KAWASAKI FH721V (01) PDF Document

To protect the environment, the KAWASAKI FH721V engine has incorporated crankcase emission and exhaust emission control systems (EM) in compliance with applicable regulations.

1. Crankcase Emission Control System

A sealed-type crankcase emission control system is used to eliminate blow-by gases. The blow-by gases are led to the breather chamber through the crankcase, and then to the air cleaner. Oil is separated from the gases in the breather chamber and returned to the bottom of the crankcase.

2. Exhaust Emission Control System

This system consists of a carburetor and an ignition system with optimum ignition timing characteristics. The carburetor is calibrated to provide lean air/fuel mixture characteristics and optimum fuel economy with a suitable air cleaner and exhaust system.

Federal and California State law prohibits the removal or rendering inoperative of any device or element of design incorporated into a new engine for emission control purposes. Among the acts presumed to constitute tampering are the following:

Do not tamper with the original emission related parts:

• Carburetor and internal parts

• Spark plugs

• Magneto or electronic ignition system

• Fuel filter element

• Air cleaner elements

• Crankcase

• Cylinder heads

• Breather chamber and internal parts

• Intake pipe and tube

The manual uses several symbols to help you distinguish different types of information:

WARNING: This symbol identifies special instructions or procedures which, if not correctly followed, could result in personal injury, or loss of life.

CAUTION: This symbol identifies special instructions or procedures which, if not strictly observed, could result in damage to or destruction of equipment.

NOTE: This note symbol indicates points of particular interest for more efficient and convenient operation.

• A bullet indicates a procedural step or work to be done.

○ A circle indicates a procedural sub-step or how to do the work of the procedural step it follows.

★ A star indicates a conditional step or what action to take based on the results of the test or inspection in the procedural step or sub-step it follows.

Before starting to service your engine, please note the following best practices:

(1) Dirt: Before removal and disassembly, clean the engine. Dirt entering the engine can act as an abrasive and shorten its life.

(2) Battery Ground: Remove the ground (–) lead from the battery before any disassembly to prevent accidental starting, sparks, and damage to electrical parts.

(3) Tightening Sequence: When installing a part with multiple fasteners, start them all and tighten them to a snug fit. Then, tighten them evenly in a staggered sequence to avoid distortion. When loosening, first loosen all fasteners by about a quarter of a turn before removing them.

(4) Torque: Use the torque values given in the service manual. Use a good quality, reliable torque wrench.

(5) Force: Use common sense. If a part is difficult to remove or install, stop and find the cause. Use a wooden or plastic-faced mallet for tapping. Use an impact driver for screws held by a locking agent.

(6) Edges: Watch for sharp edges. Protect your hands with gloves or a thick cloth.

(7) High-Flash Point Solvent: Use a high-flash point solvent to reduce fire danger. Always follow manufacturer directions.

(8) Gasket, O-Ring: Do not reuse gaskets or O-rings. Ensure mating surfaces are clean and smooth.

(9) Liquid Gasket, Non-Permanent Locking Agent: Follow manufacturer’s directions. Apply sparingly to avoid blocking oil passages.

(10) Press: A part installed with a press should be coated with oil on its circumference for smooth installation.

(11) Ball Bearing: When installing a ball bearing, push on the race that is affected by friction to prevent stress on the balls and races.

(12) Oil Seal and Grease Seal: Replace removed seals with new ones. Press them in with the manufacturer’s marks facing out, using a suitable driver until the seal face is even with the end of the hole.

(13) Seal Guide: Use a seal guide for certain seals to avoid damaging the lips. Apply oil or grease to the lips before a shaft passes through.

(14) Circlip, Retaining Ring: Replace removed circlips and retaining rings with new ones. Compress or expand them only enough to install them.

(15) Cotter Pin: Replace any removed cotter pins with new ones.

(16) Lubrication: During assembly, apply oil or grease to any rubbing surface that has lost its lubricative film. Clean off old grease and dirty oil. Use the specific type of oil or grease recommended for the application.

(17) Electrical Wires: Wires are either single-color or two-color. A two-color wire is identified by the primary color first, then the secondary color (e.g., a yellow wire with thin red stripes is a “yellow/red” wire).

(18) Replacement Parts: When instructed, replace parts with new ones every time they are removed.

(19) Inspection: Visually inspect disassembled parts for conditions like abrasion, cracks, dents, scratches, wear, etc. If in doubt, replace the part.

(20) Specifications: “Standards” show dimensions for new parts. “Service Limits” indicate the usable limits. If a measurement shows excessive wear, replace the damaged part.

