KAWASAKI FH451V (01) PDF Document

To protect the environment, Kawasaki has incorporated crankcase emission and exhaust emission control systems (EM) in compliance with applicable regulations of the United States Environmental Protection Agency and California Air Resources Board.

1. Crankcase Emission Control System

A sealed-type crankcase emission control system is used to eliminate blow-by gases. The blow-by gases are led to the breather chamber through the crankcase. Then, it is led to the air cleaner. Oil is separated from the gases while passing through the inside of the breather chamber from the crankcase, and then returned back to the bottom of the crankcase.

2. Exhaust Emission Control System

The exhaust emission control system applied to this engine consists of a carburetor and an ignition system having optimum ignition timing characteristics. The carburetor has been calibrated to provide lean air/fuel mixture characteristics and optimum fuel economy with a suitable air cleaner and exhaust system.

TAMPERING WITH EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM PROHIBITED

Federal law and California State law prohibits the following acts or the causing thereof: (1) the removal or rendering inoperative by any person other than for purposes of maintenance, repair, or replacement, of any device or element of design incorporated into any new engine for the purpose of emission control prior to its sale or delivery to the ultimate purchaser or while it is in use, or (2) the use of the engine after such device or element of design has been removed or rendered inoperative by any person.

Among those acts presumed to constitute tampering are the acts listed below:

Do not tamper with the original emission related parts:

• Carburetor and internal parts

• Spark plugs

• Magneto or electronic ignition system

• Fuel filter element

• Air cleaner elements

• Crankcase

• Cylinder heads

• Breather chamber and internal parts

• Intake pipe and tube

Before starting to service the engine, please note the following points:

(1) Dirt: Before removal and disassembly, clean the engine. Any dirt entering the engine, carburetor, or other parts will work as an abrasive and shorten the life of the engine. For the same reason, before installing a new part, clean off any dust or metal filings.

(2) Battery Ground: Remove the ground (–) lead from the battery before performing any disassembly operations on the equipment. This prevents accidental engine turnover, sparks at connections, and damage to electrical parts.

(3) Tightening Sequence: When installing a part with several bolts, nuts, or screws, start them all in their holes and tighten them to a snug fit. Then tighten them evenly in a staggered sequence to avoid distortion and leakage. When loosening, first loosen all of them by about a quarter of a turn and then remove them. Follow any specific tightening sequence provided.

(4) Torque: Use a good quality, reliable torque wrench to tighten fasteners to the specified values. Incorrect torque can lead to serious damage.

(5) Force: Use common sense. If a part is difficult to remove or install, stop and find the cause. Use a wooden or plastic-faced mallet for light tapping. An impact driver is recommended for screws held by a locking agent.

(6) Edges: Be cautious of sharp edges. Protect your hands with gloves or a thick cloth when lifting or turning the engine.

(7) High-Flash Point Solvent: Use a high-flash point solvent to reduce fire danger. Always follow manufacturer directions.

(8) Gasket, O-Ring: Do not reuse gaskets or O-rings. Ensure mating surfaces are clean and smooth to prevent leaks.

(9) Liquid Gasket, Non-Permanent Locking Agent: Apply sparingly according to manufacturer’s directions. Excessive amounts can block oil passages.

(10) Press: A part installed with a press or driver should be coated with oil on its circumference for smooth installation.

(11) Ball Bearing: When installing a ball bearing, push on the race that is affected by friction to prevent stress and damage. Press it until it stops.

(12) Oil Seal and Grease Seal: Replace any removed seals with new ones. Press them in with the manufacturer’s marks facing out, using a suitable driver until the seal face is even with the end of the hole.

(13) Seal Guide: Use a seal guide for certain seals to avoid lip damage. Apply a little oil or grease to the seal lips before a shaft passes through.

(14) Circlip, Retaining Ring: Replace any removed circlips and retaining rings with new ones. Compress or expand them only enough to install them.

(15) Cotter Pin: Replace any removed cotter pins with new ones.

(16) Lubrication: During assembly, apply oil or grease to any rubbing surface that has lost its lubricative film. Clean off old grease and dirty oil. Use only the recommended types of oil and grease for specific applications.

(17) Electrical Wires: Wires are either single-color or two-color. Connect wires of the same color. A two-color wire is identified by its primary color first, then the secondary color (e.g., a yellow wire with thin red stripes is a “yellow/red” wire).

