VOLKSWAGEN POLO 2002 (02) PDF Document

This is a maintenance-free battery with liquid electrolyte (wet battery). No stickers should be removed, and you should not replenish it with distilled water. Only perform a visual check.

WARNING: Batteries where the magic eye is colourless or light yellow must not be checked or charged. Do not slave/jump start the vehicle! There is a danger of explosion when checking, charging, or slave/jump starting. These batteries must be renewed.

An AGM battery is a maintenance-free battery with a contained electrolyte and no magic eye. The electrolyte is contained within a microscopic glass mat. The battery is sealed and fitted with valves.

AGM batteries are identified by the abbreviation “AGM” on the battery. Due to the containment of the electrolyte, this type of battery may not have a magic eye. When replacing an AGM battery, it must always be replaced with another absorbent glass mat battery.

♦ Untrained personnel (e.g., apprentices, trainees) may only work on batteries when supervised by a vehicle mechanic or foreman.

♦ Acid is highly corrosive. There is a considerable danger of acid burns. Suitable measures must be taken to ensure equipment is available to neutralize acid burns, such as a soap solution.

♦ If electrolyte leaks from a battery it may cause skin burns or acid corrosion and rusting on the vehicle, potentially damaging safety-relevant components.

♦ The gas which forms when charging is explosive. In extreme cases, a battery may explode if not handled correctly.

♦ Batteries must be renewed where the magic eye is colourless or light yellow. They must not be checked or charged and do not slave/jump start due to danger of explosion.

♦ It is prohibited to cause sparks through grinding, welding, cutting operations, or use naked lights in the vicinity of batteries. Smoking is also prohibited. Sparks from electrostatic charging must also be avoided. Always touch the vehicle body before touching the battery.

♦ Only work on batteries in well-ventilated and suitable rooms.

1. Fires, sparks, naked flames and smoking are prohibited. Avoid sparks from cables and electrical units. Avoid short circuits. Never lay a tool on a battery.

2. Wear eye protection before working on the battery.

3. Keep children away from acid and batteries.

4. Disposal: Old batteries are hazardous waste and must be disposed of through a suitable collection centre according to legislation.

5. Never dispose of old batteries in the household waste system.

6. There is a danger of an explosion. A highly explosive gas is produced when batteries are charged.

7. Always follow instructions on the battery and in the owner’s manual.

8. Battery acid is very caustic; therefore, wear eye protection and gloves. Do not tilt the battery, as acid can leak from the gas vents.

To prevent damage to the battery clamps and terminals, observe the following:

♦ The battery clamps should only be fitted by hand and without using force.

♦ Battery terminals should not be coated with grease.

♦ The battery clamps should be fitted so that the battery terminal is either flush with the clamp or protruding from it.

♦ Once the battery clamps have been tightened to the specified torque, the threaded connections should not be tightened any further.

Carry out the procedure in the following sequence:

1. Perform a visual check.

2. Check the colour display of the “3-colour” or “2-colour” magic eye.

WARNING: Batteries where the magic eye is colourless or light yellow must not be checked or charged. Do not slave/jump start the vehicle! There is a danger of explosion, and these batteries must be renewed.

3. Perform a battery load test using a battery tester with a printer (e.g., VAS 5097 A or VAS 6161).

4. Depending on the result of the battery test, you may need to perform a current draw test.

Carry out the procedure in the following sequence:

1. Perform a visual check.

2. Perform a battery load test using a battery tester with a printer (e.g., VAS 5097 A or VAS 6161).

3. Depending on the result of the battery test, perform a “current draw test”.

It is essential to visually inspect the external condition, check the terminals, and ensure proper attachment of the battery. This test establishes:

♦ If battery housing is damaged: Electrolyte can leak out. If battery acid leaks, serious damage to the vehicle could be caused. Treat components affected by leaked battery acid immediately with an acid neutraliser or a soap solution.

♦ Whether the battery terminals are damaged: The necessary contact on the battery clamps cannot be guaranteed if the terminals are damaged. When connecting the battery clamps, tighten them to the specified torque. If not correctly seated and tightened, the wiring may burn, causing malfunctions in the electrical system.

