JOHN DEERE LX188 (01) PDF MANUAL

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JOHN DEERE LX188 (01) PDF SUMMARY:

What should you do if you find any errors or want to comment on the layout of the manual?

There are postage paid post cards included at the back. Fill out one of the cards and mail it back.

What should you do to recognize safety information?

When you see the safety-alert symbol on your machine or in this manual, be alert to the potential for personal injury. Follow recommended precautions and safe servicing practices.

What signal words are used with the safety-alert symbol?

DANGER, WARNING, or CAUTION.

Where are DANGER or WARNING safety signs located, and where are general precautions listed?

DANGER or WARNING safety signs are located near specific hazards, and general precautions are listed on CAUTION safety signs. CAUTION also calls attention to safety messages in this manual.

What should you do to replace safety signs?

Replace missing or damaged safety signs. See the machine operator’s manual for correct safety sign placement.

What should you do when working around fuel?

Do not smoke or work near heaters or other fire hazards.

Where should flammable fluids be stored?

Store flammable fluids away from fire hazards. Do not incinerate or puncture pressurized containers.

What should you ensure about the machine’s condition?

Make sure the machine is clean of trash, grease, and debris.

What should you do with oily rags?

Do not store oily rags; they can ignite and burn spontaneously.

What should you keep handy in case a fire starts?

Keep a first aid kit and fire extinguisher handy.

What emergency numbers should you keep near your telephone?

Keep emergency numbers for doctors, ambulance service, hospital, and fire department.

How can you prevent battery explosions?

  • Keep sparks, lighted matches, and open flame away from the top of the battery. Battery gas can explode.
  • Never check battery charge by placing a metal object across the posts. Use a volt-meter or hydrometer.
  • Do not charge a frozen battery; it may explode. Warm battery to 16°C (60°F).

How can you prevent acid burns when handling batteries?

  • Filling batteries in a well-ventilated area.
  • Wearing eye protection and rubber gloves.
  • Avoiding breathing fumes when electrolyte is added.
  • Avoiding spilling or dripping electrolyte.
  • Use proper jump start procedure.

What should you do if you spill acid on yourself?

  1. Flush your skin with water.
  2. Apply baking soda or lime to help neutralize the acid.
  3. Flush your eyes with water for 10-15 minutes.
  4. Get medical attention immediately.

What should you do if acid is swallowed?

  1. Drink large amounts of water or milk.
  2. Then drink milk of magnesia, beaten eggs, or vegetable oil.
  3. Get medical attention immediately.

What type of clothing should you wear when servicing machines?

Wear close fitting clothing and safety equipment appropriate to the job.

What should you wear to protect against loud noises?

Wear a suitable hearing protective device such as earmuffs or earplugs to protect against objectionable or uncomfortable loud noises.

What should you avoid wearing when working near machine tools or moving parts?

Do not wear a necktie, scarf, loose clothing, or necklace when you work near machine tools or moving parts. If these items were to get caught, severe injury could result.

What should you remove to prevent electrical shorts and entanglement in moving parts?

Remove rings and other jewelry.

What should you do to use proper tools?

Use tools appropriate to the work. Makeshift tools and procedures can create safety hazards. Use power tools only to loosen threaded parts and fasteners. For loosening and tightening hardware, use the correct size tools. DO NOT use U.S. measurement tools on metric fasteners. Avoid bodily injury caused by slipping wrenches. Use only service parts meeting John Deere specifications.

What should you do before working on the machine?

  1. Lower all equipment to the ground.
  2. Stop the engine and remove the key.
  3. Disconnect the battery ground strap.
  4. Hang a “DO NOT OPERATE” tag in operator station.

How should you support a machine or attachment if you must work on it while lifted?

Securely support the machine or attachment. Do not support the machine on cinder blocks, hollow tiles, or props that may crumble under continuous load. Do not work under a machine that is supported solely by a jack. Follow recommended procedures in this manual.

What should you do before starting a job?

  1. Clean work area and machine.
  2. Make sure you have all necessary tools to do your job.
  3. Have the right parts on hand.
  4. Read all instructions thoroughly; do not attempt shortcuts.

What to consider when using high-pressure washers?

Directing pressurized water at electronic/electrical components or connectors, bearings, hydraulic seals, fuel injection pumps or other sensitive parts and components may cause product malfunctions. Reduce pressure and spray at a 45 to 90 degree angle.

How should you illuminate your work area?

Illuminate your work area adequately but safely. Use a portable safety light for working inside or under the machine. Make sure the bulb is enclosed by a wire cage. The hot filament of an accidentally broken bulb can ignite spilled fuel or oil.

What should you do if it is necessary to run an engine in an enclosed area?

Remove the exhaust fumes from the area with an exhaust pipe extension. If you do not have an exhaust pipe extension, open the doors and get outside air into the area.

What should you do to remove paint before welding or heating?

Do all work outside or in a well ventilated area. Dispose of paint and solvent properly. If you sand or grind paint, avoid breathing the dust. Wear an approved respirator. If you use solvent or paint stripper, remove stripper with soap and water before welding. Remove solvent or paint stripper containers and other flammable material from area. Allow fumes to disperse at least 15 minutes before welding or heating.

What should you avoid when handling components containing asbestos fibers?

Avoid breathing dust that may be generated when handling components containing asbestos fibers. Inhaled asbestos fibers may cause lung cancer.

What should you do when servicing components that may contain asbestos?

Avoid creating dust. Never use compressed air for cleaning. Avoid brushing or grinding material containing asbestos. When servicing, wear an approved respirator. A special vacuum cleaner is recommended to clean asbestos. If not available, apply a mist of oil or water on the material containing asbestos. Keep bystanders away from the area.

What should you do when mounting a tire?

Do not attempt to mount a tire unless you have the proper equipment and experience to perform the job. Always maintain the correct tire pressure. Do not inflate the tires above the recommended pressure. Never weld or heat a wheel and tire assembly. The heat can cause an increase in air pressure resulting in a tire explosion. Welding can structurally weaken or deform the wheel.

What should you use when inflating tires?

When inflating tires, use a clip-on chuck and extension hose long enough to allow you to stand to one side and NOT in front of or over the tire assembly. Use a safety cage if available.

What should you check wheels for?

Check wheels for low pressure, cuts, bubbles, damaged rims or missing lug bolts and nuts.

What should you do to avoid injury from rotating blades, augers and PTO shafts?

Keep hands and feet away while machine is running. Shut off power to service, lubricate or remove mower blades, augers or PTO shafts.

What should you do to service the cooling system safely?

Shut off machine. Only remove filler cap when cool enough to touch with bare hands. Slowly loosen cap to first stop to relieve pressure before removing completely.

What should you do to handle chemical products safely?

Check the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) before you start any job using a hazardous chemical. Then follow procedures and recommended equipment.

What should you do before returning the machine to the customer?

Before returning machine to customer, make sure machine is functioning properly, especially the safety systems. Install all guards and shields.

What should you not do while refueling the machine?

  • Indoors, always fill gas tank outdoors.
  • Machine is near an open flame or sparks.
  • Engine is running, STOP engine.
  • Engine is hot, allow it to cool sufficiently first.
  • Smoking.

How can you help prevent fires when dealing with gasoline?

  • Fill gas tank to bottom of filler neck only.
  • Be sure fill cap is tight after fueling.
  • Clean up any gas spills IMMEDIATELY.
  • Keep machine clean and in good repair–free of excess grease, oil, debris, and faulty or damaged parts.
  • Any storage of machines with gas left in tank should be in an area that is well ventilated to prevent possible igniting of fumes by an open flame or spark, this includes any appliance with a pilot light.

How can you prevent fire or explosion caused by static electric discharge during fueling?

ONLY use a clean, approved POLYETHYLENE PLASTIC fuel container and funnel WITHOUT any metal screen or filter.

What should you not do to avoid engine damage when dealing with gasoline?

  • DO NOT mix oil with gasoline.
  • ONLY use clean, fresh unleaded gasoline.

What is recommended for gasoline storage?

Storage of gasoline in a clean, properly marked (“UNLEADED GASOLINE”) POLYETHYLENE PLASTIC container WITHOUT any metal screen or filter is recommended. DO NOT use de-icers to attempt to remove water from gasoline or depend on fuel filters to remove water from gasoline. Use a water separator installed in the storage tank outlet. BE SURE to properly discard unstable or contaminated gasoline.

What is recommended when storing a unit or gasoline?

It is recommended that you add John Deere Gasoline Conditioner and Stabilizer (TY15977) or an equivalent to the gasoline. BE SURE to follow directions on container and to properly discard empty container.

What should you NOT do regarding break-in oil for gasoline engines in North America?

ONLY use a quality break-in oil in rebuilt or remanufactured engines for the first 5 hours (maximum) of operation. DO NOT use oils with heavier viscosity weights than SAE 5W-30 or oils meeting specifications API SG or SH, these oils will not allow rebuilt or remanufactured engines to break-in properly.

What should you NOT do regarding break-in oil for gasoline engines in Europe?

ONLY use a quality break-in oil in rebuilt or remanufactured engines for the first 5 hours (maximum) of operation. DO NOT use oils with heavier viscosity weights than SAE 5W-30 or oils meeting CCMC Specification G5—these oils will not allow rebuilt or remanufactured engines to break-in properly.

What should you NOT do regarding gear transmission grease in North America?

ONLY use a quality gear grease in this transmission. DO NOT mix any other greases in this transmission. DO NOT use any BIO–GREASE in this transmission.

What should you NOT do regarding grease?

ONLY use a quality grease in this application. DO NOT mix any other greases in this application. DO NOT use any BIO–GREASE in this application.

How should lubricants be stored?

Use clean storage containers to handle all lubricants. Store them in an area protected from dust, moisture, and other contamination. Store drums on their sides. Make sure all containers are properly marked as to their contents. Dispose of all old, used containers and their contents properly.

What should you avoid in general regarding the mixing of lubricants?

Avoid mixing different brands or types of lubricants. Mixing different lubricants can interfere with the proper functioning of these additives and lubricant properties which will downgrade their intended specified performance.

What should you always do regarding oil filters?

Filtration of oils is critical to proper lubrication performance. Always change filters regularly.

What should you NOT do to prevent engine damage regarding gasoline engine coolant?

DO NOT use pure anti-freeze or less than a 50% anti-freeze mixture in the cooling system. DO NOT mix or add any additives/conditioners to the cooling system in Lawn and Grounds Care/Golf and Turf Division equipment. Water used to dilute engine coolant concentrate must be of high quality—clean, clear, potable water (low in chloride and hardness–Table 1) is generally acceptable. DO NOT use salt water. Deionized or distilled water is ideal to use. Coolant that is not mixed to these specified levels and water purity can cause excessive scale, sludge deposits, and increased corrosion potential.

How often should you drain and flush the cooling system and refill with a fresh coolant mixture when using John Deere Pre-Diluted (TY16036) Automobile and Light Duty Engine Service coolants?

Every 36 months or 3,000 hours of operation, whichever comes first.

How often should you drain and flush the cooling system and refill with a fresh coolant mixture when using John Deere Concentrate (TY16034) Automobile and Light Duty Engine Service coolants?

Every 24 months or 2,000 hours of operation, whichever comes first.

What should you do if John Deere Automobile and Light Duty Engine Service coolants are not being used?

Drain, flush, and refill the cooling system according to instructions found on product container or in equipment operator’s manual or technical manual.

What is important to include when ordering parts or submitting a warranty claim?

It is IMPORTANT that the machine product identification number and component serial numbers are included.

What is the function of the lubrication system?

To provide pressurized oil to lubricate internal engine components.

How is the oil pump driven?

The oil pump is driven directly off the crankshaft gear.

How is the lubrication system protected?

The lubrication system is protected by an oil pressure relief valve, low oil pressure switch, and an oil filter with bypass.

What happens if oil pressure exceeds 296 kPa (43 psi)?

The relief valve opens allowing oil to return to sump. Relief valve is not adjustable.

What does the filter contain, and when does it open?

The filter contains a bypass valve which opens if the element becomes plugged to ensure engine lubrication.

What happens if oil pressure is below 28 kPa (4 psi)?

An oil pressure switch mounted in the oil filter manifold turns on a warning light.

What should I check if the engine cranks but will not start or starts hard?

Check for lack of fuel in carburetor, a fouled, defective, or incorrectly gapped spark plug, defective ignition components, a worn starter causing slow cranking rpm, restricted fuel filter or line, a weak or leaking fuel pump, stale or wrong type of fuel.

What should I check if the engine will not stay running, runs rough, or runs erratically?

Check for a restricted air filter, misadjusted choke, throttle, or governor linkage, a worn or contaminated carburetor, leaking carburetor, intake & exhaust manifold, or cylinder head gaskets, low compression from worn parts.

What should I check if the engine backfires (after bang)?

Check for incorrect valve clearance, burned or warped valves and seats, defective valve springs or ACR.

What should I check if the engine surges, or has uneven or uncontrolled rpm?

Check for incorrect engine oil viscosity or level, leaking engine gaskets or seals, a restricted crankcase breather, worn valve guides or seals, worn or broken piston rings, or worn connecting rod or crankshaft bearings.

What should I check if the engine has low power?

Check for clogged cooling fins or air intake screen.

What should I check if the engine has no spark?

Check for corroded or loose battery cables, or a weak battery.

What should I check if the engine floods?

Check for excessive use of choke.

What should I check if the exhaust smoke is black or uses too much fuel?

Check for a clogged air cleaner.

What should I check if the exhaust smoke is blue or has excessive oil consumption?

Check for worn valve stems and valve guides.

What should I check if the engine has low oil pressure?

Check for a restricted engine oil filter.

What should I check if there is fuel in the oil?

Check for a faulty fuel pump.

What should I check if the engine overheats?

Check for excessive carbon deposit in engine.

What should I check if there is excessive engine noise or vibration?

Check the connecting rod or crankshaft bearings for wear.

What should I do if the engine is hard to start or will not start?

Check for plugged fuel or air passages, float level, carburetor setting, stale fuel, no fuel in the tank, closed shutoff valve, clogged fuel filter, closed fuel shutoff solenoid, plugged air vent hole in tank cap, plugged fuel line, faulty fuel pump, low crankcase vacuum.

How do I check for spark?

Remove the spark plug and check for spark by cranking the engine while having the plug grounded against the engine block. Install a spare plug to simulate actual cranking conditions.

What should I check if the engine malfunctions at low speed?

Check for passages in carburetor plugged, plugged fuel filter, plugged vent, stale fuel, loose flange nuts, damaged gasket, warped flange, misadjusted valve, worn camshaft lobes/push rods, or incorrect valve timing.

What should I do if unusual smoke is emitted out of the muffler?

Gradually open the throttle valve by hand. Check for plugged air filter and deposits in exhaust port.

What should I do if the engine speed drops or the engine stalls at a certain position?

Check for misadjusted carburetor or float.

What should I do if air is drawn through carburetor flange?

Tighten the flange.

What should I do if valve clearance is not normal?

Adjust the valves.

What should I do if alignment of timing gear marks is not correct?

Correct the timing.

What should I do if the engine runs erratically?

Check for dust or water in the fuel line or fuel filter, air or vapor lock in the fuel line, plugged air vent in fuel tank cap, plugged air/fuel passages in carburetor, too little opening of carburetor pilot air-screw, stale fuel, incorrect governor linkage adjustment, or a faulty governor spring.

What should I do if oil consumption is excessive?

Check for a plugged oil ring groove, high oil level, worn valve stems and valve guides, oil leakage along governor shaft, leaking oil seals, head gasket, or drain plug, clogged breather valve, plugged drain-back hole in tappet chamber, or incorrect oil viscosity.

What should I do if the engine has low power?

Adjust the load. Check for excessive engine load, carburetor not properly adjusted (too lean), dirty or clogged air intake screen, shroud and engine fins, carbon deposit in combustion chamber, incorrect oil level, too much or too little oil in crankcase, excessively contaminated lubricating oil/filter, or a faulty oil pump.

What should I do if fuel consumption is excessive?

Check for a leak in the fuel system.

What should I do if the carburetor float or pilot air screw is not properly adjusted?

Adjust the carburetor float or pilot air screw.

What should I do if the air cleaner is clogged?

Clean the air cleaner.

What should I do if the fast idle speed is excessive (too high)?

Adjust the fast idle speed.

What should I do if the choke valve is not fully open?

Correct the choke valve.

How to troubleshoot if the starter motor does not rotate?

Check for a faulty battery, leads, or connections; melted fuse; faulty key switch or solenoid. If there is a click sound from the solenoid, the battery may be weak or there may be faulty leads or connections.

How to troubleshoot if the starter motor rotates slowly?

Check for a weak battery, faulty leads or connections (solenoid to motor), or a faulty solenoid or starter motor. The engine itself may be faulty.

How to troubleshoot if the starter motor rotates but cannot crank the engine?

Check for worn pinion or ring gear, incorrect starter alignment, or a faulty bendix. See if the pinion meshes with the ring gear; if not, replace the components or correct the alignment.

How to troubleshoot if the starter motor does not stop with the key switch in RUN or OFF position?

Check for a faulty key switch or solenoid, faulty pinion or ring gear, incorrect starter alignment, or faulty pinion return mechanism. Attempt to stop the starter with the key switch; if it doesn’t stop, replace components or correct the alignment.

How do I test the throttle cable?

Move throttle control lever from SLOW idle to FAST idle position. A solid “detent” should be felt to assure that the control lever is in the FAST idle position. Check alignment holes in control panel and throttle arm. They MUST be in visual alignment. Move throttle control lever into CHOKE position, then back into FAST idle position. Again, holes in control panel and throttle arm MUST be aligned.

How do I adjust the throttle cable?

Move throttle control lever to FAST idle position. Loosen clamp screw. Align hole in throttle arm with hole in control panel. Insert a 6 mm (15/64 in.) drill bit or 6 x 30 mm flat head pin (45M7036) through holes to keep throttle arm from moving. Be sure drill bit or flat head pin is perpendicular to the control panel. Pull throttle cable up (arrow) and tighten screw. Remove drill bit. Repeat test procedure. Move throttle control lever through full range several times to be sure linkage is not binding.

How do I test the choke plate?

Check and adjust throttle cable. Move throttle control lever to full CHOKE position. Try to move choke rod toward carburetor (arrow). Choke rod should NOT move. If choke rod moves forward, the choke plate is not fully closed. Move throttle control lever to FAST idle position. Check holes in control panel and throttle arm. They MUST be in visual alignment. Check for gap between adjustment screw and choke arm. Try to move choke rod toward control panel (arrow). Choke rod should NOT move. If choke rod moves rearward, the choke plate is not fully open.

How do I adjust the choke plate?

Move throttle control lever to full CHOKE position. Push and hold choke rod forward (arrow) to close choke plate. Insert a screwdriver through slot in control panel. Turn adjustment screw (on backside of control panel) clockwise until it is tight against choke arm. Move throttle control lever to FAST idle position. Check for gap between screw and choke arm. Amount of gap should be approximately 0.25—3.0 mm (0.01—0.12 in.).

How do I perform the governor adjustment?

Adjust throttle cable and choke plate before adjusting governor linkage. Move throttle lever to FAST idle position. Loosen nut. Hold governor arm in the full clockwise position (toward control panel). Turn the governor shaft clockwise to the end of its travel. Hold governor shaft and tighten nut to specifications. Move throttle lever through full range to be sure linkage is not binding.

How do I adjust the fast idle speed?

Park machine on level surface. Turn key switch OFF. Raise engine hood. Start and run engine at MEDIUM idle for 5 minutes to warm engine to normal operating temperature. Move throttle control lever to FAST idle position. Align hole in throttle arm with hole in throttle control panel. Insert a 6.0 mm (15/64 in.) drill bit or 6 x 30 mm flat head pin (45M7036) through holes to keep throttle arm from moving. Be sure bit or flat head pin are perpendicular to the throttle control panel. Use a JT07270 Digital Pulse Tachometer at spark plug wire to set engine FAST idle speed at 3350 ± 100 rpm.

How do I adjust the slow idle speed for NON CARB/EPA engines?

Park machine on level surface. Turn key switch OFF. Remove engine hood. Turn SLOW idle mixture screw clockwise until lightly seated, then turn counterclockwise 1-3/8 turns (FC420V) or 1-1/2 turns (FC540V). Put throttle lever in SLOW idle position and turn throttle control arm SLOW idle stop screw counterclockwise until it clears the throttle control panel by one full turn. Start and run engine at MEDIUM idle for five minutes to warm engine to normal operating temperature. Move throttle control lever to SLOW idle position. Use a JT07270 Digital Pulse Tachometer at the spark plug wire to check engine rpm. Adjust carburetor SLOW idle stop screw until SLOW idle speed is 1400 rpm, removing any governor action. Turn SLOW idle mixture screw clockwise until engine speed drops, note position. Turn screw counterclockwise until engine speed increases and drops again, note position. Turn SLOW idle mixture screw to midway between drop points, then turn screw counterclockwise an additional 1/4 turn (FC420V) or 1/8 turn (FC540V). Readjust carburetor SLOW idle stop screw to set carburetor SLOW idle speed at 1450 ± 75 rpm. Adjust throttle control arm SLOW idle stop screw to set the throttle SLOW idle speed at 1550 ± 75 rpm (100 rpm above carburetor SLOW idle setting).

How do I adjust the slow idle speed for CARB/EPA engines?

Park machine on level surface. Turn key switch OFF. Remove engine hood. Use screwdriver to carefully remove black limiter from SLOW idle mixture screw. Turn flats of SLOW idle mixture screw clockwise until lightly seated, then turn counterclockwise to following specifications: FC420V–ES10 = 1 7/16 Turns, FC540V–ES15 = 1 5/8 Turns. Put throttle lever in SLOW idle position and turn throttle control arm SLOW idle stop screw counterclockwise until it clears the throttle control panel by two turns. Start and run engine at MEDIUM idle for five minutes to warm engine to normal operating temperature. Move throttle control lever to SLOW idle position. Use a JT07270 Digital Pulse Tachometer at the spark plug wire to check engine rpm. Adjust carburetor SLOW idle stop screw until SLOW idle speed is 1400 rpm, removing any governor action. Turn SLOW idle mixture screw clockwise until engine speed drops, note position. Turn screw counterclockwise until engine speed increases and drops again, note position. Turn SLOW idle mixture screw to midway between drop points. Without moving screw, carefully install black limiter on SLOW idle mixture screw so stops are centered on carburetor housing limiter stop tab. Now SLOW idle mixture screw can be fine-tuned ONLY to limits allowed by black limiter cap. Adjust carburetor SLOW idle stop screw to set carburetor SLOW idle speed at 1450 ± 75 rpm. Turn throttle control arm SLOW idle stop screw to set the SLOW idle speed at 1550 ± 75 rpm, (100 rpm above carburetor SLOW idle speed). Install front engine shroud (FC540V only).

How do I perform a cylinder compression pressure test?

Park machine on level surface and turn key switch OFF. Raise or remove (optional) engine hood. Remove spark plug and ground spark plug lead to engine using JDM-74A-5 Ignition Test Plug. Install JDM59 Compression Gauge. Move throttle control lever to FAST idle position—throttle and choke plates must be fully open to obtain an accurate reading. Crank engine until gauge needle settles out at its highest position. Record pressure reading. Minimum compression should be 483 kPa (71 psi).

How do I test and adjust valve clearance?

Park machine on level surface. Turn key switch OFF. Allow engine to cool. Move transaxle shift lever or forward/reverse pedals to NEUTRAL position. Engage park brake. Raise engine hood. Remove and ground spark plug wire. Remove spark plug. Remove valve cover. Turn crankshaft until piston, visible in spark plug hole, is at Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke (both intake and exhaust valves will be closed). Use a blade-type feeler gauge to measure valve clearance. Valve clearance should be 0.15 mm (0.006 in.). If valve clearance does not meet specifications, loosen the jam nut. Turn adjustment screw to adjust valve clearance to specifications. Hold screw and tighten nut to specifications. Check clearance again.

How do I test the automatic compression release (ACR)?

Immediately after adjusting valves, while rocker arm cover and spark plug are removed, rotate crankshaft slowly to observe ACR operation. The exhaust valve must open (depress) briefly just after the intake valve closes. Use a dial indicator to measure exhaust valve ACR movement. Minimum exhaust valve ACR movement should be 0.25 mm (0.010 in.).

How do I test crankcase vacuum?

JT05697 U-Tube Manometer Test Kit—Park machine on level surface. Raise engine hood and remove dipstick. Install appropriate size rubber plug in dipstick tube. Insert barbed fitting in rubber plug and connect clear line to barbed fitting. Align ruler “zero” markings with top of water level in u-tube. Start and run engine at FAST idle. Connect clear line to open U-Tube Manometer spigot. Record crankcase vacuum reading. Manometer should show a minimum vacuum of 15 cm (6 in.) of water movement. Run engine at SLOW idle. Disconnect clear line from open manometer spigot. Turn engine OFF. Remove plug from dipstick tube and install dipstick.

JT03503 Crankcase Vacuum Test Kit—Repeat Steps 1–4 in JT05697 test procedure. Hold finger over rubber plug hole to keep oil from spraying out. Start engine and run at FAST idle. Connect gauge, clear line, and barbed fitting to rubber plug. Record crankcase vacuum reading. Gauge should show a minimum vacuum of 15 cm (6 in.) of water movement. Disconnect barbed fitting, clear line, and gauge from rubber plug while engine is running at FAST idle. Hold finger over rubber plug hole to keep oil from spraying out. Move throttle to SLOW idle and turn engine OFF. Remove rubber plug and install dipstick.

How do I perform an engine oil pressure test?

Park machine on level surface. Turn key switch OFF. Allow engine to cool. Move transaxle shift lever or forward/reverse pedals to NEUTRAL position. Engage park brake. Raise engine hood. Check engine oil level, bring level to full mark. Disconnect oil pressure switch wiring lead and remove oil pressure switch. Install JT03338 90° Elbow Fitting, JT03017 Hose Assembly and JT03344 Pressure Gauge Assembly. Monitor oil pressure while cranking engine. If no or very low oil pressure is present, discontinue cranking engine. Determine and correct cause before running engine. Start and run engine at MEDIUM idle for five minutes to heat engine oil to normal operating temperature. Run engine at FAST idle (3350 ± 100 rpm), then record oil pressure reading. Oil pressure should read a minimum of 240 kPa (35 psi). Run engine at SLOW idle (1650 ± 75 rpm), then record oil pressure reading. Oil pressure should be a minimum of 28 kPa (4 psi).

How do I perform fuel pump tests?

Park machine on level surface. Turn key switch OFF. Move transaxle shift lever or forward/reverse pedals to NEUTRAL position. Engage park brake. Raise engine hood. Make sure fuel tank is at least 1/4 full with fresh fuel. Start engine and run at SLOW idle (1650 ± 75 rpm) for one minute to fill carburetor with fuel. Stop the engine. Disconnect and plug fuel pump outlet hose. Connect JDG356 Pressure Gauge hose to fuel pump outlet. Start and run engine at FAST idle (3350 ±100 rpm) for 15 seconds. Minimum pressure should be 6.12 kPa (0.90 psi). Stop engine. Remove pressure gauge and connect fuel pump outlet hose to fuel pump. Disconnect fuel pump outlet hose from carburetor and place it in graduated container. Start and run engine at FAST idle (3350 ±100 rpm) for 15 seconds, then stop engine and record container measurement. Minimum flow should be 55 mL/15 seconds (1.8 oz./15 seconds) for FC420V or 65 mL/15 seconds (2.2 oz./15 seconds) for FC540V.

How do I perform a spark test?

Park machine on level surface. Turn key switch OFF. Move transaxle shift lever or forward/reverse pedals to NEUTRAL position. Engage park brake. Disengage PTO. Raise engine hood. Disconnect high tension lead from spark plug. Connect D-05351ST Spark Tester to spark plug. Connect high tension lead to Spark Tester. Adjust spark tester gap to 4.2 mm (0.166 in.) (4 turns) with adjustment screw. Move key switch to RUN position. Spin engine with starter and watch spark at Spark Tester. If engine will start, watch spark with engine running. A steady, strong, blue spark should be observed.

How do I perform a spark plug gap adjustment?

Park machine on level surface. Turn key switch OFF. Move transaxle shift lever or forward/reverse pedals to NEUTRAL position. Engage park brake. Remove spark plug. Scrap or wire brush deposits from spark plug. Inspect spark plug for: Cracked porcelain and Pitted or damaged electrodes. Check spark plug gap using a wire feeler gauge. Set gap to 0.76 mm (0.030 in.). Install and tighten spark plug to 20 N•m (177 lb-in.).

How do I perform a magneto ignition coil resistance test ENDING ENGINE SERIAL NUMBERS: FC420V-DS10 (FC420V —B50632) FC540V-DS15 (FC540V —A00384)?

Measure resistance between wiring lead terminal and coil terminal. If resistance is not within 0.48— 0.72 ohms, replace magneto ignition coil. Measure resistance between spark plug cap terminal and coil terminal. If resistance is not within 10.9—16.3 K ohms, replace magneto ignition coil.

How do I perform an ignitor module test ENDING ENGINE SERIAL NUMBERS: FC420V-DS10 (FC420V —B50632) FC540V-DS15 (FC540V —A00384)?

Be sure magneto ignition coil is good before proceeding with Step 2; otherwise, replacement ignitor module may be damaged. Inspect and clean ignitor module terminal and wiring lead spade connector. Check that ignitor module body is properly grounded. Start engine.

How do I perform a magneto ignition coil/ignitor module resistance test BEGINNING ENGINE SERIAL NUMBERS: FC420V-DS10 (FC420VB50633— ) FC540V-DS15 (FC540VA00385— )?

Measure resistance between wiring lead terminal and core. If resistance is not within 0.48—0.72 ohms, replace magneto ignition coil/ignitor module. Measure resistance between spark plug cap terminal and coil terminal. If resistance is not within 8.7—13.1 K ohms, replace magneto ignition coil/ignitor module.

How do I service the air cleaner?

Remove and disassemble air cleaner. Wash foam element in detergent and warm water. Rinse element thoroughly to remove all traces of detergent. Squeeze out excess water—DO NOT wring out element. Let element air dry. Apply 12—15 drops of clean engine oil to foam element. Squeeze out excess oil. Gently tap paper element to remove dust. Inspect paper element.

What should I inspect the paper element for?

The element is still usable if you can see light through it and the element appears clean. Replace if oily, dirty, or damaged in any way.

What should I do when cleaning/inspecting/rebuilding the carburetor?

Remove rubber and plastic parts from carburetor. Soak all carburetor metal parts in a carburetor cleaning solution for 1/2 hour maximum. Rinse carburetor parts in warm water to neutralize corrosive action of cleaner on aluminum. Rinse carburetor parts in warm water and dry with compressed air. Do not use rags or paper to dry parts; lint can plug holes and passages in carburetor. Inspect all parts for wear or damage. Replace parts as necessary.

How do I inspect/replace the breather?

Remove valve cover. Measure air gap between reed valve and valve seat at valve tip. Air gap specification is 1—2 mm (0.040—0.080 in.). Replace if reed valve gap exceeds specifications. Remove breather valve assembly. Inspect breather valve for sticking, binding, cracks or distortion. Replace breather valve if worn or damaged. Inspect valve seating surface. Surface must be free of nicks or burrs.

How do I perform flywheel screen adjustment?

Adjust gap between bottom edge of screen and blower housing using spacers. Minimum gap is 1.5 mm (0.059 in.). Tighten screen cap screws to 6 N•m (53 lb-in.).

How do I inspect rocker arm assembly?

Measure outer diameter of rocker arm shaft. Replace if shaft diameter measures less than 12.94 mm (0.509 in.). Measure inside diameter of rocker arm bearing. Replace bearing if inside diameter is greater than 13.07 mm (0.515 in.). Inspect push rod for bend using V-blocks and a dial indicator. Turn rod slowly and read variation on indicator. Replace if variation is greater than 0.30 mm (0.012 in.).

How do I disassemble/assemble the cylinder head and valves?

Compress intake valve spring with JDM70 Valve Spring Compressor and remove collet halves. Remove spring retainer and spring. Remove exhaust valve rotator with a magnet. Support exhaust valve from below and press down on spring retainer. Remove retainer, spring and valves. If necessary to replace stem seal, remove with screwdriver.

How do I inspect the cylinder head?

Remove carbon deposits from combustion chamber and gasket surface using SCOTCH-BRITE abrasive pads or an equivalent. Clean head with a suitable solvent and dry with compressed air. Inspect head for cracks or broken cooling fins. Inspect gasket surface for burrs and nicks. Inspect head gasket for burns and traces of gas leakage. Replace if necessary. Check that oil drainback passages are not plugged. Put cylinder head on a surface plate. Check for distortion at several points around the head using a feeler gauge. Replace head if distortion is more than 0.05 mm (0.002 in.).

How do I inspect valve guides?

