VOLKSWAGEN JETTA 2005 (20) PDF Document

Batteries can be dangerous. To avoid hazards, follow these safety regulations:

Fire, sparks, naked lights, and smoking are prohibited when handling batteries. Avoid sparks and electrostatic discharge when working with cables and electrical units, and avoid short circuits. Do not place tools on the battery.

Wear eye protection before starting work on the battery.

Keep children away from acid and batteries.

Old batteries are hazardous waste and must be disposed of through a suitable collection centre in accordance with legislation. Never dispose of old batteries in the household waste system.

Charging a battery creates a highly explosive oxyhydrogen gas mixture. Always work in well ventilated, suitable rooms.

Electrolyte acid is highly corrosive, so protective gloves and eye protection must be worn. The battery must not be tilted, as acid could leak from the vents. If electrolyte leaks, it can cause skin burns and damage the vehicle, and leaked acid should be treated immediately with an acid neutraliser or soap solution.

Untrained personnel, such as apprentices, may only work on batteries when supervised by a qualified mechanic or electrician.

It is essential to first check the external condition of the battery and its terminals to ensure it is seated securely before performing more extensive tests.

Check the battery housing for damage, as electrolyte can leak if the housing is damaged. If battery acid leaks out, it can cause serious damage to the vehicle and should be treated immediately with an acid neutraliser or a soap solution.

Check the battery terminals for damage. If terminals are damaged, the contact at the terminal clamps cannot be guaranteed. Ensure clamps are tightened to the specified torque. If clamps are not correctly seated and tightened, the wiring could burn, leading to electrical system malfunctions.

Check that the battery is securely seated. If necessary, tighten the securing bolt to the specified torque to prevent damage caused by vibrations or a loose clamping bracket.

The magic eye provides information concerning the battery status. Before performing a visual check, tap the magic eye lightly with a screwdriver handle to dissipate any air bubbles that may falsify the reading.

For a 3-colour magic eye (up to 03/08):

Green: Battery is charged sufficiently.

Black: Battery is partly discharged (less than 65%) or completely discharged.

Colourless/light yellow: Battery must be renewed. Do not test or charge batteries with this colour; do not slave or jump start the vehicle.

For a 2-colour magic eye (from 04/08 onwards):

Black: Electrolyte level OK.

Colourless/light yellow: Electrolyte level too low; the battery must be renewed. Do not test or charge these batteries; do not slave or jump start the vehicle.

To prevent damage to terminal clamps and battery terminals, observe the following:

Terminal clamps should only be fitted by hand and without using force.

Battery terminals should not be coated with grease.

Clamps should be fitted so the battery terminal is either flush with the clamp or protruding from it.

Once the clamps are tightened to the specified torque, the threaded connections should not be tightened any further.

The current draw test helps ascertain the condition of a discharged battery and whether it needs replacing or can be recharged.

1. Ensure the correct charging mode is set on the battery charger.

2. Connect the battery to the charger and start the charging process.

3. Measure the charge current after 5 minutes.

The charge current must be more than 10% of the nominal capacity 5 minutes after starting the charging sequence. For example, for a 60 Ah battery, the current must be higher than 6 A.

If the current is higher than 10%, fully charge the battery and perform a load test after allowing the battery to rest for two hours.

If the current is below 10% after 5 minutes, the battery must be renewed.

The no-load voltage test is used to assess the condition of batteries on stock and stored vehicles. The battery must not have been charged or discharged within the last 2 days.

Use a hand-held multimeter to check the voltage:

If the no-load voltage is greater than or equal to 12.5 V, the voltage is OK.

If the no-load voltage is less than 12.5 V, the battery must be charged.

A reading of 11.60 V indicates a heavily discharged battery with no capacity.

Smooth pipes with a diameter of 5×1 mm or 6×1 mm can be repaired with an EPDM hose.

1. Cut the damaged section at a right angle out of the pipe.

2. Select the appropriate EPDM hose and cable ties.

3. Cut the EPDM hose to size so that the pipe ends can be inserted approximately 10 mm into the EPDM hose.

4. Secure the repair joints with cable ties.

1. Cut the damaged section at a right angle out of the corrugated pipe.

2. Select the appropriate connectors and heat-shrink hose.

3. Heat the end of the corrugated pipe using a hot air blower.

4. Push the connector into the corrugated pipe.

5. Cut the heat-shrink hose so that the ends of the corrugated pipe are covered by about 20 mm on each side.

6. Push the heat-shrink hose over the corrugated pipe, join the connectors, and secure the repair joints with the heat-shrink hose.

Note: Repair points must not be subjected to pulling or bending forces. If the damaged section is longer than 20 mm, a new piece of pipe must be used.

Before working on parts of gas discharge headlights marked with yellow high-voltage symbols, you must disconnect the battery. Then, switch the dipped beam on and off to eliminate any residual voltage.

The gas discharge bulb must only be operated in the headlight housing to protect against heat, UV radiation, and explosion. The glass envelope can be very hot and is under pressure; do not touch it with bare fingers, use a clean cloth glove. Always wear safety goggles and gloves when removing and installing bulbs. Avoid looking directly into the light beam as the UV rays are about 2.5 times greater than normal halogen bulbs.

Never change gas discharge bulbs if you are not familiar with the safety precautions and procedures. The control unit for light systems conducts lethally high voltage; only operate the control unit and starter unit with the bulb fitted.

If excessive force is exerted on sockets without a bulb for socket illumination, the retaining sleeve may be damaged. Puller T40148 can only be used for removing sockets that have a bulb for socket illumination. Usually, sockets without a bulb for socket illumination cannot be removed without damaging them.

