VOLKSWAGEN GOLF VARIANT 2007 (11) PDF Document

The 5-speed manual gearbox 0AF is installed in the VOLKSWAGEN GOLF VARIANT 2007 in conjunction with a 4-cylinder engine. The identification code, allocation, and capacities are detailed in the tables below.

Example of Code Letters and Production Date:

The code letters and production date are found on the gearbox. For example: FVH 12 11 3 represents:

Identification code: FVH

Day: 12

Month: 11

Year: (200)3

Gearbox Specifications:

Further data such as individual gear ratios, gear oil, and clutch allocation can be found in the electronic parts catalogue.

To calculate the overall gear ratio “i”, you need the number of teeth on the drive gear and the driven gear for both the specific gear and the final drive.

Example for 5th gear:

Calculation Steps:

1. The formula for a gear ratio is i = Z2 : Z1 (where Z1 is the number of teeth on the driving gear, and Z2 is the number of teeth on the driven gear).

2. Calculate the Gear ratio (iG): iG = ZG2 : ZG1 = 50 : 37 ≈ 0.740 (Note: The provided PDF seems to have an error here, it should be 50:37, but calculates as 37:50. Following the formula i=Z2:Z1, it should be 50/37. However, using the PDF’s result: iG = 37 : 50 = 0.740).

3. Calculate the Final drive ratio (iA): iA = ZA2 : ZA1 = 69 : 14 = 4.929.

4. Calculate the Overall ratio (total ratio): Overall ratio = iG x iA = 0.740 x 4.929 = 3.647.

When performing repairs on the gearbox of your VOLKSWAGEN GOLF VARIANT 2007, follow these general notes for flawless and successful work. The greatest care and cleanliness, along with the use of proper tools, are essential.

Gearbox:

• When installing the manual gearbox, ensure that the dowel sleeves between the engine and gearbox are correctly seated.

• When installing mounting brackets or waxed components, clean the contact surfaces. They must be free of wax and grease.

• Allocate bolts and other components using the electronic parts catalogue.

• After installation, check the gear oil level.

O-rings, Seals, Gaskets, and Sealants:

• Thoroughly clean housing joint surfaces before applying sealant.

• Apply sealant (e.g., -AMV 188 200 03-) uniformly but not too thickly.

• Always renew O-rings, seals, and gaskets.

• When seals are removed, check the contact surface on housings or shafts for burrs and damage and rectify as necessary.

• Before installing radial shaft seals, lightly oil the outer diameter and half-fill the space between the sealing lips with sealing grease (e.g., -G 052 128 A1-).

• The open side of the oil seal must face the side with fluid filling.

• Press in new oil seals so that the sealing lip does not contact the shaft in the same place as the old seal.

• Lightly oil O-rings before installing to prevent them from being crushed.

• After renewing seals and gaskets, check the oil level in the gearbox and replenish if necessary.

Locking Devices:

• Do not overstretch retaining rings.

• Always renew retaining rings that have been damaged or overstretched.

• Retaining rings must locate properly in their grooves.

• Always renew spring pins. The slit should be in line with the line of force.

Nuts and Bolts:

• Loosen nuts or bolts in the reverse order of the tightening sequence.

• Loosen and tighten securing bolts for covers and housings diagonally and in stages if no sequence is specified.

• Do not cant delicate parts like clutch pressure plates. Loosen and tighten in a diagonal sequence.

• Torque settings are specified for unoiled bolts and nuts.

• Always renew self-locking bolts and nuts.

• Threads of bolts secured with locking fluid must be cleaned with a wire brush before reapplication.

• Threaded holes for self-locking bolts must be cleaned (e.g., with a thread chaser) to prevent shearing.

Bearings:

• Install needle bearings with the lettered side (thicker metal) facing the fitting tool.

• Tapered roller bearings on one shaft must be renewed as a set. Use the same make of bearings.

• Heat inner races to about 100 °C with an inductive heater before installing.

• Do not interchange outer or inner races of bearings of the same size, as they are matched in pairs.

Shims, Synchro-rings, and Clutch:

• Measure shims at several points with a micrometer to achieve the exact thickness.

• Do not interchange synchro-rings. When reusing, always fit them to the same synchromeshed gear.

• Moisten the synchromesh mechanism with gear oil before installing.

• When removing the gearbox, remove the slave cylinder without disconnecting the pipes.

• If the clutch slave cylinder is removed with the hydraulic line attached, do not depress the clutch pedal, as the piston will be pressed out.

• Ensure the pressure plate does not cant; loosen and tighten bolts diagonally in gradual stages.

