VOLKSWAGEN PHAETON 2003 (02) PDF Document

To ensure long use, the battery in your VOLKSWAGEN PHAETON 2003 must be checked, serviced, and maintained according to specifications. Apart from supplying energy for starting the engine, the battery has other tasks: it acts as a buffer and supplies electrical energy to the complete electrical onboard supply of the vehicle.

The following are types of maintenance-free batteries for your VOLKSWAGEN PHAETON 2003. For these batteries, no stickers should be removed, and they should not be replenished with distilled water. Only a visual check is performed.

Battery with magic eye: This is a maintenance-free battery with liquid electrolyte (wet battery). It is equipped with a magic eye that provides information about the electrolyte level and charge state via a colored display.

Absorbent glass mat (AGM) battery: This is a maintenance-free battery with a contained electrolyte and no magic eye. It is a lead-acid battery where the electrolyte is contained within a microscopic glass mat. The battery is sealed and fitted with valves. AGM batteries are identified by the abbreviation “AGM” on the battery. Always replace an AGM battery with another AGM battery.

Observe the following warnings when handling the battery in your VOLKSWAGEN PHAETON 2003:

• Untrained personnel may only work on batteries when supervised by a qualified vehicle mechanic or electrician.

• Battery acid is highly corrosive. Take measures to neutralize acid burns, such as having a soap solution available.

• Leaking electrolyte can cause skin burns and corrosion on the vehicle, potentially damaging safety-relevant components.

• Gas formed during charging is explosive. An improperly handled battery may explode.

• Batteries with a colorless or light yellow magic eye must be renewed. They must not be checked, charged, or used for a slave/jump start due to the danger of explosion.

• It is prohibited to cause sparks, use naked lights, or smoke near batteries. Avoid sparks from electrostatic charging by touching the vehicle body before touching the battery.

• Only work on batteries in well-ventilated and suitable rooms.

The safety markings on the battery indicate the following precautions:

1. Fires, sparks, naked flames, and smoking are prohibited. Avoid sparks and short circuits. Never lay a tool on a battery.

2. Wear eye protection before working on the battery.

3. Keep children away from acid and batteries.

4. Disposal: Old batteries are hazardous waste and must be disposed of at a suitable collection center according to legislation.

5. Never dispose of old batteries in household waste.

6. Danger of explosion. A highly explosive gas is produced when batteries are charged.

7. Always follow instructions on the battery, in the “Electrical System, General Information” manual, and in the owner’s manual.

8. Battery acid is very caustic. Wear eye protection and gloves. Do not tilt the battery, as acid can leak from the gas vents.

To prevent damage to the battery clamps and terminals on your VOLKSWAGEN PHAETON 2003, observe the following:

• The battery clamps should only be fitted by hand and without using force.

• Battery terminals should not be coated with grease.

• The battery clamps should be fitted so that the battery terminal is either flush with the clamp or protruding from it.

• Once the battery clamps have been tightened to the specified torque, the threaded connections should not be tightened any further.

A visual inspection is essential to check the external condition, terminals, and proper attachment of the battery before performing extensive tests. This establishes:

• If the battery housing is damaged: Electrolyte can leak out, causing serious damage to the vehicle. Treat components affected by leaked battery acid immediately with an acid neutralizer or a soap solution.

• Whether the battery terminals are damaged: Damaged terminals can prevent proper contact with the battery clamps. When connecting clamps, tighten them to the specified torque. If not correctly seated, the wiring may burn, causing malfunctions in the electrical system.

Also, ensure the battery is secured correctly. Vibrations can shorten battery life, damage cell plates, and potentially damage the battery housing. Check that the battery is securely seated and, if necessary, tighten the securing bolt to the specified torque.

The magic eye provides information on the electrolyte level and charge state. Before checking, tap the magic eye lightly with a screwdriver handle to dissipate air bubbles that can distort the display.

For “3-colour” magic eye displays:

• »Green«: Battery is charged sufficiently.

• »Black«: Battery is partly or completely discharged (charge state < 65%).

• »Colourless or light yellow«: Battery must be renewed. Do not check, charge, or jump-start a vehicle with this display, as there is a danger of explosion.

For “2-colour” magic eye displays (on newer batteries):

• »Black«: Electrolyte level is OK.

