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How do I select the correct needle for my UNION SPECIAL 200-38 sewing machine?
For your UNION SPECIAL 200-38, you should normally use the shortest needle required to perform a given operation. To determine the proper length:
1. Load the button and material into the sewing area, ready for stitching.
2. Manually rotate the pulley in the operating direction.
3. When the needle is at its lowest position, the shank of the needle should clear the button hole by at least 1/32 inch (0.8 mm).
4. If this condition is not met, a longer needle or one with a shorter shank must be used.
When changing from short to long, to extra long needles, or vice versa, the needle bar height must be re-set as described in the adjusting instructions.
The selection of the proper needle diameter is determined by the size of thread, weight of material, and the type of button used. The following needles are available for Class 200 machines:
| Blade Dia. | Short | Long with Short Shank | Long with Extra Short Shank | Extra Long with Extra Short Shank |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| .036″ | 29S-090/036 | 29LSS-090/036 | — | — |
| .040″ | 29S-100/040 | 29LSS-100/040 | 29LES-100/040 | — |
| .044″ | 29S-110/044 | 29LSS-110/044 | 29LES-110/044 | 29ELS-110/044 |
| .049″ | 29S-125/049 | 29LSS-125/049 | 29LES-125/049 | 29ELS-125/049 |
| .054″ | — | 29LSS-140/054 | — | — |
Unless instructions to the contrary are received, the UNION SPECIAL 200-38 is shipped with a 29S-100/040 needle.
What is the correct way to change the needle on my UNION SPECIAL 200-38?
To change the needle on your UNION SPECIAL 200-38:
1. Make sure the new needle is inserted into the needle bar as far as it will go.
2. The long groove of the needle must face the front, and the spot or scarf must face the rear.
3. Tighten the set screw securely.
4. A cross hole drilled in the needle bar can also be used to determine if the needle has been inserted as far as it will go.
Important: Immediately discard any needle which may have a hooked or blunt point.
How do I install the UNION SPECIAL 200-38 sewing machine and motor?
Installing the Machine:
1. The tableboard is prepared with two sets of mounting holes. Using the rear set of holes will position the front end of the cylinder at the edge of the tableboard. Using the front set of holes extends the end of the cylinder three inches to the front of the tableboard.
2. Determine the desired location for the machine.
3. Assemble the machine to the tableboard using the isolators, bolts, nuts, and washers provided.
Mounting the Motor:
1. Mount the motor hanger to the underside of the tableboard using either the front or rear set of holes that corresponds to the machine’s position. The pulley shaft of the motor should be located directly below the machine pulley.
2. Assemble the motor to the motor hanger and install the motor pulley onto the shaft.
3. Attach the “V” belt and adjust the motor hanger up or down to apply the proper tension on the belt.
4. Assemble the chain from the treadle to the stop motion trip lever of the machine.
What are the threading, lubrication, and speed requirements for the UNION SPECIAL 200-38?
Threading: To thread the machine, put it in the stop position and thread it in accordance with the Threading and Oiling Diagram.
Lubrication:
The UNION SPECIAL 200-38 requires manual lubrication. Oiling twice daily is sufficient for normal operating conditions. Extreme duty cycles may require more frequent oiling. Oil should be applied in the morning before use and again in the afternoon. Apply oil to the oil holes marked in RED on the machine. You may need to remove or open covers for access; refer to the Threading and Oiling Diagram for locations. The oil used should be a good quality straight mineral oil with a Saybolt viscosity of 90 to 125 seconds at 100° Fahrenheit.
Idler Pulley Lubrication: The pulley has a grease reservoir. Access it by removing the plug screw marked “A” on the diagram. Periodically, remove the screw, check the grease level, and replenish if required. For additional tubes of grease, order part No. 28604P.
Machine Speed: The recommended speed for the UNION SPECIAL 200-38 is 1500 R.P.M.
How do I assemble the automatic button feeder for the UNION SPECIAL 200-38?
