KAWASAKI FH531V (01) PDF Document

Federal law and California State law prohibit the following acts or the causing thereof:

1. The removal or rendering inoperative by any person other than for purposes of maintenance, repair, or replacement, of any device or element of design incorporated into any new engine for the purpose of emission control prior to its sale or delivery to the ultimate purchaser or while it is in use.

2. The use of the engine after such device or element of design has been removed or rendered inoperative by any person.

Among those acts presumed to constitute tampering are the acts listed below. Do not tamper with the original emission related parts:

• Carburetor and internal parts

• Spark plugs

• Magneto or electronic ignition system

• Fuel filter element

• Air cleaner elements

• Crankcase

• Cylinder heads

• Breather chamber and internal parts

• Intake pipe and tube

Please note the following best practices before starting any service on your engine:

(1) Dirt: Before removal and disassembly, clean the engine. Any dirt entering the engine, carburetor, or other parts, will work as an abrasive and shorten the life of the engine. For the same reason, before installing a new part, clean off any dust or metal filings.

(2) Battery Ground: Remove the ground (–) lead from the battery before performing any disassembly operations on the equipment. This prevents accidental starting, sparks, and damage to electrical parts.

(3) Tightening Sequence: When installing a part with several bolts, nuts, or screws, start them all in their holes and tighten them to a snug fit. Then tighten them evenly, in a staggered sequence. This is to avoid distortion of the part and/or causing gas or oil leakage. Conversely, when loosening bolts, nuts, or screws, first loosen all of them by about a quarter of a turn and then remove them.

(4) Torque: When torque values are given, use them. Either too little or too much torque may lead to serious damage. Use a good quality, reliable torque wrench.

(5) Force: If a part seems especially difficult to remove or install, stop and examine what may be causing the problem. Whenever tapping is necessary, tap lightly using a wooden or plastic-faced mallet.

(6) Edges: Watch for sharp edges, especially during major engine disassembly and assembly. Protect your hands with gloves or a piece of thick cloth.

(7) High-Flash Point Solvent: A high-flash point solvent is recommended to reduce fire danger. Always follow manufacturer and container directions regarding the use of any solvent.

(8) Gasket, O-Ring: Do not reuse a gasket or O-ring once it has been in service. The mating surfaces around the gasket should be free of foreign matter and perfectly smooth to avoid oil or compression leaks.

(9) Liquid Gasket, Non-Permanent Locking Agent: Follow manufacturer’s directions for cleaning and preparing surfaces where these compounds will be used. Apply sparingly. Excessive amounts may block engine oil passages and cause serious damage.

(10) Press: A part installed using a press or driver should first be coated with oil on its outer or inner circumference so that it will go into place smoothly.

(11) Ball Bearing: When installing a ball bearing, push the bearing race which is affected by friction with a suitable driver to prevent stress on the balls and races.

(12) Oil Seal and Grease Seal: Replace any oil or grease seals that were removed with new ones. When pressing in a seal which has manufacturer’s marks, press it in with the marks facing out.

(13) Seal Guide: Before a shaft passes through a seal, apply a little oil, preferably high temperature grease on the lips to reduce rubber to metal friction.

(14) Circlip, Retaining Ring: Replace any circlips and retaining rings that were removed with new ones. When installing, compress or expand them only enough to install them and no more.

(15) Cotter Pin: Replace any cotter pins that were removed with new ones, as removal deforms and breaks them.

(16) Lubrication: During assembly, oil or grease (whichever is more suitable) should be applied to any rubbing surface which has lost its lubricative film. Old grease and dirty oil should be cleaned off.

(17) Replacement Parts: When there is a replacement instruction, replace these parts with new ones every time they are removed.

(1): Service more frequently under dusty conditions.

★: These items must be performed with the proper tools. See your authorized Kawasaki Engine Dealer for service, unless you have the proper equipment and mechanical proficiency.

The following tables list the tightening torque for major fasteners. Letters in the “Remarks” column mean:

S: Tighten the fasteners following the specified sequence.

O: Apply an oil to the threads, seated surface, or washer.

SS: Apply silicone sealant.

Fuel System:

Cooling System:

Engine Top End:

Lubrication System:

Camshaft/Crankshaft:

Electrical System:

1. Disconnect all possible external loads from the engine.

2. Start the engine and warm it up thoroughly.

3. Move the throttle lever on the dash to the idle position.

4. Hold the throttle lever on the carburetor in the closed position (turn the governor arm clockwise all the way).

5. Adjust the low idle speed screw until the engine idles at the specified speed of 1450 rpm.

6. Release the throttle lever.

7. Adjust the low idle speed set screw on the control plate to obtain the specified governed low idle speed of 1550 rpm.

NOTE: High idle speed adjustment should be made after the idle speed adjustment is performed.

CAUTION: Do not adjust high idle speed with the air cleaner removed.

