BERNETTE CHICAGO 7 (03) PDF MANUAL

FREE ENGLISH BERNETTE CHICAGO 7 (03) PDF USER GUIDE

FREE ENGLISH BERNETTE CHICAGO 7 (03) PDF USER MANUAL

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FREE ENGLISH BERNETTE CHICAGO 7 (03) PDF REFERENCE MANUAL

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How do you connect the machine?

  • Place the machine on a stable table.

  • Connect the power line cord to the machine by inserting the 2-hole plug into the mains plug socket.

  • Connect the power line plug to the wall outlet.

  • Turn on the power switch.

    • The sewing lamp will light up when the switch is turned on.

What is “Polarized plug information?”

This appliance has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other), to reduce the risk of electrical shock; this plug will fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not modify the plug in any way.

How do you use the foot control?

With the sewing machine turned off, insert the foot control plug into its connector on the sewing machine.

  • Turn on the sewing machine, and then slowly depress the foot control to start sewing.
  • Release the foot control to stop the sewing machine.

How do you use the sewing table?

  • Keep the snap-in sewing table horizontal, and pull it in the direction of the arrow.
  • The inside of the snap-in sewing table is used as an accessory box.
  • To open the accessory box, tilt the cover towards you.

How do you wind the bobbin?

  • Place the thread and spool holder onto the spool pin. For smaller spools of thread use the small spool holder.

  • Snap the thread into the upper thread guide.

  • Wind the thread clockwise around the bobbin winder tension disc.

  • Insert the thread end through one of the inner holes in the bobbin as illustrated and place the empty bobbin on the spindle.

  • Push the bobbin to right.

  • Hold the thread tail securely in one hand.

  • Press on the foot control or the Start/Stop button to start winding the bobbin.

    • After the bobbin has wound a few turns, stop the machine.

  • Cut the thread near the hole of the bobbin.

  • Continue filling the bobbin until it is full.

    • The motor stops automatically when the bobbin is full.

  • Press the Start/Stop button or release the foot control to stop the machine.

  • Push the bobbin winder spindle to left.

  • Cut the thread and then remove the bobbin.

How do you insert the bobbin?

  • When pushing the locking knob (1), the bobbin cover opens.

  • The bobbin cover can be pulled out of the guide (2).

  • Inserting the bobbin in the bobbin holder with the thread running in counter-clockwise direction.

  • To make sure that the thread is pulled into the tension spring of the bobbin holder, press a finger slightly onto the bobbin while pulling. As a check you must feel a resistance in the thread feed.

  • Pull the thread at the arrow markings into the stitch plate thread guide from (B) to ©.

    • To cut off excess thread pull the thread back over the cutting-off blade at point ©.
    • When closing, insert the lid in the guide (2) on the left. Afterwards press down on the right until the locking knob (1) engages.

  • Pull the thread along the arrow marking through the slit under the finger (A) as far as the pulley (B).

How do you thread the upper thread?

  • Place the thread spool on the spool pin so that the thread comes from the front of the spool, then place the spool cap at the end of the spool pin.
  • Start by raising the needle to its highest point, and also raise the presser foot to release the tension discs.
  • Pull the thread from the spool through the upper thread guide.
  • Guide the thread around the thread guide pulling the thread through the pre-tension spring as illustrated.
  • Then lead it further down and around the bottom part of the take-up lever cover.
  • Pull it up and insert the thread from the right to the left through the slotted eye of the take-up lever and then take it downwards again.
  • Guide the thread through the wire loop.
  • Pull the end of the thread through the needle from the front to the rear, and pull out about 10 cm of thread.
  • Use the face plate thread cutter to cut excess needle thread.
  • Use the needle threader to thread the needle (refer to next page for instruction).

How do you use the needle threader?

  • Lower the needle threader lever slowly and pull the thread through the thread guide as illustrated and then to the right.

  • Raise the needle to its highest position and lower the presser foot.

  • The needle threader automatically turns to the threading position and the hook pin passes through the needle eye.

  • Pull the thread to the right, guiding it to the front of the needle.

  • Hold the thread loosely and release the lever slowly.

    • The hook will turn and pass the thread through the needle eye forming a loop.
    • Pull the thread through the needle eye.

How do you replace the needle?

  • Loosen the needle clamp screw and tighten it again after inserting the new needle. The flat side of the shaft must be at the back.
  • Insert the needle as far up as it will go.

How do you use the thread cutter?

The thread cutter serves two purposes:

  1. Cut the thread after threading the needle
  2. Cut the thread after finishing a seam
  • To cut the thread after completing your work raise the presser foot.
  • Remove the fabric, draw the threads to the left side of the face cover and cut using the thread cutter.
  • The threads are cut at the proper length to start the next seam.

How do you adjust the thread tension?

Basic thread tension setting: «4»

  • To increase the tension, turn the dial to the next number up.

  • To reduce the tension, turn the dial to the next number down.

  • Thread tension is too loose for straight stitch sewing.

    • Turn dial to higher number.

  • Thread tension is too tight for straight stitch sewing.

    • Turn dial to lower number.

How do you raise or drop the feed dog?

With the sewing table detached, the feed dog lever can be located on the back of the free arm.

  • Sliding the lever to position (a) will raise the feed dog.
  • Sliding the lever to position (b) will lower the feed dog, for example during button sewing or freehand embroidery.
  • If you wish to continue sewing normally, slide the lever to position (a) in order to raise the feed dog.
  • The feed dog will not be raised if you do not turn the handwheel, even if the lever is slid to the right.
  • Make a complete turn to raise the feed dog.

How do you alter the presser foot pressure?

