MORSO S11-40 (01) PDF Document

Distance requirements apply only if the MORSO S11-40 stove is placed near flammable materials. The minimum distances are specified on the certificate of approval on the back of the stove.

The distance to flammable material in front of the stove is 800 mm. It is also recommended that the stove be installed at least 10-15 cm from masonry to allow heat to circulate and to facilitate cleaning.

If the MORSO S11-40 stove is installed on a flammable floor, national and local regulations must be observed regarding the size of the non-flammable underlying surface that must cover the floor beneath the stove. The underlying surface must be able to bear the weight of the stove and, if applicable, the steel chimney.

An efficient, modern stove like the MORSO S11-40 places great demands on the chimney. You should have a chimney sweep check its condition.

Aperture: The aperture area should measure at least 175 cm2 (150 mm diameter) for wood-burning stoves. For Smoke Exempt Morsø stoves fitted with a 125mm diameter flue collar, the minimal cross-sectional area of the chimney system or liner can be 123 cm² (125mm diameter).

Height: There are no specific height requirements, but the chimney must be tall enough to provide a good draught. As a general rule, there will be a satisfactory draught if the chimney extends 4 metres above the stove and at least 80 cm above the spine of the roof.

Cleaning: The chimney and flue pipe must be fitted with cleaning doors, which must be at least the same size as the chimney’s aperture area. The chimney must be accessible for external inspection and for cleaning.

The MORSO S11-40 must never be connected to a chimney to which a gas-burning stove is already connected.

First, take the baffle plates out of the stove to facilitate the installation.

Mounting the flue collar pointing upwards (Top Exit):

The MORSO S11-40 is factory-prepared for a top exit flue collar. The enclosed cast-iron flue collar is fastened to the top of the stove with the included screws. The ball stop, a 160 mm long rod, should also be fitted when installing the chimney to prevent the chimney sweep from damaging the baffle plates.

Mounting the flue collar to the rear:

Remove the knock-out cover from the rear heat shield with firm taps of a hammer next to the small connecting “bridges”. Then remove the cover from the rear convector plate using the same method. Next, unscrew the round cover from the back panel and reinstall it in the hole in the top panel. Fasten the enclosed cast-iron flue collar to the back of the stove with the included screws. The ball stop is not used for a rear flue collar installation. Finally, place the enclosed cover plate in the top panel to cover the flue exit hole.

Before lighting the stove, always make sure the vermiculite baffles are correctly assembled.

If your installation involves taking the chimney straight up and through the ceiling, you must comply with National, Local Building Regulations or flue manufacturers’ instructions concerning clearances to combustible materials such as walls, floor joists, and ceilings. The joint between the stove flue collar and the stovepipe must be sealed using the provided glass fibre rope. It is important that the insulated flue system is properly supported at both the ceiling and roof level.

THE MORSO S11-40 STOVE MUST NOT BEAR THE WEIGHT OF THE CHIMNEY SYSTEM. Excessive weight on the stove will inhibit expansion and could lead to damage of the stove top.

A wood-burning stove requires air for combustion. If your house is very tightly sealed, and particularly if there is a cooker hood or ventilation system, it may be necessary to install an air grate in the room where the MORSO S11-40 is installed. Otherwise, there may not be enough draught in the chimney, which may result in the stove not being able to burn properly, and smoke may come out of the stove when the fire door is opened. If it is necessary to install air grates, they must be positioned so that they cannot be obstructed.

The draught in the chimney will be reduced when:

The temperature difference is too low, e.g. in connection with a poorly insulated chimney. If the chimney is cold, it may help to light (burn up) a rolled-up newspaper in the chimney’s cleaning door.

The outside temperature is too high, e.g. during the summer.

There is no wind.

The chimney is not tall enough, with the result that it sits in the lee of the roof surface or tall trees.

Air is entering the chimney in undesired places, e.g. through cracked joints or leaks in the cleaning door or the flue pipe.

Unsealed, unused fireplaces are connected to the chimney.

The flue pipe and chimney are clogged up with soot due to inadequate cleaning.

The house is too tightly sealed.

A good draught is achieved when:

There is a big difference between the temperature in the chimney and outside, i.e. when the need for heating is greatest.

The weather is clear and there is a good wind.

The chimney is of the proper height, i.e. Minimum 4 metres above the stove, and clear of the spine of the roof.

Your MORSO S11-40 stove is EN-approved for burning wood. However, the stove is capable of burning other solid fuels such as approved manufactured smokeless coal or good quality anthracite (stove nuts).

BITUMINOUS HOUSE COAL SHOULD NEVER BE USED IN YOUR STOVE.

You should not fire with wet or unseasoned wood. Wood should be stored under a roof for at least 1 year, and preferably 2 years, with free access to wind. Use wood once the moisture is less than 20%.

