SEARS KENMORE 385.12814 (01) PDF Document

Your SEARS KENMORE 385.12814 sewing machine is designed for HOUSEHOLD use only. Read all instructions before using this machine.

DANGER – To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1. A sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.

2. Always unplug before replacing the sewing machine bulb. Replace the bulb with the same type rated 15 Watts.

3. Do not reach for a sewing machine that has fallen into water. Unplug immediately.

4. Do not place or store the sewing machine where it can fall or be pulled into a tub or sink. Do not place or drop it into water or other liquid.

WARNING – To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:

1. Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this sewing machine is used by or near children.

2. Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.

3. Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the sewing machine to the nearest authorized dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.

4. Never operate the sewing machine with any air opening blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the sewing machine and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.

5. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.

6. Do not use outdoors.

7. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

8. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off (“0”) position, then remove the plug from the outlet.

9. Do not unplug by pulling on the cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.

10. Keep fingers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the sewing machine needle.

11. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.

12. Do not use bent needles.

13. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deflect the needle causing it to break.

14. Switch the sewing machine off (“0”) when making any adjustment in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, and the like.

15. Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.

Before inserting the plug into your machine, be sure the power switch is OFF.

1. Check your outlet to be sure it is a 110 to 120 Volt AC outlet.

2. Insert the machine plug into the three-prong plug connector, as shown. It will only fit one way.

3. Insert the power supply plug into the outlet.

4. Push the power switch to turn on the power and sewing light.

SAFETY FEATURE: Your machine will not operate unless the power switch is turned on. If you are interrupted or stop sewing, turn off the power switch to prevent injury to children.

The foot control on your SEARS KENMORE 385.12814 regulates the speed at which you sew.

To increase speed, gently press down with the ball of your foot.

To decrease speed, release your foot pressure slightly.

NOTE: The foot control is sensitive and will increase or decrease your sewing speed immediately. Practice on a scrap of fabric to regulate your sewing speed to your taste and needs.

The spool pins are used for holding the spools of thread when feeding thread to the SEARS KENMORE 385.12814 sewing machine.

To use, pull up the spool pins. Push down for storage.

The Presser Foot Lever on your SEARS KENMORE 385.12814 raises and lowers your presser foot.

You can raise it about 1/4″ higher than the normal up position for easy removal of the presser foot or to help you place heavy fabrics under the presser foot.

You don’t need a pair of scissors to cut the thread after you finish sewing on your SEARS KENMORE 385.12814. Just use the handy thread cutter. Pull the threads several inches to the rear before starting the next seam.

Accessory Storage Box:

The lid of the accessory storage box lifts open toward you. Sewing accessories are conveniently located in the box.

Free-Arm Sewing (Removable Extension Table):

To Remove the Extension Table (for free-arm sewing):

1. Grip the table with your index finger and thumb, as shown.

2. Pull gently to the left. The extension table will snap out.

To Attach the Extension Table (for flat-bed sewing):

1. Insert the tab and the pin into their catches.

2. With your thumb and index finger, gently snap in.

Use the correct presser foot for the stitch you wish to sew. To change presser feet on your SEARS KENMORE 385.12814, follow these steps:

1. Raise the presser bar to its highest position by lifting the presser foot lever.

2. Loosen the presser foot thumb screw.

3. Choose the proper foot and insert it from the bottom.

4. Tighten the screw using the large screw driver to make certain the foot is secure.

To change the needle on your SEARS KENMORE 385.12814 sewing machine:

NOTE: Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you.

1. Loosen the needle clamp screw by turning it toward you.

2. Remove the needle by pulling it downward.

3. Insert the new needle into the needle clamp with the flat side away from you.

4. Push the needle up as far as it will go.

5. Tighten the needle clamp screw firmly with the large screwdriver from the accessory box.

Your choice of needle and thread depends on the fabric you are sewing. In the needle envelope, you will find the following color-coded needles:

• Blue (11) ……………. for stretch fabrics.

• Orange (11) ……….. for lightweight fabrics.

• Red (14) ……………… for medium or medium-heavy weight fabrics.

• Purple (16) ………….. for medium-heavy weight fabrics and decorative topstitching on these fabrics. (This needle has a larger thread hole for thicker topstitching thread.)

• Green (18) …………… for heavyweight fabrics and decorative top-stitching on these fabrics.

1. Release the clutch by turning the clutch knob inside the handwheel toward you to stop the needle from moving while you wind the bobbin.