Clean inside of valve guides with valve guide cleaner. Measure inside diameter of valve guide bushings. Replace bushing if inside diameter is greater than 7.015 mm (0.2762 in.)—FC420V or 7.07 mm (0.278 in.)—FC540V.

How do I inspect valve seats?

If valve seats are loose, warped or distorted beyond reconditioning, replace cylinder head. Pitted or worn seats can be re-faced using a seat cutter. Check valve seating pattern for correct width and evenness all around. If valve seats width is not within 1.10—1.46 mm (0.043—0.057 in.), recondition valve seat. Lap valve after reconditioning with lapping compound and recheck valve seating surface for proper width and evenness of seating pattern.

How do I inspect valve springs?

Inspect spring for pitting, rust, and burrs. Replace if necessary. Measure spring free length. Replace spring if measurement is less than 37.50 mm (1.476 in.).

How do I inspect intake and exhaust valves?

Remove carbon from valve head, face, and stem with a power-operated wire brush. Be sure carbon is removed, not merely burnished. Inspect valve head, face, and stems for defects. Replace if necessary. Replace warped valves or valves with less than 0.60 mm (0.024 in.) margin. Valve stem ends should be ground square before checking valve to tappet clearance. Check valve stem for bend using V-blocks and a dial indicator. Turn valve slowly and read variation on indicator. Replace if variation is greater than 0.03 mm (0.001 in.).

How do I replace valve guides?

Place cylinder head so that valve seats face up. Drive valve guide out through valve chamber using JDG504 Valve Guide Driver. Clean carbon deposits from valve guide port. Turn cylinder head over so that valve seats face down. Install new guide using JDG504 Valve Guide Driver. Drive guide to an installation depth of 12 ±0.1 mm (0.472 ±0.004 in.) for FC420V or 9.5 ±0.1 mm (0.370 ±0.004 in.) for FC540V. Finish reaming valve guides with Stanisol or kerosene lubricant and a 7 mm (0.2756 in.) valve guide reamer. Turn reamer clockwise. Finished valve guide diameter should be 7.00—7.02 mm (0.275—2.76 in.).

How do I analyze valves?

Lead deposits on the intake valve are caused by exhaust gas leakage past the valve. This indicates that the valve is not seating properly. Grind intake valve and re-face seat to correct this condition. Valve stem corrosion is caused by moisture in the engine. Corroded or pitted valves collect deposits and may cause sticking valves. Replace badly corroded or pitted valves.

How do I recondition valve seats?

Inspect valve seats for damage. If seats are loose, warped or distorted beyond reconditioning, replace cylinder head. Pitted or worn seats can be re-faced using a seat cutter. To recondition seat, cut at 45° angle to clean up seat. Cut narrowing angle at 30°. Finish cut at 45° to establish valve seating surface width. Cut valve seating surface as close as possible to specifications. Lap valves to seats after re-facing. Center valve seat on the valve face. Check seat for good contact using Prussian Blue Compound.

How do I lap valves?

Apply a small amount of fine lapping compound to face of valve. Grip top of valve with a vacuum cup tool and turn valve to lap valve to seat. Lift valve from seat every 8 to 10 strokes. Lap until a uniform ring appears around the surface of the valve face. Wash all parts in solvent to remove lapping compound. Dry parts. Check position of lap mark on valve face. Lap mark must be on or near the center of valve face. Apply a light coat of clean engine oil to seat and valve to prevent rusting.

How do I inspect the piston?

Remove all deposits from the piston. Clean carbon from piston ring grooves with a ring groove cleaner. Check that all oil return passages in grooves are open. Inspect piston for scoring or fractures. Replace piston if damaged. Using a new piston ring and feeler gauge, check ring grooves for wear, at several points around piston. Replace piston if clearance is greater than specifications.

How do I analyze piston ring wear?

Rings of the wrong size or rings having improper end gaps will not conform to the shape of the cylinder. This results in high oil consumption and excessive blow-by. Ring end gaps should be staggered on the piston during installation. End gaps in alignment can also cause oil consumption and blow-by.

How do I analyze piston wear?

Detonation is abnormal combustion causing excessive temperature and pressure in the combustion chamber. Commonly called knock, spark knock, or timing knock, detonation occurs as the compressed fuel-air mixture ignites spontaneously to interrupt the normal ignition. Pre-ignition is the igniting of the fuel-air mixture prior to regular ignition spark. Pre-ignition causes shock, resulting in pings, vibration, detonation and power loss. Severe damage to piston, rings and valves results from pre-ignition.

How do I check and adjust camshaft axial play?

With gasket installed on crankcase, measure from gasket surface to cam gear timing flange. Record this measurement. Measure from crankcase cover mounting face to camshaft bearing end. Record this measurement. Locate measurement on shim table. Follow lines to where recorded measurements intersect. Choose the next smaller shim from table. Install shim to cam gear timing flange, with chamfered side of shim toward cam gear.

How do I inspect the camshaft?

Inspect camshaft for worn or broken teeth. Measure cylinder block side journal, crankcase cover side journal and cam lobe height. Replace camshaft and tappets if any measurement is less than specifications. Inspect Automatic Compression Release (ACR) for damage. Inspect spring for wear or damage. Replace if necessary. Move weights by hand to check for proper operation. Check that tab sits slightly above cam lobe when weights are released. Tab should drop below cam when weights are engaged. Measure camshaft bearings in cylinder block. Replace block if inside diameter is greater than 20.076 mm (0.7904 in.)—FC420V or 21.076 mm (0.8298 in.)—FC540V. Measure camshaft bearings in crankcase cover. Replace cover if inside diameter is greater than 21.076 mm (0.8298 in.)—both engines.

How do I inspect reciprocating balancer?

Clean and inspect all parts for obvious wear or damage. Replace parts as necessary. Measure link rod journal diameters on crankshaft. Replace crankshaft if diameters are less than specifications. Measure inside diameter of link rod bearings. Replace link rod if either bearing is greater than specifications. Install large end bearing from opposite side of oil grooves with seam at right angle to lengthwise center line. Measure support shaft bearing diameter. Replace bearing if measurement is greater than 26.097 mm (1.0274 in.). Inspect wrist pins for wear or damage. Measure support shaft diameter. Replace shaft if diameter is less than 25.927 mm (1.0208 in.).

How do I perform a crankshaft end play test?

Park machine on level surface. Turn key switch OFF. Move transaxle shift lever or forward/reverse pedals to NEUTRAL position. Engage park brake. Remove mower deck. Remove PTO clutch assembly. Measure end play using a dial indicator. Move crankshaft in and out. Crankshaft end play specification is 0.09—0.22 mm (0.004—0.009 in.).

How do I inspect crankshaft and main bearings?

Analyze crankshaft and connecting rod wear. Clean and inspect crankshaft. Replace if scratched, damaged or worn beyond specifications. Place crankshaft into an alignment jig and slowly rotate crankshaft. Use dial indicators to measure maximum Total Indicated Runout (TIR). If runout exceeds 0.05 mm (0.002 in.), replace crankshaft. Measure main bearing journal diameters. Replace crankshaft if either journal O.D. is less than specifications.

How do I replace crankshaft oil seals?

Remove crankcase cover. Remove worn or damaged seal using a screwdriver. DO NOT damage bore surfaces. Pack lithium based grease inside lips of seals. Install seal with spring-held seal lip toward inside of engine using appropriate driver set. Press in seal to specification. Remove crankshaft. Remove worn or damaged seal using a screwdriver. DO NOT damage bore surfaces. Pack lithium based grease inside lips of seals. Install seal with spring-held seal lip toward inside of engine using seal and driver set. Press in seal to specification.

How do I analyze crankshaft and connecting rod wear?

Check connecting rod and cap for damage or unusual wear patterns. Lack of lubrication or improper lubrication can cause the connecting rod and cap to seize the crankshaft, the connecting rod and piston may both break causing other internal damage. Inspect block carefully before rebuilding engine.

How do I hone the cylinder?

  1. Align center of bore to drill press center.
  2. Lower and raise hone until end extends 20—25 mm (0.75—1.0 in.) past ends of cylinder.
  3. Adjust hone stones until they contact narrowest point of cylinder walls.
  4. Coat inside of cylinder with honing oil. Turn hone by hand and adjust if too tight.
  5. Run drill press between 200—250 rpm and move hone up and down in cylinder approximately 20 times per minute.
  6. Stop press and check cylinder diameter.
  7. Check bore for size, taper, and out-of-round.
  8. If cylinder bores exceed wear limit, rebore cylinder or replace block.
  9. Hone the cylinder an additional 0.007—0.009 mm (0.0003—0.0004 in.) for final bore specifications to allow for 0.020 mm (0.0008 in.) shrinkage when cylinder cools.

NOTE: Measure bore when cylinder is cool.

NOTE: Finish should not be smooth, but should have a 40—60° cross-hatch pattern.

How should I clean cylinder bores?

Clean cylinder walls using clean white rags and water until white rags show no discoloration.

IMPORTANT: Do not use gasoline, kerosene, or commercial solvents to clean cylinder bores because solvents will not remove all abrasives from cylinder walls.

What is the final step after cleaning the cylinder?

  1. Dry cylinder.
  2. Apply a light coat of clean engine oil.

How do I disassemble the oil pump?

  1. Remove the crankcase cover.
  2. Remove the oil pump gear.

IMPORTANT: Remove rotor shaft and oil pump cover to avoid damaging governor.

  1. Remove the oil pump assembly.
  2. Remove the relief spring and ball.
  3. Inspect all parts for wear or damage.

How do I assemble the oil pump?

Assembly is done in the reverse order of disassembly.

  • Install outer rotor with dimple facing away from crankcase cover.
  • Install oil pump gear with recess facing away from crankcase cover.

What are the torque specifications for the oil pump?

Gear, Relief Spring, and Cover Cap Screws: 17 N•m (150 lb-in.)

What should I inspect the oil pump for?

  1. Inspect all parts for wear or damage and replace parts as necessary.
  2. Measure rotor shaft diameter and replace if shaft O.D. is less than specifications.
  3. Measure rotor shaft bearing in oil pump cover. Replace cover if bearing I.D. is greater than 12.76 mm (0.5024 in.).
  4. Measure rotor shaft bearing in crankcase cover. Replace cover if bearing I.D. is greater than specifications.
  5. Measure thickness of outer rotor. Replace if thickness is less than specifications.
  6. Measure outside diameter of outer rotor. Replace both outer rotor and shaft if O.D. is less than specifications.
  7. Measure inside diameter of rotor bearing. Replace crankcase cover if I.D is greater than specifications.
  8. Measure outer rotor bearing housing depth. If depth is greater than specifications, replace oil pump housing (FC420V) or crankcase cover (FC540V).
  9. Measure relief valve spring. Replace spring if free length is less than 19.00 mm (0.7480 in.).

What should I do when inspecting/replacing the governor?

  1. Remove crankcase cover.

IMPORTANT: Do not remove governor assembly or shaft unless damaged because removal damages the gear assembly and the entire assembly must be replaced.

  1. Inspect governor for wear or damage. Replace entire assembly only when necessary.
  2. Use two screwdrivers to pry governor assembly from shaft, being careful not to damage crankcase sealing surfaces.
  3. If shaft is removed, press shaft back into block until it protrudes 32.2—32.8 mm (1.267—1.291 in.) above surface of opening.
  4. Install sleeve into governor flyweights before gear assembly is installed onto shaft.
  5. Install washer and governor assembly onto shaft.
  6. Push down on assembly until it snaps into place.
  7. Check assembly for freedom of movement.

What should I do when inspecting/replacing the governor shaft?

NOTE: It is not necessary to remove governor shaft unless damaged.

  1. Remove crankshaft cover.
  2. Inspect shaft for wear or damage. Replace entire assembly only when necessary.

To replace governor shaft:

  1. Scribe a mark across shaft and lever to aid in installation.
  2. Loosen nut on lever.
  3. Remove retaining pin, governor shaft and washer.
  4. Install washer, shaft and retaining pin.
  5. Align marks made during removal.
  6. Tighten nut to 7.8 N•m (69 lb-in.).

How do I remove/install the stator?

  1. Remove flywheel.
  2. Disconnect stator lead.
  3. Remove screws and stator.

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

  • Tighten stator cap screws to specification.

How do I remove/install the magneto ignition coil ending engine serial numbers: (FC420V —B50632) (FC540V —A00384)?

  1. Remove blower housing.
  2. Disconnect spark plug high tension lead from plug.
  3. Disconnect wiring lead.
  4. Remove cap screws and magneto ignition coil.
  5. Test magneto ignition coil resistance.

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

  • Adjust coil air gap.
  • Tighten cap screws to specification.

How do I adjust the air gap when removing/installing the magneto ignition coil ending engine serial numbers: (FC420V —B50632) (FC540V —A00384)?

  1. Turn flywheel magnet away from coil.
  2. Loosen screws.
  3. Insert a 0.30 mm (0.012 in.) feeler gauge between flywheel and both coil terminals.
  4. Push coil against feeler gauge and flywheel.
  5. Hold coil motionless and tighten screws to specification.
  6. Turn flywheel to remove feeler gauge.

How do I replace the ignitor module ending engine serial numbers: (FC420V —B50632) (FC540V —A00384)?

NOTE: There is no way to test the ignitor module, if it is suspect, replace it with a known good ignitor module.

  1. Disconnect wiring connector.
  2. Remove cap screw to replace ignitor module.

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

How do I remove/install the magneto ignition coil/ignitor module beginning engine serial numbers: (FC420VB50633— ) (FC540VA00385— )?

NOTE: Magneto ignition coil/ignitor module will not retro-fit on earlier engines due to the reversed polarity of the flywheel magnet.

  1. Remove blower housing.
  2. Disconnect spark plug high tension lead from plug.
  3. Turn flywheel so magnet is clear of ignition coil.
  4. Disconnect wiring lead.
  5. Remove cap screws and ignition coil.
  6. Test ignition coil resistance.

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

  • Adjust armature air gap.

How do I adjust the air gap when removing/installing the magneto ignition coil/ignitor module beginning engine serial numbers: (FC420VB50633— ) (FC540VA00385— )?

  1. Turn flywheel magnet away from ignition coil.
  2. Loosen screws.
  3. Insert a 0.30 mm (0.012 in.) feeler gauge between flywheel and both ignition coil terminals.
  4. Push ignition coil against feeler gauge and flywheel and tighten screws to specification.
  5. Turn flywheel to remove feeler gauge.

How do I remove/install the starter?

  1. Disconnect negative (–) battery cable at the battery.
  2. Remove switch connector and positive (+) battery cable.
  3. Remove two cap screws and starter.

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

  • Clean starter motor and engine mounting flange to ensure proper ground contact.
  • Tighten cap screws to specification.

How do I test the starter no-load amperage draw and RPM bench?

Reason: To determine if the starter is binding or has excessive amperage draw under no-load.

Procedure:

IMPORTANT: Complete this test in 20 seconds or less to prevent starter damage.

NOTE: Check that battery is fully charged and of proper size to ensure accuracy of test.

  1. Remove starter from engine and clamp in bench vise.
  2. Connect jumper cables to a 12-volt battery.
  3. Connect positive (+) cable to solenoid battery terminal.
  4. Connect negative (−) cable to starter body.
  5. Attach current gun to positive (+) cable.
  6. Use a jumper wire to briefly connect solenoid battery terminal to solenoid switch terminal, which should engage and run the starter.
  7. Read and record starter amperage and rpm.

Results:

  • If solenoid “clicks” or chatters and motor does not turn, replace solenoid.
  • If pinion gear engages and motor doesn’t turn, repair or replace starter motor.
  • If starter engages and runs, but amperage is more than 50 amps at 6000 rpm, repair or replace starter.
  • If free-running rpm is less than 6000 rpm, repair or replace starter.

NOTE: Starter repair is limited to brushes, end caps, and starter drive. Fields in starter are permanent magnets and are not serviceable. If housing or armature are damaged, replace starter.

How do I disassemble/assemble the starter?

  1. Separate pinion stopper halves to remove retaining clip to remove starter drive.
  2. Inspect parts for wear or damage and replace parts as necessary.
  3. Test solenoid, starter armature and brushes.

Assembly is done in the reverse order of disassembly.

  • Apply a very light coating of multipurpose grease to:

    • Sliding surfaces of armature and solenoid shift lever pivots.
    • Armature shaft spline.
    • Points where shaft contacts cover.

  • Always replace retaining clip with new one.

How do I test the solenoid?

  1. With plunger extended, check solenoid battery and starter terminals for continuity—there should be no continuity.
  2. Depress plunger—there should be continuity when plunger is fully depressed.
  3. Test for open circuits between starter terminal and switch terminal—there should be no continuity.
  4. Test for open circuits between switch terminal and body—there should be no continuity.

Results:

  • If solenoid fails any of above tests, it is defective and must be replaced.

How do I measure the brushes?

  1. Measure brush lengths. If any one brush length is less than 6.0 mm (0.240 in.) for FC420V or 10.5 mm (0.413 in.) for FC540V, ALL brushes must be soldered to their leads.
  2. Inspect brush springs for wear or damage.

Results:

  • If one brush is bad, replace ALL brushes.
  • If on spring is bad, replace ALL springs.

How do I test the brushes and field coil housing assembly?

  1. Test for continuity between positive brushes—there should be continuity between positive brushes.
  2. Test for continuity between negative brushes (field coil) and bare metal area of housing—there should be continuity between negative brushes and bare metal area.
  3. Test for continuity between positive brushes and bare metal area of housing—there should be no continuity between positive brushes and bare metal area of the housing.

Results:

  • If assembly fails any of above tests, it is defective and must be replaced.

How do I test the starter armature?

IMPORTANT: Do not clean armature with solvent because it can damage insulation on windings. Use only mineral spirits and a brush.

  1. Test for short circuits by rotating armature on a growler while holding a hacksaw blade or steel strip on armature.
  2. Watch Hacksaw blade, it will vibrate in areas of any short circuits.

NOTE: A shorted circuit most often occurs because of copper dust or filings between two commutator segments.

Results:

  • If test indicates short circuit in windings, clean commutator of dust and filings and test armature again.
  • If re-test still indicates a short circuit, replace armature.

How do I test for grounded windings?

  1. Use an ohmmeter or test light and touch probes on each commutator bar.
  2. Armature windings are connected in parallel, so each commutator bar must be checked.

Results:

  • If test indicates continuity, a winding is grounded and the armature must be replaced.

How do I test for open circuit windings?

  1. Use an ohmmeter or test light.
  2. Touch probes on two different commutator bars.

Results:

  • If test shows high resistance or no continuity, there is an open circuit and the armature must be replaced.

How do I troubleshoot if the engine cranks but will not start or starts hard?

  • Check the spark plug for being fouled, defective, having an incorrect gap, or being the incorrect spark plug.
  • Check for defective ignition components.
  • Check if the in-line fuel shutoff valve is not open or the fuel tank is empty.
  • Check if the fuel filter or line is restricted or if the fuel pump is restricted or leaking.
  • Check if the fuel is stale, contains water, or is the wrong type.
  • Check if the fuel pump is not operating.
  • Check if the air filter element(s) is plugged, oil soaked, or restricted.
  • Check if the choke, throttle, governor linkage or carburetor is misadjusted.
  • Check if the carburetor is worn, contaminated with debris or varnish, has passages that are plugged, or has the wrong jets.
  • Check if the carburetor, intake manifold, or cylinder head gaskets are leaking or damaged.
  • Check for low compression from a worn piston, rings, cylinder, valves, low vacuum or warped head.

How do I troubleshoot if the engine will not stay running, runs rough, or erratic?

  • Check the spark plug for being fouled, defective, having an incorrect gap, or being the incorrect spark plug.
  • Check for defective ignition components.
  • Check if the fuel filter or line is restricted or if the fuel pump is restricted or leaking.
  • Check if the fuel is stale, contains water, or is the wrong type.
  • Check if the fuel pump is not operating.
  • Check if the air filter element(s) is plugged, oil soaked, or restricted.
  • Check if the choke, throttle, governor linkage or carburetor is misadjusted.
  • Check if the carburetor is worn, contaminated with debris or varnish, has passages that are plugged, or has the wrong jets.
  • Check if the carburetor, intake manifold, or cylinder head gaskets are leaking or damaged.
  • Check for low compression from a worn piston, rings, cylinder, valves, low vacuum or warped head.
  • Check if the valve clearance is incorrect, the valves and seats are burned or warped, the springs are defective, or the ACR is defective.
  • Check if the engine gaskets or seals are leaking.
  • Check if the crankcase breather is restricted, the reed valve is damaged, the clearance is incorrect, or the drain hole is plugged.
  • Check if the valve guides or seals are worn or leaking or the valve stems are worn.

How do I troubleshoot if the engine dies frequently?

  • Check the spark plug for being fouled, defective, having an incorrect gap, or being the incorrect spark plug.
  • Check for defective ignition components.
  • Check if the in-line fuel shutoff valve is not open or the fuel tank is empty.
  • Check if the fuel filter or line is restricted or if the fuel pump is restricted or leaking.
  • Check if the fuel is stale, contains water, or is the wrong type.
  • Check if the fuel pump is not operating.
  • Check if the air filter element(s) is plugged, oil soaked, or restricted.
  • Check if the choke, throttle, governor linkage or carburetor is misadjusted.
  • Check if the carburetor is worn, contaminated with debris or varnish, has passages that are plugged, or has the wrong jets.
  • Check if the carburetor, intake manifold, or cylinder head gaskets are leaking or damaged.
  • Check for low compression from a worn piston, rings, cylinder, valves, low vacuum or warped head.
  • Check if the valve clearance is incorrect, the valves and seats are burned or warped, the springs are defective, or the ACR is defective.
  • Check if the engine gaskets or seals are leaking.
  • Check if the crankcase breather is restricted, the reed valve is damaged, the clearance is incorrect, or the drain hole is plugged.
  • Check if the valve guides or seals are worn or leaking or the valve stems are worn.

How do I troubleshoot if the engine backfires?

  • Check the spark plug for being fouled, defective, having an incorrect gap, or being the incorrect spark plug.
  • Check for defective ignition components.
  • Check if the fuel filter or line is restricted or if the fuel pump is restricted or leaking.
  • Check if the fuel is stale, contains water, or is the wrong type.
  • Check if the fuel pump is not operating.
  • Check if the air filter element(s) is plugged, oil soaked, or restricted.
  • Check if the choke, throttle, governor linkage or carburetor is misadjusted.
  • Check if the carburetor is worn, contaminated with debris or varnish, has passages that are plugged, or has the wrong jets.
  • Check if the carburetor, intake manifold, or cylinder head gaskets are leaking or damaged.
  • Check for low compression from a worn piston, rings, cylinder, valves, low vacuum or warped head.
  • Check if the valve clearance is incorrect, the valves and seats are burned or warped, the springs are defective, or the ACR is defective.

How do I troubleshoot if the engine surges, or has uneven or uncontrolled RPM?

  • Check the spark plug for being fouled, defective, having an incorrect gap, or being the incorrect spark plug.
  • Check for defective ignition components.
  • Check if the fuel filter or line is restricted or if the fuel pump is restricted or leaking.
  • Check if the fuel is stale, contains water, or is the wrong type.
  • Check if the fuel pump is not operating.
  • Check if the air filter element(s) is plugged, oil soaked, or restricted.
  • Check if the choke, throttle, governor linkage or carburetor is misadjusted.
  • Check if the carburetor is worn, contaminated with debris or varnish, has passages that are plugged, or has the wrong jets.
  • Check if the carburetor, intake manifold, or cylinder head gaskets are leaking or damaged.
  • Check for low compression from a worn piston, rings, cylinder, valves, low vacuum or warped head.
  • Check if the valve clearance is incorrect, the valves and seats are burned or warped, the springs are defective, or the ACR is defective.

How do I troubleshoot if the engine has low or loses coolant?

  • Check the spark plug for being fouled, defective, having an incorrect gap, or being the incorrect spark plug.
  • Check for defective ignition components.
  • Check if the air filter element(s) is plugged, oil soaked, or restricted.
  • Check if the carburetor, intake manifold, or cylinder head gaskets are leaking or damaged.
  • Check if the clogged radiator and/or defective thermostat.
  • Check for weak coolant.
  • Check for coolant pump impeller.
  • Check for leak in cooling system.
  • Check for defective radiator cap.

How do I troubleshoot if the engine has low power?

  • Check the spark plug for being fouled, defective, having an incorrect gap, or being the incorrect spark plug.
  • Check for defective ignition components.
  • Check if the fuel filter or line is restricted or if the fuel pump is restricted or leaking.
  • Check if the fuel is stale, contains water, or is the wrong type.
  • Check if the fuel pump is not operating.
  • Check if the air filter element(s) is plugged, oil soaked, or restricted.
  • Check if the choke, throttle, governor linkage or carburetor is misadjusted.
  • Check if the carburetor is worn, contaminated with debris or varnish, has passages that are plugged, or has the wrong jets.
  • Check if the carburetor, intake manifold, or cylinder head gaskets are leaking or damaged.
  • Check for low compression from a worn piston, rings, cylinder, valves, low vacuum or warped head.
  • Check if the valve clearance is incorrect, the valves and seats are burned or warped, the springs are defective, or the ACR is defective.

How do I troubleshoot if the engine has no spark?

  • Check the spark plug for being fouled, defective, having an incorrect gap, or being the incorrect spark plug.
  • Check for defective ignition components.
  • Check if the air filter element(s) is plugged, oil soaked, or restricted.
  • Check if the valve clearance is incorrect, the valves and seats are burned or warped, the springs are defective, or the ACR is defective.

How do I troubleshoot if the engine will not crank?

  • Check the spark plug for being fouled, defective, having an incorrect gap, or being the incorrect spark plug.
  • Check for defective ignition components.
  • Check if the starter is worn, resulting in cranking RPM being too slow.
  • Check if the air filter element(s) is plugged, oil soaked, or restricted.
  • Check if the valve clearance is incorrect, the valves and seats are burned or warped, the springs are defective, or the ACR is defective.
  • Check if the battery cables are corroded or loose, or the battery is weak.

How do I troubleshoot if there is a lack of fuel in the carburetor?

  • Check the spark plug for being fouled, defective, having an incorrect gap, or being the incorrect spark plug.
  • Check for defective ignition components.
  • Check if the in-line fuel shutoff valve is not open or the fuel tank is empty.
  • Check if the fuel filter or line is restricted or if the fuel pump is restricted or leaking.
  • Check if the fuel is stale, contains water, or is the wrong type.
  • Check if the fuel pump is not operating.
  • Check if the air filter element(s) is plugged, oil soaked, or restricted.
  • Check if the choke, throttle, governor linkage or carburetor is misadjusted.
  • Check if the carburetor is worn, contaminated with debris or varnish, has passages that are plugged, or has the wrong jets.
  • Check if the carburetor, intake manifold, or cylinder head gaskets are leaking or damaged.
  • Check if the valve clearance is incorrect, the valves and seats are burned or warped, the springs are defective, or the ACR is defective.

How do I troubleshoot if the engine floods?

  • Check the spark plug for being fouled, defective, having an incorrect gap, or being the incorrect spark plug.
  • Check for defective ignition components.
  • Check if the fuel filter or line is restricted or if the fuel pump is restricted or leaking.
  • Check if the fuel is stale, contains water, or is the wrong type.
  • Check if the fuel pump is not operating.
  • Check if the air filter element(s) is plugged, oil soaked, or restricted.
  • Check if the choke, throttle, governor linkage or carburetor is misadjusted.
  • Check if the carburetor is worn, contaminated with debris or varnish, has passages that are plugged, or has the wrong jets.
  • Check if the carburetor, intake manifold, or cylinder head gaskets are leaking or damaged.
  • Check if the valve clearance is incorrect, the valves and seats are burned or warped, the springs are defective, or the ACR is defective.

How do I troubleshoot if the exhaust smokes black or uses too much fuel?

  • Check the spark plug for being fouled, defective, having an incorrect gap, or being the incorrect spark plug.
  • Check for defective ignition components.
  • Check if the fuel filter or line is restricted or if the fuel pump is restricted or leaking.
  • Check if the fuel is stale, contains water, or is the wrong type.
  • Check if the fuel pump is not operating.
  • Check if the air filter element(s) is plugged, oil soaked, or restricted.
  • Check if the choke, throttle, governor linkage or carburetor is misadjusted.
  • Check if the carburetor is worn, contaminated with debris or varnish, has passages that are plugged, or has the wrong jets.
  • Check if the carburetor, intake manifold, or cylinder head gaskets are leaking or damaged.
  • Check if the valve clearance is incorrect, the valves and seats are burned or warped, the springs are defective, or the ACR is defective.

How do I troubleshoot if the exhaust smokes blue or has excessive oil consumption?

  • Check the spark plug for being fouled, defective, having an incorrect gap, or being the incorrect spark plug.
  • Check for defective ignition components.
  • Check if the air filter element(s) is plugged, oil soaked, or restricted.
  • Check if the valve clearance is incorrect, the valves and seats are burned or warped, the springs are defective, or the ACR is defective.
  • Check if the engine oil viscosity or level is incorrect or the engine oil filter is restricted.
  • Check if the engine gaskets or seals are leaking.
  • Check if the crankcase breather is restricted, the reed valve is damaged, the clearance is incorrect, or the drain hole is plugged.
  • Check if the valve guides or seals are worn or leaking or the valve stems are worn.
  • Check for low compression from a worn piston, rings, cylinder, valves, low vacuum or warped head.

How do I troubleshoot if the engine has low oil pressure?

  • Check the spark plug for being fouled, defective, having an incorrect gap, or being the incorrect spark plug.
  • Check for defective ignition components.
  • Check if the air filter element(s) is plugged, oil soaked, or restricted.
  • Check if the valve clearance is incorrect, the valves and seats are burned or warped, the springs are defective, or the ACR is defective.
  • Check if the engine oil viscosity or level is incorrect or the engine oil filter is restricted.
  • Check if the connecting rod or crankshaft bearings are worn or the internal wear limits are out of specification.

How do I troubleshoot if there is fuel in the oil?

  • Check the spark plug for being fouled, defective, having an incorrect gap, or being the incorrect spark plug.
  • Check for defective ignition components.
  • Check if the air filter element(s) is plugged, oil soaked, or restricted.
  • Check if the valve clearance is incorrect, the valves and seats are burned or warped, the springs are defective, or the ACR is defective.

How do I troubleshoot if the engine overheats?

  • Check the spark plug for being fouled, defective, having an incorrect gap, or being the incorrect spark plug.
  • Check for defective ignition components.
  • Check if the air filter element(s) is plugged, oil soaked, or restricted.
  • Check if the valve clearance is incorrect, the valves and seats are burned or warped, the springs are defective, or the ACR is defective.
  • Check if the clogged radiator and/or defective thermostat.
  • Check for weak coolant.
  • Check for coolant pump impeller.
  • Check for leak in cooling system.
  • Check for defective radiator cap.

How do I troubleshoot if there is excessive engine noise or vibration?

  • Check the spark plug for being fouled, defective, having an incorrect gap, or being the incorrect spark plug.
  • Check for defective ignition components.
  • Check if the air filter element(s) is plugged, oil soaked, or restricted.
  • Check if the valve clearance is incorrect, the valves and seats are burned or warped, the springs are defective, or the ACR is defective.
  • Check if the connecting rod or crankshaft bearings are worn or the internal wear limits are out of specification.

What do I check if the engine is hard to start?

  • Check the carburetor for:

    • Plugged fuel passage
    • Plugged air passage
    • Float level
    • Carburetor setting

  • Stale fuel

  • No fuel in the tank

  • Closed shutoff valve

  • Clogged fuel filter

  • Closed shutoff solenoid

  • Plugged air hole in tank cap

  • Plugged fuel line

  • Excessive use of choke

  • Clogged air cleaner

  • Fuel level too high in float bowl

  • Remove spark plug and check spark by cranking engine while having the plug grounded against engine block. Install spare plug to avoid fuel spitting from the hole.

What do I check if sparks are not produced when the spark plug is replaced?

  • Faulty spark plug
  • Faulty contact of plug cap terminal to lead
  • Faulty control unit
  • Faulty ignition coil
  • Faulty high tension lead
  • Incorrect ignition coil air gap

What do I check if the compression is not sufficient?

  • Worn piston/piston rings
  • Stuck piston rings
  • Worn cylinder bore
  • Faulty contact of valve seat
  • Misadjusted valve
  • Warped cylinder head
  • Broken valve spring
  • Stuck valve
  • Leaking head gasket
  • Remove spark plug and check spark by cranking engine while having the plug grounded against engine block. Install spare plug to avoid fuel spitting from the hole.

What do I check if engine malfunctions at low speed?

  • Passages in carburetor plugged
  • Plugged fuel filter
  • Plugged vent
  • Stale fuel
  • Loose flange nuts
  • Damaged gasket
  • Warped flange
  • Misadjusted valve
  • Worn camshaft lobes, push rods
  • Incorrect valve timing

What do I check if air is not drawn through carburetor flange?