Never use driftwood as it usually has a high salt content. Impregnated and painted wood and chipboard emit poisonous smoke and fumes and should not be used. Liquid fuel may not be used in the stove.

The air supply is regulated with the handle beneath the door. When the handle is in the centre position, the air supply is closed.

Firing with wood: Only the secondary air supply is used. The preheated secondary air is supplied when the handle is turned towards the right.

Firing with solid fuel: Primary air, which is only used when firing with solid fuel (approved manufactured smokeless fuel), is supplied when the handle is turned towards the left.

The third air supply is a continuous, preheated air supply that cannot be regulated. It feeds air to the combustion right above the fire.

Kindling requires a large flow of air. When kindling a cold stove, it is useful to leave the door ajar the first few minutes and open the secondary combustion air supply completely (handle turned to the right).

1. A layer of embers is formed quickly when lit with 2 kindling tablets or similar, together with approx. 1-1.5 kg of dry kindling. Place the kindling sachets evenly under the top layer of kindling.

2. Open the secondary air supply completely with the regulation handle beneath the door by turning it completely towards the right.

3. After the paper/solid alcohol tablets have caught fire, leave the fire door ajar so that the chimney draws well.

4. When you can see that the chimney is hot enough to draw (after 5-10 minutes), close the door. After another 15-20 minutes, a thick layer of embers will have formed.

5. Re-stoking should be carried out while embers still remain. Distribute the embers in the bottom, ensuring most of them are at the front of the stove.

6. Place 2 pieces of wood of 0.5 kg each and approx. 20-22 cm long over the embers in a single layer, with a distance of approx. 1 cm.

7. Open the air supply to maximum and close the door; the fresh wood will then ignite within a couple of minutes.

8. Reduce the amount of combustion air to the desired position, and optimal combustion will continue until there are glowing embers in the bed.

9. A new portion of wood can be added by repeating steps 5 & 6.

Use only dry wood: Use only dry (max. 20% moisture content) and untreated wood. The fuel must be split and 8 – 12 cm thick.

Light: Light with dry kindling (use 1 – 2 kg). Leave the door ajar and stay close to the stove during the lighting phase.

Good layer of embers: Be certain to have a good layer of embers before refilling. The wood should light within 2 minutes. If the logs do not ignite it may, in an extreme case, cause the flue gases to ignite which may pose a risk to material damage or personal injury.

Refuelling: When refuelling use 2 – 3 pieces of wood – no more than 2 – 2.5 kg.

Ensure adequate air: I.e. clear and yellow flames.

Never burn overnight: It harms the environment and constitutes very poor use of the wood as the gases in the wood do not ignite at the low temperature, but settle as soot (unburned gases) in the chimney and stove. Extreme conditions may cause an explosive ignition.

The stove door should never be opened when the stove is being fired vigorously.

The cast surface of the stove is painted with heat-resistant Senotherm paint. It is best maintained by simply vacuuming it with a soft brush attachment or wiping it down with a dry, dust-free cloth. If the stove is used too vigorously, the painted surface may assume a greyish tinge over time, but the stove can easily be freshened up with Morsø spray paint, which is available from your local retailer.

If the stove is used correctly, very little or no soot will be deposited on the ceramic glass window. If soot does form on the glass as the stove is being lit, it will burn away once normal combustion begins. If the glass window becomes thoroughly covered in soot due to incorrect operation, the soot can be easily removed using Morsø Glass Cleaner. The glass must be cold when you clean it. Avoid stoking the stove with pieces of wood that are so long that they press against the glass window when the door is closed. Only use Morsø Glass Cleaner.

The reasons for a sooty glass window are:

The fuel is too wet.

The pieces of fuel are too big/uncut wood.

The combustion temperature is too low.

Insufficient air for the combustion.

The reasons for overly rapid wear of internal parts are:

Stove fired too vigorously.

Use of very dry wood (wood from old furniture).

Too much soot on top of the baffles (please see the section on Cleaning).

Too much ash in the ash pan (please see the section on Ash).

In particular on the topside of the baffle plates, layers of ashes and soot will form as a result of the chimney draft and after a sweep. The baffle plates may be taken out of the stove under normal cleaning. When they are removed, there is access to clean the flue chamber above the baffle plates. The baffle plates are cleaned before they are reinserted, and care should be taken that they are properly put in place.

There should be a layer of approx. 1 cm of insulating ash in the bottom of the combustion chamber to achieve a high combustion temperature. If the layer of ash is too thick, it can be brushed down into the ash pan. Empty the ash pan before it gets completely full so that the ash does not insulate around the grate, which can speed up the burn-through.

In most cases, the ash will need to be taken away by the waste disposal company. Because embers may be concealed in the ash pan for several days, it may be necessary to store the ash in a container made of non-flammable material before pouring it into a rubbish bag. Ash from a wood-burning stove will not be of any benefit to your garden as fertiliser.