• »Colourless or light yellow«: Electrolyte level is too low. The battery must be renewed. Do not check, charge, or jump-start a vehicle with this display.

Note that the magic eye is located in only one cell, so an exact determination of the battery’s condition is only possible through a battery load test.

Follow these steps to perform a battery load test using the VAS 5097 A:

1. Ensure the battery temperature is at least 10 °C.

2. Switch off the ignition and all electrical consumers.

3. Check the magic eye on batteries equipped with one.

4. Check the low-temperature test current in amperes (A) according to DIN from the indications on the battery. If values are in IEC or EN/SAE, use the conversion table.

5. Select the low-temperature test current and measuring range (e.g., 380 – 499 A) on the tester.

6. Connect the red terminal “+” of the tester to the positive battery terminal and the black terminal “-” to the negative terminal. Ensure a good contact.

7. Select the connection point (directly to battery or external test points) with the selection switch.

8. Press the start test button. The green LED will light up, and the test will run automatically.

9. After about 20 seconds, the test result is printed out. If the unit does not start, recharge the battery and test again.

10. Switch off the unit and remove the test terminals.

Note: Perform the test only once, as repeating it can falsify the result. The tester requires approximately 30 minutes to cool down before the next test.

Based on the printout from the VAS 5097 A battery tester, take the following actions:

The VAS 6161 tester does not load the battery but works on the principle of dynamic conductance acquisition. Follow these steps:

1. Switch off the ignition and all electrical consumers.

2. Check the magic eye on batteries equipped with one.

3. Switch on the VAS 6161 unit.

4. Connect the red terminal “+” to the positive battery terminal and the black terminal “-” to the negative terminal. Ensure a good contact.

5. Select one of the following functions on the tester:

• Maintenance test: Used for new cars before registration or in a stock maintenance program.

• Service test: For regular service checks.

• Guarantee test: For warranty claims.

6. Follow the on-screen prompts for the selected test, which may include scanning the vehicle identification number, selecting the test point (battery terminal or jump-start point), selecting battery type, and measuring temperature.

7. Start the test. The result is completed in about 10 seconds and printed out.

The following tables explain the measures to be taken based on the VAS 6161 test results.

Evaluating battery test results for guarantee and service tests:

Evaluating battery test results for maintenance test:

The current draw test quickly ascertains the state of discharged batteries while charging to determine if the battery must be replaced or can be fully recharged. For the VAS 6161 tester, this test must be performed when the result “Perform current draw test” appears.

Test Requirements:

• Battery temperature must be at least +10 °C.

• The charger must be capable of at least 30 A.

• Measure the current draw with a current pick-up clamp.

Procedure:

1. Connect the battery to the battery charger and start the charging sequence.

2. Measure the charging current of the battery after 5 minutes.

Test Result:

• If the current draw (A) is higher than 10% of the nominal capacity (e.g., > 6.1 A for a 61 Ah battery), fully charge the battery and test again.

• If the charge current is below 10% of the nominal capacity after 5 minutes, renew the battery.

The no-load voltage test is used to assess the battery’s condition on stock and stored vehicles as part of prescribed maintenance. The battery must not have been charged or discharged within the last 2 days for an accurate reading.

Procedure:

Check the battery no-load voltage with a hand multimeter (e.g., V.A.G 1526 B).

Assessment:

A no-load voltage of 11.60 V corresponds to a 0% charge, indicating the battery is heavily discharged and has no capacity.

A battery is considered “totally discharged” when the no-load voltage is less than 11.6 V.

Important Notes:

• Totally discharged batteries freeze prematurely. Do not use frozen batteries.

• Batteries that have been totally discharged for a long period of time sulphate (plate surfaces harden), which reduces their ability to be recharged and lowers battery output.

• If a battery is recharged shortly after it has totally lost its charge, the sulphation will mostly dissipate.

Charger units like the VAS 5095 A can automatically recognize totally discharged batteries and initiate a gentle charging procedure with a low current. The battery voltage must be at least 0.6 V for the charger to recognize it.

