MAKITA EA6101P (01) PDF MANUAL

MAKITA EA6101P (01) PDF SUMMARY:

What is the proper procedure for mounting the guide bar and saw chain?

First, release the chain brake by pulling the hand guard in the direction of the arrow. Unscrew the retaining nuts. Pull off the sprocket guard. Turn the chain tensioning screw to the left (counter-clockwise) until the pin of the chain tensioner is underneath the threaded pin. Put on the guide bar, ensuring that the pin of the chain tensioner engages in the hole in the guide bar. Lift the chain over the sprocket. Do not insert the chain between the chain sprocket and the disc. Guide the chain from above about halfway into the groove on the guide bar, noting that the cutting edges along the top of the chain must point in the direction of the arrow. Pull the chain around the sprocket nose of the guide bar in the direction of the arrow. Lift the saw chain over the chain catch. Replace the sprocket guard, ensuring the saw chain remains on the chain catch. Tighten the nuts only hand-tight to begin with. Finally, turn the chain tensioning screw to the right (clockwise) until the saw chain catches in the groove on the lower side of the guide bar. Slightly lift the end of the guide bar and turn the chain adjusting screw to the right (clockwise) until the chain rests against the bottom side of the guide bar. While still holding up the tip of the guide bar, tighten the retaining nuts with the universal wrench.

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How do you tighten the saw chain?

Turn the chain tensioning screw to the right (clockwise) until the saw chain catches in the groove on the lower side of the guide bar. Slightly lift the end of the guide bar and continue turning the chain adjusting screw to the right until the chain rests against the bottom side of the guide bar. While holding the tip of the guide bar up, securely tighten the retaining nuts using the universal wrench.

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What is the method for checking the chain tension?

The chain tension is correct when the chain rests against the bottom side of the guide bar and can still be easily turned by hand. Ensure the chain brake is released while checking the tension. It is important to check the chain tension frequently, especially with new chains as they tend to stretch during initial use. The engine must be switched off when checking the chain tension.

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What steps are involved in retightening the saw chain?

Loosen the retaining nuts by approximately one turn using the universal wrench. Slightly raise the tip of the guide bar. Turn the chain tensioning screw to the right (clockwise) until the saw chain is once again snug against the bottom edge of the guide bar. While still holding the tip of the guide bar in the raised position, retighten the retaining nuts securely with the universal wrench.

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How does the chain brake operate?

The chain brake on the EA6100P and EA6101P models is an inertia-activated system. In the event of a kickback caused by the guide bar tip coming into contact with wood, the sudden upward movement of the saw will cause the chain brake to automatically engage, stopping the chain within a fraction of a second. The chain brake can also be engaged manually by pushing the hand guard forward (towards the tip of the saw) with your left hand. To release the chain brake, pull the hand guard towards you until you feel it click into place.

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How do you engage the chain brake manually?

To manually engage the chain brake, push the hand guard forward, towards the tip of the saw, with your left hand.

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How do you release the chain brake?

To release the chain brake, pull the hand guard towards you until you hear or feel it catch.

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What type of oil should be used for chain lubrication?

Use a chain oil that contains an adhesive additive. This additive helps the oil to stay on the chain and guide bar, preventing it from being thrown off too quickly. Makita recommends using a bio-degradable chain oil to minimize environmental impact. In some areas, the use of bio-degradable oil may even be required by local regulations. Makita’s BIOTOP chain oil is made from special vegetable oils and is 100% bio-degradable, having been awarded the “blue angel” certification for its environmental friendliness. Bio-degradable oils have a limited shelf life and should ideally be used within two years from the date of manufacture, which is typically printed on the container.

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What is the recommended fuel mixture for this chainsaw?

This chainsaw is powered by a two-stroke engine and requires a mixture of gasoline and two-stroke engine oil. The recommended fuel is unleaded regular gasoline with a minimum octane rating of 89 (R+M)/2. If this octane rating is not available, you can use fuel with a higher octane rating without negatively affecting the engine. For optimal engine performance, health, and environmental protection, it is advised to use only unleaded fuel. The engine should be lubricated with a synthetic oil specifically designed for two-stroke air-cooled engines with a quality grade of JASO FC or ISO-L-EGD. Makita has designed this engine to be used with their synthetic two-stroke engine oil at a mixture ratio of 50:1. This ratio means mixing 50 parts of gasoline with 1 part of oil. Using this oil and mixture ratio helps to ensure a long engine life, reliable operation, and minimal exhaust emissions. If Makita synthetic two-stroke engine oil is not accessible, using other synthetic two-stroke engine oils with the same quality grade (JASO FC or ISO-L-EGD) at a 50:1 ratio is recommended to maintain optimal engine operation.

