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What is the California Proposition 65 warning for this product?
What is the Emissions Component Defect Warranty Coverage?
What is the Emission Component Defect Warranty Period?
Which parts are covered by the Emission Components Defect Warranty?
Listed below are the parts covered by the Emission Components Defect Warranty. Some of the parts listed below may require scheduled maintenance and are warranted up to the first scheduled replacement point for that part.
Fuel Metering System
Carburetor and internal parts
Fuel filter, if applicable
Throttle stopper, if applicable
Choke System, if applicable
Air Induction System
Pre filter, if exist
Air filter, Air cleaner case, Intake manifold
Ignition System
Spark plugs
Flywheel Magneto
Ignition Coil
Miscellaneous Items Used in Above Systems
Fuel hoses, clamps and sealing gaskets
How do I obtain warranty service for emissions components?
What is NOT covered by the Emissions Warranty?
Conditions resulting from tampering, misuse, improper adjustment (unless they were made by the service dealer authorized by MAKITA during a warranty repair), alteration, accident, failure to use the recommended fuel and oil, or not performing required maintenance services.
The replacement parts used for required maintenance services.
Consequential damages such as loss of time, inconvenience, loss of use of the engine or equipment, etc.
Diagnosis and inspection charges that do not result in warranty-eligible service being performed.
Any non-authorized replacement part, or malfunction of authorized parts due to use of non-authorized parts.
What are the owner’s warranty responsibilities regarding emissions?
What should I know about maintenance and repairs related to the emission control system warranty?
How do I make an emissions warranty claim?
What do the symbols on the chain saw and in the manual mean?
! Read instruction manual and follow the warning- and safety precautions!
Caution, kickback!
Particular care and caution!
Chain brake
Forbidden!
Fuel and oil mixture
Wear protective helmet, eye and ear protection!
Normal / Winter operation
Wear protective gloves!
Carburetor adjustment (H L S screws)
No smoking!
Chain oil fill/oil pump
No open fire!
Saw chain oil adjustment screw
STOP Stop engine!
First aid
Push decompression valve
Recycling
Start engine
Combination switch Start/Stop (I/O), Choke
What are the primary safety rules for operating this chain saw?
a) Contact of the guide bar nose with any object should be avoided.
b) Tip contact may cause the guide bar to move suddenly upward and backward, which may cause serious or fatal injury.
c) Always operate the chain saw with both hands.
Read and follow all safety precautions in the owner’s manual. Failure to follow instructions could result in serious injury.
What is kickback and how can it be reduced?
Kickback may occur when the nose or tip of the guide bar touches an object, or when the wood closes in and pinches the saw chain in the cut. This contact may abruptly stop the saw chain and in some cases may cause a lightning fast reverse reaction, kicking the guide bar up and back towards the user, or push the guide bar back towards the operator. Kickback may cause you to lose control of the saw.
As a chain saw user, you can take several steps to reduce the risk of a kickback and potential injury:
A. With a basic understanding of kickback, you can reduce or eliminate the element of surprise. It is a sudden surprise that contributes to accidents.
B. Keep a good firm grip on the saw with both hands, your right hand on the rear grip and your left hand on the tubular handle, when the engine is running. Use a firm grip with thumbs and fingers encircling the chain saw handles. A firm grip can neutralize kickback and help you maintain control of the saw. Don’t let go!
C. Make sure that the area in which you are cutting is free from obstructions. Do not let the nose of the guide bar contact the log, branch, or any other obstructions which could be hit while you are operating the saw.
D. Do not overreach or cut above shoulder height.
E. Follow manufacturer’s sharpening and maintenance instructions for the saw chain.
F. Only use replacement bars and chains specified by the manufacturer or the equivalent.
Low kickback bars and low kickback chains are designed to reduce the risk of kickback injury. Ask your MAKITA dealer about these devices.
What are the additional safety precautions for using chain saws?
1. Do not operate a chain saw when you are fatigued.
2. Use safety footwear; snug-fitting clothing; protective gloves; and eye, hearing, and head protection devices.
3. Use caution when handling fuel. Move the chain saw at least 10 feet (3 m) from the fueling point before starting the engine.
4. Do not allow other persons to be near the chain saw when starting or cutting with the chain saw. Keep bystanders and animals out of the work area.
5. Do not start cutting until you have a clear work area, secure footing, and a planned retreat path from the falling tree.
6. Keep all parts of your body away from the saw chain when the engine is running.
7. Before you start the engine, make sure that the saw chain is not contacting anything.
8. Carry the chain saw with the engine stopped, the guide bar and saw chain to the rear, and the muffler away from your body.
9. Do not operate a chain saw that is damaged, is improperly adjusted, or is not completely and securely assembled. Be sure that the saw chain stops moving when the throttle control trigger is released.
10. Shut off the engine before setting it down.
11. Use extreme caution when cutting small size brush and saplings because slender material may catch the saw chain and be whipped toward you or pull you off balance.
12. When cutting a limb that is under tension be alert for springback so that you will not be struck when the tension on the wood fibers is released.
13. Keep the handles dry, clean, and free of oil or fuel mixture.
14. Operate the chain saw only in well-ventilated areas.
15. Do not operate a chain saw in a tree unless you have been specifically trained to do so.
16. All chain saw service, other than the items listed in the owner’s manual maintenance instructions, should be performed by MAKITA.
17. When transporting your chain saw, use the chain protection cover.
18. Low kickback bars and low kickback chains are designed to reduce the risk of kickback injury. Ask your MAKITA dealer about these devices.
What are general safety rules regarding bystanders and storage?
Minors should never be allowed to use a chain saw.
Bystanders, especially children and animals should not be allowed in the area where a chain saw is in use.
Never let the saw run unattended.
Store it in a locked place away from children. Fill the fuel tank to 7/8 th full (see storing the saw).
Do not lend your chain saw without this Owner’s and Safety Manual. Be sure that anyone using your saw understands the information given.
What physical condition is required to operate a chain saw?
What is Whitefinger disease (Raynaud’s phenomenon)?
What clothing and protective gear should be worn when operating the chain saw?
Clothing must be sturdy and snug-fitting, but allow complete freedom of movement. Avoid loose-fitting jackets, scarfs, neckties, jewelry, flared or cuffed pants, or anything that could become entangled with the saw or brush. Wear overalls or jeans with a reinforced cutting resistant insert.
Protect your hands with gloves when handling saw and saw chain. Heavy-duty, nonslip gloves improve your grip and protect your hands.
Good footing is most important in chain saw work. Wear sturdy boots with nonslip soles. Steel-toed safety boots are recommended.
Proper eye protection is a must. Non-fogging, vented goggles and a face screen is recommended. Their use reduces the risk of eye and facial injury.
Wear an approved safety hard hat to protect your head. Chain saw noise may damage your hearing. Always wear noise protection equipment (ear plugs or ear muffs) to protect your hearing.
Continual and regular users should have their hearing checked regularly.
Wear protective helmet, eye and ear protection.
How should the chain saw be transported?
WARNING! Always stop the engine before putting a chain saw down or carrying it. Carrying a chain saw with the engine running is extremely dangerous. Accidental acceleration of the engine can cause the chain to rotate. Avoid touching the hot muffler.
By hand: When carrying your saw by hand, the engine must be stopped and the saw must be in the proper position. The chain protection cover should be over the chain and the guide bar must point backwards. When carrying your saw the bar should be behind you.
By vehicle: When transporting in a vehicle, keep chain and bar covered with the chain guard. Properly secure your saw to prevent turnover, fuel spillage and damage to the saw. Make sure the saw is not exposed to heat or sparks.
