VOLKSWAGEN LUPO 1999 (02) PDF Document

Your VOLKSWAGEN LUPO 1999 may have one of the following maintenance-free battery types:

Battery with magic eye: This is a maintenance-free wet battery with liquid electrolyte. It is equipped with a “magic eye” that provides information about the electrolyte level and charge state through a colored display. Stickers should not be removed, and it should not be replenished with distilled water. Only a visual check is performed.

Absorbent glass mat (AGM) battery: This is a maintenance-free battery with a contained electrolyte and no magic eye. The electrolyte is contained within a microscopic glass mat. The battery is sealed and fitted with valves. These batteries are identified by the abbreviation “AGM” on the battery itself. An AGM battery should always be replaced with another AGM battery.

When handling the battery on your VOLKSWAGEN LUPO 1999, observe the following safety warnings:

• Only trained personnel should work on batteries, or apprentices/trainees must be supervised.

• Battery acid is highly corrosive. Keep a neutralizing solution (like a soap solution) available to treat acid burns.

• Leaking electrolyte can cause skin burns and corrosion on the vehicle, potentially damaging safety-relevant components.

• The gas produced during charging is explosive. A battery may explode if not handled correctly.

• Batteries with a colorless or light yellow magic eye must be renewed. Do not check, charge, or jump-start them due to explosion risk.

• Avoid sparks, grinding, welding, cutting, and naked lights near batteries. Smoking is prohibited. Avoid electrostatic charging by touching the vehicle body before touching the battery.

• Always work on batteries in well-ventilated and suitable rooms.

The safety markings on the battery of your VOLKSWAGEN LUPO 1999 indicate the following precautions:

1. Fires, sparks, naked flames, and smoking are prohibited. Avoid sparks from cables and electrical units. Do not lay tools on the battery to avoid short circuits.

2. Wear eye protection before working on the battery.

3. Keep children away from acid and batteries.

4. Disposal: Old batteries are hazardous waste and must be disposed of at a suitable collection center according to legislation.

5. Never dispose of old batteries in household waste.

6. Danger of explosion: A highly explosive gas is produced when batteries are charged.

7. Always follow instructions on the battery and in the owner’s manual.

8. Caustic acid: Battery acid is very caustic. Wear eye protection and gloves. Do not tilt the battery, as acid can leak from vents.

To prevent damage to the battery clamps and terminals on your VOLKSWAGEN LUPO 1999, observe the following:

• The battery clamps should only be fitted by hand and without using force.

• Battery terminals should not be coated with grease.

• The battery clamps should be fitted so that the battery terminal is either flush with the clamp or protruding from it.

• Once the battery clamps have been tightened to the specified torque, the threaded connections should not be tightened any further.

It is essential to visually inspect the external condition, terminals, and attachment of the battery on your VOLKSWAGEN LUPO 1999 before performing extensive tests. A visual check establishes the following:

• Housing Damage: Check if the battery housing is damaged. If it is, electrolyte can leak out, causing serious damage to the vehicle. Treat any components affected by leaked battery acid immediately with an acid neutralizer or soap solution.

• Terminal Damage: Check if the battery terminals are damaged. Damaged terminals can prevent proper contact with the battery clamps. When connecting clamps, tighten them to the specified torque. If not seated and tightened correctly, the wiring may burn, causing electrical system malfunctions.

• Secure Seating: Ensure the battery is secured correctly. Vibrations can shorten the battery’s life, and in extreme cases, there is a risk of explosion, damage to cell plates, or damage to the battery housing from the clamping bracket. Check that the battery is securely seated and tighten the securing bolt to the specified torque if necessary.

The “3-colour” magic eye provides information on the electrolyte level and charge state of the battery in your VOLKSWAGEN LUPO 1999. Before checking, gently tap the magic eye with a screwdriver handle to dissipate any air bubbles that could distort the display.

The three possible colour displays are:

• Green: The battery is sufficiently charged.

• Black: The battery is partly discharged (charge state < 65%) or completely discharged.