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How do you prepare the fuel-oil mixture?

First, pour the entire amount of two-stroke oil into a clean fuel container. Then, add half of the required gasoline to the container and mix it thoroughly. After that, add the remaining gasoline to the container and shake the mixture well before pouring it into the chainsaw’s fuel tank.

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What precautions should be taken when refueling the chainsaw?

Always follow safety precautions when handling fuel. Ensure the engine is switched off before refueling. Thoroughly clean the area around the fuel and oil tank caps to prevent any dirt from entering the tanks. Carefully unscrew the fuel tank cap (you can use the universal wrench if needed) and fill the tank with the prepared fuel mixture up to the bottom edge of the filling neck. Be careful not to spill any fuel. After filling, screw the tank cap back on by hand until it is fully tightened. Clean the tank cap and the area around the tank after you have finished refueling.

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Is it acceptable to use waste oil for chain lubrication?

No, never use waste oil for lubricating the chain. Waste oil is extremely harmful to the environment and contains high concentrations of carcinogenic substances. Using waste oil can also lead to excessive wear and tear on the oil pump and the sawing components of the chainsaw. Any damage caused by the use of waste oil or inappropriate chain oil will void the product guarantee.

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What is the procedure for checking the chain lubrication?

Never operate the chainsaw without sufficient chain lubrication, as this will reduce the lifespan of the chain and guide bar. Before starting work, check the oil level in the chain oil tank and verify that the oil is being fed to the chain. To check the oil feed rate, start the engine. Then, hold the running chainsaw approximately 6 inches (15 cm) above a log or the ground (ensure you have a stable base). If the lubrication is adequate, you should see a light trace of oil being thrown off the chain. Be mindful of the wind direction to avoid unnecessary exposure to the oil spray. It is normal for some residual chain oil to drip from the oil feed system, guide bar, and chain for a short period after the saw has been turned off; this is not a defect.

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How can you adjust the chain lubrication?

The engine must be switched off before adjusting the chain lubrication. The oil pump feed rate can be adjusted using the adjusting screw located on the bottom side of the chainsaw housing. The oil pump is typically set to a medium feed rate at the factory. You can adjust the feed rate to minimum, moderate, or maximum by using a small screwdriver to turn the adjusting screw. Turning the screw to the right will increase the oil feed rate (faster), while turning it to the left will decrease the rate (slower). Select one of the four settings depending on the length of the guide bar you are using. While working, continuously ensure that there is enough chain oil in the tank and add more if necessary.

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What are the steps for starting the engine?

Ensure the chainsaw is completely assembled and checked before attempting to start it. Move at least 3 meters (10 feet) away from the location where you fueled the saw. Make sure you have secure footing and place the saw on the ground so that the guide bar and chain are clear of any obstructions. Engage the chain brake to prevent the chain from moving. Firmly grip the front handle with one hand and press the saw down against the ground. Place your right foot through the rear handle opening to hold the saw securely. If the chainsaw has a Featherlight-Start System, start the saw smoothly and evenly without excessive force.

For a cold start, prime the fuel pump by pressing it several times until you see fuel circulating in the pump. Move the combination switch to the “Choke” position (usually upwards). This will also activate the half-throttle lock. Pull the starter handle smoothly and evenly, but do not pull the starter cable out more than about 20 inches (50 cm), and allow it to retract slowly by hand. Repeat this starting procedure twice. Then, move the combination switch to the central “ON” position and pull the starter handle smoothly and evenly again. Once the engine starts, immediately grasp the rear handle (ensuring the safety lock button is engaged by your palm) and press the throttle trigger to bring the engine to idle speed. Immediately disengage the chain brake after the engine is running smoothly at idle.

For a warm start, the procedure is similar to a cold start, but with a slight modification. Before pulling the starter, push the combination switch up to the “Choke” position and then immediately move it back to the middle “ON” position. This is done only to engage the half-throttle lock. If the engine does not start after 2 or 3 pulls, repeat the entire cold start procedure. If the engine was only recently switched off for a short period, it may be possible to start it without using the combination switch at all. If the fuel tank has been completely emptied and the engine has stopped due to fuel starvation, prime the fuel pump by pressing it repeatedly until fuel is visible in the pump before attempting to start.

