and quality:

• Always disconnect the battery earth strap before starting work.

• Before repairing, identify and rectify the original cause of the damage (e.g., sharp edges, corrosion).

• Soldering is not permitted for vehicle wiring repairs. Use only approved crimp connectors and tools.

• Crimp connectors must be shrink-fitted using a hot air blower after crimping to prevent moisture ingress.

• Repaired sections should be marked with yellow adhesive tape to indicate a previous repair.

• When multiple wires are repaired in the same area, stagger the crimp connectors to avoid creating a large bulge in the harness.

• Never repair screened wires; they must be replaced completely.

• For heat-resistant wiring (often found in the engine compartment), use only heat-resistant repair wiring.

• Special rules apply for repairing sensitive systems like airbags, CAN bus, and fibre optic cables. These should be strictly followed.

• After every repair, perform a function test. It may also be necessary to check and clear the vehicle’s fault memory.

Properly cleaning contact surfaces is crucial for a reliable electrical connection. The method depends on the component.

Important: Do not use penetrating fluid, contact spray, or grease, as this can interfere with proper torque settings and electrical contact. Disconnect the battery before starting.

Cleaning Ring Terminals (e.g., ground cables):

1. Remove the ring terminal from its threaded connection.

2. Check for corrosion and dirt.

3. Select a suitable adapter and sanding pad from a contact cleaning set (like VAS 6410).

4. Insert the adapter into the ring terminal and use circular movements to grind off corrosion. Do not abrade so much that the underlying copper is exposed, as this can cause future corrosion.

5. If necessary, use a deburrer to remove any burrs from the terminal.

Cleaning Threaded Connections (Studs):

1. Check the threaded stud for corrosion.

2. Place the appropriate adapter with a sanding pad over the threaded connection.

3. Use circular movements to grind off corrosion and dirt.

Cleaning Battery Clamps and Terminals:

1. Use a dedicated battery terminal cleaning tool (like VAG 1331).

2. Use the wire brush part of the tool to clean the inside of the battery clamp with circular movements.

3. Use the other end of the tool to clean the outside of the battery terminal post with circular movements.

After cleaning any connection, tighten it to the specified torque and apply a suitable anti-corrosion treatment.

Important: Do not attempt to repair Lambda probe wires by cutting or crimping, as this can lead to malfunctions. The entire probe must be renewed using a uniform replacement part.

The general procedure for both 4-pin (LSF) and 6-pin (LSU) probes is as follows:

1. Remove the defective Lambda probe from the vehicle.

2. Place the new uniform probe and the old defective probe next to each other, aligning the sensor housings so they are at the same height.

3. The new probe’s cable will be longer than the old one. Tie back the excess length of the new probe’s cable to match the length of the old one and secure it with cable ties.

4. Check that the connector housing on the new probe is compatible with the vehicle’s onboard supply side connector. On most vehicles, it will match. If not, the connector housing may need to be replaced.

5. If necessary, transfer any attachment parts, cable ties, or marking rings from the old probe to the new one to ensure it fits exactly as the original did.

6. Install the new Lambda probe in the vehicle.