2. Draw thread from the spool through the bobbin winding tension disc as shown.

3. Pull the end of the thread through the hole in the bobbin, as shown.

4. Place the bobbin onto the bobbin winding spindle with the end of the thread coming from the top of the bobbin. Push the bobbin winding spindle to the right until it clicks.

5. Holding onto the end of the thread, start the machine. When the bobbin is slightly filled, snip off the end of the thread.

6. Wind the thread until the winder stops.

7. Push the bobbin winding spindle to the left and clip the thread. Remove the bobbin.

8. Turn the clutch knob away from you while holding the handwheel for normal sewing operation.

To Remove the Bobbin Case:

1. Remove the extension table by pulling it to the left.

2. Open the shuttle cover by pulling down the embossed part on the left side of the cover.

3. Raise the needle to its highest position by rotating the handwheel toward you.

4. To remove the bobbin case from the shuttle, pull open the latch of the bobbin case.

5. Pull the bobbin case straight out of the shuttle.

To Insert the Bobbin into the Bobbin Case:

1. Place the bobbin in the bobbin case, making sure the thread feeds clockwise and is coming from the bobbin as shown.

2. Pull the thread through the slot of the case as shown.

3. Pull the thread under the tension spring and through the opening. Pull 3 to 4 inches of thread from the bobbin.

4. Holding the latch open, position the case into the shuttle and release the latch. The case should lock into place when the latch is released.

1. Raise the take-up lever to its highest position by turning the handwheel toward you. Raise the presser foot lever. Place the spool on the spool pin as shown, with thread coming from the back of the spool.

2. Draw the thread into the thread guide using both hands.

3. While holding the thread near the spool, draw the thread down into the tension area and then around the check spring holder.

4. Firmly draw the thread up and through the take-up lever from right to left.

5. Draw the thread down and slip it into the left side needle bar thread guide.

6. Thread the needle from front to back. (NOTE: You may want to cut the end of the thread with sharp scissors for easier needle threading.)

1. Raise the presser foot lever. Hold the top thread loosely in your left hand and rotate the handwheel toward you one complete turn.

2. Bring the bobbin thread up by pulling the top thread.

3. Pull both threads under and to the back of the presser foot, leaving 4 to 6 inches of thread clear.

If you cannot pick up the bobbin thread, check the following:

• Is the needle threaded from front to back?

• Is the thread tangled around the needle?

• Are 3 to 4 inches of thread coming from the shuttle?

• Is the thread from the shuttle tangled?

• Is the bobbin properly installed in the bobbin case?

• Is the machine threaded according to the instructions?

The best tension will depend on the stiffness and thickness of the fabric, the number of fabric layers, and the type of stitch. When adjusting top thread tension, the higher the number, the tighter the top thread.

For Straight Stitch:

• Ideal Stitch: The threads will be locked between the two layers of fabric. The stitch, front and back, will be smooth and even with no gaps.

• Tension is too loose: The top thread shows through the bottom of the fabric. The bottom side of the stitch will feel bumpy.

• Tension is too tight: The bobbin thread will come through the top of the fabric. The top side of the stitch will feel bumpy.

For Zigzag Stitch:

• Just Right: In a correct zigzag stitch, the bobbin threads will not show on the top side of the fabric and the top threads will show slightly on the bottom side. Minimize the amount of top thread visible on the bottom side of fabric without causing excessive puckering or causing the bobbin thread to show on the top side.

• Too Tight: The corner of each zigzag will pull together on the top side of the fabric.

• Too Loose: The top thread will loop through the bottom side of the fabric and will be pulled almost together.

Stitch Selector:

The stitch selector control not only determines the stitch you select but also regulates the stitch width for regular zigzag. The different types of stitches are designated by color:

• Straight, Zigzag and Utility Stitches are red.

• Stretch Stitches are yellow (Model 12814 only).

• Geometric Decorative stitches are green.

• Buttonhole Settings are blue.

NOTE: To avoid needle or fabric damage, be sure your needle is up and out of the fabric when adjusting this control.

Stitch Length Control:

This control regulates the length of the stitch. The higher the number, the longer the stitch. “0” means no feed. You can alter the buttonhole stitch density within the blue buttonhole range on this control.