  • Loose flange nuts
  • Damaged gasket
  • Warped flange

What do I check if valve clearance is not normal?

  • Misadjusted valve
  • Worn camshaft lobes, push rods

What do I check if alignment of timing gear marks is incorrect?

  • Incorrect valve timing

What do I check if there is no spark?

  • Faulty plug insulation
  • Fouled electrodes
  • Faulty high tension lead
  • Incorrect ignition coil air gap
  • Faulty ignition coil

What do I check if there is black or blue smoke emitted from the muffler?

  • Plugged air filter

How is installation done?

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

What should be inspected during fuel pump inspection?

  • Inspect pump and insulator for wear or damage; replace if necessary.
  • Turn rod slowly and inspect push rod for bend using V-blocks and a dial indicator. Replace if variation is greater than 0.05 mm (0.002 in.).

What is the procedure to remove/install the radiator?

  1. Loosen radiator cap to relieve pressure. Then close tightly.
  2. Disconnect bypass hose from cylinder head to drain cooling system. Capacity is approximately 2.1 L (2.2 U.S. qt).
  3. Reconnect bypass hose.
  4. Remove overflow hose from reservoir.
  5. Disconnect outlet hose.
  6. Remove nuts and washers on the left-hand side.
  7. Disconnect inlet hose.
  8. Remove nuts and washers on the right-hand side.
  9. Remove and inspect radiator.
  10. Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.
    • Fill engine cooling system to proper level with coolant of correct specifications.

What should be inspected during radiator inspection?

  • Remove deflection screen.
  • Inspect rubber dampeners for excessive wear or damage. Replace if necessary.
  • Check radiator for debris lodged in fins. Clean radiator using compressed air or low pressure washer.
  • Inspect radiator for bent fins, cracks and damaged seams. Repair or replace radiator if necessary.

What is the procedure to remove/install the cooling fan?

  1. Remove radiator.
  2. Remove four cap screws and cooling fan.
  3. Inspect fan for cracks, broken blades or other damage. Replace as necessary.
  4. Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

What is the procedure to remove/install the cooling air duct?

  1. Remove radiator.

  2. Remove air cleaner assembly.

    IMPORTANT: Remove cap screws and collars carefully. Parts may fall into the air intake.

  3. Remove cap screws and collars.

  4. Remove retaining clips.

  5. Remove top half of air duct.

  6. Remove cooling fan.

  7. Remove four studs and washers.

  8. Remove cap screws and collars.

  9. Remove lower half of air duct.

    • Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.
    • Check condition of O-rings.
    • Apply Thread Lock and Sealer (Medium Strength) to threads of stud (cylinder Block ends) and tighten to 6 N•m (53 lb-in).
    • Tighten cap screws to 6 N•m (53 lb-in).

What is the procedure to remove/install the thermostat?

  1. Remove cooling air duct.
  2. Remove cap screws, housing, gasket, and thermostat. Discard gasket.
  3. Clean gasket mating surface.
  4. Test thermostat.
    • Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.
    • Use new gasket for installation.
    • Tighten cap screws to 6 N•m (53 lb-in).

What is the procedure for the thermostat opening test?

  • Reason: To determine opening temperature of the thermostat.
  • Test Equipment:
    • Thermometer
    • Glass Container
    • Heating Unit
  • Procedure:
    1. Suspend thermostat and a thermometer in a container of water.
    2. Heat and stir the water. Observe opening action of thermostat and compare temperatures with specifications.
    3. Remove thermostat and observe its closing action as it cools.
  • Specifications:
    • Begin Opening: 63–66 °C (145–150°F)
    • Fully Open: 80 °C (176°F)
  • Results:
    • If thermostat does not open according to specifications, replace.
    • If closing action is not smooth and slow, replace thermostat.

What is the procedure to remove/install the coolant pump?

NOTE: Note length and position of mounting cap screws to aid in installation.

  1. Disconnect radiator and bypass hoses. Remove mounting cap screws, pump and gaskets.
  2. Inspect all parts for wear or damage.
    • Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.
    • Use new gaskets for installation.

NOTE: M8 cap screw goes through crankcase cover into crankcase.

What is the disassembly/inspection/assembly procedure for the coolant pump?

IMPORTANT: Leakage from the coolant pump will drain into the engine block and could cause engine damage. If there is any doubt of the condition of the coolant pump, replace it as a complete assembly.

  1. Remove spur gear using a puller.
  2. Remove impeller assembly from housing.
  3. Disassemble impeller assembly.

NOTE: Mechanical seal is sealed in place and will be difficult to remove.

  1. Drive old mechanical seal from housing.
  2. Measure outside diameter of impeller shaft. If shaft diameter is less than 9.94 mm (0.391 in.), or shows any signs of corrosion, replace shaft.
  3. Measure inside diameter of impeller shaft bore in housing. Replace housing if shaft bore is greater than 10.09 mm (0.397 in).
    • Assembly is done in the reverse order of disassembly.
    • Install mechanical seal using special driver included in seal kit.

What is the procedure to remove/install the overflow reservoir?

  1. Remove hose.
  2. Remove cap screws and reservoir.
    • Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.
    • Tighten cap screw to 4 N•m (35 lb-in).

What is the procedure to remove/install the flywheel?

  1. Remove cooling air duct.
  2. Move pulser coils away from flywheel.
  3. Remove fan extension.
  4. Hold flywheel and remove mounting nuts and washers.
  5. Remove flywheel using a flywheel puller.
    • Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.
    • Tighten mounting nuts to 6 N•m (53 lb-in).

What is the procedure to remove/install the rocker arm assembly?

NOTE: The following procedures are done separately on both cylinder head assemblies.

  1. Remove spark plug.
  2. Remove rocker arm cover.
  3. Turn crankshaft until piston is at highest position on compression stroke (both valves will be closed).
  4. Remove snap rings, shaft and arms.

IMPORTANT: Mark push rods for reassembly in original locations.

  1. Remove push rods.
  2. Inspect all parts for wear or damage.
    • Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

IMPORTANT: Be sure piston is at top dead center. Align rocker arms over push rods during assembly.

*   Adjust valve clearance.

What should be inspected during rocker arm assembly inspection?

  • Measure outer diameter of rocker arm shaft. Replace if shaft diameter measures less than 11.95 mm (0.470 in).
  • Measure inner diameter of rocker arm bearing. Replace bearing if inside diameter is greater than 12.07 mm (0.475 in).
  • Inspect push rod for bend using V-blocks and a dial indicator. Turn rod slowly and read variation on indicator. Replace if variation is greater than 0.80 mm (0.031 in).

What is the procedure to remove/install the cylinder head and valves?

NOTE: Number one cylinder head shown. Number two cylinder head is the same except it has a thermostat housing, by-pass port, and a thermo-switch port.

  1. Remove intake manifold.
  2. Remove rocker arm cover, rocker arm assembly, and push rods.
  3. Remove spark plug.

IMPORTANT: Loosen cylinder head bolts 1/4 turn at a time, in the sequence shown to avoid warping the cylinder head.

  1. Remove cylinder head assembly and gasket.
  2. Disassemble and inspect cylinder head and valves.
    • Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.
    • Use new gaskets for installation.

IMPORTANT: Torque should be applied in the sequence shown, in 3 N•m (27 lb-in.) increments. Install intake manifold before tightening cylinder head cap screws to final torque.

*   Adjust valve clearance.

What is involved in the disassembly/assembly of the cylinder head and valves?

  • Inspect all parts for wear or damage.
  • Intake and exhaust valve guides cannot be replaced; replace head if worn.

IMPORTANT: Bottom spring retainer can only be removed with valve stem seal. Removal of retainer or seal damages stem seal. Inspect seal. If seal is not damaged, do not remove it.

  • If necessary to replace stem seal, remove with screwdriver.
  • Apply clean engine oil on intake and exhaust valve stems during assembly.

What is the inspection/replacement procedure for the cylinder head?

  1. Remove carbon deposits from combustion chamber and gasket surface using SCOTCH-BRITE abrasive pads or an equivalent.
  2. Clean head with a suitable solvent and dry with compressed air.
  3. Inspect head for cracks or damage.
  4. Inspect gasket surface for burrs and nicks.
  5. Put cylinder head on a surface plate. Check for distortion at several points around the head using a feeler gauge. Replace head if distortion is more than 0.06 mm (0.002 in).

How are the valve guides inspected?

NOTE: Intake and exhaust valve guides cannot be replaced; replace head if worn.

  1. Clean inside of valve guides with valve guide cleaner.
  2. Measure inside diameter of valve guides. Replace cylinder head if inside diameter is greater than 5.06 mm (0.199 in).

How are the valve seats inspected?

  1. If valve seats are loose, warped or distorted beyond reconditioning, replace cylinder head. Pitted or worn seats can be re-faced using a seat cutter.
  2. Check valve seating pattern for correct width and evenness all around. If valve seat width is not within 0.5—1.1 mm (0.020—0.043 in), recondition valve seat.
  3. Lap valve after reconditioning with lapping compound and recheck valve seating surface for proper width and evenness of seating pattern.

How are the valve springs inspected?

  1. Inspect spring for pitting, rust, and burrs. Replace if necessary.
  2. Measure spring free length. Replace spring if measurement is less than 27.30 mm (1.074 in).

How are the intake and exhaust valves inspected?

  1. Remove carbon from valve head, face, and stem with a power-operated wire brush. Be sure carbon is removed, not merely burnished.
  2. Inspect valve head, face, and stems for defects. Replace if necessary.
  3. Replace warped valves or valves with less than 0.50 mm (0.020 in.) margin. Valve stem ends should be ground square before checking valve to tappet clearance.
  4. Measure outside diameter of valve stem. Replace if diameter is less than specifications.
    • Intake: 4.93 mm (0.194 in.)
    • Exhaust: 4.92 mm (0.193 in.)
  5. Check valve stem for bend using V-blocks and a dial indicator. Turn valve slowly and read variation on indicator. Replace if variation is greater than 0.03 mm (0.001 in).

How should valves be analyzed?

Lead deposits on the intake valve are caused by exhaust gas leakage past the valve. This indicates that the valve is not seating properly.

IMPORTANT: DO NOT grind the exhaust valve or life will be shortened.

Grind the intake valve and resurface the seat to correct this condition.

NOTE: Be sure to reset valve-to-tappet clearance after grinding valves.

Valve stem corrosion is caused by moisture in the engine. Moisture in the fuel-air mixture can condense inside the engine when the engine is stopped and cools down.

Valve corrosion can also occur during storage. Fogging or pouring oil in the combustion chamber before storing helps prevent valve corrosion.

Corroded or pitted valves collect deposits and may cause sticking valves. Replace badly corroded or pitted valves.

Exhaust valves are designed to function in temperatures exceeding 2760°C (5000°F). However, when operating at high temperatures for long periods of time, valve burning may occur. Valves running too hot will show a dark discoloration of the valve stem into the area protected by the valve guide. Another indication is distortion of the valve margin and valve face. Valve inserts may also begin to burn away.

How should valve seats be reconditioned?

  1. Inspect valve seats for damage. If seats are loose, warped or distorted beyond reconditioning, replace cylinder head. Pitted or worn seats can be refaced using a seat cutter.
  2. To recondition seat, cut at 45° angle to clean up seat. Cut narrowing angle at 30°. Finish cut at 45° to establish seating surface width.
  3. Cut valve seating surface as close as possible to specifications.
    • Valve Seating Surface (Standard): 0.80 mm (0.031 in.)
    • Seat Width Tolerance: 0.50—1.10 mm (0.020—0.043 in.)
    • Valve Seat Angle: 45 °
    • Valve Face Angle: 45 °
    • Valve Margin (Minimum): 0.050 mm (0.020 in.)
    • Valve Narrowing Angle: 30 °
  4. Lap valves to seats after re-facing.
  5. Center valve seat on the valve face.
  6. Check seat for good contact using Prussian Blue Compound.

How are valves lapped?

If valve seat does not make proper contact, lap the valve into the seat:

  1. Apply a small amount of fine lapping compound to face of valve.
  2. Grip top of valve with a vacuum cup tool and turn valve to lap valve to seat.
  3. Lift valve from seat every 8 to 10 strokes. Lap until a uniform ring appears around the surface the valve face.
  4. Wash all parts in solvent to remove lapping compound and dry parts with compressed air.
  5. Check position of lap mark on valve face. Lap mark must be on or near the center of valve face.
  6. Apply a light coat of clean engine oil to seat and valve to prevent rusting.

What is the procedure to remove/install the crankcase cover?

  1. Drain oil from crankcase. Capacity is approximately 1.8 L (3.8 U.S. pt) with filter.
  2. Remove coolant pump.
  3. Remove eight cap screws, crankcase cover and gasket.
  4. Clean crankcase and crankcase cover gasket surfaces.
    • Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

NOTE: Do not force cover. Gears must mesh for proper positioning.

*   Use new gasket for installation.
*   Tighten mounting cap screws using the sequence shown to 21 N•m (186 lb-ft).
*   Tighten oil drain plug to 25 N•m (221 lb-in).

How are the piston and connecting rod removed?

NOTE: No. 1 cylinder is the right-hand cylinder viewed from the flywheel. No. 2 cylinder is the left-hand cylinder viewed from the flywheel.

  1. Remove cylinder head.
  2. Remove crankcase cover.
  3. Check cylinder bore for ridges which can cause piston damage if not removed. Remove ridge using a ridge reamer.
  4. Turn crankshaft to expose connecting rod caps.
  5. Remove connecting rod cap.
  6. Push piston and connecting rod assembly from cylinder bore.
  7. Disassemble and inspect all parts for wear or damage.

How are the piston and connecting rod installed?

  1. Deglaze cylinder bore.
  2. Stagger piston ring end gaps 180° apart, but do not align with oil ring side rail end caps.
  3. Apply a light film of oil to piston and rings. Compress rings with a ring compressor.

IMPORTANT: Match mark on pistons must face flywheel. Large chamfer of connecting rods must be against crankshaft web (opposite each other).

  1. Install piston and connecting rod assembly in cylinder bore with arrow match mark on piston head facing the flywheel side of the engine.
  2. Apply a light film of clean engine oil to cap bearing surface and cap screws. Install connecting rod cap with chamfer facing crank web. Tighten cap screws to 12 N•m (106 lb-in).
  3. Install crankcase cover.
  4. Install cylinder head.

How are the piston and connecting rod disassembled?

IMPORTANT: Keep parts together as a set.

  • Analyze piston and piston ring wear.
  • Mark each piston and connecting rod to aid in assembly.
  • Remove piston rings using a piston ring expander.
  • Inspect all parts for wear or damage. Replace as necessary.

IMPORTANT: DO NOT reuse piston pin retaining rings. Always use new for assembly.

How are the piston and connecting rod assembled?

  • Apply a thin film of clean engine oil to piston pin and connecting rod bearing during assembly.

NOTE: With pistons installed, No. 1 piston is designated by the large chamfer on connecting rod facing toward flywheel. No. 2 piston is designated by the large chamfer on the connecting rod facing away from flywheel.

The arrow match mark on both piston heads should point toward the flywheel.

  1. Assemble pistons to connecting rods:
    • No. 1 piston: Align arrow match mark on piston head with “MADE IN JAPAN” on connecting rod.
    • No. 2 piston: Align arrow match mark on piston head opposite “MADE IN JAPAN” on connecting rod.

IMPORTANT: DO NOT reuse piston pin retaining rings.

Retaining ring gap must not align with notch at end of piston pin bore.

  1. Install piston pin with new retaining rings.
  2. Before installing rings on piston, check ring end gap in cylinder bore.
  3. Install oil control and compression rings:
    • Oil ring: Install spacer, then side rails. Align side rail end gaps 180° apart in the position shown.
    • Install compression ring in groove with letter mark facing up. Ring should turn freely in groove. Turn ring until gap is positioned as shown.

How is the piston inspected?

IMPORTANT: DO NOT use a caustic cleaning solution or a wire brush to clean piston.

  1. Remove all deposits from the piston.
  2. Clean carbon from piston ring grooves with a ring groove cleaner. If cleaning tool is not available, break an old ring and use it to carefully clean groove.
  3. Check that all oil return passages in grooves are open.
  4. Inspect piston for scoring or fractures. Replace piston if damaged.

NOTE: Oil control rings are not measured.

  1. Using a new piston ring and feeler gauge, check top two ring grooves for wear, at several points around piston. Replace piston if clearance is greater than 0.10 mm (0.004 in.). Oil ring groove is not measured, use visual check only.
  2. Measure piston pin diameter at six places. Replace pin if measurement is less than 15.98 mm (0.629 in).
  3. Measure piston pin bore diameter in piston. Replace piston if measurement is greater than 16.04 mm (0.631 in).
  4. Measure piston O.D. perpendicular to piston pin at distance “A”.

NOTE: If the engine has had a previous major overhaul, oversize pistons and rings may have been installed. Pistons and rings are available in oversize—0.50 mm (0.020 in).

  1. Measure cylinder bore diameter.
  2. Subtract piston O.D. measurement from cylinder bore measurement to determine piston-to-cylinder bore clearance.
  3. Replace piston and/or rebore cylinder block if not within 0.015—0.150 mm (0.00059—0.00590 in).

How is the connecting rod inspected?

  1. Analyze crankshaft and connecting rod wear.
  2. Clean and inspect rod. Replace if scored.
  3. Install connecting rod cap. Tighten cap screws to 12 N•m (106 lb-in).
  4. Measure connecting rod crankshaft bearing diameter and piston pin bearing diameter. Replace connecting rod if either measurement is greater than specifications.

How are piston rings inspected?

NOTE: Oil control ring gap is not measured.

  1. Check piston ring end gap:
    • Install compression rings individually using a piston to position it squarely in bore approximately 25.4 mm (1.0 in) down from top of cylinder.
    • Check end gap with feeler gauge. Replace ring if end gap is greater than 1.00 mm (0.040 in).

How is piston ring wear analyzed?

Rings of the wrong size or rings having improper end gaps will not conform to the shape of the cylinder. This results in high oil consumption and excessive blow-by.

Ring end gaps should be staggered on the piston during installation. End gaps in alignment can also cause oil consumption and blow-by.

What is the procedure to remove/install the camshaft and tappets?

  1. Remove fuel pump.
  2. Remove rocker arm assemblies.
  3. Remove crankshaft cover.

IMPORTANT: Align timing marks to prevent damage to tappets when removing camshaft.

  1. Rotate crankshaft until timing marks align.
  2. Remove and inspect camshaft.

NOTE: Mark tappets so they can be installed in their original guides during assembly.

  1. Remove and inspect tappets for wear or damage. Replace if necessary.
    • Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.
    • Align timing marks when installing camshaft.

What should be inspected during camshaft and tappets inspection?

  1. Inspect camshaft for worn or broken teeth.
  2. Check for loose rivets holding the gear to camshaft. Replace camshaft if loose.
  3. Measure flywheel side journal, PTO side journal, cam lobe height, and fuel pump lobe. Replace camshaft if any measurement is less than specifications.
  4. Measure camshaft bearings in crankcase. Replace block if diameter is greater than 14.07 mm (0.554 in).
  5. Measure camshaft bearings in crankcase cover. Replace cover if diameter is greater than 14.05 mm (0.553 in).

What is the procedure to remove/install the crankshaft and main bearings?

  1. Remove flywheel.
  2. Remove camshaft.

IMPORTANT: Connecting rod caps must be installed on the same connecting rods they were removed from.

  1. Mark connecting rod caps to aid in installation.
  2. Remove connecting rod caps and push pistons to top of cylinder.
  3. Remove crankshaft.
  4. Inspect crankshaft for wear or damage.
    • Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.
    • Cover keyway on flywheel end of crankshaft with tape to prevent seal damage when installing crankshaft.
    • Apply a light film of clean engine oil on crankshaft bearing surfaces before installation.
    • Pack oil seals with lithium base grease.
    • Install connecting rod caps.
    • Tighten connecting rod cap screws to 12 N•m (106 lb-in).

What should be inspected during crankshaft and main bearings inspection?

  1. Analyze crankshaft and connecting rod wear.

IMPORTANT: A bent crankshaft must be replaced; it cannot be straightened.

  1. Clean and inspect crankshaft. Replace if scratched, damaged or worn beyond specifications.
  2. Place crankshaft into an alignment jig and slowly rotate crankshaft. Use dial indicators to measure maximum Total Indicated Runout (TIR). If runout exceeds 0.05 mm (0.002 in), replace crankshaft.
  3. Measure main bearing journal diameters. If either journal O.D. is less than 29.92 mm (1.178 in), replace crankshaft.
  4. Measure connecting rod journal diameter. If journal is less than 30.93 mm (1.218 in), replace crankshaft. Inspect journal radii for cracks.

If any journal diameter is less than specifications, replace crankshaft.

  1. Measure crankshaft main bearing diameter in crankcase and crankcase cover. Replace crankcase or crankcase cover if bearing I.D. is greater than 30.09 mm (1.185 in).

How are crankshaft oil seals replaced?

IMPORTANT: DO NOT scratch machined surface of bearings when removing seals.

  • Flywheel End: Remove crankshaft.
  • PTO End: Remove crankcase cover.
  • Remove worn or damaged seals using a screwdriver. DO NOT damage machined surfaces.
  • Install seals with lip toward inside of engine using a driver set. Press in seals until flush with flange surface.
  • Pack lithium based grease inside lips of seals.

How is crankshaft and connecting rod wear analyzed?

Check connecting rod and cap for damage or unusual wear patterns.

Lack of lubrication or improper lubrication can cause the connecting rod and cap to seize the crankshaft; the connecting rod and piston may both break causing other internal damage. Inspect block carefully before rebuilding engine.

Crankshaft and connecting rod damage can also result from an incorrectly installed bearing cap.

How is the cylinder block inspected?

  1. Clean block and check for cracks.

NOTE: Cracks not visible to the eye may be detected by coating the suspected area with a mixture of 25% kerosene and 75% light engine oil. Wipe area dry and immediately apply coating of zinc oxide dissolved in wood alcohol. If crack is present, coating becomes discolored at the defective area. Replace block if any cracks are found.

  1. Measure cylinder bore diameter at three positions:
    • Top—10 mm (0.3937 in.) from top of block.
    • Middle—55 mm (2.165 in.) from top of block.
    • Bottom—10 mm (0.3937 in.) from bottom of cylinder.

At these three positions, measure in both directions along crankshaft centerline and direction of crankshaft rotation.

NOTE: If the engine has had a previous major overhaul, oversize pistons and rings may have been installed. Pistons and rings are available in oversize—0.50 mm (0.020 in).

  1. If cylinder bore exceeds wear limit, rebore cylinder or replace cylinder block.

NOTE: If cylinders are rebored, oversize pistons and rings must be installed.

How should a cylinder bore be deglazed?

  1. Deglaze cylinder bore using a rigid hone with a coarse grit stone initially and fine grit stone for the final finish.
  2. Use hone as instructed by manufacture to obtain a 40° crosshatch pattern.

IMPORTANT: DO NOT use gasoline, kerosene, or commercial solvents to clean cylinder bores. Solvents will not remove all abrasives from cylinder walls.

  1. Clean cylinder walls using clean white rags and warm soapy water. Continue to clean cylinder until white rags show no discoloration.
  2. Dry cylinder and apply a light coat of engine oil.

How is a cylinder block rebored?

IMPORTANT: Check stone for wear or damage. Use correct stone for the job.

NOTE: The cylinder block can be rebored to use oversize pistons and rings—0.50 mm (0.020 in.). Have a reliable repair shop rebore the block, or use a drill press and honing tool. Rebore cylinder with honing tool to an initial (coarse grit stone) and a final (fine grit stone) bore according to below specifications. Align center of bore to drill press center.

  1. Lower and raise hone until end extends 20—25 mm (0.75—1.0 in.) past ends of cylinder.
  2. Adjust hone stones until they contact narrowest point of cylinder walls.
  3. Coat inside of cylinder with honing oil. Turn hone by hand. Adjust if too tight.
  4. Run drill press between 200—250 rpm. Move hone up and down in cylinder approximately 20 times per minute.

NOTE: Measure bore when cylinder is cool.

  1. Stop press and check cylinder diameter.

NOTE: Finish should not be smooth. It should have a 40—60° cross-hatch pattern.

  1. Check bore for size, taper and out-of-round.
  2. If cylinder bore exceeds wear limit, rebore cylinder or replace block.
  3. Hone the cylinder an additional 0.007—0.009 mm (0.0003—0.0004 in.) for final bore specifications. This allows for 0.020 mm (0.0008 in.) shrinkage when cylinder cools.

IMPORTANT: DO NOT use gasoline, kerosene, or commercial solvents to clean cylinder bores. Solvents will not remove all abrasives from cylinder walls.

  1. Clean cylinder walls using clean white rags and water. Continue to clean cylinder until white rags show no discoloration.
  2. Dry cylinder. Apply a light coat of clean engine oil.

How is the oil pump disassembled and assembled?

  1. Remove crankcase cover.

IMPORTANT: Oil pressure relief valve spring will be loose when oil pump assembly is removed.

  1. Remove three cap screws and oil pump assembly.
  2. Remove relief spring and ball.
  3. Remove oil pick-up screen and cover.
  4. Inspect all parts for wear.
    • Assembly is done in the reverse order of disassembly.
    • Fill rotor housing with engine oil for initial lubrication.
    • Install oil pump assembly so that hole in the plate is centered over relief valve.
    • Tighten cap screws to 7.8 N•m (69 lb-in).

What is the reason for a cylinder compression test, and what could be defective?

To determine if the automatic compression release mechanism (ACR) is functioning properly or if the piston, rings, cylinder walls, valves, head flatness, and/or gasket could be defective.

What equipment is needed for the cylinder compression test?

  • JDM59 Compression Gauge.
  • JDM-74A-5 Ignition Test Plug.

What is the procedure for performing a cylinder compression test?

  1. Park the machine in a well-ventilated area and run the engine at MEDIUM idle for five minutes to bring the engine to operating temperature.
  2. Turn the key switch OFF.
  3. Remove the hood.
  4. Disconnect the spark plug wire and ground it with a JDM-74A-5 Ignition Test Plug.
  5. Remove the spark plug and install the JDM-59 Compression Gauge.
  6. Move the throttle control lever to the FAST idle position.
  7. Crank the engine for three to five compression strokes and record the compression reading.
  8. Install the hood.

What are the cylinder compression specifications?

  • Cylinder Compression Maximum: 551.6 kPa (80 psi).
  • Minimum: 345 kPa (50 psi).

What do I do if the compression is above specifications?

The ACR mechanism or hydraulic valve lifters are defective.

What do I do if the compression is below specifications?

Perform the Cylinder Leakdown Test.

What is the reason for performing a cylinder leakdown test?

To determine the condition of the piston, rings, cylinder wall, head flatness, gasket, or intake and exhaust valves.

What equipment is needed for the cylinder leakdown test?

  • JT03502 Cylinder Leakdown Test Kit.
  • JDM-74A-5 Ignition Test Plug.

What is the procedure for performing a cylinder leakdown test?

  1. Park the machine in a well-ventilated area and run the engine at MEDIUM idle for five minutes to bring the engine to operating temperature.
  2. Turn the key switch OFF.
  3. Remove the hood.
  4. Disconnect the crankcase breather hose from the valve cover breather port and remove the air cleaner element from the engine to listen for air leaks.
  5. Use the flywheel mounting cap screw to turn the flywheel and find the approximate top dead center (TDC) of the compression stroke.
  6. Remove the spark plug and put a wooden dowel on top of the piston to find the actual TDC of the compression stroke. Then mark the flywheel screen rib and shroud.
  7. Ground the ignition high tension lead using the JDM-74A-5 Ignition Test Plug to protect the ignition system and install the test kit adapter hose into the spark plug hole.
  8. First, turn the regulator knob on the tester OFF (fully counterclockwise), then attach the appropriate air source to the coupler below the black regulator valve.
  9. Gradually turn the regulator knob clockwise until the needle aligns with “zero” of the yellow “SET” scale.
  10. Turn the flywheel clockwise until the screen TDC mark is between the shroud TDC mark and the front cap screw.
  11. Connect the adapter hose to the tester. Watch and record the gauge reading while listening for excessive air leaks at the carburetor intake, crankcase breather port, and exhaust outlet. Pressure should hold steady or reduce only slightly, and only a faint air leak should be heard at the breather port.
  12. Remove the test equipment and install the spark plug.
  13. Install the hood.

What do air leaks from the carburetor indicate?

  • Slight air leaks indicate “low-to-moderate” wear to the intake valve.
  • Excessive air leaks indicate a bad intake valve, which should be fixed or replaced.

What do air leaks from the crankcase breather indicate?

  • Slight air leaks are normal.
  • Excessive air leaks indicate bad rings or cylinder wall, in which case the rings should be replaced and the cylinder honed, or use a short block.

What do air leaks from the exhaust outlet indicate?

  • Slight air leaks indicate “low-to-moderate” wear to the intake valve.
  • Excessive air leaks indicate a bad exhaust valve, which should be fixed or replaced.

What do the gauge color codes on the cylinder leakdown tester indicate?

  • Green (low): Compression is good.
  • Yellow (moderate): Compression is borderline.
  • Red (high): Compression is bad.

What is the reason for performing the automatic compression release (ACR) test?

To determine if the automatic compression release is opening the exhaust valve properly.

What equipment is needed for the automatic compression release (ACR) test?

  • JDM-74A-5 Ignition Test Plug
  • Dial Indicator With Magnetic Base

What is the procedure for performing an automatic compression release (ACR) test?

  1. Park the machine and allow the engine to cool.
  2. Remove the hood.
  3. Remove the rocker arm cover.
  4. Remove the spark plug and use the JDM-74A-5 Ignition Test Plug to ground the high tension lead to protect the ignition system while turning the flywheel.
  5. Use the flywheel mounting cap screw to turn the flywheel clockwise until the intake valve opens fully.
  6. Then slowly turn the flywheel clockwise further to observe that the automatic compression release mechanism (ACR) on the camshaft is functioning:
    • The exhaust valve must begin to open as the intake valve is nearing its closed position.
    • The exhaust valve must continue to open for a distance after the intake valve is fully closed.
    • The exhaust valve must return to its fully closed position as the flywheel is turned clockwise further.
  7. Use a dial indicator on the flat of the spring washer to measure exhaust valve ACR movement.
  8. Repeat Steps 5 and 6.
  9. Minimum exhaust valve ACR movement should be 0.76–1.02 mm (0.030–0.040 in.).
  10. Remove the dial indicator and base and install the rocker arm cover.
  11. Remove the test plug, install the spark plug [tighten spark plug to 40 N•m (354 lb-in.)], and install the hood.

What should I do if the exhaust valve DOES NOT open beyond the minimum specification?

The ACR mechanism is faulty, and the camshaft assembly must be replaced.

What is the reason for performing a crankcase vacuum test?

To measure the amount of crankcase vacuum, which ensures the crankcase is not pressurized. A pressurized crankcase will force oil past the seals and gaskets and through the breather into the carburetor.

What equipment is needed for the crankcase vacuum test?

  • JT05697 U-Tube Manometer Test Kit or
  • JT03503 Crankcase Vacuum Test Kit.

What is the procedure for performing a crankcase vacuum test using the JT05697 U-Tube Manometer Test Kit?

  1. Park the machine on a level surface.
  2. Raise the engine hood and remove the dipstick.
  3. Install an appropriate size rubber plug in the dipstick tube.
  4. Insert the barbed fitting in the rubber plug and connect the clear line to the barbed fitting.
  5. Start and run the engine at SLOW idle.
  6. Connect the clear line to the open U-Tube Manometer spigot.
  7. Run the engine at FAST idle.
  8. Record the crankcase vacuum reading. The manometer should show a minimum vacuum of 10.2 cm (4.0 in.) of water movement.
  9. Run the engine at SLOW idle. DO NOT TURN ENGINE OFF!
  10. Disconnect the clear line from the open manometer spigot.
  11. Turn the engine OFF.
  12. Remove the plug from the dipstick tube and install the dipstick.

What is the procedure for performing a crankcase vacuum test using the JT03503 Crankcase Vacuum Test Kit?

  1. Repeat Steps 1–3 in JT05697 test procedure.
  2. Assemble the gauge, clear line, and barbed fitting on the workbench.
  3. Hold a finger over the rubber plug hole to keep oil from spraying out. Start the engine and run at FAST idle.
  4. Connect the gauge, clear line, and barbed fitting to the rubber plug.
  5. Record the crankcase vacuum reading. The gauge should show a minimum vacuum of 10.2 cm (4.0 in.).
  6. Disconnect the barbed fitting, clear line, and gauge from the rubber plug while the engine is running at FAST idle. Hold your finger over the rubber plug hole to keep oil from spraying out.
  7. Move the throttle to SLOW idle and turn the engine OFF.
  8. Remove the rubber plug and install the dipstick.

