PFAFF 1069 (01) PDF MANUAL

The following tools and gauges are required:

Needle rise gauge: 00870 136-01

C clamp: 00870 137-01

Gauge for bobbin case position finger: 00880 133-01

Universal bridge-type gauge: 63112 120-08

Combination spanner, 5.5 mm: 43111 010-04

Slip washer fitting tool, 2.3 kz: 07437 003-20

Slip washer fitting tool, 3.2 kz: 07437 003-30

Slip washer fitting tool, 4.0 kz: 07437 003-40

Slip washer fitting tool, 5.0 kz: 07437 003-50

Slip washer fitting tool, 6.0 kz: 07437 003-60

Slip washer fitting tool, 10.0 g: 07347 003-86

Allen key 3 mm: 07433 005-50

Remove housing covers in the following order:

1. Top arm cover

2. Base plate

3. Bottom cylinder-arm cover

4. Rear arm-stand cover

5. Front arm-stand cover

6. Top cylinder-arm cover

7. Face cover

8. Bottom arm cover

Replacement of housing parts is done in reverse order.

Correct setting:

The cleated belt should be tensioned sufficiently to eliminate any backlash of the sewing hook in its normal direction of rotation. However the machine should still turn without binding.

Adjustment:

1. Loosen screw 1 (Fig. 1).

2. Adjust the position of tensioning roller 2 accordingly.

3. Tighten screw 1.

Check:

Check this adjustment (see „Correct setting”).

Correct setting:

The feed dog must be centered in its slots (Fig. 2).

Check:

Make a visual check of the position of the feed dog in its slots.

Adjustment:

1. Loosen the two screws 29 and 41 (Fig. 2a).

2. Loosen screw 6.

3. Move feed bar rod 36 together with center studs 30 and 40 sideways until the feed dog is centered in its slots.

4. Tighten the two screws 29 and 41.

5. Tighten stud 5 to eliminate any play of link 8.

6. Tighten screw 6.

Final check:

The feed dog must be positioned exactly in the middle of the feed slots and the feed bar rod must neither bind nor have any end play.

Requirement:

The left and right clearance of the feed dog in the feed slot must be the same (see Fig. 2).

Check:

Check the position of the feed dog by visual check.

Adjustment:

1. Loosen screw 8a (Fig. 2a).

2. Unscrew the bolt 8c to the right.

3. Loosen screw 6.

4. Remove slip washer 6a.

5. Remove bolt 5.

6. Loosen the two screws 29 and 41.

7. Shift the feed bar 36 together with the two centre-bolts 30 and 40 laterally until the feed dog is in the middle of the needle plate cutout.

8. Firmly tighten the two screws 29 and 41.

9. Disconnect the spring 4a.

10. Remove the needle plate.

11. Pull the feed dog to the front and release it.

The complete food dog rock shaft 36 must easily slide to the rear.

12. Loosen screw 172 (Fig. 2b).

13. Move the top feed fully to the front and rear.

The complete top feed must move easily and without binding (if necessary remove binding).

14. Install bolt 8c with washer situated to the left of pull rod 8b without play (Fig. 2a).

15. Move the top feed fully to the front and rear.

The complete top feed and bottom feed must move easily and without binding.

16. Tighten screw 8a and again check for free movement.

17. Position crank pin 173 with pull rod laterally in such a way that the complete top feed and bottom feed can be easily moved (Fig. 2b).

Tighten screw 172 and again check for freemovement.

18. Install pin 5 (Fig. 2a).

19. Insert circlip 6a.

20. Set connecting bar 8 close against pin 5.

21. Tighten srew 6.

Re-check:

The feed dog must now be exactly in the middle of the needle plate cutout and the complete top feed and bottom feed must neither have play nor bind.

Correct setting:

When the feed dog is at its highest point its teeth should protrude from the needle plate by 0.9 mm (Fig. 3).

Check:

1. Turn the stitch length control to 6 (on Cl. 1025 to 4).

2. Place bridge-type gauge No. 63-112 120-08 onto the needle plate over the feed dog.

3. Turn the balance wheel until the feed dog is at its highest point.

4. Make a visual check.

5. The feed dog must not touch the gauge. There should be a clearance of 0.1 mm between both parts.

Adjustment:

1. Loosen screw 3 by 1/8 turn only (Fig, 3a).

2. Turn eccentric stud 4 until its lobe is at the back (basic position).

3. Turn eccentric stud 4 counter-clockwise until the feed dog height is correct.

4. Tighten screw 3 again.

Final check:

1. Turn the balance wheel and check the height of the feed dog in its highest position.

2. When you turn the balance wheel the drop-feed control must neither bind nor strike any other parts.

3. Drop the feed dog and check the proper working of the drop-feed mechanism.

Correct setting:

With the presser bar lifter raised there should be a clearance of 8 mm between the needle plate and the sole of the zigzag sewing foot.

Note: For adjustment take the clear-view sewing foot.

Check:

1. Raise the presser bar lifter.

2. Attach the clear-view sewing foot.

3. Place the bridge-type gauge No. 63-112 120-08 under the clear-view sewing foot (Fig. 4a).

4. The clear-view sewing foot should rest on the gauge without any play.

5. However the gauge should not raise the clear-view sewing foot.

Adjustment:

1. Loosen screw 47 (Fig. 4).

2. Turn the clear-view sewing foot until it is parallel with the feed slots.

3. Push presser bar guide 48 downwards with the aid of a screwdriver.

4. At the same time tighten screw 47 a little.

5. Remove the gauge.

6. Lower the clear-view sewing foot by means of the presser bar lifter so that it rests on the needle plate.

7. Turn the clear-view sewing foot until it is parallel with the feed slots, and the needle slots in the foot and the needle plate are properly aligned.

8. Raise the sewing foot.

9. Tighten screw 47.

Final check:

1. Place the bridge-type gauge under the clear-view sewing foot.

2. Check to make sure the height is exact.

Requirement:

With the presser bar lifter raised there should be a clearance of 8 mm between the needle plate and the sewing foot shoe of the zigzag foot.

Check:

1. Raise the presser bar lifter.

2. Insert the zigzag sewig foot shoe.

3. Drop the feed dog.

4. Fully raise the presser bar lifter and hold it there.

5. Insert sewing foot gauge no. 63114 690-35 from behind under the zigzag foot and into the cutouts of the needle plate simultaneously (Fig. 4c).

6. Lower the presser bar lifter again to the normal position.

The zigzag foot must rest on the sewing foot gauge without play and parallel.

The sewing foot gauge, however, should not lift the zigzag foot, and the needle thread tension release 44 must be without play (Fig. 4d).

Adjustment:

1. Loosen the three screws 46, 47 and 50.

2. Turn the zigzag foot with the presser bar lifter raised until it is parallel to the bars of the clearance gauge (Figs. 4c).

3. Press the presser foot guide 48 firmly downward with a screwdriver.

4. Tighten screw 47 firmly at same time.

Re-check:

1. Press the presser bar lifter briefly upwards and release it again.

The zigzag foot must rest on the sewing foot gauge without play and parallel.

The needle thread tensin release 44 must be without play.

The presser bar lifter must be in its raised position.

Note: The two screws 46 and 50 are fastened later when setting the top feed-foot height.

Requirement:

The front edge of the top feed foot should be between the first and second tooth point of the feed dog (Fig. 4e).

Check:

1. Raise the presser bar lifter.

2. Unscrew and remove the sewing foot.

3. Set the stitch length at “6”.

4. Engage the top feed foot.

5. Turn the hand wheel until the rising feed dog is flush with the surface of the needle plate.

6. Lower the presser bar lifter.

7. Perform a visual check.

Adjustment:

1. Loosen screw 43 (Fig. 4f).

2. Raise the presser bar lifter only enough to allow the top feed foot to rest on the feed dog.

3. Push the top feed foot simultaneously to the front or to the rear until the front edge is between the first and second tooth point of the middle tooth rows.

4. Lower the presser bar lifter and tighten screw 43.

Ensure that shaft 42 has no play.

Re-check:

See “check” above.

Requirement:

The top feed foot must be 2 mm higher than the lower edge of the sewing foot shoe of the zigzag foot in its highest working position (Fig. 4g).

Note: This setting must only be performed when the height adjustment of the presser bar is correct!

Check:

1. Raise the presser bar lifter.

2. Insert the zigzag sewing foot shoe.

3. Engage the top feed foot.

4. Turn the hand wheel until the needle bar is in its lowest position (Fig. 4g).

Caution: The hand wheel must now be no longer turned:

5. Drop the feed dog.

6. Press the presser bar lifter fully up and hold it there.

7. Insert sewing foot gauge no. 63114 690-35 from behind under the zigzag foot and into the cutouts of the needle plate simultaneously.

8. Lower the presser bar lifter again to the activated position.

9. Briefly press upward then release the top feed foot 51 approximately 2 mm against its spring-pressure.

10. Check that the top feed foot rests only lightly on the sewing foot gauge.

Adjustment:

1. Loosen screws 46 and 50 (Fig. 4g).

2. Push the counter bearing 45 slightly downwards until top feed foot 50 rests lightly on the sewing foot gauge.

3. Tighten screw 46 in this position.

Re-check:

Check for light resting and freedom of play of the top feed foot on the sewing foot gauge as in “Check”.

Adjusting the guiding piece:

1. Fully raise and hold the presser bar lifter.

2. Remove the sewing foot gauge.

3. Lower the presser bar lifter again to the actuated position.

4. Turn the hand wheel to place the needle bar exactly in its highest position.

5. Set guiding piece 49 at a distance of 0.2 mm from the cross-head 52.

6. Tighten screw 50.

Re-check:

Turn the hand wheel and check the clearance of to 0.2 mm.

Correct setting:

The feed regulator links should not have any end play.

Check:

Check the amount of play of the feed regulator links (Fig. 5).

Adjustment:

1. Loosen screws 6 and 26.

2. Push feed driving eccentric 32 toward the right against its bearing.

3. Push stud 5 toward the right until feed driving connection 34 contacts edge 33 of feed driving eccentric 32.

4. Push shaft 27 and gear segment 28 with regulating crank 10 toward the left until all links are close together.

5. Tighten screws 26 and 6.

Final check:

1. Turn the stitch length control to 6 (on Cl. 1025 to 4).

2. Disconnect spring 12.

3. Check the feed regulator links for free movement without any play.

4. Replace spring 12.

Correct setting:

When the stitch length control is set at 0, the feed dog should only move up and down.

Check:

1. Turn the stitch length control to 0.

2. Place a piece of fabric under the sewing foot.

3. Lower the sewing foot.

4. Run the machine.

5. The fabric must not move forwards or backwards.

Requirement 1: The dot marks on the gear segments must be opposite each other (Fig. 6a).

Requirement 2: When in its basic position, the lobe of hexagon-end eccentric 194 should be up.

Adjustment:

1. Loosen screw 11, using a 5.5-mm spanner (Fig. 6).

2. Push screw 11 up or down until the center lines of the studs of regulating crank 10, link 9 and link 8 are in line (see dash-dot line in Fig. 6).

3. Tighten screw 11.

Final check:

1. Place a piece of fabric under the sewing foot.

2. Lower the sewing foot.

3. Run the machine.

4. The fabric must not move.

How the feed works:

When the needle has risen clear of the material, the feed dog moves upwards and out of the needle plate. In this position, it moves the fabric toward the rear. Shortly before the end of its feed stroke, the take-up lever is at its highest point (top dead center – t.d.c.). With the stitch length set at 6 mm, the feed dog continues to move toward the rear by 0,6 mm. On completion of its feed stroke, the feed dog descends below the needle plate and the needle enters the fabric. Below the needle plate the feed dog returns to its starting position.

Correct setting:

When the needle bar has risen 2 mm from its lowest point (bottom dead center – b.d.c) the marks on rim 33 of feed driving eccentric 32 and connection 34 should be opposite each other (Fig. 7).

Check:

1. Remove the needle.

2. Turn the balance wheel to bring the needle bar to its lowest point.

3. Place the C clamp (870-13700) on needle bar 50 and tighten its screw just lightly (Fig. 7a).

4. Push the 2-mm blade of the gauge (870-13600) with its cutout onto the needle bar above the C clamp.

5. Push the C clamp and the 2-mm blade of the gauge up against the needle bar frame.

6. Tighten the knurled screw of the C clamp (Fig. 7a).

7. Turn the balance wheel forwards and backwards a little.

8. If there is any play at the gauge, repeat the above procedure.

9. Remove the 2-mm gauge.

10. Turn the balance wheel in sewing direction until the C clamp contacts the needle bar frame (Fig. 7b). The setting marks on rim 33 of feed driving eccentric 32 and connection 34 must now be opposite each other (Fig. 7).

Adjustment:

1. If the setting is incorrect, remove the C clamp.

2. Loosen the three screws 24 in the lower cleated belt sprocket.

3. Replace the C clamp and repeat the above procedure until the needle bar has risen 2 mm from the bottom of its stroke and the C clamp again contacts the needle bar frame (Fig. 7b and initial check).