Adjusting Stretch Stitch Balance (Model 12814 only):

To select Stretch Stitches, set the stitch length control at the ▼ position. For most materials, the control should be in the detent position between S and L. You may need to adjust this control to match forward stitches with reverse motion stitches. To shorten stretch stitches, turn the control slightly toward “S”. To lengthen, turn toward “L”.

1. Inspect the needle. It should be straight, properly set, and sharp. It should be the correct size for the fabric and thread. Change your needle frequently, as synthetic blends can dull needles more easily.

2. Before placing material on the machine, ensure the thread ends have been drawn about 4 inches to the rear. Hold onto threads during the sewing of the first 3 or 4 stitches.

3. Test the machine stitch on a scrap of the fabric you plan to use (double thickness). Adjust the stitch length and tension as needed.

4. Place fabric under the presser foot with the bulk of the material to the left of the needle and the right edge on the 5/8″ seam marking for a simple seam.

5. Run the machine at a slow, even speed. More pressure on the foot control means faster sewing.

6. Fasten each seam by back tacking (sewing a few stitches in reverse).

7. Always finish sewing each seam with the needle at its highest point.

8. Guide the fabric gently with your hand in front of the needle. Never pull or hold the fabric in a way that alters the normal feeding.

9. When turning the handwheel manually, always turn it toward you.

To Sew a Straight Stitch:

1. Raise the presser foot and the needle to their highest positions.

2. Place the edge of the fabric next to a stitching guide line on the needle plate (5/8″ is most common).

3. Draw the threads towards the back and lower the presser foot.

4. Press the foot control and gently guide the fabric along the guide line. Do not force the fabric.

5. At the end of the seam, you can use the reverse stitch to lock it. Raise the presser foot, remove the fabric, and cut the threads.

To Use the Seam Guides:

The seam guides on the needle plate help you measure seam width. The lines are 1/8″ apart, with the 5/8″ and 7/8″ lines marked.

To Turn a Square Corner:

1. Stop stitching and lower the needle by turning the handwheel toward you when the fabric edge facing you lines up with the cornering guide.

2. Raise the presser foot and turn the fabric to line up the edge with the 5/8″ seam guide.

3. Lower the presser foot and begin stitching in the new direction.

Topstitching:

Topstitching emphasizes garment lines and keeps edges flat. To topstitch, lower the presser foot, keep the fabric edge next to the right edge of the presser foot, and evenly guide the fabric to produce an even row of topstitching 1 cm from the edge. For more control, use the Left Needle Position (use only the zigzag presser foot for this).

Satin Stitch:

This is a versatile decorative stitch used to overcast a raw edge or in applique. It’s a very short, close zigzag stitch. Once your machine is set up, experiment on a scrap of fabric, as too tight a satin stitch may pucker some lightweight fabrics.

Applique:

Baste or fuse applique pieces on the fabric. Stitch around the applique with a satin stitch, making sure the needle falls along the outer edge of the applique. When sewing corners, lower the needle into the fabric, raise the presser foot, and pivot the fabric.

Bar Tacking:

This stitch is similar to a very short satin stitch and is used to reinforce points of strain like corners or pockets. Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches to create a bar tack.

Fabric Preparation:

Put the right sides of the fabric together and sew to the end of the zipper opening. Use the reverse stitch to lock the stitches. Baste the zipper opening closed with stitch length at “4”.

To Sew:

1. Fold back the left seam allowance. Turn under the right seam allowance to form a 1/8″ fold.

2. Place the zipper teeth next to the 1/8″ fold and pin in place.

3. To sew the left side of the zipper, set the zipper foot on the left side of the needle.

4. Lower the zipper foot on the right side at the bottom of the zipper so the needle pierces the fold and zipper tape. Sew through the fold and tape to where the slider begins.

5. Lower the needle to hold the fabric and raise the presser foot.

6. Open the zipper. Lower the presser foot and stitch the rest of the seam.

7. To sew the right side of the zipper, set the zipper foot on the right side of the needle.

8. Stitch across and below the bottom of the zipper.

9. Turn the corner and continue to guide the foot along the zipper teeth. Stitch through the fabric and zipper tape.

10. Stop about 2″ from the top of the zipper. Lower the needle into the fabric and raise the presser foot.

11. Remove the basting stitches and open the zipper.

12. Lower the foot and stitch the rest of the seam. Make sure the fold is even.

To sew a buttonhole, set the stitch length control to the blue zone and use the sliding buttonhole foot.