What should I check if the crankcase vacuum is BELOW specification?

  • Breather reed valve clearance and condition.
  • Seals and gaskets for leakage.
  • Rocker arm cover O-ring for leakage.
  • Valve and valve seats for wear or damage.
  • Head warpage.
  • Rings, piston, and cylinder bore for wear or damage.

What is the reason for performing an engine oil pressure test?

To verify if the engine has enough oil pressure to lubricate internal components.

What equipment is needed for the engine oil pressure test?

  • JT07262 Oil Pressure Test Kit
  • JT05487 Fitting
  • JT03017 Hose
  • JT03262 Coupler
  • JT07034 Gauge

What is the procedure for performing the engine oil pressure test at the oil filter base?

  1. Park the machine on a level surface, turn the key switch OFF, and allow the engine to cool.
  2. Remove the oil filter. Use a piece of cardboard or a plastic bag to channel filter oil into the drain pan.
  3. Wipe the filter flange clean and install the pressure test kit to the oil filter flange.
  4. Check the engine oil level, and bring the level to the full mark.
  5. Monitor oil pressure during cranking; if oil pressure is below 28 kPa (4 psi)—STOP the engine immediately and correct the cause before continuing.
  6. Start and run the engine at MEDIUM idle for five minutes to bring the engine to operating temperature.
  7. Record oil pressure at FAST idle (3350 ±50 rpm).
  8. Record oil pressure at SLOW idle (1650 ±75 rpm).
  9. STOP the engine and allow it to cool.
  10. Remove the test equipment and install a new oil filter.
  11. Run the engine for 30 seconds, STOP the engine, and check the crankcase oil level—bring to the full mark before operating.

What are the oil pressure specifications?

  • FAST Idle Relief (maximum): 413.7 kPa (60 psi)
  • FAST Idle (minimum): 103.4 kPa (15 psi)
  • SLOW Idle (minimum): 28 kPa (4 psi)

What is the procedure for performing the engine oil pressure test at the pressure switch port?

  1. Park the machine on a level surface, turn the key switch OFF, and allow the engine to cool.
  2. Check the engine oil level, and bring the level to the full mark.
  3. Use a shop cloth to catch any oil spillage.
  4. Disconnect the oil pressure switch wiring lead.
  5. Remove the oil pressure switch and quickly install the oil pressure test hose into the test port.
  6. Quick couple the test gauge onto the test hose.
  7. Check the crankcase oil level, and bring the level to the full mark before testing.
  8. Monitor oil pressure during cranking; if oil pressure is below 28 kPa (4 psi)—STOP the engine immediately and correct the cause before continuing.
  9. Start and warm the engine to operating temperature.
  10. Record oil pressure at FAST idle (3350 ± 50 rpm).
  11. Record oil pressure at SLOW idle (1650 ±75 rpm).
  12. STOP the engine and allow it to cool.
  13. Remove the test equipment, install the oil pressure switch [tighten to 7.9 N•m (70 lb-in.)], connect the wiring lead, and check the crankcase oil level—bring to the full mark before operating.

What should I do if the FAST idle pressure is above the maximum specification?

Check oil passages for restrictions and the oil relief valve for incorrect spring tension or stuck closed.

What should I do if the FAST idle pressure is below the minimum specification?

Check oil pump wear, relief valve for a weak spring or stuck open, pickup plugged, or crankshaft bearings and seals for leaks or wear.

What should I do if the SLOW idle pressure is above the minimum specification, but the warning light is ON?

Check the oil pressure switch for defects or an incorrect rating.

What should I do if the SLOW idle pressure is below the minimum specification, but the warning light is NOT ON?

Check for major restrictions, internal engine wear, or the oil pressure switch is defective.

What is the reason for performing fuel pump tests?

To determine fuel pump pressure and flow to the carburetor.

What equipment is needed for fuel pump tests?

  • JDG356 Pressure Gauge
  • JDM-74A-5 Ignition Test Plug
  • Graduated Container

What is the procedure for performing fuel pump tests?

  1. Park the machine on a level surface.
  2. STOP the engine and allow it to cool.
  3. Check for sufficient volume of fuel in the tank to perform the test.
  4. Disconnect the spark plug wire and ground it with a JDM-74A-5 Ignition Test Plug. This prevents damage to the ignition system while cranking the engine during the test.
  5. On the left side of the engine, put a shop cloth below the carburetor inlet to soak up any escaping fuel.
  6. Slide the fuel line clamps to the right off the hose.
  7. Disconnect the hose from the carburetor inlet tube and metal fuel line, respectively. Wipe up any spilled fuel immediately.
  8. Connect the JDG356 Pressure Gauge hose to the metal fuel line.
  9. Crank the engine for 3–5 seconds only. Record the pressure; the minimum pressure should be 6.12 kPa (0.90 psi). Turn the key switch OFF.
  10. Remove the pressure test equipment and install a long piece of fuel hose onto the metal fuel line and a large graduated beaker.
  11. Crank the engine for 15 seconds only; otherwise, the starter may be damaged. Record the flow; the minimum flow should be 30 ml (1.0 U.S. oz).
  12. Remove the test equipment, reconnect the hose to the metal fuel line, then the carburetor inlet tube, fasten with fuel line clamps, and reconnect the spark plug lead.

What should I do if the fuel pump pressure and flow DO meet specifications?

Check the carburetor inlet tube, inlet needle, and float for proper function, obstructions, varnish/sticking conditions, or other problems.

What should I do if the fuel pump pressure or flow DO NOT meet specifications?

Check the fuel lines, in-line filter, fuel tank, pickup tube, and fill cap vent for restrictions and retest.

What should I do if, after retesting, the fuel pump pressure or flow still DO NOT meet specifications?

Replace the fuel pump.

What equipment is needed for a spark plug gap adjustment?

  • Wire Feeler Gauge

What is the procedure for spark plug gap adjustment?

  1. Park the machine, turn the key switch OFF, and allow the engine to cool.
  2. Remove the spark plug.
  3. Adjust spark plug gap if necessary.
  4. Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

What is the procedure to remove/install the throttle control lever and cable assembly?

  1. Remove the steering wheel.
  2. Remove the battery.
  3. Remove the green plastic side panels from both sides.
  4. Disconnect the throttle control cable at the engine.
  5. Remove the park brake lever and linkage.
  6. Remove the oil pressure indicator light from the socket.
  7. Remove the four cap screws and washers securing the instrument panel.
  8. Remove the two cap screws and the throttle control lever and cable assembly.

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal. Adjust the throttle cable and choke plate.

What is the procedure for engine removal/installation?

  1. Disconnect the negative (−) battery cable at the battery.
  2. Remove the mower deck.
  3. Remove the engine hood.
  4. Remove the muffler.
  5. Drain the engine oil. Capacity with filter is approximately 1.8 L (1.9 U.S. qt) (3.8 U.S. pt).
  6. Remove the green plastic side panels from both sides.
  7. Disconnect the oil pressure switch wiring connector.
  8. Disconnect the engine harness connector.
  9. Remove the cap screw to remove the angle bracket and ground wires.
  10. Loosen the clamp and disconnect the throttle control cable.
  11. Remove the tie straps and fuel line clamp. Pull the headlight harness away from the engine.
  12. Disconnect the fuel line at the fuel pump and drain the fuel. Wipe up spilled fuel IMMEDIATELY.
  13. Disconnect the starter cable and harness connector.
  14. Remove the PTO clutch.
  15. Remove the drive sheave.
  16. Remove the four cap screws and remove the engine.

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal:

  • Tighten the engine mounting cap screws to 34 N•m (300 lb-in.).
  • Tighten the muffler mounting nuts to 24.4 N•m (216 lb-in.).
  • Fill the engine to the proper level with oil of the correct specifications.
  • Apply DuBois MPG-2® Multi-Purpose Grease— M79292 to the engine crankshaft before installing the engine drive sheave and PTO clutch.
  • Install the engine drive sheave and PTO clutch.
  • Adjust the throttle cable.

What is the procedure for muffler removal/installation?

  1. Remove the engine hood.
  2. Remove the four cap screws and the upper muffler shield.
  3. Remove the three cap screws and the lower muffler shield.
  4. Remove the exhaust manifold nuts and washers.
  5. Remove the muffler bracket cap screws.
  6. Remove the muffler and gasket.

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

  • Use new gaskets for installation.
  • Tighten the exhaust manifold nuts to 24.4 N•m (216 lb-in.).

What is the procedure for air cleaner service?

  1. Remove and disassemble the air cleaner.
  2. Wash the foam element in detergent and warm water. Rinse the element thoroughly to remove all traces of detergent. Squeeze out excess water—DO NOT ring out the element. Let the element air dry.
  3. Apply 12—15 drops of clean engine oil to the foam element. Squeeze out excess oil.
  4. Gently tap the paper element to remove dust.
  5. Inspect the paper element.
    • The element is still usable if you can see light through it and the element appears clean.
    • Replace if oily, dirty, or damaged in any way.
  6. Inspect the body, gasket, and base for damage. Replace parts as necessary.
  7. Assemble and install the air cleaner.
  8. Tighten the air cleaner housing nuts to 10 N•m (88 lb-in.).

What is the procedure for carburetor removal/installation?

  1. Drain fuel from the carburetor.
  2. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
  3. Pinch the fuel line to block fuel flow, then disconnect and plug the fuel line.
  4. Disconnect the fuel shutoff solenoid wire and linkage rods from the carburetor levers to remove the carburetor.

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

  • Use new gaskets for installation.
  • Tighten the air cleaner housing nuts to 10 N•m (88 lb-in.).
  • Adjust the carburetor.
  • Adjust the choke.

What is the procedure to clean/inspect/rebuild the carburetor?

  1. Disassemble the bowl, float, inlet needle, slow idle mixture screw, and spring.
  2. Clean the carburetor using pressurized carburetor cleaner and compressed air. Clean out all passages.
  3. DO NOT remove the idle port welch plug unless absolutely necessary. To remove, pierce with a sharp tool. Clean the chamber. Install a new plug using a flat tool about the same size as the plug. Flatten the plug but do not force it below the surface of the cavity.
  4. If the inlet seat was leaking or damaged, it can be replaced by pulling it out with a drill bit or screw. Always replace with new parts. Press in the new seat until it bottoms in the bore.
  5. If the throttle and choke plates were removed, use a high-strength thread lock and sealer on the small retaining screws. Install screws slightly loose. Apply pressure on the shafts to center the plates in the bore, then tighten the screws to 1 N•m (10 lb-in.).
  6. The main jet can be pressed out. Replace with a new jet. Press the new jet in until it is flush with the surface.
  7. Perform Slow Idle Speed Adjustment.

What is the procedure for self-relieving choke replacement?

  1. Remove and discard the dust cover.
  2. Remove and discard the choke plate and screws.
  3. Remove and discard the choke shaft and spring.
  4. Remove and discard the bushing using a blind hole puller or No. 3—4 mm (5/32 in.) screw extractor by clamping the extractor in a vise and turning the carburetor onto the extractor; then while pulling on the carburetor, lightly tap the casting with a rubber hammer.
  5. Thoroughly clean the carburetor body.
  6. Install the new bushing onto the new lever and align the slot in the bottom of the lever over the wide-open stop pin.
  7. For proper alignment of the upper bushing and lower shaft hole, use a 4.76 mm (3/16 in.) drill blank to align the bushing as it is pressed into the casting until it bottoms out.
  8. Install the choke shaft and spring assembly with the bottom spring tang installed in the second notch from the right.
  9. Apply John Deere Thread Lock and Sealer (medium strength), TY9370 or T43512, to cap screws.
  10. Loosely install the choke plate onto the choke shaft.
  11. Align the choke plate with a 0.25 mm (0.010 in.) feeler gauge between the top right edge of the choke plate and the venturi bore.
  12. Then, while pushing down on top of the choke shaft, tighten the screws to 1 N•m (10 lb-in.).
  13. Test the choke mechanism as follows:
    • Using the choke lever, close the choke plate—the choke lever and choke plate should move in unison.
    • While holding the choke lever in the closed position, push on the long side of the choke plate—it should open then spring closed freely.
    • Move the choke lever into the wide-open position—the choke plate should be against the wide-open stop pin.
  14. Install the new dust cover until it snaps into place.
  15. Install the carburetor on the engine and recheck the choke system for freedom of movement as follows:
    • Move the wire link into the choke (fully closed) position and then release it—the wire link should move freely in both directions.

How do you replace the fuel pump?

  1. Pinch the fuel line to block fuel flow, then disconnect the fuel supply line.
  2. Disconnect the fuel pump-to-carburetor fuel line.
  3. Remove the cap screws and fuel pump.

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

  • Make sure the fuel pump lever is positioned to the RIGHT of the camshaft (when looking at the fuel pump mounting pad). Incorrect installation may result in fuel pump and engine damage.
  • Use new gaskets for installation.
  • Tighten the hex flange screws to specifications.

Fuel Pump Hex Flange Screw Torque:

  • New Block: 9.0 N•m (80 lb-in.)
  • Reused Block: 7.8 N•m (65 lb-in.)

How do you inspect the breather?

  1. Remove the rocker arm cover.
  2. Remove the cap screw, plate, and reed.
  3. Check that the breather opening is clear.
  4. Replace the reed if it does not lie flat on the casting.
  5. Clean the mating surface of any sealant residue.
  6. Install the rocker arm cover.

How do you remove/install the blower housing?

  1. Disconnect the battery negative (–) cable.
  2. Remove the air cleaner assembly.
  3. Disconnect the spark plug lead.
  4. Remove the dipstick tube.
  5. Remove the cap screw.
  6. Remove the three cap screws from the fan screen retainer.
  7. Remove the five cap screws and fan screen and protector.
  8. Remove the blower housing.
  9. Disconnect the voltage regulator/rectifier ground wire and wiring connector.
  10. Remove the muffler brackets.
  11. Remove the harness bracket.
  12. Disconnect the breather hose.
  13. Remove the cylinder head covers.

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

How do you remove/install the flywheel?

  1. Remove the blower housing.
  2. Remove the four fan cap screws and washers and fan.
  3. Hold the flywheel with a strap wrench. Remove the cap screw.
  4. Remove the flywheel using a puller.
  5. Inspect the flywheel for cracks, chips, and broken teeth. Replace as necessary.
  6. Inspect for a sheared or partially sheared key; replace as necessary.

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

  • Hold the flywheel with a strap wrench. Tighten the cap screw to 68 N•m (50 lb-ft).
  • Tighten the fan cap screws to 10 N•m (88 lb-in.).
  • Check the ignition module air gap.

How do you remove/install the rocker arm cover?

  1. Disconnect the breather hose.
  2. Remove the five cap screws, muffler brackets, and rocker arm cover.
  3. Clean the mating surface of any sealant residue.

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

  • Apply TY15130 John Deere Form-in-Place Gasket to mating surfaces.
  • Tighten rocker cover cap screws, in sequence illustrated to specifications.

How do you inspect the push rod?

  • Inspect the push rod for a bend using V-blocks and a dial indicator. Turn the rod slowly and read the variation on the indicator. Replace if the variation is greater than 0.76 mm (0.030 in.).

How do you remove/install the cylinder head and valves?

  1. Remove the blower housing.
  2. Remove the rocker arms.
  3. Remove the spark plug.
  4. Remove the cap screws in sequence shown, spacer, and cylinder head. Discard the gasket and clean the head and block.

Installation is done in reverse order of removal.

  • Install the new gasket.
  • Tighten the spark plug to 20 N•m (15 lb-ft).
  • Tighten the cylinder head cap screws in sequence to specifications.
    • Initial Torque: 20 N•m (15 lb-ft)
    • Final Torque: 41 N•m (30 lb-ft)
  • Install the rocker arm cover.
  • Install the blower housing.

How do you disassemble/assemble the cylinder head and valves?

  1. Compress the intake and exhaust springs using an appropriate size spring compressor.
  2. Remove the keepers, spring caps, springs, and valves.
  3. Install valve components.
  4. Compress the spring and install the keepers in grooves.
  5. Inspect all parts for wear or damage.

Assembly is done in reverse order of disassembly.

  • Install the new valve stem seal on the intake valve.

How do you inspect the cylinder head?

  1. Remove carbon deposits and clean the gasket surface with SCOTCH-BRITE® abrasive or equivalent.
  2. Inspect the head for cracks or damage. Make sure the oil drain port is open.
  3. Check for distortion at several points with a feeler gauge. Replace the head if the distortion is more than 0.076 mm (0.003 in.).

How do you inspect the valve guides?

  1. Clean inside of valve guide. A standard valve guide reamer can be used.
  2. Measure the inside diameter of the guide with a gauge.

Valve Guide I.D. Specifications:

Intake Guide:

  • Standard: 7.038—7.058 mm (0.277—0.278 in.)
  • Standard (Wear Limit): 7.134 mm (0.281 in.)
  • Oversize: 7.283—7.308 mm (0.287—0.288 in.)
  • Oversize (Wear Limit): 7.384 mm (0.291 in.)

Exhaust Guide:

  • Standard: 7.038—7.058 mm (0.277—0.278 in.)
  • Standard (Wear Limit): 7.159 mm (0.282 in.)
  • Oversize: 7.238—7.308 mm (0.285—0.288 in.)
  • Oversize (Wear Limit): 7.409 mm (0.301 in.)
  • If the valve guide is worn beyond the standard wear limit, ream the guide using the JDG705 Oversize Reaming Tool. If the guide is worn beyond the oversize wear limit, replace the cylinder head.

What are the circuit terminations points for the A2 Interlock Module X2 Connector?

  • Terminal 1: N1
  • Terminal 1: F1

What are the circuit terminations points for the A2 Interlock Module X3 Connector?

  • Terminal 1: W1 Splice
  • Terminal 2: S4
  • Terminal 4: X11 or S3
  • Terminal 5: S5
  • Terminal 6: M1

What are the circuit terminations points for the A2 Interlock Module X4 Connector?

  • Terminal 3: Y1
  • Terminal 4: W1 Splice
  • Terminal 5: S4
  • Terminal 6: W2
  • Terminal 8: S2

What are the circuit termination points for the E2 Headlights X11 Connector?

  • Terminal 1: W1 Splice
  • Terminal 2: S5

What are the circuit termination points for the G1 Battery X1 Connector?

  • Terminal 1: F1 Splice

What are the circuit termination points for the H1 Battery Discharge Light Connector?

  • Terminal 1: N1
  • Terminal 2: W1 Splice

What are the circuit termination points for the H2 Oil Pressure Light Connector?

  • Terminal 1: W1 Splice
  • Terminal 2: B1

What are the circuit termination points for the M1 Starting Motor Connector?

  • Terminal 1: X3

What are the circuit termination points for the N1 Rectifier/Regulator Connector?

  • Terminal 1: W1 Splice
  • Terminal 2: W1 Splice
  • Terminal 3: X1
  • Terminal 4: W2
  • Terminal 5: H1
  • Terminal 6: W2

What are the circuit termination points for the S2 Seat Switch Connector?

  • Terminal 1: W1 Splice
  • Terminal 2: X4

What are the circuit termination points for the S4 PTO Switch Connector (Early Model)?

  • Terminal 1: W1 Splice
  • Terminal 2: S3
  • Terminal 2: X4
  • Terminal 4: X3
  • Terminal 5: Y2

What are the circuit termination points for the S4 PTO Switch Connector (Late Model)?

  • Terminal 3: S3
  • Terminal 3: X4
  • Terminal 4: Y2
  • Terminal 6: X3
  • Terminal 8: W1 Splice

What are the circuit termination points for the S5 Headlight Switch Connectors?

  • Terminal 1: X3
  • Terminal 2: X9

What are the circuit termination points for the W2 Engine Wiring Harness—X5 Connector?

  • Terminal 1: X4
  • Terminal 2: N1
  • Terminal 3: N1

What are the circuit termination points for the S3 Neutral Start Switch/Brake Switch Connector?

  • Terminal 1: X3
  • Terminal 2: S4

What are the circuit termination points for the Y1 Fuel Shut-Off Solenoid—X7 Connector?

  • Terminal 1: X4

What are the circuit termination points for the Y2 PTO Clutch—X9 Connector?

  • Terminal 1: S4
  • Terminal 2: W1 Splice

What are the circuit terminations points for the A2 Interlock Module X2 Connector?

  • Terminal 1: N1
  • Terminal 1: F1

What are the circuit terminations points for the A2 Interlock Module X3 Connector?

  • Terminal 1: W1 Splice
  • Terminal 2: S4
  • Terminal 5: S5
  • Terminal 6: M1

What are the circuit terminations points for the A2 Interlock Module X4 Connector?

  • Terminal 1: S3
  • Terminal 3: X8
  • Terminal 4: W1 Splice
  • Terminal 5: S4
  • Terminal 7: H3
  • Terminal 8: S2

What are the circuit termination points for the E3 Headlights X10 Connector?

  • Terminal 1: W1 Splice
  • Terminal 2: S5

What are the circuit termination points for the G1 Battery X1 Connector?

  • Terminal 1: F1 Splice

What are the circuit termination points for the H1 Battery Discharge Light Connector?

  • Terminal 1: N1
  • Terminal 2: W1 Splice

What are the circuit termination points for the H2 Oil Pressure Light Connector?

  • Terminal 1: W1 Splice, H3
  • Terminal 2: X8

What are the circuit termination points for the H3 Coolant Temperature Light Connector?

  • Terminal 1: H2
  • Terminal 2: X4
  • Terminal 2: X8

What are the circuit termination points for the M1 Starting Motor Connector?

  • Terminal 1: X3

What are the circuit termination points for the N1 Rectifier/Regulator Connector?

  • Terminal 1: W1 Splice
  • Terminal 2: W1 Splice
  • Terminal 3: X1
  • Terminal 4: X8
  • Terminal 5: H1
  • Terminal 6: X8

What are the circuit termination points for the S2 Seat Switch Connector?

  • Terminal 1: W1 Splice
  • Terminal 2: X4

What are the circuit termination points for the S3 Brake Switch Connector?

  • Terminal 1: X4
  • Terminal 2: S4

What are the circuit termination points for the S4 PTO Switch Connector (Early Model)?

  • Terminal 1: W1 Splice
  • Terminal 2: S3
  • Terminal 2: X4
  • Terminal 4: X3
  • Terminal 5: Y2

What are the circuit termination points for the S4 PTO Switch Connector (Late Model)?

  • Terminal 3: S3
  • Terminal 3: X4
  • Terminal 4: Y2
  • Terminal 6: X3
  • Terminal 8: W1 Splice

What are the circuit termination points for the S5 Headlight Switch Connector?

  • Terminal 1: X3
  • Terminal 2: E3

What are the circuit termination points for the W2 Engine Wiring Harness—X5 Connector?

  • Terminal 1: H3
  • Terminal 3: H2
  • Terminal 4: N1
  • Terminal 5: X4
  • Terminal 6: N1

What are the circuit termination points for the Y2 PTO Clutch—X9 Connector?

  • Terminal 1: S4
  • Terminal 2: W1 Splice

What are the circuit terminations points for the A2 Interlock Module X2 Connector?

  • Terminal 1: N1
  • Terminal 1: F4

What are the circuit terminations points for the A2 Interlock Module X3 Connector?

  • Terminal 1: W1 Splice
  • Terminal 2: S4
  • Terminal 4: S3
  • Terminal 5: S5
  • Terminal 6: M1

What are the circuit terminations points for the A2 Interlock Module X4 Connector?

  • Terminal 3: Y1
  • Terminal 4: W1 Splice
  • Terminal 5: S4
  • Terminal 6: W2
  • Terminal 8: S2

What are the circuit termination points for the E2 Headlights X11 Connector?

  • Terminal 1: W1 Splice
  • Terminal 2: S5

What are the circuit termination points for the G1 Battery X1 Connector?

  • Terminal 1: F1 Splice

What are the circuit termination points for the H2 Oil Pressure Light Connector?

  • Terminal 1: W1 Splice
  • Terminal 1: W1 Splice
  • Terminal 2: W2

What are the circuit termination points for the M1 Starting Motor Connector?

  • Terminal 1: X3

What are the circuit termination points for the S2 Seat Switch Connector?

  • Terminal 1: W1 Splice
  • Terminal 2: X4

What are the circuit termination points for the S4 PTO Switch Connector?

  • Terminal 3: S3
  • Terminal 3: X4
  • Terminal 4: Y2
  • Terminal 6: X3
  • Terminal 8: W1 Splice

What are the circuit termination points for the S5 Headlight Switch Connectors?

  • Terminal 1: X3
  • Terminal 2: X11

What are the circuit termination points for the W2 Engine Wiring Harness—X5 Connector?

  • Terminal 1: X4
  • Terminal 2: F4
  • Terminal 3: H2
  • Terminal 4: X4

What are the circuit termination points for the S3 Neutral Start Switch Connector?

  • Terminal 1: X3
  • Terminal 2: S4

What are the circuit termination points for the Y2 PTO Clutch—X9 Connector?

  • Terminal 1: S4
  • Terminal 2: W1 Splice

What should I check if I have starter cranking problems?

See power circuit diagnosis. See cranking circuit diagnosis. Check ground circuit. Test battery and battery connections.

What should I check if the engine cranks but will not start?

See ignition circuit diagnosis. See fuel shutoff solenoid circuit diagnosis.

What should I check if there is no spark?

See ignition circuit diagnosis.

What should I check if the engine will not shut off?

Check for a shorted circuit.

What should I check if a component is operating improperly with the switch?

Check for a shorted circuit.

What should I check if the battery goes dead, discharges, or over charges?

See charging circuit diagnosis.

What should I check for oil light problems?

See instrument circuit diagnosis.

What should I check for discharge light problems?

See charging circuit diagnosis. See instrument circuit diagnosis.

What should I check for coolant light problems?

See instrument circuit diagnosis.

What should I check for instrument light problems?

See instrument circuit diagnosis.

What should I check for headlight problems?

See headlight circuit diagnosis.

What is the function of the unswitched power circuit?

Provides unswitched power to the primary circuit whenever the battery is connected. This circuit is protected by the fusible link. This link is a short length of wire which is designed to protect the main wiring harness and will fail if the current load becomes excessive.

What are the operating conditions for unswitched circuits?

Voltage must be present at the following components with the key switch in the OFF position:

  • Battery positive (+) terminal.
  • Battery terminal of starter solenoid.
  • Battery terminal of key switch.
  • Battery terminal of voltage regulator/rectifier.

What is the function of the switched power circuit?

Provides switched power to the primary machine operating components by means of a key switch. In addition to the fusible link, this circuit is protected by two 15-amp fuses.

What are the operating conditions for switched circuits?

Voltage must be present at the following components with the key switch in the RUN position:

  • All Unswitched Locations.
  • A2 Interlock Module:
    • F2 and F3 Fuse Terminals.
    • X3 Connector—Terminals 1 and 5.
    • Terminals “1” and “5” of X4 connector.
  • S2 Seat Switch—Yellow/Black wire.
  • PTO Switch—Yellow/Black wire.
  • S5 Headlight Switch—Yellow/Black wire.
  • N1 Voltage Regulator/Rectifier.
  • H1 Battery Discharge Light—Brown/White wire.
  • H2 Oil Pressure Light—Yellow wire.
  • B1 Engine Oil Pressure Switch—Tan wire.
  • S3 Neutral Start/Brake Switch—Purple wire terminal.
  • N1 Voltage Regulator/Rectifier.
  • S4 PTO Switch:
    • Yellow/Black wire terminal.
    • Purple wire terminal.
    • Purple/White wire terminal.
  • H3 Engine Coolant Temperature Light.

What are the test conditions for power circuit diagnosis?

  • Park brake ENGAGED.
  • Key switch in OFF position.
  • Meter negative (-) lead on battery negative (-) terminal.
  • Meter positive (+) lead on battery (+) terminal.
  • Check connection(s) for corrosion and looseness when checking/testing.

What are the test conditions for switched circuits when the engine is not running?

  • Key switch in RUN position—engine not running.
  • Transmission in NEUTRAL (LX172) or park brake engaged (LX176/LX186).
  • (Neutral start/brake switch CLOSED.)

What should be the reading when testing the battery positive (+) terminal?

Normal: 11.8—13.2 volts. If Not Normal: Test battery. (See BATTERY TEST).

What should be the reading when testing the starter solenoid to motor bolt—battery terminal?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check battery cables and clamps. Clean and tighten connections.

What should be the reading when testing the interlock module—connector X2?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check orange wire No. 215, fusible link (F1), red wire No. 210 and red wire (X2 to key switch). Check connections.

What should be the reading when testing the voltage regulator/rectifier—battery terminal?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check red wire No. 205 and connections.

What should be the reading when testing the key switch—”A” terminal?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Replace interlock module.

What should be the reading when testing the interlock module—terminal X3—1?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check fuse (F3), if OK, replace interlock module.

What should be the reading when testing the interlock module—terminals X3—5?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check fuse (F2), if OK, replace interlock module.

What should be the reading when testing the voltage regulator/rectifier?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check yellow/black wires No. 410 and 411 (X3 to N1) and connections.

What should be the reading when testing the seat switch?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check yellow/black wire No. 414 (X3 to S2) and connections.

What should be the reading when testing the battery discharge light?

Normal: Light is ON, Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check brown wire No. 600 and connections.

What should be the reading when testing the PTO switch?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check yellow/black wire No. 410 and 415 and connections.

What should be the reading when testing the engine oil pressure light?

Normal: Light is ON, Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check yellow wire No. 500, yellow/ black wire No. 410 and connections.

What should be the reading when testing the headlight switch?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check yellow/black wire No. 412 (X3 to S5).

What is the function of the cranking circuit?

The cranking system is used to energize the starting motor.

What are the operating conditions for the cranking circuit?

  • Key switch in START position.
  • LX172—Transmission in NEUTRAL (neutral start switch CLOSED).
  • LX176/LX186—Park brake engaged (brake switch CLOSED).
  • PTO switch in OFF position.

What are the test conditions for cranking circuit diagnosis?

  • Key Switch in STOP position.
  • LX172—transmission in NEUTRAL (neutral start switch CLOSED).
  • LX176/LX186—park brake ENGAGED (brake switch CLOSED).
  • PTO switch in OFF position.
  • Check connection(s) for corrosion and looseness when checking/testing.
  • Meter negative (-) lead on battery negative (-) terminal.

What are the test conditions for cranking circuit diagnosis when the engine is not running?

  • Key switch in RUN position—engine not running.

What are the test conditions for cranking circuit diagnosis when the spark plug is lead disconnected?

  • Spark plug lead disconnected and grounded.
  • Key switch in START position.

What should be the reading when testing the PTO switch?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Test PTO switch. (See PTO SWITCH TEST).

What should be the reading when testing the neutral start/brake switch?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Test purple wire No. 705 or purple/ white wire—W5 harness. Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Test neutral start/brake switch. (See NEUTRAL START/BRAKE SWITCH TEST).

What should be the reading when testing the Interlock module—terminal X3—4?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check purple wire No. 710 or purple wire—W5 harness and connections.

What should be the reading when testing the Interlock module—terminal X3—6?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Replace interlock module.

What should be the reading when testing the starter solenoid?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check purple/white wire No. 721 and connections.

What is the function of the ignition circuit?

To create a spark that ignites the fuel/air mixture in the engine.

What are the operating conditions for the ignition circuit?

  • Key switch in START or RUN position.
  • Operator on seat (Seat switch CLOSED).
    • PTO switch in OFF position.
    • LX172—transmission in NEUTRAL (neutral start switch CLOSED).
    • LX176/LX186—park brake ENGAGED (brake switch CLOSED).

What are the test conditions for the ignition circuit diagnosis?

  • Key switch in START position.
  • PTO switch in OFF position.
  • LX172—transmission in NEUTRAL (neutral start switch CLOSED).
  • LX176/LX186—park brake ENGAGED (brake switch CLOSED).
  • Engine connector (X5) DISCONNECTED.
  • Check connection(s) for corrosion and looseness when checking/testing.
  • Meter negative (-) lead on battery negative (-) terminal.

What are the test conditions for the ignition circuit diagnosis when the engine is not running?

  • Key switch in RUN position—engine not running.
  • Engine connector (X5) CONNECTED.
  • Operator on seat (Seat switch CLOSED).

What should I check if there is no spark at the spark plug/spark tester?

Normal: Spark test indicates hot blue spark. No spark present: Test ignition coil and ignition module. Check armature air gap, and flywheel magnets. Spark present: Check spark plug gap and condition of spark plug. If plug is good, continue testing ground circuit. (Perform SPARK TEST).

What should be the reading when testing the Interlock module—terminal X3—4?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check purple wire No. 710, W5 harness and connections.

What should be the reading when testing the seat switch?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check yellow/black wires No. 414 and 410 and connections. Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Test seat switch. (See SEAT SWITCH TEST).

What should be the reading when testing the Interlock module—terminal X4—8?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check pink wire No. 800 and connections.

What should be the reading when testing the Interlock module—terminal X4—3?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Replace interlock module.

