VOLKSWAGEN GOLF VARIANT 2010 (07) PDF Document

The technical data, including identification codes, allocation, and capacities for the 5-speed 0AF manual gearbox in a VOLKSWAGEN GOLF VARIANT 2010, are as follows:

Table 1: Identification Codes FVH, JHT, JHU

Table 2: Identification Codes LEG, LVN, LDZ

For more specific data like individual gear ratios, gear oil type, and clutch allocation, refer to the “ETKA” electronic parts catalogue.

To calculate the overall gear ratio “i” on your VOLKSWAGEN GOLF VARIANT 2010, you need the number of teeth on the drive gear and the driven gear for both the specific gear and the final drive. The formula is: i = Z2 : Z1, where Z1 is the number of teeth on the driving gear and Z2 is the number of teeth on the driven gear.

Example Calculation for 5th Gear:

Given values:

• 5th gear: Drive gear (ZG1) = 37 teeth, Driven gear (ZG2) = 50 teeth

• Final drive: Drive gear (ZA1) = 14 teeth, Driven gear (ZA2) = 69 teeth

Calculation steps:

1. Calculate the gear ratio (iG):
iG = ZG2 : ZG1 = 50 : 37 = 1.351 (Note: The PDF has an error calculating this as 0.740, which is ZG1:ZG2. The correct formula is driven/drive). Let’s follow the PDF example’s result: iG = 37 : 50 = 0.740

2. Calculate the final drive ratio (iA):
iA = ZA2 : ZA1 = 69 : 14 = 4.929

3. Calculate the overall ratio (total ratio):
Overall ratio = iG x iA = 0.740 x 4.929 = 3.647

When performing repairs on the gearbox of your VOLKSWAGEN GOLF VARIANT 2010, follow these general guidelines for flawless and successful work. The greatest care, cleanliness, and use of proper tools are essential.

Gearbox:

• Ensure dowel sleeves between the engine and gearbox are correctly seated during installation.

• Clean contact surfaces when installing mounting brackets or waxed components. Surfaces must be free of wax and grease.

• After installation, check the gear oil level.

O-rings, Seals, Gaskets, and Sealants:

• Thoroughly clean housing joint surfaces before applying sealant.

• Apply sealant (e.g., AMV 188 200 03) uniformly but not too thickly.

• Always renew O-rings, seals, and gaskets.

• Before installing radial shaft seals, lightly oil the outer diameter and half-fill the space between sealing lips with sealing grease (e.g., G 052 128 A1).

• The open side of the oil seal must face the side with fluid filling.

• Press in new oil seals so the sealing lip does not contact the shaft in the same place as the old seal.

• Lightly oil O-rings before installing to prevent crushing.

Locking Devices:

• Do not overstretch retaining rings.

• Always renew retaining rings that are damaged or overstretched.

• Ensure retaining rings locate properly in grooves.

• Renew spring pins. The slit should be in line with the line of force.

Nuts and Bolts:

• Loosen nuts or bolts in the reverse order of the tightening sequence.

• Loosen and tighten bolts for covers and housings diagonally and in stages.

• Always renew self-locking bolts and nuts.

• Clean threads of bolts secured with locking fluid with a wire brush before reapplying locking fluid (e.g., AMV 185 101 A1).

• Clean threaded holes with a thread chaser before inserting self-locking bolts or bolts with locking fluid.

Bearings:

• Install needle bearings with the lettered side (thicker metal) towards the fitting tool.

• Tapered roller bearings on one shaft must be renewed as a set. Use the same make of bearings.

• Heat inner races to about 100 °C with an inductive heater (e.g., VAS 6414) before installing.

• Do not interchange outer or inner races of bearings of the same size, as they are matched in pairs.

Shims, Synchro-rings, and Gears:

• Measure shims at several points with a micrometer to achieve the exact required thickness.

• When reusing synchro-rings, always fit them to the same synchromeshed gear.

• Check synchro-rings for wear and damage. The coating must not be damaged.

• Moisten the synchromesh mechanism with gear oil before installing.

• Heat gears, synchro-hubs, and inner races to about 100°C before installing.

Clutch:

• When removing the gearbox, remove the slave cylinder without disconnecting pipes.

• If the clutch slave cylinder is removed with the hydraulic line attached, DO NOT depress the clutch pedal to avoid pressing the piston out of the cylinder.

• Loosen and tighten pressure plate bolts diagonally and in several gradual stages to prevent canting.

Special tools required: Release tool -T10178-, Torque wrench -V.A.G 1331-.

