MONTGOMERY WARD SIGNATURE UHT-285B (01) PDF MANUAL

The three models are basically the same mechanically. The original model URR-285A was beige in color. The UHT-285B model indicates a change in color from beige to champagne. The change from URR to UHT in the model prefix letters was made to indicate a change in the importing procedures. The UHT-285C model is champagne in color and incorporates the addition of a plastic shuttle cleaner and the method of adjusting the buttonhole stitching was changed and simplified.

The sewing head is packed separately from the portable case or cabinet to prevent damage during shipping. Unpack the portable case or cabinet first, remove the packing from the sewing head carton and lift out the head. Unwrap the speed control and accessories box.

Place the sewing head on top of the case or cabinet with the bottom of the head toward the front. There are two hinge-pin holes in the rear edge of the sewing head bed plate, and two corresponding hinge pins at the rear of the case or cabinet. Tip the hinge pins up so they may be inserted into the head. Pick up the sewing head and lower it over the hinge pins, and when in place, tighten the hinge-pin set screws securely. Lower the head to its normal operating position and, if in a portable case, turn the catch at the right end to lock the head into position.

Connect the two electrical plugs to the socket in the base of the portable case, or on the inside right hand panel of the cabinet on the console models. The two sockets are identified “MOTOR” and “LIGHT”. The long cord coming from the motor and light socket should be connected to the house wall outlet.

Proper lubrication is very important for a free running machine. The most important rule is DO NOT OVER-OIL. Over-oiling in the area of the stitch and thread assemblies may cause oil damage to expensive fabrics. Always use Fine Sewing Oil (W1409).

When in continuous use, the machines should be oiled daily. For moderate use, semi-annual lubrication is satisfactory. If the machine has not been used for several months it should be oiled before using, because the fine oil used will evaporate.

Use a small paint brush to remove lint and dust from the oil points. To reach these points beneath the bed plate, tip the head back and let it rest on the hinge pins. Apply oil to all the moving parts. ONE DROP IS SUFFICIENT ON EACH OIL POINT. Wipe away excess oil with a clean cloth. Lower head to normal operating position. Refer to the owner’s guide for specific oiling points.

To reach the parts inside the top arm and face plate, open the hinged face plate and remove, or lift, the top covers. Apply oil to the moving parts and oil holes.

Lubricating the shuttle race assembly is one of the most important points of machine maintenance. To oil the race, raise the hinged needle plate and remove the bobbin case by grasping the bobbin latch and pulling out. Rotate the two shuttle race cover latches and remove cover. Clean the race assembly and add one drop of oil to the race well. Be especially careful not to over-oil in this area.

The motor is permanently lubricated at the factory. DO NOT OIL MOTOR.

A properly adjusted belt can be pinched together at the motor pulley. To adjust tension, loosen the motor bracket screw and slide the motor up or down to achieve proper tensions. To align the belt, loosen the motor pulley set screw and slide the pulley in or out to correct position.

1. Remove the screw from the Stop Motion Knob on the handwheel and unscrew the knob.

2. Remove the handwheel.

3. Guide the new belt into the opening in the head while replacing the handwheel.

4. Run the belt over the motor pulley and replace the handwheel lock-washer with the prongs out.

5. Replace the stop motion knob and the knob screw.

6. Check to make sure the head mechanism can be released by turning the stop motion knob. If the mechanism continues to be driven, remove the knob and reposition the washer 180°. Check again.

The sewing light assembly is mounted inside the face plate cover. The bulb may be changed by swinging the cover open to expose the assembly. Unscrew the old bulb and replace it with a 6 watt 115/125 volt bulb.

Thread tension is automatic and rarely requires adjustment even when sewing material of different thicknesses. The needle and bobbin threads should be locked in the center of the material thickness.

To regulate needle thread (top) tension, lower the presser bar and turn the tension regulator knob clockwise to increase, or counterclockwise to decrease tension.

In ordinary use, the bobbin tension need never be changed from its factory adjusted setting. If, however, the tension does need to be changed, remove the bobbin case from the machine and turn the adjusting screw clockwise to increase, or counterclockwise to decrease tension.

Turn the hand wheel in the direction of normal rotation (counter-clockwise), until the needle is at its highest point. Lift the needle plate cover, open the latch on the bobbin case and withdraw it. The bobbin will be retained in the case as long as the latch is held open. Releasing the latch will free the bobbin from the case.

1. Disconnect the hand wheel from the stitching mechanism by turning the stop-motion knob counterclockwise while holding the hand wheel stationary. This allows the hand wheel to turn freely while the rest of the mechanism is idle.

2. If the thread to be wound on the bobbin is the same as the top thread, remove the thread from the needle, tension assembly and take-up arm leaving it in the top guides. If the thread in the bobbin is to be different, remove the top spool and set it aside.

3. Place the new spool of thread on the spool pin and run the thread under the tension disc on the rear thread guide.

4. Place the empty bobbin on the bobbin winder spindle and push it firmly against the spindle holder.

5. Press the lever to bring the bobbin winder drive into contact with the hand wheel, and continue to push until a click indicates it is locked into position.

6. Bring the thread through the front thread guide and feed the end of the thread through any hole in the left side of the bobbin from the inside out and pull it through until 8 to 10 inches extends.

7. Using the speed control, while holding the end of the thread tightly, begin winding the bobbin and after two or three revolutions the end will break off cleanly.

8. The bobbin winder will turn itself off automatically when the bobbin is full. Break the thread and return the bobbin to the bobbin case.

