KENMORE 158.17860 (01) PDF MANUAL

KENMORE 158.17860 (01) PDF SUMMARY:

How do I convert to free-arm sewing?

To convert to free-arm, push the base release button and swing the base up and away.

---

How do I remove the base if space is needed?

• For models with a base release button, push the base release button, pull the base to the left.
• To replace the base, insert the guide pin into position and swing the base down toward you until it snaps in place.

---

How do I wind the bobbin?

1. Place thread on the spool pin and cover with a cap. Draw thread from spool through rear thread guides and the bobbin winder tension disc as indicated.
2. Pull the end of the thread through any hole in the bobbin and place the bobbin on the bobbin winder shaft with the end of the thread coming from the top of the bobbin as shown.
3. Push the bobbin winder latch against the bobbin until it clicks. Then pull the hand wheel out from the machine to disengage the clutch. Hold the end of the thread coming from the bobbin and step on the foot control. After several rotations of the bobbin, release the thread.
4. When the bobbin is full, winding stops automatically. Push in the hand wheel. Remove the bobbin from the shaft and trim the thread end.

For best stitching results, use clear plastic lightweight bobbins when stitching at high speed with the widest and longest stitch setting.

---

How do I thread the bobbin case?

1. Raise the needle to its highest position by rotating the hand wheel toward you.
2. Remove the bobbin cover plate by lifting up the front.
3. Insert the bobbin into the bobbin case, making sure the bobbin rotates counterclockwise.
4. Pull the thread through slot A and then to the left.
5. Pull the thread through slot B and leave about 4 inches of thread.
6. Replace the bobbin cover plate, allowing the thread to emerge through the slot in the needle plate.

---

How do I stretch or shorten designs?

You can modify green cam designs by turning the stitch modifier (inside the length control) slightly.

• To shorten the design, turn the stitch modifier control toward “S”.
• To lengthen, turn toward “L”.

---

How do I thread the top thread?

1. Raise the thread take-up lever to its highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you. Raise the presser foot lever and place the thread spool on the spool pin and place the spool cap over the spool.
2. Draw the thread through rear thread guides A, B, and C. Pull the thread through the tension discs D. Pull the end of the thread taut with the left hand. This will pull the spring wire up and put the end of the hook, D,. The thread will then slip into the hook when the spring is released.
3. Draw the thread up through thread guide E, take-up lever F, and down through lower thread guides to the needle.
4. The needle must be threaded from front to rear. Draw 3 to 4 inches of thread through the eye of the needle.

---

How do I pick up the bobbin thread?

1. Raise the presser foot lever. Hold the needle thread loosely in the left hand and rotate the handwheel toward you one complete turn.
2. Bring the bobbin thread up by pulling the upper thread.
3. Pull both threads under and to the back of the presser foot, leaving 3 to 4 inches of thread clear.

If you can not pick up the bottom thread by following the above steps, then check:

1. Is the thread through the needle?
2. Is the thread tangled around the needle?
3. Are there 3 to 4 inches of thread coming out of the bobbin case?
4. Is the thread from the bobbin case tangled?

---

How do I insert a cam?

Raise the cam holder cover and place the cam in the cam holder while pushing the cam lever to the right. Just be sure the retaining pin in the cam holder enters one of the holes in the cam. Push down as far as possible.

---

How do I remove a cam?

Push down on the cam shaft with the left hand, and push the cam lever to the right with the right hand. The cam will pop up for removal.

---

How do I start a pattern at its beginning?

Align the engraved dot on the cam as close as possible to the cam follower. You’re ready to sew.

---

What are some tips on design stitching?

• Always make a practice design on a scrap of the fabric you plan to use.
• Start with a full bobbin and plenty of thread on the spool to avoid running out of thread in the middle of your design.
• Reduce the top thread tension slightly.
• On a very soft fabric, you may want to use tissue paper backing or organdy that can be cut away.

---

How do I adjust the thread tension control for straight stitching?

