VINOTEMP VT-DSODIM-R (01) PDF Document

Remove all external and internal packaging from your refrigerator. Be sure that all parts have been included before discarding any packaging materials. You may want to keep the box and packing materials for use at a later date.

Upon receipt and inspection of unit, the supply cord must be replaced if it is damaged. Contact customer service at 1-800-777-8466 or info@vinotemp.com.

Let the unit rest UNPLUGGED for 24 hours once you have it placed in your home.

Remove the exterior and interior packaging.

Before connecting the Ice Maker to the power source, let it stand upright for approximately 2 hours. This will reduce the possibility of a malfunction in the cooling system from handling during transportation.

Clean the interior surface with lukewarm water using a soft cloth.

Attach the water inlet and outlet pipe, loosen the screw nut, choose the function switch. (See Ice Maker Performance Mode instructions.)

Before first use: Make two full batches of ice and then discard to insure that future batches are clean and sanitary.

If the Ice Maker will not be used for a long period, it is suggested, after a careful cleaning, to leave the door ajar to allow air to circulate inside the cabinet. This will minimize the formation of condensation, mold and odors.

Place your Ice Maker on a floor that is strong enough to support it when it is fully loaded. To level your Ice Maker, adjust the front leveling leg at the bottom of the unit.

Locate the Ice Maker away from direct sunlight and sources of heat (stove, heater, radiator, etc.). Direct sunlight and heat sources may increase electrical consumption. Extremely cold ambient temperatures may also cause the unit not to perform properly.

Avoid locating the unit in moist areas.

Plug the unit into an exclusive, properly installed, grounded wall outlet. Do not under any circumstances cut or remove the third (ground) prong from the power cord. Any questions concerning power and/or grounding should be directed toward a certified electrician or an authorized service center.

When installing the ice maker under a counter or other enclosed space, follow these spacing dimensions: Allow approximately 2″ (50 mm) of clearance at rear, 1/16″ (2 mm) at the top and 1″ (25 mm) at sides for proper air circulation. The ventilation grille at the bottom should never be blocked. The installation should allow the ice maker to be pulled forward for servicing if necessary.

Even if the unit is to be installed free-standing, leave at least 4” of clearance at sides, top and back.

Tools required include a Level, Safety Glasses, Gloves, Flashlight, Carpenters Square, Measuring Tape, Drill & Hole Saw Set, and Phillips Screwdriver.

The rough cabinet opening must be on a level floor area at least 25″ deep and 17 ” wide. The opening should have a height of at least 35″.

The electrical outlet may be positioned from within either side of the adjacent cabinetry, or the rear of the shaded area (as shown in Fig A).

If the electrical outlet is located inside the adjacent cabinetry, cut a 1-1/2” diameter hole to admit the power cord. If the cabinet wall is metal, the hole edge must be covered with a bushing or grommet.

Tilt the unit on it’s back on a level ground and remove the 4 cabinet legs (Fig.3 number 4). Reserve the cabinet legs.

Assemble the casters with brake (Fig.3 number 1)on the cabinet front bottom and the other 2 casters (Fig.3 number 2)at the cabinet rear bottom.

Assemble each caster to the bottom of the unit with (2)M5x10 screws with a star or Phillips screwdriver (Fig.3).

The caster brake (Fig.3 number 1) at the front bottom of the cabinet comes with a braking function. When brake handle is “ON” (Fig.2) unit wont roll, when brake handle is “OFF” (released) it will roll.(Fig.2)

Unplug the power cord and release the brake before moving the cabinet.

Do not put any goods on top of the cabinet and avoid slanting the cabinet when moving it.

Push the cabinet from the rear making sure the door does not open.

Please do not use the cabinet in bad weather to avoid short circuits. Position the cabinet under a canopy.

Keep the caster brake in “ON” position while in desired location.

The cabinet must be put on a level ground.

The cabinet will reach it’s cooling efficiency after one hour.

You will need:

Basic tools: adjustable wrench and standard, flat blade screwdriver.

Access to a household cold water line with water pressure between 20 and 120 psi.

A water supply line made of 1/4 inch (6.4mm)OD, copper tubing. To determine the length of copper tubing needed, you will need to measure the distance from the ice maker inlet valve at the back of the Ice Maker to your cold water pipe. Then add approximately 7 feet (2.1 meters), so the Ice Maker can be moved out for cleaning.

A shutoff valve to connect the water supply line to your household water system. (DO NOT use a self-piercing type shutoff valve.)

A compression nut and ferrule (sleeve) for connecting the water supply line to the ice maker inlet valve.

Disconnect Ice Maker from electric power supply.

Place end of water supply line into sink or bucket. Turn ON water supply and flush supply line until water is clear, turn OFF water supply at shut off valve. Unscrew plastic cap from water valve inlet and save.

Slide brass compression nut, then ferrule (sleeve), onto water supply line, as shown in Fig. A.

Push water supply line into water valve inlet as far as it will go (1/4 inch). Slide ferrule (sleeve) into valve inlet and finger tighten compression nut onto valve. Tighten another half turn with a wrench; DO NOT over-tighten.

With steel clamp and screw, secure water supply line to rear panel of Ice Maker at location shown in Fig. A.

Coil excess water supply line (about 2½ turns) behind Ice Maker as shown in Fig. A and arrange coils so they do not vibrate or wear against any other surface.

Turn ON water supply at shut off valve and tighten any connections that leak.

Reconnect Ice Maker to electric power supply.