1. Start and warm up the engine thoroughly.

2. Move the throttle lever at a dash to the high idle position and match the lever hole position with the panel hole by inserting a 6 mm dia. pin or bolt.

3. Loosen two M6 control panel mounting bolts enough to move the control panel assembly.

4. Carefully move the control panel assembly right side up or down to obtain the specified high idle speed of 3600 rpm.

5. Tighten the M6 Mounting bolts to the specified torque.

Torque – Control Panel Mounting Bolts: 5.9 N·m (0.60 kg·m, 52 in·lb)

6. Remove the 6 mm dia. pin or bolt.

7. Check the idle speed, and readjust the idle speed if necessary.

At high altitude, the standard carburetor air-fuel mixture will be excessively rich. Performance can be improved by installing a smaller diameter main jet. Main jet numbers are stamped on the ends of the main jets.

High Altitude Main Jet for KAWASAKI FH531V

Main Jet Replacement Procedure:

1. Place the engine (equipment) on a level surface.

2. Close the fuel shut off valve in the equipment.

3. Drain the fuel in the carburetor completely by unscrewing the drain screw at the bottom of the float chamber.

4. Remove the carburetor (see Carburetor Removal).

5. Unscrew the float chamber bolt and take off the float chamber.

6. Unscrew the solenoid valve, and take off the valve and gasket (Electric Starter Model).

7. Using a proper blade screwdriver, carefully replace the main jet with a new one for the altitude expected.

8. Tighten the main jet to the specification (see Carburetor Disassembly Assembly Notes).

9. Install the float chamber, gasket, and solenoid valve.

WARNING: Clean the carburetor in a well-ventilated area, and take care that there are no sparks or flame anywhere near the working area; this includes any appliance with a pilot light. Because of the danger of highly flammable liquids, do not use gasoline or low flash-point solvents to clean the carburetors.

CAUTION:

• Do not use compressed air on an assembled carburetor, or the floats may be crushed by the pressure.

• Remove as many rubber or plastic parts from the carburetor as possible before cleaning the carburetor with a cleaning solution. This will prevent damage or deterioration of the parts.

• The carburetor body has plastic parts that cannot be removed. Do not use a strong carburetor cleaning solution which could attack these parts; instead, use a mild high flash-point cleaning solution safe for plastic parts.

• Do not use wire or any other hard instrument to clean carburetor parts, especially jets, as they may be damaged.

Procedure:

1. Disassemble the carburetor.

2. Immerse all the carburetor metal parts in a carburetor cleaning solution and clean them.

3. Rinse the parts in water and dry them with compressed air.

4. Do not use rags or paper to dry parts. Lint may plug the holes or passages.

5. Blow air through the holes and fuel passages with the compressed air. All holes must be open.

6. Assemble the carburetor.

1. Before measuring, ensure the battery is fully charged and the engine is thoroughly warmed up.

2. Stop the engine. Disconnect the spark plug caps of each cylinder and remove the spark plugs.

3. Attach the compression gauge assembly firmly into one plug hole. Use special tools Compression Gauge: 57001–221 and Compression Gauge Adapter: 57001–1159.

4. Ground the spark plugs to the engine. WARNING: To avoid fire, do not ground the spark plugs in proximity to the plug holes. Keep the plugs as far away as possible from the plug holes.

5. With the throttle fully open, turn the engine over.

• For recoil models: Turn the engine over sharply with the recoil starter several times until the compression gauge stops rising.

• For electric starter models: Use the starter motor to turn the engine over until the compression gauge stops rising.

6. The highest reading obtainable is the compression. The minimum cylinder compression should be 390 kPa (57 psi).

7. Repeat the measurement for the other cylinder.

If compression is too high, check for:

• Carbon build-up on the piston crown and cylinder head.

• Incorrect cylinder head gasket thickness.

• Worn valve guides or piston oil rings.

If cylinder compression is lower than the minimum, check for:

• Gas leakage around the cylinder head (replace gasket, check for warp).

• Condition of the valve seating.

• Valve clearance.

• Piston/cylinder wear or seizure.

• Piston ring or piston ring groove issues.

Change the oil after the first 8 hours of operation, and then every 100 hours thereafter.

1. Start and warm up the engine so the oil will drain easily. Then stop the engine.

2. Place the engine on a level surface.

3. Place a suitable container under the engine.

4. Remove the drain plug and drain the oil. WARNING: Be careful of hot oil when drained. It may be hot enough to burn you severely.

5. Check the O-ring at the drain plug for damage. Replace the O-ring with a new one if it is damaged.

6. Install the drain plug with the O-ring and tighten it.

• Torque – Oil Drain Plug (Plastic): 6.9 N·m (0.7 kg·m, 61 in·lb)

• Torque – Oil Drain Plug (Metal): 20 N·m (2.0 kg·m, 14.5 ft·lb)

7. Remove the oil filler cap and pour in the specified type and amount of oil.

• Engine Oil Grade: SF, SG, SH or SJ class

• Viscosity: SAE40, SAE30, SAE10W-30 / SAE10W-40, or SAE5W-20

• Capacity (When filter is not removed): 1.5 L (1.6 US qt)

• Capacity (When filter is removed): 1.7 L (1.8 US qt)

8. Check the oil level with the dipstick.

Oil Filter Removal

1. Place a suitable container beneath the oil drip tray to receive oil.

2. Using a strap wrench or oil filter wrench (Special Tool: 57001–1249), remove the oil filter by turning it counterclockwise.

