VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT VARIANT 1997 (01) PDF Document

When handling batteries on your VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT VARIANT 1997, be aware of the following dangers:

Corrosive Acid: Acid is highly corrosive and can cause severe burns. Have a neutralizing solution, like soap solution, ready.

Explosive Gas: The gas formed during charging is explosive. An improperly handled battery can explode in extreme cases.

Leaking Electrolyte: If electrolyte leaks, it can cause skin burns and corrosion on the vehicle, potentially damaging safety-relevant components.

Unserviceable Batteries: Batteries with a colourless or light yellow magic eye must be renewed. Do not check, charge, or jump start them due to a high risk of explosion.

Spark Prohibition: It is prohibited to cause sparks from grinding, welding, or using naked lights near batteries. Smoking is also prohibited. Always touch the vehicle body to discharge static electricity before touching the battery.

Ventilation: Only work on batteries in well-ventilated and suitable rooms.

The safety markings on the battery of your VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT VARIANT 1997 indicate the following precautions:

1. Fires, sparks, naked flames, and smoking are prohibited. Avoid sparks from electrostatic discharge when working with cables and electrical units. Do not lay tools on the battery to avoid short circuits.

2. Wear eye protection before starting any work on the battery.

3. Keep children away from acid and batteries.

4. Disposal: Old batteries are hazardous waste and must be disposed of at a suitable collection centre according to legislation.

5. Never dispose of old batteries in household waste.

6. Danger of explosion. A highly explosive gas is produced when batteries are charged.

7. Always follow instructions on the battery and in the vehicle’s manuals.

8. Battery acid is very caustic. Wear eye protection and gloves. Do not tilt the battery, as acid can leak from the gas vents.

To prevent damage to the battery clamps and terminals on your VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT VARIANT 1997, follow these guidelines:

• The battery clamps should only be fitted by hand, without using force.

• Battery terminals should not be coated with grease.

• The battery clamps should be fitted so that the battery terminal is either flush with the clamp or protruding slightly from it.

• Once the battery clamps have been tightened to the specified torque, do not tighten the threaded connections any further.

Performing a visual check establishes the external condition of the battery on your VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT VARIANT 1997. Follow these steps:

1. Check for secure mounting: Ensure the battery is securely seated. If necessary, tighten the securing bolt to the specified torque. Vibrations can shorten the battery’s life and may damage the housing or cell plates.

2. Inspect the battery housing for damage: If the housing is damaged, electrolyte can leak out, causing serious damage to the vehicle. Treat any components affected by leaked battery acid immediately with an acid neutraliser or soap solution.

3. Check the battery terminals: Look for any damage on the battery terminals (wire connections). Damaged terminals can prevent proper contact. When connecting the clamps, tighten them to the specified torque to ensure the vehicle functions correctly and to prevent wiring from burning.

Before checking, lightly tap the magic eye with a screwdriver handle to dissipate any air bubbles that could distort the color. The color indicates the battery’s condition. Note that battery designs can have different color schemes.

For “3-colour” magic eye systems:

• Green: The battery is sufficiently charged.

• Black: The battery is partly discharged (charge state < 65%) or completely discharged.

• Colourless or light yellow: The battery must be renewed. Do not check, charge, or jump start the vehicle, as there is a danger of explosion.

For “2-colour” magic eye systems (on newer batteries):

• Black: Electrolyte level is OK. A battery load test is required to determine the charge state.

• Colourless or light yellow: Electrolyte level is too low. The battery must be renewed. Do not check, charge, or jump start the vehicle due to the danger of explosion.

The magic eye only reflects the condition of one cell, so for an exact determination of the battery’s health, a full battery load test is necessary.

The test printout from the VAS 5097 A battery tester provides a result that indicates the necessary next steps. Refer to the table below:

The results from the VAS 6161 tester indicate the battery’s condition and what actions to take. The following tables explain the results for both guarantee/service tests and maintenance tests.

Evaluating battery test results for guarantee and service tests:

Evaluating battery test results for maintenance test:

A current draw test helps to quickly determine the state of a discharged battery and whether it needs to be replaced or can be fully recharged. This test is required when the VAS 5097A tester shows results like “Starting output sufficient,” “poor,” or “very poor,” or when the VAS 6161 tester indicates “Perform current draw test.”

Test Requirements:

• Battery temperature must be at least +10 °C.