It takes approximately 24 hours for the ice maker to begin producing ice. Air in new plumbing lines may cause ice maker to cycle two or three times before making a full tray of ice. New plumbing may cause ice to be discolored or have poor flavor. Discard ice made during the first 24-hours.

Although the unit has been tested and cleaned at the factory, due to long-term transit and storage, the first batch or two of cubes must be discarded.

If you choose direct drainage or force drainage mode, you need to purchase an external drain pipe available at your local hardware store. The connection instructions are below: Connect one side of the external drain pipe linked to the outlet pipe of the ice maker; put the other side into the drain hole. (See Fig. B.)

A – Is a pump-assisted drain

B – Is a gravity-fed continuous drain

NOTE: When using pump-assisted drain “A”, the switch (on back) must be turned to the “ON” position.

The unit is delivered to you with the door opening from the left side. Should you desire to reverse the opening direction, please follow these instructions:

Remove 2 screws (1), then pull door (4) in direction of arrow.

Remove 3 screws of right upper hinge (5), then remove right upper hinge. (See Fig. C.)

Use the screws which you removed from the right side hinges to fix the left upper and bottom hinges (8). (See Fig. D & Fig. E.)

Rotate the door 180°, then assemble the door on the opposite side in the same way it was removed.

Performance Mode: Direct drainage mode (Recommended mode)

Suitable situation: Excess water will be drained off by the outlet water pipe on the back of the unit if the height of drain hole in the room is ≤100 mm (3-15/16″).

Screw Nut and Switch Conditions:

Operation instruction: Use a certain length drain pipe, connect one side to the direct water outlet pipe connection (13), the other to the drain hole. Please be sure the connection is tight to avoid water leakage.

Performance Mode: Drain pump mode (Recommended mode)

Suitable situation: Excess water will be forced to drain out by the pump on back of the unit. The height of drain hole in the room is between 101 mm~1500 mm (3-15/16″~59″).

Screw Nut and Switch Conditions:

Operation instruction: Use a certain length drain pipe, connect one side to the force water outlet pipe connector (10), the other to the drain hole. Please be sure the connection is tight to avoid water leakage.

WARNING: The lengthen of drainpipe is no more than 6000 mm (236-4/16″) in order to prevent slops return.

Performance Mode: Manual drainage system mode (If you’re operating using the “Manual drainage system mode”, ice water will restrict drain water from flowing out.)

Suitable situation: Manually drain the water from the ice bin. There is no drain hole in the room.

Screw Nut and Switch Conditions:

Operation instruction:

Please be sure the screw nut and switch are in the above condition to avoid water leakage.

Periodically check the ice bin (1), and water level indicator (5). If the water level exceeds the indicator water level, please drain off the excess water.

When draining off the water, you can remove the ice bin (1), screw nut (front) (3) and seal washer (front) (4). Remove the excess water, then tighten the above screw and seal washer.

The Ice Maker should be placed where the ambient temperature is between 10-32°C (50-90°F). If the ambient temperature is above or below this range, the performance of the unit may be affected.

Please insure the water supply is properly connected. The default setting of the ice maker is set to make medium ice. If you need to revise the ice size, you can press buttons: (Small size icon), (Medium size icon), (Large size icon). The relevant Indicator light will display.

If you want to stop making ice, please press the Power/On/Off button (Icon with a circle and a vertical line) for about 3 seconds; all the indicator lights will go off and the indicator light (Power/On/Off icon) will stay on flashing. If you want to return to making ice, just press the button one more time.

Your ice bin is designed to be easily removed, if you want to take it out, lift up the front part of the bin, then simply pull it out.

Wash the inside surfaces with a warm water and baking soda solution. The solution should be about 2 tablespoons of baking soda to a quart of water.

Wash the ice bin with a mild detergent solution.

Wring excess water out of the sponge or cloth when cleaning area of the controls, or any electrical parts.

Wash the outside cabinet with warm water and mild liquid detergent. Rinse well and wipe dry with a clean, soft cloth.

Most power failures are corrected within a few hours and should not affect the temperature of your appliance if you minimize the number of times the door is opened. If the power is going to be off for a longer period of time, you need to take the proper steps to protect your contents.

Leave the Ice Maker operating during vacations of less than three weeks.

If the appliance will not be used for several months, remove all items and turn off the appliance. Clean and dry the interior thoroughly. To prevent odor and mold growth, leave the door open slightly, blocking it open if necessary.

Take out the cover board (1) of the ice maker machine (Fig. A).

Use the brush to clean all the parts, then use clean water to flush them.

After cleaning, install parts in reverse order.

To drain water from the water container (3), dislodge drain tube.(4) (Fig. B).

If the unit is unplugged, has lost power, or is turned off, you must wait 3 to 5 minutes before restarting the unit. If you attempt to restart before this time delay, the Ice Maker will not start.

Possible causes include: Not plugged in; The appliance is turned off; No power to unit.

Possible causes include: The ambient temperature is too high; The door is opened too often; The door is ajar; The door gasket does not seal properly; Incorrect mode was set; Dirty condenser; External water tank is full; Not enough water.

Check to be sure the Ice Maker is level.

Check to be sure the Ice Maker is level.

Possible normal noise causes include: A rattling noise may come from the flow of the refrigerant. This is normal.

As each cycle ends, you may hear gurgling sounds caused by the flow of refrigerant in your Ice Maker.

Contraction and expansion of the inside walls may cause popping and crackling noises.

The ice dispensing during each cycle may cause a little noise.

The flow of water causes noise during normal ice maker operation.

Possible causes include: The Ice Maker is not level; The water inlet pipe in the back is loose; The water outlet pipe in the back is loose.