VOLKSWAGEN EOS 2006 (03) PDF Document

To ensure long use of the battery in your VOLKSWAGEN EOS 2006, it must be checked, serviced, and maintained according to the specifications in the manual. Apart from supplying energy for starting the engine, the battery has other tasks: it acts as a buffer and supplies electrical energy to the complete electrical onboard supply of the vehicle.

When handling the battery of your VOLKSWAGEN EOS 2006, observe the following safety regulations and warnings:

Dangers:

• Untrained personnel (e.g., apprentices) should only work on batteries under the supervision of a qualified mechanic or electrician.

• Battery acid is highly corrosive. In case of acid burns, use a neutralizing solution like soap solution immediately.

• Leaking electrolyte can cause skin burns and corrosion on the vehicle, potentially damaging safety-relevant components.

• Gas formed during charging is explosive. Mishandling the battery can lead to an explosion.

• Batteries with a colorless or light yellow magic eye must be renewed. Do not check, charge, or jump-start them due to explosion risk.

• It is prohibited to cause sparks (from grinding, welding, naked lights) or to smoke near batteries. Avoid electrostatic discharge by touching the vehicle body before touching the battery.

• Only work on batteries in well-ventilated and suitable rooms.

Safety Markings on Battery:

1. Fires and Sparks: Fires, sparks, naked flames, and smoking are prohibited. Avoid sparks and short circuits. Never lay a tool on a battery.

2. Eye Protection: Always wear eye protection when working on a battery.

3. Children: Keep children away from acid and batteries.

4. Disposal: Old batteries are hazardous waste and must be disposed of at a suitable collection center according to legislation.

5. Household Waste: Never dispose of old batteries in the household waste system.

6. Explosion Danger: A highly explosive gas is produced when batteries are charged.

7. Instructions: Always follow instructions on the battery and in the owner’s manual.

8. Caustic Acid: Battery acid is very caustic. Wear eye protection and gloves. Do not tilt the battery, as acid can leak from vents.

To prevent damage to the battery clamps and terminals on your VOLKSWAGEN EOS 2006, follow these steps:

• The battery clamps should only be fitted by hand and without using force.

• Battery terminals should not be coated with grease.

• The battery clamps should be fitted so that the battery terminal is either flush with the clamp or protruding from it.

• Once the battery clamps have been tightened to the specified torque, the threaded connections should not be tightened any further.

To check a battery with a magic eye on your VOLKSWAGEN EOS 2006, carry out the procedure in the following sequence:

1. Perform a visual check of the battery’s external condition, terminals, and attachment.

2. Check the color display of the magic eye. Before checking, tap the magic eye lightly with a screwdriver handle to dissipate any air bubbles that could distort the color.

For a “3-colour” magic eye:

• Green: Battery is sufficiently charged.

• Black: Battery is partly discharged (charge state < 65%) or completely discharged.

• Colourless or light yellow: Battery must be renewed. Do not check, charge, or jump-start the vehicle. There is a danger of explosion.

For a “2-colour” magic eye:

• Black: Electrolyte level is OK.

• Colourless or light yellow: Electrolyte level is too low. The battery must be renewed. Do not check, charge, or jump-start the vehicle. There is a danger of explosion.

3. Perform a battery load test using a battery tester like VAS 5097 A or VAS 6161 for an exact determination of the battery’s condition.

4. Depending on the test result, you may need to perform a current draw test.

AGM batteries in a VOLKSWAGEN EOS 2006 are maintenance-free and do not have a magic eye. To check an AGM battery, follow this sequence:

1. Perform a visual check. Inspect for any damage to the battery housing and terminals. Ensure the battery is securely fastened.

2. Perform a battery load test using a suitable battery tester, such as the VAS 5097 A or VAS 6161.

3. Depending on the result of the battery test, it may be necessary to perform a current draw test.

To perform a battery load test on your VOLKSWAGEN EOS 2006 with the VAS 5097 A tester, follow these steps. The battery does not need to be removed or disconnected.

1. Ensure the battery has a temperature of at least 10 °C.

2. Switch off the ignition and all electrical consumers.

3. Check the low-temperature test current in amperes (A) according to DIN from the indications on the battery. If values are in IEC or EN/SAE, use the conversion table.

4. Select the low-temperature test current on the tester using the selection switch.

5. Select the appropriate measuring range (80-379 A or 380-499 A) with the ON/OFF and functions switch.

6. Connect the red terminal “+” of the tester to the positive battery terminal.

7. Connect the black terminal “-” of the tester to the negative battery terminal. Ensure a good contact.

8. Select the connection point (directly to battery or external test points) with the selection switch.

9. Press the start test button. The green LED will light up, and the test will run automatically for about 20 seconds.

10. The test result will be printed out. If the unit does not start, the battery needs to be recharged.

11. Switch off the unit and remove the test terminals.

Note: Perform the test only once. Repeating the test immediately can falsify the result. The tester needs about 30 minutes to cool down before the next test.