The functions of the cruise control system (CCS) are controlled by the engine control unit. To activate or deactivate the system using a diagnostic tester, follow these steps:

1. Connect the vehicle diagnostic tester.

2. Select “Guided fault finding” mode in the vehicle diagnostic tester.

3. Using the “GoTo” button, select “Functions/component” and navigate through the following menu options in succession:

• Drive

• Engine code

• 01 – On Board Diagnostic capable systems

• Engine management/diesel direct injection and glow plug system

• Functions

• Activating and deactivating cruise control system (CCS)

Different hose couplings are used for the washer system. Here is how to handle them:

Type 1 (Simple Push-Fit):

• To loosen: Pull the two coupling sections apart (no securing device).

• To secure: Push the two coupling sections together until you hear and feel them engage.

Type 2 (Rotating Lock Ring):

• To loosen: Rotate the lock ring through 90° and pull off the hose connection.

• To secure: Push on the hose connection and rotate the lock ring back until it engages.

Type 3 (Pull-Up Lock Ring/Clip):

• To loosen: Pull up the lock ring/clip by approx. 1 mm and pull off the hose connection.

• To secure: Attach the hose connection and press in the clip until it engages.

Headlight Washer System Type (Push Lock Ring):

• To loosen: Push the lock ring and pull off the hose connection.

• To secure: Push and hold the lock ring while pushing on the hose connection. Check that the clip has engaged correctly.

Repairing a smooth pipe:

1. Cut the damaged section out of the smooth pipe at a right angle.

2. Select an appropriate EPDM hose and cable ties.

3. Cut the EPDM hose so that the ends of the smooth pipe can each be pushed about 10 mm into it.

4. Secure the repair joints with cable ties.

Repairing a corrugated pipe:

1. Cut the damaged section out of the corrugated pipe at a right angle.

2. Select suitable end pieces and the correct sized heat-shrink piping.

3. Heat the ends of the corrugated pipe.

4. Push the connector pieces into the heated ends of the pipe.

5. Cut a piece of heat-shrink hose so that it covers the ends of the corrugated pipe by about 20 mm on each side.

6. Push the heat-shrink hose over the pipe, join the connectors, and secure the repair joints with the heat-shrink hose using a hot air blower.

Gas discharge bulb systems operate with lethally high voltage. Follow these safety precautions strictly:

• Disconnect Power: It is absolutely necessary to disconnect the battery earth strap before working on any parts of the gas discharge headlights (marked with yellow high voltage symbols).

• Dissipate Residual Voltage: After disconnecting the battery, switch the dipped beam on and off again to eliminate any possible residual voltage.

• System Integrity: The gas discharge lamp control unit must never be operated without a gas discharge lamp installed.

• Operate in Housing Only: Due to the high ignition voltage (above 28,000 V) and high temperatures, the gas discharge bulb must only be operated inside the headlight housing.

• Pressure Hazard: Gas discharge bulbs are under pressure and can explode if changed improperly, causing injury. Always wear protective goggles and gloves when removing and installing them.

• UV Radiation: Avoid looking directly into the beam, as the UV rays are about 2.5 times greater than normal halogen bulbs.

The removal and installation procedure is the same for all sockets. Only illuminated sockets (like a cigarette lighter) can be removed with the puller T 40148 without damage. Sockets without illumination usually cannot be removed without being damaged.

Removing:

1. Remove the cigarette lighter or dummy plug from the socket if present.

2. Push the puller (T 40148) into the socket so that its locking lugs engage in the recesses inside the socket.

3. Pull the grip on the puller to release the locking lugs of the retaining sleeve.

4. Pull the socket out of the retaining sleeve using the puller. Be careful not to stretch the wiring.

5. Pull off the socket connector.

6. To remove the puller from the socket, press the spindle on the puller and turn it briefly to the left to release the locking lugs.

Installing:

Install in the reverse order of removal.

When performing repairs on the vehicle electrical system, observe the following general guidelines:

• Always disconnect the battery earth strap before working on the electrical system.

• Before starting, identify and rectify the cause of the damage (e.g., sharp edges, corrosion, defective components).

• Soldering is not permitted for repairs to vehicle wiring.

• Use the specified wiring harness repair set for all repairs. Mark previous repairs with yellow adhesive tape.

• Crimp connectors may never be repaired. After crimping, they must be shrink-fitted with a hot air blower to prevent moisture ingress.