Oil Filter Installation

1. Apply a light film of engine oil to the seal of the new filter.

2. Install the new filter.

3. Turn the filter until the seal contacts the mounting surface of the engine.

4. Then turn the filter BY HAND an additional 3/4 turn.

5. Run the engine at slow idle speed for 2 minutes and check for leaks around the engine.

6. Stop the engine and check the oil level.

Follow this troubleshooting guide if your engine is hard to start:

1. Check for spark. Remove the spark plug and turn the engine over while having the plug earthed against the engine block. (WARNING: Keep the plug as far away as possible from the plug hole. To avoid an electric shock, do not hold the plug itself. Make sure to hold the plug cap.)

• If there is no spark: Is a spark produced when the ignition coil is replaced? If yes, the faulty ignition coil was the issue. If no, the problem could be an incorrect air gap or a faulty flywheel. Replace as needed.

• If there is a spark: Is a spark produced when the spark plug is replaced? If yes, the old spark plug was faulty. If no, continue to the next step.

2. Check compression. Is compression sufficient?

• If yes, check fuel. Make starting attempts a number of times and then remove the spark plug to observe the electrodes. Are they wet?

• If they are wet: This indicates excessive use of choke, a plugged air cleaner, or too high a fuel level in the float bowl. Correct the issue (remove plug and turn engine over without loading, clean air cleaner, adjust float level).

• If they are dry: This indicates no fuel in the tank, entry of dust or air into the fuel pipe, a plugged fuel pipe, a plugged air hole in the tank cap, or a plugged fuel line. Add fuel or clean the respective components.

• If no, check the carburetor. Check for a plugged fuel line, plugged air passage, float level, and carb setting.

3. Check for mechanical issues if starting is still difficult:

• Worn piston / piston rings: Replace

• Stuck piston rings: Clean or replace

• Worn cylinder bore: Bore or replace

• Insufficient cylinder head tightening: Retighten

• Poor contact of valve seat: Lap

• Incorrect valve clearance: Adjust

• Warped valve stem: Replace

• Stuck valve: Clean or replace

• Burned head gasket: Replace

If your engine is experiencing a loss of power, check the following potential causes:

1. Is the engine overheated?

• Yes: Check for low oil in the crankcase, too much oil, excessive load, improperly adjusted carburetor, carbon deposit in the combustion chamber, a clogged cooling system, or a damaged cooling fan. Adjust levels, loads, clean components, or replace damaged parts as necessary.

2. Is the ignition spark normal?

• No: Check for a wrong spark plug, faulty ignition coil, or incorrect air gap. Replace or adjust as needed.

3. Is the lubrication condition normal?

• No: Check for too much or too little oil, excessively contaminated oil, a clogged oil filter, a faulty relief valve, a faulty oil pump, or a clogged oil system. Correct oil level, change oil, or replace faulty components.

4. Is there unusual smoke from the muffler?

• Yes: Check for a plugged air cleaner, carbon deposit in the exhaust hole/muffler, an improperly adjusted carburetor, too much oil, worn piston/rings, or a worn cylinder bore. Clean, adjust, or replace parts as needed.

5. Is compression sufficient?

• No: Refer to the “Engine hard to start” troubleshooting guide for compression issues.

If the engine runs erratically, check the following:

• Spark plug fouled, pitted, or gapped incorrectly: Replace or adjust.

• Problem in the fuel system (lack of fuel):

• Entry of dust or water into the fuel pipe or fuel filter: Clean.

• Air or water lock in the fuel line: Clean.

• Plugged air vent of fuel tank: Clean.

• Plugged air/fuel passes in carb: Clean.

• Too little opening of carb pilot screw: Correct.

• Carb not properly adjusted: Adjust.

• Carb flange leaking at gasket: Tighten or replace.

• Worn carb body and throttle shaft: Replace.

1. Listen for a click sound from the solenoid switch when you try to start the engine.

2. If there is NO click sound:

• Check for a faulty battery: Charge or replace.

• Check for faulty leads or connection: Repair or replace.

• Check for a melted fuse: Replace.

• Check for a faulty engine switch: Repair or replace.

• Check for a faulty solenoid (switch): Replace.

3. If there IS a click sound:

• Check for a weak battery: Charge or replace.

• Check for faulty leads or connection (Solenoid to motor): Repair or replace.

• Check for a faulty solenoid switch (Main terminal in solenoid): Replace.

• Check for a faulty starter motor: Repair or replace.