The following table can be used to convert cold cranking current values:

After performing a battery load test with the VAS 5097 A tester, assess the printed results as follows:

Because of the high load during the test, the battery voltage drops. An OK battery’s voltage drops only to the minimum voltage, while a defective or low-charge battery’s voltage drops quickly below the minimum and recovers very slowly.

To perform a battery test with the VAS 6161 tester, which does not load the battery, follow these steps:

Performing the Test:

1. Switch off the ignition and all electrical consumers.

2. If applicable, check the magic eye on the battery.

3. Switch on the VAS 6161 unit.

4. Connect the red terminal “+” to the positive terminal and the black terminal “-” to the negative terminal. Ensure a good contact.

5. Select one of the functions: Maintenance test, Service test, or Guarantee test.

• Maintenance Test: Select “Maintenance test,” scan the vehicle ID number, select “On battery terminal” or “On jump-start point,” scan the battery barcode or select type manually, measure temperature, and start the test.

• Service Test: Select “Service test,” select “On battery terminal” or “On jump-start point,” select vehicle type, measure temperature, select battery type and norm (CCA, DIN, etc.), and start the test.

• Guarantee Test: Select “Guarantee test,” select “In vehicle” or “Outside vehicle,” select connection point, select vehicle type, measure temperature, select battery type or scan it, select battery capacity or scan it, and start the test.

The test completes in about 10 seconds, and the result is printed. No cooling phase is needed between tests.

Assessing the Test Results:

A current draw test is performed to quickly determine the state of a discharged battery and whether it must be replaced or can be fully recharged. This test is necessary when the result of a previous battery test (e.g., with VAS 5097A or VAS 6161) indicates “Perform current draw test,” “Starting output sufficient,” “poor,” or “very poor.”

Test Requirements:

• Battery temperature must be at least +10 °C.

• The charger must be capable of a charge current of at least 30 A (e.g., VAS 5095A, VAS 5900, VAS 5903).

• A current pick-up clamp (e.g., VAS 5051B/7) is needed if the charger doesn’t display the current draw.

Procedure:

1. Connect the battery to a suitable battery charger.

2. Start the charging sequence.

3. Measure the charging current of the battery after 5 minutes.

Test Result:

• If the current draw (A) is higher than 10% of the nominal capacity (Ah) (e.g., > 6.1 A for a 61 Ah battery), fully charge the battery and test it again after a two-hour rest period.

• For the VOLKSWAGEN EOS 2006 with two 6V AGM batteries, the charge current must be higher than 5% of the nominal capacity (e.g., > 2.5 A for a 50 Ah battery).

• If the charge current is below 10% (or 5% for Eos) of the nominal capacity after 5 minutes, the battery must be renewed.

This test is used to assess the battery’s condition on stock or stored vehicles during maintenance to determine if recharging is needed.

Test Conditions:

• The battery must not have been charged or discharged within the last 2 days.

Procedure:

• Check the battery’s no-load voltage with a hand multimeter (e.g., V.A.G 1526 B).

Assessing the Results:

A no-load voltage of 11.60 V corresponds to a 0% charge, indicating a discharged battery.

To charge the battery using the VAS 5095 A, which can be done with the battery installed in the vehicle:

1. Ensure the battery temperature is at least 10 °C.

2. Switch off the ignition and all electrical consumers.

3. On the base of the charger, set the battery type switch (item 9) to 2.4 V/C (volts/battery cell). This applies to all batteries.

4. Connect the red terminal clamp “+” of the charger to the positive terminal on the battery.

5. Connect the black terminal clamp “-” of the battery charger to the negative terminal on the battery. (Note: For vehicles with a start/stop function and battery monitor control unit, the black clamp must be connected to body earth to avoid system malfunctions).

6. Switch on the battery charger using the ON/OFF switch (item 1).

• The yellow charging current indicators (items 2 and 3) will light up. When only indicator 3 is lit, the battery is approx. 90% charged.

• When the green “maintaining charge” LED (item 4) lights up, the battery is fully charged.

7. Switch off the charging unit.

8. Remove the charger unit terminals from the battery terminals.

For totally discharged batteries (voltage must be at least 0.6 V), the charger automatically initiates a gentle charging procedure with a low current.

