KAWASAKI FH500V (01) PDF Document

To protect the environment, Kawasaki has incorporated crankcase emission (1) and exhaust emission (2) control systems (EM) in compliance with applicable regulations of the United States Environmental Protection Agency and California Air Resources Board.

1. Crankcase Emission Control System

A sealed-type crankcase emission control system is used to eliminate blow-by gases. The blow-by gases are led to the breather chamber through the crankcase. Then, it is led to the air cleaner. Oil is separated from the gases while passing through the inside of the breather chamber from the crankcase, and then returned back to the bottom of crankcase.

2. Exhaust Emission Control System

The exhaust emission control system applied to this engine consists of a carburetor and an ignition system having optimum ignition timing characteristics. The carburetor has been calibrated to provide lean air/fuel mixture characteristics and optimum fuel economy with a suitable air cleaner and exhaust system.

TAMPERING WITH EMISSION CONTROL SYSTEM PROHIBITED

Federal law and California State law prohibit the following acts or the causing thereof: (1) the removal or rendering inoperative by any person other than for purposes of maintenance, repair, or replacement, of any device or element of design incorporated into any new engine for the purpose of emission control prior to its sale or delivery to the ultimate purchaser or while it is in use, or (2) the use of the engine after such device or element of design has been removed or rendered inoperative by any person.

Among those acts presumed to constitute tampering are the acts listed below:

Do not tamper with the original emission related part:

• Carburetor and internal parts

• Spark plugs

• Magneto or electronic ignition system

• Fuel filter element

• Air cleaner elements

• Crankcase

• Cylinder heads

• Breather chamber and internal parts

• Intake pipe and tube

(1) Dirt: Before removal and disassembly, clean the engine. Any dirt entering the engine, carburetor, or other parts will work as an abrasive and shorten the life of the engine. For the same reason, before installing a new part, clean off any dust or metal filings.

(2) Battery Ground: Remove the ground (–) lead from the battery before performing any disassembly operations on the equipment. This prevents accidental turning of the engine, sparks at electrical connections, and damage to electrical parts.

(3) Tightening Sequence: When installing a part with several bolts, nuts, or screws, start them all in their holes and tighten them to a snug fit. Then tighten them evenly in a staggered sequence to avoid distortion. When loosening, first loosen all of them by about a quarter of a turn and then remove them. Follow any specific tightening sequence indicated in the service manual.

(4) Torque: Use a good quality, reliable torque wrench to tighten fasteners to the specified values. Incorrect torque can lead to serious damage.

(5) Force: Use common sense. If a part is difficult to remove or install, stop and find the cause. Use a wooden or plastic-faced mallet for tapping. Use an impact driver for screws held by a locking agent.

(6) Edges: Watch for sharp edges, especially during major engine disassembly. Protect your hands with gloves or a thick cloth.

(7) High-Flash Point Solvent: Use a high-flash point solvent to reduce fire danger. Always follow manufacturer directions.

(8) Gasket, O-Ring: Do not reuse gaskets or O-rings. Mating surfaces should be clean and smooth to avoid leaks.

(9) Liquid Gasket, Non-Permanent Locking Agent: Follow manufacturer’s directions. Apply sparingly to avoid blocking oil passages.

(10) Press: A part installed with a press should be coated with oil on its outer or inner circumference for smooth installation.

(11) Ball Bearing: When installing a ball bearing, push the race that is affected by friction with a suitable driver to prevent stress on the balls and races.

(12) Oil Seal and Grease Seal: Replace any removed oil or grease seals with new ones. Press seals in with manufacturer’s marks facing out, using a suitable driver until the seal face is even with the end of the hole.

(13) Seal Guide: Use a seal guide for certain seals to avoid lip damage. Apply a little oil or grease to the seal lips before a shaft passes through.

(14) Circlip, Retaining Ring: Replace any removed circlips and retaining rings with new ones. Compress or expand them only enough to install them.

(15) Cotter Pin: Replace any removed cotter pins with new ones.

(16) Lubrication: During assembly, apply oil or grease to any rubbing surface that has lost its lubricative film. Clean off old grease and dirty oil. Use specific oils and greases as recommended.

(17) Electrical Wires: Wires are either single-color or two-color. Connect wires of the same color. A two-color wire is identified by the primary color first, then the secondary color (e.g., a yellow wire with thin red stripes is a “yellow/red” wire).

(18) Replacement Parts: When instructed, replace parts with new ones every time they are removed.

(19) Inspection: Visually inspect disassembled parts for conditions like abrasion, cracks, dents, warping, wear, etc. If in doubt, replace the part.

(20) Specifications: “Standards” show dimensions or performance of new parts. “Service Limits” indicate the usable limits. If a measurement exceeds the service limit, replace the damaged parts.

Note: Specifications are subject to change without notice.

Follow this chart for periodic inspection and maintenance. Some items require special tools and should be performed by an authorized Kawasaki Engine Dealer if you do not have the proper equipment or proficiency.