• Use a charger capable of at least 30 A output (e.g., VAS 5095A, VAS 5900, VAS 5903).

• Measure the current with a current pick-up clamp.

Procedure:

1. Connect the battery to the battery charger and start the charging sequence.

2. Measure the charging current of the battery after 5 minutes.

Test Result:

• If the current draw (in Amperes) is higher than 10% of the nominal capacity (e.g., > 6.1 A for a 61 Ah battery): The battery can likely be recharged. Fully charge the battery and perform another battery test after it has rested for two hours.

• If the charge current is below 10% of the nominal capacity after 5 minutes (e.g., < 5A for a 50 Ah battery): Renew the battery.

This test is used to assess the battery’s condition on stock and stored vehicles. The battery must not have been charged or discharged within the last 2 days for an accurate reading.

Procedure:

1. Use a hand multimeter (e.g., V.A.G 1526 B).

2. Check the battery’s no-load voltage with the multimeter.

Interpreting the Results:

A no-load voltage of 11.60 V corresponds to a 0% charge, meaning the battery is heavily discharged and has no capacity.

The battery must have a temperature of at least 10 °C before charging.

Procedure:

1. Switch off the ignition and all electrical consumers.

2. Check the setting for the battery type on the switch on the base of the charger. It must be set to 2.4 V/C (volts/battery cell) for all batteries.

3. Connect the red terminal clamp (+) of the charger to the positive terminal on the battery.

4. Connect the black terminal clamp (-) of the charger to the negative terminal on the battery. For vehicles with a start/stop function and a battery monitor control unit (J367), the black clamp must be connected to body earth, not the battery’s negative terminal, to avoid system malfunctions.

5. Switch on the battery charger using the ON/OFF switch.

Monitoring the Charge:

• The charging current indicators (yellow LEDs) will light up. When both are lit, the battery is charging. When only the LED for >90% is lit, the battery is almost full.

• When the green LED lights up, the charger has switched to “maintaining charge,” and the battery is fully charged.

Completing the Charge:

1. Switch off the charging unit.

2. Remove the charger unit terminals from the battery terminals.

This charger can also be used to charge totally discharged batteries (with at least 0.6 V) and to provide power in “support mode” when the battery is removed.

The functions of the cruise control system (CCS) on your VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT VARIANT 1997 are controlled by the engine control unit. Faults are also output via this unit. To activate or deactivate the system, a vehicle diagnostic tester is required.

Procedure for Activating and Deactivating CCS:

1. Connect a vehicle diagnostic tester to your vehicle.

2. Select “Guided fault finding” mode on the tester.

3. Using the “GoTo” button, select “Functions/component” and navigate through the following menu options in sequence:

• Drive

• Engine code

• 01 – On Board Diagnostic capable systems

• Engine management/diesel direct injection and glow plug system

• Functions

• Activating and deactivating cruise control system (CCS)

Follow the on-screen instructions provided by the diagnostic tester to complete the process.

Your VOLKSWAGEN PASSAT VARIANT 1997 may use several types of hose couplings. Here is how to handle them:

Type 1 (Simple Push-Fit):

• To loosen: Simply pull the two coupling sections apart.

• To secure: Push the two sections together until you hear and feel them engage.

Type 2 (Rotating Lock Ring):

• To loosen: Rotate the lock ring -1- by 90° and pull off the hose connection.

• To secure: Push on the hose connection and rotate the lock ring back 90° until it engages.

Type 3 (Pull-Up Lock Ring):

• To loosen: Pull up the lock ring -1- by approximately 1 mm and then pull off the hose connection.

• To secure: Attach the hose connection and press in the clip -1- until it engages.

Type 4 (Headlight Washer System – Push Lock Ring):

• To loosen: Push the lock ring -1- and pull off the hose connection.

• To secure: Push and hold the lock ring while pushing on the hose connection. Check that it is secure by trying to pull it off without pressing the ring.

The repair method depends on whether the hose is smooth or corrugated.

Repairing Smooth Pipe:

1. Cut the damaged section out of the smooth pipe at a right angle.

2. Select the appropriate EPDM hose and cable ties from the electronic parts catalogue (ETKA).

3. Cut the EPDM hose so that each end of the smooth pipe can be pushed about 10 mm into it.

4. Secure the repair joints with cable ties.

Repairing Corrugated Pipe:

1. Cut the damaged section out of the corrugated pipe at a right angle.

2. Select suitable end pieces and the correct sized heat-shrink piping from the parts catalogue.

3. Cut a length of heat-shrink hose so that it will cover the ends of the corrugated pipe by about 20 mm on each side of the repair.

