SINGER 101-3 (01) PDF MANUAL

The electric motor, which is built in Machines 101-3 and 101-11, can be operated on either direct current or 25 to 75 cycle alternating current without change of adjustment. The standard windings of the motor are for 110 volts, but motors can also be furnished for any voltage between 50 and 250. Special motors for 32 volts direct current and above 75 cycle alternating current have also been developed and are available.

Obtain the following information from the Electric Light Company which supplies the electric current for the circuit to which the motor is to be connected:

1. Whether alternating current or direct current is used.

2. What is the voltage? The voltage must be within the range stamped on the motor name plate (B, Fig. 2).

3. If the electric service line is alternating current, what is the number of cycles? The number of cycles must be within the range stamped on the motor name plate.

4. The current and voltage of the electric service line and, if alternating current, the number of cycles can be verified by looking at the name plate on electric meter installed by the local Electric Light Company.

Turn the motor cover (C, Fig. 2) over toward the balance wheel and pull it outwardly to remove it, thus exposing the motor name plate (B, Fig. 2).

When replacing the motor cover (C) have the two notches in the cover engage the pins at the top and bottom of the motor frame.

Pull out the leaf supporting rod (A, Fig. 3) at the left of the table, and raise the two leaves at the top of the table, allowing the left leaf to rest on the supporting rod and the right leaf to hang loosely at the right of the table, as shown in Fig. 4.

With the right hand raise the front hinged portion (B, Fig. 5) of the table, and at the same time, place the left hand under the front side of the arm of the machine, as shown in Fig. 5, being very careful not to touch the electric lamp or shade, and raise the sewing machine head, then replace the hinged portion of the table and lower the machine so that it rests on the table, as shown in Fig. 6.

Pull down the knee lever (Q) to the vertical position as shown in Fig. 6.

Push the two sockets at one end of the electric cord as far as they will go on the two connectors under the cabinet as shown at P in Fig. 6. Attach the plug at the other end of the cord to the nearest electric socket and the machine is ready for operation.

With the right hand push in the lever (L, Fig. 7) at the right of the table and at the same time with the left hand raise the hinged flaps of the table top as shown at M in Fig. 7.

Fold down the back flap as shown in Fig. 8, then fold down the centre and back flaps as shown in Fig. 9, having the catch (N, Fig. 8) enter the spring clip (O, Fig. 8).

Raise the sewing machine head out of the cabinet as shown in Fig. 5, being very careful not to touch the electric lamp or shade, then turn down the hinged flaps of the table top and lower the machine so that it rests on the table as shown in Fig. 10.

Pull down the knee lever (Q) to the vertical position as shown in Fig. 10.

Push the two sockets at one end of the electric cord as far as they will go on the two connectors under the cabinet as shown at P in Fig. 10. Attach the plug at the other end of the cord to the nearest electric socket and the machine is ready for operation.

After removing the cover, remove the knee lever (S, Fig. 11) from the two cleats (R, Fig. 11).

Hold the knee lever in a horizontal position with the handle toward the left as shown in Fig. 12, and push the socket of the lever over the controller shaft (T, Fig. 12).

Allow the knee lever to drop to the vertical position as shown in Fig. 13 and the notch in the lever socket will engage the collar on the controller shaft.

Push the two sockets at one end of the electric cord as far as they will go on the two connectors as shown at U in Fig. 13. Attach the plug at the other end of the cord to the nearest electric socket and the machine is ready for operation.

The balance wheel must always turn over toward the operator.

Do not run the machine with the presser foot resting on the feed without cloth under the presser foot.

Do not run the machine when both bobbin case and needle are threaded, unless there is material under the presser foot.

Do not try to help the machine by pulling the fabric, lest you bend the needle. The machine feeds the work without assistance.

The slide over the bobbin case should be kept closed when the machine is in operation.

Reach over the top of the machine and move the switch lever (V, Fig. 14) to the right or left as desired.

To remove the bulb, first hold the Singerlight socket tightly with one hand and with the other hand turn the shade halfway around until the pin (W, Fig. 14) for the shade is in the slot of the shade, then gently slip the shade off and allow it to hang free as shown in Fig. 14.

Do not attempt to unscrew the bulb. It is of the bayonet and socket type and does not unscrew. Press the bulb into the socket and at the same time turn it until the bulb pin (X, Fig. 14) is out of the notch in the socket, then withdraw the bulb and shade.