4. Turn the long driving shaft 35 in its normal direction of rotation until the setting marks on the feed driving eccentric and the connection are opposite each other (Fig. 7).

5. Tighten one of the screws 24.

Final check:

1. Turn the balance wheel backwards a little, then forwards again until the C clamp contacts the needle bar frame. The setting marks must now be opposite each other.

2. Firmly tighten all three screws 24.

The length of the forward- and backward-controlled utility stitches is adjusted when the machine is sewn off according to Section 27.

Dismantling:

1. Loosen screw 6 (Fig. 9).

2. Remove slip washer 7.

3. Pull out stud 5.

4. Remove slip washer 13.

5. Disconnect connection 14.

6. Remove the feed regulator links and connection 34 by pulling them toward the left.

7. Take out screws 17, 19 and 25.

8. Take out the complete automatic mechanism from the bottom.

Note: Before you replace the automatic mechanism make sure the dot marks on the two gear segments are exactly opposite each other (Fig. 10).

Refitting:

1. Replace the automatic mechanism in the machine.

2. Turn in the two long screws 19 and 25 at the bottom and the short screw 17 at the top, tightening them just lightly.

3. Push the feed regulator links onto the stud of regulating crank 10.

4. Insert stud 5.

5. Replace slip washer 7.

6. Push stud 5 toward the right until the feed regulator links are positioned close together, but still move freely.

7. Tighten screw 6.

8. Replace connection 14.

9. Replace slip washer 13.

Correct setting:

The two gears should be properly aligned and in mesh with each other, but should have no play.

Check:

Check the gears for free movement by turning the balance wheel, turn them back and forth to see if they have any play, and make a visual check to determine whether they are properly aligned.

Adjustment:

1. Loosen screws 17, 19 and 25 and adjust gears 22 and 23 so that they are properly aligned and have no play (Fig. 11).

2. Tighten the three screws just lightly.

Final check:

1. Repeat the initial check (see above).

2. Tighten screws 17, 19 and 25 securely.

Note: Now adjust the feed regulator links as instructed in Section 5 of this Manual.

Correct setting:

When the regulating eccentric is in its basic position, its lobe should point upwards and abt. 45° to the left.

Adjustment:

1. Push straight-stitch button No. 10.

2. Loosen screw 56 (Fig, 12).

3. Turn regulating eccentric 57 until its lobe points upwards and abt. 45° to the left.

4. Turn the regulating eccentric clockwise or counter-clockwise until the needle is centered in the needle hole.

5. Tighten screw 56.

Correct setting:

The sideways motion of the needle should begin when its point has left the needle plate, and should be completed before it enters the thickest fabric sewn on this machine, i.e. at a point 8 mm above the needle plate (Fig. 13).

Check:

1. Push button 16 for the widest zigzag stitch.

2. Remove the sewing foot.

3. Turn the balance wheel in its normal direction until the needle ascends on the left of its throw and its point is exactly flush with the surface of the needle plate (Fig. 13a).

4. To check the sideways motion, place your left forefinger on the needle bar frame and the sewing head, and turn the balance wheel very slowly with your right hand.

Adjustment:

1. Loosen the two screws 21 (Fig. 13b).

2. On PFAFF 1025 and 1027 machines push the small gear 22 toward the right until it is out of mesh.

3. Turn the balance wheel in its normal direction until the point of the ascending needle is flush with the surface of the needle plate (Fig. 13a).

4. Turn the large gear 23 in the direction of arrow until feeler finger 18 (Fig. 13c) is exactly at the beginning of the lobe of cam 20.

5. Hold the large gear 23 in this position to stop it from turning.

6. On PFAFF 1025 and 1027 machines turn the small gear 22 until screw 21 is accessible, then push it toward the left until it is in mesh again.

7. Tighten one screw 21.

Final check:

1. Repeat the initial check (see above).

2. Tighten the two screws 21.

Correct setting:

With the stitch width control set at the widest zigzag stitch, the needle throw should be centered in the needle plate slot (Fig. 14).

Check:

1. Remove the sewing foot.

2. Insert a new needle.

3. Push button 16 for the widest zigzag stitch.

4. Turn the balance wheel and check the distance between the needle and the edge of the needle plate slot when the needle descends on the right and left of its throw.

Adjustment:

1. Loosen screw 63 and push stop 62 toward the left (Fig. 15a).

2. Loosen screw 56 (Fig. 14a).

3. Turn regulating eccentric 57 until both distances are equal.

4. Tighten screw 56.

Final check:

1. Turn the balance wheel and check the distance again.

Note: Stop 62 is adjusted under Section 15.

Correct setting:

With all push buttons disengaged, the needle should be positioned abt. 0.2 mm to the left of the extreme left position of the needle when it makes its widest zigzag stitch. The needle must not strike the left edge of the needle plate however.

Check:

1. Push button 16 for the widest zigzag stitch.

2. Turn the balance wheel until the descending needle has reached a position abt. 1 mm above the needle plate (Fig. 15).

3. Push button 20 (bartacking stitch).

The needle should now move toward the left by abt. 0.2 mm.

Adjustment:

1. Push button 16.

2. Loosen screw 63 (Fig. 15a).

3. Push stop 62 toward pin 61 until there is a clearance of 0.2 mm between both parts.

4. Tighten screw 63.

Final check:

Alternately push buttons 16 and 20 and check whether the needle moves abt. 0.2 mm in the process, but does not strike the needle plate.

Time required: 15 to 20 minutes

Dismantling the motor:

1. Unplug the male and female plugs.

2. Take out the four screws and remove the housing insert.

3. Take out the two screws 202 (Fig. 15a1).

4. Push the master switch in as far as it will go, at the same time pulling the cover plate forward and then up.

5. Pull out sewing light plug 60 (Fig. 15a2).

6. Take out screws 58 and 59 and remove both washers.

7. Lift motor sprocket 133 out of cleated belt 135 and take the motor out at the front.

Dismantling the automatic mechanism:

1. Disconnect spring 200 at the top (Fig. 15a2).

2. Pull out retaining ring 203 (Fig. 15a1).

3. Take out the two screws 205.

4. Take the automatic mechanism out at the bottom.

Replacing the automatic mechanism:

1. Loosen the three screws 207 of worm 206 (Fig. 15a1).

2. Push worm 206 toward left.

3. Replace the automatic mechanism from the bottom, at the same time inserting pin 204 into the eye of connecting rod 201.

4. Finger-tighten the two screws 205, making sure the automatic mechanism is positioned parallel to the walls of the housing and is not pulled forward in the process.

5. Push retaining ring 203 (2.3) onto pin 204.

6. Connect the top end of spring 200 to the feeler lever (Fig. 15a2).

Replacing the motor:

1. Before you refit the motor, measure the leakage current (see section 61 or 63).

2. Pull of the master switch botton.

3. Replace the motor and simultaneously mount cleated belt 135 on motor sprocket 133 (Fig. 15a2).

4. Replace screws 58 and 59 together with their washers and screw them in a little.

5. Tension the cleated belt correctly and tighten both screws secureley.

6. Plug in sewing light plug 60.

Note: Do not make this adjustment unless it is absolutely necessary.

Correct setting:

When the automatic mechanism is disengaged, lift-off pin 208 should be centered exactly in the notch (Fig. 15b1).

Initial check:

1. Turn dial 210 to the dot mark.

2. Move feeler lever 209 to and fro (Fig. 15b1).

Lift-off pin 208 should be centered in the notch and must not contact the left wall of the notch during its normal motion.

Adjustment:

1. Loosen screw 211 a little (Fig. 15b2).

2. Turn dial 210 until lift-off pin 208 is centered correctly in the notch (Fig. 15b1).

3. Tighten screw 211 secureley (Fig. 15b2).

Final check:

Move the feeler lever to and fro an repeat the initial check.

Correct setting:

With the machine set at the widest ornamental-stitch pattern, the needle should clear both ends of the needle plate slot at the same distance (fig. 15c1).

Initial check:

1. Remove the sewing foot.

2. Insert a new needle.

3. Disengage the automatic utility-stitch mechanism.

4. Turn the dial to “V”.

5. Turn the balance wheel and check to see if the needle clears both ends of the needle plate slot at the same distance.

Adjustment:

1. Loosen the three screws 207 of worm 206 1/8 of a turn only (Fig. 15c2).

2. Turn the balance wheel until the needle point is flush with the surface of the needle plate (Fig. 15c3).

3. Turn worm 206 forwards until it contacts its left stop and the small positioning hole 212 is positioned exactly opposite the automatic mechanism bracket (see Fig. 15c2).

4. Loosen the two screws 205 a little.

5. Push the automatic mechanism bracket toward the right or left until the needle is centered in the needle plate slot (Fig. 15c4).

6. Tighten the two screws 205 secureley.

Final check:

The needle must be centered correctly in the needle plate slot.

Note: After the needle throw has been adjusted, check the right and left needle positions in the needle plate slot.

Correct setting:

The sideways motion of the needle should begin when its point has left the needle plate slot and should be completed before it enters the thickest fabric sewn on this machine, i.e. at a point 8 mm above the needle plate (Fig.15c1).

The motion pulses for the needle vibration emanating from the automatic utility-stitch and ornamental stitch mechanisms should have the same direction at the same time.

Initial check:

1. Unscrew the base plate.

2. Turn dial 210 to the dot mark (Fig. 15d4).

3. Turn the balance wheel until fin 213 is positioned as illustrated in Fig. 15d2.

4. Turn the balance wheel just a little until the point of the ascending needle is flush with the surface of the needle plate (Fig. 15c3).

5. Push the button for the wides zigzag stitch.

6. Turn the balance wheel just a little and check the beginning of the needle vibration.

7. Set the needle point flush with the surface of the needle plate (Fig. 15d3).

8. Disengage the zigzag stitch.

9. Turn dial 210 to “V’ (Fig. 15d4).

10. Turn the balance wheel just a little and check the beginning of the needle sideways motion.

Adjustment:

1. Take out the two screws 202 and remove the cover plate.

2. Turn dial 210 to the dot mark.

3. Loosen the three screws 207 of worm 206 by 1/8 of a turn only (Fig. 15d4).

4. Turn the balance wheel until fin 213 is positioned as shown in Fig. 15d2.

5. Push the button for the widest zigzag stitch.

6. Turn the balance wheel until the point of the needle ascending on the left of its throw is flush with the needle plate surface (Fig. 15d3).

Do not turn the balance wheel anymore!

7. Disengage the zigzag stitch.

8. Turn dial 210 to “V’.

9. Turn large worm 206 forwards until it contacts its left stop and the large dot mark 214 is positioned as shown in Fig. 15d4.

10. Continue turning worm 206 slowly until the needle begins moving toward the right (Fig. 15d3).

11. Hold cam stack 215 fast to keep it from turning (Figs. 15d5 and 15d6).

12. Turn worm backwards until a light bind is felt, and there is no play between worm 206 and worm wheel 216 (Fig. 15d4).

13. Tighten one screw 207.

Final check:

1. Repeat the initial check.

2. Tighten the two screws 207 secureley.

Timing the sewing hook normally consists of the following three adjustments:

1. Adjusting the needle rise,

2. the needle bar height, and

3. the hook-to-needle clearance.

The term ‘needle rise’ designates the amount the needle has to rise from the lowest point of its stroke until a thread loop has formed on its scarf side. When the needle is at the needle rise position, the point of the sewing hook should be positioned exactly opposite the needle. When the balance wheel is turned further, the point of the sewing hook should enter the thread loop, enlarge it and pass it around the bobbin.

The needle bar should be positioned vertically so that the point of the sewing hook can readily enter the thread loop above the needle eye when the machine is set for straight and zigzag stitching.

The sewing hook should be set as close to the needle as possible so that its point does not miss the thread loop.

The different adjustments of the sewing hook are carried out in the following sequence:

1. Hook-to-needle clearance

2. Bevel gear adjustment

3. Needle rise

4. Needle bar height.

Correct setting:

There should be a clearance of 0.2 mm between the rear side of the needle and the rear edge of the needle plate slot (Fig. 16).

Note: As system 130/705 H needles increase in size toward the front only, the point of a No. 100 needle is positioned exactly in the middle of the needle plate slot (as seen in feeding direction), while the point of a No. 80 needle is positioned slightly nearer the back edge of the needle plate slot (Fig. 16).

Check:

1. Insert a system 130/705 H needle, No. 100.

2. Push button 10 for straight stitching.

3. Attach the zigzag sewing foot.

4. Lower the sewing foot.

5. Turn the balance wheel until the needle is at its lowest point.

The needle should be the same distance from the front and back of the needle slots in sewing foot and needle plate.