If the thread does not wind evenly, it may be adjusted. If the thread winds too heavily at the bottom of the bobbin, turn the adjusting screw clockwise. If it builds up at the top of the bobbin turn the screw counter-clockwise until it winds evenly.

Hold the bobbin case in the left hand with the slot in the edge of the case at the top. Hold the bobbin in the right hand so that the thread at the top leads away from you. Insert the bobbin into the case, pull the thread into the slot, draw it under the tension spring and into the fork-shaped opening of the spring. The bobbin is correctly installed if it turns in a clockwise direction when looking at the open end of the case, as you pull the thread. If it does not, remove bobbin, reverse and repeat procedure.

Hold the bobbin case latch between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, with at least 3 inches of thread extending from the bobbin. Place the bobbin case on the stud in the center of the shuttle body. Make sure the finger on the case is opposite the shuttle race notch. Press the bobbin case into the shuttle as far as it will go and release the latch. Push bobbin case against shuttle to make sure it latches securely.

1. Select a needle to fit the material to be sewn (refer to the needle and thread chart).

2. To set the needle in the needle clamp, turn the hand wheel toward the front of the machine until the take-up lever or needle bar reaches its highest position.

3. Loosen the thumb screw located on the needle clamp.

4. BE SURE THAT THE FLAT SIDE OF SHANK OF THE NEEDLE IS PLACED TOWARD THE RIGHT, OR TOWARD INSIDE, OF THE MACHINE.

5. Insert the needle in the clamp as far as it will go and tighten the thumb screw. These machines use Wards needle classified type 15 x 1.

1. Turn the hand wheel forward until the needle is raised to its highest position.

2. Place a spool of thread on the spool pin located on back of the sewing head arm above motor.

3. Pass the thread through the thread guides.

4. Draw the thread downward and between the tension discs from right to left, place the thread in guide notch at top of disc and bring the thread back down and under the check spring and up through the hole at the end of the take-up lever from right to left.

5. Now draw the thread down through the thread guides on front of arm and then through the thread guide on the needle clamp and through the eye of the needle from left to right.

6. Draw about 6 inches of thread through the eye of the needle. This is the length necessary to begin sewing.

REMEMBER, IF MACHINE IS NOT THREADED CORRECTLY, IT WILL NOT SEW PROPERLY.

To bring up the bobbin thread: Hold the end of the needle thread in your left hand so that the thread remains slack, and with the right hand turn the hand wheel slowly toward the front of the machine. Keep turning the hand wheel until the needle has moved down and up again to its highest position. In this operation, the needle thread will catch the bobbin thread drawing it up through the hole in the needle plate.

With the presser bar in the raised position, place the threads under the presser foot and lower the presser bar by dropping the presser bar lever at the rear of face plate. The threads should extend toward the back of the machine, between the toes of the presser foot, and after lowering the presser foot the threads should be firmly held between the feed and the foot. The machine is now ready to start sewing.

NOTE: Have take-up lever at its highest point before starting. Do not help the feed by pulling the material, as that may bend or break the needle. The machine feeds without assistance.

For all straight sewing set Stitch Width control at “O” and make sure there is no cam on the machine. Set the Pattern Elongator knob on “H” and adjust the Stitch Length control to the length desired. Turn the Buttonhole control knob up and to the right as far as it will go.

These machines may be adjusted to produce from 6 to 36 stitches per inch. Rotate the Stitch Length control knob to number “8” to obtain the longest stitch. Rotate the knob to some point between “O” and “1” to obtain the shortest stitch. The machine will not feed the material at the “O” setting. The feed may be reversed by depressing the center of the Stitch Length control knob.

For normal sewing the snap-lock darner shaft should be all the way down. Otherwise, pressure regulation of the presser foot is seldom necessary. Pressure is entirely released when snap-lock shaft is at its highest position. Increased pressure is accomplished by the snap-lock shaft completely down. To release pressure, press outer ring downward.

For mending or darning, release the pressure on the presser foot entirely so the material can be moved in any direction without resistance from the presser foot. For normal sewing, always return to the desired pressure on the presser foot by pressing down on snap-lock shaft.

For regular sewing always make sure feed dogs are in “feed” position or drop feed knob is turned to “Sew”.

With presser bar in the down position, and the material under the presser foot with the right amount of pressure, and the length of the stitch set, the machine is ready for actual operation.

Have take-up lever at its highest position before starting to sew. DO NOT try to help by pulling the material as this may deflect the needle and cause damage. Never run the machine without material between the presser foot and needle plate.

With the take-up lever at its highest position, press the foot or knee control. If machine fails to start, move hand wheel forward, or counter-clockwise. The speed of the machine is regulated by increasing or decreasing the amount of pressure exerted on the control. To turn corners, stop the machine while the needle is still in the material. Raise the presser foot and using the needle as a pivot, turn the material in the direction desired, lower the presser foot and continue sewing.

Be sure to stop the machine when the thread take-up lever and needle are at the highest position. Raise the presser foot and withdraw the fabric away from you and to the left and pass the threads over the thread cutter. Pull down slightly holding thread in both hands so as not to bend the needle, and the thread will be cut. Always leave the end of the thread under the presser foot.

Possible causes and corrections for skipping stitches:

• Using Incorrect Length of Needle: Replace with correct length 1-17/32″.

• Bent or blunt needle: Replace needle.

• Needle inserted incorrectly: See Chapter III, “Operation”.

• Needle threaded improperly: See Chapter III, “Operation”.

• Thread too heavy for needle: Refer to Figure 12 (Needle and Thread Chart).

• Pressure of Presser Foot Insufficient: See Chapter III, “Operation”.