Specifications are subject to change without notice.

The following chart shows the recommended intervals for periodic inspection and maintenance. A bullet (•) indicates that the item should be performed at that interval.

(1): Service more frequently under dusty conditions.

★: These items must be performed with the proper tools. See your authorized Kawasaki Engine Dealer for service, unless you have the proper equipment and mechanical proficiency.

The following tables list the tightening torque for major fasteners. Letters in the “Remarks” column indicate special instructions:

L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads.

M: Apply a molybdenum disulfide lubricant (grease or oil).

O: Apply an oil to the threads, seated surface, or washer.

S: Tighten the fasteners following the specified sequence.

SS: Apply silicone sealant.

Fastener Torque Values

Basic Torque for General Fasteners (where a specific value is not required)

WARNING: Always keep your hands clear of the moving parts.

1. Disconnect all possible external loads from the engine.

2. Start the engine and warm it up thoroughly.

3. Adjust the low idle speed screw [C] with a Phillips Screwdriver [D] until the engine idles at the specified speed.

Idle Speed (Carburetor idle rpm): 1450 rpm

4. Release the throttle lever and adjust the low idle speed set screw [B] on the control plate to obtain the specified governed low idle speed.

Low Idle Speed (Governed idle rpm): 1550 rpm

NOTE: High idle speed adjustment should be made after the idle speed adjustment is performed.

CAUTION: Do not adjust high idle speed with the air cleaner removed.

WARNING: Always keep your hands clear of the moving parts.

1. Start and warm up the engine thoroughly.

2. Move the throttle lever at a dash to the high idle position and match the lever hole position with the panel hole by inserting a 6 mm dia. pin or bolt [A].

3. Loosen two M6 control panel mounting bolts [B] enough to move the control panel assembly.

4. Carefully move the control panel assembly right side [C] up or down to obtain the specified high idle speed.

High Idle Speed: 3600 rpm

5. Tighten the M6 Mounting bolts.

Torque – Control Panel Mounting Bolts: 5.9 N·m (0.60 kg·m, 52 in·lb)

6. Remove the 6 mm dia. pin or bolt.

7. Check the idle speed, and readjust the idle speed if necessary.

CAUTION: Be sure to make the idle and high idle speeds respectively correspond to those of the equipment.

At high altitude, the standard carburetor air-fuel mixture will be excessively rich, decreasing performance and increasing fuel consumption. To improve high altitude performance, install a smaller diameter main jet in the carburetor and correct the idle speed.

Main jet high altitude kits are available. The main jet numbers are stamped on the ends of the main jets. Refer to the table below for the correct main jet number based on your altitude.

High Altitude Main Jet Numbers

1. Place the engine (equipment) on a level surface.

2. Close the fuel shut off valve in the equipment.

3. Drain the fuel in the carburetor completely by unscrewing the drain screw at the bottom of the float chamber.

4. Remove the carburetor (see Carburetor Removal).

5. Unscrew the main jet plugs [C] and take off the main jet plugs and gaskets.

6. Make sure that the “L” or “R” mark on the float chamber corresponds to the main jet position.

7. Using a proper blade screw driver, carefully replace the main jet [D] with a new one for the expected altitude.

8. Tighten the main jet to the specified torque.

Torque – Main Jet Plug: 19 N·m (1.9 kg·m, 14 ft·lb)

9. Install the gasket and the main jet plug.

This test applies to the electric starter model.

1. Unscrew the fuel shut off valve and remove it from the carburetor.

2. Connect a 12 VDC source to the solenoid as shown in the manual’s diagram (positive to the terminal, negative to the body).

3. If the solenoid plunger (Needle Valve) does not pop in when the test voltage is applied, replace the solenoid valve.

NOTE: It may be necessary to push the plunger slightly for the plunger to withdraw.

WARNING: Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be explosive under certain conditions. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Do not smoke. Make sure the area is well-ventilated and free from any source of flame or sparks; this includes any appliance with a pilot light.

1. Disconnect the fuel pump outlet nozzle from the tube.

2. Connect a suitable hose to the outlet nozzle.

3. Run the lower end of the hose into a container.

4. Start the engine and check the fuel flow.

5. If there is little or no fuel flow, replace the fuel pump.

6. If the fuel pump is replaced and the issue persists, check for clogged or damaged tubes and fuel filter. Replace any faulty parts.

1. Visually inspect the fuel filter.

2. If the filter is clear with no signs of dirt or other contamination, it is OK and does not need to be replaced.

3. If the filter is dark or looks dirty, replace it with a new one. Also, check the rest of the fuel system for contamination.