Balanced tension is achieved by regulating the top thread tension control. If the upper thread appears too tight, turn counterclockwise (lower numbers) to decrease tension. If the upper thread is too loose, turn clockwise (higher numbers) to increase tension.

---

What should I do before zigzag stitching?

• Always practice stitching on a scrap of the fabric you will be using.
• Make sure that you are using the right size and type of needle for the fabric.
• Choose a thread of good quality and type for your fabric.
• Remember, the wider the zigzag setting, the more chance for puckering. Reduce the top tension if puckering occurs.

---

How do I adjust the stitch width control?

Turn only the outer rim of this control to set the stitch width. This control must be on the orange dot in order to do straight stitching. The higher the number, the wider the stitch. You may vary your zigzag stitch width by adjusting this control to the setting you desire.

---

How do I adjust the stitch length control?

Turn only the outer rim of this control to set the stitch length. The higher the number, the shorter the stitch. The number on the stitch length control indicates the approximate number of stitches per inch. The stitch setting you use will be determined by the thickness of the fabric you are sewing. A longer stitch setting should be used for thicker fabric or more layers of fabric. The middle range of the control is the 10-12 stitch per inch range, which is the most commonly used. A basting stitch is made by using the longest possible stitch setting – 6 stitches per inch. The orange zone on the control is the setting used for the shortest stitches such as in satin stitching.

---

How do I back tack?

It is best to begin and end seams with a few stitches taken in reverse. Back tacking fastens the ends of the seams firmly and prevents unraveling. When reverse stitching is needed, turn the control clockwise and hold there during sewing. The fabric will immediately start feeding backward and the seam will be fastened.

---

How do I adjust the pressure regulator?

Push down the outer ring of the pressure regulator. This will release the pressure on the presser foot. To increase the pressure, push down the inner pin until a suitable pressure is obtained. Insufficient pressure may cause poor feeding of the fabric, skipped stitches, or difficulty in guiding the fabric. If feed dogs or presser foot marks appear on the fabric, reduce the pressure.

---

How do I raise the presser foot lever?

The presser foot lever has a two-position lift. In order to place heavy fabric under the presser foot or to change the presser foot, raise the presser foot lever to its maximum upward position as shown.

---

How do I adjust the stitch length for stretch stitches?

Depending upon your preference in stitch patterns, you may make stretch stitches closer together without changing the balance of the stitch by turning the stitch length control to higher numbers up to “12”. This feature is available on models 17860, 17861, and 17862 only.

---

How do I adjust the stretch stitch balance?

The stitch modifier should be in the notched position between S and L for most materials. Depending upon the type of fabric used, you may need to adjust this control to match the forward stitch of stretch sewing with reverse motion stitches. To shorten stretch stitches, turn the modifier slightly toward “S”; to lengthen, turn toward “L”.

---

How do I change the needle?

1. Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you.
2. Loosen the needle clamp screw.
3. Holding the needle with the flat side away from you, slip the needle into the needle bar.
4. When it is in as far as it will go, tighten the needle clamp screw with the small screwdriver provided in the accessory box.

---

What presser feet are supplied with the machine?

• Zigzag presser foot for general sewing purposes
• Straight stitch foot
• Satin stitch foot
• Buttonhole foot
• Built-in buttonhole guide foot
• Zipper foot

---

How do I change the presser feet?

Make sure the needle is in the up position and raise the presser foot lever.

• Snap-on presser feet:
  1. Raise the foot release lever to remove the foot.
  2. Place the desired foot on the needle plate, aligning needle holes. Lower the presser foot lever so that the foot holder snaps on the foot.
• One-piece presser feet:
  1. Loosen the presser foot thumbscrew and remove the foot holder.
  2. Insert the desired foot from the left. Lower the presser foot lever and tighten the screw using the large screwdriver to make certain the foot is secure.
• For machines with a presser foot lock:
  • To change presser feet, simply drop the presser foot lock and slip the foot away from the presser bar. Raise the presser foot lever beyond the normal up position and place the new foot on the presser bar. To lock the foot securely, raise the presser foot lock as high as possible.