The presser foot pressure of the machine has been pre-set and requires no particular re-adjustment according to the type of fabric (light-or-heavy weight). However, if you need to alter the presser foot pressure, turn the presser foot pressure adjusting screw using a coin.

  • For sewing very thin fabric, loosen the pressure by turning the screw counter-clockwise, and for heavy fabric, tighten by turning it clockwise.
  • To return to initial pressure foot setting turn the presser foot pressure adjusting screw to become flush with the face cover.

What is the two-step presser foot?

There are two raising levels of the presser foot. Lifting the foot up to the first level is used to place the fabric under the foot for sewing.

The second level is only used in embroidery mode to remove the hoop easily.

How do you change the presser foot?

Attaching the presser foot holder

  • Raise the presser foot bar (a).
  • Attach the presser foot holder (b) as illustrated.

Attaching the presser foot

  • Lower the presser foot holder (b) until the cut-out © is directly above the pin (d).
  • Press the black lever (e).
  • Lower the presser foot holder (b) and the presser foot (f) will engage automatically.

Removing the presser foot

  • Raise the presser foot.
  • Press the black lever (e) and the foot will disengages.

Attaching the edge/quilting guide

  • Attach the edge/quilting guide (g) in the slot as illustrated.
  • Adjust according to the need for hems, pleats, etc.

What is the function of the Start/Stop button?

  • Press the Start/Stop button to start the machine.
  • Press again to stop it.

The machine will move slowly at the start of sewing.

  • This way you may operate the machine without foot control.

What is the function of the Reverse button?

Reverse is pressed to sew in reverse. The icon «Reverse» on the LCD indicates reverse sewing. Only the Direct Group Patterns 1 – 5 and A Group Patterns 00 can be sewn in reverse.

  • If you press the Reverse/Exit button before starting to sew

    • the machine will permanently sew in reverse. Press the button again to sew forward.

  • If you press the reverse button during sewing

    • it will sew in reverse as long as the reverse buttons is pressed.

What is the Auto-Lock function?

When the Direct Group Patterns 1-4 and A Group Patterns 00 are selected, the machine will immediately sew 3 securing stitches when the Auto-Lock button is pressed, then it will stop automatically.

1 The LCD display shows the symbol until the machine is stopped.

Except for Direct Group Patterns 0-4 and A Group Patterns 00, 86-99, press the Auto-Lock button, the machine will sew 3 securing stitches at the end of the current pattern and then stop automatically.

2 The LCD display shows the symbol until the machine is stopped.

The function will be cancelled if you press the button once again or select another pattern.

What does the Speed Dial do?

  • By adjusting the position of the speed dial, the top speed during sewing may be limited.

The position of the speed dial defines the sewing speed when the foot control is pressed down completely.

  • For higher speed: Turn the dial clockwise
  • For slower speed: Turn the dial counter-clockwise

When the machine is run via the Start/Stop button the position of the speed dial defines the actual sewing speed.

What is the function of the Needle up/down button?

  • By pressing the needle up/down button, the needle will either stop in the up position or in the material when stop sewing.
  • Press the button so the arrow on the LCD points upward, the needle moves to the highest position and will stop there after sewing.
  • Press the button so the arrow on the LCD points downwards, the needle moves to the lowest position and will stop there after sewing.

During sewing, press the needle up/down button, the machine will stop automatically.

How do you use the Direct pattern selection?

  • Press the buttons to select the practical stitch patterns shown beside the numbers when the Direct Mode is set.

How do you use the Number buttons?

  • Press the buttons to select the practical stitch patterns at set Pattern Group directly.

How do you use the Arrow buttons?

Use the buttons to select desired pattern, function… etc.

How do you use the OK button?

  • Press this button to confirm the selection.

    • In the Normal Mode press the button to enter the pattern browser.
    • In the Memory Mode press the button to enter the pattern browser.

What is the Elongation function?

  • A Group Patterns 13-36 can be elongated up to five times its normal length by pressing the elongation button.

What does the Mirror image button do?

Except for Direct Group Pattern 0 and the A Group patterns 86-99, the other patterns can be mirror-imaged by pressing the mirror image button.

  • The machine will continue to sew the mirrored pattern until the mirror button is pressed again.
  • The mirror function will also be canceled if the pattern is changed.

What does the Twin needle button do?

Except for the Direct Group Patterns 0 and the A Group patterns 86-99, the patterns can be sewn in two parallel lines of the same stitch using the twin needle.

  • Press the twin needle button and the machine automatically reduces the maximum width for twin needle sewing.
  • Press the button again to return to single needle sewing.

How do you adjust the stitch width?

When selecting a stitch, the machine will automatically set the recommended stitch width, which will be indicated by numbers on the LCD display.

  • The stitch width can be regulated by pressing the stitch width adjustment button.
  • For a narrower stitch, press the button left.
  • For a wider stitch, press the button right.

The stitch width can be altered from «0.0 to 7.0».

Certain stiches have a limited stitch width.

When Direct Patterns 1-4 and A Group Pattern 00 are selected, the needle position is regulated by the stitch width adjustment buttons.

  • Press the button left and the needle moves to the left.
  • Press the button right and the needle moves to the right.

The number will be changed from left position «0.0» to extreme right position «7.0».

The pre-set center needle position will be indicated as «3.5».

How do you adjust the stitch length?

When you select a stitch, the machine will automatically set the recommended stitch length which will be indicated by numbers on the LCD display.

  • The stitch length can be altered by pressing the stitch length adjustment button.
  • To shorten the stitch length, press the «-» button (left).
  • For a longer stitch length, press the «+» button (right).

The stitch length can be altered from «0.0 to 4.5».