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How do you stop the engine?

To stop the engine, push the combination switch down to the “STOP” position. Note that after being pushed down, the combination switch will automatically return to the “ON” position. This means the engine is off but can be restarted without moving the switch again. To completely cut off the ignition current, push the combination switch all the way down past the resistance point to the safety “ignition current interrupted” position.

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What adjustments can a user make to the carburetor?

Generally, carburetor adjustments should only be performed by a specialized Makita service center. However, the user can typically adjust the idle speed using the adjusting screw marked “T”. If the saw chain is moving while the engine is idling (without pressing the throttle), it is necessary to adjust the idle speed. Ensure the chainsaw is completely assembled and tested before adjusting the idle speed. Idle speed adjustments should only be made when the engine is warm, the air filter is clean, and the guide bar and chain are properly installed. Use a screwdriver with a 4 mm blade for idle adjustments. To decrease the idle speed, turn the adjusting screw “T” counter-clockwise (unscrew). To increase the idle speed, turn the adjusting screw “T” clockwise (screw in). It is crucial that if the saw chain continues to move at idle even after adjusting the idle speed, you should not use the saw and instead take it to a Makita service center for inspection.

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How do you sharpen the saw chain?

Before working on the guide bar or chain, always switch off the engine and disconnect the spark plug cap. Always wear protective gloves when sharpening the chain. The chain needs sharpening when the sawdust produced from damp wood looks like wood flour, when the chain requires excessive pressure to cut, when the cutting edges are visibly damaged, or when the saw pulls to the left or right while cutting (indicating uneven sharpening). Sharpen the chain frequently, but avoid removing too much metal. Usually, 2 or 3 strokes of a file per cutter are sufficient. If you have sharpened the chain several times yourself, it is recommended to have it professionally resharpened at a service center.

Ensure you use only chains and guide bars designed for your specific saw model. All cutters must have the same length. Cutters with varying lengths can cause the chain to run roughly and may lead to cracks. The minimum cutter length is 3 mm. Do not attempt to resharpen the chain if the cutters have reached this minimum length; the chain must be replaced. The depth of the cut is determined by the height difference between the depth limiter (the rounded nose) and the cutting edge. For optimal results, maintain a depth-limiter depth of 0.64 mm (0.025 inches). Be aware that excessive depth increases the risk of kickback. Use a special saw chain round file for sharpening; standard round files are not suitable. The correct file diameter depends on the chain type: for chain types 082 and 086, use a 3/16 inch (4.8 mm) diameter file, and for chain type 496, use a 7/32 inch (5.5 mm) diameter file. The file should only cut when you push it forward (away from you) and should be lifted on the backward stroke. Begin by sharpening the shortest cutter, as its length will serve as the standard for all other cutters on the chain. New saw teeth must be filed to have the exact same shape as the original teeth, including the running surfaces. File at an angle of 10 degrees to the guide bar, depending on the chain type. Using a file holder can make guiding the file easier. File holders are typically marked with the correct sharpening angles: α = 25 degrees for chain type 496 and α = 30 degrees for chain types 082 and 086. Keep these marks parallel with the chain while filing. The file holder also helps to limit the cutting depth to the correct 4/5 of the file diameter. After sharpening, use a chain gauge to check the height of the depth limiter. Any excess height, even if minimal, should be corrected using a special flat file. Finally, round off the front of the depth limiter.

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How do you clean the inside of the sprocket guard?

Before performing any work on the guide bar or chain, ensure the engine is switched off and the spark plug cap is removed. Always wear protective gloves. Start the chainsaw only after it has been completely assembled and inspected. Remove the sprocket guard. Clean the inside of the sprocket guard with a brush. Remove the chain and guide bar. Make sure there are no residues or any foreign material left in the oil guide groove or on the chain tensioner. After cleaning, reinstall the guide bar, saw chain, and sprocket guard. Remember that the chain brake is a crucial safety component that is subject to normal wear. Regular inspection and maintenance by a Makita service center are important for your safety.

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What is the procedure for cleaning the guide bar?