♦ If the battery is secured correctly: Vibrations shorten the life of the battery. Check that the battery is securely seated and, if necessary, tighten the securing bolt to the specified torque.

Before checking, lightly and carefully tap the magic eye using the handle of a screwdriver to dissipate any air bubbles that could distort the display. The magic eye provides information concerning the electrolyte level and the charge state of the battery. Three different colour displays are possible:

♦ »Green«: Battery is charged sufficiently.

♦ »Black«: Battery is partly discharged (charge state < 65%) or completely discharged.

♦ »Colourless or light yellow«: Battery must be renewed. WARNING: Batteries where the magic eye is colourless or light yellow must not be checked or charged. Do not slave/jump start the vehicle! There is a danger of explosion.

Note that because the magic eye is located in only one cell, the display applies only to that cell. An exact determination of the battery condition is only possible through a battery load test.

For some batteries, the “green” colour display has been discontinued. Before checking, lightly tap the magic eye to dissipate air bubbles. The magic eye provides information concerning the electrolyte level of the battery. The charge state can no longer be read from the magic eye; a battery load test must be performed for this. Two different colour displays are possible:

♦ »Black«: Electrolyte level is OK.

♦ »Colourless or light yellow«: Electrolyte level is too low. The battery must be renewed. WARNING: Batteries where the magic eye is colourless or light yellow must not be checked or charged. Do not slave/jump start the vehicle! There is a danger of explosion.

1. The battery must have a temperature of at least 10 °C.

2. Switch off the ignition and all electrical consumers.

3. Check the low-temperature test current in amperes (A) according to DIN from indications on the battery. If battery values are shown in IEC or EN/SAE, convert the figures using the table below.

4. Select the correct low-temperature test current and measuring range on the tester.

5. Connect the red terminal “+” of the tester to the positive terminal and the black terminal “-” to the negative terminal.

6. Select the point of connection of test terminals (e.g., directly to battery or to external test points).

7. Press the start test button. The test program runs automatically, and the result is typically printed out. If the unit does not start, the battery needs to be recharged.

Note: The test is completed after about 20 seconds. Perform the test once only, as repeating the test falsifies the result.

Table: Cold cranking current in A

The following table outlines the measures to be taken based on the test results for guarantee and service tests:

A current draw test is performed to quickly ascertain the state of discharged batteries and to help determine whether the battery must be replaced or can be fully recharged.

A current draw test should be performed when indicated by a battery tester. For example:

♦ With a VAS 6161 tester, it must be performed when the result is “Perform current draw test”.

♦ With a VAS 5097A tester, it is performed when the result is “Starting output sufficient”, “poor”, or “very poor”, or if the tester will not switch on.

Test Requirements:

♦ Battery temperature must be at least +10 °C.

♦ The charger must be capable of outputting a charge current of at least 30 A.

♦ The battery’s current draw must be measured with a current pick-up clamp.

Procedure:

1. Connect the battery to the battery charger and start the charging sequence.

2. Measure the charging current of the battery after 5 minutes.

Test Result:

♦ If the current draw (in Amperes) is higher than 10% of the nominal capacity (e.g., > 6.1 A for a 61 Ah battery), fully charge the battery and test it again after allowing it to rest for two hours.

♦ If the charge current is below 10% of the nominal capacity after 5 minutes, renew the battery.

This test may only be carried out to assess the condition of the battery on stock and stored vehicles. The battery must not have been charged or discharged within the last 2 days. Use a hand multimeter to check the battery no-load voltage.

A no-load voltage of 11.60 V corresponds to a 0% charge, meaning the battery is discharged and has no capacity.

1. Ensure the battery temperature is at least 10 °C.

2. Switch off the ignition and all electrical consumers.

3. Check the settings on the charger and set it for the correct battery type (e.g., wet, AGM) and capacity (Ah).

4. Connect the red terminal clamp of the charger to the positive terminal on the battery.

5. Connect the black terminal clamp to the negative terminal. Note: For vehicles with a start/stop function and a battery monitor control unit, the black clamp must be connected to body earth, not the negative terminal, to avoid system malfunctions.

6. Switch on the battery charger and begin the charging sequence.

7. The charger will indicate the charging progress. When fully charged, it will typically switch to a “maintaining charge” or “maintenance” mode.

