BERNETTE 334DS (01) PDF Document

When using your BERNETTE 334DS, follow these basic safety precautions. Read all instructions before use.

DANGER – To reduce the risk of electric shock:

1. Never leave the appliance unattended when plugged in. Always unplug from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.

2. Always unplug before relamping. Replace the bulb with the same type rated 15 Watts.

WARNING – To reduce the risk of burns, fire, electric shock, or injury to persons:

1. Do not allow this appliance to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when used by or near children.

2. Use this appliance only for its intended use as described in the manual. Use only recommended attachments.

3. Never operate if it has a damaged cord or plug, is not working properly, has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return it to the nearest authorized dealer or service center.

4. Never operate with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the machine and foot controller free from lint, dust, and loose cloth.

5. Keep fingers away from all moving parts, especially around the sewing machine needle.

6. Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.

7. Do not use bent needles.

8. Do not pull or push fabric while stitching, as it may deflect and break the needle.

9. Switch the machine off (“0”) when making adjustments in the needle area (e.g., threading, changing needle, changing presser foot).

10. Always unplug when removing covers, lubricating, or making other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the manual.

11. Never drop or insert any object into any opening.

12. Do not use outdoors.

13. Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administered.

14. To disconnect, turn all controls to the off (“0”) position, then remove the plug.

15. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.

16. For U.S.A. only: Connect this appliance to a properly grounded outlet only. See Grounding Instructions.

This product must be grounded. In the event of a malfunction or breakdown, grounding provides a path of least resistance for electric current to reduce the risk of electric shock. The product is equipped with a cord having an equipment-grounding conductor and a grounding plug. The plug must be plugged into an appropriate outlet that is properly installed and grounded in accordance with all local codes and ordinances.

DANGER: Improper connection of the equipment-grounding conductor can result in a risk of electric shock. The conductor with insulation having an outer surface that is green with or without yellow stripes is the equipment-grounding conductor. If repair or replacement of the cord or plug is necessary, do not connect the equipment-grounding conductor to a live terminal.

Check with a qualified electrician or serviceman if the grounding instructions are not completely understood, or if in doubt as to whether the product is properly grounded.

Do not modify the plug provided with the product. If it will not fit the outlet, have a proper outlet installed by a qualified electrician.

This product is for use on a nominal 120 V circuit and has a grounding plug. A temporary adaptor may be used to connect this plug to a 2-pole receptacle if a properly grounded outlet is not available. The temporary adaptor should be used only until a properly grounded outlet can be installed by a qualified electrician. The green-colored rigid ear, lug, and the like, extending from the adaptor must be connected to a permanent ground such as a properly grounded outlet box cover. Whenever the adaptor is used, it must be held in place by the metal screw.

Attaching the Foot Control:

Plug the foot control into the machine socket and then into the mains socket. The foot control regulates the sewing speed; increase pressure to sew faster and decrease pressure to sew slower.

Assembling the Thread Stand:

Raise the support rod fully, turning it slightly until the positioning catches engage. Position the thread guide on the thread stand so that the orange marking is to the front.

Setting up Thread Cones/Spools:

• For cones: Use the anti-vibration cone with the wider edge at the bottom on the spool holder pin.

• For large industrial spools: Position the anti-vibration cone upside down (wider edge at the top).

• For household spools: Remove the anti-vibration cones. Place spools on holder pins and push the spool caps on with the rounded side downwards.

Attaching the Waste Collector:

Place the waste collector between the machine and the table, and push it to the left against the cloth plate. This catches cut-off fabric to keep your work area neat.

Power/Light Switch: Located on the handwheel side of the machine. Press to turn the machine and sewing light on or off.

Handwheel: Always turn the handwheel towards you, in the same direction as a household sewing machine.

Looper Cover: To open, press the knob to the right and tilt the cover towards you. To close, push it up and press lightly to the right until it engages automatically.