Always wear protective gloves when cleaning the guide bar. Regularly inspect the bearing surfaces of the guide bar for any damage and clean them using a suitable tool. Keep the two oiling holes and the entire guide bar free from dirt and foreign material. Before mounting a new chain, inspect the sprocket for wear. A worn-out sprocket can damage a new chain and should be replaced. To remove the sprocket, first take off the sprocket guard, then remove the chain and guide bar. Next, remove the circlip. Be careful when removing the circlip as it might pop out of its groove; hold your thumb against it to prevent it from flying off. Remove the washer, and then replace the old sprocket with a new one. Refer to the spare parts list for the correct part number for the new sprocket. Install the new chain sprocket, washer, and circlip. For instructions on replacing the guide bar, chain, and sprocket, refer to the section on “PUTTING INTO OPERATION”. Avoid using a new chain with a worn chain sprocket; it is recommended to replace the chain sprocket after using no more than two worn-out chains. Allow a new chain to run at half-speed for a few minutes to ensure even distribution of chain oil. New chains tend to stretch, so check the chain tension frequently after installation. The clutch drum should also be replaced after using two worn-out chain sprockets.

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How do you replace the saw chain?

Only use chains and guide bars that are specifically designed for your chainsaw model. When changing the type of chain, the chain sprocket may need to be modified or even replaced to be compatible with the new chain type.

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What are the steps for cleaning the air filter?

To prevent eye injury, always wear eye protection when using compressed air for cleaning the filter. Do not clean the air filter with fuel or any other flammable liquids. Disengage the hood clips using the combination tool and remove the hood. Push the combination switch to the “Choke” position to prevent dirt particles from falling into the carburetor. Turn the air filter lock counter-clockwise to release it and then lift out the air filter. It’s important to cover the intake opening with a clean cloth to prevent any dirt from getting into the carburetor. To clean the filter, gently tap out any loose dust or carefully blow out dust from the inside using compressed air. Avoid brushing the filter fleece, as this can push dirt particles deeper into the material. If the filter is heavily soiled, wash it in a lukewarm solution of dishwashing liquid and rinse it from the inside under running water. Note that the filter only needs cleaning when you notice a significant loss of engine power. If cleaning does not improve the performance, it is time to replace the filter. Allow the air filter to dry completely before reinstalling it. Do not use any heat source to dry the filter. Before putting the air filter back, check the choke flap for any dirt and remove it with a brush if necessary. If the air filter is damaged, it must be replaced immediately, as pieces of cloth or large dirt particles can cause serious damage to the engine. To reassemble, place the air filter back in its space, ensuring it is seated evenly. Turn the air filter lock clockwise to secure it. Push down the combination switch and press the throttle all the way down once to deactivate the throttle lock. Finally, put the hood back on and lock it by pressing in the hood clips.

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How often should you check the muffler screws?

Check the muffler screws for tightness regularly.

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What is the procedure for checking the muffler screws?

Be careful and ensure the engine is cool before checking the muffler screws. Inspect the muffler screws for tightness. If they are loose, hand-tighten them. It is important not to overtighten the screws. First, remove the two plugs using a small screwdriver, and then replace them after checking the screws.

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How do you replace the spark plug?

Never touch the spark plug or plug cap when the engine is running due to the risk of high voltage. Switch off the engine before starting any maintenance work, and be aware that a hot engine can cause burns, so it is advisable to wear protective gloves. The spark plug should be replaced if the insulator is damaged, if there is electrode erosion (burn), or if the electrodes are very dirty or oily. First, remove the filter cover. Then, pull the plug cap off the spark plug. Use only the combination wrench supplied with the saw to unscrew and remove the spark plug. The correct electrode gap for the new spark plug is 0.020 inches (0.5 mm). Only use the recommended spark plug type: NGK BPMR 7A.

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How can you check the ignition spark?

Insert the combination tool between the hood and the cylinder as shown in the manual. Be careful not to insert the tool into the spark plug hole; make contact only with the cylinder to avoid engine damage. Using insulated pliers, press the unscrewed spark plug (with the spark plug cap firmly attached) against the combination tool, keeping it away from the spark plug hole. Move the combination switch to the “ON” position. Then, pull the starter cable sharply. If the ignition system is functioning correctly, you should see a visible spark near the electrodes of the spark plug.

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What are the steps for replacing the starter cable?