• If the clutch has burnt out, thoroughly clean the clutch housing and flywheel friction surface.

To remove and install the over-centre spring, you will need special tools like the Release tool -T10178- and a torque wrench.

Removing the Over-Centre Spring:

1. If the vehicle has a knee airbag, disconnect the battery after obtaining the anti-theft code for the radio.

2. Push the driver’s seat back and move the steering wheel to its highest position.

3. Remove the trim and cover below the trim on the driver’s side.

4. For vehicles with a knee airbag, remove the bracket for the knee airbag.

5. Remove the cable guide from the steering column and the footwell vent.

6. Remove the crash bar in front of the clutch pedal (it may be secured with 1 or 2 bolts).

7. If fitted, remove the damping from the lower area of the clutch pedal mounting bracket by removing lock washers and pulling off the insulation. Push the damping upwards.

8. Unbolt the clutch pedal from the mounting bracket by removing the nut and pulling out the bolt. The clutch pedal will remain hooked to the master cylinder’s operating rod.

9. Swing the clutch pedal down slightly and remove the over-centre spring from the mounting bracket.

Installing the Over-Centre Spring:

1. Renew all self-locking nuts.

2. Insert the over-centre spring into the mounting bracket from above, holding the end of the spring with the assembly tool -T10178-.

3. Ensure the receptacle for the tip of the clutch pedal stands vertically.

4. Insert the tip of the clutch pedal into the bearing recess of the over-centre spring.

5. Depress the clutch pedal slightly, push the bolt through, and tighten the new self-locking nut to 25 Nm.

6. If applicable, return the damping on the clutch pedal mounting bracket to its installation position.

7. Reinstall the crash bar. Tighten the 2-bolt attachment to 10 Nm, or the 1-bolt attachment to 20 Nm. Renew the bolts.

8. Reinstall the cable guide, footwell vent, knee airbag bracket (if applicable), and lower trim.

9. Reconnect the battery following the correct procedure.

To bleed the clutch system on your VOLKSWAGEN GOLF VARIANT 2007, you will need brake filling and bleeding equipment (e.g., -VAS 5234- or -V.A.G 1869-). Prefilling the system is not necessary.

Bleeding Procedure:

1. If necessary, remove the complete air filter housing to access the bleeder valve.

2. Connect the brake filling and bleeding equipment to the vehicle.

3. If necessary, use a 670 mm bleeder hose (-V.A.G 1238/B3-).

4. Connect the bleeder hose to the collector bottle of the bleeding equipment.

5. Connect the other end of the bleeder hose to the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder.

6. Pressurise the system to 2 bar.

7. Open the bleeder valve.

8. Allow about 100 cm³ of brake fluid to flow out.

9. Close the bleeder valve.

10. Rapidly operate the clutch pedal from stop to stop 10 to 15 times.

11. Open the bleeder valve again.

12. Allow another 50 cm³ of brake fluid to flow out.

13. Close the bleeder valve.

14. Depress the clutch pedal several times after completing the bleeding process to ensure proper operation.

15. If the air filter housing was removed, reinstall it.

To check the synchro-ring for wear, press the synchro-ring onto the cone of the synchromeshed gear and measure the gap ‘a’ using a feeler gauge.

If the measured gap is at or below the wear limit, the synchro-ring should be replaced.

Removing and installing the gearbox is a complex procedure requiring special tools such as a support bracket, engine/gearbox jack, and various adapters.

Removal Procedure:

1. Disconnect the battery after noting the radio code.

2. Remove the air filter housing, battery, and battery tray.

3. Disconnect the gear selector cables from the gearbox levers. Tie them up.

4. Remove the slave cylinder without disconnecting the hydraulic line. Lay it to the side and secure it. Do not operate the clutch pedal.

5. Remove the upper engine/gearbox connecting bolts and the starter securing bolt.

6. Set up a support bracket (e.g., -10 – 222 A-) to hold the engine/gearbox assembly.

7. Raise the vehicle.

8. Remove noise insulation and the lower part of the front left wheel housing liner.

9. Disconnect the connector for the reversing light switch.

10. Disconnect the exhaust system and remove the pendulum support.

11. Disconnect both drive shafts from the flange shafts and tie them up.

12. Remove the engine/gearbox connecting bolt near the right flange shaft.

13. Remove the hexagon bolts for the left assembly mounting from the gearbox mounting.

14. Unbolt the gearbox support from the gearbox.

15. Position an engine and gearbox jack with a support plate (e.g., -3282- with -3282/31-) under the gearbox.

16. Remove the remaining lower engine/gearbox connecting bolts.

17. Press the gearbox off the dowel sleeves. Have a second person assist by pressing the engine forward.

18. Carefully lower the gearbox, guiding it past the subframe and flywheel.

Installation Procedure:

1. Clean all threaded holes and always use new self-locking bolts.

2. Ensure dowel sleeves for alignment are present in the cylinder block.

3. Clean the input shaft splines and apply a thin coat of grease for the clutch plate.

4. Place the gearbox on the gearbox jack and raise it carefully into position.

5. Guide the gearbox past the subframe and flywheel, then swivel it upwards towards the engine.

6. Insert the gearbox and screw in the connecting bolts. Refer to the torque settings table for correct values.

7. Bolt the gearbox support to the gearbox (40 Nm + 90° turn).

8. Install the left engine/gearbox mounting bolts (60 Nm + 90° turn).

9. Do not remove the engine support bracket until the left and right assembly mountings are tightened to specification.

10. Reinstall all other components (pendulum support, drive shafts, starter, slave cylinder, selector cables, etc.) in the reverse order of removal.

11. Adjust the selector mechanism.

12. Check the gear oil level and top up if necessary.

13. Reinstall the battery, air filter, and all covers.

The torque settings depend on the engine type. Always renew bolts where specified.

For 1.4 l Engine:

For 1.6 l Engine:

Gearbox Support Mountings:

• Gearbox support to gearbox: 40 Nm + 90° turn (renew bolts)

• Gearbox support to gearbox mounting: 60 Nm + 90° turn (renew bolts)

To check the gear oil, you will need a torque wrench and a suitable bit (multi-point bit -3357- or 17 mm Allen key bit).

Checking the Oil Level:

1. If present, remove the noise insulation panel from under the vehicle.

2. Locate the oil filler plug on the side of the gearbox.

3. Remove the oil plug.

4. The oil level is correct when the gearbox is filled to the lower edge of the filler hole.

5. If the level is correct, reinstall the plug and tighten to the specified torque.

Filling with Oil:

1. Remove the oil plug.

2. Fill with the correct specification gear oil until it reaches the lower edge of the filler hole.

3. Screw in the plug.

4. Start the engine, engage a gear, and allow the gearbox to turn for approximately 2 minutes.

5. Stop the engine and remove the plug again.

6. Top up with gear oil to the lower edge of the filler hole.

7. Reinstall the plug and tighten to the specified torque.

Torque Settings for Oil Plugs:

• Oil filler/drain plug with multi-point socket head: 25 Nm.

• Oil filler/drain plug with hexagon socket head: 30 Nm.

The procedure for renewing the left and right flange shaft oil seals is slightly different. You will need special tools like the multipurpose tool -VW 771- and specific pullers/drifts.

Renewing Left Flange Shaft Oil Seal:

1. Remove the left wheel and noise insulation.

2. Remove the lower part of the front left wheel housing liner.

3. Turn the steering to the left lock.

4. Unbolt the drive shaft from the flange shaft and raise it as high as possible.

5. Place a drip tray under the gearbox.

6. Remove the flange shaft securing bolt and pull out the flange shaft with its compression spring.

7. Pull out the old oil seal using a suitable puller (e.g., -VW 771/37-).

8. Half-fill the space between the new seal’s lips with sealing grease (-G 052 128 A1-).

9. Drive in the new seal to its stop using a suitable tool (e.g., -T10082-), being careful not to cant it.

10. Insert the flange shaft.

11. Secure the flange shaft with a new countersunk bolt and tighten to 25 Nm.

12. Reattach the drive shaft, check the gear oil level, and reinstall all removed components.

Renewing Right Flange Shaft Oil Seal:

1. Remove noise insulation and turn steering to the right lock.

2. If fitted, remove the heat shield for the drive shaft.

3. Unbolt the drive shaft from the flange shaft and tie it up.

4. Place a drip tray under the gearbox.

5. Remove the flange shaft securing bolt and pull out the flange shaft.

6. Pull out the old oil seal using a suitable puller.

7. Half-fill the space between the new seal’s lips with sealing grease.

8. Drive in the new seal to its stop using a suitable drift (e.g., -3158-).

9. Insert the flange shaft and secure it with a new bolt, tightened to 25 Nm.

10. Reattach the drive shaft, check the gear oil level, and reinstall all removed components.

It is necessary to readjust the differential when any of the following components on your VOLKSWAGEN GOLF VARIANT 2007 are renewed:

• Gearbox housing

• Clutch housing

• Differential cage

• Tapered roller bearings of the differential

The adjustment procedure involves measuring the axial play of the differential in the housing and selecting the correct thickness shim (S2) to achieve the specified bearing preload.