Centering the needle in the needle slot of the sewing foot:

1. Loosen screw 54 (Fig. 16a).

2. Move stud 53 together with the collar and needle bar frame 52 forwards or backwards until the needle is centered exactly in the needle slot of the sewing foot (Fig. 16a).

3. Tighten screw 54.

Final check:

1. Raise the needle.

2. Place a piece of paper under the sewing foot and lower the latter.

3. Bring the needle to its lowest point.

4. The needle should be the same distance from the front and back of the needle slot in the sewing foot.

Centering the needle in the needle slot of the needle plate:

1. Raise the needle.

2. Remove the sewing foot.

3. Bring the needle to its lowest point.

4. Turn regulating eccentric 55 until the needle is the same distance from the front and back of the needle slot in the needle plate (Fig. 16b).

Final check:

Make a visual check with the machine set for straight and zigzag stitching.

Correct setting:

When the machine is set for straight stitch, there should be a clearance of 0.05 mm between the hook point and the bottom of the needle scarf (Fig. 17).

With the machine set for its widest zigzag stitch, the hook point should almost touch the needle when the latter is on the left of its throw.

Check:

1. Remove the needle.

2. Remove the sewing foot and the needle plate.

3. Remove the bobbin case.

4. Unscrew and remove the bobbin case position finger.

5. Remove the hook gib with bobbin case base by taking out the three screws with springs.

6. Insert a new system 130/705 H needle No. 80.

7. Push button 10 for straight stitching.

8. Turn the balance wheel until the hook point is opposite the center line of the needle.

9. Check the clearance between hook point and needle scarf.

10. Turn the sewing hook back and forth a little to see whether there is any end play in the hook shaft.

Adjustment:

1. If there is any end play in the hook shaft, loosen the two hook set screws 42.

2. Push bevel gear 38 with its shaft forwards and hook 44 backwards.

3. Tighten the two screws 42 again.

4. Loosen screw 37 in the lifting eccentric by 2-3 turns (Fig. 17a).

5. Loosen screw 39.

6. Turn the balance wheel and the sewing hook until the hook point is positioned opposite the middle of the needle scarf.

7. Reposition hook 44 together with hook shaft bushing 46 until there is a clearance of 0.05 mm between hook point and needle scarf.

8. Tighten screw 39 securely.

Note: The flat of hook shaft bushing 46 should face toward the right.

Final check:

1. Check whether the hook shaft turns freely.

2. Make an exact check of the hook-to-needle clearance again.

3. Push the bevel gear with the lifting eccentric toward the left until it turns freely, but has no play.

4. Tighten screw 37 on the flat of the shaft.

5. Check whether the machine runs freely.

Correct setting:

With the machine set for straight stitching and the needle in its central position, the point of the sewing hook should be exactly opposite the center line of the needle when the needle bar has risen 2,2 mm from its lowest point (Fig. 18).

Check:

1. Remove sewing foot and needle plate.

2. Push button 10 for straight stitching.

3. Turn the balance wheel to bring the needle bar to its lowest point.

4. Place the C clamp (870-137 00) on needle bar 50 and tighten its screw just lightly.

5. Push the 2,2-mm blade of the gauge (870-136 00) with its cutout onto the needle bar above the C clamp.

6. Loosen the screw of the C clamp and push the latter together with the 2,2-mm gauge up against the needle bar frame (Fig. 18a).

7. Tighten the knurled screw of the C clamp.

8. Turn the balance wheel forwards and backwards a little.

9. If there is any play at the gauge, repeat the above procedure.

10. Remove the 2,2-mm gauge.

11. Turn the balance wheel in sewing direction until the C clamp contacts the needle bar frame. The needle has thus risen by the amount of needle rise of 2 mm, and the hook point should now be exactly opposite the center line of the needle (Fig. 18).

Adjustment:

1. If the setting is incorrect, remove the C clamp.

2. Loosen the two screws 42 (Fig. 18b).

3. Replace the C clamp and repeat the above procedure until the needle bar has risen 2 mm from the bottom of its stroke (see initial check).

4. Turn the sewing hook until its point is exactly opposite the center line of the needle (Fig. 18).

5. Push sewing hook 44 against bevel gear 38 so that there is no play between them and securely tighten one screw 42.

Final check:

1. Turn the balance wheel backwards a little, then forwards until the C clamp contacts the needle bar frame.

2. The point of the sewing hook should now be exactly opposite the center line of the needle.

3. Remove the C clamp.

4. Check to make sure the hook shaft has no end play.

5. Tighten the two screws 42 securely.

These machines are equipped with a transverse double-revolution rotary hook. When the needle descends on the right of its throw, the hook point arrives at it a little earlier, and on the left of its throw a little later than it does in the central needle position. As a result, the hook point is positioned a little higher above the needle eye at the right-hand zigzag stitch than at the left-hand zigzag stitch (Fig. 19).

Correct setting:

When the machine is set for its widest zigzag stitch, there should be a clearance of 0.5 mm between the top of the needle eye and the bottom edge of the hook point (Fig. 19a).

Check:

1. Push button 16 for the widest zigzag stitch.

2. Turn the balance wheel until the needle ascends on the left of its throw and the hook point is exactly opposite its center line. There should now be a clearance of 0.5 mm between the top of the needle eye and the bottom edge of the hook point (Fig. 19a).

Adjustment:

1. Loosen screw 51 a little (Fig. 19b).

2. Adjust needle bar 50 vertically, however without turning it, until this distance is 0.5 mm.

3. Tighten screw 51.

Final check:

1. Check the distance of 0.5 mm.

The needle holder should be exactly at right angles and point toward the right.

Correct setting:

There should be a clearance of 0.7 mm between the bobbin case position finger and the bottom of the slot in the bobbin case base.

Check:

Clearance gauge 7.501 00-201 should pass freely, but without any play, between position finger and bottom of position slot (Fig. 20).

Adjustment:

1. Loosen the two screws 43.

2. Insert the clearance gauge.

3. Push position finger bracket 45 up against the clearance gauge at an angle of 90°.

4. Tighten the two screws 43 securely.

Final check:

Repeat the initial check.

Correct setting:

The bobbin should be wound evenly.

Check:

Make a visual check during bobbin winding.

Adjustment:

1. If more thread is being wound at the top of the bobbin, loosen retainer 65 of the bobbin winder tension and push it farther down on pin 64 (toward A in Fig. 21).

2. If more thread is being wound at the bottom of the bobbin, loosen retainer 65 and push it toward the end of pin 64 (toward B in Fig. 21). The bobbin winder tension is now positioned higher.

Final check:

Wind a bobbin and check for even winding.

Correct setting:

The bobbin winder should stop when the bobbin has been filled to within 1 mm from its edge.

Check:

Wind a bobbin and check how full it is when the bobbin winder stops.

Adjustment:

1. Loosen screw 66 (Fig. 22).

2. Push stop 67 to the left for less thread, or to the right for more thread.

3. Tighten screw 66 securely.

Final check:

Wind a bobbin and check how full it is when the bobbin winder stops.

Requirement:

With the threader key pushed fully downwards, threader prong 49 must pass through the middle between the top and bottom of the needle eye of a size 70 needle (Fig. 22a). Prong 69 must be the same distance from each side of the needle eye.

Check:

1. Insert a new needle, system 130/705 H, size nm 70.

Set the machine at “needle up” by intermittently operating the foot control

2. Fully depress the threader key and swing it fully to the front.

3. Perform a visual check.

Height adjustment:

1. Loosen the face plate screw and remove the face plate.

2. Disconnect pull-spring 61 at the top (Fig. 22c).

3. Push threader bar support 63 down and hold it there.

4. Loosen the Philips screw 62 only ¼ turn.

5. Push the threader key up or down until prong 69 is the same distance between the top and bottom of the needle eye (Fig. 22a).

6. Tighten screw 62 in this position.

Re-check 1:

1. Move threader prong 69 with the key to the rear and again to the front.

Perform a visual check of the prong height.

Lateral adjustment:

1. Turn threader prong 69 with key 68 to the front to the needle eye.

2. Loosen screw 67 only ½ turn (Fig. 22b).

3. Shift the prong bracket 66 laterally until the prong is exactly in the middle of the needle eye.

4. Thighten screw 67.

Re-check 2:

1. Move the threader prong to the rear and to the front again with the key.

Perform a visual check on the lateral position of the prong.

2. Turn the pull spring 61 two full turns anti-clockwise and connect it to hook 60 so that the spring body is to the outside left. This ensures that the threader is moved automatically to the rear.

3. Operate the threader key and perform a visual check, and check the function.

4. Insert and screw on the face plate.

Correct setting:

The resistance which has to be overcome when pulling a No. 50/3 cotton or a No. 100/3 synthetic thread through the bobbin thread tension should equal a weight of 20 to 25 g.

Check:

1. When a threaded bobbin case is suspended on its thread it should not slide down by its own weight.

2. However when you jerk your hand upwards the thread should gradually be pulled through the tension (Fig. 24).

3. There should be no pieces of thread left under the tension spring.

4. The tension spring should rest evenly on the bobbin case.

Adjustment:

Loosen the knurled screw a little, then tighten it again until you feel a resistance when pulling the thread.

Final check:

Repeat the initial check.

Note: Once the bobbin thread tension has been set correctly, make all subsequent tension adjustments on the needle thread.

Correct setting:

When the upper tension dial is set between 3 and 5, the needle and bobbin threads should interlock in the center of the fabric during both straight and zigzag stitching. This applies to a No. 50/3 cotton or a No. 100/3 synthetic thread (Figs. 25 and 25a).

Check:

Set the needle thread tension at 5 and sew straight and zigzag stitches at stitch length 2.

Adjustment:

1. Turn tension nut 68 toward the left as far as it will go (Fig. 25b).

2. Set the machine for the widest zigzag stitch and stitch length 2 and sew.

3. Turn tension nut 68 gradually toward the right until the threads are interlocked in the center of the fabric.

Final check:

Sew straight and zigzag stitches at stitch length 2.

The thread check spring prevents the descending needle from piercing the slack needle thread which is caused by the downward motion of the take-up lever.

Correct setting:

Thread check spring 71 should hold the needle thread taut until the needle point has entered the fabric.

Check:

1. Push button 10 for straight stitching.

2. Set the stitch length control at 6 (on Cl. 1025 at 4).

3. Place two plies of linen under the sewing foot.

4. Sew a few stitches.

5. Turn the balance wheel and watch the thread check spring to see where the lowest point of its stroke is. The needle thread has been properly released when it enters the needle eye in a curve and is not taut.

Adjustment:

1. Loosen screw 69 (Fig. 26).

2. Turn thread check spring sleeve 70 until thread check spring 71 is positioned correctly.

3. Tighten screw 69.

Final check:

Sew a few stitches and repeat the initial check.

Correct setting:

The machine should make stitches of the same length when sewing the right and left buttonhole seams (Fig. 27).

Note: When the feed regulator has been zeroed correctly (Section 6 of this Service Manual) the stitch length in both buttonhole seams should be the same.

Check:

Sew a buttonhole with filler thread and compare the stitch length in both seams.

Adjustment of old version:

1. If the stitches are longer in the right seam than in the left (Fig. 27a), loosen screw 11 with a 5.5-mm spanner and push it toward the rear (toward A) by 0.1-0.2 mm (Fig. 27c).

2. Tighten screw 11.

3. If the stitches are longer in the left seam than in the right (Fig. 27b), loosen screw 11 with a 5.5-mm spanner and push it toward the front (toward B) by 0.1-0.2 mm (Fig. 27c).

4. Tighten screw 11.

Adjustment of new version:

1. Turn screw 109 out almost completely.

2. Turn on the master switch.

3. Pull the cover plate forwards.

4. On the PFAFF 1029 pull out both plugs 132 and 93 (Fig. 27c).

5. Pull the cover plate out at the front.

6. On the PFAFF 1029 provisionally replace plug 132.

7. If the stitches are longer in the right seam than in the left (Fig. 27a), push the 5.5-mm spanner onto hexagon 194 and turn it toward A a little (Fig. 27d).

8. If the stitches are longer in the left seam than in the right (Fig. 27d), push a 5.5-mm spanner onto hexagon 194 and turn it toward B a little (Fig. 27d).

9. Replace the cover plate and plugs 132 and 93.

Final check:

Sew a buttonhole with filler thread and compare the stitch length in both seams.

Correct setting:

The machine should make stitches of the same length when sewing the right and left buttonhole seams (Fig. 27).

Note: When the feed regulator has been zeroed correctly (Section 6 of this Service Manual) the stitch length in both buttonhole seams should be the same.

Check:

Sew a buttonhole wit filler thread and compare the stitch length in both seams.

Adjustment:

1. If the stitches are longer in the right seam than in the left (Fig. 27a), turn the regulating screw toward “A” a little (Fig. 27 f).

2. If the stitches are longer in the left seam than in the right (Fig. 27b), turn the regulating screw toward “B” a little (Fig. 27f).