What should be the reading when testing the engine ground?

Normal: Maximum 0.1 ohms resistance. If Not Normal: Check battery negative cable and shielded ground connections.

What should be the reading when testing the Interlock module—terminal X4—4?

Normal: Maximum 0.1 ohms resistance. If Not Normal: Check black wires No. 101 and 102 and harness to engine ground connection.

What should be the reading when testing the ignition module?

Normal: Maximum 0.1 ohms resistance. If Not Normal: Check ignition module-to-engine connection. Replace ignition module. Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check white wires and connections, if OK, replace ignition module.

What should I do if the spark is produced when testing the ignition module?

Normal: Spark produced. If Not Normal: Replace ignition module. Check flywheel air gap and magnet.

What is the function of the charging circuit?

To maintain battery voltage between 11.8 and 13.2 volts DC.

What are the operating conditions for the charging circuit?

  • Key switch in RUN position.
  • Engine running.

What are the test conditions for the charging circuit diagnosis when the key switch is in the STOP position?

  • Key switch in STOP position.
  • Check connection(s) for corrosion and looseness when checking/testing.
  • Meter negative (-) lead on battery negative (-) terminal.

What are the test conditions for the charging circuit diagnosis when the engine is not running?

  • Key switch in RUN position—engine not running.

What are the test conditions for the charging circuit diagnosis when the engine is running?

  • Key switch in RUN position—engine running.

What should be the reading when testing the Interlock module—connector X2?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check orange wire No. 215, fusible link (F1), red wire No. 210 and red wire (X2 to key switch). Check connections.

What should be the reading when testing the voltage regulator/rectifier?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check red wire No. 205, and connections. Normal: Maximum 0.1 ohms resistance. If Not Normal: Check battery negative cable, shielded ground, black wires No. 101 and 102. Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check brown wire No. 600 and connections. If OK, replace voltage regulator/rectifier. Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check yellow/black wires No. 410 and 411 and connections. Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check brown wire No. 600 and connections. If OK, replace discharge light.

What should be the reading when testing the discharge light?

Normal: Maximum 0.1 ohms resistance. If Not Normal: Check black wires No. 101 and 103.

What should be the reading when testing the Interlock module—terminal X3—1?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check fuse (F3), if OK, replace interlock module.

What should I do if the stator connector does not have voltage output to specifications?

Normal: Voltage output to specifications. If Not Normal: Check brown/white wire No. 595, brown/yellow wire No. 590 and black wires. If OK, replace voltage regulator/rectifier. (perform UNREGULATED VOLTAGE OUTPUT TEST).

What should I do if the voltage regulator/rectifier does not have regulated amperage to specification?

Normal: Regulated amperage to specification. Perform UNREGULATED VOLTAGE OUTPUT TEST. (perform REGULATED AMPERAGE OUTPUT TEST).

What is the function of the PTO circuit when the PTO is OFF?

To provide power to energize the PTO relay and clutch.

What are the operating conditions for the PTO circuit when the PTO is OFF?

  • Key switch in RUN position.
  • PTO switch in OFF position.
  • Operator on seat (Seat switch CLOSED).
    • PTO switch in OFF position.
    • LX172—transmission in NEUTRAL (neutral start switch CLOSED).
    • LX176/LX186—park brake ENGAGED (brake switch CLOSED).

What are the test conditions for PTO circuit diagnosis?

  • Key switch in RUN position—engine not running.
  • PTO switch in OFF position.
  • LX172—transmission in NEUTRAL (neutral start switch CLOSED).
  • LX176/LX186—park brake ENGAGED (brake switch CLOSED).
  • Operator on seat (Seat switch CLOSED).
  • Check connection(s) for corrosion and looseness when checking/testing.
  • Meter negative (-) lead on battery negative (-) terminal.

What should be the reading when testing the Interlock module—terminal X4—5?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check purple/white wire No. 706.

What should be the reading when testing the neutral start/brake switch?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Test purple wire No. 705 and connections. Check purple/white wire—W5 harness and connections (LX172). Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Test neutral start/brake switch. (See NEUTRAL START/BRAKE SWITCH TEST).

What should be the reading when testing the seat switch?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Test yellow/black wires No. 410 and 414. Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Test seat switch. (See SEAT SWITCH TEST).

What should be the reading when testing the Interlock module—terminal X4—8?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check pink wire No. 800 and connections.

What are the test conditions for PTO circuit diagnosis when the key switch is in the STOP position?

  • Key switch in STOP position.

What are the test conditions for PTO circuit diagnosis when the PTO switch is in the ON position?

  • Key switch in RUN position—engine not running.
  • PTO switch in ON position.

What should be the reading when testing the Interlock module—terminal X4—4?

Normal: Maximum 0.1 ohms resistance. If Not Normal: Check black wires No. 101 and 102 and harness to engine ground connection.

What should be the reading when testing the PTO switch?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check blue wire No. 750 and connections. If OK, replace interlock module. Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Test PTO switch. (See PTO SWITCH TEST).

What should be the reading when testing the PTO clutch?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check blue wire No. 755 and connections. Normal: Greater than 0—less than 0.2 volts. If Not Normal: Greater than 0.2 volts: check PTO clutch ground circuit. 0 volts: test PTO clutch. (See PTO CLUTCH TEST). Normal: PTO clutch air gap within specification. If Not Normal: Adjust air gap. (See PTO CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT).

What is the function of the PTO circuit when the PTO is ON?

To provide power to energize or de-energize the PTO clutch when desired by the operator.

What are the operating conditions for the PTO circuit when the PTO is ON?

  • Key switch in RUN position.
  • PTO switch in ON position.
  • Operator on seat (Seat switch CLOSED).

What is the function of the low oil pressure light circuit?

To light the low oil pressure light to alert the operator that oil pressure is too low for continued operation.

What are the operating conditions for the low oil pressure light circuit?

  • Key switch in RUN position.
  • Oil pressure switch CLOSED (engine OFF or low oil pressure).

What are the test conditions for low oil pressure light circuit diagnosis?

  • Key switch in RUN position—engine not running.
  • Engine oil pressure switch lead DISCONNECTED.
  • Check connection(s) for corrosion and looseness when checking/testing.
  • Meter negative (-) lead on battery negative (-) terminal.

What are the test conditions for low oil pressure light circuit diagnosis when the key switch is in the STOP position?

  • Key switch in STOP position.

What are the test conditions for low oil pressure light circuit diagnosis when the engine is running?

  • Key switch in RUN position—engine running.

What should be the reading when testing the low oil pressure light?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check yellow/black wire No. 410 and yellow wire No. 500.

What should be the reading when testing the low oil pressure switch?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check tan wire 620, low oil pressure light and connections. Normal: Maximum 0.1 ohms resistance. If Not Normal: Check ground circuit. If OK, replace engine oil pressure switch. Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check tan wire No. 620 and connections. Normal: No continuity to ground (maximum resistance). If Not Normal: Check engine oil pressure. (See ENGINE OIL PRESSURE TEST). If OK, replace engine oil pressure switch.

What is the function of the headlight circuit?

To provide power to the headlights for illumination if desired by the operator.

What are the operating conditions for the headlight circuit?

  • Key switch in RUN position.
  • Headlight switch in ON position.

What are the test conditions for headlight circuit diagnosis?

  • Key switch in RUN position.
  • Headlight switch in ON position.
  • Check connection(s) for corrosion and looseness when checking/testing.
  • Meter negative (-) lead on battery negative (-) terminal.

What are the test conditions for headlight circuit diagnosis when the key switch is in the OFF position?

  • Key switch in OFF position.

What should be the reading when testing the headlight switch?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check yellow/black wire No. 412. Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Test headlight switch. (See HEADLIGHT SWITCH TEST).

What should be the reading when testing the headlight connector?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check yellow/white wire No. 450, black wires (from connector to headlights) and connections. Normal: Headlights ON. If Not Normal: Test bulbs.

What should be the reading when testing the headlight ground?

Normal: Maximum 0.1 ohms resistance. If Not Normal: Check battery negative (-) cable, shielded ground, black wires 101 and 111, black wires (W8 headlight harness) and connections.

What is the function of the fuel shutoff solenoid circuit?

To energize the fuel shutoff solenoid when the ignition relay is energized.

What are the operating conditions for the fuel shutoff solenoid circuit?

  • Key switch in START or RUN position.
  • Operator on seat (Seat switch CLOSED).
    • PTO switch in OFF position.
    • LX172—transmission in NEUTRAL (neutral start switch CLOSED).
    • LX176/LX186—park brake ENGAGED (brake switch CLOSED).

What are the test conditions for fuel shutoff solenoid circuit diagnosis?

  • Key switch in RUN position—engine not running.
  • LX172—transmission in NEUTRAL (neutral start switch CLOSED).
  • LX176/LX186—park brake ENGAGED (brake switch CLOSED).
  • Operator on seat (Seat switch CLOSED).
  • PTO switch in OFF position.
  • Check connection(s) for corrosion and looseness when checking/testing.
  • Meter negative (-) lead on battery negative (-) terminal.

What should be the reading when testing the PTO switch?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Test yellow/black wires No. 410 and 415. Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Test PTO switch. (See PTO SWITCH TEST).

What should be the reading when testing the neutral start/brake switch?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check purple/black wire No. 705, W5 neutral start harness and connections. Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Test neutral start/brake switch. (See NEUTRAL START/BRAKE SWITCH TEST).

What should be the reading when testing the seat switch?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check yellow/black wires No. 410 and 441 and connections. Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Test seat switch. (See SEAT SWITCH TEST).

What are the test conditions for fuel shutoff solenoid circuit diagnosis when the key switch is in the STOP position?

  • Key switch in STOP position.

What should be the reading when testing the Interlock module—terminal X4—8?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check pink wire No. 800 and connections.

What should be the reading when testing the Interlock module—terminal X4—3?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Replace interlock module.

What should be the reading when testing the fuel shutoff solenoid?

Normal: Battery voltage. If Not Normal: Check black/yellow wire No. 416, W4 engine wiring harness—yellow/ black wire and connections. Check ground circuit. If OK, replace fuel shutoff solenoid.

What should be the reading when testing the Interlock module—terminal X4—4?

Normal: Maximum 0.1 ohms resistance. If Not Normal: Check battery negative (-) cable, shielded ground circuit and black wires 101 and 102.

What are the test conditions for POWER CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS?

  • Park brake ENGAGED. (Brake switch CLOSED.)
  • Key Switch in OFF position.
  • Meter negative (-) lead on battery negative (-) terminal.
  • Meter positive (+) lead on battery (+) terminal.
  • Check connection(s) for corrosion and looseness when checking/testing.

What is the normal voltage at the battery positive (+) terminal and what should be done if it is not normal?

Normal: 11.8—13.2 volts. If Not Normal: Test battery.

What should be checked if the starter solenoid to motor bolt—battery terminal voltage is not normal?

Check battery cables and clamps. Clean and tighten connections.

What should be checked if the interlock module—connector X2 voltage is not normal?

Check orange wire No. 215, fusible link (F1), red wire No. 210 and red wire (X2 to key switch). Check connections.

What should be checked if the voltage regulator/rectifier— battery terminal voltage is not normal?

Check red wire No. 205 and connections.

What should be done if the key switch—”A” terminal voltage is not normal?

Replace interlock module.

What should be done if the interlock module—terminal X3—1 voltage is not normal?

Check fuse (F3), if OK, replace interlock module.

What should be done if the interlock module—terminal X3—5 voltage is not normal?

Check fuse (F2).

What should be checked if the interlock module—terminal X4—5 voltage is not normal?

Check yellow/black wire No. 415, PTO switch and purple/white wire No. 706.

What should be checked if the interlock module—terminal X4—1 voltage is not normal?

Check purple wire No. 705, brake switch and purple wire No. 710.

What should be checked if the voltage regulator/rectifier voltage is not normal?

Check red wire No. 205 (X2 to N1).

What should be checked if the voltage regulator/rectifier voltage is not normal?

Check yellow/black wire No. 411 (X3—1 to N1).

What should be checked if the seat switch voltage is not normal?

Check yellow/black wire No,. 414 (X3—1 to S2).

What should be checked if the headlight switch voltage is not normal?

Check yellow/black wire No. 412 (X3—5 to S5).

What should be checked if the discharge light is not ON?

Check brown wire No. 600 (N1 to H1).

What should be checked if the PTO switch voltage is not normal?

Check yellow/black wires No. 415, purple wire No. 705 and purple/ white wire No. 706.

What should be checked if the engine oil pressure light is not ON?

Check yellow wire No. 500 (X3—1 to H2).

What should be checked if the engine coolant temperature light—yellow wire No. 502 is not normal?

Check yellow wire No. 502.

What are the operating conditions for the cranking system?

  • Key switch in START position.
  • Park brake ENGAGED. (Brake switch CLOSED.)
  • PTO switch in OFF position.

What are the test conditions for CRANKING CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS?

  • Park brake ENGAGED. (Brake switch CLOSED.)
  • PTO switch in OFF position.
  • Key switch in RUN position—engine not running.
  • Check connection(s) for corrosion and looseness when checking/testing.
  • Meter negative (-) lead on battery negative (-) terminal.

What are the test conditions for CRANKING CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS?

  • Spark plug leads disconnected and grounded.
  • Key switch in START position.

What is the normal voltage at the battery positive (+) terminal and what should be done if it is not normal?

Normal: 11.8—13.2 volts. If Not Normal: Test battery.

What should be checked if the starter solenoid—battery terminal voltage is not normal?

Check battery positive (+) cable and clamp. Clean and tighten connections.

What should be checked if the interlock module—connector X2 voltage is not normal?

Check orange wire No. 215, fusible link (F1), red wire No. 210 and red wire (X2 to key switch). Check connections.

What should be done if the interlock module—terminal X3—1 voltage is not normal?

Check fuse (F3), if OK, replace Interlock Module.

What should be checked if the PTO switch voltage is not normal?

Test yellow/black wires No. 410 and 415.

What should be done if the PTO switch voltage is not normal after checking the yellow/black wires?

Test PTO switch.

What should be done if the brake switch voltage is not normal?

Test purple wire No. 705.

What should be done if the brake switch voltage is not normal after testing the purple wire?

Test brake switch.

What should be checked if the interlock module—terminal X4—1 voltage is not normal?

Check purple wire No. 710.

What should be checked if the interlock module—terminal X4—4 voltage is greater than 0.2 volts?

Check Interlock Module ground circuit.

What should be done if the interlock module—terminal X4—4 voltage is 0 volts?

Replace Interlock Module.

What should be done if the interlock module—terminal X3—6 voltage is not normal?

Replace Interlock Module.

What should be checked if the starter solenoid—terminal S voltage is not normal?

Test purple/white wire No. 721.

What should be checked if the starter motor voltage is greater than 0.2 volts?

Check starter motor and engine ground circuit.

What should be done if the starter motor voltage is 0 volts?

Test starter solenoid and motor.

What are the operating conditions for the ignition circuit?

  • Key switch in START or RUN position.
  • Operator on seat. (Seat switch CLOSED.) or
  • PTO switch in OFF position.
  • Park brake ENGAGED (brake switch CLOSED).

What are the test conditions for IGNITION CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS?

  • Park brake ENGAGED. (Brake switch CLOSED.)
  • PTO switch in OFF position.
  • Spark plug leads disconnected and grounded.
  • Key switch in START position.
  • Check connection(s) for corrosion and looseness when checking/testing.
  • Meter negative (-) lead on battery negative (-) terminal.

What are the test conditions for IGNITION CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS?

  • Key switch in RUN position (engine not running).

What should be done if there is no spark present when testing the spark plug/spark tester?

Test ignition coils and ignition module.

What should be done if there is a spark present when testing the spark plug/spark tester?

Check spark plug gap and condition of spark plug. If plugs are good, continue testing ground circuit.

What is the normal voltage at the battery positive (+) terminal and what should be done if it is not normal?

Normal: 11.8—13.2 volts. If Not Normal: Test battery.

What should be checked if the interlock module—connector X2 voltage is not normal?

Check orange wire No. 215, fusible link (F1), red wire No. 210 and red wire (X2 to key switch). Check connections.

What should be done if the interlock module—terminal X3—1 voltage is not normal?

Check fuse (F3), if OK, replace Interlock Module.

What should be checked if the PTO switch voltage is not normal?

Test yellow/black wires No. 410 and 415.

What should be done if the PTO switch voltage is not normal after checking yellow/black wires?

Test PTO switch.

What should be done if the brake switch voltage is not normal?

Test purple wire No. 705.

What should be done if the brake switch voltage is not normal after testing the purple wire?

Test brake switch.

What should be checked if the interlock module—terminal X4—1 voltage is not normal?

Check purple wire No. 710.

What are the test conditions for IGNITION CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS?

  • Seat switch depressed or jumper wire installed in connector.

What are the test conditions for IGNITION CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS?

  • Key switch in OFF position.

What are the test conditions for IGNITION CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS?

  • Plug leads disconnected and grounded.
  • Key switch in START position.
  • Meter set for AC voltage for step 17.
  • Voltage test light connected to battery negative (-) terminal (checking for current pulses) for step 18.

What are the test conditions for IGNITION CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS?

  • Key switch in RUN position.

What should be checked if the seat switch voltage is not normal?

Test yellow/black wires No. 410 and 414.

What should be done if the seat switch voltage is not normal after testing the yellow/black wires?

Test seat switch.

What should be checked if the interlock module—terminal X4—8 voltage is not normal?

Test pink wire No. 800.

What should the engine ground resistance be?

Maximum 0.1 ohms resistance.

What should be checked if the engine ground resistance is not normal?

Check battery negative (-) cable and shielded engine ground connection.

What should the interlock module—terminal X4—4 resistance be?

Maximum 0.1 ohms resistance.

What should be checked if the interlock module—terminal X4—4 resistance is not normal?

Check black wires No. 101 and 102.

What should the ignition module resistance be?

Maximum 0.2 ohms resistance.

What should be checked if the ignition module resistance is not normal?

Check black/white wire and ground connection.

What should the ignition coil resistance be?

Primary—3.4—4.6 ohms. Core—infinite (open circuit). Secondary—10.4—15.6 K ohms.

What should be done if the ignition coil resistance is not normal?

Replace ignition coil (T1 or T2).

What should the left and right pulser coils white/blue and pink leads, then green/white and yellow leads be?

0.1—1 VAC.

What should be done if the left and right pulser coils white/blue and pink leads, then green/white and yellow leads are not normal?

Check pulser coil connections and test pluser coil resistance.

What should the ignition coil negative (-) terminal show?

Rapidly flashing light, not steady glow.

What should be done if the ignition coil negative (-) terminal light is flashing?

Check ignition module and go to step 19.

What should be done if the ignition coil negative (-) terminal light is a steady glow?

Check ignition coil ground circuit.

What should be checked if the ignition module voltage is not normal?

Check white and black/yellow wires, if OK, replace ignition module.

What should be done if there is no spark produced from the ignition module?

Replace ignition module (A1).

What are the operating conditions for the charging circuit?

  • Key switch in RUN position.
  • Engine running.

What are the test conditions for CHARGING CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS?

  • Key switch in OFF position.
  • Check connection(s) for corrosion and looseness when checking/testing.
  • Meter negative (-) lead on battery negative (-) terminal.

What are the test conditions for CHARGING CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS?

  • Key switch in RUN position—engine not running.

What are the test conditions for CHARGING CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS?

  • Key switch in RUN position—engine running.

What is the normal voltage at the battery positive (+) terminal and what should be done if it is not normal?

Normal: 11.8—13.2 volts. If Not Normal: Test battery.

What should be checked if the interlock module—connector X2 voltage is not normal?

Check orange wire No. 215, fusible link (F1), red wire No. 210 and red wire (X2 to key switch). Check connections.

What should be checked if the voltage regulator/rectifier voltage is not normal?

Check red wire No. 205, and connections.

What should the voltage regulator/rectifier resistance be?

Maximum 0.1 ohms resistance.

What should be checked if the voltage regulator/rectifier resistance is not normal?

Check battery negative cable, shielded ground, black wires No. 101 and 107.

What should the discharge light resistance be?

Maximum 0.1 ohms resistance.

What should be checked if the discharge light resistance is not normal?

Check black wires No. 103.

What should be done if the interlock module—terminal X3—1 voltage is not normal?

Check fuse (F3), if OK, replace interlock module.

What should be checked if the voltage regulator/rectifier voltage is not normal?

Check yellow/black wire No. 410 and 411 and connections.

What should be checked if the discharge light voltage is not normal?

Check brown wire No. 600 and connections.

What should be done if the stator connector voltage output is not to specifications?

Check brown/white wire No. 595, brown/yellow wire No. 590 and black wires. If OK, replace voltage regulator/rectifier.

What should be done if the regulated amperage is not to specification?

Voltage regulator/rectifier—red wire No. 205. Perform Regulated Amperage Test.

What are the operating conditions for the PTO CIRCUIT OPERATION—PTO OFF?

  • Key switch in RUN position.
  • PTO switch in OFF position.
  • Operator on seat. (Seat switch CLOSED.) or
  • PTO switch OFF.
  • Park brake ENGAGED. (Brake switch CLOSED.).

What are the operating conditions for PTO CIRCUIT OPERATION—PTO ON?

  • Key switch in RUN position.
  • PTO switch in ON position.
  • Operator on seat. (Seat switch CLOSED.).

What are the test conditions for PTO CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS?

  • Key switch in RUN position—engine not running.
  • PTO switch in OFF position.
  • Park brake engaged. (Brake switch CLOSED.)
  • Operator on seat. (Seat switch CLOSED.)
  • Check connection(s) for corrosion and looseness when checking/testing.
  • Meter negative (-) lead on battery negative (-) terminal.

What are the test conditions for PTO CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS?

  • Key switch on OFF position.

What is the normal voltage at the battery positive (+) terminal and what should be done if it is not normal?

Normal: 11.8—13.2 volts. If Not Normal: Test battery.

What should be checked if the interlock module—connector X2 voltage is not normal?

Check orange wire No. 215, fusible link (F1), red wire No. 210 and red wire (X2 to key switch). Check connections.

What should be done if the interlock module—terminal X3—1 voltage is not normal?

Check fuse (F3), if OK, replace interlock module.

What should be checked if the PTO switch voltage is not normal?

Test yellow/black wires No. 410 and 415.

What should be done if the PTO switch voltage is not normal after checking the yellow/black wires?

Test PTO switch.

What should be checked if the interlock module—terminal X4—5 voltage is not normal?

Check purple/white wire No. 706.

What should be done if the brake switch voltage is not normal?

Test purple wire No. 705.

What should be done if the brake switch voltage is not normal after testing the purple wire?

Test brake switch.

What should be checked if the interlock module—terminal X4—1 voltage is not normal?

Check purple wire No. 710 and connections.

What should be checked if the seat switch voltage is not normal?

Test yellow/black wires No. 414.

What should be done if the seat switch voltage is not normal after testing yellow/black wires?

Test seat switch.

What should be checked if the interlock module—terminal X4—8 voltage is not normal?

Check pink wire No. 800 and connections.

What should the interlock module—terminal X4—4 resistance be?

Maximum 0.1 ohms resistance.

What should be checked if the interlock module—terminal X4—4 resistance is not normal?

Check battery negative (-) cable, shielded ground, and black wires No. 101 and 102.

What are the test conditions for PTO CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS?

  • Key switch in STOP position.
  • PTO switch in ON position.

What should be done if the interlock module—terminal X3—2 voltage is not normal?

Replace interlock module (A2).

What should be checked if the PTO switch voltage is not normal?

Check blue wire No. 750 and connections.

What should be done if the PTO switch voltage is not normal after checking the blue wire?

Test PTO switch.

What should be checked if the PTO clutch voltage is not normal?

Check blue wire No. 755 and connections.

What should be done if the PTO clutch voltage is greater than 0.2 volts?

Check PTO clutch ground circuit.

What should be done if the PTO clutch voltage is 0 volts?

Test PTO clutch.

What should be done if the PTO clutch air gap is not within specification?

Adjust air gap.

What are the operating conditions for the LOW OIL PRESSURE LIGHT CIRCUIT OPERATION?

  • Key switch in RUN position.
  • Oil pressure switch CLOSED (engine OFF or low oil pressure).

What are the test conditions for LOW OIL PRESSURE LIGHT CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS?

  • Key switch in RUN position—engine not running.
  • Engine oil pressure switch lead disconnected.
  • Check connection(s) for corrosion and looseness when checking/testing.
  • Meter negative (-) lead on battery negative (-) terminal.

What are the test conditions for LOW OIL PRESSURE LIGHT CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS?

  • Key switch in OFF position.

What are the test conditions for LOW OIL PRESSURE LIGHT CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS?

  • Key switch in RUN position—engine running.

What is the normal voltage at the battery positive (+) terminal and what should be done if it is not normal?

Normal: 11.8—13.2 volts. If Not Normal: Test battery.

What should be checked if the interlock module—connector X2 voltage is not normal?

Check orange wire No. 215, fusible link (F1), red wire No. 210 and red wire (X2 to key switch). Check connections.

What should be done if the interlock module—terminal X3—1 voltage is not normal?

Check fuse (F3), if OK, replace interlock module.

What should be checked if the low oil pressure light voltage is not normal?

Check yellow/black wire No. 410 and yellow wire No. 500.

What should be done if the low oil pressure light voltage is greater than 0.2 volts?

Check tan wire No. 620, blue/red wire and connections.

What should be done if the low oil pressure light voltage is 0 volts?

Check low oil pressure light bulb.

What should the engine oil pressure switch resistance be?

Maximum 0.1 ohms resistance.

What should be checked if the engine oil pressure switch resistance is not normal?

Check ground circuit, if OK, replace engine oil pressure switch.

What should the engine oil pressure switch continuity be?

No continuity to ground (maximum resistance).

What should be done if the engine oil pressure switch continuity is not normal?

Perform ENGINE OIL PRESSURE TEST. If OK, replace oil pressure switch.

What are the operating conditions for the COOLANT TEMPERATURE LIGHT CIRCUIT OPERATION?

  • Plug leads disconnected and grounded.
  • Key switch in START position. or
  • Key switch in RUN position.
  • Engine coolant switch CLOSED (high coolant temperature).

What are the test conditions for COOLANT TEMPERATURE LIGHT CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS?

  • Key switch in RUN position—engine not running.
  • Check connection(s) for corrosion and looseness when checking/testing.
  • Meter negative (-) lead on battery negative (-) terminal.

What are the test conditions for COOLANT TEMPERATURE LIGHT CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS?

  • Key switch in OFF position.
  • Engine at room temperature.

What are the test conditions for COOLANT TEMPERATURE LIGHT CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS?

  • Plug leads disconnected and grounded.
  • Key switch in START position.

What are the test conditions for COOLANT TEMPERATURE LIGHT CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS?

  • Battery positive (+) cable disconnected.
  • Key switch in START position.

What is the normal voltage at the battery positive (+) terminal and what should be done if it is not normal?

Normal: 11.8—13.2 volts. If Not Normal: Test battery.

What should be checked if the interlock module—connector X2 voltage is not normal?

Check orange wire No. 215, fusible link (F1), red wire No. 210 and red wire (X2 to key switch). Check connections.

What should be done if the interlock module—terminal X3—1 voltage is not normal?

Check fuse (F3), if OK, replace interlock module.

What should be checked if the oil pressure light voltage is not normal?

Check yellow/black wire No. 410 and yellow wire No. 500.

What should be done if the engine coolant temperature light is not OFF and the battery voltage is not normal?

Check yellow wire No. 502.

What should be done if the engine coolant temperature light is not normal?

Test bulb.

What should be checked if the engine coolant temperature switch voltage is not normal?

Check orange/white wire No. 301 and yellow wire (W2 engine wiring harness) and connections.

What should be checked if the interlock module—terminal X4—7 voltage is not normal?

Check orange/white wire No. 300 and connections.

What should the engine coolant temperature switch continuity be?

No continuity to ground (maximum resistance).

What should be done if the engine coolant temperature switch continuity is not normal?

Replace engine coolant temperature switch.

What should be done if the engine coolant temperature light is not normal?

Check ground circuit, if OK, replace light bulb.

What should the engine coolant temperature light resistance be?

Maximum 0.1 ohms resistance.

What should be checked if the engine coolant temperature light resistance is not normal?

Check orange/white wire No. 300, battery negative (-) cable, shielded ground, black wires No. 101 and 102 and connections. If OK, replace interlock module.

What are the operating conditions for the HEADLIGHT CIRCUIT OPERATION?

  • Key switch in RUN position.
  • Headlight switch in ON position.

What are the test conditions for HEADLIGHT CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS?

  • Key switch in RUN position—engine not running.
  • Headlight switch in ON position.
  • Check connection(s) for corrosion and looseness when checking/testing.
  • Meter negative (-) lead on battery negative (-) terminal.

What are the test conditions for HEADLIGHT CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS?

  • Key switch in OFF position.

What is the normal voltage at the battery positive (+) terminal and what should be done if it is not normal?

Normal: 11.8—13.2 volts. If Not Normal: Test battery.

What should be checked if the interlock module—connector X2 voltage is not normal?

Check orange wire No. 215, fusible link (F1), red wire No. 210 and red wire (X2 to key switch). Check connections.

What should be done if the interlock module—terminal X3—5 voltage is not normal?

Check fuse (F2), if OK, replace interlock module.

What should be checked if the headlight switch voltage is not normal?

Check yellow/black wire No. 412.

What should be done if the headlight switch voltage is not normal after checking the yellow/black wire?

Test headlight switch.

What should be checked if the headlight connector voltage is not normal?

Check yellow/white wire No. 450, black wires (from connector to headlights) and connections.

What should be done if the headlights are not ON?

Test bulbs.

What should the headlight ground resistance be?

Maximum 0.1 ohms resistance.

What should be checked if the headlight ground resistance is not normal?

Check battery negative (-) cable, shielded ground, black wires 101 and 111, black wires (W8 headlight harness) and connections.

What are the operating conditions for the FUEL SHUTOFF SOLENOID CIRCUIT OPERATION—LX188?

  • Key switch in START or RUN position.
  • Operator on seat. (Seat switch CLOSED). or
  • PTO switch in OFF position.
  • Park brake ENGAGED (brake switch CLOSED).

What are the test conditions for FUEL SHUTOFF SOLENOID CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS—LX188?

  • PTO switch in OFF position.
  • Key switch in RUN position.
  • Check connection(s) for corrosion and looseness when checking/testing.
  • Meter negative (-) lead on battery negative (-) terminal.

What are the test conditions for FUEL SHUTOFF SOLENOID CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS—LX188?

  • Operator on seat (seat switch CLOSED) or jumper wire installed in connector.
  • PTO switch in ON position.

What is the normal voltage at the battery positive (+) terminal and what should be done if it is not normal?

Normal: 11.8—13.2 volts. If Not Normal: Test battery.

What should be checked if the interlock module—connector X2 voltage is not normal?

Check orange wire No. 215, fusible link (F1), red wire No. 210 and red wire (X2 to key switch). Check connections.

What should be done if the interlock module—terminal X3—1 voltage is not normal?

Check fuse (F3), if OK, replace interlock module.

What should be checked if the PTO switch voltage is not normal?

Test yellow/black wires No. 410 and 415.

What should be done if the PTO switch voltage is not normal after checking yellow/black wires?

Test PTO switch.

What should be done if the brake switch voltage is not normal?

Test purple wire No. 705.

What should be done if the brake switch voltage is not normal after testing the purple wire?

Test brake switch.

What should be checked if the interlock module—terminal X4—1 voltage is not normal?

Check purple wire No. 710.

What should be checked if the seat switch voltage is not normal?

Check yellow/black wires No. 410 and 414 and connections.

What should be done if the seat switch voltage is not normal after checking the yellow/black wires?

Test seat switch.

What are the test conditions for FUEL SHUTOFF SOLENOID CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS—LX188, continued?

  • Operator on seat (seat switch CLOSED) or jumper wire installed in connector.
  • PTO switch in ON position.

What are the test conditions for FUEL SHUTOFF SOLENOID CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS—LX188, continued?

  • Key switch in STOP position.

What should be checked if the interlock module—terminal X4—8 voltage is not normal?

Check pink wire No. 800.

What should be done if the interlock module—terminal X4—3 voltage is not normal?

Replace interlock module.

What should be checked if the fuel shutoff solenoid voltage is not normal?

Check pink wire No. 805, yellow/ white wire and black/yellow wires (W2 engine harness) and connections.

What should the interlock module—terminal X4—4 resistance be?

Maximum 0.1 ohms resistance.

What should be checked if the interlock module—terminal X4—4 resistance is not normal?

Check battery negative (-) cable, shielded ground, black wires 101 and 102 and connections.

What should the fuel shutoff solenoid resistance be?

Maximum 0.1 ohms resistance.

What should be checked if the fuel shutoff solenoid resistance is not normal?

Check black wire (fuel solenoid ground).

What are the operating conditions for Unswitched Circuits?