Certain stitches have a limited stitch length.

How do you use Pattern group selection?

The LCD display shows the Direct Group Patterns when you turn on the machine.

  • Press the pattern group selection button, the LCD display enters the pattern group selection display automatically. Use the arrow buttons to select the desired group of stitches.

    • Direct Group Patterns
    • A Group Patterns
    • B Group Patterns
    • C1 Group Patterns: Block Style Alphabet
    • C2 Group Patterns: Script Style Alphabet

How do you use Memory?

  • Press the memory button to enter the Memory Mode and program the combinations of characters or decorative stitches.

    • The Direct Group Patterns and the A Group patterns 86-99 can’t be programed.

What is the function of the Clear/Return button?

  • If an incorrect pattern or memory file is selected, press this button to clear it or to return to the previous display.

How do you select a stitch?

The LCD display shows the Direct Group Patterns when switching on the machine.

  • Press number buttons to select a pattern shown next to the number buttons or press the pattern group selection button to select the desired pattern group.
  • Use the arrow buttons to select the desired pattern group and press the OK button.
  • Use either the arrow buttons or the number buttons to select the desired pattern.
  • When using the arrow buttons, press the OK button after the desired stitch was selected to go back to Sewing Mode.
  • When using the number buttons, the machine will automatically set the stitch and go back to Sewing Mode.

How do you use reverse?

Reverse stitching is used to secure the threads at the beginning and at the end of a seam.

  • Press the reverse button and sew 4-5 stitches.

    • The machine will sew forward when the button is released.

How do you sew corners?

  1. Stop the sewing machine when you reach a corner.
  2. Lower the needle into the fabric manually or by pressing the needle up/ down button once.
  3. Raise the presser foot.
  4. Use the needle as a pivot and turn the fabric.
  5. Lower the presser foot and resume sewing.

How do you use the free arm?

Free-arm sewing is convenient for sewing tubular areas such as pant hems and cuffs.

How do you sew on heavy fabric?

The black button on the left side of the presser foot will lock the presser foot in a horizontal position if you push it in before lowering the presser foot. This ensures even feeding at the beginning of a seam and helps when sewing multiple layers of fabric such as sewing over seams when hemming jeans.

When you reach the point of an increased thickness, lower the needle and raise the presser foot.

  • Press the toe of the foot and push in the black button, then lower the foot and continue sewing.

The black button releases automatically after sewing few stitches.

You can also place another piece of fabric with the same thickness at the back of the seam.

Or support the presser foot while feeding by hand and sewing towards the folded side.

How do you change the needle position?

These settings apply to the Direct Group Pattern 1-4 and the A Group Pattern 00 only. The pre-set position is «3.5», center position.

  • Press the stitch width button to enter the stitch width adjustment mode.
  • When you turn the selector wheel counter-clockwise, the needle position will move to the left.
  • When you turn the selector wheel clockwise, the needle position will move to the right.

How do you alter the stitch length?

  • Press the stitch length button to enter the stitch length adjustment mode.
  • To shorten the stitch length, turn the selector wheel counter-clockwise.
  • For a longer stitch length, turn the selector wheel clockwise.

In general, the thicker the fabric, thread and needle, the longer the stitch should be.

How do you alter the zig-zag stitch width?

The maximum zig-zag stitch width for zig-zag stitching is «7.0»; however, the width can be reduced with any patterns.

  • Press the stitch width button to enter the stitch width adjustment mode,

    • the stitch width can be altered from «0.0 to 7.0mm».

How do you alter the zig-zag stitch length?

The density of zig-zag stitches increase- as the setting of stitch length approaches «0.3».

Neat zig-zag stitches are usually achieved at «1.0-2.5».

Closed up zig-zag stitches (close together) look like satin stitches.

What is the triple straight stretch stitch for?

The triple straight stretch stitch is strong and flexible and ensures a durable seam without breaking. Suitable for highly elastic and knit fabrics but also for heavy fabrics such as denim.

These stitches can also be used as a decorative top stitching.

The triple straight stretch stitch is used to add triple reinforcement to stretch and hardwearing seams.

The triple zig-zag stretch stitch is suitable for firm fabrics like denim, poplin, duck, etc.

How do you use overlock stitches?

  • Change the presser foot to the overlock foot (E).
  • Sew the fabric with the fabric edge against the guide of the overlock foot.

How do you use the Zigzag foot?

  • Change the presser foot to the Zigzag foot (T).
  • When sewing the overlock using the Zigzag foot, sew along the edge of the fabric so that the needle drops over the edge of the fabric on the right side.

The overlock foot should be used to sew with Direct Group Patterns 5 and 8 only.

Do not set the stitch width narrower than «5.0».

It is possible that the needle could hit the presser foot and break when sewing other patterns and width.

How do you sew a blind hem?

  • Place the fabric under the foot.

  • Turn the handwheel forward manually until the needle swings fully to the left.

    • It should just pierce the fold of the fabric.

  • If it does not, adjust the stitch width accordingly.

  • Adjust the guide (b) by turning the knob (a) so that the guide just rests against the fold.

  • Sew slowly, guiding the fabric carefully along the edge of the guide.

  • Turn over the fabric.

How do you use the button sewing-on function?

  • Change the presser foot to the button sewing-on foot.
  • Move the feed dog control to lower the feed dog (b).
  • Position the work under the foot.
  • Place the button in the desired position, lower the foot.
  • Select zig-zag pattern.
  • Adjust the stitch width to «2.5-4.5» according to the distance between the two holes of the button.
  • Turn the handwheel to check that the needle goes cleanly into the left and right holes of the button.
  • Before sewing, press the Auto-lock button to sew securing stitches automatically at the beginning and at the end of the stitch.
  • If a shank is required, place a darning needle on top of the button and sew.
  • For buttons with 4 holes, sew the front two holes first, push the work forward and then sew the back two holes.

