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How do I select the correct needle for my UNION SPECIAL 200-45 sewing machine?

Normally, the shortest needle required to perform a given operation should be used. To determine the proper length of needle to use, follow these steps:

1. Load the button and material into the sewing area ready for stitching.

2. Manually rotate the pulley in the operating direction.

3. When the needle is at its lowest position, the shank of the needle should clear the button hole by at least 1/32 inch (0.8 mm).

If this condition is not met, a longer needle or one with a shorter shank must be used. For sewing shank buttons, consideration should be given to the diameter of the button, thickness of the shank, and the height of the work support block. The selection of the proper needle diameter is determined by the size of thread, weight of material, and the type of button used.


What needle types are available for the UNION SPECIAL 200-45 sewing machine?

The following needles are available for Class 200 machines like the UNION SPECIAL 200-45:

Blade Dia. Short Long with Short Shank Long with Extra Short Shank Extra Long with Extra Short Shank
.036″ 29S-090/036 29LSS-090/036
.040″ 29S-100/040 29LSS-100/040 29LES-100/040
.044″ 29S-110/044 29LSS-110/044 29LES-110/044 29ELS-110/044
.049″ 29S-125/049 29LSS-125/049 29LES-125/049 29ELS-125/049
.054″ 29LSS-140/054

How do I change the needle on my UNION SPECIAL 200-45?

When changing the needle, make sure that it is inserted in the needle bar as far as it will go, with the long groove to the front and the spot or scarf to the rear. Tighten the set screw securely.

A cross hole drilled in the needle bar can also be used to determine if the needle has been inserted as far as it will go. Immediately discard any needle which may have a hooked or blunt point.


How should I install the UNION SPECIAL 200-45 sewing machine and motor?

To assure proper operation, the following assembly and operating procedures are recommended:

Installing the Machine:

1. The tableboard is prepared with two sets of mounting holes. Using the rear set of holes will position the front end of the cylinder at the edge of the tableboard. Using the front set of holes extends the end of the cylinder three inches to the front of the tableboard.

2. Determine the required location and assemble the machine to the tableboard using the isolators, bolts, nuts, and washers provided.

Mounting the Motor:

1. The motor hanger is mounted to the underside of the tableboard using either the front or rear set of holes that correspond to the position selected for the machine. The pulley shaft of the motor should be located directly below the machine pulley.

2. Assemble the motor to the motor hanger and install the motor pulley onto the shaft.

3. Attach the “V” belt and adjust the motor hanger up or down to put the proper tension on the belt.

4. Assemble the chain from the treadle to the stop motion trip lever of the machine.


What are the electrical requirements for the drive motor on a UNION SPECIAL 200-45?

The motors listed below are for use with Class 200 machines:

Motor No. Specifications
28741-H 1 phase, 110 volts, 60 Hz.
28742-AG 3 phase, 208/220 volts, 50/60 Hz.
3 phase, 380/440 volts, 50/60 Hz.

How should I lubricate my UNION SPECIAL 200-45 sewing machine?

The UNION SPECIAL 200-45 requires manual lubrication. Oiling twice daily is sufficient when the machines are used under normal operating conditions. Extreme duty cycles may require oiling more frequently. Prior to use in the morning and again before use in the afternoon, oil should be applied to the oil holes marked in RED on the machine.

The oil used should be a good quality straight mineral oil having a Saybolt viscosity of 90 to 125 seconds at 100° Fahrenheit.

For access to all the parts that require oiling it is necessary to remove or open the covers. The oil holes are easily located by referring to the THREADING AND OILING DIAGRAM.

Idler Pulley Lubrication:

The pulley contains a reservoir for grease to lubricate its bearings. Access to the reservoir is obtained by removing the plug screws marked “A” on the THREADING AND OILING DIAGRAM. A tube of grease is furnished with the machine. Periodically the plug screw should be removed, the grease level checked and replenished if required.


What is the recommended operating speed for the UNION SPECIAL 200-45?

The recommended speed of the UNION SPECIAL 200-45 is 1500 R.P.M.


How do I start the stitching cycle on the UNION SPECIAL 200-45?

The stitching cycle for the UNION SPECIAL 200-45 is automatic. To start, press the operating treadle firmly downward, then release. The cycle will be repeated should the treadle remain in the down position.


How do I adjust the clutch on my UNION SPECIAL 200-45?

Check: Machine is in STOP POSITION. Push the idler pulley in so that it contacts the clutch. There should be 1/32 inch (0.8 mm) clearance between the ball and lever.

Procedure: Loosen the locknut and turn the screw inward for more clearance or out for less. Tighten the locknut.


How do I adjust the stop motion plunger on the UNION SPECIAL 200-45?