(18) Replacement Parts: When instructed, replace parts with new ones every time they are removed.

(19) Inspection: Visually inspect disassembled parts for conditions like abrasion, cracks, dents, wear, etc. Replace any part if its condition is doubtful.

(20) Specifications: “Standards” show dimensions for new parts. “Service Limits” indicate the usable limits. If a measurement exceeds the service limit, replace the part.

The cylinder numbering designation for the KAWASAKI FH451V is as follows:

• No.1 Cylinder is the left-hand cylinder when viewed from the air cleaner.

• No.2 Cylinder is the right-hand cylinder when viewed from the air cleaner.

Note: Specifications are subject to change without notice.

The following chart shows the recommended maintenance intervals for the KAWASAKI FH451V.

(1): Service more frequently under dusty conditions.

★: These items must be performed with the proper tools. See your authorized Kawasaki Engine Dealer for service, unless you have the proper equipment and mechanical proficiency.

The following tables list the tightening torque for major fasteners. The letters in the “Remarks” column indicate:

S: Tighten the fasteners following the specified sequence.

O: Apply an oil to the threads, seated surface, or washer.

SS: Apply silicone sealant.

Fuel System:

Cooling System:

Engine Top End:

Lubrication System:

Camshaft/Crankshaft:

Electrical System:

For bolts and nuts that do not have a specific torque value, use the following table. These values are for use with dry, solvent-cleaned threads.

Low Idle Speed Adjustment

1. Disconnect all possible external loads from the engine.

2. Start the engine and warm it up thoroughly.

WARNING: Always keep your hands clear of the moving parts.

3. Move the throttle lever on the dash to the idle position.

4. Hold the throttle lever on the carburetor in the closed position (turn the governor arm clockwise all the way).

5. Adjust the low idle speed screw until the engine idles at the specified carburetor idle rpm.

Idle Speed (Carburetor idle rpm): 1450 rpm

6. Release the throttle lever and adjust the low idle speed set screw on the control plate to obtain the specified governed low idle speed.

Low Idle Speed (Governed idle rpm): 1550 rpm

High Idle Speed Adjustment

NOTE: High idle speed adjustment should be made after the idle speed adjustment is performed.

CAUTION: Do not adjust high idle speed with the air cleaner removed.

1. Start and warm up the engine thoroughly.

WARNING: Always keep your hands clear of the moving parts.

2. Move the throttle lever at a dash to the high idle position and match the lever hole position with the panel hole by inserting a 6 mm dia. pin or bolt.

3. Loosen the two M6 control panel mounting bolts enough to move the control panel assembly.

4. Carefully move the control panel assembly right side up or down to obtain the specified high idle speed.

High Idle Speed: 3600 rpm

5. Tighten the M6 Mounting bolts.

Torque – Control Panel Mounting Bolts: 5.9 N·m (0.60 kg·m, 52 in·lb)

6. Remove the 6 mm dia. pin or bolt.

7. Check the idle speed, and readjust the idle speed if necessary.

CAUTION: Be sure to make the idle and high idle speeds respectively correspond to those of the equipment.

At high altitude, the standard carburetor air-fuel mixture will be excessively rich, decreasing performance and increasing fuel consumption. To improve high altitude performance, install a smaller diameter main jet in the carburetor and correct the idle speed.

NOTE: Main jet high altitude kits are available. The main jet numbers are stamped on the ends of the main jets.

High Altitude Main Jet for KAWASAKI FH451V

Main Jet Replacement Procedure:

1. Place the engine (equipment) on a level surface.

2. Close the fuel shut off valve in the equipment.

3. Drain the fuel in the carburetor completely by unscrewing the drain screw at the bottom of the float chamber.

4. Remove the carburetor.

5. Unscrew the float chamber bolt and take off the float chamber.

6. Unscrew the solenoid valve, and take off the valve and gasket (Electric Starter Model).

7. Using a proper blade screwdriver, carefully replace the main jet with a new one for the altitude expected.

8. Tighten the main jet to the specification (see Carburetor Disassembly Assembly Notes).

9. Install the float chamber, gasket, and solenoid valve.

WARNING: Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be explosive under certain conditions. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Do not smoke. Make sure the area is well-ventilated and free from any source of flame or sparks; this includes any appliance with a pilot light.