Cloth Plate: To open, push it gently to the left. To close, push it towards the machine and press gently until it engages.

Note: The BERNETTE 334DS is equipped with a micro-safety switch. For safety, the motor is automatically cut off if either the cloth plate or looper cover is open. The sewing light remains on.

Two-Step Presser Foot Lifter:

The lifter is on the rear of the machine. Lift the lever up until it engages (A) to raise the presser foot. For more space, you can raise it again to its maximum height (B).

Swing-Out Presser Foot:

1. Turn the power switch to “0”.

2. Raise the presser foot.

3. Turn the handwheel towards you until the needles are fully raised.

The swing-out foot provides better access to the looper and needle eyes. The machine motor will not operate when the foot is swung out as a safety measure.

Changing the Presser Foot:

1. Turn the power switch to “0”.

2. Raise the presser foot and ensure needles are fully raised.

3. To remove, press the catch (C) to release the presser foot from the clamp and remove it to the left.

4. To attach, place the new presser foot under the shaft. Align the groove in the shaft with the presser foot pin (D). Lower the shank, and the foot will engage automatically.

Inserting Needles:

1. Turn the power switch to “0”.

2. Turn the handwheel towards you until the needles are fully raised.

3. Raise the presser foot and swing it out.

4. Using the small screwdriver, loosen the needle setscrews and remove the old needles.

5. Place the right-hand needle (flat side towards the back) into the hole of the brush-cum-needle inserter. Insert the needle as far as possible into the needle clamp.

6. Tighten the setscrew lightly. Then insert the left-hand needle in the same way and tighten both setscrews.

Raising the Upper Knife:

1. Turn the power switch to “0”.

2. Turn the handwheel towards you until the needles are fully raised.

3. Open the looper cover.

4. Press the upper knife holder (D) to the right.

5. Turn the knob clockwise (E) until the knife is in the raised position (F).

Before you begin threading, follow these preparation steps:

1. Turn the power switch to “0”.

2. Ensure the support rod with the thread guide is fully raised.

3. Open the looper cover and the cloth plate.

4. Turn the handwheel towards you until the needles are fully raised.

5. Raise the upper knife.

For your first time threading, it is suggested to use four different colored threads (blue, red, green, and yellow) to easily see how the stitch is formed.

Follow these steps to thread the upper looper, following the blue markings:

1. Place the spool on the holder pin under the blue marking on the thread guide. Bring the thread up and take it through the blue guide (1).

2. Make an S-loop around the thread guide bar (2).

3. Guide the thread around the tension dial (3).

4. Follow the thread through guides 4, 5, 6, 7, and 8.

5. Turn the handwheel towards you until the upper looper is in the position shown in the manual (9).

6. Raise and swing out the presser foot. Thread the looper eye.

7. Swing the presser foot back into position, place the thread underneath it, and lower the presser foot (10).

Follow these steps to thread the lower looper, following the red markings:

1. Place the spool on the holder pin under the red marking on the thread guide. Bring the thread up and through the red guide (1).

2. Make an S-loop around the thread guide bar (2).

3. Guide the thread around the tension dial (3).

4. Follow the thread through guides 4, 5, 6, and 7.

5. Raise the needles fully and press the lever of the threading device down (8).

6. Thread the guide (9) and then the slit on the device (10).

7. Holding the thread loosely with your left hand, turn the handwheel until the upper and lower loopers just cross (11). The threading device will automatically return to its normal position.

8. Thread the lower looper (12).

9. Take the thread over the upper looper. Raise the presser foot, place the thread under it, and then lower the presser foot (13).