1. Remove the cigarette lighter or dummy plug from the socket.

2. Push puller T40148 into the socket so that the locking lugs engage in the recesses.

3. Pull the grip in the direction of the arrow to release the locking lugs of the retaining sleeve.

4. Pull the socket out of the retaining sleeve using the puller. Take care not to stretch the wiring.

5. Disconnect the connector from the socket.

1. Remove the socket.

2. Press the retaining lugs in the direction of the arrow and remove the retaining sleeve together with the bulb carrier.

3. Unclip the bulb carrier from the retaining sleeve.

4. Separate the bulb carrier in the indicated areas and open the part to access the bulb.

5. Remove the light bulb in the direction of the arrow.

Note: With some equipment, the bulb is an LED permanently attached to the retaining sleeve and cannot be renewed separately. In some versions, the bulb carrier must be replaced together with the light bulb.

Observe the following rules when repairing wiring harnesses:

Soldering is not permitted for repairs to vehicle wiring.

Wiring harness and connector repairs may only be carried out using the approved wiring harness repair set.

Only use yellow wires for repairs.

Wiring harness repairs must not be integrated into the vehicle’s own wiring harness and must be marked with the use of yellow adhesive tape. Yellow wires or sections wrapped with yellow insulating tape indicate a previous repair.

Crimp connectors may never be repaired; lay wiring parallel to the defective wiring.

After crimping, crimp connectors must be shrink-fitted using the approved hot air blower to prevent moisture ingress.

Screened wires must not be repaired and must be replaced completely if damaged.

1. Place the wire to be repaired to the side at two points (about 20 cm to both sides of the repair position) and unbind the wiring harness if necessary.

2. Cut out the damaged piece of wiring using the wire strippers.

3. Strip the wire ends of insulation by 6 to 7 mm using the wire strippers.

4. Push the crimp connector on both stripped wire ends and crimp it on using the crimping pliers.

5. Ensure the correct crimp recess is chosen for the crimp connectors being used. The insulation on the wires must not be crimped.

6. Place the shrink element on the hot air blower and heat up the crimp connector along a straight line, working from the middle outwards, until it is sealed completely and adhesive escapes from the ends.

Faulty repairs to the airbag and seat belt tensioning system can cause malfunctions. Only use contacts, connectors, and wiring designed specifically for this purpose.

A maximum of two positions may be repaired in the airbag and belt tensioner system wiring. More repairs increase resistance, which can trigger faults in the self-diagnosis.

Repairs should not be more than 30 cm from the next contact housing.

In series production, wires leading to trip units (airbags) are twisted with a length of lay of 20 mm ±5 mm. When repairing sections of twisted wires, this must be adhered to under all circumstances. During repairs, the wiring to trip units must have the same length. Ensure no part of the wiring, including the vicinity of crimp connectors, is longer than 100 mm without the wires being twisted.

An unshielded two-wire line with a cross-section of 0.35 mm² or 0.5 mm² is used for CAN bus wiring.

Repairs can be carried out with sections of repair wiring with the correct cross-section or with entwined wires from the replacement parts catalogue.

When repairs are performed, both bus wires must have the same length. When twisting the wires together, the length of each complete twist must be A = 20 mm.

Ensure no part of the wiring, including the vicinity of crimp connectors, is longer than 50 mm without the wires being twisted.

Mark the area of repair with yellow insulation tape.

Aerial wires must not be repaired. If a repair is required, they must be replaced only by connecting wires and adapter cables offered as genuine parts.

1. Pull defective aerial wire connections off the units.

2. Determine the routing of the defective aerial wire and measure the total length of the aerial connecting wire to be replaced.

3. The total length of the aerial connecting wire is the sum of the required adapter cables and the connecting wire.

4. To determine the length of the connecting wire required, subtract 60 cm from the measured total length.

5. Procure the required adapter cables and connecting wire at the length calculated.

6. Cut off the connectors of the defective aerial wire.

7. Connect the adapter cables to the equipment in the vehicle, route and attach the connection line, and connect the connecting wire to the adapter cables.

Note: Do not kink or bend aerial wires; the bending radius must not be below 50 mm.

1. Disconnect the battery.

2. Loosen the cap nut and remove the ring terminal from the threaded connection.

3. Check the ring terminal for corrosion and dirt.

4. Select a suitable adapter and a suitable sanding pad.

5. Insert the adapter into the ring terminal and grind off corrosion and dirt with circular movements. Perform the cleaning process step by step and perform a visual check between steps to ensure you do not abrade the tin coating excessively; if copper appears, it could create a galvanic cell.

6. Remove any punching burr using a deburrer.

7. Tighten the ring terminal to the specified torque. Optimum contact is ensured when components are tightened to the specified torque after cleaning.

8. Apply suitable anti-corrosion treatment and reconnect the battery.

Note: The use of penetrating fluid, contact spray, or grease is prohibited.

1. Disconnect the battery.

2. Check the battery terminal clamp and battery terminal for corrosion and dirt.

3. Clean the battery clamp using the wire brush of the battery terminal cleaner with circular movements.

4. Clean the battery terminal using the underside of the battery terminal cleaner with circular movements.

5. Reconnect the battery and ensure the components are tightened to the specified torque.

1. Hold the injector below the ring terminal and spray the pin all around.

2. Hold the injector above the ring terminal and spray the pin and wiring eye all around.

Note: Always use the hose supplied with the anticorrosive agent. Use protection wax for cold areas and cavity sealing agent for warm areas. The sealing agent independently reaches the respective points through capillary action.