The cruise control system (CCS) functions are controlled by the engine control unit. To activate or deactivate it using a vehicle diagnostic tester, follow these steps:

1. Connect the vehicle diagnostic tester to your VOLKSWAGEN EOS 2006.

2. Select “Guided fault finding” mode in the diagnostic tester.

3. Using the “GoTo” button, select “Functions/component” and navigate through the following menu options in succession:

• Drive

• Engine code

• 01 – On Board Diagnostic capable systems

• Engine management/diesel direct injection and glow plug system

• Functions

• Activating and deactivating cruise control system (CCS)

Your VOLKSWAGEN EOS 2006 uses several types of hose couplings for the washer systems. Here is how to handle them:

Type 1 (Simple Push-Fit):

• To loosen: Pull the two coupling sections apart (no securing device).

• To secure: Push the two sections together until you hear and feel them engage.

Type 2 (Rotating Lock Ring):

• To loosen: Rotate the lock ring -1- through 90° and pull off the hose connection.

• To secure: Push on the hose connection and rotate the lock ring -1- until it engages.

Type 3 (Pull-Up Lock Ring):

• To loosen: Pull up the lock ring -1- by approx. 1 mm and pull off the hose connection.

• To secure: Attach the hose connection and press in the clip -1- until it engages.

Headlight Washer System Coupling:

• To loosen: Push the lock ring -1- and pull off the hose connection.

• To secure: Push and hold the lock ring, then push on the hose connection. Check that the clip has engaged correctly by trying to pull it off without the clip being depressed.

To repair a damaged section of a smooth washer pipe (5×1 mm or 6×1 mm diameter) on your VOLKSWAGEN EOS 2006, follow these steps:

1. Cut the damaged section out of the smooth pipe at right angles.

2. Select the appropriate EPDM hose (item -2-) and cable ties from the electronic parts catalogue (ETKA).

3. Cut the EPDM hose -2- to a length that allows the ends of the smooth pipe (items -1- and -3-) to be pushed about 10 mm into each side of the EPDM hose.

4. Secure both repair joints with cable ties (item -1-).

To repair a corrugated washer hose, you will need a hot air blower and specific repair parts. Note that repair points must not be subjected to pulling or bending forces.

1. Cut the damaged section at right angles out of the corrugated pipe.

2. Select suitable end pieces (-2- and -3-) and the correct sized heat-shrink piping from the electronic parts catalogue (ETKA).

3. Heat one end of the corrugated pipe (-1-).

4. Push connector -2- into the heated pipe end (-1-).

5. Heat the other end of the corrugated pipe (-4-).

6. Push connector -3- into the heated pipe end (-4-).

7. Cut the heat-shrink hose so that the ends of the corrugated pipe are each covered by about 20 mm.

8. Push the heat-shrink hose over the corrugated pipe, join the connectors, and secure the repair joints with the heat-shrink hose using the hot air blower.

Working on gas discharge headlights involves lethally high voltages and other hazards. Always observe the following safety procedures:

High Voltage:

• It is absolutely necessary to disconnect the battery earth strap before working on any parts marked with yellow high-voltage symbols.

• After disconnecting the battery, switch the dipped beam on and off again to eliminate any possible residual voltage.

• Ensure there is no voltage in any components before proceeding.

• Never operate the gas discharge lamp control unit without a gas discharge lamp installed.

Pressure, Temperature, and Radiation:

• Gas discharge bulbs (xenon and bi-xenon) are under pressure and can explode if mishandled, causing injury. Always wear protective goggles and gloves.

• The bulbs must only be operated inside the headlight housing to protect against contact with very hot surfaces and UV radiation.

• The glass of the bulbs can become very hot, posing a burn risk.

• Avoid looking directly into the light beam due to high UV radiation and the danger of glare, which can impair vision.

Repair and Disposal:

• Do not touch the bulb glass with bare fingers; use clean cloth gloves to prevent oil from impairing brightness.

• Always replace a bulb with one of the same type.

• Gas discharge bulbs contain mercury (Hg) and must be disposed of as hazardous waste at an authorized collection point, not in conventional waste.

Caution: Only illuminated sockets (cigarette lighter) can be removed with the puller T 40148. Sockets without illumination usually cannot be removed without being damaged.

Required Tools:

• Puller -T 40148-

Removing the Socket:

1. Remove the cigarette lighter or dummy plug from the socket, if present.

2. Push the puller into the socket so that its locking lugs (-1-) engage in the recesses (-2-) of the socket.

3. Pull the grip (-3-) of the puller to release the locking lugs of the retaining sleeve.

4. Pull the socket out of the retaining sleeve using the puller. Take care not to stretch the wiring.

5. Pull off the socket connector.

6. To remove the puller from the socket, press the spindle (-1-) in the direction of arrow B, then turn the puller (-2-) briefly to the left (arrow A) to release it.