What are the instructions for fueling the chain saw?
Your MAKITA saw uses an oil-gasoline mixture for fuel (see chapter “Fuel”).
WARNING! Gasoline is an extremely flammable fuel. Use extreme caution when handling gasoline or fuel mix. Do not smoke or bring any sparks or flame near the fuel.
Fueling instructions: Fuel your chain saw in well ventilated areas or outdoors. Always shut off the engine and allow it to cool before refueling. Select bare ground for fueling and move the chain saw at least 10 feet (3 m) from fueling spot before starting the engine.
Wipe off any spilled fuel before starting your saw and check for leakage.
Check for fuel leakage while refueling and during operation. If fuel or oil leakage is found, do not start or run the engine until leak is fixed and spilled fuel has been wiped away. Clothing with fuel on it has to be changed immediately (this is a danger to your life!).
Avoid skin contact with fuel. Never loosen or remove the cap of the fuel tank while the engine is running.
How should I start the chain saw?
Do not drop start. This method is very dangerous because you may lose control of the saw.
Place the chain saw on firm ground or other solid surface in an open area. Maintain a good balance and secure footing. Place your right foot through the rear handle opening and firmly grasp the front handle with your left hand.
Be absolutely sure that guide bar and chain are clear of you or all other obstructions and objects, including the ground, because when the engine starts in semi-throttle position, engine speed will be fast enough for the clutch to engage the sprocket and turn the chain which may cause a kickback.
Never attempt to start the saw when the guide bar is in a cut or kerf.
When you pull the starter grip, don’t wrap the starter rope around your hands. Do not allow the grip to snap back, but guide the starter rope slowly back to permit the rope to rewind properly. Failure to follow this procedure may result in injury to hand or fingers and may damage the starter mechanism.
(See also “Starting the Engine” section for detailed cold/warm start procedure)
What adjustments should be checked regularly?
Idle Speed: At correct idle speed, chain should not turn. Do not use a saw with incorrect idle speed adjustment. Adjust the idle speed yourself according to the appropriate section of this manual or have your MAKITA dealer check your saw and make proper adjustments or repairs.
Chain Tension: Check the saw chain tension frequently, especially just after installing a new chain. New chains may stretch more during their initial use. A properly adjusted saw chain can be pulled freely around the guide bar by hand without sagging. Always stop the engine and wear gloves when checking or adjusting the chain tension.
What are the recommended working conditions?
Operate your chain saw only outdoors. Operate the saw under good visibility and daylight conditions only.
WARNING! Take extreme care in wet and freezing weather (rain, snow, ice). Put off the work when the weather is windy, stormy or rainfall is heavy. Clear the area where you are working.
WARNING! Avoid stumbling on obstacles such as stumps, roots or rocks and watch out for holes or ditches. Be extremely cautious when working on slopes or uneven ground. There is increased danger of slipping on freshly debarked logs.
How should I hold the chain saw during cutting?
Always hold the saw firmly with both hands when the engine is running. Place your left hand on the tubular handle and your right hand on grip and throttle lever. Left-handers should follow these instructions too.
Wrap your fingers tightly around the handles, keeping the handles cradled between your thumb and forefinger. With your hands in this position, you can best oppose and absorb the push, pull and kickback forces of your saw without having it slip out of your grip. Make sure your chain saw handle and grip are in good condition and free of moisture, pitch, oil or grease.
Always start a cut with the chain running at full speed and the spike bar in contact with the wood.
WARNING! Never use the saw with one hand. You cannot control reactive forces and may lose control of the saw.
WARNING! Do not operate your chain saw in semi-throttle position. Cutting in this position does not permit the operator proper control of the saw or chain speed.
WARNING! Never come too close to a rotating chain with your hands or body.
What materials should I avoid cutting?
WARNING! Do not cut any material other than wood or wooden objects.
Use your chain saw for cutting only. It is not designed for prying or shoveling away limbs, roots or other objects.
When sawing, make sure that the saw chain does not touch any foreign materials such as rocks, nails and the like. Such objects may be flung off, damage the saw chain or cause the saw to kickback.
What are the safety rules regarding cutting position and footing?
In order to keep control of your saw, always maintain a firm foothold. Never work on a ladder, in a tree or on any other insecure support. Never use the saw above shoulder height.
Position the chain saw in such a way that your body is clear of the cutting attachment whenever the engine is running.
Don’t put pressure on the saw when reaching the end of a cut. The pressure may cause the bar and rotating chain to pop out of the cut or kerf, go out of control and strike the operator or some other object.
What are reactive forces during cutting?
WARNING! Reactive forces, that may occur during any cut are kickback, pushback and pull-in. Reactive forces can be dangerous! In any chain saw, the powerful force used to cut wood can be reversed (and work against the operator).
If the rotating chain is suddenly stopped by contact with any solid object like a log or branch or is pinched, the reactive forces instantly occur. These reactive forces may result in loss of control which may, in turn, cause serious or fatal injury. An understanding of the causes of these reactive forces may help you avoid loss of control.
The most common reactive forces are:
– kickback
– pushback
– pull-in
What influences the force of kickback?
Many factors influence the occurrence and force of the kickback reaction. The type of bar and saw chain you use is a factor in the force of the kickback reaction.
The speed of contact at which the cutter contacts the object. Kickback force increase with the rate of impact.
The contact angle between the nose of the bar and the foreign object. Kickback is most pronounced in the upper quadrant of the bar nose.
The depth gauges: Improper lowering of the depth gauges also increases the risk of a kickback.
Saw chain cutter sharpness: A dull improperly sharpened chain may increase the risk of kickback. Always cut with a properly sharpened chain.
Kickback tendency increases as the radius or size of the guide bar nose increases. MAKITA have developed guide bars with small nose radius, to reduce the kickback tendency.
How does the chain brake help reduce kickback injury risk?
WARNING! No chain brake prevents kickback. These brakes are designed only to stop the chain, if activated. To ensure a proper operation of the chain brake, it must be properly maintained. Furthermore, there must be a sufficient distance between the operator and the bar to ensure that the chain brake has sufficient time to activate and stop the chain before potential contact with the operator.
How can I avoid kickback?
The best protection from personal-injury that may result from kickback is to avoid kickback situations:
1. Hold the chain saw firmly with both hands and maintain a secure grip.
2. Be aware of the location of the guide bar nose at all times.
3. Never bring the nose of the guide bar in contact with any object. Do not cut limbs with the nose of the guide bar. Be especially careful with small, tough limbs, small size brush and saplings which may easily catch the chain.
4. Don’t overreach.
5. Don’t cut above shoulder height.
6. Begin cutting and continue at full throttle.
7. Cut only one log at a time.
8. Use extreme caution when re-entering a previous cut.
9. Do not attempt plunge cuts (see Plunge-Cut Method section) if you are not experienced with these cutting techniques.
10. Be alert for shifting of the log or other forces that may cause the cut to close and pinch the chain.
11. Maintain saw chain properly. Cut with a correctly sharpened, properly tensioned chain at all times.
12. Stand to the side of the cutting path of the chain saw.
What is pushback and how can I avoid it?
Pushback occurs when the chain on the top of the bar is suddenly stopped when it is pinched, caught or encounters a foreign object in the wood. The reaction of the chain drives the saw straight back toward the operator causing loss of saw control. Pushback frequently occurs when the top of the bar is used for cutting.
To avoid pushback:
1. Be alert to forces or situations that may cause material to pinch the top of the chain.
2. Do not cut more than one log at a time.
3. Do not twist the saw when withdrawing the bar from a plunge cut or under buck cut, because the chain can pinch.
What is pull-in and how can I avoid it?