To insert a new bulb, pass the bulb through the collar of the shade with the slot of the shade upward.

Hold the socket tightly with one hand and at the same time with the other hand press the bulb into the socket with the bulb pin (X, Fig. 14) in the slot and turn it until this pin is in the notch.

Then slip the shade over the socket, the pin (W, Fig. 14) for the shade entering the slot of the shade.

See that the pin (W) is in the groove of the shade and turn the shade halfway around, or until it is at the top.

When finished with your sewing, always turn off the switch at the electric socket.

Turn off the electric current at the electric socket or switch.

With the left hand grasp the machine around the front side of the arm, turn it slightly back on its hinges, and at the same time, with the right hand, raise the front hinged portion (B, Fig. 5) of the table, lower the machine head, being careful not to touch the electric lamp or shade; then lower the hinged portion (B).

On Cabinet 40 close the leaves, push in the supporting rod and swing back the knee lever.

On Cabinet 130305, unfold the hinged flaps of the table top and place them into position, then swing back the knee lever.

Remove the plug from the electric socket and coil the electric cord around the machine.

Raise the knee lever to a horizontal position, remove it and replace it into the two cleats (R, Fig. 11) in the cover.

Replace the cover and lock it.

Raise the presser foot (F, Fig. 15) by means of the presser bar lifter (H, Fig. 15) to prevent injury to the foot (F, Fig. 15) and feed (E, Fig. 15). Place a piece of cloth under the presser foot and let the foot down upon it.

Turn on the electric current, press the knee lever to the right. As the pressure on the knee lever is increased the speed of the machine is increased, the speed being controlled entirely by the amount of pressure on the knee lever. Operate the machine in this way, without being threaded, until you have become accustomed to guiding the material and operating the knee lever.

Draw to the left the slide in the bed of the machine and take out the bobbin with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, as shown in Fig. 16.

It is necessary to understand the stop motion (B, Fig. 17) by which the balance wheel (C, Fig. 17) can be released. To release the balance wheel, turn the stop motion screw (B, Fig. 17) over toward you. It is necessary to hold the balance wheel while loosening the stop motion screw.

Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle (E, Fig. 17) and push it up closely against the shoulder having the small pin in the shoulder enter the hole in the side of the bobbin.

Put the spool of thread on the spool pin (1, Fig. 17) located on the bed of the machine at the right.

Draw the thread under and between the tension discs (2, Fig. 17) on the bed of the machine at the right of the spool pin, then pass the thread through the hole in the left side of the bobbin (3, Fig. 17) from the inside.

Press down on the bobbin and the bobbin winder latch (A, Fig. 17) will drop down and hold the bobbin winder pulley against the hub of the balance wheel.

Then press the knee lever the same as for sewing.

The end of the thread must be held by the hand until a few coils are wound and should then be broken off.

When sufficient thread has been wound upon the bobbin, the bobbin winder is automatically released from the balance wheel.

If the pressure of the bobbin winder pulley against the hub of the balance wheel is insufficient for winding the bobbin, loosen the adjusting screw (F, Fig. 17) and press down on the bobbin winder until the pulley is in contact with the hub of the balance wheel, then tighten the adjusting screw (F).

Bobbins can also be wound while the machine is sewing.

Hold the bobbin between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, the thread drawing on top from the right toward the left, as shown in Fig. 18. Place the bobbin into the bobbin case and draw the thread into the slot (1, Fig. 19) in the bobbin case at the left, as shown in Fig. 19.

Draw the thread backward between the bobbin case and the tension spring until it reaches the notch (2, Fig. 20), then pull the thread toward the right, as shown in Fig. 20. When closing the slide, leave just enough space for the thread to pass through, as shown at 3, in Fig. 21.

Turn the balance wheel over toward you until the needle bar moves up to its highest point.

Loosen the thumb screw (B, Fig. 15) in the needle clamp (G, Fig. 15) and put the needle up into the clamp as far as it will go, with the flat side of its shank toward the right, then tighten the thumb screw.

Turn the balance wheel over toward you until the thread take-up lever (5) is raised to its highest point.

Place the spool of thread on the spool pin at the top of the machine.

Pass the thread into the thread guide (1) at the left, down, under and from right to left between the tension discs (2).

Hold the spool tightly in the right hand and with the left hand pull the thread up under the thread take-up spring (4) until it enters the retaining fork (3).