• Colourless or light yellow: The battery must be renewed. Do not check, charge, or jump-start a battery with this display, as there is a danger of explosion.

Note that the magic eye only reflects the condition of one cell, so a full battery load test is the only way to determine the exact condition of the entire battery.

For some newer replacement batteries in your VOLKSWAGEN LUPO 1999, the magic eye display has been simplified and no longer indicates the charge state, only the electrolyte level. Before checking, gently tap the magic eye with a screwdriver handle to dissipate any air bubbles.

The possible colour displays are:

• Black: The electrolyte level is OK. A battery load test must be performed to determine the charge state.

• Colourless or light yellow: The electrolyte level is too low. The battery must be renewed. Do not check, charge, or jump-start a battery with this display due to the danger of explosion.

If your battery values are shown in a standard other than DIN, use this table to convert the cold cranking current in Amperes (A).

When assessing the test results for the battery in your VOLKSWAGEN LUPO 1999 from a battery tester like the VAS 5097A or VAS 6161, use the following tables to determine the necessary actions.

For Guarantee and Service Tests (VAS 6161):

For Maintenance Tests (VAS 6161):

After taking these measures, wait a few minutes and test again. If you performed the test at a jump-start point and the message does not disappear, perform the test directly on the battery.

To perform a current draw test while charging the battery of your VOLKSWAGEN LUPO 1999, the following requirements must be met:

• The battery temperature must be at least +10 °C.

• The charger must be capable of outputting a charge current of at least 30 A (e.g., VAS 5095A, VAS 5900, VAS 5903).

• The battery’s current draw must be measured with a current pick-up clamp.

Test Procedure and Result:

1. Connect the battery to the charger and start the charging sequence.

2. Measure the charging current of the battery after 5 minutes.

Test Result Interpretation:

• If the current draw is higher than 10% of the nominal capacity (e.g., > 6.1 A for a 61 Ah battery), fully charge the battery and test it again after a two-hour rest period.

• If the charge current is below 10% of the nominal capacity after 5 minutes, the battery must be renewed.

The no-load voltage test is used to assess the battery’s condition on stock and stored vehicles. The battery must not have been charged or discharged within the last 2 days. Use a hand multimeter to check the voltage.

To charge the battery of your VOLKSWAGEN LUPO 1999, follow these steps. The battery must have a temperature of at least 10 °C.

1. Switch off the ignition and all electrical consumers.

2. For chargers with a battery type switch (like VAS 5095 A), check the setting. It must be set to 2.4 V/C (volts/battery cell).

3. Connect the red terminal clamp (+) of the charger to the positive terminal on the battery.

4. Connect the black terminal clamp (-) of the charger to the negative terminal on the battery.

5. Switch on the battery charger.

6. The charging indicators will light up. When only the “90 %” indicator is lit, the battery is partially discharged. When the “fully charged” LED lights up green, the charger has switched to “maintaining charge” and the battery is full.

7. Switch off the charging unit.

8. Remove the charger unit terminals from the battery terminals.

The solar panel VAS 6102A supports the onboard supply and prevents spontaneous battery discharging. It is suitable for all rechargeable lead or lead-gel batteries.

1. Secure the solar panel on the interior mirror.

2. Place the underside of the panel on the dash panel for support. Do not let the panel lie fully on the dash panel, as this could cause discoloration.

3. Pull the attachment string tight so that the solar panel is positioned close to the windscreen.

4. Connect the solar panel to the diagnostic connection of the vehicle.

5. Check the function of the solar panel. A green LED on the frame indicates its function; the brighter the LED, the higher the charging current.

To activate or deactivate the cruise control system (CCS) on your VOLKSWAGEN LUPO 1999 using a vehicle diagnostic tester, follow these steps:

1. Connect the vehicle diagnostic tester to the vehicle.

2. Select “Guided fault finding” mode in the vehicle diagnostic tester.

3. Using the “GoTo” button, select “Functions/component” and navigate through the following menu options in succession:

• Drive

• Engine code

• 01 – On Board Diagnostic capable systems

• Engine management/diesel direct injection and glow plug system

• Functions

• Activating and deactivating cruise control system (CCS)

Your VOLKSWAGEN LUPO 1999 uses several types of hose couplings for the washer system. Here is how to handle them:

Type 1 (Simple Push-Fit):

• To loosen: Pull the two coupling sections apart (no securing device).