FH451V, FH500V, FH531V

(1): Service more frequently under dusty conditions.

★: These items must be performed with the proper tools. See your authorized Kawasaki Engine Dealer for service, unless you have the proper equipment and mechanical proficiency.

1. Disconnect all possible external loads from the engine.

2. Start the engine and warm it up thoroughly.

WARNING: Always keep your hands clear of the moving parts.

3. Move the throttle lever on the dash to the idle position.

4. Hold the throttle lever on the carburetor in the closed position by turning the governor arm clockwise all the way.

5. Adjust the low idle speed screw until the engine idles at the specified speed.

Idle Speed (Carburetor idle rpm): 1450 rpm

6. Release the throttle lever.

7. Adjust the low idle speed set screw on the control plate to obtain the specified governed low idle speed.

Low Idle Speed (Governed idle rpm): 1550 rpm

NOTE: High idle speed adjustment should be made after the idle speed adjustment is performed.

CAUTION: Do not adjust high idle speed with the air cleaner removed.

1. Start and warm up the engine thoroughly.

WARNING: Always keep your hands clear of the moving parts.

2. Move the throttle lever at a dash to the high idle position.

3. Match the lever hole position with the panel hole by inserting a 6 mm diameter pin or bolt.

4. Loosen the two M6 control panel mounting bolts enough to move the control panel assembly.

5. Carefully move the control panel assembly right side up or down to obtain the specified high idle speed.

High Idle Speed: 3600 rpm

6. Tighten the M6 Mounting bolts.

Torque – Control Panel Mounting Bolts: 5.9 N·m (0.60 kg·m, 52 in·lb)

7. Remove the 6 mm diameter pin or bolt.

8. Check the idle speed, and readjust the idle speed if necessary.

CAUTION: Be sure to make the idle and high idle speeds respectively correspond to those of the equipment.

This test applies to the electric starter model of the KAWASAKI FH500V.

1. Unscrew the fuel shut off valve and remove it from the carburetor.

2. Connect a 12 VDC source to the solenoid as shown in the manual’s diagram (connecting positive to the lead and negative to the body).

3. If the solenoid plunger (Needle Valve) does not pop in when the test voltage is applied, replace the valve.

NOTE: It may be necessary to push the plunger slightly for the plunger to withdraw.

Follow these troubleshooting steps if your KAWASAKI FH500V engine is hard to start:

1. Check for Spark: Remove the spark plug and turn the engine over while having the plug earthed against the engine block. WARNING: Keep the plug as far away as possible from the plug hole. To avoid an electric shock, do not hold the plug itself. Make sure to hold the plug cap.

• If there is NO spark: Check if a spark is produced when the ignition coil is replaced.

• YES: The original ignition coil was faulty. The problem should be resolved.

• NO: The issue may be an incorrect air gap or a faulty flywheel. Correct or replace as needed.

• If there IS a spark: Check if a spark is produced when the spark plug is replaced.

• YES: The original spark plug was faulty. Replace the spark plug.

• NO: The issue is likely not with the spark. Proceed to the next step.

2. Check Compression: Is compression sufficient?

• NO: This could indicate worn piston/piston rings, stuck piston rings, improper cylinder head tightening, poor contact of the valve seat, incorrect valve clearance, a warped cylinder head by valve, a broken valve spring, a stuck valve, or a burned head gasket. Inspect and repair/replace parts as needed.

• YES: Proceed to the next step.

3. Check Fuel System: Make starting attempts a number of times and then remove the spark plug and observe the electrodes. Are they wet?

• NO (Electrodes are dry):

• No fuel in the tank -> Add fuel.

• Entry of dust or air into the fuel pipe or line -> Clean.

• Plugged air hole in tank cap -> Clean.

• Plugged fuel line -> Clean.

• YES (Electrodes are wet):

• Excessive use of choke -> Remove the plug and turn the crankshaft without loading.

• Plugged air cleaner -> Clean.

• Too high fuel level in float bowl -> Adjust.

4. Check Carburetor: If the above steps do not resolve the issue, check the carburetor for the following:

• Check for plugged fuel line.

• Check for plugged air passage.

• Check float level.

• Check carb. setting.

If your KAWASAKI FH500V engine is experiencing a loss of power, follow these troubleshooting steps:

1. Is the engine overheated?

• YES: Check for the following causes:

• Crankcase low on oil -> Adjust level or add oil.

• Too much oil in crankcase -> Adjust level.

• Excessive engine load -> Decrease load.

• Carburetor not properly adjusted -> Adjust.

• Carbon deposit in combustion chamber -> Clean.

• Clogging of cooling system -> Clean.

• Damaged cooling fan -> Replace.

• NO: Proceed to the next step.

2. Is the ignition spark normal?

• NO: Check for a wrong spark plug (replace), faulty ignition coil (replace), or incorrect air gap (adjust).

• YES: Proceed to the next step.

3. Is the lubrication condition normal?

• NO: There may be too much or too little oil in the crankcase. Correct the oil level.