Disengage the hood clip using the combination tool. Unscrew the four screws holding the fan housing. Slightly spread the handguard strut and remove the fan housing. Remove the air guide from the fan housing. Be cautious as the return spring might be under tension; do not unscrew the screw if this is the case. If you are replacing the starter cable even though it is not broken, you will first need to release the tension on the cable drum return spring. To do this, pull the cable all the way out of the fan housing using the grip. Hold the cable drum with one hand and push the cable into the designated space with the other. Carefully allow the drum to turn until the return spring is no longer under tension. Unscrew the screw and remove the driver along with the spring, then carefully remove the cable drum. Separate the driver and the cable drum, remove any remnants of the old cable, and take off the spring. Reinstall the spring in the cable drum, ensuring its lower end fits into the notch. Thread a new cable (3.8 mm diameter, 1000 mm length) through the opening, remembering to include the washer, and tie knots at both ends as shown in the illustration. Pull one knot into the cable drum and press it into its space, then pull the other knot into the starter grip. Guide the hole in the driver over the end of the spring, press down the driver, and turn it slightly counter-clockwise until it sits flush on the cable drum. Place the drum back on its spindle and turn it slightly until the return spring engages. Insert and tighten the screw. Guide the cable into the slot on the cable drum and turn the drum clockwise three times with the cable. Hold the cable drum with your left hand, untwist the cable with your right hand, pull it taut, and hold it. Carefully release the cable drum; the spring should wind the cable around the drum. Repeat this procedure once. The starter grip should now be positioned straight up on the fan housing. When the cable is pulled all the way out, it should still be possible to turn the pulley another 1/4 turn against the return spring. Be aware of the danger of injury; secure the cable grip when pulled out, as it will snap back if the cable pulley is accidentally released.

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What is the procedure for replacing the return spring pack?

First, disassemble the fan housing and cable drum. Be extremely careful as the return spring can pop out and cause injury; always wear eye protection and protective gloves during this procedure. Lightly tap the fan housing on a wooden surface with the entire surface of the hollow side facing down, and hold it firmly. Then, carefully and slowly lift the fan housing. This should allow the return spring pack to fall out in a controlled manner. If the return spring has come out of the plastic pack, it will now be relaxed. Carefully insert a new return spring cassette and press it down until it clicks into place. Finally, reassemble the cable drum and tension the return spring.

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How do you replace the starter spring?

If the starter spring in the Featherlight-Starting system is broken, you will notice that it requires more effort to start the engine, and there will be some resistance when pulling the starter cable. If you observe this, check the spring and replace it if necessary.

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What are the steps for mounting the fan housing?

Insert the air guide into the fan housing, ensuring that the five recesses engage properly. Position the fan housing on the machine, placing it under the handguard strut. Apply slight counterpressure and pull the starter grip until the starter mechanism catches. Finally, tighten the screws to secure the fan housing.

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How do you replace the suction head?

The felt filter of the suction head can become clogged over time. It is recommended to replace the suction head every three months to ensure an unimpeded flow of fuel to the carburetor. To remove the suction head for replacement, use a piece of wire bent at one end to form a hook. Insert this hook through the fuel tank filler neck and pull out the suction head.

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How do you replace or clean the spark arrester screen?

The spark arrester screen should be checked and cleaned regularly. Ensure the engine has cooled down completely before performing this task. Loosen the screw and remove the spark arrester screen. When cleaning the screen, do not use any sharp or pointed objects, as this could damage or deform the screen wires. After cleaning or replacing the screen, reassemble it and tighten the screw.

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What is the procedure for cleaning the air filter compartment and fan compartment?

First, remove the cover and then remove the fan housing. To prevent eye injury, always wear eye protection when using compressed air for cleaning. Once these parts are removed, the entire area can be brushed clean or cleaned using compressed air.

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How do you clean the cylinder fins?

A bottle brush can be used to effectively clean the cylinder fins.

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What periodic maintenance is required for this chainsaw?

Regular maintenance is crucial for the long life, prevention of damage, and proper functioning of the safety features of the chainsaw. Failure to perform the prescribed maintenance can lead to accidents. Any maintenance work not described in the instruction manual should only be carried out by a Makita service center.

Before each start, inspect the saw chain for damage and sharpness, and check the chain tension. Examine the guide bar for any damage and ensure the chain lubrication system is functioning correctly. Verify the proper function of the chain brake, combination switch, safety locking button, and throttle lever. Check the fuel and oil tank caps for tightness and any leaks.