Check: Machine is in STOP POSITION. The plunger head should extend 3/8 inch (9.5 mm) from the bracket.

Procedure: Loosen the locknut and turn the adjusting nut to obtain the correct dimension. Tighten the locknut.


How do I adjust the stop motion pawl and latch on my UNION SPECIAL 200-45?

Check: Depress the treadle to engage the machine into RUN POSITION. Rotate the pulley two complete revolutions in the operating direction, then release the treadle. Measure the distance from the plunger head to the upper edge of the vertical face on the clutch disc. This distance should be 1/4 inch (6.3 mm).

Procedure: Loosen the clamp screw for the stop motion trip lever. Hold the lever down firmly so that the roller is against the cam, then move the plunger up or down to the correct dimension. Tighten the clamp screw securely. Maintain thrust on the shaft so that both the plunger assembly and the stop motion trip lever are against the bed casting without any end play. After this adjustment, it is necessary to re-check the clutch setting.


How do I adjust the stop motion cam (inner cam) on my UNION SPECIAL 200-45?

Check: Machine is in STOP POSITION. Rotate the stop motion disc in the reverse direction so that the vertical face moves away from the plunger head, approximately 1/4 revolution. Stop at a point where the plunger head is located at the edge of the cut-out for the pawl. The plunger head should now be in contact with the stop motion disc. The right stop motion cam should be in position so that the front of the recess on the cam is touching the roller.

Procedure: Loosen the set screws. With the plunger head positioned as described in “Check”, rotate the cam in the operating direction so the front edge of the recess contacts the roller. Tighten the screws.


How do I adjust the soft stop cam (outer cam) on my UNION SPECIAL 200-45?

Should the impact noise of the machine stopping increase after considerable use, the soft stop cam requires adjustment.

Procedure:

1. Loosen the screws for the outer cam.

2. Slightly advance the outer cam by rotating it clockwise.

3. Tighten the screw.

4. Now repeat the stop motion cam (inner cam) adjustments, described earlier.

It may be necessary to repeat this procedure until the impact noise is minimized.


How do I set the clamp drive cams on the UNION SPECIAL 200-45?

The clamp drive cams are set properly when the white timing marks on both cams align with the timing pins in the bed.

Procedure:

1. Engage the machine into RUN POSITION by pressing down firmly on the rear of the stop motion plunger assembly and rotate the pulley three complete revolutions in the operating direction. The second set of screws for the cams should now be accessible.

2. Loosen both set screws then rotate the pulley in the reverse direction until the machine again rests in STOP POSITION.

3. Loosen the remaining set screws for both cams, and align the timing marks on the cams to the timing pins in the machine bed. Tighten both screws.

4. Again engage the machine into RUN POSITION and rotate the pulley three revolutions until the second set of screws are accessible. Tighten these screws and return the machine to STOP POSITION by rotating the pulley in the reverse direction.


How do I adjust the clamp lifting link on my UNION SPECIAL 200-45?

Check: Machine is in STOP POSITION. On completion of the stitching cycle, the button clamp is lifted by the cam driven lift lever and link. The link moves in to engage the lever as the stop motion plunger drops into stop position. Improper adjustments may cause the machine to repeat the stitching cycle or affect the clamp lifting.

Procedure: Manually operate the machine and observe the lever and link while approaching the STOP POSITION. The lip of the lever must pass the leading edge of the notch point in the link with minimum clearance and seat evenly in the notch without interference. Adjust the link by loosening the screw and moving the lever on the shaft. To position the lift lever, loosen the set screws in its collars.


How do I set the number of stitches on my UNION SPECIAL 200-45?

The UNION SPECIAL 200-45 produces 16 stitches on two or four hole buttons and can be set to complete only half of the cycle, producing 8 stitches on two hole buttons only.

To produce 16 stitches, ensure the machine is in STOP POSITION. The stitch selector knob should be at its low position and the corresponding gap should be closed.

To produce 8 stitches, pull the selector knob out and move it to the top of the slot. This will open the gap, causing the machine to stop in the middle of the normal cycle. After making this setting, position the selector lever at the rear of the machine for TWO HOLE buttons.


How do I adjust the needle bar height on the UNION SPECIAL 200-45?

Check: Engage the machine into RUN POSITION and rotate the pulley two complete revolutions in the operating direction. Stop with the needle bar in its lowest position. The upper line of a pair of timing lines should be even with the lower edge of the needle bar bushing. The pair of timing lines used must correspond to the length of the needle used as follows:

SHORT NEEDLE: UPPER PAIR OF LINES

LONG NEEDLE: MIDDLE PAIR OF LINES

EXTRA LONG NEEDLE: LOWER PAIR OF LINES

Procedure: Loosen the clamp screws, then move the needle bar up or down to align the timing line with the bushing as explained above. Tighten the screws securely. The needle bar thread guide should rest against the needle bar clamp. With the needle bar at its highest position, the needle clamp screw must clear the slot in the bushing.