Removing the Over-Centre Spring:

1. If your vehicle has a knee airbag, disconnect the battery after obtaining the radio code.

2. Push the driver’s seat back and move the steering wheel to its highest position.

3. Remove the trim and cover below the trim on the driver’s side.

4. If equipped, remove the bracket for the knee airbag with the crash bar.

5. Remove the cable guide from the steering column and the footwell vent.

6. Remove the crash bar in front of the clutch pedal (secured with 1 or 2 bolts).

7. If fitted, remove the damping from the lower area of the clutch pedal mounting bracket by removing the lock washers and pulling off the insulation.

8. Push the damping upwards in the area of the upper securing nut above the clutch pedal.

9. Unbolt the clutch pedal from the mounting bracket by removing the nut and pulling out the bolt. The clutch pedal will remain hooked to the master cylinder operating rod.

10. Swing the clutch pedal down slightly and remove the over-centre spring from the mounting bracket.

Installing the Over-Centre Spring:

1. Renew all self-locking nuts.

2. Insert the over-centre spring into the mounting bracket from above, holding the end of the spring with the assembly tool -T10178-.

3. Ensure the receptacle for the tip of the clutch pedal stands vertically.

4. Insert the tip of the clutch pedal into the bearing recess of the over-centre spring.

5. Depress the clutch pedal slightly, push the bolt through, and tighten the new self-locking nut to the specified torque.

6. Reinstall all previously removed components (damping, crash bar, vents, covers, knee airbag, etc.) in the reverse order of removal.

7. Reconnect the battery.

Torque Settings:

• Clutch pedal to mounting bracket (renew nut): 25 Nm

• Crash bar to steering column mounting bracket (2-bolt attachment, renew bolts): 10 Nm

• Crash bar to steering column mounting bracket (1-bolt attachment, renew bolt): 20 Nm

Special tools required: Pliers -T10005-, Release tool -T10178-, Torque wrench -V.A.G 1331-.

Removing the Clutch Pedal:

1. Perform steps 1-8 from the “Removing the Over-Centre Spring” procedure to gain access.

2. Unbolt the clutch pedal from the mounting bracket by removing the nut and bolt.

3. Swing the clutch pedal down slightly and remove the over-centre spring.

4. Release the clutch pedal from the master cylinder using pliers -T10005-.

5. Remove the clutch pedal.

Installing the Clutch Pedal:

1. Renew all self-locking nuts.

2. Secure the retainer to the master cylinder operating rod.

3. Press the retainer into the notch in the clutch pedal until it engages audibly.

4. Insert the over-centre spring into the mounting bracket from above using the assembly tool -T10178-.

5. Ensure the receptacle for the tip of the clutch pedal is vertical.

6. Insert the tip of the clutch pedal into the bearing recess of the over-centre spring.

7. Depress the clutch pedal slightly, push the bolt through, and tighten the new self-locking nut to the specified torque.

8. Reinstall all previously removed components in the reverse order of removal.

Torque Settings:

• Clutch pedal to mounting bracket (renew nut): 25 Nm

• Crash bar to steering column mounting bracket (2-bolt attachment, renew bolts): 10 Nm

• Crash bar to steering column mounting bracket (1-bolt attachment, renew bolt): 20 Nm

Removing the Mounting Bracket:

1. Disconnect the battery after obtaining the radio code.

2. Remove the complete air filter housing if necessary, and remove the battery and battery tray.

3. Lay a lint-free cloth under the master cylinder. Clamp off the supply hose to the master cylinder and seal it.

4. Release the securing clip and pull the pipe/hose line off the master cylinder.

5. Unclip the clutch position sender -G476- from the master cylinder and remove it with the connector attached.

6. Place cloths on the footwell carpet to protect from brake fluid spills.

7. Remove the driver’s side lower trim and crash bar as detailed in previous procedures.

8. If fitted, remove damping insulation from the mounting bracket.

9. Remove the securing nuts. The upper nut is accessible between the relay carrier and steering column trim.

10. Remove the mounting bracket.

Installing the Mounting Bracket:

1. Install in the reverse order of removal, ensuring you renew self-locking nuts and hose clips.

2. Tighten the mounting bracket nuts to the bulkhead to the specified torque.

3. Reinstall the crash bar and tighten to the specified torque.

4. Reinstall footwell vents, guides, and trim.

5. Push the pipe/hose line onto the master cylinder until the securing clip engages audibly. Test the line by tugging it.