How do you sew a buttonhole?

  • Mark the positions of the buttonhole on the fabric.

The maximum buttonhole length is 3cm (1 3/16 inch). (Total of diameter + thickness of button.)

  • Attach the buttonhole foot, then pull out the button holder plate and insert the button.
  • The size of the buttonhole is determined by the button inserted in the button plate.
  • The thread should be passed through the hole in the presser foot, then be placed under the foot.
  • Select the buttonhole stitch.
  • Adjust the stitch width and the stitch length to the desired width and density.
  • Position the fabric under the presser foot so that the centerline‘s mark is aligned with the center of the buttonhole foot.
  • Lower the buttonhole lever.
  • Hold the upper thread slightly and start sewing.

Gently feed the fabric by hand.

Before stopping, the machine will automatically sew a securing stitch after the buttonhole is sewn.

Buttonholes are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown.

  • Raise the presser foot and cut the thread.
  • To sew over same buttonhole, raise the presser foot (it will return to original position).
  • After sewing the buttonhole, raise the buttonhole lever until it stops.
  • Cut the slit of the buttonhole being careful not to cut any stitches on either side.
  • Use a pin as a stopper at the bartack so you do not cut too much.

How do you sew buttonholes on stretch fabrics?

When sewing buttonholes on stretch fabric, hook a heavy thread or a cord under the buttonhole foot.

  • Attach the buttonhole foot and hook the cord at the back of the presser foot.
  • Bring the two cord ends to the front of the foot and insert them in the grooves, then temporarily tie them there. Lower the presser foot and start sewing.
  • Set the stitch width to match the diameter of the cord.
  • Once the sewing is completed, pull the cord gently to remove any loose parts, then trim off any excess.

It is recommended to use stabilizer on the backside of the fabric.

What are the basic sewing procedures for bartack?

• Extend the button guide plate and set to the desired bartack length. • Adjust the stitch width and stitch length to personalize the stitches. • Position the fabric so that the needle is 2mm (1/16 inch) in front of the pocket opening and then lower the presser foot lever. • Lead the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot. • Pull down the buttonhole lever and position it behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot. • Gently hold the end of the upper thread in your left hand and start sewing.

What is the sewing procedure for bartack?

The sewing procedure for bartack is illustrated.

How do I select the eyelet size?

Press the «-» or «+» stitch width adjustment button to select the eyelet size.

What are the available eyelet sizes?

  • Small: 5.0mm (3/16 inch)
  • Medium: 6.0mm (15/64 inch)
  • Large: 7.0mm (1/4 inch)

How do I sew an eyelet stitch?

• Position the needle in the fabric at the beginning of the stitching, and then lower the presser foot lever. • Once the sewing is completed, the machine sews the securing stitches automatically, then stops. • Make a hole at the center using an eyelet punch tool.

  • The eyelet punch tool is not included with the machine. • Select pattern 60 to obtain the eyelet stitch. Attach the satin stitch foot (A). • If thin thread is used, the stitching may be too loose. If this occurs, sew the eyelet twice one on top of the other.

What are the basic sewing procedures for darning stitch?

• Select the A Group Patterns 98 or 99 to obtain the darning stitch. • Change to the buttonhole foot. • Baste the upper fabric and the under fabric together. • Select the needle position. • Lower the presser foot over the center of the tear. • Pull the button holder to rear. • Adjust the button guide plate on the buttonhole foot to the desired length. • Lead the upper thread down through the hole in the presser foot. • Pull down the buttonhole lever. • The buttonhole lever is positioned behind the bracket on the buttonhole foot. • Gently hold the end of the upper thread in your left hand, and then start sewing. Darning stitches are sewn from the front of the presser foot to the back, as shown.

What should I do if the sewing range is too big to sew?

If the sewing range is too big to sew, then it is recommended to sew the area several times (or cross sew) to get better sewing result.

How should I position the fabric for darning?

  • Position the fabric so that the needle is 2mm (1/16 inch) in front of the area to be darned, and then lower the presser foot.

What should I avoid when lowering the presser foot?

When lowering the presser foot, do not push the front of the presser foot, otherwise the darning will not be sewn in the correct size.

What are the basic sewing procedures for inserting a centered zipper?

• Baste the zipper opening on the garment. • Press open the seam allowance. • Place the zipper face down on the seam allowance with the coils against the seam line. • Baste the zipper tape. • Attach the zipper foot. • Attach the right side of the presser foot pin to the holder when sewing the left side of the zipper. • Attach the left side of the presser foot pin to the presser foot holder when sewing the right side of the zipper. • Stitch the left side of the zipper from top to bottom. • Stitch across the lower end and right side of the zipper. • Remove the basting and close the zipper.

What should I keep in mind when using the zipper foot?

The zipper foot should be used for sewing with center needle position, straight stitch only. It is possible that the needle could hit the presser foot and break when sewing other patterns.

What are the basic sewing procedures for inserting a side zipper?

• Baste the zipper opening on the garment. • Fold seam allowance back to the left. • Form a 3mm-fold of the right seam allowance. • Attach the zipper foot. • Attach the right side of the presser foot pin to the holder when sewing the left side of the zipper. • Attach the left side of the presser foot pin to the presser foot holder when sewing the right side of the zipper. • Stitch the left side of zipper from the bottom to the top. • Turn the fabric right side out, stitch across the lower end and right side of zipper. • Stop about 5cm (2 inches) from the top of zipper. • Remove the basting and open the zipper. • Stitch the remaining seam.