1. Carefully mark the buttonhole length on your garment. Change to the sliding buttonhole foot. Insert the garment under the foot with the buttonhole marking running toward you.

2. Move the slider (A) toward you so that the top mark (C) on the slider meets the start mark (B). Line up the markings on the foot with the top mark on your garment. Lower the presser foot.

3. Set the stitch selector at the first buttonhole icon (left bar). Sew forward until you reach the front marking of your buttonhole. Stop sewing at the left stitch.

4. Set the stitch selector at the second icon (bartack). Sew 4 to 6 stitches. Stop sewing at the right stitch.

5. Set the stitch selector at the third icon (right bar). Sew until you reach the back marking of the buttonhole. Stop sewing at the right stitch.

6. Set the stitch selector at the fourth icon (bartack, same as second). Sew 4 to 6 stitches. Stop sewing at the left stitch.

7. Remove the fabric and cut the hole open with the buttonhole opener.

Adjusting Stitch Density: Depending on your fabric, you may alter the buttonhole stitch density within the blue buttonhole range on the stitch length dial. For more density, turn the dial toward “0”. For less density, turn the dial toward “1”. Always make a practice buttonhole on a scrap of fabric first.

The SEARS KENMORE 385.12814 offers several stretch stitches for knits and stretch fabrics. For all stretch stitches, set the Stitch Length Control to the yellow stretch stitch position.

• Straight Stretch: This is the stretch variation of the straight stitch. It works well on curved seams and garments that receive a great deal of strain. It is stitched in a forward and back motion so that it will give when the fabric stretches.

• Rick-Rack Stretch: Use this in any area that you might use a zigzag stitch. It can also be used as a decorative top stitch.

• Overcast Stretch Stitching: Use this for sewing a seam with an overcast finish in one operation. It is ideal for swimwear, ski pants, and other garments requiring stretch. Place the raw edge of the fabric to the LEFT of the needle. NOTE: Use a blue stretch fabric needle to prevent skipped stitches.

• Serging or Pine Leaf Stretch Stitching: Use this stitch for a narrow seam that you do not need to press open flat. It is ideal for 1/4″ seams on knits or on medium to heavyweight woven fabrics where a narrow seam is desired. Place the fabric under the presser foot so that the stitches are made over the edge.

• Feather Stitch: This strong, decorative stitch can reinforce stretch and woven fabrics. It can be used to sew spandex undergarments or decoratively hem elastic fabric. To use it to join fabrics, butt two folded edges together and use this stitch to join them.

1. Unplug the machine and open the face cover.

CAUTION! The light bulb could be HOT. Protect your fingers when you handle it.

2. Push the bulb up and turn the bulb counter-clockwise to remove it.

3. Put the new bulb in by pushing it up and turning it clockwise.

To ensure your machine operates at its best, keep the essential parts clean. The feed dogs and shuttle race areas can attract dust and lint. Check and clean these areas about every three months under normal use, or more often if you sew frequently.

Clean the Feed Dogs:

1. Unplug the machine. Remove the presser foot and needle.

2. Using a screwdriver, remove the needle plate.

3. Use a lint brush to clean the feed dogs.

4. Replace the needle plate.

Clean the Shuttle Race:

1. Raise the needle bar to its highest point and remove the bobbin case.

2. Push the shuttle race levers aside. Lift the shuttle race cover and take the shuttle out.

3. Clean the shuttle race with a lint brush.

4. Put a drop of oil on the center pin of the shuttle and shuttle race. Do not over-oil.

5. To reassemble, position the shuttle race as illustrated. Hold the shuttle by the center pin and position it to form a half moon on the right side. Place the shuttle race cover into place over the shuttle assembly. Snap the levers back into their original position.

Oil the SEARS KENMORE 385.12814 in all areas shown in the manual at least once a year. If you use the machine frequently, oil it under the top cover about every three months. If the machine is not used for an extended time, oil it before sewing. Use good quality sewing machine oil; one or two drops are sufficient. Remove excess oil to avoid staining fabric.

NOTE: Unplug the machine before oiling. Remove the needle and put the needle bar in the full down position.

• Oil behind the Face Cover Plate and under the Arm Cover Plate: Open the face cover plate and/or remove the arm cover plate by loosening the top screw to oil points in the illustration. Use only a drop of oil; do not over-oil.

• Oil the Underside: Open the shuttle cover by pulling down the embossed part on the left side. Tilt the machine head back and remove the bottom cover. Oil points in the illustration.