---

How to do shell stitching?

To achieve the scalloped effect, allow the needle to just clear the right edge of the fabric when it zig zags.

---

How to do box stitch?

Overlap the raw edges of two pieces of fabric 1/4" and pin or tack. Place the fabric right side up with the middle of the overlap under the center of the presser foot so that the stitch sews just over the top and bottom raw edges.

---

How to do decorative edging?

Turn the raw edge under 1/4" and press. Place the fabric right side up with the middle of the turnover under the center of the presser foot, so that the stitch sews onto the fold and just over the raw edge underneath.

---

How to do fagoting stitch?

1. Fold under the seam allowances on the cut edges and press.
2. Baste folded edges to tissue paper with about 1/8" space between.
3. Stitch over the 1/8" allowance, just catching the fabric fold on both sides with the needle.
4. Remove basting and paper and press.

---

How do I do blind hemming?

1. Finish the edge of the hem evenly. Turn up hem desired width.
2. Fold the garment under the presser foot in such a manner that a straight stitch will be sewn on the extended edge. The zigzag stitch should just catch the fold of the garment.
3. Fold the garment away from the hem, leaving 1/8" of the hem edge extending.
4. Press both sides of the finished hem. The right side of the garment will show only the blind stitches.

It is recommended you use the adjustable blind hem foot (optional accessory item No. 6886) for easier blind hemming.

---

How to do mending and overcast stitching?

• Mending a tear:
  1. Set the stitch length to the orange zone.
  2. To repair a straight or three-cornered tear, position the tear under the needle in such a way that the stitching catches both sides of the tear.
  3. When mending a three-cornered tear, stitch from each end to the center.
  4. It is well to use a piece of fabric under the tear for reinforcement.
• Overcasting with mending stitch:
  • Set the stitch length to 12 or higher. Three-step zig-zag is a strong stitch because, as its name implies, it takes three short stitches where a normal zig-zag takes one. For this reason, it is highly recommended for overcasting, i.e., finishing a raw edge, on all types of fabric.

---

How do I change the needle plate?

1. Raise the needle to its highest position and raise the presser foot.
2. Remove the accessory box and bobbin cover plate.
3. Remove the needle plate by placing your thumb under the edge of the plate and lifting up and out.
4. Place the other needle plate, making sure the bobbin case is in position as shown. Push it down with both hands to lock it.
5. Replace the bobbin cover plate.

Do not turn the hand wheel away from you while the needle plate is removed, or the needle may hit the bobbin case and cause needle damage.

---

How do I attach the darning plate?

1. Raise the needle to its highest position and raise the presser foot.
2. Attach the darning plate over the needle plate, aligning the two pins of the darning plate with the holes of the needle plate.
3. You may then determine the movement of the fabric yourself.

---

How does the buttonhole attachment work?

The buttonhole attachment is a Kenmore “special” that guides the fabric for you and eliminates the need to turn the fabric by hand. The desired size of the buttonhole is selected by turning the template advance knob. The length of the buttonhole appears in the window on the top side of the guide plate.

---

How do I applique?

1. Set the settings the same as satin stitching.
2. Select an applique design to be applied to your garment and baste it in place.
3. Satin stitch around the raw edge of the applique, completely covering the edge. You may want to do this with a contrasting color of thread.

---

How do I sew a button?

1. Special Stitch Dial: set to button.
2. Adjust the stitch width to the button.
3. Use the darning plate.
4. Fix the button on the fabric at the desired position with clear tape.
5. Center the left hole of the button between the straight seamline and the left edge of the needle slot of the foot, and lower the foot to hold the button securely.
6. Turn the hand wheel manually until the needle point is just above the button.
7. Adjust the stitch width control so the needle will enter the right hole of the button.
8. Turn the hand wheel again by hand so the needle enters the second hole. Readjust the stitch width if necessary. Stitch a number of times.
9. Finish sewing with an extra two inches of thread remaining. Draw these threads to the reverse side of the garment and tie.