Then pass the thread up and from right to left through the hole (5) in the end of the thread take-up lever.

Down into the eyelet (6) at the front of the face plate.

Into the lower wire thread guide (7).

Then from left to right through the eye of the needle (8).

Draw about two inches of thread through the eye of the needle with which to commence sewing.

With the left hand hold the end of the needle thread, leaving it slack from the hand to the needle.

Turn the balance wheel over toward you until the needle moves down and up again to its highest point, thus catching the bobbin thread.

Draw up the needle thread and the bobbin thread will come up with it through the hole in the throat plate, as shown in Fig. 23.

Lay both threads back under the presser foot and close the slide.

Place the material beneath the presser foot, lower the presser foot and commence to sew, pressing the knee lever (Q, Fig. 6) to the right to start the machine.

When sewing thick material, it may be necessary to turn the balance wheel over toward you by hand to start the machine. This should also be done if the machine stops when sewing across thick seams.

Let the thread take-up lever rest at its highest point, raise the presser foot and draw the fabric back and to the left about two inches; pass the threads over the thread cutter (A, Fig. 23) and pull down lightly to sever them. Leave the ends of the threads under the presser foot.

For ordinary stitching the needle and bobbin threads should be locked in the centre of the thickness of the material, thus:

FIG. 24. PERFECT STITCH (Illustrative text, not an actual image)

If the tension on the needle thread is too tight, or if that on the bobbin thread is too loose, the needle thread will lie straight along the upper surface of the material, thus:

FIG. 25. TIGHT NEEDLE THREAD TENSION (Illustrative text, not an actual image)

If the tension on the bobbin thread is too tight, or if that on the needle thread is too loose, the bobbin thread will lie straight along the under side of the material, thus:

FIG. 26. LOOSE NEEDLE THREAD TENSION (Illustrative text, not an actual image)

The tension on the needle thread should only be regulated when the presser foot is down. Having lowered the presser foot, turn the small thumb nut (A, Fig. 15) at the front of the tension discs over to the right to increase the tension. To decrease the tension, turn the thumb nut over to the left.

The tension on the bobbin thread is regulated by the larger screw (A, Fig. 18) which is nearest the back in the bobbin case tension spring. To increase the tension, turn the screw over toward you. To decrease the tension, turn the screw over from you. When the tension on the bobbin thread has been once properly adjusted it is seldom necessary to change it, as a correct stitch can usually be obtained by varying the tension on the needle thread.

Stop the machine with the needle at its lowest point. Raise the presser foot and turn the work as desired, using the needle as a pivot.

The length of the stitch is regulated by the feed regulating disc (D, Fig. 17) located on the bed of the machine, at the right. This disc is marked with arbitrary numbers, ranging from 6 to 30, which indicate the various lengths of stitches that the machine will make, No. 6 being the longest stitch and No. 30 the shortest stitch. (The numerals do not denote the number of stitches to the inch). The length of stitch that the machine is ready to make is indicated by the number nearest the arrow marked on the cloth plate of the machine.

To increase the length of stitch, turn the feed regulating disc (D) over to the right until the number of the desired length of stitch is nearest to the point of the arrow. To shorten the stitch, turn the feed regulating disc over to the left until the number of the desired length of stitch is nearest to the point of the arrow.

For ordinary family sewing it is seldom necessary to change the pressure on the material. If sewing fine silk or flimsy material, lighten the pressure by turning the thumb screw (A, Fig. 29) on the top of the machine over to the left. To increase the pressure, turn this thumb screw over to the right. The pressure should be only heavy enough to prevent the material from rising with the needle and to enable the feed to move the work along evenly; a heavier pressure will make the machine run hard.

Use a short stitch and as light a tension as possible on the needle thread so as to leave the thread loose enough in the seam to allow the goods to stretch if necessary.

A stitch to ravel easily can be made if desired, by having the tension on the needle thread so light that the bobbin thread will not draw into the goods, but lie straight, as shown in Fig. 26.

To ensure easy running and prevent unnecessary wear of the parts which are in movable contact, the machine requires oiling, and if used continuously, it should be oiled each day. With moderate use, an occasional oiling is sufficient.

Oil should be applied at each of the places shown by arrows in Figs. 27, 28 and 29. One drop of oil at each point is sufficient with the exception of the oil hole (C, Fig. 27) into which hole about 12 drops of oil should be poured each time the machine is oiled. Oil holes are provided in the machine for bearings which cannot be directly reached.