Final check:

Sew a buttonhole with filler thread and compare the stitch length in both seams.

Correct setting:

When the machine is set for the honeycomb stitch the needle should always enter the same holes during forward and backward sewing (Fig. 28).

Check:

1. Turn the stitch length control to the triple-stitch symbol.

2. Push button 15 for the honeycomb stitch.

3. Attach the zigzag foot.

4. Sew honeycomb stitches.

Adjustment:

1. Loosen hexagon screw 16 by ¼-½ turn with a 5.5-mm spanner (Fig. 28a).

2. Turn out screw 15 about two turns.

3. Tighten screw 16 a little.

4. Sew honeycomb stitches.

The honeycomb stiches must now be a little too long.

5. Loosen screw 16 a little.

6. Turn in screw 15 a little.

7. Tighten screw 16 just lightly.

8. Sew honeycomb stitches and check the needle punctures.

9. Gradually repeat the adjustment of screws 15 and 16 until the needle enters the holes made previously.

10. Tighten screw 16.

Final check:

Sew honeycomb and Elastic triple straight stitches and check to see if the needle always enters the holes made previously.

Dismantling circuit board and base plate:

1. Pull out the mains plug.

2. Take out the five screws from the machine base and remove the latter.

3. Pull off the two motor wires 74 (Fig. 29).

4. Take the motor cord out of the cable conduit.

5. Pull off the two-pin, seven-pin, five-pin and four-pin connectors 73.

6. Take the connector wires out of the cable conduit.

7. Take out the four screws from the base plate.

8. Remove the base plate and take the wires out at the top.

Connecting the test computer:

1. Push the two-pin plug 75 of the motor onto test plug 76 (Fig. 29a).

Important: Push an insulating tube 77 over the two motor wires 74 (Fig. 29b), but use extreme caution: 220 V, danger of short circuits and fatal electric shocks.

2. Plug test computer cord 81 into the sewing machine and the test computer (Fig. 29c).

3. Push test computer/foot control cable 82 onto pins 79 of the test computer (Fig. 29c).

4. Plug the second extra-wide plug 83 (arrow on arrow) into receptable 78 on the back of the test computer and lock the locking levers in position (Fig. 29c).

5. Plug sewing machine power cord 80 into the test computer and the mains socket.

6. Switch-on the master switch.

7. Make the necessary adjustments.

Note: The machine runs at a speed which cannot be regulated in the normal way.

Disconnecting the test computer:

1. Pull mains plug 80 out of the mains socket and out of the test computer.

2. Pull test computer cord 81 out of the sewing machine and the test computer.

3. Pull the two-pin plug 75 out of test plug 76 (Fig. 29a).

4. Pull the insulating tube from motor cord 74 (Fig. 29b).

5. Pull test computer/foot control cord 82 out of the test computer.

Dismantling base plate with circuit board:

1. Pull out the mains plug.

2. Take out the five screws from the machine base and remove the latter.

3. Lift catches 170 1 to 2 mm only and pull the four wire loom connectors out of the circuit board (Figs. 29e and 29f).

4. Take out the four screws of the base plate.

5. Carefully turn the base plate over.

6. Compress the two catches 190 of the motor plug and take the motor plug out at the top (Fig. 29i).

7. Pull the four wire looms out of the base plate.

8. Lay the base plate aside.

Connecting the test computer:

1. On Model 1067 push the two-bush connector 183 into the two-pin receptacle 183 of text box “C” (Fig. 29g).

2. On Model 1069 push the two-bush connector 174 into the two-pin receptacle 174 of text box “D”.

3. Connect cord 89 to the sewing machine and the test computer.

4. Push test computer/foot control cable 82 onto pins 79 of the test computer (Fig. 29e).

5. Plug the first extra-wide plug 161 with its guide up into the test box and lock it in place.

6. Plug the second extra-wide plug 83 with its guide up into receptacle 78 on the back of the test computer and lock it in place.

7. Plug sewing machine power cord 80 into the test computer and the mains socket.

8. Switch on the master switch.

9. Make the necessary adjustments.

Note: The machine runs at a speed which cannot be regulated in the normal way.

Preliminary adjustment of synchronizer:

1. Disengage the automatic mechanism.

2. Turn the balance wheel until the hook point is opposite the left side of the ascending needle (Fig. 30).

3. Turn the short plastic shaft 86 clockwise until its slot points toward the hand wheel. (Fig. 30a).

4. Insert the 3-mm hexagonal socket screw wrench without turning the plastic shaft.

5. Finger-tighten screw 85 of the synchronizer collar.

Adjusting the synchronizer:

1. Insert synchronizer plug 73 (five-pin connector) in the appropriate portion of test plug 76 (Fig. 30b).

2. Insert the second extra-wide plug 83 (arrow on arrow) into receptable 78 on the back of the test computer and lock the locking levers in position (Fig. 30c).

3. Plug the machine/mains power cord 80 into the test computer and the mains socket.

4. Check the hook-to-needle timing (Fig. 30). If the setting is correct, the green LED must now be on (Fig. 30d).

5. If the setting is not correct, the amber LED goes on (machine stops too late).

6. Hold the balance wheel fast.

7. At the same time turn the hexagonal screw wrench in the normal direction of rotation until the green LED lights up.

8. Tighten screw 85 and pull out the hexagonal screw wrench (Fig. 30a).

9. If the setting is not correct, the red LED will light up (machine stops too early).

10. Hold the balance wheel fast.

11. At same time turn the hexagonal screw wrench contrary to the normal direction of rotation until the green LED lights up.

12. Tighten screw 85 and pull out the hexagonal screw wrench (Fig. 30a).

Checking the timing of the synchronizer:

1. Turn the machine in its normal direction of rotation until the amber LED lights up.

2. Continue turning the balance wheel until the needle bar is at its lowest point.

3. Now turn the balance wheel very slowly until the LED changes from amber to green.

4. If the LED changes from amber to red (via green), turn the balance wheel backwards very slowly until the green LED lights up.

5. Disengage the utility-stitch mechanism.

The hook point must now be exactly opposite the left side of the needle (Fig. 30), the permissable variation being ± 0.5 mm.

Preparation of synchronizer:

1. Disengage the automatic mechanism.

2. Loosen set collar screw 85 (Fig. 30f).

3. Turn the balance wheel until the hook point is opposite the left side of the ascending needle (Fig. 30).

4. Turn the short plastic shaft 86 clockwise until its mark points upward toward the balance wheel (Fig. 30f).

5. Finger-tigthen screw 85 of the synchronizer.

Adjusting the synchronizer:

1. Push five-bush connector 172 into five-pin receptacle 172 of test box “D” (Fig. 30e).

2. Push the first extra-wide plug 161 with its guide up into test box “D”.

3. Push the second extra-wide plug 83 with its guide up or arrow opposite arrow into socket 78 on the back of the test computer and lock it in place (Fig. 30c).

4. Plug sewing machine power cord 80 into the test computer and the mains socket.

5. Check the hook-to-needle timing (Fig. 30). If the setting is correct, the green indicator light must now be on (Fig. 30d).

6. If the setting is not correct, the amber LED goes on (machine stops too late).

7. Hold the balance wheel fast.

8. At the same time push the 5.5-mm hexagon wrench onto hexagon 86 of the synchronizer (Fig. 30f) and turn it in the normal direction of rotation until the green LED lights up (Fig. 30d).

9. Tigthen set collar screw 85 and pull out the hexagon wrench.

10. If the setting is not correct, the red LED will light up (machine stops too early).

11. Hold the balance wheel fast.

12. At the same time turn the 5.5-mm hexagon wrench contrary to the normal direction of rotation until the green LED lights up.

13. Tigthen screw 85 and pull out the hexagon wrench.

Checking the timing of the synchronizer:

1. Turn the machine in its normal direction of rotation until the amber LED lights up.

2. Continue turning the balance wheel until the needle bar is at its lowest point.

3. Now turn the balance wheel further very slowly until the LED changes from amber to green.

4. If the LED changes from amber to red (via green), turn the balance wheel backwards very slowly until the green LED lights up.

5. Disengage the utility-stitch mechanism.

The hook point must now be exactly opposite the left side of the needle (Fig. 30), the permissible variation being ± 0.5 mm.

6. Replace the base plate according to the instructions given in Section 50a. of this Service Manual.

When all adjustments have been checked and the machine sews perfectly, a sewing sample should be made. This sample should show the most important seams that can be sewn on the repaired machine (Fig. 31). If the customer has any special wishes, the respective seams should also be included in the sewing sample.

Fig. 31 shows a sewing sample made on the PFAFF 1027. Sewing samples made on other machines with fewer buttons naturally include fewer seams.

1. Straight stitch, forwards and backwards Button 10 Stitch length 2

2. Zigzag stitch Button 16 Stitch length 2

3. Blindstitch Button 11 Stitch length 2

4. Joining stitch Button 12 Stitch length 2

5. Shell stitch Button 13 Stitch length 2

6. Elastic decorative stitch Button 14 Stitch length 1

7. Elastic stitch Button 15 Stitch length 0.5

8. Elastic triple straight stitch Button 10 Stitch length Ill

9. Pullover stitch Button 11 Stitch length Ill

10. Closed overlock stitch Button 12 Stitch length Ill

11. Overlock stitch Button 13 Stitch length Ill

12. Feather stitch Button 14 Stitch length Ill

13. Honeycomb stitch Button 15 Stitch length Ill

14. Elastic triple zigzag stitch Button 16 Stitch length Ill

15. Buttonhole Buttons 19, 20, 21 Stitch length

Dismantling:

1. Strip the thread tension assembly.

2. Remove circlip 86 (Fig. 32).

3. Remove slip washer 87 and tension dial 88.

4. Turn regulating screw 92 out of guide 93.

5. Remove guide 93.

6. Pull off the regulating screw and pressure spring 91.

7. Pull or tap out the cemented-in stud 97 together with friction sleeve 90 and tension discs 94, 95 and 96.

Reassembling:

1. Replace tension stud 97 together with the three tension discs and the friction sleeve.

2. Cement the tension stud into the bearing bracket with Omnivit-Rapid.

3. Push pressure spring 91 and regulating screw 92 onto tension stud 97.

4. Connect guide 93 at the right and turn the regulating screw 92 in at the left.

5. Refit tension dial 88, making sure the guide pin enters the worm.

6. Replace slip washer 87.

7. Replace circlip 86.

8. Refit the thread tension assembly.

9. Adjust the needle thread tension as instructed in Section 25.

(Time required: 60 to 90 minutes)

Dismantling:

1. Remove needle sewing foot and needle plate.

2. Remove the top cover and the accessory compartment.

3. Turn screw 109 out almost completely and pull the cover plate out to the front (Fig. 33f).

4. On the Pfaff 1029 strip the two sockets 93 and 123 illustrated (Fig. 33d).

5. On Pfaff 1025 and 1027 machines unscrew and remove the base plate.

6. On the Pfaff 1029 take out the five base plate screws and remove the base plate.

7. Pull out the four wire looms 73 together wit the sockets (Fig. 33a).

8. Remove the two wires 74 together with their terminals.

9. Take out the four base plate screws, pull out the wire looms and remove the base plate.

10. Loosen screw 85 (Fig. 33b).

11. Take out synchronizer 84.

12. Unscrew the cylinder arm cover.

13. Loosen screw 164 in needle bar crank 106 (Fig. 33).

14. Take out screw 165.

15. Loosen screw 1 in idler 2.

16. Pull arm shaft 76 toward the right and, as you do so, throw off cleated machine belt 77 and cleated motor belt 78.

17. Take out seres 17, 19 and 25 (Fig. 33c).

18. Loosen the two screws 21 and remove gear 22 by pulling it toward the right (Fig. 33).

19. Push the automatic mechanism toward the front somewhat and pull cleated machine belt 77 out between large gear 23 and the end of the shaft (Fig. 33c).

Reassembling:

1. Pull the new cleated machine belt 77 between large gear 23 and the end of the shaft and mount it on lower belt sprocket 80 (Fig. 33c).

2. Turn in screws 17, 19 and 25.

3. Pull the cleated belt upwards.

4. Push arm shaft 76 toward the left, through the cleated belt into its left bearing and needle bar crank 106.

5. Remove the end play in the arm shaft and tighten screw 164 in the needle bar crank.

6. Mount cleated belt 77 on upper belt sprocket 79.

7. Insert screw 165 in the upper belt sprocket 79 and tighten it.

8. Adjust the tensioning roller as instructed in Section 1.

9. Mount the cleated motor belt on the balance wheel.

10. Push pinion 22 onto the shaft and finger-tighten screw 21.

11. Adjust the position of the gears as instructed in Section 11.

12. On the PFAFF 1029 push the synchronizer on the shaft and fix it.

Adjusting the needle bar crank:

1. Push straight-stitch button 10.

2. Loosen screw 164 in needle bar crank 106 just sufficiently to allow the crank to be turned on the arm shaft.

3. Raise the needle bar and insert a needle.

4. Hold the needle bar crank fast with your left hand.

5. At the same time turn the balance wheel with your right hand until the feed dog is in its lowest position and the point of the sewing hook is centered between the tooth rows.