When sewing a flat button, place a needle or pin between the holes of the button as shown to provide flexibility for buttoning.

---

How do I overcast?

Stitch so the needle pierces the fabric just short of the outside edge. Raw or worn edges of older garments can be overcast to prevent further raveling.

---

How do I satin stitch?

1. Special Stitch Dial – w
2. Stitch Width: 1 to 4
3. Stitch Modifier – Orange Dot
4. Stitch Length – Orange Zone
5. Use satin stitch foot

Closely-spaced zigzag stitches are called satin stitches. They add a lovely finishing touch to garments and linens whether in simple sewing or super decorations with any of your pattern cams or embroidery designing. Use a special satin stitch foot which is “grooved” to permit dense stitching to pass under it easily.

It’s a good idea to loosen the tension of the top thread slightly. The wider the stitch, the looser the tension needed. If you are stitching on a very soft fabric, use a backing of tissue paper or interfacing for a well-formed stitch. Also, this will prevent puckering and the bobbin thread will not show on the right side of the material.

It’s best to try it out on a remnant of your fabric.

---

How do I bar tack?

1. Use the same settings as satin stitching.
2. This stitch is similar to a very short satin stitch and is used to reinforce points of strain such as corners of pockets and straps on lingerie.
3. Sew 4 to 6 zigzag stitches.

---

How do I clean the feed dogs?

1. Remove the bobbin cover plate and needle plate.
2. Using a small brush, remove the lint that accumulates in and around the feed dogs and shuttle area.

---

How do I clean and oil the shuttle area?

1. Remove the bobbin case by lifting it out from the left side.
2. Clean the shuttle with a small brush and put a drop of oil on the oil points indicated by arrows. Don’t over-oil.

Do not use household oil, use sewing machine oil.

---

How do I replace the bobbin case?

1. Insert the bobbin case into the shuttle from the left side and turn it counter-clockwise until it stops.
2. Replace the needle plate in position.

---

How do I change the light bulb?

1. Push the switch to “off”.
2. Unplug the machine and swing the face cover plate open.
3. Raise the lamp shade.
4. Push up on the bulb slightly and turn the bulb to the left.
5. Withdraw the bulb from the socket.
6. Push in the new bulb and turn to the right.

---

What should I do if the machine does not sew?

• Hand wheel not returned to stitching position
• Power cord not connected
• Power/light switch off

---

How do I remove fabric?

1. Turn the handwheel toward you until the needle is at its highest position.
2. Raise the presser foot.
3. Draw materials to the rear.
4. Cut off excess thread with the thread cutter located on the presser bar.

---

How do I darn?

1. Remove the presser foot.
2. Stretch the fabric between embroidery hoops with the hole centered.
3. Draw the bobbin thread up through the fabric by holding the top thread and taking one stitch at the spot where you wish to start darning.
4. Lowering the presser bar, start sewing at a slow to medium speed.
5. Move the fabric back and forth with a steady rhythm to cover the darning area.
6. When it is covered, turn the fabric and sew another layer of stitching across the first layer of stitching.

---

How do I fasten a seam?

1. Be sure both threads are drawn back under the presser foot.
2. Lower the needle into the fabric about 1/2 inch from the beginning of the seam.
3. Depress the reverse stitch lever and stitch in reverse until the needle reaches the beginning of the seam.
4. Release control and complete the seam.
5. When you reach the end, depress the reverse stitch lever and sew back about 1/2 inch of completed seam.

---

How do I turn a square corner?

1. Stop stitching with the needle piercing the fabric when reaching the cornering guide.
2. Raise the presser foot and turn the fabric.
3. The new stitching line will align with the 5/8" seam guide on the side of the needle plate.
4. Lower the presser foot and begin stitching in the new direction.

---

How do I temporarily sew by machine?