To oil the hook mechanism, draw to the left the slide in the bed of the machine and after removing the lint and dust which may have accumulated around the sewing hook, take out the bobbin and apply a drop of oil to the oil hole and bobbin case bearing, as indicated by arrows in Fig. 28, then replace the bobbin and slide plate.

To oil movable parts in the head of the machine, take out the screw (B, Fig. 27) near the lower end of the face plate and loosen the screw (A, Fig. 27), near the upper end of the face plate, then raise the plate and slip it off over the head of the screw (A). Put one drop of oil into each of the holes and joints thus uncovered, as shown in Fig. 29.

The gears of the motor should occasionally be lubricated with grease from the tube of Singer Motor Lubricant which is furnished with the machine.

Unscrew the spool pin (E, Fig. 27) – a slot being cut at the top of the spool pin to permit the use of a screwdriver.

After removing the spool pin and felt washer (D, Fig. 27) insert the tip of the motor lubricant tube into the spool pin hole and force a small quantity of the lubricant through the hole to lubricate the gears.

Then replace the spool pin and felt washer.

Under no circumstances should oil be used at this hole, but only the lubricant.

When the machine is shipped from the factory, the two motor grease cups (HH, Fig. 30) are filled with sufficient lubricant for one year’s use, under ordinary circumstances. At least once a year thereafter, these grease cups should be removed, thoroughly cleaned out and refilled with the Singer Motor Lubricant, furnished with the machine.

(a) Remove the motor cover (C, Fig. 2).

(b) Remove the screw (F, Fig. 27) which holds the motor.

(c) Withdraw the entire motor (J, Fig. 30) from the machine by turning it slightly from side to side and at the same time pulling it toward you. The motor should only be withdrawn far enough to expose the two grease cups (HH, Fig. 30). Do not disconnect any of the electric wiring of the machine or the motor.

(d) Unscrew the two grease cups (HH, Fig. 30).

(e) Both the wicks and the interior of the grease cups should be thoroughly cleaned of all old grease. Then replace the wicks in the cups and refill the cups with Singer Motor Lubricant (not oil).

(f) Fill the well (K, Fig. 31) in which the spiral pinion (L, Fig. 31) revolves, with Singer Motor Lubricant (not oil).

Apply ordinary vaseline to the teeth of the two bevel gears (M, Fig. 32) next the spiral gears. (The greasing of these two bevel gears should be done at the same time when the motor grease cups are refilled, inasmuch as they can only be reached when the motor has been withdrawn from the sewing machine head).

(h) Replace the grease cups, being sure that the wicks (GG, Fig. 30) enter the small holes which lead to the armature shaft.

(i) Replace the motor in the machine.

(j) Replace the screw (F, Fig. 27). The final position of the motor has an important bearing on the free running of the machine, and it may be necessary to slightly shift the motor to the left or right before the final tightening of the screw (F, Fig. 27).

(k) Replace the motor cover.

There are three sets of bevel gears in the machine, as shown at (M, Fig. 32) and (N and O, Fig. 33). These bevel gears should be greased once a year, preferably at the time of greasing the motor.

The method of greasing the upper set of bevel gears (M, Fig. 32), i.e., those which are located in close proximity to the motor itself, has been explained under the heading “To Lubricate the Motor.”

The two lower sets of bevel gears (N and O, Fig. 33) are exposed by removing the two round sheet metal covers located in the bottom of the machine. This can be done with a small screw driver.

Ordinary vaseline should be applied to the teeth of these two sets of gears in the same manner as described for the upper bevel gears in 3(g) under the heading “To Lubricate the Motor.” After lubrication, replace the sheet metal covers.

If the machine runs hard after standing idle for some time, use a little kerosene in the oiling places, run the machine rapidly, then wipe clean and oil.

See that the presser foot or attachments are securely fastened by the thumb screw.

Do not sew heavy seams or very thick goods with too fine a needle. A large needle and thread to correspond should be used on heavy work.

See that the needle is not bent and avoid pulling the material when stitching.

If the needle thread breaks it may be caused by:

Improper threading.

Tension being too tight.

The thread being too coarse for size of needle.

The needle being bent, having a blunt point, or being set incorrectly.