1. Remove the air cleaner.

2. Place a suitable container under the drain screw on the carburetor.

3. Turn out the drain screw a few turns to drain the carburetor and check to see if water or dirt has accumulated in the carburetor.

4. Tighten the drain screw.

Torque – Drain Screw: 1.3 N·m (0.13 kg·m, 11 in·lb)

5. If any water or dirt is found, clean the carburetor, fuel tank, and check the fuel filter.

Carburetor Removal

WARNING: Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be explosive. Turn the ignition switch OFF. Do not smoke. Ensure the area is well-ventilated and free from any source of flame or sparks.

1. Remove the Air Cleaner and Related Parts.

2. Turn the fuel shut off valve to the OFF position.

3. Drain the carburetor.

4. Disconnect the fuel tube at the fuel inlet joint of the carburetor.

5. Disconnect the solenoid valve lead terminal and remove the earth terminal (Electric Starter Model).

6. Unhook the throttle link spring at the throttle shaft lever top end with a long nose plier.

7. Unhook the throttle and choke link rods at the top ends of their arms while pulling off the carburetor.

Carburetor Installation

1. Clean the mating surfaces of the carburetor and intake manifold, and fit new gaskets.

2. Take care not to bend the throttle and choke link rods during installation. Make sure the link spring around the throttle link rod is in place and that it pulls the governor arm and carburetor throttle shaft lever toward each other.

3. Be sure the fuel tube clip ends face a horizontal direction.

WARNING: Improper installation of the fuel intake hose clamp can result in gasoline leakage and potential fire hazard. Be sure the clip ends of the hose clamp face in a horizontal direction. In a vertical position, the clip ends can come into contact with the intake pipe and become loose.

4. After installation, adjust the Carburetor Pilot Screw and Idle Speed.

When disassembling and assembling the carburetor, follow these steps:

• There are several passage plugs (Ball plugs) in the carburetor body. Do not remove them.

• Before disassembly, mark the outside of the choke valve and throttle valves for correct reassembly.

• If the pilot screw needs replacement, follow this procedure:

1. Carefully mark the position of the pilot screw limiter on the carburetor body so it can be reinstalled to its original position.

2. Remove the limiter without turning the pilot screw.

3. Turn the pilot screw clockwise and count the number of turns until it is gently seated. Record this number.

4. Turn out the pilot screw to replace it.

5. Install the new pilot screw until it is gently seated, then open it the same number of turns as recorded before.

6. Align the limiter with the mark on the carburetor body to install it, taking care not to turn the pilot screw.

• Install the choke valve and throttle valve on the shaft with the outside mark facing out.

• Drive the float pin so that its big diameter side faces the engine flange side.

• The fuel inlet valve seat is pressed into the carburetor body and is not replaceable.

• Assemble carburetor parts using the recommended tightening torques as shown in the exploded view diagram.

For a list of parts, refer to the carburetor diagram in the service manual.

WARNING: Clean the carburetor in a well-ventilated area, and take care that there are no sparks or flames anywhere near the working area; this includes any appliance with a pilot light. Because of the danger of highly flammable liquids, do not use gasoline or low flash-point solvents to clean the carburetors.

CAUTION:

• Do not use compressed air on an assembled carburetor, or the floats may be crushed by the pressure.

• Remove as many rubber or plastic parts from the carburetor as possible before cleaning the carburetor with a cleaning solution. This will prevent damage or deterioration of the parts.

• The carburetor body has plastic parts that cannot be removed. Do not use a strong carburetor cleaning solution which could attack these parts; instead, use a mild high flash-point cleaning solution safe for plastic parts.

• Do not use wire or any other hard instrument to clean carburetor parts, especially jets, as they may be damaged.

Cleaning Procedure:

1. Disassemble the carburetor.

2. Immerse all the carburetor metal parts in a carburetor cleaning solution and clean them.

3. Rinse the parts in water and dry them with compressed air.

4. Do not use rags or paper to dry parts. Lint may plug the holes or passages.

5. Blow air through the holes and fuel passages with compressed air. All holes must be open.

6. Assemble the carburetor.

1. Before measuring, ensure the battery is fully charged. Thoroughly warm up the engine, then stop it.

2. Disconnect the spark plug caps of each cylinder and remove the spark plugs.

3. Attach the compression gauge (Special Tool: 57001–221) with an adapter (Special Tool: 57001–1159) firmly into one plug hole.