How do I adjust the loop positioning finger on my UNION SPECIAL 200-45?

Before making this adjustment, insert a new needle and remove the feed plate.

Check: Move the needle guard away from the needle by loosening its screw and sliding it forward. Engage the machine into RUN POSITION and rotate the pulley two complete revolutions, continuing until the needle bar reaches its lowest position. At this point, the leading edge of the positioning finger should be approximately .002 inch (.05 mm) from the needle.

Procedure: Tilt the machine on its side. Loosen the set screws in the sleeve and slide it forward slightly. Temporarily tighten one of the screws. Loosen the screws in the cam and slide the cam to the front or rear to locate the positioning finger to the needle as described above. Tighten the cam screws. Now move the sleeve back so that it contacts the cam. Tighten the sleeve screws securely.


How do I adjust the looper timing on my UNION SPECIAL 200-45?

Check: Engage the machine into RUN POSITION and rotate the pulley two complete revolutions. Continue rotation until the needle bar reaches its lowest position (the top timing line of a pair of lines on the bar should align with the bottom of the bushing). Again rotate the pulley slightly so that the second timing line is aligned with the bottom of the bushing. The point of the looper should now be located at the center of the needle on its backside with approximately .002 inch (.05 mm) clearance to the needle.

Procedure: Loosen the screws on the sleeve and rotate the sleeve so that the point of the looper is at the center of the needle. Push the sleeve against the cam and tighten the screws. Now loosen the clamp screw on the looper collar and position the looper point .002 inch (.05 mm) from the needle. Tighten the screw.


How do I adjust the needle guard on my UNION SPECIAL 200-45?

Check: When the needle bar is at its lowest position, the guard should be .002 inch (.05 mm) from the needle.

Procedure: With the needle bar at its lowest position, loosen the screw and move the guard so that it is located .002 inch (.05 mm) from the needle. Tighten the screw securely.


How do I adjust the feed plate on the UNION SPECIAL 200-45?

Check: The feed plate should be located so that it will not interfere with the needle at any point of its travel.

Procedure: Loosen the two screws and move the plate to the desired position. Tighten the screws. This adjustment should be made while manually rotating the pulley so that the machine completes a full stitching cycle. The selector lever at the rear of the machine should be in the Four Hole Button position.


How do I adjust the thread tension and tension release levers on my UNION SPECIAL 200-45?

Thread Tension: The main thread tension located behind the automatic tension determines how tight the button is sewn. The amount of tension applied to the thread will vary relative to the type of thread, material, and the thickness of the button used. Normally, only a light tension is required.

Tension Release Levers:

Check: Thread the machine according to the Threading Diagram. Engage the machine into RUN POSITION and rotate the pulley two complete revolutions in the operating direction. The tension release lever should be located as close as possible to the tension discs of the main tension assembly without making contact.

Procedure: Loosen the screw and move the lever in the required direction. Tighten the screw. The tension release lever for the automatic tension is adjusted in a similar manner.


How do I adjust the thread nipper on my UNION SPECIAL 200-45?

The thread nipper should pinch and hold the thread tight while it is being cut.

Check: Engage the machine into RUN POSITION. There should now be 3/64 inch (1.2 mm) clearance between the nipper and block.

Procedure: Loosen the screw and move the nipper in the required direction. Tighten the screw.


How do I adjust the thread pull-off lever on my UNION SPECIAL 200-45?

At the end of the stitching cycle, the thread pull-off lever should pull enough additional thread from the spool to form the first stitch of the next cycle.

Check: Engage the machine into RUN POSITION and pull the thread taut against the thread guides. The pull-off lever should not contact the thread. Turn power “ON” and sew several buttons on scrap material. The pull-off lever is set correctly when a length of thread 1/4 inch (6.3 mm) to 3/8 inch (9.5 mm) remains on the underside of the fabric at the right hole of a two hole button, or the right rear hole of a four hole button.

Procedure: The pull-off lever is adjusted by loosening its screw and moving the block. If the thread tail left was too long, move the lever to the right away from the thread. If the thread tail appears at the left hole of the button, then the starting thread is too short, causing the machine to miss the first stitch. In this case, move the pull-off lever to the left so it will pull off more thread.


How do I adjust the automatic thread tension on my UNION SPECIAL 200-45?

The automatic thread tension controls how tight the stitch is pulled up on the underside of the fabric.

Check: Turn the tension nut down four or five turns. The automatic tension should release the thread when the needle bar, on its upstroke, has risen so that the lower edge of the beveled top is at DIMENSION “X” above the upper needle bar bushing. DIMENSION “X” is determined by the length of the needle used.