1. Place the vibrator base onto the isolators in the holes provided in the tableboard. Position the switch and control knob to the left when facing the machine.
2. Assemble the button bowl to the vibrator base using the screw furnished. Position the bowl so that the button unloading opening faces toward the front.
3. Mount the button guide track to the bowl and to the button clamp assembly on the machine.
How do I connect the power supply to the button vibrator on the UNION SPECIAL 200-38?
The button vibrator requires 110 volts.
If a 110 Volt Supply is Available:
If a separate 110 volt supply is convenient, obtain power by adding the proper plug and connecting to the power source.
If a 110 Volt Supply is NOT Available:
To convert the power source from 220/380/440 volts to the required 110 volts, you must use the optional power box assembly No. 29480 RT.
Instructions for Wiring Power Box No. 29480 RT:
1. Mount the power box to the right rear corner of the tableboard in the holes provided.
2. Using the wiring diagram, connect the incoming power leads to the upper three terminals of the power switch.
3. Connect the ground (green) lead to the brass grounding screw.
4. Connect the motor leads to the side tabs of the fuse holders, with the ground to the same brass grounding screw.
5. Refer to the motor wiring diagrams for connecting motor leads.
CAUTION: Do not assemble or remove the cover without disconnecting the electrical supply.
How do I configure the vibrator connections and fuses for different voltages on the UNION SPECIAL 200-38 with Power Box 29480 RT?
First, measure the line voltage. Then, connect the two wires (black and white) from the vibrator to the barrier strip opposite the secondary transformer wires as indicated below:
| Supply Voltage | Secondary Transformer Wires |
|---|---|
| 220 V or less | Brown and Blue |
| 220 V or more | Brown and Yellow |
| 380 V or less | Brown and Blue |
| 380 V or more | Brown and Yellow |
| 440 V or less | Brown and Blue |
| 440 V or more | Brown and Yellow |
Connect the green wire from the vibrator to the brass grounding screw. Connect the sewing light leads to the barrier strip opposite the two red wires from the transformer. Assemble the rubber grommets and attach the cover to the power box.
NOTE: For 380 and 440 Voltage Only
The power box is factory-wired for a 220 volt power supply. For other voltages, the following changes are required:
For 380 volt supply: remove the black/white wire from (F-1) and attach the purple wire (primary 380 V from transformer).
For 440 volt supply: remove the black/white wire from (F-1) and attach the orange wire (primary 440 V from transformer).
Fuses for 220, 380 and 440 Volts
Fuses must be installed according to the power supply. The following chart indicates the proper fuse and its location for the various voltages:
| FUSES | 220 V | 380 V | 440 V |
|---|---|---|---|
| F-1 | 670 F 38 | 670 F 34 | 670 F 34 |
| F-2 | 670 F 38 | 670 F 34 | 670 F 34 |
| F-3 | 670 F 35 | 670 F 40 | 670 F 34 |
How do I operate and adjust the button vibrator bowl on the UNION SPECIAL 200-38?
1. Fill the bowl with buttons. Initially, use the same sample buttons that were submitted when the machine was ordered.
2. Turn the vibrator power switch to the “ON” position.
3. Set the vibrator speed so that buttons feed up the track. Set the initial vibrator speed at 40 to 60 on the calibrated dial.
4. Set the button wiper strips to the correct height so that only one button will pass under at a time.
5. Adjust the width of the button track by turning the thumbscrew until buttons that are wrong side up will drop off the track. The pass-through point must be set up from the track to allow buttons to pass.
6. Buttons should enter the upper guide track one at a time. If the opening is too wide, buttons will jam. Turn the adjustment screw to correct this.
How do I check the button alignment on my UNION SPECIAL 200-38?
First, check that the button holes are located from left to right, approximately parallel with the end of the cylinder. To do this, remove the needle and cycle the machine several times. Note the position of the holes and be certain that a needle will penetrate the holes without striking the button.