Installing the Socket:

• Installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal. After removing the socket with the puller, you must carefully press the socket’s retaining springs together and check that the cigarette lighter remains in its removal position after the heating phase to prevent it from being ejected.

Note: On some vehicles, illumination is provided by an LED that is permanently attached and cannot be renewed separately. This procedure applies only to versions with a replaceable light bulb.

Removing the Bulb (L28):

1. Remove the cigarette lighter socket first.

2. Press the retaining lugs (-arrows-) and remove the retaining sleeve together with the bulb carrier.

3. Unclip the bulb carrier from the retaining sleeve.

4. Separate the bulb carrier in areas -A- and -B-.

5. Open part -B- of the bulb carrier.

6. Remove the light bulb in the direction of the arrow.

Installing the Bulb:

• Installation is carried out in the reverse order of removal.

To connect a vehicle diagnostic tester like the VAS 5051 to your VOLKSWAGEN EOS 2006, follow these steps:

1. Apply the handbrake.

2. For vehicles with an automatic gearbox, move the selector lever to position “P” or “N”. For manual gearboxes, move the gearstick to the neutral position.

3. Switch off the ignition.

4. Connect the vehicle diagnostic tester using the appropriate diagnostic cable (e.g., VAS 5051/6A) to the diagnostic interface (connector) in the vehicle. The interface is typically located in the driver’s side footwell.

5. Switch on the ignition.

6. Switch off all electrical consumers before starting the diagnosis.

Note: Only use diagnostic cables specified for CAN diagnosis (e.g., VAS 5051/5A, VAS 5051/6A) as they are fitted with the necessary CAN wiring.

When performing repairs on the vehicle electrical system and wiring harnesses, it is crucial to follow these guidelines to ensure safety and quality:

• Always disconnect the battery earth strap before working on the electrical system.

• Identify and rectify the root cause of the damage (e.g., sharp edges, corrosion) before starting the repair.

• Soldering is not permitted for repairs to vehicle wiring. Use the specified crimp connectors and tools.

• Wiring harness repairs should be done with the wiring harness repair set (e.g., VAS 1978 B). Use yellow wires from the set to indicate a previous repair.

• Crimp connectors must not be repaired. If needed, lay a new wire in parallel. After crimping, connectors must be shrink-fitted with a hot air blower to prevent moisture ingress.

• Special instructions must be followed for repairs to airbag systems, CAN bus lines, and fibre optic cables.

• Screened wires must not be repaired; they must be replaced completely.

• For heat-resistant wiring (found mainly in the engine compartment, identifiable by its matt, soft insulation), only use heat-resistant repair wiring.

• After every repair, perform a function test. It may be necessary to interrogate and erase the fault memory.

Faulty repairs to the airbag and seat belt tensioning system can cause malfunctions in the passenger protection system. In addition to the general rules for wiring repair, the following instructions are mandatory:

• Only use contacts, connectors, and wiring specifically designed for this purpose, available from the Electronic Parts Catalogue (ETKA).

• Use only the wiring harness repair set -VAS 1978 B- (or previous versions) for these repairs.

• A maximum of two positions may be repaired in the wiring for the airbag and belt tensioner system. More repairs can increase resistance and trigger faults.

• Crimp connectors must always be shrink-fitted to prevent corrosion.

• The repaired section should not be integrated back into the main harness and must be marked with yellow insulating tape.

• Repairs should be no more than 30 cm from the next contact housing.

• The wires to the triggering units (airbags) must be entwined with a twine spacing of 20 mm ± 5 mm. This must be adhered to for the repair length.

• During repairs, the wires to the triggering units must have the same length.

• There must not be any section of wiring longer than 100 mm that is not twisted, especially near crimp connectors.

CAN bus wiring is an unshielded two-wire line. For repairs, follow these specific instructions:

• Both bus wires must have the same length when repairs are performed.

• When twisting the two wires (-1- and -2-) together, the length of each complete twist (A) must be 20 mm.

• There must not be any section of wiring longer than 50 mm (B) that is not twisted, for example, in the vicinity of the crimp connectors.

• Mark the area of repair with yellow insulation tape to make it easy to identify.

• The colour codes for CAN bus wiring are:

There are two methods for repairing an open circuit, depending on whether the wire ends are long enough to be joined directly.