Pull-in occurs when the chain on the bottom of the bar is suddenly stopped. The chain on the bottom of the bar stops when it is pinched, caught or encounters a foreign object in the wood. The reaction of the chain pulls the saw forward, causing the operator to lose control.
Pull-in frequently occurs when the spike bar of the saw is not held securely against the tree or limb and when the chain is not rotating at full speed before it contacts the wood.
To avoid pull-in:
1. Always start a cut with the chain rotating at full speed and the spike bar in contact with the wood.
2. Pull-in may also be prevented by using plastic wedges to open the kerf or cut.
WARNING! Use extreme caution when cutting small size brush and saplings which may easily catch the chain and pull you off balance.
What should I consider before felling a tree?
Before felling a tree, consider carefully all conditions which may affect the direction of fall, including:
The intended direction of the fall.
The neutral lean of the tree.
Any unusually heavy limb structure.
Surrounding trees and obstacles.
The wind direction and speed.
WARNING! Always observe the general condition of the tree. Look for decay and rot in the trunk. If it is rotted inside, it could snap and fall toward the operator while being cut. Also look for broken or dead branches which could vibrate loose and fall on the operator. When felling on a slope, the operator should stand on the up-hill side.
When felling in the vicinity of roads, railways and power lines, etc., take extra precautions. Inform the police, utility company or railway authority before beginning to cut.
Maintain a distance of at least 2 1/2 tree lengths from the nearest person.
How do I perform the felling cuts?
1. First clear the tree base and work area from interfering limbs and brush and clean its lower portion an axe.
2. Establish a path of escape and remove all obstacles. This path should be opposite to the planned direction of the fall of the tree and at a 45° angle. An alternate path must also be selected. Place all tools and equipment a safe distance away from the tree, but not on the escape path.
3. If the tree has large buttress roots, cut into the largest buttresses vertically first (horizontally next) and remove.
4. Determine the placement of the felling notch. The felling notch when properly placed determines the direction in which the tree will fall. It is made perpendicular to the line of fall and should be as close to the ground as possible. Cut the felling notch (first cut horizontally, second cut angled down to meet it) to a depth of about one-fifth to one-fourth of the trunk diameter. It should be in no case higher than it is deep. Make the felling notch very carefully.
5. Begin the felling cut slightly higher than the felling notch and on the opposite side of the tree. Then cut horizontally through towards the felling notch. Apply the chain saw with its spikes directly behind the uncut portion of wood and cut toward the notch.
6. Leave approximately 1/10 of the tree diameter uncut! This is the hinge. Do not cut through the hinge because you could lose control of the direction of the fall.
7. Drive wedges into the felling cut where necessary to control the direction of the fall. Wedges should be of wood, light alloy or plastic – never of steel, which can cause kickback and damage to the chain.
8. Always keep to the side of the falling tree. When the tree starts to fall, shut off the engine, withdraw the bar and walk away on the pre-planned escape path. Watch out for falling limbs.
WARNING! Be extremely careful with partially fallen trees which are poorly supported. When the tree hangs or for some other reason does not fall completely, set the saw aside and pull the tree down with a cable winch, block and tackle or tractor. If you try to cut it down with your saw, you may be injured.
How do I use the Sectioning Method for felling large trees?
WARNING! Felling a tree that has a diameter greater than the length of the guide bar requires use of either the sectioning or plunge-cut method. These methods are extremely dangerous because they involve the use of the nose of the guide bar and can result in kickback. Only properly trained professionals should attempt these techniques.
For the sectioning method:
1. Make the first cut with the guide bar fanning in toward the hinge.
2. Then, using the bumper spike as a pivot, reposition the saw for the next cut. Avoid repositioning the saw more than necessary.
3. When repositioning for the next cut, keep the guide bar fully engaged in the kerf to keep the felling cut straight.
4. If the saw begins to pinch, insert a wedge to open the cut.
5. On the last cut, do not cut the hinge.
How do I use the Plunge-Cut Method for felling large trees?
WARNING! Felling a tree that has a diameter greater than the length of the guide bar requires use of either the sectioning or plunge-cut method. These methods are extremely dangerous because they involve the use of the nose of the guide bar and can result in kickback. Only properly trained professionals should attempt these techniques.
Timber having a diameter more than twice the length of the guide bar requires the use of the plunge-cut method before making the felling cut.
1. First, cut a large, wide notch.
2. Make a plunge cut in the center of the notch. The plunge cut is made with the guide bar nose.
3. Begin the plunge cut by applying the lower portion of the guide bar nose to the tree at an angle.
4. Cut until depth of the kerf is about the same as the width of the guide bar.
5. Next, align the saw in the direction in which the recess is to be cut.
6. With the saw at full throttle, insert the guide bar in the trunk.
7. Enlarge the plunge cut as shown in illustration.
WARNING! There is an extreme danger of kickback at this point (when enlarging the plunge cut). Extra caution must be taken to maintain control of the saw. To make the felling cut, follow the sectioning method described previously. If you are inexperienced with a chain saw plunge-cutting should not be attempted. Seek the help of a professional.
What are the safety instructions for limbing?
Limbing is removing the branches from a fallen tree.
WARNING! There is an extreme danger of kickback during the limbing operation. Do not work with the nose of the bar. Be extremely cautious and avoid contacting the log or other limbs with the nose of the guide bar. Do not stand on a log while limbing it – you may slip or the log may roll.
Start limbing by leaving the lower limbs to support the log off the ground. Always cut from the top of the limb. Do not underbuck freely hanging limbs. A pinch may result or the limb may fall, causing loss of control. If a pinch occurs, stop the engine and remove the saw, by lifting the limb.
WARNING! Be extremely cautious when cutting limbs under tension. The limbs could spring back toward the operator and cause loss of control of the saw or injury to the operator.
What are the safety instructions for bucking?
Bucking is cutting a log into sections.
1. When bucking, do not stand on the log. Make sure the log will not roll down-hill. If on a slope, stand on the up-hill side of the log. Watch out for rolling logs.
2. WARNING! Cut only one log at a time.
3. WARNING! Shattered wood should be cut very carefully. Sharp slivers of wood may be caught and flung in the direction of the operator of the saw.
4. When cutting small logs, use a sawhorse. Never permit another person to hold the log. Never hold the log with your leg or foot.
5. Logs under strain require special attention to prevent the saw from pinching. The first cut (relieving cut) is made on the compression side to relieve the stress on the log. The bucking cut (cross cut) is then made as shown (from the tension side). If the saw pinches, stop the engine and remove it from the log.
6. WARNING! Only properly trained professionals should work in an area where the logs, limbs and roots are tangled (i. e. a blowdown area). Working in blowdown areas is extremely hazardous.
7. WARNING! Drag the logs into a clear area before cutting. Pull out exposed and cleared logs first.
What are the general maintenance and repair guidelines?
Never operate a chain saw that is damaged, improperly adjusted or not completely or securely assembled. Follow the maintenance and repair instructions in the appropriate section of this manual.
WARNING! Always stop the engine and make sure that the chain is stopped before commencing any maintenance or repair work or cleaning the saw. Do not attempt any maintenance or repair work not described in this manual. Have such work performed by your MAKITA service shop only.
How should I maintain and store the chain saw?
Keep the chain, bar and sprocket clean and lubricated; replace worn sprockets or chains.
Keep the chain sharp. You can spot a dull chain when easy-to-cut wood becomes hard to cut and burn marks appear on the wood.
Keep the chain at proper tension. Tighten all nuts, bolts and screws except the carburetor adjustment screws after each use.