To check alignment further, use the following procedure:
1. TURN MAIN POWER OFF.
2. Put a new needle in the needle bar, ensuring it is all the way up with the scarf of the needle to the rear.
3. Engage the machine into the run position and rotate the machine pulley in the operating direction, watching the needle as it penetrates each button hole.
4. If the needle strikes the button or does not penetrate the center of the hole, further clamp adjustment is required under “BUTTON ALIGNMENT” in the machine adjusting instructions section.
How do I adjust the clutch on my UNION SPECIAL 200-38 sewing machine?
CAUTION: The main power switch must be in the “OFF” position while making adjustments.
Check:
The machine should be in the STOP POSITION. Push the idler pulley in so that it contacts the clutch. There should be 1/32 inch (0.8 mm) clearance between the ball (A) and lever (B) as shown in the diagram.
Procedure:
Loosen locknut (C) and turn screw (D) inward for more clearance or outward for less. After adjustment, tighten locknut (C).
How do I adjust the stop motion plunger on my UNION SPECIAL 200-38?
CAUTION: The main power switch must be in the “OFF” position while making adjustments.
Check:
With the machine in STOP POSITION, the plunger head (E) should extend 3/8 inch (9.5 mm) from the bracket (F) as shown in the diagram.
Procedure:
Loosen locknut (G) and turn the adjusting nut (H) to obtain the correct dimension. Once set, tighten locknut (G).
What is the adjustment procedure for the stop motion pawl and latch on the UNION SPECIAL 200-38?
CAUTION: The main power switch must be in the “OFF” position while making adjustments.
Check:
1. Depress the treadle to engage the machine into RUN POSITION.
2. Rotate the pulley two complete revolutions in the operating direction, then release the treadle.
3. Measure the distance from the plunger head (A) to the upper edge of the vertical face on the clutch disc (B). This distance should be 1/4 inch (6.3 mm).
Procedure:
1. Loosen the clamp screw (A, Fig. 19) for the stop motion trip lever.
2. Hold the lever down firmly so that its roller (B) is against the cam.
3. Move the plunger (A, Fig. 18) up or down to achieve the correct 1/4 inch dimension.
4. Tighten the clamp screw (A, Fig. 19) securely.
NOTE: Maintain thrust on the shaft so that both the plunger assembly and the stop motion trip lever are against the bed casting without any end play. After this adjustment is completed, it is necessary to re-check the clutch setting.
How do I adjust the Stop Motion Cam (Inner Cam) on the UNION SPECIAL 200-38?
CAUTION: The main power switch must be in the “OFF” position while making adjustments.
Check:
1. The machine should be in STOP POSITION.
2. Rotate the stop motion disc in the reverse direction so that the vertical face moves away from the plunger head, approximately 1/4 revolution.
3. Stop at a point where the plunger head is located at the edge of the cut-out for the pawl. The plunger head should now be in contact with the stop motion disc.
4. The right stop motion cam (D, Fig. 19) should be positioned so that the front of the recess on the cam is touching the roller at point (C).
Procedure:
1. Loosen set screws (E, Fig. 19).
2. With the plunger head positioned as described in the “Check” step, rotate the cam in the operating direction so the front edge of the recess contacts the roller.
3. Tighten screws (E).
How do I adjust the Soft Stop Cam (Outer Cam) to reduce noise on my UNION SPECIAL 200-38?
CAUTION: The main power switch must be in the “OFF” position while making adjustments.
Check:
The machine should be in STOP POSITION. The soft stop cam (F, Fig. 19) is factory-set so the roller drops into the recess at the earliest possible time relative to the inner stop motion cam. If the impact noise of the machine stopping increases after considerable use, the soft stop cam requires adjustment.
Procedure:
1. Loosen screws (E, Fig. 19) and screw (G).
2. Slightly advance the outer cam (F) by rotating it clockwise.
3. Tighten screw (G).
4. Now repeat the stop motion cam (inner cam) adjustments described earlier.
NOTE: It may be necessary to repeat this procedure until the impact noise is minimized.
How do I correctly set the clamp drive cams on the UNION SPECIAL 200-38?