1. Before measuring, ensure the battery is fully charged and thoroughly warm up the engine. Then, stop the engine.

2. Disconnect the spark plug caps of each cylinder and remove the spark plugs.

3. WARNING: To avoid fire, do not ground the spark plugs in proximity to the plug holes. Keep the plugs as far away as possible from the plug holes.

4. Ground the spark plugs to the engine.

5. Attach the compression gauge assembly firmly into one plug hole. Use Special Tool Compression Gauge: 57001–221 and Compression Gauge Adapter: 57001–1159.

6. With the throttle fully open, use the starter motor to turn the engine over until the compression gauge stops rising. The compression is the highest reading obtainable.

Cylinder Compression (MIN): 390 kPa (57 psi)

7. Repeat the measurement for the other cylinder.

If compression is higher than specified, the rings, cylinder, and valves are likely in good condition.

If compression is too high, check for carbon build-up, incorrect gasket thickness, or worn valve guides/piston rings.

If cylinder compression is lower than the minimum, check for gas leakage around the cylinder head, the condition of valve seating, valve clearance, piston/cylinder wear, or piston seizure.

NOTE: Valve clearance must be checked when the engine is cold (at room temperature).

Inspection:

1. Remove the rocker cover.

2. Turn the crankshaft clockwise (facing the flywheel) to place the piston at Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke. For the #1 cylinder, the left projection on the flywheel should align with the right leg of the #1 ignition coil. For the #2 cylinder, the left projection should align with the right leg of the #2 ignition coil.

3. Using a thickness gauge, measure the valve clearance between the rocker arm and the valve stem end.

Valve Clearance (when cold): 0.075 – 0.125 mm (0.003 – 0.005 in.)

4. If the clearance is incorrect, adjust it.

Adjustment:

1. Loosen the valve clearance lock screws [A] and adjusting nuts [B].

2. Insert a 0.07 mm (0.003 in.) thickness gauge [C] between the rocker arm and valve stem.

3. Tighten the adjusting nut until the thickness gauge begins to bind. Use a sweeping motion with the gauge while making this adjustment.

4. Hold the adjusting nut with a spanner and tighten the lock screw to the specified torque. Do not overtighten.

Torque – Valve Clearance Lock screws: 6.9 N·m (0.70 kg·m, 61 in·lb)

5. Remeasure the clearance and readjust if necessary.

Oil Level Inspection

1. Place the engine on a level surface.

2. Remove the oil filler cap [A] and wipe its dipstick [B] clean.

3. Insert the dipstick into the tube [C] without screwing it in, then check the oil level.

4. The oil level should be in the operating range [D] (grid area) on the dipstick.

5. If the oil level is at the “ADD” range [E], add enough engine oil to bring the level to the operating range.

CAUTION: Do not add more oil above the operating range. Excess oil will cause a smoking condition.

Oil Change

Change oil after the first 8 hours of operation, then every 100 hours thereafter.

1. Start and warm up the engine so the oil will drain easily, then stop the engine.

2. Place the engine on a level surface.

3. Place a suitable container under the engine.

4. Remove the drain plug [A] and drain the oil.

WARNING: Be careful of hot oil when drained. It may be hot enough to burn you severely.

5. Check the O-ring [B] on the drain plug for damage. Replace if damaged.

6. Install the drain plug with the O-ring and tighten it.

Torque – Oil Drain Plug (Metal): 20 N·m (2.0 kg·m, 14.5 ft·lb)

7. Remove the oil filler cap and pour in the specified type and amount of oil. Use SF, SG, SH or SJ Class oil. See the manual for viscosity recommendations based on ambient temperature.

Capacity (When filter is removed): 1.8 L (1.9 US qt)

8. Reinstall the oil filler cap.

Oil Filter Removal

1. Using a strap wrench or oil filter wrench (Special Tool: 57001–1249), remove the oil filter [B].

2. Place a suitable container beneath the filter to catch oil as you unscrew it counterclockwise.

Oil Filter Installation

1. Apply a light film of engine oil to the seal [A] of the new filter.

2. Install the new filter. Turn it until the seal contacts the mounting surface [B].

3. Then turn the filter BY HAND an additional 3/4 turn.

4. Run the engine at slow idle for 2 minutes and check for leaks.

5. Stop the engine and check the oil level.

Oil Cooler Removal

1. Remove the oil filter.

2. Unscrew the mounting joint [A] and remove the oil cooler [B].

3. Check the O-ring [C] in the groove of the oil cooler for damage and replace if necessary.

Oil Cooler Installation

1. Install the oil cooler with the mounting joint and tighten it.

Torque – Oil Cooler Mounting Joint: 44 N·m (4.5 kg·m, 33 ft·lb)

2. Install the oil filter.

Follow these steps to troubleshoot a hard-to-start engine:

1. Check for Spark: Remove the spark plug and ground it against the engine block while cranking. Are sparks produced?

• YES: Is the spark plug that was just tested the one that was in the engine, or a new one? If it’s the original, replace the faulty spark plug. If a spark is produced with a new plug, the problem is likely not ignition.