4. Ground the spark plugs to the engine.

WARNING: To avoid fire, do not ground the spark plugs in proximity to the plug holes. Keep the plugs as far away as possible from the plug holes.

5. For Recoil Model: With the throttle fully open, turn the engine over sharply with the recoil starter several times until the compression gauge stops rising. The highest reading is the compression value.

6. For Electric Starter Model: With the throttle fully open, use the starter motor to turn the engine over until the compression gauge stops rising.

Cylinder Compression (MIN): 390 kPa (57 psi)

7. Repeat the measurement for the other cylinder.

Interpreting the Results:

• If compression is higher than specified: The piston rings, cylinder, and valves are likely in good condition.

• If compression is too high, check for:

– Carbon build-up on the piston crown and cylinder head.

– Use of an incorrect thickness cylinder head gasket.

– Worn valve guides or piston oil rings causing rapid carbon accumulation.

• If cylinder compression is lower than the minimum, check for:

– Gas leakage around the cylinder head (replace gasket, check for head warp).

– Poor valve seating.

– Incorrect valve clearance.

– Piston/cylinder wear or seizure.

– Worn or damaged piston ring/groove.

NOTE: Valve clearance must be checked when the engine is cold (at room temperature).

Valve Clearance Inspection

1. Remove the rocker cover.

2. Turn the crankshaft clockwise (facing the flywheel) to place the piston at Top Dead Center (TDC) of its compression stroke.

– For No. 1 Cylinder: The left projection on the flywheel should be aligned with the right leg on the #1 ignition coil. Both intake and exhaust valves should be fully closed.

– For No. 2 Cylinder: The left projection on the flywheel should be aligned with the right leg on the #2 ignition coil.

3. Using a thickness gauge, measure the valve clearance between the rocker arm and the valve stem end.

Valve Clearance (when cold): Intake, Exhaust 0.075 – 0.125 mm (0.003 – 0.005 in.)

4. If the clearance is incorrect, adjust it.

Valve Clearance Adjustment

1. Ensure the piston is at TDC of the compression stroke as described above.

2. Loosen the lock screws and valve clearance adjusting nuts.

3. Insert a 0.07 mm (0.003 in.) thickness gauge between the rocker arm and valve stem.

4. Tighten the adjusting nut until the thickness gauge begins to bind. Use a sweeping motion with the gauge while making this adjustment.

5. Hold the adjusting nut with a spanner and tighten the lock screw to the specified torque.

Torque – Valve Clearance Lock screws: 6.9 N·m (0.70 kg·m, 61 in·lb)

6. Do not overtighten.

7. Remeasure the clearance. Readjust if necessary.

CAUTION: Engine operation with insufficient, deteriorated, or contaminated engine oil will cause accelerated wear and may result in engine seizure.

Oil Level Inspection

1. Place the engine on a level surface.

2. Remove the oil filler cap and wipe its dipstick with a clean cloth.

3. Insert the dipstick into the tube without screwing it in, then check the oil level.

4. The oil level should be in the operating range (grid area) on the dipstick.

5. If the oil level is at the “ADD” range, add enough specified engine oil to bring the level to the operating range.

CAUTION: Do not add more oil above the operating range. Excess oil will cause a smoking condition.

6. If the oil level is at the “FULL” range, drain the excess oil by loosening the drain plug.

Oil Change

Change the oil after the first 8 hours of operation, and every 100 hours thereafter.

1. Start and warm up the engine so the oil will drain easily. Stop the engine.

2. Place the engine on a level surface.

3. Place a suitable container under the engine.

4. Remove the drain plug and drain the oil.

WARNING: Be careful of hot oil when drained. It may be hot enough to burn you severely.

5. Check the O-ring at the drain plug for damage. Replace it if necessary.

6. Install the drain plug with the O-ring and tighten it.

– Torque – Oil Drain Plug (Plastic): 6.9 N·m (0.7 kg·m, 61 in·lb)

– Torque – Oil Drain Plug (Metal): 20 N·m (2.0 kg·m, 14.5 ft·lb)

7. Remove the oil filler cap and pour in the specified type and amount of oil.

– Grade: SF, SG, SH or SJ Class

– Viscosity: SAE40, SAE30, SAE10W-30/SAE10W-40, or SAE5W-20

– Capacity (When filter is not removed): 1.5 L (1.6 US qt)

– Capacity (When filter is removed): 1.7 L (1.8 US qt)

8. Reinstall the oil filler cap.

Follow this troubleshooting guide if your engine is hard to start:

1. Check for Spark: Remove the spark plug and hold it against the engine block while cranking. WARNING: Keep the plug as far away from the plug hole as possible. To avoid electric shock, do not hold the plug itself. Make sure to hold the plug cap.