8. To finish, switch off or stop the charging unit, then remove the charger terminals from the battery (negative first, then positive).

The solar panel supports the onboard supply and prevents spontaneous battery discharging.

1. Secure the solar panel on the interior mirror.

2. Place the underside of the panel on the dash panel for support. Note: The panel should not lie fully on the dash panel as this can result in discolouration.

3. Pull the attachment string tight so that the solar panel is positioned close to the windscreen.

4. Connect the solar panel to the diagnostic connection of the vehicle.

5. Check the function of the solar panel. A green LED is integrated in the frame to indicate its function. The brighter the LED, the higher the charging current.

A battery is designated “totally discharged” when the no-load voltage is less than 11.6 V.

Caution:

♦ Totally discharged batteries freeze prematurely.

♦ Frozen batteries should no longer be used.

Notes:

♦ In totally discharged batteries, the electrolyte is comprised almost entirely of water because the acid content is so low.

♦ Totally discharged batteries sulphate, which means the entire plate surfaces of the battery harden.

♦ If a battery is recharged shortly after it has totally lost its charge, the sulphation will mostly dissipate.

♦ If these batteries are not recharged, the plates continue to harden and the ability to recharge is reduced, resulting in a reduction in the battery output.

The functions of the cruise control system are controlled by the engine control unit. To activate or deactivate it using a vehicle diagnostic tester, follow these steps:

1. Connect the vehicle diagnostic tester.

2. Select the “Guided fault finding” mode.

3. Using the “GoTo” button, select “Functions/component” and the following menu options in succession:

♦ Drive

♦ Engine code

♦ 01 – On Board Diagnostic capable systems

♦ Engine management/diesel direct injection and glow plug system

♦ Functions

♦ Activating and deactivating cruise control system (CCS)

Different hose coupling types are used:

♦ Type 1 (No securing device): To loosen, simply pull the two coupling sections apart. To secure, push the two sections together until you hear and feel them engage.

♦ Type 2 (Rotating lock ring): To loosen, rotate the lock ring through 90° and pull off the hose connection. To secure, push on the hose connection and rotate the lock ring back until it engages.

♦ Type 3 (Pull-up lock ring): To loosen, pull up the lock ring by approx. 1 mm and pull off the hose connection. To secure, attach the hose connection and press in the clip until it engages.

♦ Headlight Washer System Type (Push lock ring): To loosen, push the lock ring and pull off the hose connection. To secure, push and hold the lock ring and push on the hose connection. Check that the securing clip has correctly engaged.

1. Cut the damaged section at right angles out of the smooth pipe which is to be repaired.

2. Select the appropriate EPDM hose and cable ties.

3. Cut the EPDM hose so that the ends of the smooth pipe can each be pushed about 10 mm into the EPDM hose.

4. Secure the repair joints with cable ties.

1. Cut the damaged section at right angles out of the corrugated pipe.

2. Select suitable end pieces and correct sized shrink-fit piping.

3. Heat the end of the corrugated pipe.

4. Push a connector into the heated end of the corrugated pipe.

5. Repeat for the other end of the pipe and the other connector piece.

6. Cut the heat-shrink hose so that the ends of the corrugated pipe are each covered by about 20 mm.

7. Push the heat-shrink hose over the corrugated pipe, join the connectors, and secure the repair joints with the heat-shrink hose using a hot air blower.

Wiper blades from different manufacturers like Bosch and Federal Mogul can be identified according to their specific wiper arm fastening design. When renewing wiper rubbers or the entire wiper blade, the same make must be used to ensure correct fitment.

WARNING: Control units, connectors, and components for light systems conduct lethally high voltage.

♦ High Voltage Safety:

– It is absolutely necessary to disconnect the battery earth strap before working on parts of the gas discharge headlights marked with yellow high voltage symbols.

– After disconnecting, switch the dipped beam on and off again. This will eliminate any possible residual voltage.

– The gas discharge lamp control unit must never be operated without a gas discharge lamp fitted.

– The bulb must only be operated in the headlight housing.

♦ Bulb Safety:

– H7 and gas discharge bulbs (xenon) are under pressure and can explode while being changed, causing a danger of injury.

