PERLICK DR2KS (01) PDF MANUAL

When lifting, the full weight of the cabinet must be supported. Lift from the cabinet base and not from the top. Improper lifting can result in severe damage to the cabinet.

The following table provides general specifications for the Direct Draw Dispensers:

INTERIOR: Fourteen gauge stainless steel sills are reinforced with a 12 gauge angle bracket that extends from one end of the insulated base to the other. The floor pan is 20 gauge, type 304 stainless steel. The walls and ceiling are 20 gauge galvanized steel.

EXTERIOR: All Models: The top is 20 gauge stainless steel. The back is 20 gauge galvanized steel. Bottom is 20 gauge stainless steel. Black Models: Doors, front and sides are 20 gauge black powder coated steel. Stainless Models: Doors, front and sides are 20 gauge stainless steel.

ELECTRICAL: 115 Volt, 60 Hz., 1 Phase AC. Contact Perlick for other voltage/frequency requirements.

PLUMBING: Floor drain 3/4″ female taper pipe exits out right bottom or right end.

REFRIGERATION: Evaporator inlet/outlet routed for left end access.

INSULATION: Foamed-in-place polyurethane; 2″ walls, 1 1/2″ top and floor.

Remove all crating material before operating. Carefully inspect cabinet for hidden damage. If damage is discovered, file your claim immediately with the transportation company. Perlick is not responsible for damage in transit.

Push the cabinet into place using rollers when necessary.

When the cabinet is in place, check installation with a carpenter’s level. A slight pitch to the drain side is desired. Water may accumulate if the cabinet is pitched to the opposite side.

Attach casters to the cabinet bottom in the holes provided. Use the supplied 1/4″- 20 x 3/4″ hex head self-tapping machine screws. Use power driver if available.

Before you begin: Wash tapping devices and faucet. Flush beer, tapping device and faucet lines with fresh water.

• Apply RTV around the base of the dispensing head to seal it to the top. Align the dispensing head over the holes on the cabinet top and use screws provided to secure standard to cabinet top. Wipe off excess RTV to complete the seal.

• Attach faucet to standard using spanner wrench to tighten coupling. Attach faucet handle to faucet.

• Insert flexible plastic air hose six to seven inches into bottom of faucet standard. Secure hose with tie wrap (supplied).

The floor drain in the right rear corner is equipped with a 3/4″ female pipe thread connection with side or bottom access for beer drainer waste.

• Remove either side or bottom drain plug with an allen wrench and attach a 3/4″ male pipe (provided by plumber) to an external drain connection.

The evaporator condensate drain line is located inside a cover below the evaporator and exits through an access hole in the left end of the cabinet. To run the drain line to the right end of the cabinet into the same drain line as the beer drainer, a tee is required, order part No. 57779.

A 2″ access hole in the right end of the cabinet can be used as well for an evaporator condensate drain line exit.

CAUTION: Do not overtighten drain fitting as it may damage the threads.

NOTE: The end of the CO2 line is coiled inside the cabinet. Connect this line to the pressure supply with a hose and fitting.

The cabinet must be connected to a separately fused power source (see electrical specification plate) and grounded in accordance with National and Local Electrical Codes.

Caution: Do not attempt to operate the equipment on any other power source than that listed on the Electrical Specification plate.

To avoid compressor damage, do not run unit if cabinet has been laid on its back. If cabinet has been laid on its back for any reason, place it back into the upright position and allow it to stand for 24 hours before running unit.

• Place one brown leather washer into black beer line connector hose on hex nut side. Screw connector to stainless steel beverage line on faucet standard. Tighten with a wrench, but do not over tighten.

• Make sure lever handle on the keg coupler is in the UP (untapped) position. Place one brown leather washer into wing nut end of black beer line connector hose and thread onto top of keg coupler. Hand tighten.

• Place clamp on one end of red air line. Push end over air valve located inside cabinet. Tighten clamp with screwdriver. Turn shut-off valve to OFF (horizontal) position.

• Place clamp on the other end of red air line and push over tailpiece on coupler. Tighten clamp with screwdriver.

CAUTION: Do not use keg coupler as a handle to lift keg.

• Be sure beer faucet is in closed position.

• Align keg lugs with lug openings on bottom of coupler.

• Turn clockwise 1/4 turn. Pull handle out and down. Keg is now tapped.

• Open shut-off valve on air divider located inside of the cabinet.

Important: Be sure to close this valve when untapping keg.

• Remove blue plug from regulator fitting. (Note: Do not remove the carbonic washer).

• Screw regulator onto gas cylinder valve. Tighten with wrench until vertically straight. Be sure that shut-off valve (black lever) on regulator is in the OFF (horizontal) position.

• Place a screw clamp over end of red air line and push onto regulator tailpiece. Tighten clamp with a screwdriver.

• Turn regulator adjusting screw counterclockwise until it turns freely.

• Turn hand valve counterclockwise on CO2 cylinder to the fully open position.

• Turn regulator adjusting screw clockwise until desired pressure is reached (approximately 12-15 lbs.). Tighten stop nut on adjusting screw.

• Open shut-off valve on bottom of regulator.

Dilute a small amount of liquid dishwashing soap and rub the soapy mixture around each connection. If bubbles appear, tighten connection.

• Turn CO2 hand valve clockwise until seated and close shut-off valve on regulator.

• Unscrew regulator from cylinder fitting.

• Replace carbonic washer (Part No. 157F2P), if needed and reattach regulator to filled cylinder.

• Turn CO2 hand valve counterclockwise until fully open. Turn regulator shut-off valve to open position.