4. Push the heat-shrink hose over the corrugated pipe.

5. Heat one end of the corrugated pipe and push a connector into it.

6. Heat the other end of the pipe and push the other connector into it.

7. Join the connectors and slide the heat-shrink hose over the joint.

8. Secure the repair by applying heat to the heat-shrink hose.

Note: Repair points must not be subjected to pulling or bending forces.

Gas discharge bulbs operate under high voltage and pressure, requiring specific safety measures.

High Voltage Danger:

• Control units and components conduct lethally high voltage (over 28,000 V on ignition).

• Always disconnect the battery earth strap before working on these headlights.

• After disconnecting the battery, switch the dipped beam on and off again to eliminate any residual voltage.

• Ensure the lights cannot be switched on while you are working.

• Never operate the control unit without a bulb fitted.

Pressure and Temperature:

• The bulbs are under pressure and can explode if changed improperly, causing injury. Always wear protective goggles and gloves.

• The glass of the bulbs can become very hot, creating a burn hazard.

• The bulbs must only be operated inside the headlight housing for protection against heat, UV radiation, and explosion.

Repair and Handling Notes:

• Do not touch the bulb glass with bare fingers; use clean cloth gloves. Oils from fingerprints can damage the reflector.

• Always replace a bulb with one of the exact same type.

• Gas discharge bulbs must be disposed of as hazardous waste, as they contain mercury and thallium.

To remove an illuminated cigarette lighter socket, you will need the special puller tool T 40148. Sockets without illumination cannot typically be removed with this tool without being damaged.

Removing Procedure:

1. If present, remove the cigarette lighter or dummy lighter from the socket.

2. Insert the puller T 40148 into the socket, pushing it until its locking lugs engage in the recesses inside the socket.

3. Pull the grip on the tool to release the locking lugs of the retaining sleeve.

4. Pull the socket out of the retaining sleeve using the puller. Be careful not to stretch the wiring.

5. Disconnect the socket connector.

6. To release the puller from the socket, press the spindle on the puller and turn the puller briefly to the left.

Caution: When the puller is mounted, the socket’s retaining springs are pressed apart, reducing the force that holds the cigarette lighter in. After removing the socket, carefully press these springs back together to ensure the lighter does not get ejected after its heating phase.

First, note that some versions may use a non-replaceable LED. If it uses a bulb, it may or may not be replaceable separately from the bulb carrier.

Procedure:

1. Remove the cigarette lighter socket first.

2. Press the retaining lugs on the side of the retaining sleeve and remove the sleeve together with the bulb carrier.

3. Unclip the bulb carrier from the retaining sleeve.

4. Separate the bulb carrier into its parts by unclipping it.

5. Open the carrier to access the light bulb.

6. Remove the light bulb in the direction of the arrow shown in the manual’s diagram.

Installing:

Installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal.

When performing repairs on the vehicle electrical system, adhere to the following guidelines:

• Disconnect Battery: Always disconnect the battery earth strap before working on the electrical system.

• Identify Cause: Before repairing, identify and rectify the cause of the damage (e.g., sharp edges, corrosion).

• No Soldering: Soldering is not permitted for repairs to vehicle wiring.

• Use Repair Set: Wiring harness and connector repairs should be carried out using the specified wiring harness repair set (e.g., VAS 1978 B).

• Mark Repairs: Repaired sections should not be integrated back into the main harness. Mark the area of repair with yellow adhesive tape.

• Crimp Connectors: Crimp connectors must not be repaired. After crimping, they must be shrink-fitted using a hot air blower to prevent moisture ingress.

• Special Systems: Follow supplementary information for repairs to airbag systems, CAN bus lines, and fibre optic cables.

• Function Test: Carry out a function test after every repair. It may be necessary to interrogate and erase the fault memory.

• Heat-Resistant Wiring: In areas like the engine compartment, only use heat-resistant wiring for repairs.

Yes, repairs to these critical systems require special procedures to ensure safety and functionality.

Repairs to Airbag and Belt Tensioner Wiring:

• Use only contacts, connectors, and wiring specifically designed for this purpose, available from the Electronic parts catalogue (ETKA).