• To secure: Push the two sections together until you hear and feel them engage.

Type 2 (Rotating Lock Ring):

• To loosen: Rotate the lock ring 90 degrees and pull off the hose connection.

• To secure: Push on the hose connection and rotate the lock ring back until it engages.

Type 3 (Lifting Lock Ring/Clip):

• To loosen: Pull up the lock ring/clip by approx. 1 mm and pull off the hose connection.

• To secure: Attach the hose connection and press in the clip until it engages.

Headlight Washer System Coupling:

• To loosen: Push the lock ring and pull off the hose connection.

• To secure: Push and hold the lock ring while pushing on the hose connection. Check that the securing clip is correctly engaged.

The repair procedure depends on whether the hose is smooth or corrugated.

Repairing a Smooth Pipe:

1. Cut the damaged section out of the smooth pipe at a right angle.

2. Select an appropriate EPDM hose and cable ties.

3. Cut the EPDM hose so that the ends of the smooth pipe can each be pushed about 10 mm into it.

4. Secure the repair joints with cable ties.

Repairing a Corrugated Pipe:

1. Cut the damaged section out of the corrugated pipe at a right angle.

2. Select suitable end pieces and the correct sized heat-shrink piping.

3. Using a hot air blower, heat the end of one piece of corrugated pipe.

4. Push a connector into the heated pipe.

5. Repeat for the other piece of corrugated pipe and the other connector.

6. Cut a piece of heat-shrink hose long enough to cover the ends of both pipes by about 20 mm each.

7. Push the heat-shrink hose over the corrugated pipe, join the connectors, and secure the repair joint by shrinking the hose with the hot air blower.

Working on gas discharge (xenon) headlights requires extreme caution due to high voltage and other hazards. Always observe the following:

High Voltage Danger:

• Before working on any part of the gas discharge headlights (marked with yellow high voltage symbols), you must disconnect the battery earth strap.

• After disconnecting the battery, switch the dipped beam on and off again to eliminate any possible residual voltage.

• Control units and connectors conduct lethally high voltage (above 28,000 V on ignition). Never operate the control unit without a bulb fitted.

Pressure and Temperature Danger:

• Gas discharge bulbs are under pressure and can explode if changed improperly, causing injury.

• Always wear protective goggles and gloves when removing and installing these bulbs.

• The bulbs must only be operated inside the headlight housing.

• The glass of the bulbs gets very hot, posing a danger of burns.

Radiation and Glare:

• Avoid looking directly into the beam. The UV rays are about 2.5 times greater than normal halogen bulbs, and the intense light can cause glare and impair vision for a substantial time.

Repair and Disposal Notes:

• Do not touch the bulb glass with bare fingers; use clean cloth gloves.

• Gas discharge bulbs are hazardous waste and must be disposed of at an authorized collection point, not in conventional waste. They contain metallic mercury (Hg) and traces of thallium.

This procedure applies to illuminated sockets and requires the special puller T 40148. Sockets without illumination usually cannot be removed without being damaged.

Removing:

1. If present, remove the cigarette lighter or dummy plug from the socket.

2. Push the puller (T 40148) into the socket so that its locking lugs engage in the recesses inside the socket.

3. Pull the grip on the puller to release the locking lugs of the retaining sleeve.

4. Pull the socket out of the retaining sleeve using the puller. Be careful not to stretch the wiring.

5. Pull off the socket connector.

6. To remove the puller from the socket, press the spindle on the puller and turn the puller body briefly to the left to release its locking lugs.

Caution: When the puller is mounted, the socket’s retaining springs are pressed apart, reducing the force that holds the cigarette lighter in. After removing the socket, carefully press these springs back together and check that the cigarette lighter stays in position after its heating phase.

Installing:

Install in the reverse order of removal.