If the bobbin thread breaks it may be caused by:

Improper threading of bobbin case.

Tension being too tight.

The needle may not be accurately set into the needle bar or the needle may be blunt or bent. The needle may be too small for the thread in use.

Raise the needle to its highest point. Remove the presser foot and attach the foot hemmer in its place (see Fig. 34).

Clip off the right hand corner of the cloth, so that it will take the roll easily, turn up the edge about a quarter of an inch, insert it in the mouth of the hemmer and draw or push it along until under the needle.

Then let down the presser bar, and after taking two or three stitches, draw gently on the ends of the threads to help the work along till the feed catches it.

In order to produce a smooth even hem, the mouth of the hemmer must be kept just full.

Fig. 34 shows also what is known as a bag seam or fell, made by passing two pieces of fabric through the hemmer together and hemming them down.

Start the hem as previously explained, and when it is well started, raise the needle to its highest point.

Raise the hemmer to relieve its pressure on the hem, pass the end of the lace through the slot in the side of the hemmer, under the back of the hemmer and over the hem, as shown in Fig. 35.

Take care that the hem is not displaced in the hemmer and that the needle goes down through the lace and hem together.

Then let down the presser bar and guide the lace over the front of the hemmer, keeping it well into the slot.

The two pieces of cloth to be felled should be laid one over the other, right sides together, the edge of the under piece being a little farther to the right than the upper piece.

Stitch them together, using the hemmer as a presser foot, the front end of the hemmer forming a guide for the edges of both pieces, the upper piece being guided by the inside and the under piece by the outside of the projecting front of the foot hemmer (see Fig. 36).

Then open the work out flat, wrong side up, the edges standing up straight, and taking the edges near the beginning of the seam in the right hand, and the ends of the threads in the left hand, draw the edges into the hemmer, which will turn them as in hemming. Guide the second row of stitching by following the first row with the inside of the projecting front of the foot hemmer (see Fig. 37).

Remove the presser foot and attach the adjustable hemmer in its place, as shown in Fig. 38. This hemmer will turn hems from ⅛ inch to 1 inch wide.

The adjustment is made by loosening the thumb screw on the hemmer and moving the slide to the right or left until the hem turned is of the desired width.

Enter the edge of the cloth into the hemmer under the scale and draw it back and forth until the hem is formed, stopping with the end under the needle.

Lower the presser bar and commence to sew, being careful to so guide cloth as to keep hemmer full.

Felling can also be done with the adjustable hemmer by following instructions on page 38 (for Foot Hemmer felling).

To make a hem more than one inch wide take out the thumb screw in the hemmer and remove the slide and pointer; fold and crease down a hem of the desired width; pass the fold under the extension at the right of the hemmer, and the edge into the folder, as shown in Fig. 39, and proceed to stitch the hem.

Remove the presser foot and attach the binder in its place.

Pass the binding through the scroll of the binder and draw it back under the needle.

Place the edge of the goods to be bound between the scrolls of the binder and draw it under the needle.

Lower the presser bar and sew as usual.

To make French folds, proceed as directed for binding, except that the fold is stitched on to the face of the material instead of on the edge (see Fig. 40). After loosening the binder set screw and adjusting the binder, the line of stitching can be brought nearer the centre, this being more effective when making French folds.

Remove the presser foot and attach the tucker in its place.

The width of the tuck is determined by the scale of figures nearest the needle, which shows in eighths and sixteenths of an inch the distance of the edge of the fold from the line of stitching.

The crease or mark for the second and following tucks is determined by the scale nearest the operator and this is set by the line in front of the needle hole in the presser foot.

For blind tucks without spaces, set both scales at the same figure; to make spaces between the tucks move the front scale farther to the left until the desired space is obtained.

Having adjusted the scales for tuck and space as desired, fold the material and crease by hand; pass the folded edge between the spring and spur near you, then between the two blades of the second scale, and back under the presser foot; draw to the right against the guide, lower the presser bar; see that the lever for the needle clamp to strike is in its backward position, so as to form a crease for the next tuck, then proceed with the first tuck.

For the second tuck, fold carefully at the crease made by the spur and place the edge of the first tuck underneath and against the spur at the left. The spur will serve as a guide and will also make a distinct crease for the next tuck. Always place the last tuck against the spur to ensure perfect work.