• Observe supplementary information for repairs to airbag systems, fibre optic cables, and CAN bus lines.

• Perform a function test after every repair. It may be necessary to interrogate and erase the fault memory.

• Do not loosen earth wires from the body if possible, to avoid corrosion.

• Screened wires must not be repaired; they must be replaced completely.

• Use only heat-resistant wiring for repairs in areas like the engine compartment.

Faulty repairs to the airbag and seat belt tensioning system can cause malfunctions in the passenger protection system. In addition to the general repair notes, follow these specific instructions:

• Only use contacts, connectors, and wiring designed specifically for this purpose.

• A maximum of two positions may be repaired in the wiring. More repairs increase resistance and can trigger faults.

• Crimp connectors must always be shrink-fitted to prevent corrosion.

• Do not incorporate the repaired wiring back into the vehicle’s main wiring harness. Mark the area of repair clearly with yellow insulating tape.

• Repairs should be no more than 30 cm from the next contact housing.

• The wires to the triggering units are entwined as standard with a twine spacing of 20 mm ± 5 mm. This spacing must be adhered to on repair lengths.

• During repairs, both wires to the triggering units must have the same length.

• There must not be any section of wiring longer than 100 mm that is not twisted, for example, near the crimp connectors.

The CAN bus uses an unshielded two-wire line with a specific cross-section (0.35 mm² or 0.5 mm²). For repairs, observe the following:

• Use the correct color codes for the wires:

• Powertrain CAN, high wire: Orange/black

• Convenience CAN, high wire: Orange/green

• Infotainment CAN, high: Orange/violet

• CAN low wire (all): Orange/brown

• When repairs are performed, both bus wires must have the same length.

• When twisting the wires together, the length of each complete twist must be 20 mm.

• There must not be any section of wiring longer than 50 mm that is not twisted, for example, in the vicinity of crimp connectors.

• Mark the area of repair with yellow insulation tape to make it easy to identify.

To release and dismantle contact housings correctly:

1. Observe Secondary Locking: Many contact housings have a secondary locking mechanism (often a different color from the housing). This must be opened or removed before individual contacts can be released. This can be done by removing a “toothed element,” opening a “flap,” or detaching a “slide,” depending on the connector type.

2. Use Correct Release Tool: Always use the correct release tool for the specific contact. Forcing contacts out can damage the housing.

3. Disengage Primary Lock: The primary lock fixes an individual contact in the housing. Insert the appropriate release tool into the release port of the housing.

4. Push and Pull: Grab the wire and push the contact lightly into the housing. This helps lift the locking tabs off the housing edge. At the same time, push the release tool further into the housing and pull the released contact out from the back.

5. Remove Tool: Once the contact is out, the release tool can be removed from the housing.

The VAS 6410 set is for cleaning threaded connections in the high-current circuit.

Repairing Ring Terminals:

1. Disconnect the battery.

2. Loosen the cap nut and remove the ring terminal.

3. Check the terminal for corrosion and dirt.

4. Select a suitable adapter and sanding pad (grey for light dirt, red for heavy dirt).

5. Insert the adapter into the ring terminal and grind off corrosion with circular movements. Be careful not to abrade the tin coating excessively, as this can cause faulty repairs.

6. If necessary, remove any punching burr with the deburrer.

7. Tighten the ring terminal to the specified torque.

8. Apply a suitable anti-corrosion treatment.

9. Reconnect the battery.

Repairing Threaded Connections:

The procedure is similar. Use the appropriate adapter and sanding pad to clean the threaded post with circular movements before reattaching the ring terminal.

Do not repair Lambda probe wires, as this can result in malfunctions. Renew the entire probe assembly as follows:

For both 4-pin (LSF) and 6-pin (LSU) probes:

1. Remove the defective Lambda probe.

2. Place the new uniform probe and the old defective probe next to each other, aligning the sensor housings.

3. Tie back any excess length in the new uniform probe’s cable (approx. 50 – 250 mm) to match the length of the old probe’s cable. Secure the excess with cable ties.

4. Check that the connector housing of the new probe is compatible with the onboard supply side connector. On older vehicles, it may be necessary to replace the onboard supply system connector with the one supplied with the new probe.

5. Install the new Lambda probe in the vehicle.