Method 1: One Repair Position (Single Crimp Connector)

1. If the damaged wire has been cut out, check if the ends are long enough to be joined.

2. Strip the insulation from the wire ends by 6 – 7 mm using wire strippers.

3. Push a single crimp connector onto both stripped wire ends.

4. Crimp the connector using the correct crimp recess on the crimping pliers. Ensure the insulation is not crimped.

5. After crimping, shrink-fit the connector using a hot air blower, working from the middle outwards until it is completely sealed.

Method 2: Two Repair Positions (Interlinked Wire)

Use this method if the original wire is too short after cutting out the damaged section.

1. Cut the damaged section of wire out of the vehicle’s wiring.

2. Cut a new piece of yellow repair wire to the required length.

3. Strip the ends of the original wire and the new repair wire by 6 – 7 mm.

4. Use two crimp connectors. For the first connection, push one connector onto one end of the vehicle’s wire and one end of the repair wire. Crimp it.

5. Repeat the procedure for the other end of the repair wire and the remaining end of the vehicle’s wire.

6. Shrink-fit both crimp connectors using a hot air blower.

Note: When multiple wires are repaired, stagger the crimp connectors to prevent the harness from becoming too bulky. Wrap the repaired area with yellow insulation tape.

To release individual crimp contacts from their housing without damage, you must use the correct release tools and procedure.

1. Disengage Secondary Lock: If a secondary locking mechanism is present (often a different colored piece like a flap, slide, or toothed element), it must be opened or removed first.

2. Disengage Primary Lock: The primary lock is the mechanism that holds the individual contact in place.

• For Round Connectors: Insert the appropriate release tool into the release port. Gently push the contact by its wire into the housing; this helps lift the locking tabs. At the same time, push the release tool into the housing to disengage the tabs, and then pull the released contact out from the back.

• For Flat Connectors (One or Two Locking Tabs): Insert the correct release tool. Push the contact gently into the housing by its wire. This lifts the locking tab(s) off the housing edge. Push the release tool further to disengage the tabs and pull the contact out.

• For Special Connectors (e.g., Faston, GT 150/280): The principle is similar. Insert the specific release tool for that contact type to disengage the locking tab, which allows the contact to be removed or ejected from the housing.

Important: Always use the correct release tool for the specific contact type. Never use force to pull a contact out of its housing, as this will damage the contact and the housing.

To ensure optimal electrical contact, use the contact surface cleaning set (VAS 6410). Do not use penetrating fluid, contact spray, or grease, as this can lead to incorrect torque and breakage.

Cleaning a Ring Terminal:

1. Disconnect the battery.

2. Loosen the cap nut and remove the ring terminal from the threaded connection.

3. Check the terminal for corrosion and dirt.

4. Select a suitable adapter and sanding pad (grey for light dirt, red for heavy dirt).

5. Insert the adapter into the ring terminal and grind off corrosion with circular movements. Be careful not to abrade the tin coating excessively, as exposing the copper can cause a galvanic reaction and faulty repair.

6. Check the terminal and regrind if necessary.

7. If necessary, remove any punching burr with a deburrer.

Cleaning a Threaded Connection (Post):

1. Follow steps 1-3 from above.

2. Select a suitable adapter and sanding pad for the threaded connection.

3. Set the adapter on the threaded connection and grind off corrosion and dirt with circular movements.

4. Check the connection and regrind if necessary.

After Cleaning:

1. Tighten the ring terminal to the specified torque.

2. Apply a suitable anti-corrosion treatment.

3. Reconnect the battery and re-initialize any systems (windows, radio code, clock) as needed.

Lambda probe wires should not be repaired, only renewed. The procedure differs slightly for 4-pin (LSF) and 6-pin (LSU) probes.

General Steps:

1. Remove the defective Lambda probe.

2. Place the old probe and the new uniform probe next to each other, aligning the sensor housings.

3. Tie back any excess length on the new uniform probe’s cable (approx. 50-250 mm) to match the length of the old probe and secure it with cable ties (-1-).

For 4-pin LSF Lambda Probe:

4. Check if the connector housing of the new probe is compatible with the vehicle’s onboard supply side connector. On older vehicles, it may be necessary to replace the vehicle-side connector with the one supplied with the new probe.

For 6-pin LSU Lambda Probe:

4. Wires should not be crimped or cut, as this will impair the function of the probe.

Final Step for Both:

5. Install the new Lambda probe in the vehicle.

Note: You can identify the type of Lambda probe by the protective tube. Type D1 (6 openings at 3.5 mm) is only for 4-pin LSF probes. Type D2 (6 openings at 2 mm) and Type D4 (12 openings at 1.4 mm) are used on both 4-pin LSF and 6-pin LSU probes.