Keep spark plug and wire connection tight and clean.
Store saws in a high or locked place, away from children.
What are the main components of the DCS460/DCS510 chain saw?
1 Handle
2 Filter cover
3 Filter hood clip
4 Tubular handle
5 Hand guard (release for chain brake)
6 Muffler with spark arrester screen
7 Spike bar (toothed stop for holding saw steady against wood)
8 Chain tensioning screw
9 Retaining nuts
10 Chain catch
11 Sprocket guard
12 Decompression valve
13 Adjusting screw for oil pump (bottom side)
14 Adjusting screws for carburetor
15 Identification plate
16 Starter grip
17 Combination switch (Choke / Start / Stop)
18 Throttle lever
19 Safety locking button
20 Rear hand guard
21 Fuel tank cap
22 Fan housing with starting assembly
23 Oil tank cap
24 Guide bar
25 Chain (Blade)
What are the technical specifications for the DCS460 and DCS510?
| Specification | DCS460 | DCS510 | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Stroke volume | cu. in (cm³) | 2.8 (45.6) | 3.1 (50.4) |
| Bore | inch (mm) | 1.69 (43) | 1.77 (45) |
| Stroke | inch (mm) | 1.24 (31.4) | 1.24 (31.7) |
| Max. power at speed ¹⁾ | hp / rpm | 2.9 / 10,000 | 3.3 / 10,000 |
| Max. torque at speed ¹⁾ | Nm / rpm | 2.7 / 7,000 | 2.9 / 7,000 |
| Max. engine speed with bar and chain | rpm | 13,500 | 13,500 |
| Idling speed | rpm | 2,500 | 2,500 |
| Coupling speed | rpm | 3,900 | 3,900 |
| Sound Pressure Level at the operator’s ear at full load according to ANSI B 175.1 | db(A) | 103.2 | 103.9 |
| Sound Pressure Level at the bystander’s position (50 ft/15 m distance) according to ANSI B 175.1 | db(A) | 76.2 | 76.2 |
| Carburetor | Type | diaphragm carburetor with limiter caps | |
| Ignition system | Type | condenser ignition system | |
| Spark plug | Type | NGK BPMR 7A | |
| or spark plug | Type | BOSCH WSR-6F | |
| Electrode gap | inch (mm) | .020 (0.5) | |
| Fuel consumption at max. load per ISO 7293 ¹⁾ | kg/h | 1.1 | 1.2 |
| Specific consumption at max. load per ISO 7293 ¹⁾ | g/kWh | 500 | 480 |
| Fuel tank capacity | floz | 15.9 | |
| Chain oil tank capacity | floz | 9.1 | |
| Mixture ratio (fuel/two-stroke oil) | |||
| – when using MAKITA oil | 50:1 / 100:1 (HP-100) | ||
| – when using Aspen Alkalyt (two-stroke fuel) | 50:1 (2%) | ||
| – when using other oils | 40:1 (oil quality must be JASO FC or ISO EGD) | ||
| Chain brake | engages manually or in case of kickback | ||
| Sprocket pitch | inch | .325 or 3/8 | |
| Number of teeth | Z | 7 | |
| Chain type | see the Extract from the spare-parts list | ||
| Pitch / gauge | inch | .325 / 0.050 or 3/8 / 0.050 | |
| Guide bar, length of a cut | inch | 16 / 18 | |
| Guide-bar type | see the Extract from the spare-parts list | ||
| Weight (fuel tank empty, without chain, guide bar and accessories) | lbs | 12.1 | 12.1 |
¹⁾ For models without decompression valve
How do I mount the guide bar and saw chain?
CAUTION: Before doing any work on the guide bar or chain, always switch off the engine and pull the plug cap off the spark plug. Always wear protective gloves!
CAUTION: Start the chain saw only after having assembled it completely and inspected.
Use the universal wrench delivered with the chain saw for the following work. Put the chain saw on a stable surface.
1. Release the chain brake by pulling the hand guard (1) in direction of arrow (towards handle).
2. Unscrew retaining nuts (2).
3. Pull off the sprocket guard (3).
4. Remove the plastic transport cover (a) and dispose of properly.
5. Turn chain tensioning screw (4) to the left (counter-clockwise) until the pin (5) of the chain tensioner is underneath the threaded pin (6).
6. Put on the guide bar (7). Make sure that the pin (5) of the chain tensioner engages in the hole in the guide bar.
7. Lift the chain (9) over the sprocket (8).
CAUTION: Do not insert the chain between the chain sprocket and the disc.
8. Guide the chain from above about halfway into the groove (10) on the guide bar.
9. Place the chain over the chain catch (11) on the bottom.
CAUTION: Note that the cutting edges along the top of the chain must point in the direction of the arrow!
10. Pull the chain (9) around the sprocket nose (12) of the guide bar in the direction of the arrow.
11. Replace the sprocket guard (3).
12. Tighten the nuts (2) only hand-tight to begin with.
How do I tighten the saw chain?
1. Turn the chain tensioning screw (4) to the right (clockwise) until the saw chain catches in the groove on the lower side of the guide bar.
2. Slightly lift the end of the guide bar and turn the chain adjusting screw (4) to the right (clockwise) until the chain rests against the bottom side of the guide bar.
3. While still holding up the tip of the guide bar, tighten the retaining nuts (2) with the universal wrench.
Checking the chain tension: The tension of the chain is correct if the chain rests against the bottom side of the guide bar and can still be easily turned by hand. While doing so the chain brake must be released. Check the chain tension frequently – new chains tend to get longer during use! When checking the chain tension the engine must be switched off.
NOTE: It is recommended to use 2-3 chains alternatively. In order to guarantee uniform wear of the guide bar the bar should be turned over whenever replacing the chain.
How do I retighten the saw chain?
1. Loosen the nuts (2) about one turn with the universal wrench.
2. Raise the tip of the guide bar a little and turn the chain tensioning screw (4) to the right (clockwise) until the saw chain is again up against the bottom edge of the guide bar.
3. While keeping the tip of the guide bar raised, tighten the nuts (2) again with the universal wrench.
How does the chain brake work?
The DCS460 / DCS510 comes with an inertia chain brake as standard equipment. If kickback occurs due to contact of the guide-bar tip with wood, the chain brake will stop the chain through inertia if the kickback is sufficiently strong. The chain will stop within a fraction of a second.
The chain brake is installed to block the saw chain before starting it and to stop it immediately in case of an emergency.
IMPORTANT: NEVER run the saw with the chain brake activated (except for testing)! Doing so can very quickly cause extensive engine damage!
ALWAYS release the chain brake before starting the work!
Engaging the chain brake (braking): If the kickback is strong enough the sudden acceleration of the guide bar combined with the inertia of the hand guard (1) will automatically actuate the chain brake. To engage the chain brake manually, simply push the hand guard (1) forward (towards the tip of the saw) with your left hand (arrow 1).
Releasing the chain brake: Pull the hand guard (1) towards you (arrow 2) until you feel it catch. The brake is now released.
What type of fuel mixture should I use?
CAUTION: This saw is powered by mineral-oil products (gasoline (petrol) and oil). Be especially careful when handling gasoline (petrol). Avoid all flame or fire. Do not smoke (explosion hazard).
The engine of the chain saw is a high-efficiency two-stroke engine. It runs on a mixture of gasoline and two-stroke engine oil.
The engine is designed for unleaded regular gasoline with a min. octane value of 91 ROZ. In case no such fuel is available, you can use fuel with a higher octane value. This will not affect the engine.