Follow these steps to thread the right-hand needle, following the green markings:

1. Place the spool on the holder pin under the green marking. Bring the thread up and through the green guide (1).

2. Make an S-loop around the thread guide bar (2).

3. Guide the thread around the tension dial (3).

4. Follow the thread through guides 4, 5, and 6.

5. Follow the thread through guides 7 and 8 on the needle clamp.

6. Turn the handwheel towards you until the needles are fully raised. Raise and swing out the presser foot.

7. Thread the right-hand needle from front to back (9).

8. Swing the presser foot back into position, place the thread under it, and lower the presser foot (10).

Follow these steps to thread the left-hand needle, following the yellow markings:

1. Place the spool on the holder pin under the yellow marking. Bring the thread up and through the yellow guide (1).

2. Make an S-loop around the thread guide bar (2).

3. Guide the thread around the tension dial (3).

4. Follow the thread through guides 4, 5, and 6.

5. Follow the thread through guides 7 and 8 on the needle clamp.

6. Turn the handwheel towards you until the needles are fully raised. Raise and swing out the presser foot.

7. Thread the left-hand needle from front to back (9).

8. Swing the presser foot back into position, place the thread under it, and lower the presser foot (10).

When threading is complete, lower the upper knife and close the looper cover and cloth plate.

Tip for changing thread color: You don’t need to re-thread the entire machine. Simply cut the threads above the cones, replace them, and knot the new thread onto the existing thread. Cut the thread off at the needle. Turn all tension dials to 0, pull the new thread through, and re-thread only the needle. Reset tension dials to 5 and make a trial run.

Your BERNETTE 334DS can sew a 2 or 3-thread overlock. The needle used determines the stitch width.

For a 2-thread overlock (3-5 mm):

1. Remove the left-hand needle.

2. Attach the 2-thread conversion attachment on top of the upper looper arm (A) and insert the wire hook into the looper eye (B).

3. Thread the lower looper and the right-hand needle.

4. Lay the lower looper thread over the point of the looper and to the left of the wire hook.

For a 2-thread overlock (5-7 mm):

1. Remove the right-hand needle.

2. Attach the 2-thread conversion attachment.

3. Thread the lower looper and the left needle.

4. Lay the lower looper thread over the point of the looper and to the left of the wire hook.

Important: Before sewing a 2-thread overlock, turn the handwheel forwards to check that the conversion attachment is correctly mounted. Always remove the conversion attachment before returning to 3 or 4-thread overlocking.

For a 3-thread overlock (3-5 mm):

Remove the left-hand needle. Then thread both loopers and the right-hand needle.

For a 3-thread overlock (5-7 mm):

Remove the right-hand needle. Then thread both loopers and the left-hand needle.

Sewing Test:

After threading, always make a trial run on a double layer of scrap fabric to properly check stitch formation and thread tension.

1. Set all tension dials to 5.

2. Ensure the upper knife is in the cutting position.

3. Raise the presser foot and place the fabric underneath.

4. Lower the presser foot and begin to sew.

You can use the seam guide markings on the looper cover to guide the fabric for your chosen seam allowance. Measurements are taken from the point of needle insertion.

Thread Cutter:

1. At the end of the seam, continue sewing a 5-6 cm (2 – 2 1/2″) long thread chain (A).

2. Holding the fabric in one hand, pull the thread chain over the thread cutter located on the presser foot shank (B) to cut the threads.

The ideal tension for normal jerseys and woven fabrics for a 3 or 4-thread overlock is between 4 and 6 on the dials. For a 2-thread overlock, the setting is between 6 and 8 for the lower looper and 1 and 3 for the needle. Turn dials left for less tension and right for more tension. Adjust by half or one number at a time and test sew.

For 3/4 Thread Overlock:

• Loops form on the underside: Tighten the upper looper tension (blue) and/or loosen the lower looper tension (red).
• Loops form on the upper side: Tighten the lower looper tension (red) and/or loosen the upper looper tension (blue).
• Right-hand needle thread forms loops on the underside: Tighten the right-hand needle thread tension (green).
• Left-hand needle thread forms loops on the underside: Tighten the left-hand needle thread tension (yellow).
• Fabric edge curls up: Tension of both looper threads is too tight. Loosen upper (blue) and lower (red) looper tension.
• Fabric puckers: Loosen the right (green) or left-hand (yellow) needle thread tension.