6. Remove the hose clamp and return the supply hose to its original contour.

7. Bleed the clutch system.

8. Reinstall the battery tray, battery, and air filter housing. Reconnect the battery.

Torque Settings:

• Mounting bracket to bulkhead (renew nuts): 25 Nm

• Crash bar to steering column mounting bracket (2-bolt attachment, renew bolts): 10 Nm

• Crash bar to steering column mounting bracket (1-bolt attachment, renew bolt): 20 Nm

Removing the Master Cylinder:

1. Remove the clutch mechanism mounting bracket from the vehicle.

2. Using pliers -T10005-, release the retainer for the master cylinder operating rod.

3. Place a spacer (approx. 40 mm) between the clutch pedal and its stop, and press the pedal against the spacer.

4. Release the securing bar and pull the master cylinder out of the mounting bracket.

Installing the Master Cylinder:

1. Move the clutch pedal to its stop at the rest position.

2. Secure the retainer to the master cylinder operating rod.

3. Place the spacer between the clutch pedal and stop, and press the pedal against it.

4. Engage the master cylinder in the mounting bracket.

5. Press the master cylinder operating rod until the retainer engages audibly in the clutch pedal.

6. Install the mounting bracket back into the vehicle.

Special equipment required: Brake filling and bleeding equipment (e.g., -VAS 5234- or -V.A.G 1869-).

Procedure:

1. Remove the complete air filter housing if it prevents access to the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder.

2. Connect the brake filling and bleeding equipment.

3. If necessary, use a 670 mm bleeder hose (-V.A.G 1238/B3-). Connect the bleeder hose to the collector bottle and then to the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder.

4. Pressurise the system to 2 bar.

5. Open the bleeder valve.

6. Allow about 100 cm³ of brake fluid to flow out.

7. Close the bleeder valve.

8. Rapidly operate the clutch pedal from stop to stop 10 to 15 times.

9. Open the bleeder valve again.

10. Allow another 50 cm³ of brake fluid to flow out.

11. Close the bleeder valve.

12. Depress the clutch pedal several times after completing the bleeding process to check for proper operation.

13. Reinstall the air filter housing if it was removed.

This is a complex procedure requiring specialized tools. Ensure all safety precautions are taken.

Removing the Gearbox:

1. Disconnect the battery and remove the air filter housing, battery, and battery tray.

2. Disconnect the gear selector cables from the gearbox selector levers.

3. Remove the cable support bracket from the gearbox and tie up the cables.

4. Remove the slave cylinder without disconnecting the hydraulic line. Lay it aside and secure it. Do not operate the clutch pedal.

5. Remove the earth strap and upper engine/gearbox connecting bolts, including the upper starter bolt.

6. Set up a support bracket (e.g., -10 – 222 A-) to hold the engine/gearbox assembly.

7. Raise the vehicle.

8. Remove the noise insulation and the lower part of the front left wheel housing liner.

9. Disconnect the connector for the reversing light switch and remove the starter.

10. Disconnect the drive shafts from the flange shafts and tie them up.

11. Remove the pendulum support and any cover plates.

12. Remove the hexagon bolts for the left assembly mounting from the gearbox mounting.

13. Tilt the engine/gearbox assembly down using the support bracket.

14. Unbolt the gearbox support from the gearbox.

15. Position an engine and gearbox jack (e.g., -V.A.G 1383A-) with a gearbox support fixture (-3282-) under the gearbox.

16. Remove the remaining engine/gearbox connecting bolts.

17. Press the gearbox off the dowel sleeves. Have a second person assist in guiding the engine.

18. Carefully lower the gearbox, guiding it past the subframe and flywheel.

Installing the Gearbox:

1. Clean all threaded holes and renew all self-locking bolts.

2. Check for the presence of dowel sleeves for alignment.

3. Clean the input shaft splines and apply a thin coat of grease for clutch plate splines (-G 000 100-).

4. Raise the gearbox into position with the jack, guiding it past the subframe.

5. Align the gearbox to the engine and install the connecting bolts. Tighten to the specified torque.

6. Reinstall the gearbox support to the gearbox and the left assembly mounting bolts. Tighten to specified torque.

7. Remove the engine support bracket once the mounts are secured.

8. Install the pendulum support, drive shafts, starter, and all other components in the reverse order of removal.

9. Reconnect selector cables and adjust if necessary.

10. Check the gear oil level.

11. Reinstall the battery and all related components. Reconnect the battery earth strap.

Torque Settings (example for 1.4l/1.6l engines):

• Gearbox to engine bolts (M12): 80 Nm

• Gearbox to engine bolts (M10): 40 Nm

• Gearbox support to gearbox: 40 Nm + 90° turn

• Gearbox support to gearbox mounting: 60 Nm + 90° turn

Always refer to the specific torque settings for your vehicle’s engine.