In order to obtain an optimum engine output and to protect your health and the environment use unleaded fuel only. Gasoline which contains alcohol should not used in MAKITA products.
For lubricating the engine use a two-stroke engine oil (quality grade: JASO FC or ISO EGD), which is added to the fuel.
The correct mixture ratio:
50:1 when using MAKITA high-performance two-stroke engine oil, i. e. mix 50 parts gasoline with 1 part oil.
100:1 when using MAKITA HP 100 high-performance two-stroke engine oil, i. e. mix 100 parts gasoline with 1 part oil.
40:1 when using other two-stroke engine oils, i. e. mix 40 parts gasoline with 1 part oil.
NOTE: For preparing the fuel-oil mixture first mix the entire oil quantity with half of the fuel required, then add the remaining fuel. Thoroughly shake the mixture before filling it into the chain saw tank.
| Gasoline | 40:1 other oil | 50:1 MAKITA oil | 100:1 MAKITA oil |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1.0 US-gal. (3.7 l) | 3.2 fl oz. (94 cm³) | 2.5 fl oz. (75 cm³) | 1.3 fl oz. (38 cm³) |
| 2.5 US-gal. (9.4 l) | 8.0 fl oz. (236 cm³) | 6.4 fl oz. (189 cm³) | 3.2 fl oz. (94 cm³) |
| 5.0 US-gal. (18.9 l) | 16.0 fl oz. (473 cm³) | 12.8 fl oz. (378 cm³) | 6.4 fl oz. (189 cm³) |
It is not wise to add more engine oil than specified to ensure safe operation. This will only result in a higher production of combustion residues which will pollute the environment and clog the exhaust channel in the cylinder as well as the muffler. In addition, fuel consumption will rise and performance will decrease.
How should fuel be stored?
What should I do about skin and eye contact with fuel or oil?
What type of chain oil should I use?
Use an oil with adhesive additive for lubricating the chain and guide bar. The adhesive additive prevents the oil from being flung off the chain too quickly.
We recommend the use of chain oil which is bio-degradable in order to protect the environment. The use of bio-degradable oil may even be required by local regulations.
The chain oil BIOTOP sold by MAKITA is made of special vegetable oils and is 100% bio-degradable. BIOTOP has been granted the “blue angel” (Blauer Umweltschutz-Engel) for being particularly environment-friendly (RAL UZ 48).
Bio-degradable oil is stable only for a limited period of time. It should be used within 2 years from the date of manufacture (printed on the container).
Important note on bio-degradable chain oils: If you are not planning to use the saw again for an extended period of time, empty the oil tank and put in a small amount of regular engine oil (SAE 30), and then run the saw for a time. This is necessary to flush out all remaining bio-degradable oil from the oil tank, oil-feed system, chain and guide bar, as many such oils tend to leave sticky residues over time, which can cause damage to the oil pump or other parts. The next time you use the saw, fill the tank with BIOTOP chain oil again.
NEVER USE WASTE OIL. Waste oil is very dangerous for the environment and contains high amounts of carcinogenic substances. Residues in waste oil result in a high degree of wear and tear at the oil pump and the sawing device. In case of damage caused by using waste oil or unappropriate chain oil the product guarantee will be null and void.
How do I refuel the saw and add chain oil?
FOLLOW THE SAFETY PRECAUTIONS! Be careful and cautious when handling fuels. The engine must be switched off!
1. Thoroughly clean the area around the caps, to prevent dirt from getting into the fuel or oil tank.
2. Unscrew the tank cap (use the universal wrench if necessary) and fill tank with fuel mixture or saw chain oil up to the bottom edge of the filling neck. Be careful not to spill fuel or chain oil!
3. Screw on the tank cap by hand all the way.
4. After refuelling, clean screw cap, tank and check for leakages.
Lubricating the chain: During operation there must always be sufficient chain oil in the chain-oil tank to provide good chain lubrication. One filling is sufficient for about one half-hour of continuous operation. During this procedure check whether there is enough chain oil in the tank and refill if necessary. Do this only with the engine turned off! Screw on the tank cap by hand all the way.
How do I check the chain lubrication?
Never work with the chain saw without sufficient chain lubrication. Otherwise the service life of the chain and guide bar will be reduced. Before starting work check the oil level in the tank and the oil feed.
Check the oil feed rate as described below:
1. Start the chain saw (see „Starting the engine“).
2. Hold the running chain saw approx. 6″ (15 cm) above a trunk or the ground (use an appropriate base).
3. If the lubrication is sufficient, you will see a light oil trace because oil will be flung off the sawing device. Pay attention to the direction the wind is blowing and avoid unnecessary exposure to the oil spray!
Note: After the saw has been turned off it is normal for residual chain oil to drip from the oil feed system, the guide bar and the chain for a time. This does not constitute a defect! Place the saw on a suitable surface.
How do I adjust the chain lubrication?
The engine must be switched off.
You can adjust the oil pump feed rate with the adjusting screw (1). The adjusting screw is on the bottom side of the housing. The oil pump comes factory-set to a medium feed rate.
To adjust the supply rate, use a small screwdriver to turn the adjusting screw:
• to the right for a faster
• to the left for a slower
oil feed rate.
Pick one of the three settings depending on the length of the guide bar (adjustment range about 90°).
While working make sure there is enough chain oil in the tank. If necessary, add oil.
To ensure troublefree operation of the oil pump the oil guide groove at the crank case (2) and the oil inlet bore in the guide bar (3) must be cleaned regularly.
How do I start the engine (Cold Start)?
Do not start the chain saw until after it is completely assembled and checked!
1. Move at least 10 feet (3 m) away from the place where the chain saw was fuelled.
2. Make sure you have a secure footing, and place the saw on the ground in such a way that the guide bar and chain are not near anything.
3. Actuate the chain brake (block it).
4. Hold the front handle firmly with one hand and press the saw against the ground.
5. Hold the down rear handguard with your right foot as shown.
6. Move the combination switch (1) up (choke position). This also actuates the half-throttle lock.
7. Pull the starter cable (2) out slowly until you feel resistance (the piston is now just before top dead center).
8. Push in decompression valve (5).
9. Now pull it quickly and powerfully until you hear the first audible ignition.
CAUTION: Do not pull the starter cable more than about 50 cm/ 20″ out, and let it back in slowly by hand.
10. Push in decompression valve (5).
11. Move the combination switch (1) to the central “ON” position.
12. Pull the starter cable again, quickly and firmly. As soon as the engine is running, grasp the rear handle (the safety lock button (3) is actuated by the palm of the hand) and press the throttle trigger (4).
13. The half-throttle lock will disengage and the engine will now idle.
CAUTION: The engine must be put in idle immediately after starting. If this is not done, the clutch can be damaged.
14. Now disengage the chain brake.
How do I start the engine (Warm Start)?
As described above for cold starting, but before starting push the combination switch (1) up (Choke position) and then right away back to the middle “ON” position. This is only to engage the half-throttle lock. If the engine doesn’t start after 2 or 3 pulls, repeat the entire starting procedure as described for cold starting.
How do I stop the engine?
How do I check the chain brake?
The chain brake must be checked before every use of the saw!
1. Start the engine as described above (have a secure footing, place the chain saw on the ground so that the chain and guide bar are not near anything).
2. Hold the front handle firmly, with your other hand on the rear grip.
3. Let the engine run at medium speed and push the handguard (6) in the direction of the arrow using the back of your hand, until the chain brake engages. The chain should now stop immediately.
4. Bring the engine back to idle and release the chain brake.
Caution: If the chain does not stop immediately in this test, turn off the engine immediately. Do NOT use the chain saw in this condition! Contact a MAKITA service center.