When making the last tuck, the lever upon which the needle clamp strikes while tucking should be raised to its highest point; while the lever is in this position, no crease for a succeeding tuck is made upon the goods.

Remove the presser foot and attach the ruffler in its place, connecting the arm with the needle clamp, as shown in Fig. 42.

Raise the adjusting lever (C, Fig. 42) and move it to the left so that the projection (B, Fig. 42) will enter the slot marked “1” in the adjusting lever (C) when the lever is released. Place the material to be ruffled between the lower or separator blade and the ruffling blade, draw the material slightly back of the needle, lower the presser bar and commence to sew.

To make a finer gather or plait, shorten the stroke of the ruffling blade by turning the regulating thumb screw (A, Fig. 42) up, also shorten the stitch. To make a fuller gather or plait, lengthen the stroke of the ruffling blade by turning the regulating thumb screw (A) down, also lengthen the stitch. By varying these adjustments, many pleasing varieties of work can be accomplished.

Raise the adjusting lever (C, Fig. 43) and move it to the right, so that the projection (B, Fig. 43) will enter the slot marked “5” in the adjusting lever when the lever is released. The ruffling blade will then move forward and back once every five stitches. The fullness of the gathers or plaits is regulated by the thumb screw (A, Fig. 43) and the length of stitch. To make a fuller gather or plait, turn the thumb screw (A) down, also lengthen the stitch. To make a finer gather or plait, turn the thumb screw (A) up, also shorten the stitch.

Raise the adjusting lever (C, Fig. 44) and move it until the end of the projection (B, Fig. 44) enters the small depression directly under the star on the adjusting lever (C). As long as the adjusting lever rests on the projection, the ruffling blade will remain inoperative.

Adjust the ruffler for five stitch ruffling, having as many plaits in each group as desired, then adjust the ruffler to omit making the gathers or plaits. When the desired space has been made, adjust the ruffler back to five stitch ruffling again. By alternately making groups of plaits and plain spaces, as shown in Fig. 44, very attractive work can be produced.

Place the lower piece of material below the separator blade, the piece of material to be ruffled under the ruffling blade and over the separator blade and the upper piece of material over the ruffling blade, as shown in Fig. 45, and proceed.

Place the band below the separator blade, the piece to be ruffled between the separator blade and the ruffling blade, and proceed. The ruffler should never be operated without cloth between the blades.

Remove the presser foot (F, Fig. 15), take out the needle, remove the needle clamp (G, Fig. 15).

Put on the stripping foot and needle clamp combined, No. 66649 (A, Fig. 46).

Replace the needle and put on the feed cover plate, No. 66628 (B, Fig. 46).

Then thread the machine as instructed on page 22 with the addition that the thread must be passed through the hole (C, Fig. 46) in the bottom of the stripping foot (the yielding ring) before passing the thread through the eye of the needle.

Having placed the work to be darned or embroidered in two embroidery hoops, place the work under the needle, as shown in Fig. 47.

Holding the needle thread in the usual way with the finger and thumb of the left hand and turn the balance wheel over toward you with the right hand to draw up the bobbin thread.

Let down the Presser Bar to restore the tension on the needle thread, then start the machine by pressing the knee lever, and steadily move the work front and back in the usual way. The darning or embroidery will be quickly accomplished with ease and without skipping of stitches or breaking of thread.

After you are through with the darning or embroidery, raise the presser bar, take out the embroidery hoops encircling the work, take off the feed cover plate and remove the stripping foot. Replace the needle clamp and needle and presser foot, and the machine is again ready for the usual sewing.

To ensure accurate guiding of the work when sewing close to the edge of the goods, the cloth guide (D, Fig. 15) should be used. Fasten the cloth guide to the cloth plate of the machine by means of the clamping thumb screw (C, Fig. 15) inserting the thumb screw into either one of the two screw holes in the cloth plate of the machine. The cloth guide can be adjusted to bring the edge of the goods as close to the line of stitching as desired.

When it is necessary to replace a slide plate in a cloth plate, this can be done by removing the cloth plate from the machine and slipping the slide plate into the slideway from the throat plate end.

Or, if desired, the slide plate can be replaced with the cloth plate attached to the machine by holding the slide plate at an angle of 45 degrees across the slide opening and slipping one end of the spring under one side of the slideway, then tipping the slide plate and slipping the other end of the spring under the opposite side of the slideway and swinging the slide plate around straight, so that it will drop into position.