• Dirt or lint in shuttle assembly: Clean thoroughly.

• Improper upper tension check spring adjustment: Refer to Chapter V, “Servicing”.

• Point of shuttle blunt or rough: Replace.

Possible causes and corrections for upper thread breakage:

• Incorrect needle length: Replace with correct length – 1-17/32″.

• Needle too fine for thread used: See Figure 12, “Needle and Thread Sizes”.

• Needle bent or needle point broken: Replace.

• Needle inserted incorrectly: See Chapter III, “Operation”.

• Needle not threaded properly: See Chapter III, “Operation”.

• Tension of needle thread too tight: Refer to Chapter III, “Thread Tensions”.

• Knots in thread: Change thread.

• Hole in needle plate rough or sharp: Replace.

• Starting machine at full speed: See Chapter III, “Operation”.

Possible causes and corrections for lower thread breakage:

• Poor quality thread: Change thread.

• Bobbin inserted incorrectly: See Chapter III, “Operation”.

• Bobbin thread tension too tight: See Chapter II, “Regulating Thread Tensions”.

• Bobbin wound too full: See Chapter III, “Operation”.

• Hole in needle plate rough or sharp, caused by needle striking the plate: File or sandpaper hole to assure smooth entrance or replace plate and needle.

• Bobbin thread not brought up correctly: See Chapter III, “Operation”, Threading Bobbin.

• Incorrect length of needle: Replace with needle 1-17/32″ length, refer to Chapter III, “Operation” or Owner’s Guide.

• Bent needle: Replace.

Possible causes and corrections for needle breakage:

• Using incorrect size of needle or thread for material being sewn: Review Chart “Needle and Thread Sizes”, Figure 12.

• Pressure foot or attachments not securely fastened to presser bar: Check to assure needle goes through needle hole plate without touching sides of plate or attachment. Tighten foot attachment.

• Pulling material from behind needle while sewing: Do not help machine feed material. Refer to “Owner’s Guide” on Operation; also Chapter III, “Operation” of Service Manual.

• Loose needle clamp: Replace needle and retighten thumb screw.

• Rough needle plate hole: Smooth out rough spots or replace plate.

• Needle strikes needle plate: Refer to Chapter V, “Servicing”.

• Cushion spring in rocker bent or broken: Replace spring.

• Bobbin case not inserted properly: See Chapter III, “Operation” covering “Bobbin Assembly”.

• Feed rocker shaft out of time: Refer to Chapter V, “Servicing”.

• Moving zigzag stitch width regulator control with needle in material while machine is not running: Review operation instruction in Owner’s Guide.

Possible causes and corrections for improper bobbin winding:

• Machine not threaded correctly (for winding): See Chapter III, “Operation”, “Winding Bobbin”.

• Thread jumping out of thread guides: Review how to wind bobbin, Chapter III, or Owner’s Guide.

• Misalignment of bobbin thread guide discs: See Chapter III, “Operation”, “Winding Bobbin”.

• Loose stop motion knob: Tighten stop motion knob on inner rim of hand wheel.

Possible causes and corrections for improper cloth feeding:

• Stitch length regulator lever or knob is set at “O”: Review operation instructions, Chapter III, or Owner’s Guide.

• Insufficient pressure on presser foot: Increase pressure by depressing snap lock darner; also see Chapter III, “Operation”.

• Presser foot not down on material: Presser foot must be on cloth during sewing period, except when darning or embroidering.

• Broken or damaged feed dogs: Replace.

• Improper needle for size of thread: Review chart covering needle and thread sizes, Figure 12.

Possible causes and corrections for wrinkling material:

• Needle thread tension too tight: Refer to “Regulating Thread Tension”, and adjust accordingly.

• Bobbin thread tension too tight: Refer to “Regulating Thread Tension”, and adjust accordingly.

• Presser foot pressure too great: Release pressure. Review Chapter III, “Operation”.

• Rough needle plate: Remove burrs or replace plate.

• Feed dogs set too high: Review Chapter V, “Servicing”, “Timing Rise and Fall of Feed Dogs”.

Possible causes and corrections for loose stitches:

• Presser foot not down completely: Lower presser foot lever; also check snap-lock darner, review Chapter III, “Operation”.

• Bent top thread check spring: Replace spring.

• Improper needle for size of thread: See Chapter III, “Operation”, Figure 11 (actually Figure 12), “Needle and Thread Size”.

• Thread wound unevenly on bobbin: Refer to Chapter III, “Winding Bobbin”.

• Upper thread tension too tight or too loose: Review Chapter II, “Regulating Thread Tension”.

• Bobbin thread too coarse: Replace, should be same as needle thread.

• Needle thread too coarse for material: Replace, refer to Figure 12.

• Needle not suited for material: Replace, refer to Figure 12.

• Needle point damaged: Replace needle.

• Poor quality of thread: Change thread.

• Accumulation of lint or thread in shuttle assy: Clean Assembly. See Chapter V, “Servicing”.

• Improper setting of presser foot: See Chapter III, “Operation”, “Regulating Foot Pressure”.

• Rough needle plate: Remove burrs or replace plate.

• Broken or damaged feed dogs: Replace. See Chapter V.

• Thread piled up on one side of bobbin: See Chapter III, “Operation”, “Winding of Bobbin”.

• Not enough thread through needle: Review threading and operating instructions. There must be at least 6 inches of thread through the needle.

Possible causes and corrections for a machine running hard:

• Motor belt too tight: Readjust motor bracket, review Chapter II, “Maintenance”.