6. Hold the balance wheel steady and simultaneously turn needle bar crank 106 until the needle bar is at its lowest point.

7. Push the C clamp (870-137 00) onto the needle bar and tighten its screw just lightly (Fig. 33e).

8. Push the 2-mm-thick blade of the gauge (870-136 00) with its cutout onto the needle bar above the C clamp.

9. Push the C clamp together wit the 2-mm gauge up against the needle bar frame.

10. Tighten the knurled screw of the C-clamp.

11. Turn the balance wheel forwards and backwards a little.

12. If there is any play at the gauge, repeat the above procedure.

13. Remove the 2-mm blade.

14. Hold the balance wheel fast and turn the needle bar crank until the C clamp contacts the needle bar frame (Fig. 33e).

The point of the sewing hook should now be exactly oposite the center line of the needle (Fig. 33e).

15. If it is not, turn both the balance wheel and the needle bar crank until the hook point is exactly opposite the center line of the needle when the C clamp contacts the needle bar frame.

16. Remove the C clamp.

17. Tighten screw 164 in needle bar crank 106 so that the arm shaft has no play and the needle rise setting is correct.

18. To check the needle rise, again push the C clamp on the needle bar.

19. Adjust the needle vibration as instructed in Section 13.

20. Then replace free arm cover and base plate.

21. On 1029 machines also replace the four wire looms 73 (Fig. 33a).

22. The two wires 74,

23. the two foot control wires and secure them in position with the stress relief.

24. Fit the two wire looms 93 and 132 to the cover plate and replace the latter.

25. Replace accessory compartment and arm cover.

26. Then carry out the following adjustments:

24. Adjusting the bobbin thread tension

25. Adjusting the needle thread tension

26. Timing the thread check spring

27. Equalizing the stitch length for the right and left buttonhole seams

28. Equalizing the length of the forward/reverse-controlled utility stitches

30. Timing the synchronizer

31. Making a sewing sample

(Time required: 60 – 90 minutes)

Dismantling:

1. Remove needle, sewing foot shoe and needle plate.

2. Remove the top cover.

3. Remove the face cover.

4. Take out the two screws and remove the housing insert.

5. Take out the two screws 191 of the cover plate (Fig. 33f).

6. Take out the cover plate.

7. Take out the five screws of the machine base.

8. Remove the machine base.

9. Lift catches 170 I to 2 mm only and pull the four wire loom connectors out of the circuit board (Figs. 33g and 33h).

10. Taken out the four screws of the base plate.

11. Carefully turn the base plate over.

12. Compress the two catches 190 of the motor plug and take the motor plug out at the top (Fig. 33i).

13. Carefully pull the wire looms out of the base plate.

14. Lay the base plate aside.

15. Loosen screw 85 (Fig. 33j).

16. Dismantle synchronizer 84 (see Section 50a).

17. Take out the two screws of the free arm cover and remove the latter.

18. Loosen screw 164 in the needle bar crank (Fig. 33).

19. Loosen screw 1 of tensioning roller 2.

20. Take out screw 165.

21. Pull arm shaft 76 toward the right and at the same time pull off cleated (machine) belt 77 and cleated (motor) belt 78.

22. Take out screws 17, 19 and 25 of the automatic mechanism (Fig. 33c).

23. Loosen the two screws 21 and pull gear 22 off toward the right (Fig. 33).

24. Push the automatic mechanism forwards a little and pull cleated belt 77 out between the large gear 23 and the end of the shaft (Fig. 33c).

Reassembling:

1. Pull the new cleated belt 77 between large gear 23 and the end of the shaft and mount it on lower belt sprocket 80 (Fig. 33c).

2. Turn in screws 17, 19 and 25.

3. Pull the cleated belt upwards.

4. Mount cleated belt 77 on upper belt sprocket 79.

5. Push arm shaft 76 toward the left through the cleated belt into its left bearing and needle bar crank 106.

6. Remove the end play and finger-tighten screw 164 in the needle bar crank.

7. Insert screw 165 in the upper belt sprocket and tighten it.

8. Adjust the tensioning roller as instructed in Section 1.

9. Mount the cleated motor belt on the balance wheel.

10. Push pinion 22 onto its shaft and finger-tighten screw 21.

11. Adjust the position of the gears as instructed in Section 11.

12. On Model 1067 push the tachometer on the shaft and fix it (no adjustment).

13. On Model 1069 push the synchronizer on the shaft and fix it. (It will be timed later.)

Adjusting the needle bar crank:

1. Push straight-stitch button 10.

2. Loosen screw 164 in needle bar crank 106 just sufficiently to allow the crank to be turned on its shaft against resistance (Fig. 33).

3. Raise the needle bar and insert a needle.

4. Hold the needle bar crank fast with your left hand.

5. At the same time turn the balance wheel wit your right hand until the feed dog is in its lowest position and the point of the sewing hook is centered between the tooth rows.

6. Hold the balance wheel steady and simultaneously turn needle bar crank 106 until the needle bar is at its lowest point.

7. Push the C clamp (870-137 00) onto the needle bar and tighten its screw just lightly (Fig. 33e).

8. Push the 2-mm-thick blade of the gauge (870-136 00) with its cutout onto the needle bar above the C clamp.

9. Push the C clamp together with the 2-mm gauge up against the needle bar frame.

10. Finger-tighten the knurled screw of the C clamp.

11. Turn the balance wheel forwards and backwards a little.

12. If there is any play at the gauge, repeat the above procedure.

13. Remove the 2-mm blade.

14. Hold the balance wheel fast and turn the needle bar crank until the C clamp contacts the needle bar frame (Fig. 33e).

The point of the sewing hook should now be exactly opposite the center line of the needle (Fig. 33e).

15. If it is not, turn both the balance wheel and the needle bar crank until the hook point is exactly opposite the center line of the needle when the C clamp contacts the needle bar frame.

16. Remove the C clamp.

17. Tighten screw 164 in needle bar crank 106 so that the arm shaft has no play and the needle rise setting is correct.

18. To check the needle rise, again push the C clamp onto the needle bar.

19. Adjust the needle vibration as instructed in Section 13.

20. On Model 1069 time the synchronizer according to the instructions given in Section 30a.

21. Then replace free arm cover and base plate.

22. Also replace cover plate, housing insert and top cover.

23. Screw on the face cover.

24. Now connect all wire looms of the machine to the circuit boards as follows:

On Model 1067:

– The four-bush connector 180 into the four-pin receptacle (Fig. 33g).

– The five-bush connector 181 into the five-pin receptacle.

– The three-bush connector 182 into the three-pin receptacle.

– The two-bush connector 183 into the two-pin receptacle.

On Model 1069:

– The four-bush connector 171 into the four-pin receptacle (Fig. 33h).

– The five-bush connector 172 into the five-pin receptacle.

– The nine-bush connector 173 into the nine-pin receptacle.

– The two-bush connector 174 into the two-pin receptacle.

25. Place the wire looms into the recess of the base plate.

26. Secure the machine base in position with five screws.

Then carry out the following adjustments:

24. Adjusting the bobbin thread tension

25. Adjusting the needle thread tension

26. Timing the thread check spring

27a. Equalizing the stitch length for the right and left buttonhole seams

28. Equalizing the length of the forward/reverse controlled utility stitches

31. Making a sewing sample

27. Garry out an electrical safety test according to German VDE 0701 specifications or the safety regula tions applicable in the respective country, using a Metratester 2 or 3.

Time required: abt. 5 minutes

Dismantling:

1. Take out screw 107 (Fig. 34) and remove washer 108.

2. Pull out stop motion knob 110 and remove stop motion lever 111, clutch member 113 and pressure spring 114.

Reassembling:

1. Turn balance wheel 115 and clutch disc 116 until the square openings 117 are positioned at the bottom (Fig. 34a).

2. Place pressure spring 114 (Fig. 34b) on the balance wheel hub so that its rear side enters the guide groove.

3. Push clutch member 113 (Fig. 34c) over the hub of the balance wheel, then push it toward the rear. As you do this, the pressure spring will be positioned vertically and clutch member 113 will be positioned as shown in Fig. 34c.

4. Insert the pin of stop motion lever 111 (Fig. 34d) into the appropriate hole so that it is positioned as illustrated in Fig. 34d.

5. Insert stop motion knob 110 (Fig. 34e) into the balance wheel with its square mark 118 at the top.

6. As you do this, rotate the stop motion knob 110 back and forth by abt. 5 mm so that it can snap into position.

7. Hold the balance wheel fast as you turn stop motion knob 110 in the direction of balance wheel rotation until you hear it snap in place.

8. Engage and disengage the sewing mechanism to see whether the stop motion mechanism works properly.

(Time required: 5 to 10 minutes)

Dismantling:

1. Take out the needle.

2. Remove the presser foot.

3. Take out the bobbin case.

4. Remove the free-arm cover.

5. Remove the bobbin case position finger.

6. Remove the three screws with their springs from the back (Fig. 35).

7. Remove bobbin case base and hook gib (Fig. 35a).

8. Turn the hook gib to the right or left out of the bobbin case base (Fig. 35b).

9. Clean sewing hook, bobbin case and hook gib.

Re-assembling:

1. Turn the balance wheel until the opening of the sewing hook is facing left (Fig. 35c).

2. Turn the hook gib to the left into the bobbin case base (Fig. 35d).

3. Replace bobbin case base with hook gib in the sewing hook (Fig. 35e).

4. Secure the hook gib from the back with its three screws and springs (Fig. 35).

5. Replace the bobbin case position finger and adjust it, as instructed in Section 20.

6. Oil the sewing hook.

7. Replace or fit the remaining parts.

Note: These machines are equipped with sintered-metal bearings and parts and are thus practically maintenance-free.

The only part that should be oiled with sewing machine oil from time to time is the sewing hook.

After repair work the mechanic should oil the machine with BP Energol HLP 46 or HLP 80, and the sewing hook with sewing machine oil.

Sintered-metal bearings or parts must not be cleaned with petrol (gasoline), paraffin (kerosene), thinner, tri-chlorethylene or similar cleaning agents. Such parts must only be cleaned by brushing or similar mechanical methods. Following this, they are to be oiled with BP Energol HLP 46 or HLP 80.

Time required: 5 – 10 minutes.

Removing the motor:

1. Unplug the mains plug and the female plug.

2. Open the arm cover.

3. Turn on the master switch.

4. Turn out screw 109 almost completely (Fig. 37).

5. Remove the cover plate by pulling it forward.

6. Unplug sewing light plug 60 (Fig. 37a).

7. Take out screws 58 and 59 and remove the two washers.

8. Lift the motor sprocket out of the cleated belt and take the motor out at the front.

Refitting the motor:

1. Before the motor is refitted, measure the leakage current (Section 61 or 63).

2. Replace the motor and simultaneously mount the cleated belt on the motor sprocket.

3. Replace screws 58 and 59 together with their washers and turn them in. Tension the cleated belt correctly and tighten the two screws securely.

4. Insert sewing light plug 60.

5. Replace the cover plate.

6. Tighten screw 109.

7. Insert the mains plug and test-run the machine.

8. Carry out an electrical safety test according to the German VDE 0701 specifications or the safety regulations applicable in the respective country, using a Metratester 2 or 3.

(Time required [without dismantling the motor]: 5 -10 minutes)

Dismantling:

1. Begin by dismantling the motor (see Section 37).

2. The motor of the PFAFF 1029 is dismantled after Section 40.

3. Slightly lift the two retaining clips 125 and remove cover 124 (Fig. 38).

4. Take out the two slotted nuts 122.

5. Pull the motor apart and pull off end shield 123.

6. Bend the two brush retainers upwards and remove carbon brushes 121.

7. Clean the collector and the motor.

Reassembling:

1. Insert two new carbon brushes and bend the retainers back into place.

2. Replace end shield 123.

3. Screw on and tighten the two slotted nuts 122.

4. Push the cover 124 back into place at one end, then let it snap into place at the other.

5. Measure the leakage currents according to Section 61 or 63.

6. Replace the motor as instructed in Section 37.

7. Replace the motor of the PFAFF 1029 as instructed in Section 40.

8. Carry out an electrical safety test according to German VDE 0701 specifications or the safety regulations of the respective country using a Metratester 2 or 3 (see Section 60 or 62).

(eqipped with motors UUS 2104, UUS 2134, UUS 2114, UUS 2154 or UUS 2157)

Time required (without dismantling the motor): 10 – 15 minutes

Note: The capacitor and the switch are always replaced together with the circuit board.