• Is a spark produced?

• YES: Is the spark plug that was replaced correct?

• YES: Go to step 2 (Check Compression).

• NO: Replace with the correct spark plug.

• NO: Is a spark produced when the ignition coil is replaced?

• YES: The original ignition coil was faulty. The issue is resolved.

• NO: The flywheel is likely faulty. Replace it.

2. Check Compression: Is compression sufficient?

• YES: Go to step 3 (Check Fuel).

• NO: The engine may have worn piston/piston rings, stuck piston rings, worn cylinder bore, insufficient cylinder head tightness, poor valve contact, warped cylinder head, or a broken head gasket. These require inspection and repair/replacement.

3. Check Fuel: Make starting attempts a number of times and then remove the spark plug and observe the electrodes. Are they wet?

• YES (Wet Electrodes): This indicates excessive use of choke, a plugged air cleaner, or too high a fuel level in the float bowl. Remove the plug, turn the crankshaft without loading, adjust the choke, and clean/adjust the air cleaner or fuel level.

• NO (Dry Electrodes): This indicates a fuel delivery problem.

• Check if there is fuel in the tank. If not, add fuel.

• Check for entry of dust or air into the fuel pipe.

• Check for a plugged air hole in the tank cap.

• Check for a plugged fuel filter or fuel line.

Clean or replace parts as needed.

4. Check Carburetor: If the above steps do not resolve the issue, check the carburetor for a plugged fuel line, plugged air passage, incorrect float level, or incorrect carb setting. Clean, adjust, or repair as necessary.

If your engine is losing power, follow these troubleshooting steps:

1. Is the engine overheated?

• YES: Check for low oil level, too much oil, excessive load, improperly adjusted carburetor, carbon deposit in the combustion chamber, a clogged cooling system, or a damaged cooling fan. Adjust, clean, or repair as needed.

• NO: Proceed to the next step.

2. Is the ignition spark normal?

• NO: Check for a wrong spark plug, faulty ignition coil, or incorrect air gap. Replace or adjust as needed.

• YES: Proceed to the next step.

3. Is the lubrication condition normal?

• NO: Check for too much or too little oil, contaminated lubricating oil, a clogged oil filter, a faulty relief valve, a faulty oil pump, or a clogged oil system. Correct, change, replace, or clean as necessary.

• YES: Proceed to the next step.

4. Is unusual smoke emitted from the muffler?

• YES: This could be caused by a plugged air cleaner, carbon deposit in the exhaust hole/muffler, improperly adjusted carburetor, too much oil, worn piston rings, or a worn cylinder bore. Clean, adjust, or perform repairs as needed.

• NO: Proceed to the next step.

5. Is compression sufficient?

• NO: Refer to troubleshooting for “Engine hard to start” related to compression issues.

CAUTION: If the starter does not stop by engine switch “OFF”, disconnect the negative (-) lead from the battery as soon as possible.

1. Listen for a click from the solenoid switch when you turn the key to “START”.

• If you hear a click:

• The battery may be weak. Charge or replace it.

• There may be a faulty lead or connection to the starter motor. Repair or replace.

• The faulty solenoid switch (main terminal) may be faulty. Replace it.

• The starter motor itself may be faulty. Repair or replace it.

• If you DO NOT hear a click:

• The battery may be faulty. Charge or replace it.

• Check for faulty leads or connections.

• The fuse may be melted. Replace it.

• The engine switch may be faulty. Replace it.

• The solenoid switch may be faulty. Replace it.

CAUTION: If the starter does not stop by engine switch “OFF”, disconnect the negative (-) lead from the battery as soon as possible.

Check if the pinion gear is meshing with the ring gear.

• If it IS NOT meshing:

• The pinion or ring gear may be worn. Replace the worn part.

• The starter alignment may be incorrect. Correct the alignment.

• If it IS meshing:

• The pinion clutch may be faulty. Replace it.

• The engine itself may be seized or faulty. Repair or replace engine components.