Voltage must be present at the following components with the key switch in the OFF position:

  • Battery positive (+) terminal.
  • Battery terminal of starter solenoid.
  • Battery terminal of key switch.
  • Battery terminal of voltage regulator/rectifier.

What are the operating conditions for Switched Circuits?

Voltage must be present at the following components with the key switch in the RUN position:

  • All Unswitched Locations.

  • A2 Interlock Module:

    • F2 and F3 Fuse Terminals.
    • X3 Connector—Terminals 1 and 5.

  • S2 Seat Switch—Yellow/Black Wire.

  • PTO Switch—Yellow/Black Wire.

  • S5 Headlight Switch—Yellow/Black Wire.

  • H2 Oil Pressure Light—Yellow/Black Wire.

  • B1 Engine Oil Pressure Switch—Tan Wire.

  • S3 Neutral Start Switch—Purple Wire Terminal.

What are the test conditions for POWER CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS?

  • Park brake ENGAGED.
  • Key switch in OFF position.
  • Meter negative (-) lead on battery negative (-) terminal.
  • Meter positive (+) lead on battery (+) terminal.
  • Check connection(s) for corrosion and looseness when checking/testing.

What are the test conditions for POWER CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS?

  • Key switch in RUN position—engine not running.
  • Transmission in NEUTRAL (Neutral start switch CLOSED).

What is the normal voltage at the battery positive (+) terminal and what should be done if it is not normal?

Normal: 11.8—13.2 volts. If Not Normal: Test battery.

What should be checked if the starter solenoid to motor bolt—battery terminal voltage is not normal?

Check battery cables and clamps. Clean and tighten connections.

What is the function of the cranking system?

The cranking system is used to energize the starting motor.

Under what operating conditions does the cranking system function?

  • Key switch in START position.
  • Transmission in NEUTRAL (neutral start switch CLOSED).
  • PTO switch in OFF position.

NOTE: The operator does not have to be in the seat (seat switch closed) to crank the engine.

What should I check for when diagnosing the cranking circuit?

  • Key switch in OFF position.
  • Transmission in NEUTRAL (neutral start switch CLOSED).
  • PTO switch in OFF position.
  • Check connection(s) for corrosion and looseness when checking/testing.
  • Meter negative (-) lead on battery negative (-) terminal.

What should the normal voltage be at the battery positive (+) terminal, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: 11.8—13.2 volts. If not normal: Test battery (See BATTERY TEST).

What should the normal voltage be at the starter solenoid bolt—battery terminal, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check battery cables and clamps. Clean and tighten connections.

What should the normal voltage be at the interlock module—connector X2, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check orange wire No. 215 fusible link (F1), red wire No. 210 and red wire (X2 to key switch). Check connections.

What should the normal voltage be at the interlock module—terminal X3—1, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check fuse (F3), if OK, replace interlock module.

What should the normal voltage be at the PTO switch, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Test yellow/black wire No. 410 and connections.

How do I test the PTO switch if the voltage is not normal?

See PTO SWITCH TEST.

What should the normal voltage be at the neutral start switch, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Test purple wire No. 705 or purple/ white wire—W5 harness.

How do I test the neutral start switch if the voltage is not normal?

See NEUTRAL START/BRAKE SWITCH TEST.

What should the normal voltage be at the interlock module—terminal X3—4, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check purple wire No. 710 or purple wire—W5 harness and connections.

What should the normal voltage be at the interlock module—terminal X3—6, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Replace interlock module.

What should the normal voltage be at the starter solenoid, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check purple/white wire No. 721 and connections.

What is the function of the ignition circuit?

To create a spark that ignites the fuel/air mixture in the engine.

Under what operating conditions does the ignition circuit function?

  • Key switch in START or RUN position.
  • Operator on seat (Seat switch CLOSED).

or

  • PTO switch in OFF position.
  • Transmission in NEUTRAL (neutral start switch CLOSED).

What are the operating conditions for shutting off the engine?

  • Key switch in STOP position.
  • Operator off seat with PTO engaged.
  • Operator off seat with transmission engaged.

What should I check first if the engine will not start or shut off?

When diagnosing an ignition problem, isolate the magneto circuit from the ground circuit. If the engine will not start, check the magneto circuit first and then the ground circuit. If the engine will not shut off, check the ground circuit first.

What are the test conditions for ignition circuit diagnosis?

  • Key switch in START position.
  • PTO switch in OFF position.
  • Transmission in NEUTRAL (neutral start switch CLOSED).
  • Check connection(s) for corrosion and looseness when checking/testing.
  • Meter negative (-) lead on battery negative (-) terminal.

What should I check if there is no spark present at the spark plug/spark tester?

Test ignition coil and ignition module. Check armature air gap, and flywheel magnets.

What should I check if there is spark present at the spark plug/spark tester?

Check spark plug gap and condition of spark plug. If plug is good, continue testing ground circuit.

What should the normal voltage be at the battery positive (+) terminal during ignition circuit diagnosis, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: 11.8—13.2 volts. If not normal: Test battery.

What should the normal voltage be at the interlock module—connector X2 during ignition circuit diagnosis, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check orange wire No. 215, fusible link (F1), red wire No. 210 and red wire (X2 to key switch). Check connections.

What should the normal voltage be at the interlock module—terminal X3—1 during ignition circuit diagnosis, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check fuse (F3), if OK, replace interlock module.

What should the normal voltage be at the PTO switch during ignition circuit diagnosis, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check yellow/black wires No. 415 and 410 and connections.

How do I test the PTO switch during ignition circuit diagnosis if the voltage is not normal?

See PTO SWITCH TEST.

What should the normal voltage be at the neutral start switch during ignition circuit diagnosis, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check purple wire No. 705 or W5 harness—purple/white wire and connections. Neutral start switch—710 purple wire or W5 harness purple wire terminal. Test neutral start switch.

How do I test the neutral start switch during ignition circuit diagnosis if the voltage is not normal?

See NEUTRAL START/BRAKE SWITCH TEST.

What should the normal voltage be at the interlock module—terminal X3—4, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check purple wire No. 710, W5 harness and connections.

What should the normal voltage be at the seat switch, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check yellow/black wires No. 420, 415 and 410 and connections.

How do I test the seat switch if the voltage is not normal?

See SEAT SWITCH TEST.

What should the normal voltage be at the interlock module—terminal X4—8, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check pink wire No. 800 and connections.

What should the normal voltage be at the interlock module—terminal X4—3, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Replace interlock module.

What should the normal resistance be at the engine ground, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal resistance: Maximum 0.1 ohms resistance. If not normal: Check battery negative cable and shielded ground connection.

What should the normal resistance be at the interlock module—terminal X4—4, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal resistance: Maximum 0.1 ohms resistance. If not normal: Check black wires No. 100 and 101 and harness to engine ground connection.

What should I do if all other ignition tests pass?

Replace ignition module with a known good module.

What should I do if replacing the ignition module does not solve the problem?

Replace ignition module. Check flywheel air gap and magnet.

What is the function of the charging circuit?

To maintain battery voltage between 11.8 and 13.2 volts DC.

Under what operating conditions does the charging circuit operate?

  • Key switch in RUN position.
  • Engine running.

What are the test conditions for charging circuit diagnosis?

  • Key switch in OFF position.
  • Check connection(s) for corrosion and looseness when checking/testing.
  • Meter negative (-) lead on battery negative (-) terminal.

What should the normal voltage be at the battery positive (+) terminal during charging circuit diagnosis, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: 11.8—13.2 volts. If not normal: Test battery.

What should the normal voltage be at the interlock module—connector X2 during charging circuit diagnosis, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check orange wire No. 215, fusible link (F1), red wire No. 210 and red wire (X2 to key switch). Check connections.

What should the normal voltage be at the voltage regulator/rectifier during charging circuit diagnosis, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check red wire No. 205 and connections.

What should the normal voltage be at the interlock module—terminal X3—1, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check fuse (F3), if OK, replace interlock module.

What should I do if the voltage regulator/rectifier connector is disconnected during charging circuit diagnosis?

Perform UNREGULATED VOLTAGE OUTPUT TEST—LX173.

What should I do if the voltage output is to specifications during charging circuit diagnosis?

Check white wire from stator and connections. If OK, replace stator.

What should I do if the voltage regulator/rectifier is being tested during charging circuit diagnosis?

Perform REGULATED AMPERAGE OUTPUT TEST. Perform UNREGULATED VOLTAGE OUTPUT TEST—LX173.

What is the function of the PTO circuit when the PTO is OFF?

To provide power to energize the PTO relay and clutch.

What are the operating conditions for the PTO circuit when the PTO is OFF?

  • Key switch in RUN position.
  • PTO switch in OFF position.
  • Operator on seat (Seat switch CLOSED).

or

  • PTO switch in OFF position.
  • Transmission in NEUTRAL (neutral start switch CLOSED).

What are the test conditions for PTO circuit diagnosis?

  • Key switch in RUN position—engine not running.
  • PTO switch in OFF position.
  • Transmission in NEUTRAL (neutral start switch CLOSED).
  • Operator on seat (Seat switch CLOSED).
  • Check connection(s) for corrosion and looseness when checking/testing.
  • Meter negative (-) lead on battery negative (-) terminal.

What should the normal voltage be at the battery positive (+) terminal during PTO circuit diagnosis, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: 11.8—13.2 volts. If not normal: Test battery.

What should the normal voltage be at the interlock module—connector X2 during PTO circuit diagnosis, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check orange wire No. 215, fusible link (F1), red wire No. 210 and red wire (X2 to key switch). Check connections.

What should the normal voltage be at the interlock module—terminal X3—1 during PTO circuit diagnosis, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check fuse (F3), if OK, replace interlock module.

What should the normal voltage be at the PTO switch during PTO circuit diagnosis, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Test yellow/black wires No. 410 and 415.

How do I test the PTO switch during PTO circuit diagnosis if the voltage is not normal?

See PTO SWITCH TEST.

What should the normal voltage be at the interlock module—terminal X4—5 during PTO circuit diagnosis, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check purple/white wire No. 706.

What should the normal voltage be at the neutral start switch during PTO circuit diagnosis, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Test purple wire No. 705 and connections. Check purple/white wire—W5 harness and connections.

How do I test the neutral start switch during PTO circuit diagnosis if the voltage is not normal?

See NEUTRAL START/BRAKE SWITCH TEST.

What should the normal voltage be at the interlock module—terminal X3—4 during PTO circuit diagnosis, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check purple wire No. 710 and connections.

What should the normal voltage be at the seat switch during PTO circuit diagnosis, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Test yellow/black wires No. 410, 415 and 420.

How do I test the seat switch during PTO circuit diagnosis if the voltage is not normal?

See SEAT SWITCH TEST.

What should the normal voltage be at the interlock module—terminal X4—8 during PTO circuit diagnosis, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check pink wire No. 800 and connections.

What should the normal resistance be at the interlock module—terminal X4—4 during PTO circuit diagnosis, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal resistance: Maximum 0.1 ohms resistance. If not normal: Check black wires No. 100 and 101 and harness to engine ground connection.

What should the normal voltage be at the PTO switch, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check blue wire No. 750 and connections. If OK, replace interlock module.

How do I test the PTO switch if the voltage is not normal?

See PTO SWITCH TEST.

What should the normal voltage be at the PTO clutch, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check blue wire No. 755 and connections.

What should the voltage be at the PTO clutch, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Greater than 0—less than 0.2 volts. If normal: Greater than 0.2 volts: check PTO clutch ground circuit. 0 volts: test PTO clutch.

How do I test the PTO clutch?

See PTO CLUTCH TEST.

What should I do if the PTO clutch air gap is not within specification?

Adjust air gap. (See PTO CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT).

What is the function of the low oil pressure light circuit?

To light the low oil pressure light to alert the operator that oil pressure is too low for continued operation.

Under what operating conditions does the low oil pressure light circuit operate?

  • Key switch in RUN position.
  • Oil pressure switch CLOSED (engine OFF or low oil pressure).

What are the test conditions for low oil pressure light circuit diagnosis?

  • Key switch in RUN position—engine not running.
  • Engine oil pressure switch lead DISCONNECTED.
  • Check connection(s) for corrosion and looseness when checking/testing.
  • Meter negative (-) lead on battery negative (-) terminal.

What should the normal voltage be at the battery positive (+) terminal, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: 11.8—13.2 volts. If not normal: Test battery.

What should the normal voltage be at the interlock module—connector X2, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check orange wire No. 215, fusible link (F1), red wire No. 210 and red wire (X2 to key switch). Check connections.

What should the normal voltage be at the interlock module—terminal X3—1, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check fuse (F3), if OK, replace interlock module.

What should the normal voltage be at the low oil pressure light, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check yellow/black wires No. 410 and 415.

What should the normal voltage be at the low oil pressure switch, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check tan wire 620, low oil pressure light and connections.

What should the normal resistance be at the engine oil pressure switch, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal resistance: Maximum 0.1 ohms resistance. If not normal: Check ground circuit. If OK, replace engine oil pressure switch.

What should the normal voltage be at the engine oil pressure switch, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check tan wire No. 620 and connections.

What should the normal resistance be at the engine oil pressure switch, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal resistance: No continuity to ground (maximum resistance). If not normal: Check engine oil pressure. If OK, replace engine oil pressure switch.

How do I check the engine oil pressure?

See ENGINE OIL PRESSURE TEST.

What is the function of the headlight circuit?

To provide power to the headlights for illumination if desired by the operator.

Under what operating conditions does the headlight circuit operate?

  • Key switch in RUN position.
  • Headlight switch in ON position.

What are the test conditions for headlight circuit diagnosis?

  • Key switch in RUN position.
  • Headlight switch in ON position.
  • Check connection(s) for corrosion and looseness when checking/testing.
  • Meter negative (-) lead on battery negative (-) terminal.

What should the normal voltage be at the battery positive (+) terminal during headlight circuit diagnosis, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: 11.8—13.2 volts. If not normal: Test battery.

What should the normal voltage be at the interlock module—connector X2 during headlight circuit diagnosis, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check orange wire No. 215, fusible link (F1), red wire No. 210 and red wire (X2 to key switch). Check connections.

What should the normal voltage be at the interlock module—terminal X3—5 during headlight circuit diagnosis, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check fuse (F2), if OK, replace interlock module.

What should the normal voltage be at the headlight switch during headlight circuit diagnosis, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check yellow/black wire No. 412.

How do I test the headlight switch if the voltage is not normal?

See HEADLIGHT SWITCH TEST.

What should the normal voltage be at the headlight connector during headlight circuit diagnosis, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check yellow/white wire No. 450, black wires (from connector to headlights) and connections.

What should I check if the headlights are not ON?

Test bulbs.

What should the normal resistance be at the headlight ground, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal resistance: Maximum 0.1 ohms resistance. If not normal: Check battery negative (-) cable, shielded ground, black wires 101 and 110, black wires (W7 headlight harness) and connections.

What is the function of the fuel shutoff solenoid circuit?

To energize the fuel shutoff solenoid when the ignition relay is energized.

Under what operating conditions does the fuel shutoff solenoid circuit operate?

  • Key switch in START or RUN position.
  • Operator on seat (Seat switch CLOSED).

or

  • PTO switch in OFF position.
  • Transmission in NEUTRAL (neutral start switch CLOSED).

What are the test conditions for fuel shutoff solenoid circuit diagnosis?

  • Key switch in RUN position—engine not running.
  • Transmission in NEUTRAL (neutral start switch CLOSED).
  • Operator on seat (Seat switch CLOSED).
  • PTO switch in OFF position.
  • Check connection(s) for corrosion and looseness when checking/testing.
  • Meter negative (-) lead on battery negative (-) terminal.

What should the normal voltage be at the battery positive (+) terminal during fuel shutoff solenoid circuit diagnosis, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: 11.8—13.2 volts. If not normal: Test battery.

What should the normal voltage be at the interlock module—connector X2 during fuel shutoff solenoid circuit diagnosis, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check orange wire No. 215, fusible link (F1), red wire No. 210 and red wire (X2 to key switch). Check connections.

What should the normal voltage be at the interlock module—terminal X3—1 during fuel shutoff solenoid circuit diagnosis, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check fuse (F3), if OK, replace interlock module.

What should the normal voltage be at the PTO switch during fuel shutoff solenoid circuit diagnosis, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Test yellow/black wires No. 410 and 415.

How do I test the PTO switch during fuel shutoff solenoid circuit diagnosis if the voltage is not normal?

See PTO SWITCH TEST.

What should the normal voltage be at the neutral start switch during fuel shutoff solenoid circuit diagnosis, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check purple/black wire No. 705, W5 neutral start harness and connections.

How do I test the neutral start switch during fuel shutoff solenoid circuit diagnosis if the voltage is not normal?

See NEUTRAL START/BRAKE SWITCH TEST.

What should the normal voltage be at the interlock module—terminal X3—4 during fuel shutoff solenoid circuit diagnosis, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check purple wire No. 710, W5 neutral start harness and connections.

What should the normal voltage be at the seat switch during fuel shutoff solenoid circuit diagnosis, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check yellow/black wires No. 410, 415 and 420 and connections.

How do I test the seat switch during fuel shutoff solenoid circuit diagnosis if the voltage is not normal?

See SEAT SWITCH TEST.

What should the normal voltage be at the interlock module—terminal X4—8 during fuel shutoff solenoid circuit diagnosis, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check pink wire No. 800 and connections.

What should the normal voltage be at the interlock module—terminal X4—3 during fuel shutoff solenoid circuit diagnosis, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Replace interlock module.

What should the normal voltage be at the fuel shutoff solenoid, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal voltage: Battery voltage. If not normal: Check black/yellow wire No. 416, W2 engine wiring harness—red wire and connections. Check ground circuit. If OK, replace fuel shutoff solenoid.

What should the normal resistance be at the interlock module—terminal X4—4, and what should I do if it’s not normal?

Normal resistance: Maximum 0.1 ohms resistance. If not normal: Check battery negative (-) cable, shielded ground circuit and black wires 101 and 100.

What should the normal resistance be at the fuel shutoff solenoid (green wire)?

Maximum 0.1 ohms Check green wire (side of carburetor-to-carburetor mounting nut).

How do I test for a shorted or improperly wired circuit?

  1. Turn component switch ON.
  2. Start at the controlling switch of the component that should not be operating.
  3. Follow the circuit and disconnect wires at connectors until components stop operating.
  4. Shorted or improper connections will be the last two wires disconnected.

How do I test for high resistance and open circuits?

  1. Check all terminals and ground connections of the circuit for corrosion.
  2. If terminals are not loose or corroded, the problem is in the component or wiring.

How do I check for open circuits, loose terminal wire crimps, poor connections, or corrosion in the ground circuit using the OHMMETER METHOD?

  1. Park machine on level surface.

  2. Turn key switch to STOP position.

  3. Put transmission in NEUTRAL.

  4. Engage park brake.

  5. Raise engine hood.

  6. Connect ohmmeter negative (black) lead to negative terminal of battery. Connect meter positive (red) lead to negative terminal of battery and record reading.

  7. Connect ohmmeter red lead to ground terminal of circuit or component to be tested that is closest to the battery negative terminal. Resistance reading must be the same or very close to the battery negative terminal reading. Work backward from the battery on the ground side of the problem circuit until the resistance reading increases above 0.1 ohms.

    • The problem is between the last two test points.

    • If a problem is indicated, disconnect the wiring harness connector to isolate the wire or component and check resistance again. Maximum allowable resistance in the circuit is 0.1 ohms. Check both sides of the connectors closely, as disconnecting and connecting may temporarily solve problem.

How do I check for open circuits, loose terminal wire crimps, poor connections, or corrosion in the ground circuit using the VOLTMETER METHOD?

  1. Park machine on level surface.

  2. Put transmission in NEUTRAL.

  3. Engage park brake.

  4. Turn key switch to RUN position.

  5. Raise engine hood.

  6. Connect voltmeter negative (black) lead to negative terminal of battery.

  7. Connect voltmeter positive (red) lead to ground terminal of circuit or component to be tested. Be sure that component circuit is activated (key ON, switches CLOSED) so that voltage will be present at the component. Record voltage.

    • Voltage must be greater than 0, but less than 1 volt.

    • Some components will have a very small voltage reading on the ground side and still be operating correctly.

What do the voltage readings indicate when using the voltmeter method for ground circuit testing?

  • If voltage is 0, the component is open.
  • If voltage is greater than 1 volt, the ground circuit is bad. Check for open wiring, loose terminal wire crimps, poor connections, or corrosion in the ground circuit.

How do I test the condition of the battery and determine battery voltage?

  1. Park machine on level surface.

  2. Turn key switch to OFF position.

  3. Engage park brake.

  4. Clean cable ends, battery terminals and top of battery.

  5. Remove battery to workbench.

  6. Inspect battery terminals and case for breakage or cracks.

  7. Check electrolyte level in each battery cell. Add distilled water as needed. If water is added, charge battery for 20 minutes at 10 amps.

  8. Remove surface charge by placing a small load on the battery for 15 seconds.

  9. Use a hydrometer to check for a minimum specific gravity of 1.225 with less than 50 point variation in each cell.

    • If all cells are less than 1.175, charge battery at 10 amp rate.

    • If all cells are less than 1.225 with less than 50 point variation, charge battery at 10 amp.

    • If all cells are more than 1.225 with less than 50 point variation, load test battery.

    • If more than 50 point variation, replace battery.

  10. Use a voltmeter or JT05685 Battery Tester to check for a minimum battery voltage of 12.4 volts.

    • If battery voltage is less than 11.8 VDC, charge battery.

    • If battery voltage is more than 13.2 VDC, test specific gravity.

  11. Install battery.

How do I charge the battery?

  1. Park machine on level surface.

  2. Turn key switch OFF.

  3. Engage park brake.

  4. Clean cable ends, battery terminals and top of battery.

  5. Remove battery to workbench.

  6. Connect variable rate charger to battery.

  7. Start charger at SLOW rate. Increase charge rate ONE setting at a time. Check charger ammeter after 1 minute at each setting. Maintain 10-amp charge rate. Use boost setting as necessary.

  8. Check if battery is accepting 10-amp charge rate after 10 minutes at boost setting.

    • If battery WILL NOT accept 10-amp charge after 10 minutes at boost setting, replace battery.

    • If battery is accepting 10-amp charge after 10 minutes at boost setting, and battery did NOT need water, go to steps 11 and 12.

    • If battery is accepting 10-amp charge after 10 minutes at boost setting, but battery DID need water or all cells were BELOW 1.175, go to steps 9 and 10.

  9. Set charger at 15—25 amps.

  10. Check specific gravity after 30 minutes (60 minutes for maintenance-free battery).

    • If MORE THAN 50 point variation between cells, replace battery.

    • If LESS THAN 50 point variation between cells, go to steps 11 and 12.

  11. Continue to charge battery until specific gravity is 1.230—1.265 points.

  12. Load test battery.

  13. Install battery.

How to test the pulser coil?

  1. Raise engine hood.
  2. Set ohmmeter to 1x ohms scale.
  3. Separate pulser connector.
  4. Connect one meter lead to blue/white wire. Connect other meter lead to pink wire.
  5. Measure resistance. Resistance should measure 88—132 ohms.
  6. Connect one meter lead to green/white wire. Connect other meter lead to yellow wire.
  7. Measure resistance. Resistance should measure 88—132 ohms.

NOTE: Resistance values may vary between ohmmeters. If either pulser coil is out of specification, replace pulser coil/harness assembly.

How to test the spark plug cap on LX178/ LX188?

  1. Park machine on level surface.
  2. Turn key switch to OFF position.
  3. Put transmission in NEUTRAL.
  4. Engage park brake.
  5. Raise engine hood.
  6. Unscrew spark plug cap from high tension lead.
  7. Connect one meter lead to spark plug side of spark plug cap.
  8. Connect other meter lead to high tension side of spark plug cap.
  9. Measure resistance. Resistance should be within 10% of value marked on cap.

If resistance is not within specifications, replace cap.

How to test the neutral start/brake switch?

NOTE: LX172/LX173 tractors use a gear transaxle and neutral start switch. LX176/LX178/LX186 and LX188 tractors use a hydrostatic transaxle and brake switch. Operation of switches is identical.

  1. Park machine on level surface.
  2. Turn key switch to OFF position.
  3. Put transmission in NEUTRAL.
  4. Engage park brake.
  5. Remove mower deck.
  6. Remove fuel tank.
  7. Disconnect neutral start/brake switch connector.

LX172/LX173:

  1. Check continuity across terminals. There should be continuity.
  2. Place transmission in gear.
  3. Check continuity across terminals. There should be no continuity.

If continuity is not correct, check external linkage and repeat test. If after checking linkage, there is still no continuity when the transmission is in the NEUTRAL position, go to steps 14—16.

LX176/LX178/LX186/LX188:

  1. Check continuity across terminals. There should be continuity.
  2. Release parking brake.
  3. Check continuity across terminals. There should be no continuity.

If continuity is not correct, check external brake linkage and repeat test. If after checking linkage, there is still no continuity when the transmission is in the NEUTRAL position, go to steps 14—16.

  1. Remove switch from transmission.
  2. Check continuity across terminals. There should be no continuity.
  3. Depress actuator. Check continuity, there should be continuity across terminals with actuator depressed.

If continuity is correct, check internal transmission linkage. If continuity is not correct, replace switch.

How to test the PTO switch?

  1. Park machine on level surface.
  2. Turn key switch to OFF position.
  3. Put transmission in NEUTRAL.
  4. Engage park brake.
  5. Disconnect PTO switch connector.
  6. Move PTO switch to OFF position.
  7. Connect ohmmeter leads to terminals (A and B). There should be continuity.
  8. Connect ohmmeter leads to terminals (C and E). There should be continuity.
  9. Move PTO switch to ON position.
  10. Connect ohmmeter leads to terminals (D and E). There should be continuity.

If continuity is not correct, replace PTO switch.

How to test the PTO clutch?

  1. Park machine on level surface.
  2. Turn key switch to OFF position.
  3. Put transmission in NEUTRAL.
  4. Engage park brake.
  5. Remove mower deck.
  6. Disconnect PTO clutch connector.
  7. Set ohmmeter for 1x ohms scale.
  8. Measure resistance across terminals. Resistance should measure 2.4—2.7 ohms.
  9. Connect PTO clutch connector.
  10. Put JT05712 Current Gun over blue PTO clutch wire.
  11. Start and run engine at slow idle.

Slow Idle Speed: LX172/LX176/LX186 1450 ± 75 rpm LX178/LX188 1550 ± 75 rpm

  1. Turn the PTO switch to the ON position.
  2. Measure PTO clutch current draw. The current draw should be approximately 4.84 amps.

If resistance does not meet specifications, replace the PTO clutch. Normal current draw is approximately 4.84 amps. Low current draw will cause a weak PTO clutch. If the current draw is less than 4 amps, replace clutch.

How to test the seat switch?

  1. Park machine on level surface.
  2. Turn key switch to OFF position.
  3. Put transmission in NEUTRAL.
  4. Engage park brake.
  5. Disconnect seat switch connector.
  6. Connect leads of ohmmeter or continuity tester to terminals of switch.
  7. Set ohmmeter for 1x ohms scale.
  8. Check continuity across switch terminals. There should be no continuity.
  9. Depress plunger and check continuity across switch terminals. There should be continuity.

If the seat switch does not have continuity with the operator on seat, check seat switch bracket and spring for damage. If the seat switch does not have continuity with plunger depressed, or continuity is not correct, replace the switch.

How to test the headlight switch?

  1. Park machine on level surface.
  2. Turn key switch to OFF position.
  3. Put transmission in NEUTRAL.
  4. Engage park brake.
  5. Disconnect headlight switch connector.
  6. Connect ohmmeter leads to terminals of switch.
  7. Set ohmmeter for 1x ohms scale.
  8. Move headlight switch to the ON position and then the OFF position. Check continuity between terminals.

If NO continuity with switch in ON position, replace switch. If continuity exists with switch in the OFF position, replace switch.

How to test the oil pressure switch?

  1. Park machine on level surface.
  2. Turn key switch to OFF position.
  3. Put transmission in NEUTRAL.
  4. Engage park brake.
  5. Raise engine hood.

IMPORTANT: Do not allow connector of wire to contact the engine or frame as there will be voltage at it during the test.

  1. Disconnect wire from oil pressure switch.
  2. Connect red ohmmeter lead to terminal of switch and black ohmmeter lead to engine block.
  3. Set ohmmeter for 1x scale.
  4. Measure resistance between terminal and engine block. There should be continuity between terminal and ground.
  5. Start and run engine.
  6. Measure resistance between terminal and engine block. There should be no continuity between terminal and ground.

If switch does NOT have continuity to ground when the engine is not running, replace the switch. If the switch does have continuity to ground with the engine running, check engine oil pressure. If the oil pressure is to specifications, replace the switch.

NOTE: Be sure to apply Pipe Sealant with TEFLON to threads of switch anytime it is installed.

How to test the coolant temperature switch on LX178/LX188?

  1. Connect ohmmeter leads to switch terminal and body.
  2. Suspend switch in a container of engine coolant solution.
  3. Place digital thermometer lead in coolant.
  4. Heat and stir the coolant. Observe temperature of coolant when continuity occurs. Coolant temperature should be 111°C (232°F).

If continuity does not occur within specification, replace switch.

How to test the fuel shutoff solenoid?

  1. Remove drain screw and spring to drain gasoline from float bowl.
  2. Disconnect fuel shut-off solenoid connector.
  3. Remove fuel shut-off solenoid, washer and float bowl.
  4. Connect a jumper wire from the battery positive (+) terminal to solenoid terminal.

NOTE: It may be necessary to push plunger inward slightly for plunger to retract.

  1. Connect a jumper wire from the battery negative (-) terminal to solenoid threads. Plunger must retract when solenoid is energized.
  2. Remove jumper wire from the battery negative (-) terminal. Plunger must extend.

If plunger does not move, replace solenoid.

c CAUTION

Keep gasoline away from sparks, flame, or hot engine parts or personal injury can result.

How to adjust the PTO clutch?

  1. Park machine on level surface.
  2. Turn key switch OFF.
  3. Move PTO switch to OFF position.
  4. Put transmission in NEUTRAL.
  5. Engage park brake.
  6. Remove mower deck.
  7. Insert 0.51 mm (0.020 in.) feeler gauge through slot in brake plate to check PTO clutch air gap. Gauge should be between clutch armature and rotor. Check air gap at all three slots.

IMPORTANT: DO NOT overtighten lock nuts.

  1. If the air gap is not correct, adjust lock nut until the 0.51 mm (0.020 in.) feeler gauge begins to bind between the armature and rotor. Use a sweeping motion with feeler gauge while making this adjustment.
  2. Repeat procedure on remaining nuts as necessary.
  3. Engage and disengage the PTO clutch several times. Recheck adjustment.
  4. Perform PTO Clutch Break-in procedure.

How to perform the break-in procedure?

  1. Start and run engine at FAST idle.
  2. With no load on clutch:
    • Put PTO switch in ON position (engage PTO clutch) and run for 10 seconds.
    • Put PTO switch in OFF position (disengage PTO clutch) and wait 10 seconds.
  3. Repeat the procedure 12—15 cycles to properly burnish (break-in) the PTO clutch.
  4. Recheck adjustment.

IMPORTANT: The adjustment/brake-in procedure should be performed any time the PTO clutch is repaired or replaced. This procedure should be performed by the DEALER ONLY and should not be attempted by untrained personnel.

How to remove/install the battery?

  1. Raise engine hood.
  2. Disconnect battery cables, negative (-) cable first.
  3. Disconnect vent tube.
  4. Remove retaining strap.
  5. Remove battery.

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

  • Clean battery if dirty.
  • Insect battery terminals and case for breakage or cracks. Replace if needed.
  • Test battery condition.
  • Connect negative (-) cable last.

c CAUTION

Sulfuric acid in battery electrolyte is poisonous. It is strong enough to burn skin, eat holes in clothing, and cause blindness if splashed into the eyes.

Avoid the hazard by:

  1. Filling batteries in a well-ventilated area.
  2. Wearing eye protection and rubber gloves.
  3. Avoiding breathing fumes when electrolyte is added.
  4. Avoid spilling or dripping electrolyte.
  5. Use proper jump start procedure.

If you spill acid on yourself:

  1. Flush your skin with water.
  2. Apply baking soda or lime to help neutralize the acid.
  3. Flush your eyes with water for 15—30 minutes. Get medical attention immediately.

If acid is swallowed:

  1. Do not induce vomiting.
  2. Drink large amounts of water or milk, but do not exceed 1.9 L (2 qts.).
  3. Get medical attention immediately.

How to clean the battery?

  1. Remove battery from machine.
  2. Clean battery, battery terminals, cable ends, bracket and battery box with solution of one part baking soda and four parts water.
  3. Rinse all parts with clean water. Let dry thoroughly.
  4. Apply petroleum jelly to battery terminals to prevent corrosion.