CAUTION: The main power switch must be in the “OFF” position while making adjustments.
Check:
The machine must be in STOP POSITION. For reference, at this time the needle bar should have reached the top of its stroke and descended approximately 1/4 inch (6.3 mm). To complete this check, it is necessary to lay the upper machine section on its side. Remove the belt, loosen the knurled thumbscrew (K, Fig. 17) and tilt the machine. On Style 200-38, remove the button chute before tilting.
The clamp drive cams (A, Fig. 21) are set properly when the white timing marks on both cams align with the timing pins in the bed at points (B) and (C).
Procedure:
1. Engage the machine into RUN POSITION by pressing down firmly on the rear of the stop motion plunger assembly and rotate the pulley three complete revolutions in the operating direction.
2. The second set of screws for the cams should now be accessible. Loosen both set screws.
3. Rotate the pulley in the reverse direction until the machine again rests in STOP POSITION.
4. Loosen the remaining set screws for both cams (D, Fig. 21) and align the timing marks on the cams to the timing pins in the machine bed. Tighten both screws (D).
5. Again, engage the machine into RUN POSITION and rotate the pulley three revolutions until the second set of screws are accessible. Tighten these screws and return the machine to STOP POSITION by rotating the pulley in the reverse direction.
What is the procedure for adjusting the needle bar height on the UNION SPECIAL 200-38?
CAUTION: The main power switch must be in the “OFF” position while making adjustments.
Check:
1. Engage the machine into RUN POSITION and rotate the pulley two complete revolutions in the operating direction.
2. Stop with the needle bar in its lowest position.
3. The upper line of a pair of timing lines should be even with the lower edge of the needle bar bushing (A, Fig. 24).
4. The pair of timing lines used must correspond to the length of the needle used, as follows:
SHORT NEEDLE: UPPER PAIR OF LINES
LONG NEEDLE: MIDDLE PAIR OF LINES
EXTRA LONG NEEDLE: LOWER PAIR OF LINES
Procedure:
1. Loosen clamp screws (B) and (C).
2. Move the needle bar up or down to align the correct timing line with the bushing as explained above.
3. Tighten screws securely.
4. The needle bar thread guide should rest against the needle bar clamp. With the needle bar at its highest position, the needle clamp screw (D) must clear the slot in the bushing.
NOTE: The height of the bushing is set to a gauge at the factory. The bottom edge is located 3 1/2 inches (88.9 mm) from the machined surface of the cylinder base.
How do I adjust the automatic thread tension on my UNION SPECIAL 200-38?
CAUTION: The main power switch must be in the “OFF” position while making adjustments.
The automatic thread tension controls how tight the stitch is pulled up on the underside of the fabric.
Check:
1. Turn the tension nut (A, Fig. 29) down four or five turns.
2. The automatic tension should release the thread when the needle bar, on its upstroke, has risen so that the lower edge of its beveled top is at DIMENSION “X” above the upper needle bar bushing. DIMENSION “X” is determined by the length of the needle used as follows:
| NEEDLES USED | DIMENSION “X” |
|---|---|
| Short | 1 5/16 inch (33.3 mm) |
| Long | 1 11/16 inch (42.8 mm) |
| Extra Long | 1 7/8 inch (47.6 mm) |
Procedure:
1. Rotate the pulley in the operating direction so that the needle bar has risen to correspond to the proper DIMENSION “X”.
2. Loosen the two hexagonal head screws (B, Fig. 29) in the needle lever hub.
3. Rotate the shaft (H, Fig. 28) until the upper tension disc begins to rise.
4. Tighten screws (B, Fig. 29).
NOTE: This is an extremely important adjustment and should be re-checked. If large loops exist on the underside of the fabric, apply more tension by turning nut (A, Fig. 29) down.
How do I adjust the thread trimming knives on the UNION SPECIAL 200-38?
CAUTION: The main power switch must be in the “OFF” position while making adjustments.