How do I set up the saw for working in winter?
In order to prevent carburetor icing in conditions of low temperature combined with high humidity, and below +5°C (40° F) in order to get up to operating temperature faster, heated air can be taken from the cylinder.
1. Remove the cover (see “Cleaning the air filter”).
2. Remove the insert (7) and insert it as shown for winter operation (symbol with snowflake on top).
If the temperature is above + 5°C (40°F) the engine needs to induct cold air (insert positioned with sun symbol on top). If this is not done, the cylinder and piston can be damaged!
For temperatures above + 5°C (40°F) turn the insert 180° so that after it is inserted the induction opening (8) is closed (Normal operation – sun symbol on top).
3. Put the cover back on.
How do I adjust the carburetor?
CAUTION: Carburetor adjustment must only be done with the engine warm, a clean air filter and the saw chain properly tensioned and mounted. Always have a MAKITA service center do carburetor adjustment, since incorrect adjustment can cause considerable damage to the engine.
Due to new emissions regulations, the adjustment range of screws (H) and (L) has been limited. This adjustment range limitation (to about 180 degrees) prevents over-rich settings.
Factory setting of adjustment screws (H) and (L): Screwed out almost all the way (counter-clockwise).
For proper adjustment, proceed as follows:
1. Checking adjustment screw (H): Before starting, make sure that adjustment screw (H) is unscrewed all the way (until you feel a stop). Limitations do not protect against too lean running (insufficient fuel)!
2. Start engine and let it warm up (3-5 minutes)
3. Set idle (S+): Set the idle speed per the technical specifications. Turning the adjusting screw (S) in (clockwise) increases the idle speed. Turning it out (counter-clockwise) lowers the idle speed. The chain or blade must not move in idle!
4. Check acceleration (L+): When the throttle is pressed, the engine should go smoothly from idle to high speed. Unscrew adjustment screw (L) counter-clockwise in small steps until acceleration is good.
5. Set the top speed (H+): Set the top speed with a minimal adjustment to screw (H) in accordance with the technical data. Screwing in adjustment screw (H) clockwise increases engine speed. Never exceed the top speed under any circumstances!
6. Checking the idle speed (S+): After setting the maximum permissible speed, check the idle speed (the saw chain or cutting tool must not turn in idle). Repeat the adjustment procedure starting with step 3 above until idle speed, acceleration, and speed are all good.
How do I sharpen the saw chain?
CAUTION: Before doing any work on the guide bar or chain, always switch off the engine and pull the plug cap off the spark plug. Always wear protective gloves!
The chain needs sharpening when:
• The sawdust produced when sawing damp wood looks like wood flour.
• The chain penetrates the wood only under great pressure.
• The cutting edge is visibly damaged.
• The saw is pulled to the left or right when sawing. This is caused by uneven sharpening of the chain.
Important: Sharpen frequently, but without removing too much metal! Generally, 2 or 3 strokes of the file will be enough. Have the chain resharpened at a service center when you have already sharpened it yourself several times.
Proper sharpening:
• CAUTION: Use only chains and guide bars designed for this saw (see the Extract from the spare-parts list)!
• All cutters must be of the same length (dimension a). Cutters with different lengths result in rough running of the chain and can cause cracks in the chain.
• The minimum cutter length: 0.11″ (3 mm). Do not resharpen the chain when the minimum cutter length has been reached; at this point, the chain must be replaced.
• The depth of the cut is determined by the difference in height between the depth limiter (round nose) and the cutting edge. The best results are obtained with a depth-limiter depth of .025″ (0.64 mm).
• CAUTION: Excessive depth increases the risk of kickback!
• The sharpening angle (α) must be identical for all cutters! 25° for chain type 486, 496.
• The teeth will have the proper angle (β) automatically if the proper round file is used. 60° for chain type 486, 496.
• Different angles result in a roughly, irregularly running chain, increase wear and tear and cause chain breakage.
Files and how to work with them:
• Use a special saw chain round file for sharpening. Standard round files are unsuitable.
• Type 486: Use 11/64″ (4,5 mm) dia. round saw-chain file.
• Type 496: Use 7/32″ (5,5 mm) dia. round saw-chain file.
• The file should cut only when pushed forwards (arrow). Lift the file when leading it backwards.
• First sharpen the shortest cutter. The length of this cutter is then the standard for all other cutters of the chain.
• New saw teeth must be filed to the exact same shape as the used teeth, including on their running surfaces.
• File depending on chain type (10° to the guide bar).
• A file holder makes file guidance easier. It is marked for the correct sharpening angle of α = 25° (keep the marks parallel with the chain when filing) and limits the cut depth to the correct 4/5 of the file diameter.
• After having sharpened the chain, the height of the depth limiter must be checked by means of a chain gauge.
• Correct even the smallest excess height with a special flat file (1).
• Round off the front of the depth limiter (2).
How do I clean the brake band and sprocket interior?
CAUTION: Before doing any work on the guide bar or chain, always switch off the engine and pull the plug cap off the spark plug. Always wear protective gloves!
CAUTION: Start the chain saw only after having assembled it completely and inspected.
1. Remove the sprocket guard (1) (See “PUTTING INTO OPERATION” steps for removing guard) and clean the interior with a brush.
2. Turn the chain tensioning screw (2) to the left (counter-clockwise) until pin (3) of the chain tensioner is underneath the threaded pin (4).
3. Remove the chain (5) and guide bar (6).
NOTE: Make sure there are no residues or foreign matter remaining in the oil guide groove (7) or on the chain tensioner (3).
NOTE: The chain brake is a very important safety device and like any other component subject to normal wear and tear. Regular inspection and maintenance are important for your own safety and must be done by a MAKITA service center.
How do I clean the guide bar?
How do I replace the saw chain and check the sprocket?
CAUTION: Use only chains and guide bars designed for this saw (see the Extract from the spare-parts list)!
1. Check the sprocket before mounting a new chain. Worn out sprockets (8) may damage the new chain and must therefore be replaced.
2. Remove the sprocket guard (See “PUTTING INTO OPERATION” steps for removing guard).
3. Remove the chain and guide bar.
4. Remove circlip (9).
CAUTION: The circlip will pop out of the groove. When removing it, hold your thumb against it to prevent it from popping off.
5. Remove thrust washer (11).
6. If the chain sprocket (8) is worn, the clutch drum cpl. (12) must be replaced. For the part number consult the “Extract from the spare parts list”.
7. Put on the washer disc (13), new clutch drum cpl. (12), cup washer (11) and new circlip (9).
8. For replacing the guide bar, chain, and sprocket see “PUTTING INTO OPERATION A-H”.
NOTE:
• Don’t use a new chain on a worn chain sprocket. By the time 2 chains have worn, the sprocket has become worn out, so it should be replaced at least at every second chain replacement.
• To distribute the chain oil evenly, run a new chain at half-throttle for a few minutes before use.
• New chains stretch, so check the chain tension frequently (see “Checking the chain tension”).
What if I need to change the chain type (e.g., from .325″ to 3/8″)?
When changing chain types, always make sure to use the clutch drum cpl. (12). It may be necessary to change the clutch drum cpl.
IMPORTANT: If the chain type is changed from .325″ to 3/8″, the chip deflector must be modified. Always wear protective gloves!
1. Before using a 3/8″ saw chain, be sure to first cut out the marked section of the chip deflector (14)!
2. To do this, first cut along the marking (15) with a sharp knife and then cut across to remove the piece.
NOTE: If switching to chain type .325″ it will be necessary to install a new chip deflector (see „Extract from the spare parts list“ for the part number).