For 2 Thread Overlock:

• Loops form on the underside: Increase the lower looper tension (red) and reduce the needle tension (yellow or green).
• Loops form on the upper side: Reduce the lower looper tension (red) and increase the needle tension (yellow or green).

Your BERNETTE 334DS uses needle system 130/705 H (standard household needles). Use needles no. 70-90. The needle must be in perfect condition; replace if bent, damaged, blunt, or have hooked points. The needle size should suit the thread being used.

Thick threads like buttonhole twist, wool, or decorative threads are best used in the loopers.

Securing Seams by Sewing in the Thread Chain:

• At the beginning: Sew a 3-4 cm thread chain, then sew 2-3 stitches on the fabric. With the needle lowered, raise the presser foot. Stretch the chain and lay it from the left under the presser foot on the fabric. Lower the foot and sew over the chain.

• At the end: Sew to the end of the seam. Raise the needles fully and raise the presser foot. Set the stitch selection lever to roll hemming, carefully pull the fabric back to release the thread chain. Reset the lever to overlocking. Turn the work and sew approx. 2-3 cm over the first seam, being careful not to cut the fabric edge.

Securing Seams without Sewing in the Chain:

Leave enough thread chain at the beginning and end of the seam so it can be knotted or pulled through the first/last few stitches with a darning needle.

Unpicking Seams:

Using sharp scissors, cut the looper thread loops (A) on the fabric edge. Then, pull the needle thread(s) (B), and the stitches will come undone.

Stitch Length:

The stitch length is infinitely variable from 0.8 mm to 4 mm and can be adjusted while sewing. Simply turn the stitch length adjustment knob in the desired direction. Most overlock work is done with a basic stitch length setting of 2-3 mm.

Cutting Width:

The distance between the needles and the lower knife can be altered by turning the cutting width adjustment knob. Raise the upper knife before adjusting. The position of the lower knife and which needle is used determine the seam width. Lowering the upper knife after adjustment will cause it to automatically adjust to the lower knife’s position.

• To reduce cutting width (e.g., if edges of fine fabrics curl up), adjust the cutting width knob to a lower number.
• To increase cutting width (e.g., if looper threads form loops off the fabric edge), adjust the cutting width knob to a higher number.

The differential feed on your BERNETTE 334DS prevents waving in knitted fabrics and puckering in fine fabrics by using two sets of feed dogs that move independently. It can be adjusted while sewing by turning the differential feed adjustment knob.

Perfectly flat seams in knits or stretch fabrics: The front feed dog should travel further than the rear feed dog, feeding in more fabric than is taken up behind the needle, preventing stretching. Set the knob to a higher number (e.g., 1.5 – 2).

Pucker-free seams in nylon or closely woven fabrics: The rear feed dog should travel further than the front feed dog. The front feed dog holds the fabric back so the rear can take it up without puckering. Set the knob to a lower number (e.g., 0.7).

The following table shows the effects:

Gathering:

Using the differential feed, a single layer of fabric can be gathered before sewing it to a garment (e.g., for sleeve heads, yokes, or frills).

Adjustment:

• Stitch: 4-thread overlock

• Differential feed: 2

• Stitch length: 3 – 4

• Cutting width: 2 – 3

• Thread tension: 4 – 6

For a tighter gather, increase the needle thread tension (6 – 8). When sewing without differential feed, turn the adjustment knob back to “N”.

Presser Foot Pressure:

The presser foot pressure guarantees perfect feed and is factory-adjusted to a medium setting. If you need to adjust it, turn the pressure regulator.

• More pressure: For thick or stiff fabrics such as denim, tweed, firm linen.

• Less pressure: For lightweight or sheer fabrics such as chiffon, georgette, batiste.

Note: Seams in knitted fabrics will wave if the presser foot pressure is too tight. Do not increase it when sewing knits.