Dismantling:

1. Dismantle the motor (see Section 37 for PFAFF 1025 and 1027 machines).

2. Dismantle the motor of the PFAFF 1029 according to Section 40.

3. Slightly lift the two retaining clips 125 and remove cover 124 (Fig. 39).

4. Unsolder the two wires at points 130.

5. Take out the three screws 127.

6. Take out circuit board 126.

Reassembling:

1. Solder the two wires to the new circuit board at points 130.

2. Insert circuit board 126.

3. Screw the three screws 127 into contact pins 129 and tighten them.

4. Push cover 124 back into place at one end, then let it snap into place at the other.

5. Measure the leakage currents according to Section 61 or 63.

6. Replace the motor.

7. Carry out an electrical safety test according to the prevailing regulations using the Metratester 2 or 3 (see Section 60 or 62).

(Time required: 30 to 40 minutes)

Dismantling:

1. Pull out the male and female plugs of the power cord.

2. Tilt the machine back.

3. Take out the five screws from the machine base.

4. Remove the machine base.

5. Pull off the two motor wires 74 (Fig. 40).

6. Pull off the two-pin connector 73.

7. Take the two disconnected wires out of the cable conduit.

8. Let the machine down again.

9. Open the arm cover.

10. Turn out screw 109 (Fig. 40a), inserting the screwdriver through the hole in the accessory compartment, until the cover plate can be pulled forward a little.

11. Turn on the master switch and pull the cover plate forward.

12. Push the two female plugs 93 and 132 of the operating panel circuit board toward the rear, using a screwdriver (Fig. 40b).

13. Operate the master switch and take out the cover plate.

14. Pull off and disconnect sewlight plug 60 (Fig. 40c).

15. Take out screws 58 and 59 together with their washers.

16. Lift the motor sprocket out of the cleated belt and strip the motor.

17. Carefully pull the motor cords 73a and 74 out of the machine.

Refitting:

1. Before you replace the motor, measure the leakage current (see Section 61 or 63 in the Service Manual).

2. It is recommended to screw on the base plate first, then to replace the motor.

3. Pull the motor cord 73 and 74 through the base plate from top to bottom.

4. Screw on the base plate with its four screws.

5. Carefully draw up the seven-wire loom 132 and place it in the cable conduit to the right (Fig. 40c).

6. Make sure it does not slip out of the conduit when you insert the motor.

7. Mount the cleated belt on its sprocket and insert the motor.

8. Secure the motor in position by tightening screws 58 and 59 just lightly.

9. Tension the cleated belt and firmly tighten screws 58 and 59.

10. Re-connect and fit sewlight plug 60.

11. Rest the machine on the arm cover.

12. Cautiously pull up the motor cord as far as possible.

13. Place the cord with two-pin connector 73 in the cable conduit and connect it (Fig. 40).

Important: As you do this, make sure the white wire faces toward foot control wires 72.

14. Push the motor cord terminals 74 onto the pins and place the cord in the correct position.

15. Replace the machine base and secure it in position with its five screws.

16. Tilt the machine back.

17. Push the two connections 93 and 132 onto the operating panel circuit board so that the white wires are at the right (Fig. 40b).

18. Turn on the master switch.

19. Replace the cover plate and secure it in position with screw 109 (Fig. 40a).

Check:

1. Insert the mains plug.

2. Make a check with the test computer.

3. Check all functions.

4. Make an electrical safety test according to German VDE 0701 specifications, using the Metratester 2 or 3.

Dismantling:

1. Pull out the male and female plugs of the power cord.

2. Remove the top cover.

3. Take out the screw and remove the face cover.

4. Take out the two screws of the housing insert

5. Remove the housing insert.

6. Take out the two screws 191 and remove the cover plate (Fig. 40d).

7. Tilt the machine back.

8. Take out the five screws from the machine base.

9. Remove the machine base.

10. Lift catches 170 I to 2 mm only and pull the four wire loom connectors out of the circuit board (Figs. 40e and f).

11. Take out the four screws of the base plate.

12. Carefully turn the base plate over.

13. Compress the two catches 190 of the motor plug and take the motor plug out at the top (Fig. 40g).

14. Lay the base plate aside.

15. Pull off and disconnect sewlight plug 60 (Fig. 40h).

16. Take out screws 58 and 59 together with their washers (Fig. 40h).

17. Lift the motor spocket out of the cleated belt and strip the motor.

Reassembling:

1. Before you replace the motor, measure the leakage current (see Section 63 in the Service Manual).

2. Replace the motor, pulling the cords through the base plate from top to bottom.

3. Mount the cleated belt on the sprocket.

4. Secure the motor in position by tightening screws 58 and 59 together with their washers just lightly (Fig. 40h).

5. Tension the cleated belt and firmly tighten screws 58 and 59.

6. Reconnect and replace sewlight plug 60.

7. Insert the four wire looms with their connectors through the base plate.

8. Replace the motor plug (Fig. 40g).

9. Secure the base plate in position with its four screws.

10. Now connect all wire looms of the machine to the circuit board as follows:

On Model 1067:

– The four-bush connector 180 into the four-pin receptacle (Fig. 40e).

– The five-bush connector 181 into the five-pin receptacle.

– The three-bush connector 182 into the three-pin receptacle.

– The two-bush connector 183 into the two-pin receptacle.

On Model 1069:

– The four-bush connector 171 into the four-pin receptacle (Fig. 40f).

– The five-bush connector 172 into the five-pin receptacle.

– The nine-bush connector 173 into the nine-pin receptacle.

– The two-bush connector 174 into the two-pin receptacle.

11. Place the cables into the recess of the base plate.

12. Secure the machine base in position with five screws.

13. Return the machine to its upright position.

14. Replace the cover plate and secure it in position with the two screws 191 (Fig. 40d).

15. Replace the housing insert and screw it down with its two screws.

16. Replace and screw down the face cover.

17. Replace the top cover.

Final check:

1. Fit the mains plug.

2. Check all functions.

3. Carry out an electrical safety test according to German VDE 0701 specifications or the safety regulations of the respective country, using a Metratester 2 or 3.

(Time required, without dismantling the motor: 20 – 25 minutes)

Note: The circuit board is always replaced as a unit.

Dismantling:

1. Dismantle the motor (see Section 40).

2. Slightly lift the two retaining clips 125 and remove cover 124.

3. Take out the two slotted nuts 122.

4. Pull the motor apart and pull off end shield 123.

5. Unsolder the four wires at points 130 (Fig. 41).

6. Lift the plastic guide of contact pins 131 by abt. 3 mm.

7. Lift circuit board 132 at the side of the master switch and lift it out.

Reassembling:

1. First insert the new circuit board 132 with the fuse casing and contact pins 131, then insert it at the side of the master switch.

2. Unsolder the four wires at points 130.

3. Replace end shield 123 and secure it in position by the two slotted nuts 122.

4. Push cover 124 back into place at one end, then let it snap into plate at the other.

5. Measure the leakage currents according to Section 61 or 63.

6. Replace the motor as instructed in Section 40.

7. Carry out an electrical safety test according to German VDE 0701 specifications or the safety regulations of the respective country, using a Metratester 2 or 3.

Time required: 10 – 15 minutes

Note: Only by changing the armature the sprocket has to be taken off.

Dismantling:

1. Dismantle the motor as instructed in Section 37.

2. For dismantling the motor of the PFAFF 1029 see Section 40.

3. Insert two screwdrivers of the same blade width between pinion 133 and the motor bearing (Fig. 42).

4. Turn the two screwdrivers in opposite directions, thus prizing pinion 133 off its shaft.

Note: The old pinion is not reusable.

Reassembling:

1. Support the armature shaft at the opposite end and push the new motor pinion onto it.

2. Before replacing the motor, measure the leakage currents (see Section 61 or 63).

3. Cement flanged disc 134 onto the pinion.

4. Replace the motor (see Section 37 or 40).

5. Carry out an electrical safety test according to the prevailing regulations using the Metratester 2 or 3.

(Time required: 10 – 15 minutes)

Dismantling:

1. Unplug the machine.

2. Turn screw 109 out almost completely (Fig. 43).

3. Switch on the master switch.

4. Pull the cover plate forward.

5. On PFAFF 1029 machines pull out plugs 93 and 132 (Fig. 43b).

6. Pull the cover plate out to the front.

7. Take out screws 58 and 59 on the motor.

8. Disengage the sewing mechanism by means of the stop motion knob.

9. Take out balance wheel screw 134.

10. Take off the complete balance wheel.

11. Remove cleated belt 135.

Reassembling:

1. Insert the new cleated belt 135 and push it up sufficiently to allow the balance wheel to be refitted.

2. Replace the balance wheel and mount the cleated belt on the balance wheel sprocket.

3. Turn in balance wheel screw 134, but tighten it only moderately.

4. Mount the cleated belt on motor sprocket.

5. Secure the motor in position with screws 58 and 59, at the same time adjusting the belt tension.

6. Replace the cover plate and, on PFAFF 1Q29 machines, fit plugs 93 and 132 (Figs. 43a and 43b).

7. Secure the cover plate in position with screw 109.

8. Carry out an electrical safety test according to German VDE 0701 specifications or the safety regulations of the respective country, using a Metratester 2 or 3.

(Time required: 10 to 15 minutes)

Dismantling:

1. Unplug the machine.

2. Sewing open and remove the top cover.

3. Unscrew the face cover.

4. Take out the two housing insert screws.

5. Remove the housing insert.

6. Take out the two screws 191 of the cover plate (Fig. 43c).

7. Remove the cover plate.

8. Take out screws 58 and 59 on the motor (Fig. 43d).

9. Disengage the sewing mechanism by means of the stop motion knob.

10. Take out balance wheel screw 134 (Fig. 43e).

11. Take off the complete balance wheel.

12. Remove the cleated belt.

Reassembling:

1. Insert the new cleated belt 135 and push it up sufficiently to allow the balance wheel to be refitted.

2. Replace the balance wheel and mount the cleated belt on the balance wheel sprocket.

3. Turn in balance wheel screw 134, but tighten it only moderately.

4. Mount the cleated belt on motor sprocket 133 (Fig. 43d).

5. Secure the motor in position wit screws 58 and 59, at the same time adjusting the belt tension.

6. Replace the cover plate.

7. Secure the cover plate in position with the two screws 191.

8. Replace the housing insert and screw it down with its two screws.

9. Replace the face cover.

10. Replace the top cover.

11. Carry out an electrical safety test according to German VDE 0701 specifications or the safety regulations of the respective country, using a Metratester 2 or 3.

(Time required: 5 to 10 minutes)

Dismantling:

1. Take out the four screws 173 and remove the four rubber pads 174 with the washers 175 (Fig. 44).

2. Remove the base plate 176.

3. Remove the contact plate 177 from the rheostat.

4. Take out the two screws 178 and remove the deflector plate 179.

5. Take out the rheostat 180.

Reassembling:

1. Insert the new rheostat 180.

2. Fit the deflector plate 179.

3. Insert and tighten the two screws 178.

4. Push the contact plate 177 into the retainer of the rheostat 180.

Intermediate check and adjustment:

1. Operate the foot control.

2. Check that the roller 181 properly contacts the upper contact 183 and lower contact 182 of the rheostat. In its final position the roller 181 must be exactly in its cutout.

3. To adjust the roller 181 turn the 2.5 mm alien screw 193 in or out a little.

4. Fit the base plate.

5. Fit the four rubber pads with washers.

6. Insert and tighten the four retaining screws.

7. Carry out an electrical safety test according to VDE 0701 with the Metratester 2 or 3.

(Time required: 5 to 10 minutes)

Dismantling:

1. Take out the four screws 173 and remove the four rubber pads 174 with the washers 175 (Fig. 45).

2. Remove the base plate 176.

3. Pull out the contact spring 191.

4. Take out the screw 184.

5. Remove the complete roller bracket.

Reassembling:

1. Push the roller bracket stud 192 under the tongue of the contact plate 189.

2. Then position the roller bracket 190 so that its fork encloses the head of the regulating screw 193.

3. Insert the screw 184 and tighten it.

4. Apply the grease from the old roller bracket to the contact spring 191 and insert the latter in the roller bracket 190.

Final check:

1. Operate the foot control.

2. Check that the roller 181 properly contacts the upper contact 183 and lower contact 182 of the rheostat.

In its final position the roller 181 must be exactly in its cutout.

3. To adjust the roller 181 turn the 2.5 mm alien screw 193 in or out a little.

4. Fit the base plate.

5. Fit the four rubber pads with washers.

6. Insert and tighten the four retaining screws.

7. Carry out an electrical safety test according to VDE 0701 with the Metratester 2 or 3.

(Time required: 5 to 10 minutes)

Note: The leads must only be replaced by original PFAFF leads, because only these are approved.