• Thread accidentally wound around main shaft at the hand wheel under the belt guard: Remove hand wheel and clean out cause of bind.

• Bobbin winder not released, running while sewing: Release by pulling out on release latch. Review Chapter V, “Servicing”, “Bobbin Winder”.

• Lint, dirt or thread in shuttle assembly: Clean.

• Machine lubricated with unsuitable gummy oil: Pour a few drops of kerosene into each oil hole and run machine for a few minutes. Then wipe off all assemblies and lubricate with proper sewing machine oil.

• Improper adjusted feed dogs: Review Chapter V, “Servicing”, “Timing Rise and Fall of Feed Dogs”.

• Damaged or broken cushion spring in the hook rocker: Replace; refer to Chapter V, “Servicing”.

• Main shaft bent: Send head to factory for repair.

• Failure to oil bearing points: Review Chapter II, “Maintenance”.

• Binding connecting rod, fork, or shaft: Review Chapter V, “Servicing”.

• Tight feed rocker shaft or feed fork rod: Review Chapter V, “Servicing”.

Possible causes and corrections for a machine jamming or clogging:

• Incorrect threading: See Chapter III, “Operation”, and “Threading Machine”.

• Sewing without material: Clean out thread accumulation and insert material.

• Sewing with stitch length regulator lever or knob set at “O”: Move stitch length knob to a higher number, thus allowing material to move.

Possible causes and corrections for a hot foot or knee control:

• Running machine too long for one period: Reduce to shorter running periods.

• Failing to shut off: Review Chapter V, “Servicing”, “Foot or Knee Control”.

Possible causes and corrections for a hot motor:

• Lint, dirt or thread in shuttle assembly: Clean assembly.

• Drive belt too tight: See Chapter II, “Maintenance”.

• Over-oiling: See Chapter II, “Maintenance”.

• Binding of rocker shaft: Review Chapter V, “Servicing”.

• Main shaft bent: Send head to factory for repair.

• Zigzag assembly binding: Refer to Chapter V, “Servicing”, “Zigzag Assembly”.

Possible causes and corrections for noisy operation:

• Too much presser foot pressure: See Chapter III, “Operation”, Regulating Foot Pressure.

• Feed dogs binding on needle plate: Adjust, as covered in Chapter V, “Servicing”, Timing-Rise and Fall of Feed Dogs”.

• Lint, dirt or thread in hook or race assembly: Remove obstruction and add one drop of oil in race.

• Loose feed rocker shaft: Review Chapter V, “Servicing”, “Feed Fork Assembly”.

• Loose fork assembly: Review Chapter V, “Servicing”, “Feed Fork Assembly”.

• Loose rock shaft fork or connecting rod: Review Chapter V, covering these assemblies.

• Failing to oil vital bearing points: See Chapter II, “Maintenance”, place one drop of oil in all oil points.

• Wires hitting under-carriage causing vibration: Staple wires to case or cabinet.

• Loose zigzag drive assembly: Refer to Chapter V, “Servicing”, “Zigzag Assembly”.

Possible causes and corrections for inability to operate on zigzag:

• Stitch width regulator lever has not been set: Refer to Owner’s Guide.

• Width regulator lock is loose: Secure after width lever has been set.

• Geared cam worn: Replace.

• Upper shaft gear worn: Replace.

• Vertical rock shaft broken: Replace.

• Loose or broken needle bar drive rod: Tighten or replace.

Practically every complaint about poor sewing can be traced to one or more of the following: wrong needle, improper thread, or thread tensions. ALWAYS check these three items when servicing any sewing machine. Change the needle or thread if in doubt. Keep the shuttle assembly clean and know how to adjust thread tensions (refer to Chapter III, Operations, “Regulating Thread Tensions”).

The bases and covers of the portable cases are strongly built. If dropped, however, the corners may be split. Such damages are not covered under warranty. Either part can be ordered separately.

All cabinets are shipped with the lid, when open, slightly up at the outer edge to allow for normal initial sag. If someone leans on the end of the lid or if heavy objects are placed on the end, the hinges and screws may be pulled out. The table top holes can be filled with plastic wood, allowed to dry, and the screws can be reinserted.

The cabinets are of mortise and tenon glue joint construction. Only experienced cabinet repairmen should replace broken legs or other cabinet parts. If parts are needed, send the broken part for matching.

The bed pads (felts) on portable cases and cabinets must be kept under the front edge of the bed; replace if loose or lost. Failure to have these pads will cause noise and increase vibration. Cabinets are processed over a steel plate and will stand evenly. Adjust leg glides if necessary by driving them in further.

The wiring harness consists of the A.C. cord to the junction block in the portable case or cabinet, and the wires to the light, motor, and speed control.

The wire to the junction block goes through the accessory compartment in the portable case and into the cabinet in the console unit. Wires from the light and motor are stapled to the cabinet to prevent contact with moving parts under the bed plate, which would result in noisy operation.

The junction block sockets are marked “LIGHT” and “MOTOR”. If the plugs are inserted wrong, the motor will run continuously and the light will go on only when the foot or knee control is depressed.

The foot or knee control is a wire-wound step rheostat with a porcelain base unit. If dropped, the porcelain could be broken causing a short circuit; the porcelain block is available separately.

The knee control is used on console models only. If either control does not cut off, a drop of oil at the pedal hinge will free it. Sometimes paint or damage may cause friction at this hinge; if oil does not free the hinge, a slight bend with a screwdriver and pliers will free it.

If the control fails to cut off it will cause overheating of the control and motor. In case the rheostat misses or does not make contact on any of the points, remove the control bottom (snaps in place) and bend the contact arm down slightly for proper contact.