How do I clean the air filter?
CAUTION: To prevent eye injury, always wear eye protection when cleaning the filter with compressed air! Do not use fuel to clean the air filter.
1. Disengage the cover clasp (1) with the universal wrench and take off the cover (2).
2. Push up the combination switch (3) (Choke position) to prevent dirt particles from falling into the carburetor.
3. Unhook the clasp (4) in the direction of the arrow with a finger or the universal wrench.
4. Pull the air filter (5) up and out.
IMPORTANT: Cover the intake opening with a clean cloth to prevent dirt particles from getting into the carburetor.
Choosing the right filter: The fleece filter is for use in dry or dusty conditions. The nylon filter (available as accessory) is for use in damp conditions.
Cleaning the fleece filter: Carefully tap out dust or carefully blow out dust from the inside with compressed air. Do not brush the fleece, as this will force dirt particles into the fabric. If the filter is very dirty, it can be washed in lukewarm water with regular dishwashing detergent. Note that the fleece filter does not need to be cleaned until there is a noticeable loss of power. If cleaning the filter does not bring an improvement in performance, it is time to replace it.
Cleaning the nylon filter: Use a soft brush or blow out dirt from the inside with compressed air. If the filter is very dirty, it can be washed in lukewarm water with regular dishwashing detergent. Clean frequently (several times a day) when working in very dusty or dirty conditions. Full engine power is possible only with a clean air filter!
5. Let the air filter dry completely.
6. Put the top and bottom sections back together.
7. Before assembling the air filter, check the choke flap for any dirt particles. If there are any, remove them with a brush.
CAUTION: If the air filter becomes damaged, replace immediately! Pieces of cloth or large dirt particles can destroy the engine!
8. Insert the air filter (5) and press the clasp (4) in the direction of the arrow until it engages.
9. Move the combination switch (3) down and press the throttle (6) once all the way, to deactivate the half-throttle lock.
10. Put the cover (2) back on and affix it with the cover clasps (1).
How do I replace the spark plug?
CAUTION: Do not touch the spark plug or plug cap if the engine is running (high voltage). Switch off the engine before starting any maintenance work. A hot engine can cause burns. Wear protective gloves!
The spark plug must be replaced in case of damage to the insulator, electrode erosion (burn) or if the electrodes are very dirty or oily.
1. Remove the filter cover (see “Cleaning the air filter”).
2. Pull the plug cap (7) off the spark plug. Use only the combination wrench supplied with the saw to remove the spark plug.
Electrode gap: The electrode gap must be .020″ (0.5 mm).
CAUTION: Use only the following spark plugs: NGK BPMR 7A or BOSCH WSR 6F.
How do I check the ignition spark?
1. With the spark plug removed and the spark plug cap firmly seated, use insulated pliers to hold the spark plug (8) against the cylinder (not the spark plug hole).
2. Put combination switch (9) in the ON position.
3. Pull the starter cable hard.
4. If the function is correct, an ignition spark must be visible near the electrodes.
How do I check the muffler screws?
1. Remove the retaining plate (10) by unscrewing screws (11, short) and (12, long).
2. The muffler screws are now accessible through the blind holes and can be checked for tight fit. If they are loose, hand-tighten them (Important – do not overtighten!).
How do I replace the starter cable?
CAUTION: Switch off the engine and wear protective gloves.
1. Unscrew four screws (1).
2. Remove fan housing (2).
3. Remove the air guide (3) from the fan housing.
CAREFUL! Injury hazard! Do not unscrew screw (7) if the return spring is under tension. If the starter cable is to be replaced although it is not broken, it will be necessary to first de-tension the cable drum return spring (13).
4. To de-tension: use the grip to pull the cable all the way out of the fan housing. Hold the cable drum with one hand, and with the other push the cable into the space (6). Carefully let the drum turn until the return spring is no longer under tension.
5. Unscrew screw (7) and remove washer (8).
6. Carefully remove the cable drum (5).
7. Remove any cable pieces.
8. Thread a new cable (dia. 0.14″ (3.5 mm), length 38.6″ (980 mm)) as shown in the illustration (don’t forget the washer (10)) and knot both ends as shown.
9. Pull knot (11) into the cable drum (5).
10. Pull knot (12) into the starter grip (9).
11. Put the drum on its spindle and turn it slightly until the return spring engages.
12. Screw in and tighten screw (7) and washer (8).
13. Guide the cable into the space (6) on the drum and use the cable to turn the drum two turns clockwise.
14. Hold the cable drum with your left hand and with your right hand untwist the cable, pull it tight and hold it.
15. Carefully release the cable drum. The spring will wind the cable around the drum.
16. Repeat three or four times. The starter grip should now be held upright on the fan housing.
NOTE: With the cable pulled all the way out, it must still be possible to turn the pulley another 1/4 turn against the return spring.
CAUTION: Danger of injury! Secure the cable grip when pulled out! It will whip back if the cable pulley is released by accident.
17. Reassemble fan housing (see Mounting the fan housing).
How do I replace the return spring pack?
CAUTION: Switch off the engine and wear protective gloves.
1. Disassemble the fan housing and cable drum (see steps for replacing starter cable, including de-tensioning the spring).
CAREFUL! Injury hazard! The return spring can pop out! Always wear eye protection and protective gloves!
2. Lightly tap the fan housing on a wooden surface with the entire surface of the hollow side, and hold it down. Now lift the fan housing carefully and in small steps. This will allow the return spring pack (13), which should now have fallen out, to relax in a controlled manner if the return spring has popped out of the plastic pack.
3. Carefully insert a new return spring pack and push it in until it clicks.
4. Install the cable drum with washer (8) and bolt (7).
5. Tension the spring (see steps for replacing starter cable).
6. Reassemble fan housing (see Mounting the fan housing).
How do I mount the fan housing?
1. Insert the air guide (3) in the fan housing so that the two recesses (4) engage.
2. Position the fan housing against the housing, press against it lightly and pull the starter grip until the starter engages.
3. Tighten screws (1).
How do I clean the cylinder area?
CAUTION: Switch off the engine and wear protective gloves.
1. Remove cover.
2. Remove the fan housing.
CAUTION: To prevent eye injury, always wear eye protection when cleaning the filter with compressed air!
3. The entire area (14) can now be brushed clean or cleaned with compressed air. A bottle brush can come in handy for cleaning out the cylinder ribs.
How do I replace the fuel filter?
The felt filter (15) of the fuel filter can become clogged. It is recommended to replace the fuel filter once every three months in order to ensure unimpeded fuel flow to the carburetor.
To remove the fuel filter for replacement, pull it out through the tank filler neck using a piece of wire bent at one end to form a hook.
How do I replace or clean the spark arrester screen?
The spark arrester screen should be checked and cleaned regulary.
1. Loosen the screw (16) and remove the spark arrester screen (17).
Caution: Do not use sharp or pointed objects for screen cleaning. Damaged or misformed screen wires may result.
2. Clean the screen gently, typically with a brush.
3. Reassembly the spark arrester screen and tighten the screw.
What is the recommended periodic maintenance schedule?