NEEDLES USED DIMENSION “X”
Short 1 5/16 inch (33.3 mm)
Long 1 11/16 inch (42.8 mm)
Extra Long 1 7/8 inch (47.6 mm)

Procedure: Rotate the pulley in the operating direction so that the needle bar has risen to correspond to the proper DIMENSION “X”. Loosen the two hexagonal head screws in the needle lever hub and rotate the shaft until the upper tension disc begins to rise. Tighten the screws.


How do I adjust the thread trimming knives on my UNION SPECIAL 200-45?

Check: With the needle threaded, button and fabric in place to be sewn, engage the machine into RUN POSITION. Rotate the pulley in the operating direction until on the last needle penetration before STOP POSITION the clamp lift rod starts to move. Now, tilt the machine on its side, continue rotating the pulley and observe the knife movement. The thread separator must push the front thread of the loop forward so the knives do not touch it. The scissor action of the knives should sever the rear thread only.

Procedure:

1. To move the thread separator, loosen its screw.

2. The knives can be positioned to the rear thread by loosening their screw and moving the knives to the front or rear as required. Tighten the screw.

3. The lateral position of the knives relative to the thread may be adjusted by loosening the screws on the arm and moving the arm. Tighten the screws.

Further lateral adjustment of the knives can be obtained by loosening screws and moving the link in the slot. To increase or decrease the distance the knife travels, loosen the locknut and position the stud up or down in the slot. Moving the stud down will increase the travel.


How do I set up the UNION SPECIAL 200-45 for sewing two-hole or four-hole buttons?

Two Hole Buttons:

1. Measure the distance between the two holes of the button (from center to center).

2. Set the indicator to the corresponding dimension on the graduated scale by loosening the nut.

3. Move the selector lever at the rear of the machine to the two hole position.

Four Hole Buttons:

1. Repeat the procedure for the two hole button, except move the selector lever at the rear of the machine to a dimension on the graduated scale corresponding to the distance between the button holes.

Final Alignment Check (for both types):

Place a button into the clamp jaws so that the button holes correspond to the needle travel across the arm. Engage the machine into RUN POSITION and rotate the pulley in the operating direction until the needle has penetrated all the holes in the button. The needle should enter the center of each hole. The button clamp may be shifted slightly to obtain this condition by loosening the clamp screws. It may also be necessary to deviate slightly from the graduated scale dimensions previously used.

For UNION SPECIAL 200-45 Only:

Complete the procedure described above. Then adjust the opening of the clamp jaws so that the button is held firmly in position, yet allows the button to be easily loaded. To do this, loosen the screw and move the stop lever as required.


How do I adjust the button clamp height on a UNION SPECIAL 200-45?

Check: Machine is in STOP POSITION. The button clamp should be adjusted so that its bottom is approximately 1/2 inch (12.7 mm) from the feed plate.

Procedure: Loosen the set screw and raise or lower the rod as required. Now engage the machine into RUN POSITION. The clamp in the down position must contact the feed plate, and there should be clearance between the lifting rod and the roller.


How do I adjust the clamp stop pin on my UNION SPECIAL 200-45?

The stop pin is located inside the clamp tension spring.

Check: Machine is in STOP POSITION and the clamp is raised. The stop pin is set correctly when the clamp can be lifted manually an additional 1/32 inch (0.8 mm).

Procedure: Loosen the locknut and turn the lower section to lengthen or shorten the pin. Tighten the locknut.


How do I adjust the clamp lifting lever stop on my UNION SPECIAL 200-45?

Check: Machine is in STOP POSITION and the clamp is raised. There should be 1/32 inch (0.8 mm) clearance from the bottom of the clamp lifting lever stop to the nipper bar bearing block. This can be checked by manually lifting the clamp lift lever and noting the travel until the stop contacts the bearing block.

Procedure: Loosen the two screws securing the stop block and move the block up or down as needed. Tighten the screws.


How do I adjust the button clamp opener on my UNION SPECIAL 200-45?

This procedure is for the UNION SPECIAL 200-45 only.

Check: The button clamp jaws should start to open just before the clamp begins to lift. The clamp jaws should then open to release the button and return to the clamping position when the clamp is completely raised.

Procedure:

1. To open the jaws earlier, loosen screws and move the front tripping block to the rear. Moving the block to the front will cause the jaws to open later. Tighten the screws.

2. To close the jaws sooner, remove the screw securing the knife drive link arm, then loosen the screw for the rear tripping block and move it down. Raising this block will open the jaws wider for a longer duration.

3. When the desired condition is obtained, retighten the screw and replace the screw securing the knife drive link arm.

To disengage the clamp opener, reposition the tripping blocks so they do not come in contact.

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