NOTE: Keep cleaning solution out of battery cells.

How to replace connector body blade terminals?

Use a small screwdriver to depress locking tang terminal. Slide connector body off. Be sure to bend locking tang back to its original position before installing connector body.

How to remove/install the electric PTO clutch?

  1. Remove mower deck.
  2. Disconnect wiring connector.
  3. Remove cap screw, washer and PTO clutch.

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

  • Apply MPG-2 Multi-Purpose Grease to crankshaft before installing PTO clutch.
  • Install clutch on crankshaft with pin through slot in coil housing.
  • Install washer with concave side toward PTO clutch.
  • Adjust PTO clutch.

IMPORTANT: The adjustment/break-in procedure should be performed any time the PTO clutch is repaired or replaced. This procedure should be performed by the DEALER ONLY and should not be attempted by untrained personnel.

What should you check or do if the machine will not move in forward or reverse?

  • Brake linkage damaged. Check linkage and adjustment. Check brake disk to shoe adjustment.
  • Drive belt broken, worn, etc. Replace traction drive belt.
  • Wrong grease in transaxle.
  • Shift linkage out of adjustment or damaged. Adjust linkage.
  • Engine/transaxle sheaves worn or damaged. Replace damaged sheave and/or keys.
  • Clutch pedal springs/linkage damaged. Eliminate binding. Replace damaged or faulty components.
  • Differential gears damaged.
  • Internal transaxle damage.
  • Belt tension out of adjustment. Adjust belt tension.
  • Bellcrank assembly worn or damaged.
  • Belt guides worn or damaged.
  • Input shaft bevel pinion and reduction shaft bevel gear. Replace damaged components.
  • Shifter fork and collar. Replace worn or damaged components.
  • Shifter shaft, keys, gears, and reverse sprocket. Replace worn or damaged components.
  • Reduction shaft, gears and reverse sprocket. Replace worn or damaged components.
  • Shifter shaft, drive gear, and reverse sprocket and chain. Replace worn or damaged components.
  • Differential transfer drive gear and carrier gear. Replace worn or damaged components.
  • Differential bevel pinion gears and axle bevel drive gears and splines. Replace worn or damaged components.
  • Axle shafts, bushings, ball bearings, keys and keyways, and snap rings. Replace worn or damaged components.

What should you check or do if the machine moves in one direction only or doesn’t move in one or more gears?

  • Shift linkage out of adjustment or damaged. Adjust linkage. Replace worn or faulty components.
  • Engine/transaxle sheaves worn or damaged.
  • Clutch pedal springs/linkage damaged.
  • Differential gears damaged.
  • Internal transaxle damage.
  • Belt tension out of adjustment.
  • Bellcrank assembly worn or damaged.
  • Shifter fork and collar. Replace worn or damaged components.
  • Shifter shaft and keys. Replace worn or damaged components.
  • Input shaft bevel pinion gear, reduction shaft bevel drive gear, reduction gears and reverse sprocket and splines. Replace worn or damaged components.
  • Shifter shaft, gears and reverse sprocket. Replace worn or damaged components.
  • Reverse chain. Replace chain.

What should you check or do if there is a loss of power under load, belt slips, or erratic drive?

  • Drive belt broken, worn, etc. Replace traction drive belt.
  • Shift linkage out of adjustment or damaged.
  • Engine/transaxle sheaves worn or damaged. Replace faulty sheave(s).
  • Clutch pedal springs/linkage damaged. Eliminate binding. Replace damaged or faulty components.
  • Internal transaxle damage.
  • Belt tension out of adjustment. Adjust belt tension.
  • Bellcrank assembly worn or damaged. Eliminate binding. Repair or replace damaged components.
  • Belt guides worn or damaged.
  • Traction drive belt. Replace traction drive belt.
  • Bellcrank assembly. Repair or replace damaged components.
  • Shift lever and linkage. Replace worn or faulty components.
  • Input bevel pinion gear and reduction bevel gear. Replace worn or damaged components.
  • Shifter shaft, keys, gears, and reverse sprocket and chain. Replace worn or damaged components.
  • Reduction shaft, gears and reverse sprocket. Replace worn or damaged components.
  • Differential transfer drive gear and carrier gear. Replace worn or damaged components.
  • Differential bevel pinion gears and axle bevel gears and splines. Replace worn or damaged components.
  • Axle shafts, bushings, ball bearings, keys and keyways, and snap rings. Replace worn or damaged components.

What should you check or do if there is jerky and aggressive engagement?

  • Drive belt broken, worn, etc.
  • Clutch pedal springs/linkage damaged.
  • Belt tension out of adjustment.
  • Bellcrank assembly worn or damaged.
  • Traction drive belt. Install correct drive belt.
  • Engine and transaxle sheaves. Clean or replace sheave(s). Properly adjust belt guides.
  • Belt tension. Properly adjust belt tension or replace worn or damaged components.
  • Bellcrank assembly. Repair or replace bellcrank assembly.
  • Clutch pedal, shaft, and arm. Eliminate binding. Replace damaged or faulty components.

What should you check or do if there are hard shifts?

  • Shift linkage out of adjustment or damaged. Repair faulty components and adjust linkage.
  • Clutch pedal springs/linkage damaged.
  • Internal transaxle damage.
  • Belt tension out of adjustment.
  • Bellcrank assembly worn or damaged.
  • Transaxle control arm. Replace control arm.
  • Transaxle. Fill transaxle with correct lubricant.
  • Transaxle. Clean or replace worn or damaged components.
  • Shifter fork and collar. Eliminate binding, replace worn or damaged components.
  • Shifter shaft keys and keyways, gears, and reverse sprocket. Replace keys.

What should you check or do if there is noisy operation?

  • Shift linkage out of adjustment or damaged.
  • Engine/transaxle sheaves worn or damaged. Replace faulty sheave(s) and/or idler(s).
  • Clutch pedal springs/linkage damaged.
  • Differential gears damaged.
  • Internal transaxle damage.
  • Belt tension out of adjustment. Perform TRACTION DRIVE BELT TENSION ADJUSTMENT.
  • Bellcrank assembly worn or damaged. Eliminate binding, replace worn or damaged components.
  • Traction drive belt. Replace traction drive belt.
  • Belt guides. Repair or replace belt guides.
  • Transaxle. Fill transaxle with correct lubricant.
  • Brake assembly. Adjust brakes. Repair or replace worn or damaged components.
  • Reduction shaft, gears, sprocket and chain. Replace worn or damaged components.
  • Shifter shaft, gears, sprocket and chain. Replace worn or damaged components.
  • Differential bevel pinion gears, bevel drive gears and splines. Replace worn or damaged components.
  • Differential transfer drive gear and carrier gear. Replace worn or damaged components.
  • Axle shafts and ball bearings. Replace worn or damaged components.

How to do the gearshift lever neutral adjustment?

  1. Park machine on level surface.
  2. Turn key switch OFF.
  3. Transaxle in NEUTRAL.
  4. Loosen shift lever linkage nuts located on each side of the frame behind the rear wheels.
  5. Slide the bracket forward or rearward to position the gear selector lever in the center on the neutral slot on shift quadrant. Tighten nut.
  6. Check that the gear selector lever will engage in all ranges and directions. If not, adjust the position of the lever slightly to achieve all gears.

The gear selector lever should be in neutral position when the transaxle is in neutral. The transaxle should be able to achieve all speed ranges and direction selections, without bottoming the lever in the quadrant.

How to do the traction drive belt tension adjustment?

  1. Park machine on level surface.
  2. Turn key switch OFF.
  3. Transaxle in NEUTRAL.
  4. Park brake locked to release belt tension.
  5. Remove mower deck.
  6. Unlock park brake to tension drive belt.
  7. Check that the belt is adjusted properly, the dimension between the cap lips on the ends of the clutch actuating spring should be 31–33 mm (1.2– 1.3 in.).

LX172 (S.N. —43869):

  1. Lock park brake to release drive belt tension.
  2. Move front (engine) tensioning v-idler outward and forward to increase belt tension and decrease clutch actuating spring caps dimension or move it rearward and inward to decrease belt tension and increase clutch actuating spring caps dimension.
  3. At the same time adjust v-idler belt guide so it is parallel with and approximately 3.2 mm (0.125 in.) away from belt and v-idler. Tighten fastening nut.
  4. Unlock park brake to tension drive belt and remeasure clutch actuating spring cap lips dimension after each adjustment.
  5. Repeat adjustment procedure until specified measurement is obtained or replace belt.

LX172 (S.N. 43870— ) and LX173:

  1. Lock park brake to release drive belt tension.
  2. Position tensioning bellcrank assembly v-idler in the center of its slot and the flat idler to the end of its slot (towards belt guide). At the same time adjust belt guides so they are parallel with and approximately 3.2 mm (0.125 in.) away from belt and idlers. Tighten fastening nuts.
  3. Move front (engine) tensioning v-idler outward and forward to increase belt tension and to decrease clutch actuating spring cap lips dimension OR move it rearward and inward to decrease belt tension and increase clutch actuating spring cap lips dimension.
  4. If front (engine) tensioning v-idler is at the front end of its adjustment slot, the v-idler of the tensioning bellcrank assembly may also be used to adjust belt tension further—move v-idler toward the belt to increase belt tension and to decrease clutch actuating spring cap lips dimension.
  5. Unlock park brake to tension drive belt and remeasure clutch actuating spring cap lips dimension after each adjustment.
  6. Repeat adjustment procedure until specified measurement is obtained or replace belt.

How to remove/install the transaxle?

  1. Remove mower deck.
  2. Remove traction drive belt.
  3. Depress clutch pedal and lock park brake.
  4. Safely lift the rear of the machine and place appropriate sized jackstands under both sides of frame.
  5. Remove rear wheels.
  6. Remove belt guide.
  7. Remove drive belt from driven sheave.
  8. Disconnect shift link from transaxle.
  9. Disconnect wiring connector.
  10. Disconnect brake link from transaxle.
  11. Support transaxle with a floor jack.
  12. Remove six nuts and transaxle.

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal. Tighten mounting six nuts to 9 N•m (80 lb-in.).

How to disassemble/inspect the transaxle?

  1. Thoroughly clean and dry the outside of the transaxle.
  2. Remove cap screws and support.
  3. Remove snap ring.
  4. Remove transaxle drive sheave and key.
  5. Remove neutral start switch.
  6. Remove brake assembly.
  7. Remove Allen-head screw.
  8. Remove spring and detent ball with a magnet.
  9. Remove 17 cap screws. Tap sides of case with a plastic hammer to separate case halves.
  10. Before removing any components, visually inspect and manually rotate bevel transfer gear of reduction shaft in all gears to find problem area(s).
  11. Remove excess grease from cover and lower case using scraper and paper towels.
  12. Remove shifter fork assembly.
  13. Lift shifter shaft and reduction shaft assemblies out of case as a unit.
  14. Remove differential assembly.

NOTE: Remove bearings only if replacement is necessary. Ball bearings (AP) are slip-fit.

  1. Inspect all bearings for wear or damage. Replace only if necessary.
    • Replace bearings (A) using a bearing, bushing and seal driver set. Install upper bearing flush with case surface. Install lower bearing 3.8 mm (0.150 in.) below inside surface of case cover.
    • Replace bearings (AA) using a bearing, bushing and seal driver set. Install bearings to a depth of 3.6 mm (0.142 in.) below top surface on each end.
  2. Keeping assembly sequence in mind, separate and arrange in-order all components for final cleaning and individual inspection. Replace chipped, cracked, worn, or damaged components.
  3. Thoroughly clean all components and case halves with approved solvent and blow dry with less than 210 kPa (2 bar) (30 psi) compressed air.
  4. Remove all remaining gasket material from case halves mating surfaces.
  5. Inspect case halves for cracks, wear, or damage. Replace as necessary.

c CAUTION

Reduce compressed air to less than 210 kPa (2 bar) (30 psi) when using for cleaning purposes. Clear area of bystanders, guard against flying chips, and wear personal protection equipment including eye protection.

How to assemble the gear transmission?

IMPORTANT: Always install new seals and O-rings. Damaged or used seals and O-rings will leak.

NOTE: Lubricate all seals and O-rings with petroleum jelly during assembly.

  1. Apply John Deere Non-Clay High-Temperature EP Grease (or equivalent) to all mating surfaces of all internal parts before assembly.
  2. If differential carrier housing inner bushings are worn or damaged, they both must be pressed out and two new bushings pressed in.
  3. Install left axle (short) in ring gear side of differential carrier housing.
  4. Install thrust washer, bevel gear and snap rings.
  5. Install right axle (long), thrust washer, bevel gear and snap rings in yoke end of differential carrier housing.
  6. Install bevel pinion gears on opposite sides of differential carrier housing. Rotate axle to move pinion gears into alignment with pinion shaft holes.
  7. Insert thrust washers behind each pinion gear. Slide pinion shaft through differential carrier housing, thrust washers and pinion gears.
  8. Install rolled pin to fasten pinion shaft to housing.
  9. Install loose-fit outer bushings and ball bearings.
  10. Position keys in keyways near end of shifter shaft and hold in place with heavy rubber band or plastic tie strap that can be cut when finished. Install shifter collar over key tabs with thicker shoulder of collar toward center of shaft. Slide collar and keys onto center of shaft.
  11. Install reverse sprocket with thicker shoulder toward shifter collar.
  12. Install spacer, output gear, thrust washer and bushing.
  13. Install thrust washers and spur gears on shaft from brake splines end with raised side of thrust washers toward shoulder of shaft. Flat side of gears MUST BE toward shoulder.
  14. Put protective tape over brake splines to protect new seal from being damaged. Install thrust washer, bushing and square cut seal.
  15. Install input bevel gear with bevel side toward center of reduction shaft. Install spur gears, smallest to largest, then thrust washer and bushing.
  16. Install reverse sprocket with thick shoulder toward input bevel gear on opposite end of shaft.
  17. Overlap sprockets and angle shaft ends together to install drive chain.
  18. Align reduction shaft and shifter shaft five gear sets.
  19. Put John Deere Non-Clay High-Temperature EP Grease (or equivalent) between needle bearings. Install O-rings in each end of output transfer pinion gear.
  20. Install washer, output pinion gear, output gear, thrust washer and ball bearing (flush with end of shaft).
  21. Install snap ring and thrust washer on input shaft. Install input shaft in cover (outside of cover).
  22. Put protective tape over splines to protect new o-ring from being damaged.
  23. For early models, install O-ring first and then thrust washer on input shaft (inside of case). Remove tape.
  24. Put protective tape over splines to protect new o-ring from being damaged.
  25. For late models, install O-ring, thrust washer, thrust bearing and thrust washer on input shaft (inside of case). Remove tape.
  26. Install input bevel pinion gear and snap ring.
  27. Coat appropriate case bearing surfaces with grease.
  28. Install differential assembly in case.
  29. Install shifter shaft/reduction shaft assembly in case.
  30. Make sure tabs on bushings are rotated into notches in case.
  31. Coat end of shaft and case bore surfaces with grease.
  32. Install shifter fork, putting pins in groove of shifter collar first, then rotate end of shaft into case bore.
  33. Apply approximately 1.0 L (2.2 pt) of John Deere Non-Clay High-Temperature EP Grease (or equivalent) to all transaxle components and wear areas in the bottom half of the transaxle case.

How do you install the shifter fork shaft seal?

Install the new shifter fork shaft seal until it contacts the case surface.

What do you tighten the Allen-head screw to when installing the detent ball, spring, and Allen-head screw?

Tighten the screw one turn below flush with the case cover.

What should you NOT do when installing the neutral start switch?

DO NOT over tighten.

What should you do before you begin to install the shift lever and linkage?

  1. Remove fuel tank.
  2. Inspect parts for wear or damage. Replace parts as necessary.

What is the order of installation for the shift lever and linkage?

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

What adjustments should be made after installing the shift lever linkage?

Adjust shift lever linkage. (See GEARSHIFT LEVER NEUTRAL ADJUSTMENT on page 6-32.)

What should you do before you begin to install the traction drive clutch assembly?

  1. Remove the mower deck.
  2. Remove the fender deck.
  3. Disconnect the clutch actuating spring and belt tension spring.
  4. Remove the drive belt.

Besides the mower and fender decks and the drive belt, what else needs to be removed before you begin to install the traction drive clutch assembly?

  • Flat idler sheave
  • V-idler sheave
  • Bellcrank
  • Bushings

What should you do after removing the listed parts for the traction drive clutch assembly?

Inspect all parts for wear or damage. Replace parts as necessary.

What adjustments should be made after installing the traction drive clutch assembly?

  • Adjust belt tension.
  • Adjust belt guides.

What should you do before you begin to install the clutch pedal and linkage?

  1. Remove the mower deck.
  2. Remove the fender deck.
  3. Remove the drive belt.
  4. Remove the brake pedal assembly.
  5. Inspect all parts for wear or damage.
  6. Replace parts as necessary.

What is the order of installation for the clutch pedal and linkage?

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

What adjustments should be made after installing the clutch pedal and linkage?

  • Install drive belt.
  • Adjust traction drive belt.
  • Adjust belt guides.

What should you do to remove the traction drive belt?

  1. Remove mower deck.
  2. Lock parking brake to release belt tension.
  3. Loosen transaxle belt guide.
  4. Remove belt from transaxle drive sheave.
  5. Remove belt from looped belt guide.
  6. Early models —remove V-idler.
  7. Late models —remove guide only.
  8. Loosen flat idler and guide to remove belt.
  9. Remove front tensioning v-idler nut to remove belt guide.
  10. Remove wire form belt guide.
  11. Disconnect PTO wiring connector.
  12. Disconnect steering drag link from steering arm.
  13. Replace traction drive belt.

What adjustments should be made after installing the traction drive belt?

Adjust belt tension.

What do you do if the machine will not move forward or reverse?

  • Oil level low.
  • Temperature too cold.
  • Wrong oil/incorrect viscosity.
  • Control linkage out of adjustment or damaged.
  • Brake linkage damaged.
  • Defective brake switch.
  • Park brake engaged.
  • Traction drive belt broken, worn, etc.
  • Air in system.
  • Internal oil filter plugged.
  • Control arm broken.
  • Internal transmission damage (pump or motor).
  • Input shaft broken.

What do you do if the transmission is noisy?

  • Temperature too cold.
  • Wrong oil/incorrect viscosity.
  • Control linkage out of adjustment or damaged.
  • Brake linkage damaged.
  • Traction drive belt broken, worn, etc.
  • Air in system.
  • Internal oil filter plugged.
  • Cooling fan broken. Oil too hot.
  • Debris/trash on transmission. Oil too hot.
  • Water in oil.
  • Control arm broken.
  • Internal transmission damage (pump or motor).
  • Input shaft broken.
  • Freewheel linkage stuck or damaged.
  • Reverse check valve stuck open.
  • Forward check valve stuck open.
  • Motor shaft damaged.
  • Motor shaft gear damaged.
  • Final drive pinion damaged.
  • Final ring gear damaged.

What do you do if the machine creeps?

  • Oil level low.
  • Temperature too cold.
  • Wrong oil/incorrect viscosity.
  • Control linkage out of adjustment or damaged.
  • Brake linkage damaged.
  • Air in system.
  • Internal oil filter plugged.
  • Shock absorber binding/damaged.
  • Neutral eccentric out of adjustment.
  • Control arm roll pin broken.
  • Control arm broken.
  • Internal transmission damage (pump or motor).
  • Freewheel linkage stuck or damaged.
  • Reverse check valve stuck open.
  • Forward check valve stuck open.
  • Motor shaft damaged.
  • Motor shaft gear damaged.
  • Final drive pinion damaged.
  • Final ring gear damaged.
  • Differential gears damaged.
  • Axle shaft damaged.

What do you do if the machine moves in one direction only?

  • Control linkage out of adjustment or damaged.
  • Brake linkage damaged.
  • Air in system.
  • Internal oil filter plugged.
  • Shock absorber binding/damaged.
  • Control arm roll pin broken.
  • Control arm broken.
  • Internal transmission damage (pump or motor).
  • Freewheel linkage stuck or damaged.
  • Reverse check valve stuck open.
  • Forward check valve stuck open.
  • Motor shaft damaged.
  • Motor shaft gear damaged.
  • Final drive pinion damaged.
  • Final ring gear damaged.
  • Differential gears damaged.
  • Axle shaft damaged.

What do you do if the machine has erratic speed?

  • Control linkage out of adjustment or damaged.
  • Brake linkage damaged.
  • Air in system.
  • Internal oil filter plugged.
  • Shock absorber binding/damaged.
  • Control arm roll pin broken.
  • Traction drive belt broken, worn, etc.
  • Oil level low.
  • Temperature too cold.
  • Wrong oil/incorrect viscosity.
  • Water in oil.
  • Freewheel linkage stuck or damaged.
  • Reverse check valve stuck open.
  • Forward check valve stuck open.
  • Motor shaft damaged.
  • Motor shaft gear damaged.
  • Final drive pinion damaged.
  • Final ring gear damaged.
  • Differential gears damaged.
  • Axle shaft damaged.

What do you do if the machine does not achieve full ground speed?

  • Control linkage out of adjustment or damaged.
  • Brake linkage damaged.
  • Air in system.
  • Internal oil filter plugged.
  • Shock absorber binding/damaged.
  • Control arm roll pin broken.
  • Traction drive belt broken, worn, etc.
  • Debris/trash on transmission. Oil too hot.
  • Freewheel linkage stuck or damaged.
  • Reverse check valve stuck open.
  • Forward check valve stuck open.
  • Motor shaft damaged.
  • Motor shaft gear damaged.
  • Final drive pinion damaged.
  • Final ring gear damaged.
  • Differential gears damaged.
  • Axle shaft damaged.
  • Oil level low.
  • Temperature too cold.
  • Wrong oil/incorrect viscosity.
  • Cooling fan broken. Oil too hot.

What do you do if the machine is too aggressive in forward or reverse?

  • Control linkage out of adjustment or damaged.
  • Brake linkage damaged.
  • Shock absorber binding/damaged.
  • Control arm roll pin broken.
  • Freewheel linkage stuck or damaged.
  • Reverse check valve stuck open.
  • Forward check valve stuck open.
  • Motor shaft damaged.
  • Motor shaft gear damaged.
  • Final drive pinion damaged.
  • Final ring gear damaged.
  • Differential gears damaged.
  • Axle shaft damaged.

What do you do if the park brake does not hold the machine on a hill?

  • Brake linkage damaged.
  • Shock absorber binding/damaged.
  • Freewheel linkage stuck or damaged.
  • Reverse check valve stuck open.
  • Forward check valve stuck open.
  • Motor shaft damaged.
  • Motor shaft gear damaged.
  • Final drive pinion damaged.
  • Final ring gear damaged.
  • Differential gears damaged.
  • Axle shaft damaged.

What do you do if the brake switch will not engage?

Defective brake switch.

What do you do if the freewheel valve will not work?

  • Freewheel linkage stuck or damaged.
  • Reverse check valve stuck open.
  • Forward check valve stuck open.
  • Motor shaft damaged.
  • Motor shaft gear damaged.
  • Final drive pinion damaged.
  • Final ring gear damaged.
  • Differential gears damaged.
  • Axle shaft damaged.

What do you do if the freewheel valve will not stay open with the engine off?

Freewheel linkage stuck or damaged.

What should you check if the machine will not move forward or reverse?

  1. Hydrostatic transaxle reservoir: Hydraulic oil at full mark. If not, fill reservoir to correct level with specified oil.
  2. Hydrostatic oil filter: Clean, free of debris, not plugged. If not, replace filter.
  3. Traction drive belt: Properly tensioned and not broken, worn, frayed, glazed or stretched. If not, adjust tension or replace traction drive belt.
  4. Park brake: Brake not depressed and locked. If not, release park brake.
  5. Brake linkage: Brake linkage properly adjusted and brake rod and lever not damaged or binding. If not, adjust brake linkage or eliminate binding, replace damaged components.
  6. Forward/reverse pedal linkage: Linkage properly adjusted and moves freely, not damaged. If not, adjust linkage or eliminate binding, replace faulty or damaged components.
  7. Control arm: Not damaged and roll pin not broken or missing. If not, replace control arm or roll pin.
  8. Shock absorber: Not binding or damaged. If not, replace shock absorber.
  9. Engine/transaxle drive sheaves: No damage to drive keys or keyways, sheave intact with no evidence of wear at bottom of sheave. If not, replace sheaves or keys.
  10. Idler arm assembly: Pivots freely, no wear in bearing. If not, lubricate and/or replace assembly.
  11. Belt idler assembly tension spring: Maintains tension on drive belt, not stretched or damaged. If not, replace tensioning spring.
  12. Freewheel linkage: Components move freely and are not damaged. If not, eliminate binding and/or replace damaged components.
  13. Forward/reverse check valves and seat assemblies: Balls and seats not deformed, damaged, or stuck in bores, sealing properly. If not, clean, free up valves or replace forward/reverse check valve components, plungers, and springs.
  14. Input (pump) shaft: Splines not worn or damaged, positively engaged in pump. If not, correct engagement or replace shaft.
  15. Pump/motor rotating groups: No scoring on valve body interface, no scoring on pistons. If not, replace rotating groups and valve body.
  16. Motor output shaft with gear: Shaft with gear not worn or damaged. If not, replace shaft.
  17. Final pinion and ring gear: Pinion and gear not damaged or worn. If not, replace damaged or worn components.
  18. Differential gears: Gears not damaged. If not, replace gears.
  19. Axle shafts: Shafts not damaged. If not, replace axle shafts.

What should you check if the operation is noisy?

  1. Hydrostatic transaxle reservoir: Hydraulic oil at full mark, oil at room temperature, not contaminated, no water in oil, clean and not foamy (no air in system). If not, fill reservoir to correct level with specified oil, drain transaxle and fill to correct level with specified oil, or bleed air from system.
  2. Hydrostatic oil filter: Clean, free of debris, not plugged. If not, replace filter.
  3. Park brake: Brake not depressed and locked. If not, release park brake.
  4. Brake linkage: Brake linkage properly adjusted and brake rod and lever not damaged or binding. If not, adjust brake linkage or eliminate binding and/or replace damaged components.
  5. Pump/motor rotating groups: No scoring on valve body interface, no scoring on pistons. If not, replace rotating groups and valve body.
  6. Freewheel linkage and check valves: Components move freely and are not damaged. If not, clean, free up valves or replace plungers and springs; replace linkage.
  7. Final pinion and ring gear: Pinion and gear not damaged or worn. If not, replace damaged or worn components.

What should you check if the machine creeps?

  1. Hydrostatic transaxle reservoir: Hydraulic oil at full mark, oil at room temperature. If not, fill reservoir to correct level with specified oil.
  2. Forward/reverse pedal linkage: Linkage properly adjusted and moves freely, not damaged. If not, adjust linkage or eliminate binding, replace faulty or damaged components.
  3. Control arm: Control arm not damaged and roll pin not broken or missing. If not, replace control arm or roll pin.
  4. Shock absorber: Not binding or damaged. If not, eliminate binding and/or replace shock absorber.
  5. Neutral eccentric: Properly adjusted for no wheel movement at fast idle, one wheel off the ground. If not, adjust neutral eccentric.
  6. Variable position swash plate: Ball joint, shift blocks, cradle bearings not worn or damaged, thrust washers and bearings not binding. If not, replace damaged or worn components.
  7. Swash plate pivot ball and control lever: Pivot ball and socket not bent or worn. If not, replace swash plate control arm.
  8. Neutral return spring: Returns swash plate to neutral when forward/reverse pedals released and is not fatigued or damaged. If not, replace spring.

What should you check if the machine moves in one direction only?

  1. Forward/reverse pedal linkage: Linkage properly adjusted and moves freely, not damaged. If not, adjust linkage or eliminate binding, replace faulty or damaged components.
  2. Shock absorber: Not binding or damaged. If not, eliminate binding and/or replace shock absorber.
  3. Control arm: Control arm not damaged. If not, replace control arm.
  4. Reverse check valve: Moves freely, not stuck in open position. If not, clean, unstick and/or replace check valve components.

What should you check if the machine has erratic speed?

  1. Hydrostatic transaxle reservoir: Hydraulic oil at full mark, oil at room temperature, not contaminated, no water in oil, and clean and not foamy (no air in system). If not, fill reservoir to correct level with specified oil, drain transaxle and fill to correct level with specified oil, or bleed air from system.
  2. Hydrostatic oil filter: Clean, free of debris, not plugged. If not, replace filter.
  3. Traction drive belt: Properly tensioned and not broken, worn, frayed, glazed, or stretched. If not, adjust tension or replace traction drive belt.
  4. Brake pedal and linkage: Brake linkage properly adjusted and brake rod and lever not damaged or binding. If not, adjust brake linkage or eliminate binding and/or replace damaged components.
  5. Freewheel linkage: Components move freely and are not damaged. If not, clean, free up valves or replace forward/reverse check valve components, plungers, and springs.
  6. Forward/reverse check valves and seat assemblies: Ball and seats not deformed, damaged, or stuck in bores, sealing properly. If not, replace directional check valve components.
  7. Pump/motor rotating groups: No scoring on valve body interface, no scoring on pistons. If not, replace rotating groups and valve body.
  8. Motor output shaft with gear: Shaft with gear not worn or damaged. If not, replace shaft.
  9. Final drive pinion and differential ring gear assembly: Pinion and differential ring gear assembly not worn or damaged. If not, replace worn or damaged components.

What should you check if the machine does not achieve full ground speed?

  1. Hydrostatic transaxle: Transaxle free of debris. If not, remove debris from transaxle.
  2. Cooling fan: Not damaged. If not, replace cooling fan.
  3. Hydrostatic transaxle reservoir: Hydraulic oil at full mark, oil at room temperature. If not, fill reservoir to correct level with specified oil or bleed air from system.
  4. Hydrostatic oil filter: Clean, free of debris, not plugged. If not, replace filter.
  5. Traction drive belt: Properly tensioned and not worn, frayed, glazed, or stretched. If not, adjust tension or replace traction drive belt.
  6. Park brake: Brake not depressed and locked. If not, release park brake.
  7. Brake linkage: Brake linkage properly adjusted and brake rod and lever not damaged or binding. If not, adjust brake linkage or eliminate binding and/or replace damaged components.
  8. Forward/reverse pedal linkage: Linkage properly adjusted and moves freely, not damaged. If not, adjust linkage or eliminate binding, replace faulty or damaged components.
  9. Swash plate control arm and shock absorber: Not binding or damaged and roll pin not broken or missing. If not, replace faulty or damaged components or replace roll pin.
  10. Shock absorber: Not binding or damaged. If not, replace shock absorber.
  11. Pump/motor rotating groups: No scoring on valve body interface, no scoring on pistons. If not, replace scored parts of rotating groups and valve body.
  12. Freewheel linkage: Components move freely and are not damaged. If not, eliminate binding and/or replace damaged components.
  13. Forward/reverse check valves and seat assemblies: Move freely, not stuck in open position. If not, clean, unstick and/or replace check valve components, plungers, and springs.

What should you check if the machine is too aggressive in forward or reverse?

Shock absorber: Not binding or damaged. If not, replace shock absorber.

What should you check if the park brake does not hold the machine on a hill?

  1. Brake pedal, internal/external linkage, and brake band assembly: Brake pedal linkage, internal/external components, brake band not damaged, worn, or binding. If not, eliminate binding and/or replace damaged components. If the problem is internal, remove transaxle, disassemble/inspect/replace damaged components/and install.
  2. Motor output shaft with gear: Shaft with gear not worn or damaged. If not, replace shaft.
  3. Reduction shaft and gear: Shaft and gear not worn or damaged. If not, replace worn or damaged components.
  4. Final pinion and ring gear: Pinion and gear not damaged or worn. If not, replace damaged or worn components.
  5. Differential gears: Gears not damaged. If not, replace gears.
  6. Axle shafts: Shafts not damaged. If not, replace axle shafts.

What should you check if the brake switch will not engage?

  1. Hydrostatic transaxle: Transaxle free of debris. If not, remove debris from transaxle.
  2. Forward/reverse pedal linkage: Linkage properly adjusted and moves freely, not damaged. If not, adjust linkage or eliminate binding, replace faulty or damaged components.
  3. Brake linkage: Brake linkage properly adjusted and brake rod and lever not damaged or binding. If not, adjust brake linkage or eliminate binding and/or replace damaged components.
  4. Brake switch: Continuity through switch with park brake engaged. If not, replace brake switch.
  5. Shock absorber: Not binding or damaged. If not, replace shock absorber.

What should you check if the freewheel valve will not work?

Freewheel linkage and valves: Components move freely and are not damaged. If not, clean, unstick valves and/or replace damaged components.

What should you check if the freewheel valve will not stay open with the engine off?

Freewheel lever/linkage: Transaxle free of debris and lever/linkage moves freely. If not, remove debris and clean area or repair or replace binding linkage.

What is the hydrostatic transaxle bleeding procedure?