Check:
1. With the needle threaded and a button and fabric in place, engage the machine into RUN POSITION.
2. Rotate the pulley in the operating direction until, on the last needle penetration before STOP POSITION, the clamp lift rod starts to move.
3. Tilt the machine on its side, continue rotating the pulley, and observe the knife movement.
4. The thread separator (A, Fig. 30) must push the front thread of the loop forward so the knives do not touch it. The scissor action of the knives should sever the rear thread only.
Procedure:
1. To move the thread separator (A, Fig. 30), loosen screw (B).
2. The knives can be positioned to the rear thread by loosening screw (C, Fig. 30) and moving the knives to the front or rear as required. Tighten screw (C).
3. The lateral position of the knives relative to the thread may be adjusted by loosening screws (A, Fig. 31) and moving the arm (B). Tighten screws (A).
4. Further lateral adjustment can be obtained by loosening screws (C, Fig. 31) and moving link (D) in the slot. To increase or decrease the distance the knife travels, loosen locknut (E, Fig. 31) and position the stud up or down in the slot. Moving the stud down increases travel.
NOTE: On Style 200-38, do not disturb the orienting pin lifting lever when making this adjustment.
How do I set up the UNION SPECIAL 200-38 for sewing two or four hole buttons?
For Two Hole Buttons:
1. Measure the distance between the two holes of the button (from center to center).
2. Set the indicator (A, Fig. 32) to the corresponding dimension on the graduated scale by loosening nut (B).
3. Move the selector lever (A, Fig. 33) at the rear of the machine to the two hole position (B).
For Four Hole Buttons:
Repeat the procedure for two hole buttons, but move the selector lever (A, Fig. 33) at the rear of the machine to a dimension on the graduated scale that corresponds to the distance between the button holes.
NOTE: The stitch can be tightened on buttons with large holes by decreasing the lateral clamp travel. Set indicator (A, Fig. 32) to a smaller dimension on the graduated scale.
Final Alignment:
1. Place a button into the button holder so that the button holes correspond to the needle travel across the arm.
2. Engage the machine into RUN POSITION and rotate the pulley until the needle has penetrated all the holes in the button. The needle should enter the center of each hole.
3. The button clamp may be shifted slightly to obtain this condition by loosening screws (E, Fig. 34) on the 200-38. It may also be necessary to deviate slightly from the graduated scale dimensions previously used. Refer to adjustments under BUTTON ALIGNMENT for further instructions.
How do I perform adjustments on the button feeding components of the UNION SPECIAL 200-38?
The following adjustments are for the automatic button feeding components for Style 200-38. Unless specified otherwise, all Checks and Procedures are performed with the machine in STOP POSITION.
Thread Wiper:
Check: In STOP POSITION with clamp raised, the bracket should be 1/16 inch (1.6 mm) from the casting. Drive rod, viewed from the front, should be positioned so the angled portion is vertical. With clamp down and wiper to the right of the needle, the wiper wire at the bend should be 1/2 inch (12.7 mm) to the right of the needle and 1/2 inch (12.7 mm) above the top cover.
Procedure: Loosen screws to position the bracket. Move the drive rod by loosening screws. With the clamp down, position the wiper wire by loosening its screw.
Button Holder Springs:
Check: Springs are set correctly when there is enough tension to hold the button in position as the holder rotates, yet allows for easy loading and removal.
Procedure: Loosen the hex head bolt and remove the holder. Loosen the screw in the top cover. Insert three buttons. Apply more or less spring pressure by slightly rotating the top cover while holding the bottom portion. Tighten the screw and reassemble.
Button Guiding Cam:
Check: With a button properly seated, the guide should clear the button by 1/64 inch (0.4 mm) as the holder rotates.
Procedure: Loosen the screw and position the guide to the proper dimension.
Gear Rack Drive Cam:
Check: Engage the machine into RUN POSITION and rotate the pulley three complete revolutions. The gear rack should now start to move forward.
Procedure: Lay the machine on its side and loosen the clamp screws in the drive cam. Advance the cam until the gear rack just begins to move forward. Tighten screws.