• NO: Is a spark produced when the ignition coil is replaced? If yes, the original ignition coil was faulty. If no, check for an incorrect air gap or a faulty flywheel.

2. Check Compression: Is the compression sufficient?

• YES: Proceed to step 3.

• NO: Check for worn piston/rings, stuck rings, worn cylinder bore, poor valve/seat contact, warped cylinder head, stuck valve, or broken valve spring. Repair or replace as necessary.

3. Check Fuel Supply: Make starting attempts and then check the spark plug electrodes. Are they wet?

• WET (YES): This indicates excessive use of choke, a plugged air cleaner, or a high fuel level in the float bowl. Correct the issue (clean/replace air cleaner, adjust float level). Remove the plug and turn the crankshaft to clear the excess fuel.

• DRY (NO): This indicates no fuel. Check if the fuel tank is empty, if dust/air is in the fuel system, or if there’s a plugged fuel filter, fuel line, or air hole in the tank cap. Clean or add fuel as needed.

4. Check Carburetor: If the above steps do not resolve the issue, check the carburetor for plugged fuel lines, plugged air passages, incorrect float level, or incorrect settings. Clean, adjust, or repair as needed.

If your engine is experiencing a loss of power, follow this diagnostic procedure:

1. Is the engine overheated?

• YES: Check for low oil level, too much oil, excessive load, improperly adjusted carburetor, carbon deposit in the combustion chamber, a clogged cooling system, or a damaged cooling fan. Adjust, clean, or repair as needed.

• NO: Proceed to the next step.

2. Is the ignition spark normal?

• NO: This could be a wrong spark plug, a faulty ignition coil, or an incorrect air gap. Replace the plug, coil, or adjust the gap.

• YES: Proceed to the next step.

3. Is the lubrication condition normal?

• NO: There may be too much or too little oil in the crankcase, or the oil is extremely contaminated. Correct the oil level or change the oil.

• YES: This could indicate a clogged oil filter, faulty relief valve, faulty oil pump, or a clogged oil system. Replace or clean the affected parts.

4. Is there unusual smoke from the muffler?

• YES: This points to a plugged air cleaner or carbon deposit in the exhaust hole and muffler. Clean these components.

• NO: Proceed to the next step.

5. Is compression sufficient?

• NO: The cause is likely worn piston rings, an improperly adjusted cam, too much oil, worn piston/cylinder bore. Adjust, add/remove oil, or replace parts as needed.

If the starter motor does not rotate, follow these troubleshooting steps:

1. Listen for a click sound from the solenoid switch when you turn the key to “START”.

2. If there is NO click:

• Check for a faulty battery. Charge or replace.

• Inspect for faulty leads or connections. Repair or replace.

• Check for a melted fuse. Replace.

• Test the engine switch. Repair or replace.

• Test the solenoid (switch). Replace.

3. If there IS a click:

• Check for a weak battery. Charge or replace.

• Inspect for a faulty lead or connection from the solenoid to the starter motor. Repair or replace.

• Test the solenoid switch (main terminal). Replace.

• Inspect the starter motor itself. Repair or replace.

If the starter motor rotates slowly, perform the following checks:

1. Check if the battery is normal and well charged.

• If the battery is weak, charge or replace it.

• If the battery is okay, proceed to the next step.

2. Inspect the electrical connections:

• Check for faulty leads or a poor connection at the solenoid (to the motor). Repair or replace.

• Test the solenoid switch (main terminal). Replace if faulty.

• Test the main engine switch. Repair or replace if faulty.

• Inspect the starter motor itself for internal issues. Repair or replace.

If the starter rotates but doesn’t engage the engine, check the following:

1. Does the pinion mesh with the ring gear?

• NO: Check for a worn pinion or ring gear, or incorrect starter alignment. Replace parts or correct the alignment.

• YES: This indicates a faulty pinion clutch or a seized engine. Replace the faulty pinion clutch or repair the engine.