– Always wear protective goggles and gloves when removing and installing gas discharge bulbs.

– The glass of the bulbs can be very hot, creating a danger of burns.

– Avoid looking directly into the light beam due to high UV radiation and the danger of glare; vision may be impaired.

Repair Notes for Gas Discharge Bulbs:

♦ Before exchanging a bulb, always switch off the affected consumers, switch off the ignition, and remove the ignition key.

♦ Do not touch the bulb glass with bare fingers; use clean cloth gloves. Oil from fingerprints can impair the brightness of the headlight.

♦ A light bulb must always be renewed with a bulb of the same sort. The designation appears on the base of the bulb.

♦ Properly engage connectors during installation and ensure a tight seating of the connection.

Disposal Regulations for Gas Discharge Bulbs:

♦ Gas discharge bulbs must be disposed of as hazardous waste; never dispose of them as conventional waste.

♦ Gas discharge bulbs contain metallic mercury (Hg) and traces of thallium; never destroy these bulbs.

♦ These components must be recycled in accordance with national law.

♦ Dispose of only in containers intended for this purpose at an authorised collection point.

Caution: Only illuminated sockets (cigarette lighter) can be removed with the puller T 40148. Sockets without illumination usually cannot be removed without being damaged.

1. Remove the cigarette lighter or dummy cigarette lighter from the socket if necessary.

2. Push the puller (T 40148) into the socket so that its locking lugs engage in the recesses.

3. Pull the grip on the puller to release the locking lugs of the retaining sleeve.

4. Pull the socket out of the retaining sleeve using the puller. Take care not to stretch the wiring when pulling out the socket.

5. Pull off the socket connector.

6. To remove the puller from the socket, press the spindle on the puller to release its locking lugs.

Note: On some vehicles, the illumination is provided by an LED that is permanently attached and cannot be renewed separately. This procedure applies only to sockets with a replaceable light bulb.

Removing:

1. Remove the socket from the vehicle.

2. Press the retaining lugs and remove the retaining sleeve together with the bulb carrier.

3. Unclip the bulb carrier from the retaining sleeve.

4. Separate the bulb carrier to access the bulb.

5. Remove the light bulb.

Installing:

Installation is carried out in reverse order of removal.

1. Apply the handbrake.

2. For vehicles with an automatic gearbox, move the selector lever to position “P” or “N”. For vehicles with a manual gearbox, move the gearstick to the neutral position.

3. For Golf Model Year 1998 – 2003, you may need to pull out a trim piece to access the diagnostic interface.

4. With the ignition switched off, connect the vehicle diagnostic tester using the appropriate diagnostic cable to the diagnostic interface in the vehicle.

5. Switch on the ignition.

6. Switch off all electrical consumers.

♦ Observe the latest notes in the respective workshop manual and any country-specific regulations.

♦ Always disconnect the battery earth strap before working on the electrical system.

♦ Before starting a repair, it is important to identify and rectify the cause of damage (e.g., sharp edges, corrosion).

♦ Soldering is not permitted for repairs to vehicle wiring.

♦ Wiring harness and connector repairs should be carried out using the specified wiring harness repair set. Repairs should be marked with yellow adhesive tape.

♦ Crimp connectors must be shrink-fitted using a hot air blower to prevent any ingress of moisture.

♦ It is essential that supplementary information is observed for repairs to airbag systems, CAN bus lines, and fibre optic cables.

♦ Carry out a function test after every repair.

♦ Screened wires and fibre optic cables must not be repaired; if damaged, they must be replaced completely.

♦ For heat-resistant wiring (mainly in the engine compartment), only use heat-resistant wiring for repairs.

WARNING: Faulty repairs to the airbag and seat belt tensioning system can cause malfunctions in the passenger protection system.

♦ For repairs, only use contacts, connectors, and wiring designed specifically for this purpose.

♦ A maximum of two positions may be repaired in the wiring harness. Any more repairs can increase resistance and trigger faults.

♦ To avoid corrosion, the crimp connectors must always be shrink-fitted.

♦ Do not incorporate the repaired wiring back into the vehicle’s own harness; mark the area of repair clearly with yellow insulating tape.

♦ Repairs should be no more than 30 cm from the next contact housing.