Dismantling:

1. Take out the four screws 173 and remove the four rubber pads 174 with washers 175 (see Fig. 46).

2. Take off the base plate 176.

3. Loosen the screw 185 by about 3 turns.

4. Loosen the two screws 188.

5. Pull out the lead 187.

Reassembling:

1. Insert the new lead 187 through the hole and the stress relief 186.

2. Secure the ends of the leads wit the two screws 188 each only.

3. Tighten the screw 185 of the stress relief.

4. Fit the base plate.

5. Fit the four rubber pads with the washers.

6. Insert and tighten the four retaining screws.

7. Carry out an electrical safety test according to VDE 0701 with the Metratester 2 or 3.

Time required: 15 – 20 minutes

Dismantling the foot control:

1. Unplug the power cord at both ends.

2. Tilt the machine over so that it rests on its back.

3. Take out the five screws from the machine base.

4. Remove the machine base.

5. Take out the screw 136 of stress relief clip 137 and remove the clip (Fig. 47).

6. Disconnect both wires 72 of the foot control and take them out of the cable conduit and the clips.

7. Take out the foot control.

Removing the cord reel:

1. Lift rubber strip 138 and pull it out together with its three feet (Fig. 47a).

2. Pull out the two plugs 139.

3. Take out the four cross-slot screws 140 together with their spring washers.

4. Remove housing cover 141.

5. Remove pedal 142 together with guiding wire 143 and contact spring 144.

6. Pull off the right-hand pressure spring 145.

7. Pull off the right-hand wire 147 together with its contact ring.

8. Push up the cemented-in resistor plate 148 (20 KO potentiometer) with a screwdriver or a pliers and pull it out.

9. Take out the three cross-slot screws 149 and the three spring washers.

10. Remove cord reel 150.

Replacing the cord reel:

1. Pull about 10 cm of cord from the reel and replace cord reel 150 in its housing.

2. Secure cord reel 150 in position with the three cross-slot screws 149 and their spring washers.

3. Push resistor plate 148 (20 KO potentiometer) down into its guide groove as far as it will go and secure it in position with some cement.

4. Push the soldered-on contact ring 147 onto the right-hand guide pin.

5. Place both wires into their appropriate guide grooves.

6. Insert contact spring 144 over the guide pin in the larger right-hand compartment of pedal 142.

7. Push pressure spring 145 over the same guide pin.

8. Turn pedal 142 over and push the right-hand spring 145 over the right-hand guide pin of the housing and the left-hand spring 146 over the guide pin in pedal 142.

9. Push the pedal slightly toward the right and then downwards until contact spring 144 is located at the right-hand side of resistor plate 148 and cannot bend.

10. Push the pedal further down as far as it will go and, while doing so, insert the guiding wire 143 into its two open seats.

11. Hold pedal 142 in this position, simultaneously insert housing cover 141 and compress it together with the housing.

12. Insert the four cross-slot screws 140 together with their spring washers and tighten them securely.

13. Replace the rubber strip arid the two plugs.

Replacing the foot control:

1. Reconnect the two wires 72 (Fig. 47).

2. Place them under the clips and insert them in the cable conduit.

3. Replace stress relief clip 137 and secure it in position with its screw.

4. Insert the foot control.

5. Replace the machine base and secure it in position with its five screws.

6. Make an electrical safety test according to the prevailing regulations using the Metratester 2 or 3.

(Time required: 15 to 20 minutes)

Dismantling:

1. Take out the four screws and remove the four rubber pads with their washers (Fig. 47b).

2. Remove the base plate.

3. Take out slide 194.

4. Disconnect the three wires 198 of the machine plug.

5. Loosen the two screws 200 and pull out the two wires 199 of the mains plug.

6. Take out the two screws 195.

7. Take out printed circuit board 193 and pull out printed conductor 197 (potentiometer) with a pliers.

Reassembling:

1. Fully compress the foot control and hold it in this position while replacing the printed concuctor.

2. Replace the printed circuit board.

3. Lift prong 196 and at the same time push in printed conductor 197 (potentiometer) until it enters its guide at the bottom (Fig. 47b).

4. Release the compressed foot control.

5. Insert the two screws 195, but do not tighten them.

6. Replace slide 194.

7. Position the printed circuit board so that the switch has contact at both end positions when it is operated by slide 199.

8. Tighten the two screws 195.

9. Insert the two wires 199 of the mains plug into the lustre terminal and screw down.

10. Reconnect the three wires 198 of the machine cord in the foot control according to the wiring diagram.

11. Replace the base plate so that the model plate is positioned at the cable exit.

12. Replace the four screws with rubber pads and washers and tighten them.

Final check:

1. Connect the foot control to the machine and check to make sure it works properly at both positions of the slide.

2. Carry out an electrical safety test according to German VDE 0701 specifications or the safety regulations of the respective country, using a Metratester 2 or 3.

(Time required: 10 to 15 minutes)

Note: The circuit board must always be replaced as a unit.

Dismantling:

1. Disconnect the power cord completely (male and female plugs).

2. Take out the five screws of the machine base.

3. Remove the machine base.

4. Take out the four star-head screws (Fig. 48).

5. Slightly lift the circuit board 151 and turn it towards the right.

6. Pull off wires 72 and 74 with their terminals (Fig. 48a).

7. Pull off the four looms 73 with connector.

8. Remove the circuit board.

Refitting:

1. Connect the new circuit board 151 as follows (Fig. 48a).

2. Push on both terminals 74.

3. Push on both terminals 72.

4. Push on the four-pin, five-pin, seven-pin and two-pin connectors so that the white wire faces toward foot control wires 72.

5. Turn the circuit board toward the left and insert it in the base plate.

6. Fit wires 72 and 74 properly in their conduits.

7. Secure the circuit board in place with its four star-head screws.

8. Replace the machine base and screw it down with five screws.

Check:

1. Insert the mains plug.

2. Make a check with the test computer and set the speed at 152.

3. Check all functions.

4. Make an electrical safety test according to German VDE 0701 specifications, using the Metratester 2 or 3.

(Time required: 10 to 15 minutes)

Note: The circuit board must always be replaced as a unit.

Dismantling:

1. Disconnect the power cord completely (male and female plugs).

2. Take out the five screws of the machine base.

3. Lift catches 170 1 to 2 mm only and pull the four wire loom connectors out of the circuit board (Figs. 48b and c).

4. Take out the four star-head screws 192.

5. Carefully pull the printed circuit board downwards.

6. Compress the two catches of the motor plug and take the motor plug out at the top (Fig. 48e).

7. Remove the printed circuit board.

Reassembling:

1. Push the motor plug into the motor socket, making sure that both catches snap in position (Fig. 48e).

2. Replace the circuit board and secure it in position with its four screws, making sure a spacing sleeve is placed on the left bottom screw.

3. Now connect all wire looms of the machine to the circuit board as follows:

On Model 1067:

– The four-bush connector 180 into the four-pin receptacle (Fig. 48b).

– The five-bush connector 181 into the five-pin receptacle.

– The three-bush connector 182 into the three-pin receptacle.

– The two-bush connector 183 into the two-pin receptacle.

On Model 1069:

– The four-bush connector 171 into the four-pin receptacle (Fig. 48c).

– The five-bush connector 172 into the five-pin receptacle.

– The nine-bush connector 173 into the nine-pin receptacle.

– The two-bush connector 174 into two-pin receptacle.

4. Place the cables into the recess of the base plate.

5. Secure the machine base in position with its five screws.

Final check:

1. Insert the mains plug.

2. Check all functions.

3. Carry out an electrical safety test according to German VDE 0701 specifications or the safety regulations of the respective country, using a Metratester 2 or 3.

(Time required: 10 to 15 minutes)

Note: The free arm cover with bobbin thread monitor must always be replaced as a unit.

Dismantling:

1. Disconnect the power cord completely (male and female plugs).

2. Take out the five screws from the machine base.

3. Remove the machine base.

4. Pull out the four-pin connector 73 (Fig. 49).

5. Take out the four screws from the base plate.

6. Tilt the machine back and the base plate forward.

7. Pull the four bush connector out through the opening in the base plate.

8. Take out the two screws 153 of the free arm cover (Fig. 49a).

9. Remove the free arm cover 154.

Reassembling:

1. Screw on the new free arm cover 154 with two screws.

2. Insert the four-bush connector 73 through the opening of the base plate from above and pull it out at the bottom as much as possible.

3. Screw on the base plate with four screws.

4. Fit four-bush connector 73 so that the wire faces toward foot control cord 72.

5. Accommodate the cable loop within the base plate.

6. Replace the machine base and screw it on with five screws.

Final check:

1. Insert the mains plug.

2. Make a check with the test computer.

3. Check the functioning of the thread monitor with a full and an empty bobbin.

4. Carry out an electrical safety test according to German VDE 0701 specifications or the safety regulations of the respective country, using a Metratester 2 or 3.

(Time required: 10 to 15 minutes)

Note: The free arm cover with bobbin thread monitor must always be replaced as a unit.

Dismantling:

1. Disconnect the power cord completely (male and female plugs)

2. Take out the five screws from the machine base.

3. Remove the machine base.

4. Lift catch 170 1 to 2 mm only.

5. Pull the five-bush connector 172 out of pin receptacle 176 of the circuit board (Fig. 49b).

6. Tilt the machine back.

7. Take out the four screws from the base plate.

8. Tilt the base plate forward.

9. Pull the four-bush connector out through the opening in the base plate.

10. Take out the two screws 153 of the free arm cover (Fig. 49a).

11. Remove the free arm cover.

Reassembling:

1. Screw on the new free arm cover 154 with two screws.

2. Insert the four-bush connector through the opening of the base plate from above and pull it out at the bottom as much as possible.

3. Screw on the base plate with four screws.

4. Push five-bush connector 172 into the five-pin receptacle (Fig. 49b).

5. Accommodate the cable loop within the base plate.

6. Replace the machine base and screw it on with five screws.

Final check:

1. Insert the main plug.

2. Check the working of the thread monitor with a full and an empty bobbin.

3. Carry out an electrical safety test according to German VDE 0701 specifications or the safety regulations of the respective country, using a Metratester 2 or 3.

(Time required: 15 to 20 minutes)

Dismantling:

1. Unplug the sewing machine.

2. Tilt the machine back.

3. Take out the five screws from the machine base and remove the latter.

4. Pull the foot control cord out 30 to 40 cm and place the foot control to the right.

5. Take out the screw 136 of the stress relief clip 137 of the foot control cord (Fig. 50).

6. Take the foot control cord out of the cable conduit and pull off the two terminals 72.

7. Pull out the four-wire, five-wire, seven-wire and two-wire female plugs 73.

8. Disconnect the two motor wires with terminal 74 and take them out of the cable conduit.

9. Take the looms out of the cable conduit.

10. Take out the four screws of the base plate.

11. Remove the base plate and take the wires out at the top.

12. Lay the base plate aside.

13. Loosen screw 83 in the collar of synchronizer 84 (Fig. 50a).

14. Turn the balance wheel until the needle bar is at its highest point.

15. Push synchronizer 84 toward the right until it contacts the cam stack.

16. Continue turning the balance wheel forward and simultaneous remove the synchronizer.

Reassembling:

1. Replace synchronizer 84, making sure the fin of the housing is positioned between both guide clamps 155.

2. Remove sewing foot and needle plate.

3. Open the free arm cover and remove the bobbin case.

4. Place the foot control under the machine arm.

5. Insert a new needle system 130/705 H No. 80.

6. Disengage the utility-stitch mechanism (left needle position).

7. Time the synchronizer, as instructed in Section 30.

8. Pull the synchronizer plug (five-bush connector 73) out of the test plug.

9. Pull the wires through the opening in the base plate.

10. Screw on the base plate with its four screws.

11. Rest the machine on the arm cover.

12. Place the looms in the cable conduit and connect them in the following sequence (Fig. 50):

– 1st loom with five-pin connector

– 2nd loom with seven-pin connector

– 3rd loom with two-pin connector

13. Connect the two motor wires 74 to the terminals.

14. Place motor wires 74 in the cable conduit.

15. Place foot control cord 72 in the cable conduit and connect it, then screw on the stress relief clip.

16. Replace the machine base and screw it on with five screws.

(Time required: 15 to 20 minutes)

Dismantling:

1. Unplug the sewing machine.

2. Tilt the machine back.

3. Take out the five screws from the machine base.

4. Remove the machine base.

5. Lift catches 170 1 to 2 mm only and pull off the four cable looms with their connectors (Fig. 50b).

6. Take out the four screws of the base plate.

7. Carefully turn the base plate over.

8. Compress the two latches of the motor plug and take the motor plug out at the top (Fig. 50c).

9. Remove the base plate and take out the wires.

10. Lay the base plate aside.

11. Loosen screw 83 in the collar of synchronizer 84 (Fig. 50d).

12. Turn the balance wheel until the needle bar is at its highest point.

13. Push synchronizer 84 toward the right until it contacts the cam stack.

14. Continue turning the balance wheel forward and simultaneously remove the synchronizer.

Reassembling:

1. Replace synchronizer 84, making sure the fin of the housing is positioned between both guide clamps 155 (Fig. 50d).

2. Turn the balance wheel until the synchronizer can be pushed all the way to the left against the pinion.

3. Remove sewing foot shoe and needle plate.

4. Open the free arm cover and take out the bobbin case.

5. Insert a new needle, System 130/705 H, No. 80.

6. Disengage the utility-stitch meachnism (left needle position).

7. Time the synchronizer as instructed in Section 30 a.

8. Pull five-bush connector 172 out of text box “D”.

9. Pull the wires through the opening in the base plate.

10. Replace the motor plug in the motor socket (Fig. 50c).

11. Screw on the base plate with its four screws.

12. Now connect all wire looms of the machine to the circuit board as follows:

– The four-bush connector 171 into the four-pin receptacle (Fig. 50b).