• Adjust CO2 gas flow as required, turning clockwise for higher pressure.

ALWAYS:

• Connect a regulator (reducing valve) to CO2 cylinder.

• Secure cylinder in upright position whether in storage or in use.

• Keep cylinder away from heat. Rupture disc vents at 122° F. maximum.

• Ventilate room after high pressure gas leakage.

• Check the last DOT test date on cylinder neck before filling. If more than five years old, the cylinder must be retested to DOT specifications.

• Be sure CO2 cylinder outlet fitting is free of dust or dirt before attaching regulator.

• Store CO2 cylinder and regulator assembly upright.

• Allow only properly trained and experienced personnel to handle high pressure gas.

NEVER:

• Connect cylinder directly to a keg without a regulator (reducing valve).

• Drop or throw regulator or CO2 cylinder.

• Transport CO2 cylinder in a closed vehicle.

• Apply oil to a regulator.

• Shut off CO2 cylinder when not in use. You will not save gas by doing so!

• Allow untrained, inexperienced personnel to handle high pressure gas.

Failure to heed this warning could result in personal injury or death.

Beverage systems pressurized with carbon dioxide or nitrogen must be equipped with two safety relief valves; one at the cylinder regulator and the other in the gas line upstream on the product tanks.

One of the most common causes of dispensing problems is improper temperature. Draft beer should be stored at a temperature between 32° and 38°. At warmer temperatures, beer will foam.

At temperatures lower than 30° F., beer will freeze. When beer freezes, the alcohol in the beer may separate and cause the beer to be cloudy with an “off” taste.

The following table shows how temperature affects draft beer:

The entire beer system, to include the faucet, flexible beer line and tapping devices must be cleaned at regular intervals. We recommend flushing the entire system with fresh water immediately after a keg has been emptied. Once each month the system should be cleaned chemically.

Cleaning the draft beer system will help to eliminate the buildup of the following materials:

• Bacteria: Beer is an excellent food for bacteria (none of which is harmful). Proper conditions may begin the growth of bacteria in draft beer and on the beer faucet. By regular cleaning, we prevent this bacterial buildup and maintain the quality of the draft beer. Greenish or yellowish colored material on the faucet may indicate bacterial growth.

• Yeast: All domestic draft beers contain a small amount of yeast which remains in the beer from the fermentation process. When the temperature of draft beer exceeds 50° a process of secondary fermentation may take place. The beer faucet may exhibit a white colored substance (yeast build up) if not cleaned on a regular basis.

• Beer Stone: All beer contains calcium which is present from the grains used in the brewing process. it is an important natural material in draft systems in that as it oxidizes it coats the internal parts of the beer lines and equipment. This thin coat of beer stone helps prevent the beer from picking up strong metallic or plastic flavors as it flows through the system. The beer stone will continue to build if the system is not cleaned properly or regularly and can cause drawing problems if it begins to flake off. Beer stone is present if one can see a brownish color on the faucet or inner wall of the beer line, or tobacco-like flakes in the beer.

Use a mild detergent and water to clean the inside and outside of the cabinet. Dry thoroughly. Never use a scouring pad or abrasive cleanser. NOTE: An industrial strength, commercial cleaner can be used to clean the outside of painted cabinets.

Use a long handled, stiff brush to clean the dirt from the front surface of the condenser. Keeping the condenser free from dust and dirt will ensure efficient operation. CAUTION: Do not bend the fins while brushing the front of the condenser.

STEP 1:

Start with a clean glass. Place the glass at a 45° angle, one inch below faucet. Do not let the glass touch the faucet. Open the faucet all the way.

STEP 2:

After the glass has reached half full, gradually bring the glass to the upright position.

STEP 3:

Let the remaining beer run straight down the middle of the glass. This ensures proper release of CO2 by producing a 3/4″ to 1″ foam head.

STEP 4:

Close the faucet quickly and completely.

Wild Beer: Dispensed beer has either too much foam or is all foam.

CAUSES:

• Beer has been dispensed improperly. Solution: See pouring instructions on page 8.

• Regulator pressure is set too high.

• Warm keg temperature. Solution: Keg must be colder than 40°. Target temperature is between 36° and 38° F.

• Cabinet door is opened and closed frequently and temperature is warmer than 38° F. Solution: Adjust temperature to between 36° and 38° F.

• Kinks, dents or obstructions in the line.

• Using oddly shaped glasses. Frosted, waxed or styrofoam containers may cause foaming.

• Dispenser has been turned off for a long period of time.

• Faucet is bad, dirty or in a worn condition.

• Regulator malfunction.

Flat Beer: Foamy head disappears quickly; beer lacks brewery fresh flavor.

CAUSES:

• Dirty glassware.

• CO2 pressure is too low, due to leak or pressure setting.

• CO2 is turned off at night.

• Cooler is too cold.

• CO2 leak or defective (sticking) check valve.

• Sluggish CO2 regulator.

Cloudy Beer: Beer in glass appears hazy, not clear.

CAUSES:

• Dirty glass.

• Dirty faucet or beer line.

• Frozen or nearly frozen beer.

• Old beer.

• Beer that has not been refrigerated for a long period of time.

The following table provides facts about Keg Size and Servings:

• Beer foam is 25% liquid beer and 75% CO2 gas. Don’t waste it!

• Most people prefer beer stored at 38° F.

• Beer lines and faucets require regular cleaning (see cleaning instructions on page 7).

• A fully-charged 4.2 lb. CO2 cylinder will dispense approximately 5 1/2 to 6 1/2 half barrels.

• CO2 gas gives beer its sparkling effervescence. It also gives beer its creamy head of foam.