• Basting by machine: Use straight stitching with the longest available length setting.
• Pin basting: You can sew over pins safely if done correctly because the pins act like feed dogs. The pins must be inserted at right angles to the seam line. The tip of the pin should just touch the seam line. Sew over the heads of the pins. Pins must not come in contact with the needle on the underside of the fabric. Sew slowly. If in doubt about sewing over pins, remove each as you approach it.
• Stay-stitching: Stay-stitching is a form of temporary seaming that prevents stretching of curved edges of garments. Usually, this is on a single layer of fabric, so reduce the top thread tension slightly to prevent puckering. Sew about 1/8" away from the intended seam line.

---

How do I apply a zipper or cording?

Use a zipper foot.

• Regular zipper: The foot is adjustable for use on the right or left side of the needle when sewing a regular type of zipper. Adjust the foot so the needle clears the edge notch on the foot. Carefully follow directions given on the zipper package.
• Cording: To make cording for slipcovers, etc., cover the cord with a strip of true bias. Adjust the foot to the left of the needle.

---

What are the Machine Setting Chart for different stitches?

• Straight Stitch:
  • Stitch Dial: Straight
  • Stitch Width Dial: 0
  • Stitch Length Dial: Any number
  • Stitch Modifier: Red Dot
  • Foot: A or B
  • Needle Plate: D or E
• Zigzag:
  • Stitch Dial: Zigzag
  • Stitch Width Dial: 1-4
  • Stitch Length Dial: Any Number
  • Stitch Modifier: Red Dot
  • Foot: B
  • Needle Plate: E
• Mending:
  • Stitch Dial: Mending
  • Stitch Width Dial: 3-4
  • Stitch Length Dial: Red Zone-12
  • Stitch Modifier: Red Dot
  • Foot: B
  • Needle Plate: E
• Box:
  • Stitch Dial: Box
  • Stitch Width Dial: 2-4
  • Stitch Length Dial: Red Zone-12
  • Stitch Modifier: Red Dot
  • Foot: B
  • Needle Plate: E
• Shell:
  • Stitch Dial: Shell
  • Stitch Width Dial: 2-4
  • Stitch Length Dial: 12-10
  • Stitch Modifier: D
  • Foot: B
  • Needle Plate: E
• Straight Stretch:
  • Stitch Dial: Straight Stretch
  • Stitch Width Dial: 1
  • Stitch Length Dial: Green Dot
  • Stitch Modifier: White or A
  • Foot: D
  • Needle Plate: E
• Rick-Rack:
  • Stitch Dial: Rick-Rack
  • Stitch Width Dial: 1-4
  • Stitch Length Dial: Green Dot
  • Stitch Modifier: B
  • Foot: E
• Serging:
  • Stitch Dial: Serging
  • Stitch Width Dial: 1-4
  • Stitch Length Dial: Green Dot
  • Stitch Modifier: B
  • Foot: E
• Overcast:
  • Stitch Dial: Overcast
  • Stitch Width Dial: 1
  • Stitch Length Dial: Green Dot
  • Stitch Modifier: White Dot
  • Foot: B
  • Needle Plate: E
• Elastic:
  • Stitch Dial: Elastic
  • Stitch Width Dial: 1
  • Stitch Length Dial: 1-12
  • Stitch Modifier: B
  • Foot: E
• Feather:
  • Stitch Dial: Feather
  • Stitch Width Dial: 1-4
  • Stitch Length Dial: 1-11
  • Stitch Modifier: E
• Fish-Bone:
  • Stitch Dial: Fish-Bone
  • Stitch Width Dial: 4
  • Stitch Length Dial: 11
  • Stitch Modifier: E
• Overedge:
  • Stitch Dial: Overedge
  • Stitch Width Dial: 1
  • Stitch Length Dial: 11
  • Stitch Modifier: C
• Darning:
  • Stitch Dial: Darning
  • Stitch Width Dial: Not Applicable
  • Stitch Length Dial: Not Applicable
  • Stitch Modifier: Red Dot
  • Foot: None
  • Needle Plate: E and F
• Satin:
  • Stitch Dial: Satin
  • Stitch Width Dial: 1-4
  • Stitch Length Dial: Red Zone
  • Stitch Modifier: Red Dot
  • Foot: C
  • Needle Plate: E