How do I insert an invisible zipper?

• Attach the invisible zipper foot to the machine. • Adjust needle center position and select the straight stitch. – The stitch length depends on the fabric and may vary from 1.0 to 3.0mm. • Place the open zipper face – down on right side of fabric as shown in the picture. • Align the fabric edge with the 5/8 inch marking line on the stitch plate. • Place the zipper 6mm (1/4 inch) below raw edge of garment. • With right-hand groove of the foot over the zipper coils, sew along the zipper until the foot hits the zipper pull. • Remove the garment from the machine. • To attach the other half of the zipper, align the fabric edge with the 5/8 inch marking line on the stitch plate as shown in the picture. With the left-hand groove of the foot over the zipper coils, sew along the zipper until the foot hits the zipper pull. • Close zipper. • Fold the fabric that the zipper is on the right hand side out of the way as shown in the picture. • Use a pin to fix the fabric. • Change to the regular sewing foot and sew along the zipper as closely as possible using straight stitch. • At last secure with some forward and reverse stitches.

  • The invisible zipper foot accessory is optional. It is not included with this machine.

What are the basic sewing procedures for narrow hemming?

• Fold the edge of the fabric over about 3mm, then fold it over again 3mm for about 5cm along the edge of the fabric. • Position the needle in the fold by turning the handwheel towards you, and lower the presser foot. • Sew several stitches and raise the presser foot. • Insert the fabric fold into the spiral opening of the hemmer foot. • Move the fabric back and forth until the fold forms a scroll shape. • Lower the presser foot and start sewing slowly guiding the raw edge of the fabric in front of the hemmer foot evenly into the opening of the foot.

  • The hemmer foot accessory is optional. It is not included with this machine.

What are the basic sewing procedures for single cording?

• Mark the design on the fabric. Insert the cord in the center groove of the cording foot from the right side opening. • Pull the cord about 5cm (2 inches) behind the foot. • The grooves under the foot will hold the length of the cord in place while the stitches are being formed over the cord. • Select the stitch and adjust the stitch width so that the stitches just cover the cord. • Lower the foot and sew slowly, guiding the cord over the design.

What can be used for cording?

Pearl cotton, knitting yarn, embroidery floss, lace thread, fine wool or lily yarn can be used for cording.

  • The cording foot accessory is optional. It is not included with this machine.

What are the basic sewing procedures for triple cording?

• Push the sewing thread to the left and insert three cords into the grooves of the foot and pull about 5cm (2 inches) of the cords behind the foot. • Select the desired pattern and adjust the stitch width so that the stitches just cover the cords. Lower the foot and sew slowly guiding the cords.

How do I sew satin stitches?

  • Use the satin stitch foot for satin stitching and sewing decorative stitches. This foot has a full indentation on the sole which allows both easy sewing over the thickness of the stitches formed by closely spaced zig-zag stitches and even feeding of the fabric.
  • To tailor the satin or decorative stitch pattern, the length and width of the pattern may be adjusted by pressing the stitch length and width adjustment buttons and experimenting with fabric scraps until the desired length and width is achieved.
  • When working with thin fabrics it is recommended to reinforce the wrong side using a stabilizer.

How do I align the edges of the fabric for patchwork stitching?

  • Align the edges of the fabric with the inside edge of the guide on the side of the foot for accurate 1/4“ piercing of the needle.

How do I use the edge/quilting guide?

• Insert the edge/quilting in the presser foot holder as illustrated and set the space as desired. • Sew the first row and move over the fabric to sew subsequent rows with the guide riding along the previous row of stitching. The inside of the toes provides an accurate 1/8“ seaming guide. The foot has 1/4“ markings both behind the needle and in front of the needle for accurate pivoting of corners.

  • The 1/4“ quilting foot accessory is optional. It is not included with this machine. Only the straight stitch in center position can be used.

How do I imitate the look of a hand look quilt stitch?

You can imitate the look of a hand look quilt stitch by using monofilament thread in the needle, 30 or 40 weight cotton thread in the bobbin, and by increasing the thread tension.

How do I sew patchwork stitching?

• Place the two pieces of fabric with the right side together and sew with the straight stitch. • Open the seam allowance and press it flat. • Place the center of the presser foot on the seam line of the joined pieces of fabric and sew over the seam.

How do I sew fagoting?

• Separate the folded edges of the fabric pieces with a gap of 4mm (1/8 inch) and baste them onto a piece of thin paper or water-soluble stabilizer sheet. • Align the center of the presser foot with the center of the two pieces of fabric and begin sewing. • After sewing, remove the paper.

How do I sew a scallop stitch?

• Stitch along the edge of the fabric, making sure not to sew directly on the edge of the fabric. • For better results, apply spray starch onto the fabric and press with a hot iron before it is sewn. • Trim along the stitches. • Be careful not to cut the stitches.

How do I sew gathered fabric?

• Remove the presser foot holder and attach the gathering foot, lowering the tension setting to below 2. • Place the fabric to be gathered under presser foot to the right of the presser foot. • Sew a row of stitches, keeping the raw edge of fabric aligned with the right edge of the foot. • The stitches make the fabric gather automatically. • Suitable for light to medium weight fabrics.

How do I gather and attach gathered fabric in one step?

• Remove the presser foot holder and attach the gathering foot. • Place the fabric to be gathered with the right side up under the foot. • Place the top layer of the fabric with the right side down in the slot. • Guide the two layers as illustrated.

  • The gathering foot accessory is optional. It is not included with this machine.