Gear Rack Connecting Rod:
Check: The length of the rod from center of front ball to center of rear ball should be 6 inches (152.4 mm). Adjust if necessary for large buttons or if the gear rack jams.
Procedure: Loosen locknuts and rotate the connecting rod to obtain the required dimension. Adjust spring tension by positioning the spring holder.
Button Orienting Pin:
Check: The distance between the pins must match the holes in the button. If pins do not correspond, the orienting pin must be replaced. Also, check that the pins drop into the button holes when the connecting rod is moved forward manually.
Procedure: To replace, remove the button holder, loosen locknut, and remove the drive gear to access the pin. To align, loosen the screw on the right side of the clamp and rotate the cam with its pin.
Escapement Lever & Release:
Check: There should be 1/32 inch (0.8 mm) clearance between the lever tip and clamp housing. The release spring should have 1/64 inch (0.4 mm) between its stop shoulder and the pin.
Procedure: Loosen the screw on the clamp and rotate the lever to position. Loosen the screw and move the spring to obtain the proper dimension.
Button Alignment:
Check: The button holes must be aligned left to right, parallel to the front edge of the cylinder when presented for sewing.
Procedure: Turn power OFF. Loosen the locknut on the orienting pin base. Rotate the base to align the button holes correctly. Tighten locknut and check under power. Repeat until correct.
Orienting Pin Lifter Lever & Pressure Spring:
Check: The top of the orienting pin base must be 1/64 inch (0.4 mm) from the bottom of the bushing. There should be 1/32 inch (0.8 mm) clearance between the bottom of the lifter lever stop and its bracket. The pressure spring should provide just enough pressure to push the pins into the button holes without bouncing.
Procedure: Adjust the lifter lever by loosening two hex head screws. Adjust the stop by loosening its locking screw and rotating the knurled screw. Adjust spring pressure by loosening a locknut and turning a screw.
Button Unloading Spring, Guide Track & Safety Stop:
Adjust the unloading spring so it doesn’t obstruct the needle but removes the sewn button. Adjust the button guide track opening to be 1/32 inch (0.8 mm) wider than the button. Position the safety stop to prevent the machine from engaging if a button is not in the proper sewing position.
What is the procedure for changing button sizes on the UNION SPECIAL 200-38?
When it becomes necessary to adjust the UNION SPECIAL 200-38 to accommodate buttons of a different size, follow this procedure:
1. Remove all buttons from the vibrating bowl through the opening at the lower front.
2. Disconnect the button chute at the clamp and remove any remaining buttons from the chute and the button holder.
3. Fill the bowl with the new buttons, up to the lower wiper strip ramp.
4. Turn the vibrator power switch to “ON”. Set the vibrator speed so that buttons feed slowly up the track (40 to 60 on the calibrated dial).
5. Set the button wiper strips in the bowl so that only one button will pass under at a time.
6. Adjust the width of the upper button track by turning the thumbscrew until buttons with the concave side down fall off the track.
7. Set the upper guide track on the bowl so that the opening is 1/32 inch (0.8 mm) wider than the button being used.
8. Adjust the lower guide track on the clamp so its opening is 1/32 inch (0.8 mm) wider than the button.
9. The side pressure springs in the button holder should be set so that the buttons are held in place as the holder rotates.
10. Follow the checks explained under the “Adjusting Instructions” for the BUTTON ORIENTING PIN and BUTTON ALIGNMENT.
NOTE: Orienting pins are available for standard buttons from 17 to 22 ligne. The distance between the pins must match the holes in the button. The pins enter the holes diagonally on four-hole buttons. Use the chart below to determine the required orienting pin.
| Distance Between Pins | Part Number |
|---|---|
| .108 inch (2.7 mm) | 475-259 |
| .120 inch (3.0 mm) | 475-260 |
| .134 inch (3.4 mm) | 475-261 |
| .144 inch (3.7 mm) | 475-262 |
| .156 inch (4.0 mm) | 475-263 |
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