• YES: Check for excessively contaminated lubricating oil (change), a clogged oil filter (replace), a faulty relief valve (replace), a faulty oil pump (replace), or a clogged oil system (clean).

4. Is there unusual smoke emitted out of the muffler?

• YES: Check for a plugged air cleaner (clean), carbon deposit in exhaust hole and muffler (clean), carburetor not properly adjusted (adjust), too much oil in crankcase (adjust level), worn piston/piston rings (replace), or worn cylinder bore (bore or replace).

• NO: Proceed to the next step.

5. Is compression sufficient?

• NO: See “Engine Starts Hard” troubleshooting for compression-related issues.

If your KAWASAKI FH500V engine runs erratically, check the following:

1. Spark Plug: Check if the spark plug is fouled, pitted, or gapped incorrectly. If so, replace or adjust it.

2. Fuel System: Check for problems in the fuel system.

• Entry of dust or water into fuel pipe or fuel filter -> Clean.

• Air or water lock in fuel line -> Clean.

• Plugged air vent of fuel tank -> Clean.

• Plugged air / fuel passes in carb -> Clean.

• Too little opening of carb. pilot screw -> Correct.

• Carb not properly adjusted -> Adjust.

• Carb. flange leaking at gasket -> Tighten or replace.

• Worn carb. body and throttle shaft -> Replace.

If you notice excessive fuel consumption, check the compression first.

• If compression IS sufficient:

• High fuel level in carb. float chamber (causing overflow) -> Adjust.

• High idling R.P.M -> Adjust.

• Choke partially closed -> Open choke.

• Excessively backed off carburetor pilot screw -> Adjust.

• If compression IS NOT sufficient:

• Worn piston / piston rings -> Replace.

• Stuck piston rings -> Clean or replace.

• Worn cylinder bore -> Bore or replace.

• Insufficient cyl. head tightness -> Retighten.

• Faulty valve seat contact -> Lap.

• Flange-up of valve -> Adjust valve clearance.

• Wrong valve timing -> Adjust.

• Broken valve spring -> Replace.

• Stuck valve -> Clean or replace.

First, check if the engine compression is sufficient.

• If compression IS sufficient:

• Plugged oil ring groove -> Clean.

• High oil level -> Adjust.

• Worn valve stems and valve guides -> Replace.

• Oil leakage along governor shaft -> Replace.

• Oil leakage from oil seal -> Replace.

• Oil leakage from mounting surface -> Replace gasket.

• Oil leakage from drain plug -> Retighten or replace gasket.

• Clogged breather valve -> Clean.

• Drain back hole in breather chamber plugged -> Clean.

• Incorrect oil viscosity -> Correct.

• If compression IS NOT sufficient:

• Worn piston rings -> Replace.

• Stuck piston rings -> Clean or replace.

• Worn cylinder bore -> Bore or replace.

• Broken piston ring -> Replace.

Engine Backfires:

• Loose carb. or intake manifold -> Tighten.

• Clogged cyl. head or leaking head gasket -> Tighten.

• Burnt or sticking intake valve -> Replace.

• Faulty ignition coil -> Replace.

• Carb. not properly adjusted -> Adjust.

Engine Knocks:

• Stale fuel -> Change.

• Excessive carbon deposit in engine -> Clean.

• Excessive engine load -> Adjust, see engine loss power.

• Engine overheating -> Adjust.

• Faulty ignition coil -> Replace.

First, disconnect the spark plug caps and turn the engine switch to “START” to check the condition. WARNING: The engine may crank. Do not touch any rotating parts.

[STARTER DOES NOT ROTATE]

• Is there a click sound from the solenoid?

• NO: Check for a faulty battery (charge or replace), faulty leads or connection (repair or replace), melted fuse (replace), faulty engine switch (replace), or faulty solenoid (replace).

• YES: Check for a weak battery (charge or replace), faulty lead or connection to the motor (repair or replace), faulty solenoid switch (main terminal) (replace), or a faulty starter motor (repair or replace).

[STARTER ROTATES BUT SLOW]

• Is the battery normal and well charged?

• NO: The battery is weak. Charge or replace.

• YES: Check for faulty leads or connection to the motor (repair or replace), faulty solenoid switch (main terminal) (replace), a faulty starter motor, or faulty engine parts.

[STARTER ROTATES BUT CAN NOT CRANK ENGINE]

• Does the pinion mesh with the ring gear?

• NO: Check for worn pinion or ring gear (replace) or incorrect starter alignment (correct).

• YES: Check for a faulty pinion clutch (replace) or a faulty engine part.

[STARTER DOES NOT STOP IN ENGINE SWITCH “OFF”]

• Can you stop the starter by turning the engine switch “OFF”?

• NO: Check for a faulty engine switch (repair or replace) or a faulty solenoid (switch) (replace).

• YES: This indicates a fault with the pinion or ring gear, incorrect starter alignment, or a faulty pinion return mechanism. Repair or replace as needed.