NOTE: BE SURE POWER CORD IS DISCONNECTED FROM A.C. outlet when repairing the foot or knee control.

The light is assembled into the face plate and directly over the sewing area. The light assembly (socket, switch, cord) is a complete unit; parts cannot be ordered separately. To replace: 1. Remove the light switch lock nut (on back of face plate cover). 2. Remove screws from light bracket in face plate. 3. Unthread cord from machine head. 4. Thread new cord through machine head. 5. Fasten socket and switch to face plate cover. To install a new bulb: unscrew the old bulb, replace with a 6 watt 115/125 volt bulb.

The motor is a 115 volt A.C., D.C. 1/15 H.P. brush type, drawing .9 amps. NOTE: THE MOTOR IS EQUIPPED WITH OIL-IMPREGNATED BRONZE BEARINGS. NO LUBRICATION IS NECESSARY. Brush noise on new units is natural and will subside as the machine is used.

To service the motor: 1. Remove bracket and entire motor assembly. 2. Remove two screws holding motor to motor bracket. 3. Repair or replace motor as needed. The motor bracket is adjustable up and down and is used to adjust the drive belt tension. The belt is made of Polyurethane and provides its own operating tension. If the belt is too tight, the motor may overheat. Proper belt adjustment allows sufficient slack so that belt can be pinched together easily just above the motor pulley. It is necessary to remove the hand wheel when changing belts.

Select the correct needle for the type of sewing to be done. Be sure it is straight, sharp and that the eye is large enough for the thread being used. A perfect needle can be determined by placing the flat side of the shank on any flat surface; the point of a perfect needle will be in line with the shank. The correct size needle together with the proper thread will help to produce a perfect stitch.

Refer to Figure 12 (Needle and Thread Chart). Both the needle and thread should be selected to suit the fabric. The length of the stitch should also be regulated according to the thickness of the material (heavier thickness requires a longer stitch, lighter materials may use a shorter stitch).

If the needle is too fine for the thread, it will likely cause the thread to ravel and break, especially over seams. Too large a needle on fine material will make large perforations and show on finished work.

The correct length of the needle is 1-17/32″ from the tip to the end of the shank. The needle must be perfectly straight and have a good point.

Failure to meet these specifications can result in: 1. Skipped stitches. 2. Cut thread, from striking the edge of the presser foot or needle hole in the needle plate. 3. Needle breakage, from striking edge of presser foot or needle plate. 4. Pulled cross threads in material, because of dull or flat needle point.

The needle must be inserted into the needle clamp with the flat side of the shank facing the needle clamp screw. Push the needle all the way into the needle bar slot until it reaches the stop. Failure to install correctly may result in skipped stitches or broken thread. The needle clamp holds the needle; tighten with fingers, but it is better to set it with a screwdriver. If the needle sticks in a thick seam, it may be pulled down, resulting in issues similar to using an incorrect length needle.

The proper height setting of the needle bar is important for the needle eye to relate correctly to the hook to catch the bottom thread. The needle bar is held by a set screw inside the arm, reached through an assembly hole at the rear of the face plate casting.

If bent or damaged, replace it: 1. Open the face and top arm cover. 2. Remove the needle clamp, presser foot, and needle bar thread guide. 3. Bring the needle bar to its lowest position and loosen the set screw. 4. Push the needle bar up and out through the top of the head assembly. Install a new bar in reverse. Before tightening the set screw, insert a needle into the needle clamp and tighten the clamp screw. Rotate the hand wheel manually so the needle bar is at its lowest position.

The needle bar thread guide (fastened with a small set screw) aligns the thread with the needle eye. If bent, broken, or out of place, poor stitching may result.

The presser foot holds material against feed dogs. Sides of the foot should be parallel with needle plate slots, resting level on feed dogs. Check alignment by placing white paper behind the machine, tilting the head to sight between foot bottom and feed dog while slowly lowering the foot. Bend the foot slightly left/right to correct leveling. If not level, material feeds crookedly.

Correct height of the foot (raised from needle plate) is approx 1/4″. Adjust by opening the face plate and loosening the set screw in the guide bracket holding the presser bar to the lifter arm.

Pressure on the presser foot is adjustable by the operator with the snap-lock darner on top; the center shaft should be all the way down for normal sewing. Too much pressure may mark light materials and cause feed noise.

To replace the bar: 1. Remove thread cutter and presser foot. 2. Remove snap-lock darner by unscrewing counterclockwise. 3. Loosen presser bar set screw. 4. Pull presser bar out top of sewing head. Replace in reverse order.

The take-up lever pulls thread up after stitch formation, locking the knot, and pulls enough thread for the next stitch. It’s timed with the take-up cam.

To test if bent vertically: check that the take-up is past its lowest position and starting up, just as the needle bar reaches its highest position. If it fails this, do not bend; install a new one.

If bent sideways, it may rub on the face plate (can be straightened by bending with caution).

A damaged take-up lever will cause: 1. Skipped stitches, 2. Thread breakage, 3. Possible needle breakage, 4. Poor stitching.

NOTE: There is no adjustment of the take-up lever. To replace: 1. Open arm cover. 2. Remove presser bar. 3. Remove two screws at top of presser bar, one screw at bottom, and remove top and bottom bushings. 4. Loosen set screw holding connecting pin and remove pin. 5. Remove the complete needle bar support assembly. 6. Loosen set screw in top of casting holding take-up pin and remove pin. 7. Loosen the two set screws in main shaft head holding take-up crank and remove complete take-up assembly. Reassemble in reverse order. Ensure needle and presser bar settings are adjusted. The short screw on the main shaft head must be set against the flat on the thread take-up crank for proper timing.