♦ The wires to the triggering units are entwined with a standard spacing of 20 mm ± 5. This spacing must be adhered to on repair lengths.

♦ During repairs, the wires to the triggering units must have the same length.

♦ There must not be any section of wiring longer than 100 mm that is not twisted (e.g., in the vicinity of crimp connectors).

♦ An unshielded two-wire line with a cross-section of 0.35 mm² or 0.5 mm² is used for CAN bus wiring.

♦ The colour codes of the CAN bus wiring are as follows:

– Powertrain CAN, high wire: Orange/black

– Convenience CAN, high wire: Orange/green

– Infotainment CAN, high: Orange/violet

– CAN low wire (all): Orange/brown

♦ When repairs are performed, both bus wires must have the same length.

♦ When twisting the wires together, the length of each complete twist must be 20 mm.

♦ There must not be any section of wiring longer than 50 mm that is not twisted (e.g., in the vicinity of crimp connectors).

♦ Mark the area of repair with yellow insulation tape to make it easy to identify.

For a single repair position (if wires are long enough to reconnect):

1. Unbind the wiring harness if necessary.

2. Cut out the damaged piece of wiring.

3. Strip the insulation from the wire ends by 6-7 mm using wire strippers.

4. Push the crimp connector on both stripped wire ends and crimp it on using the correct crimping pliers.

5. Heat up the crimp connector using a hot air blower, working from the middle outwards, until it is sealed completely.

For two repair positions (if wires are too short and a new piece is needed):

1. Cut out the damaged section.

2. Cut a new piece of yellow repair wire to the required length.

3. Strip all four wire ends (two on the vehicle harness, two on the repair wire).

4. Use two crimp connectors to join the repair wire between the ends of the vehicle’s own wire.

5. Crimp both connectors.

6. Shrink-fit both connectors with a hot air blower.

Note: When making several repairs in the same area, ensure the crimp connectors are not directly adjacent to each other. Stagger them to prevent the wiring harness from becoming too thick.

1. To release, always use the correct release tools. Under no circumstances should contacts be pulled out with force.

2. If present, first open or disengage the secondary locking mechanism of the contact housing. This is often a different colour from the rest of the housing and can be a toothed element, a flap, or a slide.

3. Insert the appropriate release tool for the specific contact type into the release port of the contact housing.

4. Grab hold of the contact by the wire and push it lightly into the contact housing. This action helps lift the locking tabs of the contact.

5. At the same time, push the release tool further into the housing and then pull the released contact out from the back of the housing.

6. Once the contact has been removed, the release tool can be pulled out of the contact housing.

WARNING: Disconnect the battery before beginning.

1. Loosen the cap nut and remove the ring terminal from the threaded connection.

2. Check the ring terminal and connection for corrosion, dirt, etc.

3. Select a suitable adapter and sanding pad (grey pads are for light dirt and “soft surfaces”; red pads are for heavy dirt and “hard surfaces”).

4. Insert the adapter into the ring terminal and grind off corrosion and dirt with circular movements. For threaded posts, place the adapter over the post and clean.

Caution: Take care not to abrade excessively the tin coating and ensure that the copper does not appear. This could produce a galvanic cell which destroys metal and causes a faulty repair.

5. If necessary, remove any punching burr on the ring terminal using a deburrer.

6. Tighten the ring terminal to the specified torque. Optimum contact is ensured when components are tightened to the specified torque after cleaning.

7. Apply a suitable anti-corrosion treatment to the connection.

8. Reconnect the battery and, if necessary, teach in electric windows, enter the radio code, and set the clock.

Note: Do not repair lambda probe wires, since this can result in malfunctions. The wires should not be crimped or cut as otherwise the function of the Lambda probe will be impaired.

1. Remove the defective Lambda probe.

2. Place both the old and new Lambda probes next to each other so that the sensor housings are at the same height.

3. Tie back any excess length in the new uniform probe’s wire (approx. 50 – 250 mm) to match the size of the defective probe and secure it with cable ties.

4. Check that the connector housing of the new Lambda probe is compatible with the onboard supply side connector. If necessary on older vehicles, replace the connector housing.

5. Install the new Lambda probe in the vehicle.