To ensure long life, prevent damage and ensure the full functioning of the safety features the following maintenance must be performed regularly. Guarantee claims can be recognized only if this work is performed regularly and properly. Failure to perform the prescribed maintenance work can lead to accidents! The user of the chain saw must not perform maintenance work which is not described in the instruction manual. All such work must be carried out by a MAKITA service center.
| Frequency | Component | Action | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| General | Chain saw | Clean exterior, check for damage. | In case of damage, have repaired by a qualified service center immediately |
| Saw chain | Sharpen regularly, replace in good time | ||
| Chain brake | Have inspected regularly at an authorized service center | ||
| Guide bar | Turn over to ensure even wear of bearing surfaces. Replace in good time | ||
| Starter cable | Check for damage. Replace if damaged. | ||
| Before each start | Saw chain | Inspect for damage and sharpness. Check chain tension | |
| Guide bar | Check for damage | ||
| Chain lubrication | Functional check | ||
| Chain brake | Functional check | ||
| Combination switch, Safety locking button, Throttle lever | Functional check | ||
| Fuel/oil tank cap | Check for tightness | ||
| Every day | Air filter | Clean (several times daily if necessary) | |
| Guide bar | Check for damage, clean oil intake bore | ||
| Guide bar support | Clean, in particular the oil guide groove | ||
| Idle speed | Check (chain must not run) | ||
| Every week | Fan housing | Clean to maintain good cooling air flow. | |
| Cylinder area | Clean to maintain good cooling air flow. | ||
| Spark plug | Check and replace if necessary | ||
| Muffler | Check tightness of mounting, Check screws | ||
| Spark arrester screen | Clean | ||
| Chain guide | Check | ||
| Every 3 months | Fuel filter | Replace | |
| Fuel, oil tanks | Clean | ||
| Annually | Chain saw | Check at an authorized service center | |
| Storage | Chain saw | Clean exterior, check for damage. | In case of damage, have repaired by a qualified service center immediately |
| Guide bar/chain | Demount, clean and oil slightly. Clean the guide groove of the guide bar | ||
| Fuel, oil tanks | Empty and clean | ||
| Carburetor | Run empty |
Who should perform maintenance and repair?
Why should I use original MAKITA spare parts?
What does the MAKITA guarantee cover and exclude?
MAKITA guarantees the highest quality and will therefore reimburse all costs for repair by replacement of damaged parts resulting from material or production faults occurring within the guarantee period after purchase. Please note that in some countries particular guarantee conditions may exist.
Please note that we cannot accept any responsibility for damage caused by:
• Disregard of the instruction manual.
• Non-performance of the required maintenance and cleaning.
• Incorrect carburetor adjustment.
• Normal wear and tear.
• Obvious overloading due to permanent exceeding of the upper performance limits.
• Use of guide bars and chains which have not been approved.
• Use of guide bar and chain lengths which have not been approved.
• Use of force, improper use, misuse or accidents.
• Damage from overheating due to dirt on the fan housing.
• Work on the chain saw by unskilled persons or inappropriate repairs.
• Use of unsuitable spare parts or parts which are not original MAKITA parts, insofar as they have caused the damage.
• Use of unsuitable or old oil.
• Damage related to conditions arising from lease or rent contracts.
Cleaning, servicing and adjustment work is not covered by the guarantee. All repairs covered by the guarantee must be performed by a MAKITA service center.
How can I troubleshoot common problems with the chain saw?
| Malfunction | System | Observation | Cause |
|---|---|---|---|
| Chain does not run | Chain brake | Engine runs | Chain brake actuated. |
| Engine does not start or only with difficulty | Ignition system | Ignition spark | Malfunction in fuel supply system, compression system, mechanical malfunction. |
| No ignition spark | Switch on STOP, fault or short-circuit in the wiring, plug cap or spark plug defective. | ||
| Fuel supply | Fuel tank is filled | Choke in wrong position, carburetor defective, fuel filter dirty, fuel line bent or interrupted. | |
| Compression system | Inside | Cylinder base packing ring defective, radial shaft packings defective, cylinder or piston rings defective. Spark plug does not seal. | |
| Mechanical malfunction | Outside Starter does not engage | Spring in starter broken, broken parts inside the engine. | |
| Warm start difficulties | Carburetor | Fuel tank is filled Ignition spark | Wrong carburetor adjustment. |
| Engine starts, but dies immediately | Fuel supply | Fuel tank is filled | Wrong idling adjustment, fuel filter or carburetor dirty. Tank venting defective, fuel line interrupted, cable defective, STOP switch defective. Decompression valve dirty. |
| Insufficient power | Several systems may be involved simultaneously | Engine is idling | Air filter dirty, wrong carburetor adjustment, muffler clogged, exhaust channel in cylinder clogged, spark arrester screen clogged. |
| No chain lubrication | Oil tank/pump | No oil on the chain | Oil tank empty. Oil guide groove dirty. Oil-pump adjusting screw incorrectly adjusted. |
What are the part numbers for common replacement parts and accessories?
Use only original MAKITA parts. For repairs and replacement of other parts, see your MAKITA service center.
Common Parts:
| Pos. | MAKITA-No. | Qty. | Denomination |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | 445 040 641 | 1 | Sprocket nose bar .325″, 16″ |
| 445 045 641 | 1 | Sprocket nose bar .325″, 18″ | |
| 2 | 513 486 666 | 1 | Saw chain .325″ for 16″ |
| 513 486 672 | 1 | Saw chain .325″ for 18″ | |
| 1 | 443 045 661 | 1 | Sprocket nose bar 3/8″, 18″ |
| 2 | 513 496 664 | 1 | Saw chain 3/8″ for 18″ |
| 3 | 952 100 633 | 1 | Chain protector for 16″ |
| 952 100 643 | 1 | Chain protector for 18″ | |
| 4 | 957 213 600 | 1 | Sprocket guard, cpl. |
| 5 | 923 208 004 | 2 | Hexagonal nut M8 |
| 6 | 941 719 131 | 1 | Universal wrench SW 19/13 |
| 7 | 940 827 000 | 1 | Offset screwdriver |
| 8 | 944 340 001 | 1 | Carburetor screwdriver |
| 9 | 010 114 010 | 1 | Fuel filter |
| 10 | 181 114 202 | 1 | Fuel tank cap, cpl. |
| 11 | 963 229 036 | 1 | O-Ring 29,3×3,6 mm |
| 12 | 170 114 061 | 1 | Oil tank cap, cpl. |
| 13 | 963 225 030 | 1 | O-Ring 25×3 mm |
| 14 | 965 603 021 | 1 | Spark plug |
| 15 | 108 164 020 | 1 | Starter cable 3,5×980 mm |
| 16 | 181 173 010 | 1 | Air filter (nylon) |
| 16 | 181 173 100 | 1 | Air filter (fleece) |
| 17 | 181 163 020 | 1 | Return spring pack, complete |
| 18 | 181 223 310 | 1 | Clutch drum cpl. .325″, 7-tooth |
| 181 223 320 | 1 | Clutch drum cpl. .3/8″, 7-tooth | |
| 19 | 927 408 000 | 1 | Circlip |
| 20 | 021 224 010 | 1 | Disc |
| 21 | 181 174 250 | 1 | Spark collector, cpl. |
Accessories (not delivered with the chain saw):
| Pos. | MAKITA-No. | Qty. | Denomination |
|---|---|---|---|
| 25 | 953 100 090 | 1 | Chain gauge |
| 26 | 953 004 010 | 1 | File handle |
| 27 | 953 003 100 | 1 | Round file, dia. 11/64″, (4,5 mm) |
| 29 | 953 003 040 | 1 | Round file, dia. 7/32″, (5,5 mm) |
| 30 | 953 003 060 | 1 | Flat file |
| 31 | 953 030 020 | 1 | File holder 11/64″ |
| 32 | 953 009 000 | 1 | File holder 7/32″ |
| 33 | 950 233 210 | 1 | Tachometer |
| – | 949 000 035 | 1 | Combined can (for 5l fuel, 2.5l chain oil) |
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