– The five-bush connector 172 into the five-pin receptacle.

– The nine-bush connector 173 into the nine-pin receptacle.

– The two-bush connector 174 into the two-pin receptacle.

13. Place the cables into the recess of the base plate.

14. Secure the machine base in position with its five screws.

15. Carry out an electrical safety test according to German VDE 0701 specifications or the safety regulations of the respective country, using a Metratester 2 or 3.

(Time required: 10 to 15 minutes)

Note: The operating panel circuit board must always be replaced as a unit.

Dismantling:

1. Disconnect the power cord completely (male and female plugs).

2. Open the arm cover.

3. Turn out screw 109 almost completely, inserting the screwdriver through the hole in the accessory compartment (Fig. 19).

4. Turn on the master switch and pull the cover plate slightly forward.

5. Push the two female plugs 93 and 132 out toward the rear, using a screwdriver (Fig. 51a).

6. Take the cover plate out at the front.

7. Take out the two screws 155 of circuit board 156.

8. After releasing the lock pull off the slide 157.

9. Remove circuit board 156.

Refitting:

1. Place the new operating panel circuit board 156 on the cover plate and secure it in place with the two screws 155.

2. Insert slide 157 from the front.

3. Slip on the two female plugs with the white wire facing toward the right (Fig. 51a).

4. Turn on the master switch.

5. Replace the cover plate and secure it in place with screw 109.

Check:

1. Insert the mains plug.

2. Make a check with the test computer.

3. Check all functions.

4. Make an electrical safety test according to German VDE 0701 specifications, using the Metratester 2 or 3.

(Time required: 10 to 15 minutes)

Note: The operating panel circuit board must always be replaced as a unit.

Dismantling:

1. Remove the top cover.

2. Loosen the face cover screws.

3. Remove the face cover.

4. Take out the two screws of the housing insert.

5. Remove the housing insert.

6. Take out the star-head screw 175 (Fig. 51b).

7. On the PFAFF 1067 pull off four-bush connector 176 (Fig. 51c).

8. On the PFAFF 1069 pull off nine-bush connector 177 (Fig. 51d).

9. Remove the operating panel by pulling it downwards.

10. If the connecting cord is defective, dismantle the motor as instructed in Section 40a of this Manual.

Reassembling:

1. Replace the complete operating panel.

2. Secure the operating panel in position with stra-head screw 175.

3. Replace four-bush connector 176 or nine-bush connector 177 with the white wire facing left (Figs. 51c or d).

4. Replace the housing insert and secure it in position with the two screws.

5. Replace the face cover.

6. Replace the top cover.

Final check:

1. Insert the mains plug.

2. Check all functions.

3. Carry out an electrical safety test according to German VDE 0701 specifications or the safety regulations of the respective country, using a Metratester 2 or 3.

(Time required: 5 to 10 minutes)

Dismantling:

1. Disconnect the power cord completely (male and female plugs).

2. Open and dismantle the arm cover.

3. Take out the four star-head screws from the accessory compartment.

4. Remove the accessory compartment.

5. Turn out screw 109 far enough to permit the cover plate to be pulled forward (Fig. 52).

6. Push the two female plugs 93 and 132 out toward the rear, using a screwdriver (Fig. 52b).

7. Turn on the master switch and at the same time take the cover plate out at the front.

8. Push the micro switch (bobbin winder switch) toward the right at the top and toward the left at the bottom (by the hook). This causes the micro switch to be released (Fig. 52a).

9. Take the micro switch out at the top.

Refitting:

1. Insert the new micro switch and push it toward the bottom right until it snaps in place (Fig. 52a).

2. Push the two female plugs onto the operating panel circuit board (Fig. 52b).

3. Turn on the master switch.

4. Insert the cover plate and secure it in position with screw 109 (Fig. 52).

5. Replace the accessory compartment and secure it in position by its four screws.

6. Replace the arm cover.

Check:

1. Connect the power cord to the machine and the mains.

2. Make a check with the test computer.

3. Check all functions.

4. Make an electrical safety test according to German VDE 0701 specifications, using the Metratester 2 or 3.

(Time required: 5 to 10 minutes)

Dismantling:

1. Disconnect the power cord completely (make and female plugs).

2. Open and dismantle the top cover.

3. Unscrew the face cover.

4. Take out the two screws of the housing insert.

5. Remove the housing insert.

6. Dismantle the motor as instructed in Section 40a of this Manual.

7. Take out the two screws 178 of the bobbin winder switch bracket (Fig. 52c).

8. Remove the complete bobbin winder switch 184.

Reassembling:

1. Bobbin winder 185 should be positioned at the right (engaged).

2. Replace the complete bobbin winder switch 184.

3. Secure the bobbin winder switch in position with its two screws 178 and adjust it so that it switches on and off.

4. Place four-wire cord 176 into the conduit of the bobbin winder switch.

5. Lay the four-wire cord and the two-wire winder switch cord 186 into the cord duct below.

6. Replace the motor as instructed in Section 40a of this Manual.

7. Replace the housing insert and secure it in place with its two screws.

8. The bobbin winder switch must now switch on and off.

9. Replace the face cover.

10. Replace the top cover.

Final check:

1. Insert the mains plug.

2. Check all functions.

3. Carry out an electrical safety test according to German VDE 0701 specifications or the safety regulations of the respective country, using a Metratester 2 or 3.

1. Take out the 5 screws from the machine base and remove the base.

Disconnect the two wires 72 of the foot control (Fig. 54).

2. Pull out female connectors 73 with the four looms.

3. Plug extra-wide plug 161 into receptacle 158 of test plug 159 (arrow on arrow), and lock both locking levers 160 in position (Fig. 54a).

Leave plug 161 inserted in test plug 159 throughout the entire test.

4. Connect the two foot control wires to test plug 159 (Fig. 54a).

5. Push test plug 159 onto the connector pins of the 4 looms on the circuit board (Fig. 54a).

6. Connect the two wires 162 of the test plug to the two pins provided on the circuit board for connecting the foot control.

7. Push the 4 female connectors 73 onto the pins of the test plug in the following order from top to bottom: plug with 2 wires, 7 wires, 5 wires and 4 wires.

Important: The white wire must always face toward foot control wires 72.

8. Plug the second extra-wide plug 83 (arrow on arrow into receptacle 98 on the back of the test computer and lock the locking levers in position (Fig. 54b).

9. Connect cord 89 both to the test computer and the sewing machine (Figs. 54b and 54c).

10. Remove the needle from the sewing machine.

11. Take out the light bulb.

12. Connect machine power cord 80 to the test computer and plug it into the wall socket (Fig. 54c).

13. Switch on the master switch.

Step No.	Computer read-out	Computer operation	Sewing machine operation	Remarks	Computer read-out	Tachometer read-out
1	8	Touch start button.			8 (and the 7 fault lamps must flash.)	One of the three tacho-meter lamps must light up.
2	8		1. Disengage bobbin winder (Fig. 55) 2. Set operating panel slide at “-” stop (Fig. 55a). 3. Insert bobbin case with full bobbin (Fig. 55b). 4. Close free arm cover. 5. Engage sewing mechanism.	For all steps marked * the test button must be pressed if no new read-out appears after two seconds, even though the sewing machine has been operated correctly.	8 (and the 7 fault lamps must flash.)	One of the three tacho-meter lamps must light up.
3	8	Touch test button.			A	One of the three tacho-meter lamps must light up.
4	A		Engage bobbin winder (Fig 55).	*	0 or 1	One of the three tacho-meter lamps must light up.
5	0		Disengage bobbin winder (Fig. 55).	*	1	One of the three tacho-meter lamps must light up.
6	1		Press operating panel button for one second (Fig. 55a). Arrow up/down/left	*	2 or 5	One of the three tacho-meter lamps must light up.
7	2		Press stitch-by-stitch button on operating panel for one second (Fig 55a). Circle square II	*	3 (Touch test button only if 3 appears)	One of the three tacho-meter lamps must light up.
8	4		Slowly move operating panel slide from “-” to “+” stop (Fig. 55a).	*	5	One of the three tacho-meter lamps must light up.
9	5		Slowly depress foot control pedal as far as it will go, then release it very slowly.	*	6	One of the three tacho-meter lamps must light up.
10	6		Turn balance wheel at least two complete turns.	*	7 or 8	One of the three tacho-meter lamps must light up.
11	7		1. Insert bobbin case containing gauging cylinder (instead of bobbin). 2. Close free arm cover (Fig. 55b). 3. Turn balance wheel one turn.	*	8	One of the three tacho-meter lamps must light up.
12	8	Touch test button.		Important: Sewing machine will run at higher speed for a few seconds.	= or F	One of the three tacho-meter lamps must light up.
13	≡ (horizontal lines)	Press test button and hold it in until adjustment has been completed.	Speed too low, turn potentiometer D clockwise very slightly (Fig. 55e).		+ O – (below each other)	In case of danger, release test button. Repeat test.
			Speed too high, turn potentiometer D counter-clockwise very slightly (Fig. 55e).		+ O – (below each other)
			Speed correct, remove screwdriver.	Having removed the screwdriver, wait four seconds before you release the test button.	+ O – (below each other)
14	9	Press test button and do not release it.		Sewing machine runs briefly, then stops.	E or F	In case of danger, release test button. Repeat test.
15	E or F	Release test button.			E or F	The symbols of the defective components light up. When letter F appears, not all symbols of defective components light up. Having replaced the defective components, repeat the test and replace further defective components.

1. Pull out the mains plug.

2. Having completed the computer test, pull the 4 looms 73 out of test plug 159 (Fig. 56).

3. Disconnect both foot control wires 72 from the test plug.

4. Pull the two female connectors 162 from the circuit board.

5. Pull test plug 159 complete with flat wire loom, from the circuit board.

6. Connect all machine wire connectors to the circuit board (Fig. 56a).

Important: Make sure that the white wire of the plastic connector faces toward foot control wires 72 (Fig. 56a).

7. Place the 4 looms 73 in the cable conduit.

8. Replace the base and secure it in place with the five screws.

Fault indicated	1st component to be replaced	2nd component to be replaced	3rd component to be replaced	4th component to be replaced
Bobbin winder switch	Bobbin winder switch	Operating panel	7-wire loom
Operating panel	Operating panel	7-wire loom
Foot control	Foot control
Synchronizer	Synchronizer
Thread monitor	Clean vicinity of sewing hook and reflecting surface on hook	Free arm cover
Motor	Is sewing lamp still in machine?	* Machine or motor too cold: Let the machine run for two minutes	Machine turns too slowly or too freely (correct: 14-13 Ncm)	Motor
Circuit board	Step 13 not carried out correctly.	Circuit board
Motor + circuit board	Fuse FF2A Master switch turned off	Motor	Circuit board	Motor + circuit board

* Machine turns too slowly or too freely (Correct: 14-13 Ncm) If the machine is too cold and thus does not turn freely, you can run it warm as follows:
– Push the test computer foot control cord onto the pins 79 of the test computer (Fig. 54b).
– Operate the foot control of the test computer.
Note: The machine now runs without torque boost.

Connecting the plug:

1. Push shorting plug 163 onto extra-wide plug 161 (Fig. 58)

2. Take out the five screws from the machine base of a faultless PFAFF 1029 and remove the machine base.

3. Pull off the two foot control wires (Fig. 58a).

4. Pull off the four looms with connectors 73.

5. Push the two foot control wires 72 onto test plug 159 (Fig. 58b).

6. Push test plug 159 onto the connecting pins of the four looms at circuit board.

7. Connect the two wires 162 of the test plug to the two pins for the foot control connection on the circuit board.

8. Push the four connectors 73 onto the pins of the test plug, the sequence from top to bottom being: two-wire plug, seven-wire plug, five-wire plug and four-wire plug.

Important: The white wire must always be at the top.

9. Plug the power cord into the machine and the mains socket.

Check:

1. Check all functions. If one or more functions fail, either the test plug or the flat wire loom or both are defective and must be replaced.

2. Pull out the mains plug.

3. After the check, disconnect all wires and connect them again as shown in Fig. 58a.

4. Check all functions.

5. Make an electrical safety test according to German VDE 0701 specifications, using the Metratester 2 or 3.