Note: On some vehicles, the illumination is provided by an LED that is permanently attached and cannot be renewed separately. This procedure is for vehicles with a replaceable bulb.

Removing:

1. Remove the cigarette lighter socket from the vehicle.

2. Press the retaining lugs on the retaining sleeve and remove the sleeve together with the bulb carrier.

3. Unclip the bulb carrier from the retaining sleeve.

4. Separate the bulb carrier into its parts and open the main body of the carrier.

5. Remove the light bulb.

Installing:

Installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal.

To connect a vehicle diagnostic tester to your VOLKSWAGEN LUPO 1999, follow these steps:

1. Apply the handbrake.

2. For vehicles with an automatic gearbox, move the selector lever to position “P” or “N”. For manual gearboxes, move the gearstick to the neutral position.

3. With the ignition switched off, connect the diagnostic tester using the appropriate diagnostic cable (e.g., VAS 5051/6A) to the diagnostic interface in the vehicle.

4. Switch on the ignition.

5. Switch off all electrical consumers before beginning diagnosis.

When performing repairs on the vehicle electrical system of your VOLKSWAGEN LUPO 1999, adhere to the following guidelines:

• Always disconnect the battery earth strap before working on the electrical system.

• Before starting a repair, identify and rectify the cause of the damage (e.g., sharp edges, corrosion).

• Soldering is not permitted for repairs to vehicle wiring.

• Use only the approved wiring harness repair set (e.g., VAS 1978 B). Only use yellow wires from this repair set.

• Wiring harness repairs should not be integrated into the vehicle’s own wiring harness and must be marked with yellow adhesive tape to indicate a previous repair.

• Crimp connectors may never be repaired. If needed, lay a new wire parallel to the defective one. After crimping, connectors must be shrink-fitted using a hot air blower to prevent moisture ingress.

• Observe supplementary information for specific systems like airbag, CAN bus, and fibre optic cables.

• Carry out a function test after every repair. You may need to interrogate and erase the fault memory.

• Screened wires must not be repaired; they must be replaced completely.

• For heat-resistant wiring (found mainly in the engine compartment), only use heat-resistant repair wiring.

Airbag and Belt Tensioner Wiring Repairs:

• Only use approved wiring harness repair sets for these critical safety systems.

• A maximum of two positions may be repaired in the wiring. More repairs increase resistance and can trigger faults.

• Crimp connectors must always be shrink-fitted to prevent corrosion.

• Do not incorporate the repair back into the main harness; mark the area with yellow insulating tape.

• Repairs should be no more than 30 cm from the next contact housing.

• The wires to the triggering units are entwined. This standard twine spacing of 20 mm ± 5 must be adhered to on the repair lengths.

• During repairs, both wires must have the same length.

• There must not be any section of wiring longer than 100 mm that is not twisted, for example, near the crimp connectors.

Fibre Optic Cables (FOC):

There is no provision for fibre optic cable repairs. The entire fibre optic wiring harness must be replaced. When handling, observe the following:

• Avoid sharp bends; the bend radius should be no tighter than 25 mm.

• Do not route cables over sharp edges.

• The end pieces (lenses) must not be made dirty or touched with bare hands.

• Do not expose cables to heat.

• Entwining two fibre optic cables or a fibre optic cable with a copper wire is not permissible.

CAN bus wiring is an unshielded two-wire line with a cross section of 0.35 mm² or 0.5 mm². When performing repairs, follow these rules:

• Use the correct wire colour codes for the specific CAN system you are repairing:

• Both bus wires must have the same length after the repair.

• When twisting the two wires together, the length of each complete twist must be 20 mm.

• There must not be any section of wiring longer than 50 mm that is not twisted (e.g., near crimp connectors).

• Mark the area of repair with yellow insulation tape for easy identification.

The procedure depends on whether you can join the existing wires or need to add a new section.

With One Repair Position (ends are long enough):

1. Cut out the damaged piece of wiring.

2. Strip 6 – 7 mm of insulation from both wire ends.

3. Push a single crimp connector onto both stripped wire ends.

4. Crimp the connector using the correct recess in the crimping pliers.

5. Using a hot air blower, shrink-fit the crimp connector, working from the middle outwards until it is sealed completely and adhesive escapes from the ends.