• A maximum of two positions may be repaired in the wiring. More repairs increase resistance and can cause faults.

• All crimp connectors must be shrink-fitted to prevent corrosion.

• Mark the repair area with yellow insulating tape.

• Wires to triggering units are entwined. This twine spacing (A = 20 mm ± 5) must be maintained during repairs. The wires must be the same length.

• Any untwisted section of wire (e.g., near connectors) must not be longer than 100 mm (B = 100 mm).

Repairs to CAN bus wiring:

• CAN bus wiring is an unshielded two-wire line. The color codes are: Orange/black (Powertrain high), Orange/green (Convenience high), Orange/violet (Infotainment high), and Orange/brown (all low wires).

• When repairing, both bus wires must have the same length.

• The wires must be twisted together with a length of each complete twist being 20 mm (A = 20 mm).

• Any untwisted section of wire (e.g., near connectors) must not be longer than 50 mm (B = 50 mm).

• Mark the area of repair with yellow insulation tape.

You can repair an open circuit using either one or two repair positions depending on the wire length.

Repair with One Repair Position (Single Crimp Connector):

This method is used if the wire ends are long enough to be joined directly after cutting out the damaged section.

1. If necessary, unbind the wiring harness.

2. Cut out the damaged piece of wiring using wire strippers (e.g., VAS 1978/3).

3. Strip 6 – 7 mm of insulation from both wire ends.

4. Push a crimp connector onto both stripped wire ends.

5. Crimp the connector using the correct recess in the crimping pliers. The insulation must not be crimped.

6. Using a hot air blower, shrink-fit the crimp connector, working from the middle outwards until it is sealed and adhesive escapes from the ends.

Repair with Two Repair Positions (Interlinked Wire):

This method is used if the wire ends are too short. It involves adding a new piece of repair wire.

1. Cut the damaged section out of the vehicle’s wire.

2. Cut a new piece of yellow repair wire to the required length.

3. Strip 6 – 7 mm of insulation from all four wire ends (two on the vehicle wire, two on the repair wire).

4. Use two separate crimp connectors to join the repair wire to the vehicle wire ends.

5. Crimp both connectors securely.

6. Shrink-fit both crimp connectors with a hot air blower.

When multiple wires are repaired, stagger the crimp connectors to prevent the harness from becoming too bulky.

To release contacts, you must use the correct release tools to avoid damage. The process involves disengaging both secondary and primary locking mechanisms.

Step 1: Disengage the Secondary Locking Element

• The secondary lock is a housing catch that secures all wires at once. It is often a different color than the main housing.

• This mechanism must be opened or removed first. Depending on the connector type, this may involve removing a “toothed element,” opening a “flap,” or detaching a “slide.” A small screwdriver can sometimes be used as an aid.

Step 2: Disengage the Primary Locking Element

• The primary lock fixes an individual contact inside the housing.

• Insert the appropriate release tool from the VAS 1978/35 set into the release port of the specific contact housing.

• Gently grab the wire and push the contact slightly *into* the housing. This action, combined with the release tool, lifts the locking tabs of the contact off the housing edge.

• While pushing the release tool, pull the contact and wire out of the back of the housing.

• Remove the release tool once the contact is out.

Never use force to pull a contact out of its housing. Always use the correct tool.

Do not repair Lambda probe wires, as this can result in malfunctions. The entire probe must be renewed. The procedure is similar for both 4-pin (LSF) and 6-pin (LSU) probes.

Procedure:

1. Remove the defective Lambda probe from the vehicle.

2. Place the new uniform probe and the old defective probe next to each other, aligning the sensor housings so they are at the same height.

3. Tie back any excess length in the new uniform probe’s cable (approx. 50 – 250 mm) to match the length of the defective probe’s cable. Secure the excess loop with cable ties.

4. Check that the connector housing on the new probe is compatible with the onboard supply side connector. On older vehicles, it may be necessary to replace the vehicle-side connector housing with the one supplied with the new probe.

5. Install the new Lambda probe into the vehicle.

You can identify the type of probe by the number and size of openings in its protective tube. For example:

• Type D1: 6 openings at 3.5 mm each (4-pin LSF probes).

• Type D2: 6 openings at 2 mm each (4-pin LSF and 6-pin LSU probes).

• Type D4: 12 openings at 1.4 mm each (4-pin LSF and 6-pin LSU probes).