Every day, clean the air filter if there is a loss of power. Check the guide bar for damage and clean the oil intake bore. Clean the guide bar support, paying particular attention to the oil guide groove. Check the idle speed to ensure the chain does not run when the engine is idling.

Every week, clean the fan housing, air filter compartment, fan compartment, and cylinder fins to maintain good cooling airflow. Inspect the spark plug and replace it if necessary. Check the tightness of the muffler mounting screws and the condition of the screws themselves. Clean or replace the spark arrester screen if needed. Examine the chain guide. Check all screws and nuts to ensure they are in good condition and firmly secured.

Every three months, replace the suction head and clean the fuel and oil tanks.

Annually, have the chainsaw checked at an authorized service center.

For storage, clean the exterior of the chainsaw and check for any damage; if damage is found, have it repaired by a qualified service center immediately. Dismount the guide bar and chain, clean them, and apply a light oil. Clean the guide groove of the guide bar. Empty and clean the fuel and oil tanks. Run the carburetor until it is empty.

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What should you do if the chain does not run even though the engine is running?

If the engine is running but the chain is not, the most likely cause is that the chain brake is engaged. Ensure that the chain brake is disengaged before attempting to cut.

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What could be the reasons if the engine does not start or starts only with difficulty?

If the engine does not start or has difficulty starting, there could be several reasons. Check if there is no ignition spark, which could be due to the STOP switch being activated, a fault or short circuit in the ignition system, or a defective spark plug cap or spark plug. Problems with the fuel supply, such as an empty fuel tank, the combination switch being in the Choke position, a defective carburetor, a dirty suction head, or a bent or interrupted fuel line could also be the cause. Issues with the compression system, like a defective cylinder base packing ring, radial shaft packings, or cylinder or piston rings, or a spark plug that does not seal properly, can also lead to starting problems. Mechanical malfunctions, such as the starter not engaging or a broken spring in the starter, or broken internal engine parts, could also prevent the engine from starting.

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What should you check if you experience warm start difficulties?

If you are experiencing difficulties starting the engine when it is warm, check if the fuel tank is filled and ensure that the carburetor adjustment is correct. Also, verify that there is an ignition spark.

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What could cause the engine to start but die immediately afterward?

If the engine starts but then dies immediately, it could be due to an incorrect idling adjustment, a dirty suction head or carburetor, a defective tank venting system, an interrupted fuel line, a defective cable, or a malfunctioning combination switch.

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What are the potential causes of insufficient engine power?

Insufficient engine power can be caused by several factors. The air filter might be dirty, the carburetor adjustment could be incorrect, the muffler might be clogged, the exhaust channel in the cylinder could be clogged, or the spark arrester screen might be clogged.

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What should you do if there is no chain lubrication?

If there is no oil on the chain, first check if the oil tank is empty and refill it if necessary. Also, inspect the oil guide groove for any dirt or blockage and clean it if needed. Finally, ensure that the oil pump adjusting screw is correctly set.

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Malfunction	System	Observation	Cause
Chain does not run	Chain brake	Engine runs	Chain brake actuated.
Engine does not start	Ignition system	No ignition spark	STOP switch actuated, fault or short-circuit in ignition system, Spark plug cap or spark plug defective.
Engine does not start	Fuel supply	Fuel tank is filled	Combination switch in Choke position, carburetor defective, suction head dirty, fuel line bent or interrupted.
Engine does not start	Compression system	Inside	Cylinder base packing ring defective, radial shaft packings defective, cylinder or piston rings defective.
Engine does not start	Compression system	Outside	Spark plug does not seal.
Engine does not start	Mechanical	Starter does not engage	Spring in starter broken, broken parts inside the engine.
Warm start difficulties	Carburetor	Fuel tank is filled	Wrong carburetor adjustment.
Warm start difficulties	Ignition spark
Engine starts, but dies	Fuel supply	Fuel tank is filled	Wrong idling adjustment, suction head or carburetor dirty. Tank venting defective, fuel line interrupted, cable defective, Combination switch defective.
Insufficient power	Several systems	Engine is idling	Air filter dirty, wrong carburetor adjustment, muffler clogged, exhaust channel in cylinder clogged, spark arrester screen