The needle passes directly through the center of the hole in the needle plate when the zigzag control is set on “O”, and when the needle plate is properly fastened and buttonhole control is off. Any deviation is likely the fault of the needle or needle bar.

The hole in the needle plate must be free from burrs or rough edges, which occur if a needle bends/breaks and strikes the edge. Smooth these spots with string emery cloth, or install a new plate. Burrs or roughness cause: 1. Frequent thread breakage, 2. Skipped stitches, 3. Frayed or stripped thread, 4. Lint accumulations.

A broken needle can strike the bridge between feed dogs on the needle plate, bending it downward. This must be corrected so the plate is perfectly level, or it will cause: 1. Improper and uneven feeding of material, 2. Skipped stitches.

The needle plate is attached to a hinged plate, which must also be straight and free from burrs or rough spots for free material flow. Piling up of thread and needle breakage can occur if not.

To increase tension, turn tension knob to the right (clockwise). To loosen, turn knob to the left (counterclockwise).

DISASSEMBLY (See Figure 19): 1. Lower the presser foot. 2. Loosen the set screw holding the tension assembly. 3. Pull the tension assembly and release pin from the machine. 4. Disassemble the release pin. 5. Loosen the set screw in the knob and remove the knob. 6. Unscrew the sleeve and remove the cone spring, washer, and the two tension discs. 7. Loosen the two set screws in the body and remove the stud, take-up spring, and cover from the body. CLEAN AND REPLACE PARTS AS NECESSARY.

ASSEMBLY (See Figure 19): 1. Assemble the cover to the body so the tab inside the cover engages the slot in the body. 2. Holding the two pieces in the left hand so the tab in the cover is in the slot in the body and the red mark on the cover is at the top, insert the loop of the take-up spring in the large opening of the cover and drop the coiled part of the spring into the chamber in the body. 3. Continue to hold the cover, body and take-up spring in the left hand, and with the right hand, insert the stud with the slot in a horizontal position. Rotate the stud counterclockwise until the slot is in a vertical position and aligned with the red mark on the cover. This engages the lower end of the check spring with one of the grooves on the stud. With the right hand, raise the end of the take-up spring to ensure spring action. 4. Tighten the two set screws in the body. 5. Assemble four pieces on the stud as follows: A. Tension disc, concave in. B. Tension disc, concave out. C. Release washer, concave in. D. Cone spring pointing out with the end engaged in the slot of the stud and pointing at the red mark on the cover. 6. Continue to hold the assembly in the left hand. Spread the halves of the stud with a screwdriver to ensure the sleeve fits tightly. Turn the sleeve in the stud until it touches but does not compress the cone spring. 7. Lower the presser foot. 8. Insert the release pin into the tension assembly and install the unit in the machine with the red mark on the cover in the 12 o’clock position. Guide the end of the release pin to engage the end of the presser bar lifter lever. 9. Tighten the set screw to hold the tension assembly in position. 10. With the line between 1 and 7 on the dial of the knob in the 1 o’clock position, insert the knob into the tension assembly. Rotate the knob counterclockwise so that the stop inside the knob engages the end of the cone spring when the line is at 12 o’clock. 11. Turn the set screw on the knob until it barely touches the sleeve. Pull the knob back slightly until the set screw can be turned further into the groove on the sleeve. The set screw should now be in the proper position over the groove, and the knob will move in and out a short distance but remain held. Tighten the set screw. 12. Raise the presser bar to ensure the release pin operates to release the tension discs. 13. Turn tension knob to adjust tension as desired. The tension discs must be kept free of lint, dirt, and oil. NEVER OIL ANY PART OF THE TENSION ASSEMBLY.

Only two parts on the bobbin case typically need service: the latch (if broken/bent, a new case is needed) and the bobbin case tension spring (if damaged/worn, repair or replace).

One screw holds the spring to the case and also serves as the adjustment screw. Bobbin thread tension is factory-set and rarely needs changing. If adjustment is needed: To increase tension: turn the screw slightly to the right (clockwise). To decrease tension: turn the screw to the left (counterclockwise). There should always be a slight drag on the thread, never a hard pull.

Troubles to look for with the bobbin case tension spring: 1. A thread end or lint may be wedged between the spring and the case, interfering with proper operation. This can result in inability to hold lower tension, bad stitching, or breakage of lower thread. Remove the spring and clean. When replacing, set it for a slight drag on the thread when pulled through. 2. Check that the bobbin is not overloaded. It should never be more than 3/4 full, and thread on the bobbin should not extend above the sides of the bobbin, or it will bind against the inside of the bobbin case and destroy tension balance.

The shuttle race cover holds the oscillator hook (shuttle) in place and is held by a latch on each side. NOTE: The shuttle race assembly must be inspected frequently for accumulation of lint, thread, oil, or dirt. A shuttle cleaner (crescent-shaped plastic piece) is positioned beside the shuttle driver and oscillates to keep the race clean. It is driven by a tab on the driver engaging a notch in the cleaner. It’s easily removable by removing the shuttle race cover and lifting out the cleaner.

This area should be inspected frequently and the race oiled with one drop of oil to prevent noisy operation and improve stitching.

The shuttle body floats freely in the shuttle race body and must be free of lint, thread ends, excess oil, and dirt. Accumulation is a major cause of: 1. Noise, 2. Skipped stitches, 3. Thread breaking, 4. Machine locking.