The roll hemmer is fully integrated and allows the machine to create a very narrow, fine seam by automatically rolling the fabric edge. It is ideal for finishing edges on fine fabrics like evening clothes, lingerie, and scarves.

1. Turn the power switch to off and raise the needles fully.

2. To switch from overlocking to roll hemming, pull the selection lever back to the red marking on the stitch plate furthest from the presser foot (B).

3. To return to overlocking, push the selection lever forwards to the red marking on the stitch plate nearest the presser foot (A).

Settings for Roll Hemming:

4-thread seam in thick knits:

• Stitch: 4 thread overlock

• Thread: Overlock thread, woolly nylon

• Needle: 80/90

• Stitch length: 2.5 – 3

• Cutting width: 3

• Differential feed: 1.5 – 2

• Thread tension: 4 – 6

4-thread seam in jerseys:

• Stitch: 4 thread overlock

• Thread: Overlock thread, woolly nylon

• Needles: 80 – 90

• Stitch length: 2 – 3

• Cutting width: 3

• Differential feed: approx. 1.5

• Thread tension: 4 – 6

2/3 thread neatening (narrow):

• Stitch: 2 or 3 thread overlock, right needle

• Needle: 70/80

• Stitch length: 2 – 3

• Cutting width: approx. 2

• Differential feed: 0.7 – N for woven, N – 2 for knits

• Thread tension: 4 – 6 (3-thread); lower looper (red) 6-8, needle (green) 1-3 (2-thread)

3-thread seam (fine knits/jerseys):

• Stitch: 3 thread overlock, right needle

• Needle: 70 – 80

• Stitch length: 2 – 3

• Cutting width: 2 – 3

• Differential feed: N – 1.5

• Thread tension: 4 – 6

2-thread flatlock (decorative):

• Stitch: 2 thread overlock, left needle

• Looper Thread: Decorative threads (Cordonnet, metal, perle yarn, woolly nylon)

• Stitch length: 2 – 3

• Upper knife: Cutting position or raised

• Tension: Lower looper (red) 6 – 8, needle (yellow) 1 – 3

Always disconnect the machine from the electricity supply before performing any maintenance.

Changing the Upper Knife:

The upper (moving) knife generally does not need replacing. If it gets damaged, it can be replaced by your local Bernette dealer.

Changing the Lower Knife:

1. Disconnect power. Turn the handwheel towards you until needles are fully raised.

2. Raise the upper knife.

3. Using the large screwdriver, loosen the setscrew on the lower knife retaining plate and remove the old knife.

4. Fit the replacement knife (from the accessory bag) in the groove so that the sharp edge is in line with the stitch plate.

5. Re-tighten the setscrew.

Replacing the Bulb:

1. Disconnect power.

2. Unscrew the bulb and replace it with a new one (15 Watt for 115V machines, 10 Watt for 220/230/240V machines).

Cleaning and Lubricating:

1. Disconnect power.

2. During sewing, dust and fluff collect in and on the machine. This should be removed regularly with the provided brush.

3. Your BERNETTE 334DS requires very little lubrication. Now and then, lubricate only the points illustrated in the manual.

• Stitch choice: 2 needle, 4 thread overlock with integrated safety seam; 1 needle, 3 thread overlock; 1 needle, 2 thread overlock
• Seam width: 3-7 mm (2/3 thread overlock); 5-7 mm (4 thread overlock)
• Stitch length: 0.8 – 4 mm
• Differential feed: No waving or fluting in knits N – 2; No puckering 0.7 – N
• Presser foot: Swing-out, snap-on sole
• Handwheel: Rotates forwards as on household sewing machine
• Needle system: 130/705 H for both needles
• Sewing speed: Up to 1500 s.p.m.
• Weight: 7.5 kg / approx. 16 lbs
• Dimensions: 300 W x 325 D x 300 H mm (13″ W x 12 3/4″ D x 12″ H)