What should I do when testing the machine for adjustments to achieve desired density?

Work with an extra 10“ allowance of the fabric, trims or elastic. This makes it easier to determine the necessary adjustments and how much change is needed for your project. Always test on your project fabric and on the same grainline which will be used in your finished project. Using the crossgrain of the fabric will make prettier pleats than the straight of grain. Sew at slow to medium speed for better fabric control.

How do I smock?

• Adjust the stitch length to 4mm and loosen the thread tension. • Use the Zigzag foot to sew straight lines 1cm (3/8 inch) apart from each other, across the area to be smoked. • Knot the threads along one edge. • Pull the bobbin thread and spread the pleats evenly. • Secure the threads at the other end. • Reduce the tension, if necessary and sew decorative pattern stitches between the straight seams. • Pull out the gathering stitches.

How do I darn using free motion?

• First sew around the edges of the hole (to secure the threads). • Working from left to right, sew over the hole in a constant and continuous movement. • Turn the work by 1/4 (90°) and sew over the first stitching moving the work slowly over the hole to separate the rows and to avoid big gaps between them. • Remove the presser foot holder, and attach the darning foot to the presser foot holder bar. • The lever (a) should be behind the needle clamp screw (b). Press the darning foot on firmly from behind with your index finger and tighten the screw ©. • Move the feed dog control to lower the feed dog (b). Free motion darning is accomplished without the internal feed system of the sewing machine. The movement of the fabric is controlled by the operator. It is necessary to coordinate sewing speed and movement of fabric.

How do I do monogramming?

• Select the zig-zag stitch pattern and alter the stitch width as desired. • Sew at a constant speed, moving the hoop slowly along the lettering. • When the letter is finished, finish with securing stitches at the end by pressing the Auto-lock button. • Fill in the pattern working from the outline towards the inside. • Keep the stitches close together. You will get longer stitches by moving the hoop faster and shorter stitches by moving the hoop slower. • Finish with securing stitches at the end by pressing the Auto-lock button.

How do I embroider?

• Select the zig-zag stitch pattern and alter the stitch width as desired. • Stitch along the outline of the pattern by moving the embroidery hoop. • Make sure to maintain a constant speed.

  • The embroider hoop is not included with the machine.

How can I improve fabric guide and seam view while sewing?

It is easier to guide the fabric and you have a better view of the seam when using the standard, regular foot on your machine.

When should I use the walking foot accessory?

The Walking foot accessory equalizes the feeding of the upper and lower layers of fabric and improves the matching of plaids, stripes and patterns. It also helps to prevent uneven feeding of very delicate fabrics.

How do I attach the walking foot to the machine?

• Lift the presser foot lifter to raise the presser foot bar. • Remove the presser foot holder by unscrewing the presser foot bar attaching screw counter-clockwise. • The arm (a) should fit into the needle attaching screw and clamp (b) above. • Slide the plastic attaching head © from the left to the right so that it fits into the presser foot bar. • Lower the presser foot bar. • Replace and tighten (clockwise) the presser bar attaching screw. • Make sure both the needle attaching screw and the presser foot bar attaching screw are tightly fixed. • Draw the bobbin thread up and place both the bobbin thread and the needle thread behind the walking foot attachment.

  • The walking foot accessory is optional. It is not included with this machine.

How do I mirror an image stitch pattern?

• Select the desired pattern. • Press the mirror image button. – The symbol for mirroring appears on the LCD display. The machine will continue to sew the displayed pattern mirrored until the mirror image button is pressed again or the pattern is changed. Direct Group Pattern 0 and A Group Patterns 86-99 can’t be mirrored.

How do I elongate a stitch pattern?

• Select the desired pattern. • Press the elongation button. – The symbol for elongation appears on the LCD display. • Press the elongation button several times to adjust the elongation as desired. • The machine will continue to sew the displayed pattern until the elongation button is pressed again or the pattern is changed. A Group Patterns 13-36 can be elongated and mirrored simultaneously. The stitch can be elongated up to five times its normal length by pressing the elongation button.

How do I sew with twin needles?

• Make sure that the two threads used to thread the needles are of the same weight. You can use one or two colors. • Insert the twin needle. • Use only twin needle assemblies with max. 2mm needle distance (i.e. bernette part number 502020.62.91). • Follow the instructions for single-needle threading using the horizontal spool pin. • Thread through the left needle. • Insert the spool pin (included with the accessories) in the hole on the top of the machine. • Thread along the same path, and make sure NOT to omit the thread guide above the needle and pass thread through the right needle. • Thread each needle separately. • Select a pattern. (E.g. A Groupe Pattern 13) • All stitch patterns can be used with twin needle except for Direct Group Patterns 0 and A Group Patterns 86-99. • When using twin needle, use the Zigzag foot. • Press the twin needle button. – The LCD display shows the twin needle symbol (1) and the machine reduces the maximum stitch width for twin needle sewing to 2mm automatically. • Start to sew and two lines of stitches are sewn parallel to each other. When sewing with the twin needle, always proceed slowly and make sure to maintain a low speed to ensure a good stitch formation. When twin needle sewing has been selected, it will remain active even the stitch pattern is changed. To deactivate sewing press the twin needle button again.

How do I use the memory function?

• Several stitch patterns can be combined in one sewing sequence using the memory function. • These pattern sequences can be stored for later use. • Even when the sewing machine is switched off the memory contents are retained. Multiple patterns selecting from pattern groups can be combined together such as A Group Patterns, B Group Patterns, Block Style Alphabet (C1-Group Patterns) and Script Style Alphabet (C2-Group Patterns). Direct Group Patterns and A Group Patterns 86-99 can’t be stored in the memory. This machine has 4 memories and each of them can store up to 20 stitches. All the units in the memory can be edited in their functions such as stitch length, stitch width, elongation, mirror image and Auto-Lock, except when sewing with the twin needle.