The shuttle body itself must be free of burrs or rough spots and have a smooth, sharp point. Broken points require replacing the shuttle body. DO NOT try to repoint a broken shuttle point, as this will make it too short and destroy shuttle timing. A damaged or short point can result in: 1. Frequent thread breakage, 2. Skipped stitches, 3. Race noise.

The shuttle driver is pinned to the shuttle driver shaft, and the shuttle driver shaft crank is pinned to the shuttle driver shaft. With this type of assembly, it is impossible for the shuttle to get out of time at this point.

NOTE: The only part of the shuttle driver shaft assembly that might be subject to damage or wear is the shuttle driver spring. This can be replaced by removing two screws. If the shuttle driver spring is bent or broken it can cause: 1. Thread breakage, 2. Skipped stitches, 3. Noise, 4. Binding.

The oscillating rock shaft activates the forward and back movement of the shuttle driver shaft. It is held in place by two cone pointed screws and lock nuts. The only adjustment is a correction of end play or bind.

The connecting rod connects the oscillating rock shaft under the bed plate with the upper shaft across the top of the head. Seldom does it need attention. Failure to oil the upper bearing will result in excessive wear and noise.

To replace: 1. Remove top cover. 2. Remove two cap screws securing the rod to the arm shaft. 3. Using a 7/16″ box end wrench, remove lower pin nut and bolt assembly. 4. Remove rod through bottom of head. 5. Wash all parts before reassembling. 6. Test for end play and oil all moving parts and bearing surfaces as you reassemble.

The correct timing is as follows: With the feed dog all the way up, set the Stitch Length control at No. 8. Turn the hand wheel until the needle reaches its highest position, and the feed dog should reach its highest position at the same time. As a further check, the feed dog should drop below the needle plate when the needle is 1/16″ from the material.

The rise and fall adjustment is made with the feed driver link which connects the feed rocker arm to the feed shaft. Loosen the crank screw (A in Figure 24) and move the link slightly up or down as required. This adjustment is seldom necessary.

The hook (shuttle) must clear the point of the needle approximately 1/64″. Too much clearance will cause skipped stitches; too little allows the needle to strike the hook.

To adjust: 1. Tip machine back to expose the lower side of the bed. 2. Remove the bobbin case, shuttle race cover, and shuttle body from the shuttle race. 3. Turn the hand wheel until the point of the needle is just below the bottom of the needle plate. 4. Replace the shuttle body in its proper position and hold firmly in place. 5. Revolve hand wheel slowly until hook passes the needle. NOTE: If the needle strikes any portion of the hook, do not continue to rotate the hand wheel before adjusting the shuttle race.

To adjust the shuttle race: Loosen set screw (B in Figure 24). While holding the shuttle in place in the inner race, slowly rotate the eccentric until the desired adjustment is obtained. Retighten set screw.

A separate instruction for this adjustment is: 1. Tip the head back to expose the bottom mechanism. 2. Turn the hand wheel until the needle is just below the needle plate. 3. Remove the shuttle race cover and turn the hand wheel slowly while holding the shuttle in place. 4. To adjust, loosen the clamp screw shown in Figure 37, move the shuttle to achieve the proper clearance, and tighten the screw.

The feed dog moves the material. Positions range from full drop to full rise. High position for heavy materials, low for delicate. Position is manually selected by pushbuttons on the bed. The feed dog must move up and down freely in needle plate slots; friction causes noise and hard running.

A broken or damaged feed dog can be replaced by removing the needle plate and the two screws holding the feed dog to the feed rocket arm.

The feed rock shaft (drives feed dog) is held by two cone-pointed set screws and lock nuts (one on each end). Breakage, excessive noise, or binding are the only causes for adjustment. To adjust: use a 9/16″ box end wrench to loosen lock nuts and a screwdriver to adjust set screws. Ensure lock nuts are secure afterward.

The feed rock shaft is connected with the feed fork rod by a slotted link (shaft crank) with a screw adjustment. Timing here is needed only if the feed rocker shaft is removed/replaced. If removing, scratch mark the crank’s setting on the shaft before loosening. This allows re-assembly in the original position.

If a shaft or crank needs replacement, the forward and back timing is: 1. With the feed dog in the raised position, set the Stitch Length control at the No. 8. 2. Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel. 3. Observe the position of the feed dog. The rear edge of the feed dog (away from operator) should be exactly 3/16″ from the rear edge of the opening in the needle plate. 4. Loosen set screw (D in Figure 24) in the connecting link. 5. Hold rocker shaft with pliers and turn the hand wheel slightly to change its position. 6. Measure to ensure feed dog is correct (3/16″). 7. Tighten crank set screw securely. Keep the same lateral position on the shaft to avoid bind.

The feed fork rod straddles the feed cam on the main shaft assembly. Normally no adjustment is needed. If a broken feed fork needs replacement: 1. Zigzag assembly must be removed first. 2. Loosen set screws holding spiral gear to main shaft and move gear away from feed cam toward center post. 3. Loosen screw on feed cam and slide cam out of fork rod toward center post. 4. Tip head back and remove nut and screw holding fork to connecting link. 5. Pull downward on the fork and slide the slide block and stud out of the feed regulator block.

The spread of the fork: if loose on the feed cam, machine will be noisy. To narrow spread, strike fork on a solid steel block/vise at point of the bulge (Figure 25). Test fit until snug but not tight enough to bind.