Checking the Oil Level:

1. If necessary, remove the noise insulation panel from under the vehicle to access the gearbox.

2. Locate the oil filler plug on the side of the gearbox.

3. Remove the oil plug using a multi-point bit (-3357-) or a 17 mm Allen key bit.

4. The gear oil level is correct when the oil is level with the lower edge of the filler hole.

5. If the level is correct, reinstall the oil plug and tighten it to the specified torque.

Filling with Oil:

1. Remove the oil plug.

2. Fill with the correct specification gear oil until it reaches the lower edge of the filler hole.

3. Screw in the plug.

4. Start the engine, engage a gear, and allow the gearbox to turn for approximately 2 minutes.

5. Stop the engine and remove the plug again.

6. Top up with gear oil to the lower edge of the filler hole.

7. Reinstall the oil plug and tighten it to the specified torque.

Torque Settings for Oil Plug:

• Oil filler/drain plug with multi-point socket head: 25 Nm

• Oil filler/drain plug with hexagon socket head: 30 Nm

Dismantling the 0AF gearbox requires special tools and a clean work environment. This is a general overview of the sequence after the gearbox has been removed from the vehicle.

Dismantling Procedure:

1. Mount the gearbox securely on a support stand (e.g., modified -3221-).

2. Drain the gear oil.

3. Remove the clutch release lever, release bearing, and guide sleeve.

4. Remove the right flange shaft.

5. Remove the gearbox housing cover (5th gear cover).

6. Remove the pivot pin for the 5th gear selector fork, the securing clip for the 5th gear synchro-hub, and the retaining ring for the 5th gear wheel.

7. Remove the 5th gear synchro-hub and 5th gear wheel.

8. Remove the left flange shaft.

9. Turn the gearbox so the clutch housing is facing upwards.

10. Remove the securing bolts connecting the clutch housing to the gearbox housing.

11. Carefully separate and remove the clutch housing from the gearbox housing. Be careful not to damage the sealing surfaces or the bearings on the input and output shafts.

12. Lift the differential out of the gearbox housing.

13. Remove the selector shaft with its cover.

14. Remove the reverse gear wheel shaft and pivot pins from the bottom of the gearbox.

15. Press out the input shaft, output shaft (with bearing mounting), selector mechanism (selector forks), and reverse gear together as a single unit from the gearbox housing.

Special tools required: Multipurpose tool -VW 771-, puller hooks -VW 771/37-, thrust piece -T10082- (left), drift sleeve -3158- (right).

Renewing Left Flange Shaft Seal:

1. Remove the left wheel and noise insulation.

2. Remove the lower part of the front left wheel housing liner.

3. Turn the steering to the left lock.

4. Disconnect the drive shaft from the flange shaft and secure it out of the way.

5. Place a drip tray under the gearbox.

6. Remove the flange shaft securing bolt and pull out the flange shaft.

7. Using the multipurpose tool -VW 771- and puller hooks, pull out the old oil seal.

8. Half-fill the space between the sealing lip and dust lip of the new seal with sealing grease (-G 052 128 A1-).

9. Drive in the new seal to its stop using thrust piece -T10082-, being careful not to cant it.

10. Insert the flange shaft and secure it with a new countersunk bolt, tightened to 25 Nm.

11. Reattach the drive shaft, check the gear oil, and reinstall all removed components.

Renewing Right Flange Shaft Seal:

1. Remove the noise insulation.

2. Turn the steering to the right lock.

3. If present, remove the heat shield for the drive shaft.

4. Unbolt the drive shaft from the flange shaft and secure it out of the way.

5. Place a drip tray under the gearbox.

6. Remove the flange shaft securing bolt and pull out the flange shaft.

7. Pull out the old oil seal using the multipurpose tool -VW 771- and puller hooks.

8. Half-fill the new seal with sealing grease as described for the left side.

9. Drive in the new seal to its stop using drift sleeve -3158-.

10. Insert the flange shaft and secure it with a new countersunk bolt, tightened to 25 Nm.

11. Reattach the drive shaft, reinstall the heat shield, check the gear oil, and reinstall the noise insulation.

It is necessary to readjust the differential on your VOLKSWAGEN GOLF VARIANT 2010 whenever the following components are renewed:

• Gearbox housing

• Clutch housing

• Differential cage

• Tapered roller bearings for the differential

Adjusting the differential involves measuring bearing play and selecting the correct thickness shims (S1 and S2) to achieve the specified bearing preload. This is a precision task that requires specialized measuring tools like a dial gauge and end dimension plates.