How do I enter a sequence of stitch patterns in Memory Enter Mode?

• Press the memory button to enter the Memory Enter Mode. • Use the arrow buttons to select the number of the Memory file.

Requirement:

Empty Memory.

How do I enter the selected Memory Module?

Press the OK button to enter the selected Memory Module. The cursor is at first memory position for the first pattern to be programmed. The upper left corner of LCD display shows the number of the Memory file. • Press the pattern group selection button to enter the pattern group selection display. • Select the desired pattern group. (E.g. for A Group Patterns) • Press the OK button to enter the pattern browser and the various stitches in the selected pattern group appear.

How do I store a selected stitch?

• Press the desired pattern number or use the arrow buttons to select the desired pattern. • When using the arrow buttons, press the OK button to store the selected stitch. – The selected pattern appear on the LCD display and the cursor moves to the next position. • When pressing the number buttons the machine will automatically store the selected stitch which appears on the LCD display and the cursor moves to next position. • Repeat the steps for more patterns to be stored in the memory. After 20 patterns have been selected, the memory is full. If another pattern is selected when the memory is already full the machine will beep to make you aware of it. To sew the memorized patterns press Start/Stop button or touch the foot control. The selected pattern will be cleared from the Memory file when the machine ist turned off without having pressed the memory button again after the completed selection.

How do I review stored stitches?

• Press the memory button to enter the Memory Mode.

Requirement:

With existing patterns in Memory.

How do I enter the selected Memory file?

• Use the arrow buttons to choose the desired Memory file. • Press OK button to enter the selected Memory file. The cursor stays at the first position. • Use the arrow buttons to move from position to position. Press Start/Stop button or touch the foot control to start the continuous sewing from the current position in the memory.

How do I switch from Memory Mode to the Normal Mode?

• Press the memory button to leave the Memory Mode and return to the Normal Mode. • Press the memory button to enter the Memory Mode. • Use the arrow buttons to choose the desired Memory file. • Press OK button to enter the selected Memory file. – The cursor stays at the first position. • Press the Start/Stop button or touch the foot control to sew the stored stitches.

How do I add a sequence of stitches?

• Press the memory button to enter the Memory Mode. • Use the arrow buttons to select the number of the Memory file (e.g. M3). • Press the OK button to enter the selected Memory file and the cursor stays at the first position. • Use the arrow buttons to move the cursor to next empty position. • Press the pattern group selection button to enter the pattern group selection display. • Proceed according to page 73 to add multiple new stitches.

How do I change a stored stitch or its parameters?

• Press the memory button to enter the Memory Mode. • Use the arrow buttons to choose the desired Memory file. • Press the OK button to enter the selected Memory file – The cursor stays at the first position. • Use the arrow buttons to select the stitch that should be replaced or have its parameters changed. • To change the stitch press the clr button and then press the pattern group selection button to choose a new stitch. • To change its parameters press the stitch length, stitch width, mirror image, or elongation button.

Requirement:

With existing patterns in Memory.

How do I insert an additional stitch?

• Press the memory button to enter the Memory Mode. • Use the arrow buttons to choose the desired Memory file. • Press the OK button to enter the selected Memory file. – The cursor stays at the first position.

Requirement:

With existing patterns in Memory. • Use the arrow buttons to move the cursor to the position where you want to insert a new stitch. • Press the pattern group selection button to enter the pattern group selection browser and choose a new stitch. The parameters of the selected stitch, such as stitch length, stitch width, mirror image, and elongation can be altered by pressing the respective button.

How do I delete a stored stitch?

• Press the memory button to enter the Memory Mode. • Use the arrow buttons to choose desired Memory file. • Press the OK button to enter the selected Memory file. – The cursor stays at the first position. • Use the arrow buttons to select the stitch that should be deleted. • Press the clr button to delete the pattern and all patterns that come next will move one position forward.

How do I delete all stored stitches?

• Repeat steps from «Delete a stored stitch». • When pressing the clr button keep it pressed for a few seconds until the machine asks again if everything should be deleted. • Press the OK button if all patterns should be deleted and the machine returns to the previous Memory file which is empty now. • Press the clr button if they shouldn’t be deleted and the machine returns to the previous Memory file with all stored patterns.

What does it mean when the warning message “Presser foot is not lowered” is displayed?

This message is displayed when the Start/stop button or the needle up/down position button is pressed while the presser foot is raised.

What does it mean when the warning message “Presser foot is not raised” is displayed?

This message is displayed when the embroidery module will initialize while the embroidery foot is lowered.

What does it mean when the warning message “Bobbin winding” is displayed?

This message is displayed when the bobbin winder is winding the bobbin.

What does it mean when the warning message “Push the bobbin winder spindle to the left” is displayed?

This message is displayed when the bobbin winder spindle is still positioned to the right.

What does it mean when the warning message “The upper thread is broken” is displayed?

This message is displayed when the upper thread is broken. Please check and rethread the upper thread.

What does it mean when the warning message “Bobbin thread is low” is displayed?

This message is displayed when the bobbin thread is running out.

What does it mean when the warning message “BH lever is not lowered” is displayed?

This message is displayed when the buttonhole or darning stitch was selected and the start/stop button was pressed while the buttonhole lever is raised.

What does it mean when the warning message “BH lever is not lifted” is displayed?

This message is displayed when the stitch other than the buttonhole or darning stitch was selected and the start/ stop button was pressed while the buttonhole lever is down. Press the OK button to confirm.