Re-assembling: Insert fork from bottom of machine and fit slide block into feed regulator block. Replace screw and nut holding fork to connector crank. Lower head and move feed cam back into position, with the hole on the side of the feed cam directly above the timing mark on the main shaft. The set screw in the feed cam should now be in the up position. Tighten feed cam set screw securely. Move spiral gear back into position and secure set screws. Use adjustments covered under Feed Rocker Shaft Assembly to ensure no binding or noise. (Feed cam replacement on main shaft is a factory repair).

Set the stitch length control to maximum and rotate the hand wheel slowly until the feed dog strikes the needle plate. Tip the head back to expose the mechanism underneath and loosen the feed rocker shaft retaining screw (Figure 26). If the feed dog strikes the front of the needle plate, move it by pressing slightly at the front of the assembly (Figure 27). If contact is at the rear of the needle plate, press slightly at the point shown in Figure 28 (this appears to be the same mechanism as Figure 27, just a different view or point of pressure for rear strikes).

The balance (hand) wheel revolves freely on the main shaft and is kept in operating contact by the clutch action of the stop motion screw (brake button).

If the hand wheel wobbles, it indicates the wheel has been bent on the end of the main shaft. This requires factory repair for a new main shaft. Hard running, in addition to wobble, also indicates a bent main shaft.

The stop motion button or knob, when tightened clockwise, keeps the machine in sewing operation. Turning the knob counterclockwise frees the hand wheel for bobbin winding.

The clamp stop motion washer (lock washer) is installed with its raised tips facing outward. To remove the lock washer and hand wheel: loosen or remove the stop screw and unscrew the knob counterclockwise. Remove lock washer and hand wheel.

When re-assembling, the stop screw should be turned all the way in. If it strikes a lip on the lock washer, remove the stop screw and knob and change the position of the lock-washer 1/2 turn. The stop screw should go all the way in to function correctly.

The bobbin winder is assembled as a unit and the only adjustment is in the stop latch. The latch is set so that the mechanism releases and drops away from the hand wheel when the bobbin is 3/4 full.

If it fails to release, it may be bent in or out as required. Be careful not to bend the latch up or down, as this will cause it to strike the edge of the bobbin. Use a 3/4 full bobbin for proper adjustment and be sure it is all the way on the spindle with the slot in the bobbin locked on the pin in the bobbin winder spindle. If the bobbin is not centered properly, the mechanism will not lock.

If the bobbin winds unevenly, turn the adjusting screw (Figure 30). If thread piles up at the bottom of the bobbin, turn the screw clockwise. If it piles up at the top, turn the screw counter-clockwise until it winds evenly.

If the needle is not centered in the needle plate hole with all cams removed, the buttonhole knob turned “off”, and the stitch width control set at “O”, it will have to be adjusted.

To adjust: Rotate the hand wheel so the needle is in the hole. This also exposes a set screw on the upright arm shaft (Figure 31). Loosen the set screw and turn the eccentric screw until the needle is centered. Retighten the set screw.

The starting point(s) on the buttonhole cam (BH) must always point to the B.H. cam follower (Figure 32) before starting to sew a buttonhole. If the buttonhole is started with the cam in a different position, the first bar-tack may not be made.

If the buttonhole is completed but the stitches are uneven, an adjustment must be made: On 285A and B heads, the right side of the buttonhole is predetermined by the stitch length control and cannot be varied. The left side stitching can be changed by adjusting the fine tuning (Figure 33). Turning this screw clockwise will open the left side stitching; counter-clockwise will close or tighten the left side stitches. This adjustment is very sensitive and should be made in small increments, checking the buttonhole after each change.

On the 285C head, the fine tuning knob (Figure 34) controls the left side stitching, and the right side can be varied with the stitch length control. The adjustment procedure for the left side on “C” models is the same as for “A” and “B” heads.

The buttonhole cam follower (Figure 35) can be adjusted after loosening the two mounting screws. With the buttonhole cam in place, the cam follower should be adjusted to make contact at the red dot on the cam. The position of the cam can be changed by “ratcheting” it around with the cam rotator (Figure 35).

NOTE: THE PATTERN ELONGATOR MUST BE SET ON SOME NUMBER. IT WILL NOT WORK AT THE “H” POSITION!

Turn the hand wheel so the needle is at its lowest point. The point of the needle should emerge just under the point of the shuttle hook.

If it needs adjustment: 1. Leave the needle at its lowest point. 2. Insert a screwdriver into the hole on the inside of the arm (Figure 36). 3. Loosen the set screw on the needle bar connecting link stud. 4. Raise or lower the needle bar as needed and tighten the set screw. Be sure you don’t rotate the needle bar during this operation.

To adjust: 1. Raise arm cover and remove black inside cover plate by removing two mounting screws. 2. Set elongator knob at #1. 3. Set Stitch Width knob to “O”. 4. Turn hand wheel until elongator driving arm is at the low side of the elongator cam (Figure 38). 5. Move the stitch width control to #5 and lock it. This exposes the two screws (Figure 38) which hold the stitch width control arm to the stitch width control. 6. Loosen the two screws slightly. This will allow the arm to move. Put the stitch width control on “O” and move the arm in or out to eliminate the zigzag while running the machine slowly. Tighten the back set screw, move the width control to #5, then tighten the other screw.

If the bed plate is damaged, the sewing machine will have to be returned to the source for repair, as this is a factory job.

Use care when setting the sewing head in the cabinet or portable case. Do not exert too much pressure on the holding screws in the hinge holes. Too much pressure could break the casting at that point, resulting in a costly repair. Hinge head screws must be firm to prevent the head from slipping, but do not use force. Be sure the screws are loose enough to allow the hinge pins to enter and leave the holes freely.