DEWALT DW130-220 (01) PDF Document

Use only 3-wire extension cords that have 3-prong grounding-type plugs and 3-pole receptacles that accept the tool’s plug. Ensure the cord is in good condition and heavy enough to carry the current. An undersized cord will cause a drop in line voltage resulting in loss of power and overheating. If in doubt, use the next heavier gage. The smaller the gage number, the heavier the cord.

The spade handle can be attached either horizontally or vertically. Place the handle into the locating boss on the back of the drill and assemble it with the holding knob.

The side handle can be placed on either side of the drill or the top of the drill according to operator preference and available working clearance. Always use the side handle and switch handle. This is a high-torque drill; always hold it firmly with both hands when operating.

Pressing the TOP part of the switch runs the tool in a reverse direction (A). Pressing the BOTTOM part of the switch runs the tool in a forward direction (B). Always let the motor stop completely before changing direction.

To lock the trigger in the “FORWARD” position, depress the LOWER part of the trigger and push up the lock button (C). Then, while holding the lock button in position, gently release the trigger. To release the locking mechanism, depress the trigger fully, then release it.

Note: The locking mechanism will not function if the upper part of the trigger is depressed (reverse operation).

The locking feature is for use when the drill is mounted in a drill stand or otherwise firmly held, NOT BY HAND. Do not lock the switch “ON” when drilling by hand so that you can instantly release the trigger switch if the bit binds in the hole.

To insert a bit, open the chuck jaws by turning the collar with your fingers and insert the shank of the bit about 3/4″ (19mm) into the chuck. Tighten the chuck collar by hand. Place the chuck key in each of the three holes and tighten in a clockwise direction. It is important to tighten the chuck with all three holes.

Follow these steps for chuck removal:

1. Place the chuck key in the chuck. Using a wooden mallet or similar object, strike the key sharply in a CLOCKWISE direction. This will loosen the screw inside the chuck.

2. Open the chuck jaws fully. Insert a screwdriver into the front of the chuck between the jaws to engage the screw head. Remove the screw by turning clockwise (left-hand thread).

3. Place the key in the chuck. Using a wooden mallet or similar object, strike the key sharply in a COUNTERCLOCKWISE direction. This will loosen the chuck so that it can be unscrewed by hand.

1. Always turn off the tool and disconnect from the power supply when attaching or changing bits or accessories.

2. Use sharp drill bits only. For WOOD, use twist drill bits, spade bits, power auger bits, or hole saws. For METAL, use high-speed steel twist drill bits or hole saws. For MASONRY, use carbide-tipped bits.

3. Be sure the material to be drilled is anchored or clamped firmly. If drilling thin material, use a “back-up” block to prevent damage to the material.

4. Always apply pressure in a straight line with the bit. Use enough pressure to keep the drill bit biting, but do not push hard enough to stall the motor or deflect the bit.

5. Hold the tool firmly to control the twisting action of the drill.

6. Keep the motor running when pulling the bit back out of a drilled hole to help prevent jamming.

If the drill stalls, it is usually because it is being overloaded. Release the trigger immediately, remove the drill bit from the work, and determine the cause of stalling. DO NOT click the trigger on and off in an attempt to start a stalled drill, as this can damage the drill.

To minimize stalling on breaking through the material, reduce pressure on the drill and ease the bit through the last fractional part of the hole.

Holes in wood can be made with the same twist drills used for metal. These bits may overheat unless pulled out frequently to clear chips from the flutes. For larger holes, use spade bits, power auger bits, or hole saws. Work that is likely to splinter should be backed up with a block of wood.

Use a cutting lubricant when drilling metals. The exceptions are cast iron and brass which should be drilled dry. The cutting lubricants that work best are sulphurised cutting oil or lard oil; bacon grease will also serve the purpose.

Use carbide tipped masonry bits at low speeds. Keep even force on the drill but not so much that you crack the brittle materials. A smooth, even flow of dust indicates the proper drilling rate.

All bearings used are factory lubricated to last the life of the tool. All needle bearings used receive their lubrication from the grease in the gear case. Clean and relubricate the gear case yearly or whenever servicing requires the gear case to be removed. Use the type and quantity of grease shown on the Parts Bulletin packed with your tool.

Turn off the tool and disconnect it from the power supply. To inspect brushes, unscrew the plastic brush inspection caps (located in the sides of the motor housing) and the spring and brush assemblies may be withdrawn from the tool. Keep brushes clean and sliding freely in their guides. Carbon brushes have varying symbols stamped into them, and if the brush is worn down to a point where the symbol is not visible, they must be replaced.

Use the following table to determine the maximum recommended capacities based on RPM:

NOTE: Accessory must be rated for use at speed equal to or higher than nameplate RPM of tool with which it is being used.