What does the exclamation message mean?

The exclamation message means that the thread is twisted or jammed or the fabric is too thick and the hand wheel cannot move. Please look through the «Trouble shooting guide» to resolve the problem.

What does it mean when the memory is full with 20 units of designs?

3-short beeps.

What does it mean when operating incorrectly?

3-short beeps.

What does it mean when the sewing machine is in trouble and can‘t sew?

  • 3-short beeps.

What should I do if the thread is twisted or jammed and the hand wheel axle can‘t move?

Please look through the «Trouble shooting guide» to find the solution. After the problem has been solved, the machine will continue sewing. If the problem is still not solved, please contact your local dealer.

What happens during sewing, if the thread gets jammed inside the hook stopping the needle from moving and you continue pressing the foot control?

The security switch will stop the machine completely. In order to restart the sewing machine, you will have to turn the on/off switch to the OFF position and then ON again.

What are the maintenance instructions?

  • Cleaning the display
  • Cleaning the sewing machine surface
  • Cleaning the hook Disconnect the power cord from the wall socket before cleaning the display and the sewing machine surface, otherwise injury or electrical shock may result. This machine is equipped with a 100mW LED lamp. If lamp replacement is needed, please contact the nearest authorized retailer. Disconnect the machine from the wall outlet before carrying out any maintenance.

How do I clean the display?

If the front panel is dirty, wipe it gently with a soft, dry cloth. Do not use any organic solvents or detergents.

How do I clean the sewing machine surface?

If the surface of the sewing machine is dirty, lightly soak a cloth in mild detergent, squeeze it out firmly and then wipe the surface. After cleaning it once in this way, wipe the surface again with a dry cloth.

How do I clean the hook?

If lint and bits of thread accumulate in the hook, this will interfere with the smooth operation of the machine. Check regularly and clean the stitching mechanism when necessary. • Clean the bobbin holder with a brush. • Remove the needle, presser foot and presser foot holder. • Remove the bobbin cover plate. • Remove the screw holding the stitch plate and remove the stitch plate. • Clean the feed dog and bobbin case with a brush. Also clean them, using a soft, dry cloth.

What should I check before calling for service?

Check the following items. If the problem can’t be solved, contact the place of purchase or your nearest authorized dealer.

What should I do if the upper thread breaks?

  • The machine is not threaded correctly. – Rethread the machine.
  • The thread tension is too tight. – Reduce the thread tension.
  • The thread is too thick for the needle. – Select a larger needle.
  • The needle is not inserted correctly. – Remove and reinsert the needle (flat side towards the back).
  • The thread is wound around the spool pin. – Remove the spool and wind thread onto spool.
  • The needle is damaged. – Replace the needle.

What should I do if the lower thread breaks?

  • The bobbin case is not inserted correctly. – Remove and reinsert the bobbin case and pull on the thread. The thread should run easily.
  • The bobbin case is threaded incorrectly. – Check both bobbin and bobbin case.

What should I do if there are skipped stitches?

  • The needle is not inserted correctly. – Remove and reinsert needle (flat side towards the back).
  • The needle is damaged. – Insert a new needle.
  • The wrong size needle has been used. – Choose a needle to suit the thread.
  • The foot is not attached correctly. – Check and attach correctly.
  • The machine is not threaded correctly. – Rethread the machine.
  • The presser foot pressure is not strong enough. – Adjust the presser foot pressure.

What should I do if the needle breaks?

  • The needle is damaged. – Insert a new needle.
  • The needle is not correctly inserted. – Insert the needle correctly (flat side towards the back).
  • Wrong needle size for the fabric. – Choose a needle to suit the thread and fabric.
  • The wrong foot is attached. – Select the correct foot.
  • The needle clamp screw is loose. – Use the screwdriver to tighten the screw firmly.
  • The presser foot which is attached is not appropriate for the selected type of stitch pattern. – Attach the presser foot that is appropriate for the selected type of stitch.
  • The upper thread tension is too tight. – Loosen the upper thread tension.

What should I do if there are loose stitches?

  • The machine is not correctly threaded. – Check the threading.
  • The bobbin case is not correctly threaded. – Thread the bobbin case as illustrated.
  • Needle/fabric/thread combination is wrong. – The needle size must suit the fabric and thread.
  • Thread tension is wrong. – Correct the thread tension.

What should I do if the seam gathers or puckers?

  • The needle is too thick for the fabric. – Select a finer needle.
  • The stitch length is adjusted incorrectly. – Readjust the stitch length.
  • The thread tension is too tight. – Loosen the thread tension.

What should I do if there is seam puckering?

  • The upper thread tension is too tight. – Loosen the thread tension.
  • The upper thread is not threaded correctly. – Rethread the machine.
  • The needle is too heavy for the fabric being sewn. – Choose a needle to suit the thread and fabric.
  • The stitch length is too long for the fabric. – Adjust the stitch length.
  • The presser foot pressure is not correctly adjusted. – Adjust the presser foot pressure.

What should I do if patterns/ designs are distorted?

  • The correct presser foot is not used. – Select the correct foot.
  • The upper thread tension is too tight. – Loosen the thread tension.

What should I do if the machine jams?

  • Thread is caught in the hook. – Remove the upper thread and the bobbin case, turn the handwheel backwards and forwards by hand and remove the thread remnants.
  • The feed dog is packed with lint.

What should I do if the machine is noisy?

  • Lint has collected on the hook or needle bar. – Clean the hook and feed dog as described.
  • The needle is damaged. – Replace the needle.
  • Slight humming sound coming from internal motor.

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