With Two Repair Positions (interlinked wire needed):

1. Cut out the damaged section of wire.

2. Cut a length of new yellow repair wire to bridge the gap.

3. Strip 6 – 7 mm of insulation from all four wire ends (two on the vehicle harness, two on the new repair wire).

4. Use two separate crimp connectors to join the repair wire to the vehicle’s harness.

5. Crimp and then shrink-fit both connectors as described above.

Note: When repairing multiple wires, ensure the crimp connectors are staggered and not directly adjacent to each other to prevent the harness from becoming too thick.

To release an individual crimp contact from a connector housing, you must first disengage the secondary lock, then the primary lock.

1. Disengage the Secondary Locking Element:

The secondary locking element secures all wires in the housing at once and is usually a different color. It must be opened or removed before individual contacts can be released. Depending on the connector type, this can be a toothed element that slides out, a flap that opens, or a slide that is detached. Use a small screwdriver if needed.

2. Disengage the Primary Locking Element:

The primary locking element is what holds each individual contact in place. The method varies by connector type:

• Round Connectors: Insert the appropriate release tool into the release port. Gently push the contact’s wire into the housing while simultaneously pushing the release tool. This will disengage the locking tabs. Pull the released contact out from the back.

• Flat Connectors: The process is similar. Insert the release tool, push the wire in slightly to help lift the locking tab(s), and then push the release tool to disengage the contact and pull it out.

• Special Connectors (e.g., GT 150/280): Insert the release tool under the locking tab and push it to its limit stop, which will eject the contact from the housing.

Always use the correct release tool for the specific contact and housing to avoid damage. Never pull on the wires with force.

Use a contact surface cleaning set (like VAS 6410) for this work. Do not use penetrating fluid, contact spray, or grease, as this can affect tightening torque.

Cleaning a Ring Terminal:

1. Disconnect the battery.

2. Loosen the cap nut and remove the ring terminal from the threaded connection.

3. Check the terminal for corrosion and dirt.

4. Select a suitable adapter and sanding pad (grey for light dirt, red for heavy dirt).

5. Insert the adapter into the ring terminal and grind off corrosion with circular movements. Be careful not to abrade excessively and expose the underlying copper.

6. If necessary, remove any punching burr with a deburrer.

Cleaning a Threaded Connection (Stud):

1. Check the threaded connection for corrosion.

2. Select a suitable adapter and sanding pad.

3. Set the adapter on the threaded connection and grind off corrosion with circular movements.

Reassembly:

1. Tighten the ring terminal to the specified torque.

2. Apply a suitable anti-corrosion treatment.

3. Reconnect the battery.

Lambda probe wires should not be repaired. The entire probe must be renewed. The procedure is similar for 4-pin (LSF) and 6-pin (LSU) probes.

1. Do not repair the wires. If necessary, replace attachment parts like cable ties to match the old probe’s setup.

2. Remove the defective Lambda probe from the vehicle.

3. Place the new uniform probe and the old defective probe next to each other so that the sensor housings are at the same height.

4. Tie back any excess length in the new uniform probe’s cable (approx. 50 – 250 mm) to match the length of the old probe’s cable. Secure the loop with cable ties.

5. Check that the connector housing on the new probe is compatible with the onboard supply side connector. On older vehicles, it may be necessary to replace the vehicle-side connector housing with the one supplied with the new probe.

6. Install the new Lambda probe in the vehicle.

In addition to the part number, you can identify the type of Lambda probe by the design of its protective tube:

• Type D1: Has 6 openings, each 3.5 mm in size. This type is only used on 4-pin LSF Lambda probes.

• Type D2: Has 6 openings, each 2 mm in size. This type is used on 4-pin LSF Lambda probes.

• Type D4: Has 12 openings, each 1.4 mm in size. This type is used on 4-pin LSF Lambda probes and 6-pin LSU Lambda probes.