This procedure is performed to eliminate air from the hydrostatic transaxle after repair or leakage of the transaxle.

  1. Check hydrostatic transaxle oil reservoir oil level. If necessary, fill to correct level with specified oil.
  2. Raise rear wheels off the ground and support rear axles with jack stands.
  3. Start and run the engine at SLOW idle.
  4. While alternately depressing the forward and reverse pedals, engage and disengage the freewheel valve lever. Continue this procedure until the rear wheels start to rotate. This step may take 5 to 10 minutes to perform.
  5. Lower the machine to the ground.
  6. With control pedals in neutral, push the machine forward and then rearward to turn the motor rotating group.
  7. Start and run the engine at FAST idle.
  8. Quickly depress and release the forward and reverse pedals until the machine moves without hesitation.

When should you perform a neutral creep adjustment?

If the machine creeps forward or backward with the forward/reverse pedals in the neutral position, parking brake released, and the engine running, the neutral eccentric must be adjusted.

How do you perform a neutral creep adjustment?

  1. Park the machine on a level surface.
  2. Turn the key switch to the STOP position.
  3. Move forward/reverse pedals to the NEUTRAL position.
  4. Engage the park brake.
  5. Lift the rear of the machine until the wheels are just barely off the ground and support the machine with jack stands.
  6. Remove the seat and fender deck.
  7. Pull the fuel tank forward to gain access to the eccentric.
  8. Start and run the engine at FAST idle.
  9. Loosen the lock nut and turn the eccentric shaft clockwise until the axle shaft rotates in reverse. Mark the top of the eccentric shaft for position.
  10. Turn the eccentric shaft slowly counterclockwise until the axle shaft stops. Mark the transaxle case as the reverse stop position.
  11. Turn the eccentric shaft slowly counterclockwise until the axle shaft rotates forward.
  12. Turn the eccentric shaft clockwise until the axle shaft stops. Mark the transaxle case as the forward stop position.
  13. Turn the eccentric shaft slowly clockwise until the mark is approximately 1/3 the distance between the forward and reverse stop positions initial neutral position.
  14. Hold the eccentric shaft with a wrench and tighten the locknut.

NOTE: If the axle shafts do not rotate in reverse although the eccentric shaft has been turned one full turn, adjust neutral as follows:

  1. Turn eccentric shaft counterclockwise until axle shafts rotate forward.
  2. Turn eccentric shaft clockwise until the axle shaft stops. Mark the top of the eccentric shaft and transaxle case.
  3. Turn the eccentric shaft clockwise approximately 8° from forward stop position.
  4. Hold the eccentric shaft with wrench and tighten locknut.

What is the reason for a pedal height adjustment?

To ensure full travel speeds in forward and reverse directions, and also to ensure that the transaxle swash plate and control arm will not act as a mechanical stop for the pedal linkage.

How do I adjust the traction drive belt tension?

To provide proper traction belt tension to keep the belt from slipping and to position the guides so that belt jumping is minimized, follow these steps:

  1. Park the machine on a level surface.
  2. Turn key switch to STOP position.
  3. Move forward/reverse pedals to NEUTRAL position and engage park brake.
  4. Remove mower deck.
  5. Release park brake to apply tension to traction drive belt.
  6. Check for proper adjustment between alignment mark of the tensioning bellcrank arm and belt tension release rod—mark should be centered on rod.
  7. Engage park brake to release belt tension.
  8. Position tensioning bellcrank v-idler fully forward in its slot and at the same time adjust its belt guide so it is parallel with and approximately 3.2 mm (0.125 in.) away from belt and v-idler.
  9. At short increments, adjust flat idler position, engaging and disengaging park brake with each incremental adjustment, until alignment mark on the bellcrank idler arm aligns with the center of the belt tension release rod.
  10. When adjusting flat idler, adjust belt guide at the same time so it is parallel with and approximately 3.2 mm (0.125 in.) away from belt and v-idler.
  11. Recycle park brake several times and recheck alignment of mark and rod with park brake disengaged. Readjust flat idler and belt guide as necessary until alignment is assured.

What does it mean if the alignment mark is off the rod toward the front of the tractor?

Belt tension is too tight.

What does it mean if the mark is off the rod toward the rear of the tractor?

Belt tension is too loose.

How do I remove/install the hydrostatic transaxle?

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

  1. Set park brake.
  2. Remove mower deck.
  3. Remove fuel tank.
  4. Remove rear wheels.
  5. Remove snap ring, washer, wave washer and fan.
  6. Remove traction drive belt.
  7. Remove sheave.
  8. Release park brake.
  9. Disconnect shift rod.
  10. If transaxle is to repaired, drain transaxle.
  11. Disconnect shift and brake rods.
  12. Disconnect brake switch wiring connector.
  13. Support transaxle with a floor jack.
  14. Disconnect mount(s) from frame. Early models use one slotted mount (RH side). Later models use two mounts attached to frame.
  15. Remove nuts.
  16. Lower transaxle.
  17. Disconnect free wheel rod.
  18. Remove transaxle.

What is the transaxle oil capacity?

Transaxle oil capacity is 3.4 L (7.2 pt).

What should I do before disassembling/inspecting the hydrostatic transaxle?

  1. Thoroughly clean the outside of the transaxle.
  2. Remove bottle and hose.
  3. Remove brake switch.
  4. Remove brake assembly.
  5. Remove belt guide and mount(s).
  6. Remove snap ring.
  7. Remove shock absorber.
  8. Remove swash plate control arm, brake arm and freewheel arm.
  9. Remove nut and washer.
  10. Turn transaxle over.
  11. Remove transaxle case cap screws and separate case halves (K60) or remove cover (K61).

What should I do if the axle shaft seals need replacing on the K61 Transaxle?

K61 Transaxle—Axle shaft seals are press-fit in transaxle housing. Do not remove unless replacement is necessary.

What should I measure to inspect the pinion gears?

  1. Measure I.D. of pinion gears. Replace if measurement is greater than 15.03 mm (0.592 in.) .
  2. Measure O.D. of pinion shaft. Replace if measurement is less than 14.99 mm (0.590 in.) .
  3. Subtract pinion shaft O.D. from pinion gear I.D. to find clearance. Replace parts if clearance is greater than 0.50 mm (0.020 in.).

What should I measure to inspect the bushings?

  1. Measure I.D. of bushings. Replace if measurement is greater than 22.15 mm (0.872 in.) .
  2. Measure O.D. of axle shafts. Replace if measurement is less than 21.98 mm (0.865 in.) .
  3. Subtract axle shaft O.D. from bushing I.D. to find clearance. Replace parts if clearance is greater than 0.50 mm (0.020 in.).

What should I measure to inspect the bushings?

  1. Measure I.D. of bushings. Replace if measurement is greater than 15.13 mm (0.596 in.) .
  2. Measure O.D. of reduction shaft. Replace if measurement is less than 14.97 mm (0.589 in.) .
  3. Subtract reduction shaft O.D. from bushing I.D. to find clearance. Replace parts if clearance is greater than 0.50 mm (0.020 in.).

What should I keep in mind when disassembling the hydrostatic transaxle?

  • Parts (AM—AP) and (AS—AV) are not interchangeable. Mark parts to ensure assembly in original bore.
  • Be careful not to scratch or nick mating surfaces of parts (T, AY and BI).
  • Bearings © are press-fit. Remove bearings only if replacement is necessary.
  • Absolute cleanliness is essential when working on transaxle. Contamination can result in serious damage or inadequate operation.
  • DO NOT use shop towels or rags to dry clean parts. Lint will clog passages in hydrostatic system and cause damage.

How should I clean metal parts?

Clean all metal parts with solvent and blow dry with compressed air.

What should I keep in mind when assembling the hydrostatic transaxle?

  • Always use new seals and O-rings. Damaged or used parts will leak.
  • Lubricate all seals and O-rings with petroleum jelly during assembly.
  • Apply clean SAE 10W30 engine oil to all internal parts during assembly.

What is the procedure for assembling the hydrostatic transaxle?

  1. Install O-ring and rod on brake shaft.
  2. Install brake shaft in top case half.
  3. Install spring, O-ring and rod on freewheel shaft.
  4. Install freewheel shaft in top case half.
  5. Install brake arm with pin facing case. Secure with roll pin.
  6. Install roll pin in hole of freewheel shaft closest to case.
  7. Install O-ring and return spring on brake lever shaft.
  8. Install brake lever in case half.
  9. Connect brake shaft rod and freewheel rods to brake lever. Secure brake shaft rod with washer and retaining clip.
  10. Install roll pin and shift arm.
  11. Install roller and E-clip.
  12. Install O-rings and shafts.
  13. Insert neutral adjustment eccentric shaft between spring ends. Install swash plate control and neutral adjustment eccentric shafts in case as an assembly.
  14. Install shift arm. Secure with roll pin.
  15. Install swivel and bushing.
  16. Press bearing in until seated.
  17. Install outer snap ring.
  18. Install washer.
  19. Install snap ring on input shaft.
  20. Press input shaft through bearing until seated against snap ring.
  21. Install washer and snap ring.
  22. Install bearings. Check that bearings are seated on pegs.
  23. Install plates and roller bearing.
  24. Apply a small amount of petroleum jelly to shift blocks to hold blocks in place. Install blocks on control shaft.
  25. Install swash plate assembly in upper case.
  26. Install snap ring and spring.
  27. Measure clearance between swash plate and shift blocks. If measurement is greater than 0.30 mm (0.010 in.), replace both shift blocks and swash plate.
  28. Install spring, disk and pistons in their original bore in cylinder block.
  29. Install pump assembly on output (motor) shaft.
  30. Install valve cap, valve body, ball, seat, spring guide, back-up ring, O-ring and spring in valve body.
  31. Install O-rings on fill port.
  32. Install fill port in valve body.
  33. Apply Pipe Sealant with TEFLON (or equivalent) to threads of pipe plug. Install pipe plug.
  34. Press bearing onto motor shaft.
  35. Install washer and snap ring.
  36. Install seal with open side facing bearing.
  37. Install thin plate in retaining block with flat side toward retainer.
  38. Install ball bearing, scalloped side facing toward retainer.
  39. Install thick plate with flat side facing away from retainer.
  40. Install motor shaft assembly in swash plate assembly.
  41. Install snap ring.
  42. Install spring.
  43. Install motor assembly on shaft.
  44. Install center case and motor assembly in top case half. Check that tab on bottom of fixed swash plates is in slot of the top case half.
  45. Install magnet and cap screws. Tighten cap screws evenly to draw the assembly into place.
  46. Install springs and plungers.
  47. Install arm with slot in arm facing toward case half.
  48. Install gaskets and new filter.
  49. Install parts on reduction gear shaft.
  50. Install reduction shaft assembly. Be sure that bushing flats face case halves.
  51. Install seal, ball bearing, bushing, locking collar, bevel gear, thrust plate and snap ring on each axle shaft.
  52. Install pinion shaft, pinion gears and washers in final drive gear.
  53. Apply John Deere Flexible Sealant (or equivalent) to outer circumference of axle seals.
  54. Install differential assembly in case half.
  55. Check that axles turn smoothly and that bushing flats face case halves.
  56. Install axle shaft seals in top case half using a seal driver. Drive to shoulder in housing.
  57. Apply tape to ends of axle shaft and install axles.
  58. Install bushings in top case half.
  59. Assemble differential gear assembly.
  60. Install differential gear assembly into case and push axle shafts into side differential bevel gears.
  61. Install ring on each side of differential gear assembly.
  62. Install collar between ring and bushing on each side of differential gear assembly.
  63. Assemble reduction shaft assembly.
  64. Install reduction shaft assembly in top case half. Make sure that bushing flats face case halves.
  65. Clean mating surfaces of transaxle case halves using Clean and Cure Primer. Apply a light coat of Flexible Sealant or equivalent to top and bottom case halves.
  66. Assemble transaxle case halves. Install cap screws and tighten to 24 N•m (212 lb-in.) in same case or 29 N•m (257 lb-in.) in new case.
  67. Install all parts.
  68. Install brake assembly.
  69. Fill transaxle to proper level with specified oil.
  70. Install transaxle.
  71. Bleed air from transaxle.
  72. Adjust transmission for neutral creep.
  73. Adjust brake shoe actuator.

How do I remove/install the forward control pedals and linkage?

  1. Remove mower deck.
  2. Remove fuel tank.
  3. Inspect all parts for wear or damage. Replace parts as necessary.
  4. Adjust linkage and pedal height.

How do I remove/install the traction drive belt?

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

  1. Remove mower deck.
  2. Set park brake to release belt tension.
  3. Remove flat idler.
  4. Remove v-idler belt guide.
  5. Remove transaxle input sheave belt guide and remove drive belt from sheave.
  6. Remove belt from belt tension release rod.
  7. Disconnect PTO clutch wiring connector.
  8. Remove front belt guide.
  9. Disconnect steering drag link.
  10. Remove drive belt.

How do I remove/inspect/install the traction drive belt tensioner assembly?

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

  1. Remove mower deck.
  2. Remove fender deck.
  3. Remove traction drive belt.
  4. Inspect all parts for wear or damage. Replace parts as necessary.

What is the function of the steering system?

To allow the operator to change machine travel direction.

How does the steering system operate?

As the steering wheel is turned, the steering shaft and gear rotate. The steering gear meshes with the sector gear, causing the sector gear and steering arm to rotate. As the steering arm moves, the drag link is moved (forward—left turn, backward—right turn) causing the spindle to rotate. Since the spindles are connected by the tie rod both spindles are turned at the same time.

What should I check or do if the steering wanders?

  • Steering wheel loose on shaft.
  • Steering linkage components loose or worn.
  • Gear and/or sector teeth worn or damaged.
  • Drag link out of adjustment.
  • Tie rod bent or out of adjustment.

What should I check or do if there is lash (lost motion) at the steering wheel?

  • Steering wheel loose on shaft.
  • Steering linkage components loose or worn.
  • Gear and sector assembly teeth worn or damaged. Not binding.
  • Tie rod not worn.

What should I check or do if the steering wheel turns farther in one direction?

Drag link properly adjusted.

What should I check or do if the wheels won’t track straight?

Tie rod not bent or damaged.

How do I adjust the drag link?

To adjust the steering linkage so that wheels are straight ahead, use the following procedure:

  1. Park machine on level surface.
  2. Turn key switch OFF.
  3. Place transmission is in NEUTRAL position.
  4. Engage park brake.
  5. Disconnect drag link ball joint.
  6. Align sector gear mark with pinion gear mark.
  7. Put wheels in straight forward position.
  8. Loosen nut. Turn drag link ball joint until stud aligns with the hole in the steering arm. Tighten nut.
  9. Connect drag link ball joint. Tighten nut to 30 N•m (22 lb-ft) .
  10. Turn steering wheel to the full left position and check that the sector gear contacts the stop before the tie rod hits the axle.
  11. Repeat check for full right turn. Adjust drag link slightly if tie rod contacts axle.

How do I remove/install the steering wheel?

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

  1. Remove lock nut.
  2. Drive shoulder bolt out of steering wheel.
  3. Remove steering wheel.

How do I remove/inspect/install the steering shaft?

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

  1. Remove mower deck.

  2. Remove steering wheel.

  3. Remove battery.

  4. Remove cotter pins.

  5. Remove pinion gear and washer.

  6. Loosen four instrument panel mounting cap screws.

  7. Remove steering shaft through top of the instrument panel.

  8. Inspect all parts for wear or damage. Replace parts as necessary.

    • If pinion gear requires replacement, also replace steering sector.
    • If support requires replacement, remove steering sector assembly.

  9. Check that front wheels are straight and sector gear alignment mark is centered with steering shaft.

  10. When installing pinion gear, align pinion gear, steering shaft and sector gear alignment marks.

How do I remove/inspect/install the steering sector assembly?

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

  1. Remove mower deck.

  2. Remove battery.

  3. Inspect all parts for wear or damage. Replace parts as necessary.

    • If sector gear requires replacement, also replace pinion gear.
    • If support requires replacement, remove steering shaft.

  4. Tighten drag link retainer nuts to 30 N•m (22 lb-ft) .

  5. Do not bend cotter pin in place until pinion gear, steering shaft, sector gear and sector shaft alignment marks are aligned.

  6. Adjust drag link.

What is the function of the brake system?

To slow down or stop the machine.

How does the brake system operate?

The brake system is mounted on the transaxle. When the brake pedal is depressed, the brake actuating spring assembly moves forward which starts to compress the spring. The spring force pulls the brake rod forward and rotates the brake cam lever at the adjuster nut. There is a cam stamped into the lever. The cam forces pins to press against the outer brake pad, which presses the brake disk against the inner brake pad and the friction stops the unit. The brake disk is splined to the shifter shaft. When the brake pedal is released, the return spring pulls the brake linkage to the disengaged position.

How does the external brake linkage operate?

When the brake pedal is depressed, it rotates the brake pedal shaft forward. Attached to the shaft is the belt tension release rod. Movement of the shaft is transferred to the rod which engages the end of the slot in the idler arm assembly. Continued movement pulls the left side of the idler arm forward and disengages drive belt tension. Also attached to the brake pedal shaft is the brake actuating arm and spring assembly. Movement of the lever is transferred through the rod to the transmission brake actuator arm to provide braking action.

What are the functions of the internal brake linkage?

The internal linkage performs multiple functions. First it applies the transaxle brake which is used as a park or emergency brake. Through the same linkage it activates the neutral start switch which necessitates having the brake applied in order to crank and start the engine. Along with these two functions the forward/ reverse pedals are locked in place (neutral) and the freewheel valve is deactivated if it was previously engaged.

How does the internal brake linkage operate?

When the brake pedal is applied, the external linkage pulls the brake control arm forward and rotates the brake lever. The motion is transferred to the brake rod which rotates the brake shaft. The brake shaft protrudes through the top of the case and is attached to the brake arm. As the brake arm rotates, it actuates the brake spring assembly. The brake link assembly allows only a limited amount of force to be applied to the brake band for braking action. The band encompasses the brake drum that is splined to the hydrostatic motor output shaft and this action stops the machine. Without the brake applied, a tab on the brake shaft contacts the neutral start switch and interrupts the current flow in the cranking circuit. When the brake is applied, the tab no longer contacts the switch and the starting circuit can be activated. At the same time, a lobe on the brake lever acts upon the cam slot profile of the swashplate control cam and locks the hydrostatic control linkage in place (neutral). When the hydrostatic freewheel valve is activated, the brake rod is pulled to the end of the slot in the brake lever. When the brake is applied, the rod rotates the freewheel valve shaft and actuator and deactivates the freewheel valve plungers.

What should I check or do if there is a lack of drive in both directions?

  • Brake linkage damaged or binding.
  • Brake actuating spring damaged or binding.
  • Brake return spring damaged or binding.
  • Brake pads binding or worn.
  • Brake disk splines damaged or worn.
  • Brake caliper pins and lever binding or damaged.

What should I check or do if the brakes do not engage when the pedal is depressed?

  • Brake linkage damaged or binding.
  • Brake actuating spring damaged or binding.
  • Brake return spring damaged or binding.
  • Brake pads binding or worn.
  • Brake disk splines damaged or worn.
  • Brake caliper pins and lever binding or damaged.

What should I check or do if the park brake does not hold the machine on a hill?

  • Brake linkage damaged or binding.
  • Brake pads binding or worn.
  • Brake disk splines damaged or worn.
  • Brake caliper pins and lever binding or damaged.

What should I check or do if there is noisy operation?

  • Brake linkage damaged or binding.
  • Brake pads binding or worn.
  • Brake disk splines damaged or worn.
  • Brake caliper pins and lever binding or damaged.

What should I do if the machine will not move in forward or reverse?

  • Park brake engaged.
  • Brake linkage damaged.
  • Brake linkage out of adjustment.
  • Belt idler assembly return spring weak or damaged.
  • Belt tension release rod.

What should I do if the brakes do not engage when the pedal is depressed?

  • Brake linkage damaged.
  • Brake linkage out of adjustment.
  • Belt idler assembly return spring weak or damaged.
  • Brake band damaged or worn.
  • Brake drum damaged or worn.
  • Internal brake actuator lever damaged or worn.
  • Belt tension release rod.

What should I do if the park brake does not hold machine on a hill?

  • Park brake engaged.
  • Brake linkage damaged.
  • Brake linkage out of adjustment.
  • Belt idler assembly return spring weak or damaged.
  • Brake band damaged or worn.
  • Brake drum damaged or worn.
  • Internal brake actuator lever damaged or worn.

What should I do if there is noisy operation?

  • Park brake engaged.
  • Brake linkage damaged.
  • Brake linkage out of adjustment.
  • Belt idler assembly return spring weak or damaged.
  • Brake band damaged or worn.
  • Brake drum damaged or worn.
  • Internal brake actuator lever damaged or worn.

What should I do if there is erratic speed?

  • Brake linkage damaged.
  • Brake linkage out of adjustment.

What should I do if the machine does not achieve full ground speed?

  • Brake linkage damaged.
  • Brake linkage out of adjustment.
  • Belt idler assembly return spring weak or damaged.

What should I do if the machine will not move in forward or is slow in forward?

  • Park brake engaged.
  • Brake linkage damaged.
  • Brake linkage out of adjustment.
  • Belt idler assembly return spring weak or damaged.
  • Brake return spring weak or broken.
  • Belt tension release rod.

What should I do if the machine is slow in reverse?

  • Park brake engaged.
  • Brake linkage damaged.
  • Brake linkage out of adjustment.
  • Belt idler assembly return spring weak or damaged.
  • Brake return spring weak or broken.
  • Belt tension release rod.

What should I do if the brake switch does not engage when depressing the brake pedal?

  • Brake linkage damaged.
  • Brake linkage out of adjustment.
  • Brake return spring weak or broken.
  • Faulty brake switch.
  • Internal brake actuator lever damaged or worn.

What should I do if the engine can be started without depressing the brake pedal?

  • Brake linkage damaged.
  • Brake linkage out of adjustment.
  • Faulty brake switch.
  • Internal brake actuator lever damaged or worn.

How do I adjust the brakes on the LX172/ LX173?

To ensure proper brake operation:

  1. Park machine on level surface.
  2. Turn key switch OFF.
  3. Place transmission in NEUTRAL position.
  4. Block wheels to prevent machine from moving.
  5. Check linkage, pads and disk for wear, binding or dirt.
  6. Adjust nut to get 0.13 mm (0.005 in.) clearance between outer brake pad and brake disk.

How do I adjust the brakes on the LX176/ LX178/LX186/LX188?

To ensure proper brake pedal travel and synchronize brake shoe engagement with linkage movement within the transaxle:

  1. Park machine on level surface.
  2. Turn key switch OFF.
  3. Place transmission in NEUTRAL position.
  4. Block wheels to prevent machine from moving.
  5. Remove fender deck.
  6. Disconnect control rod from brake arm.
  7. Disconnect rod from brake shoe assembly.
  8. Hold brake arm all the way rearward and adjust the length of the rod so that it slips easily into the hole in the brake shoe actuator.
  9. Hold brake arm all the way rearward and adjust nuts so that the control rod pin slips easily into the hole in the brake arm.

How do I remove/inspect/install the brake linkage on the LX172/LX173?

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

  1. Remove mower deck.
  2. Remove right rear wheel.
  3. Inspect all parts for wear or damage. Replace parts as necessary.
  4. Adjust brakes.

How do I remove/inspect/install the brake pedal assembly on the LX172/LX173?

  1. Remove mower deck.

  2. Remove fender deck.

  3. Remove right rear wheel.

  4. Disconnect:

    • Belt tension spring.
    • Clutch actuating rod.
    • Brake return spring.
    • Brake linkage rod.
    • Left-hand lift linkage arm.

How to remove/install the park brake lever and linkage?

  1. Remove the battery. (See BATTERY—Removal/Installation).
  2. Remove the right pedestal panel.
  3. Remove the spring.
  4. Remove the carriage bolt, nut, and bushing.
  5. Remove the brake handle.
  6. Early models—Remove the latch and rod. Later models—Remove cotter pin, springs, and rod.
  7. Inspect all parts for wear or damage. Replace parts as necessary.

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

How to repair the brake pedal and linkage?

  1. Remove mower deck. (See MOWER DECK—Removal/Installation).
  2. Remove fuel tank. (See FUEL TANK—Removal/ Installation).
  3. Inspect all parts for wear or damage. Replace parts as necessary.

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal. * Adjust brakes. (See BRAKE ADJUSTMENT).

How to repair the brake assembly?

  1. Remove the left rear wheel. (See WHEELS—Removal/ Installation).
  2. Disassemble brakes.
  3. Inspect all parts for wear or damage. Replace parts as necessary.

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal. * Apply a light coat of John Deere LUBRIPLATE® lubricant or equivalent to splines of shaft. * Adjust brakes. (See BRAKE ADJUSTMENT).

NOTE: The remainder of the brake components are internal to the transaxle. See hydrostatic TRANSAXLE—Disassembly/Inspection for inspection and repair of these components.

What should I do if the mower deck will not run?

  • Test PTO circuit. (See PTO CIRCUIT DIAGNOSIS).
  • Tighten cap screw. Replace key. Repair and adjust as needed.
  • Install belt.
  • Replace sheave.
  1. Primary drive belt.
    • Correct belt installed.
    • Not damaged, worn, or broken.
    • Not turned over.
    • Replace belt.
  2. Jack sheave.
    • Belt on sheave.
    • Sheave not binding, damaged, or worn.
    • Sheave angle matching belt angle.
    • Nut at correct torque.
    • Install belt.
    • Replace sheave and bearing.
    • Check jack sheave and PTO sheave.
    • Tighten nut to specifications.
  3. Primary belt tension spring and rod.
  4. PTO clutch.
  5. Engine RPM.
  6. Spindle and housing.
    • Bearings not failed, full of grease.
    • Blade tight on spindle.
  7. Idler pivot arm.
    • Not binding or worn.
    • Replace idler.
    • Install belt.
    • Replace pivot arm.
  8. Fixed idler—44 and 48-inch only.
    • Not binding, damaged, or worn.
    • Belt in place.
    • Replace idler.
    • Install belt.
  9. Spindle sheave.
    • Tight on spindle and key in place.
    • Not damaged or bent.
    • Running straight.
    • Belt on sheave.
    • Sheave angle matches belt angle.
    • Tighten nut and install key as needed.
    • Repair or replace as needed.
    • Install belt.
    • Replace sheave.
    • Install belt.

How should mower blades be sharpened?

  1. Sharpen blades using grinder, file, or power sharpener.
  2. Do not alter original bevel. The blade should have a 0.40 mm (0.016 in.) cutting edge rather than a razor-type edge.
  3. Balance blades.

How should mower blades be balanced?

  1. Clean blade.
  2. Put the blade on a nail in vise or vertical wall stud.
  3. Turn the blade to the HORIZONTAL position. If the blade is not balanced, the heavy end will drop.
  4. Grind bevel of heavy end. Do not change blade bevel.

What are the steps for 48-inch mower deck removal/installation?

  1. Pull the lift lever all the way back.
  2. Turn the mower depth control knob to the blank mark.
  3. Move the lift lever all the way forward to lock in the DOWN position.
  4. Disconnect the tensioner handle from the bracket. Pull handle out to relieve belt tension.
  5. Remove the drive belt from the PTO and mower jack sheave.

How to remove/install spindles?

  1. Remove mower blade(s). (See MOWER BLADES—Removal/Installation).
  2. Remove mower drive belt. (See MOWER DRIVE BELT—Removal/Installation).
  3. Remove four nuts, washers, and the spindle assembly.
  4. Make repairs as necessary. (See Disassembly/ Inspection procedure.)

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal. * Tighten spindle mounting nuts to 26 N•m (230 lb-in.).

How to disassemble/inspect spindles?

  1. Install blades or spacer and blade, washer, and cap screw on spindle shaft. On late model decks, make sure that the concave side of the washer faces the blade. On early model decks, make sure that the hole in the washer is aligned with the hexagon portion of the spindle. If only the nut or spindle sheave need to be replaced, and the spindle is still in the deck, use a block of wood to prevent the blade from turning. If the spindle is not in the deck, put the blade in a soft jaw vise. Tighten cap screw to 122 N•m (90 lb-ft).
  2. Hold the blade with a vise or a block of wood. Remove nut, spindle sheave, and lubrication fitting.
  3. Remove cap screw, washer, blade and spacer or blades.
  4. Pull the spindle shaft out of the spindle hub.
  5. Remove seal rings, noting the location of the notched side.
  6. Bearings are seated against the hub shoulder and cannot be removed with a press. Remove seals and bearings using a punch.
  7. Remove spacer.
  8. Inspect all parts for wear or damage. Replace parts as necessary.

How to assemble spindles?

  1. Install the upper bearing tight against the spindle hub shoulder using a 1-13/16 in. disk and press.
  2. Install the upper seal with the lip toward the bearing, tight against the bearing using a 1-13/16 in. disk and press.
  3. Install the upper seal ring, with grease notch toward bearing, inside seal lip.
  4. Install spacer.
  5. Install the lower bearing in hub using a 1-13/16 in. disk and press, just enough so the lower seal can be installed.
  6. Install the lower seal with the lip toward the bearing using a 1-13/16 in. disk and a press.
  7. Install the lower seal ring, with grease notch away from bearing, inside seal lip.
  8. Install spindle shaft.
  9. Install blades or spacer and blade, washer, and cap screw on spindle shaft. On late model decks, make sure that the concave side of the washer faces the blade. On early model decks, make sure that the hole in the washer is aligned with the hexagon portion of the spindle.

How to remove/install mower blades?

  1. Engage park brake.
  2. Remove cap screw, washer, blade(s), spacer, if equipped, and cup.
  3. Inspect blade(s) for cracks, wear, or damage. Replace if necessary.
  4. Sharpen and balance as necessary.

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

How to remove/install the front axle?

  1. Raise and support the machine.
  2. Remove the wheels (See WHEELS—Removal/Installation).
  3. Disconnect tie rod.
  4. Disconnect drag link.
  5. Remove front axle pivot bolt.
  6. Remove axle pivot shaft.
  7. Remove pivot anchor cap screws. Turn pivot anchors onto pivot shaft.
  8. Remove axle.

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

  • Turn pivot anchors out until axle is secure and fore/ aft movement is eliminated.
  • Tighten pivot anchor cap screws to 25 N•m (228 lb-in.).
  • Tighten drag link lock nuts to 37 N•m (27 lb-ft).

How to remove/install spindle shafts?

  1. Raise and support machine.
  2. Remove the front wheel. (See WHEELS—Removal/ Installation).
  3. Left-hand spindle: disconnect drag link.
  4. Disconnect tie rod.
  5. Remove snap ring and spindle shaft.
  6. Inspect the spindle shaft and bearing for wear or damage. Replace parts if necessary.
  7. Inspect bushings for wear or damage. Replace if necessary, see Bushing Replacement.

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

  • Tighten tie rod lock nut to 23 N•m (200 lb-in.).
  • Tighten drag link lock nut to 37 N•m (27 lb-ft).
  • Apply multipurpose grease to lubrication fittings.

How to replace bushings?

  • Inspect bushings for wear or damage.
  • Bushings are press-fit. Replace using a bushing driver set.
  • Apply multipurpose grease to lubrication fittings.

How to remove/install wheels?

  1. Lift machine high enough to remove weight from wheels. Place jack stands under the machine frame.
  2. Remove hub cap.
  3. Remove snap ring, washer, and wheel.
  4. Inspect front wheel bearings. Replace if necessary.

How to inspect/replace front wheel bearings?

  1. Remove front wheels. (See WHEELS—Removal/Installation).
  2. Remove bearings, seals, and races.
    • Remove bearing on opposite end using a bearing, bushing, and seal driver set and a press.
    • Install bearings flush to wheel hub.
    • Pack areas with multipurpose grease.

How to remove/install the engine hood?

  1. Raise the hood.
  2. Disconnect wiring connector.
  3. Remove cap screws on both sides of the machine.
  4. Remove the engine hood.

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal. * Adjust hood if necessary. (See Hood Adjustment).

How to adjust the hood?

  1. Loosen cap screw on both sides of machine.
  2. Move latch for proper adjustment.
  3. Tighten cap screw.

How to remove/install the seat and support?

  1. Lift seat and disconnect wiring connector.
  2. Remove seat adjustment knobs.
  3. Remove seat and support.

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

How to remove/install the fender deck?

  1. Remove the seat and support. (See SEAT AND SUPPORT—Removal/Installation).
  2. Remove height adjustment knob.
  3. Remove gear shift knob (LX172/LX173).
  4. Remove cap screws.
  5. Remove fender deck.

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

How to remove/install the mower deck lift linkage?

  1. Remove mower deck. (See MOWER DECK—Removal/Installation).
  2. Remove fuel tank. (See FUEL TANK—Removal/ Installation).
  3. Remove engine hood. (See ENGINE HOOD— Removal/Installation).
  4. Remove battery. (See BATTERY—Removal/ Installation).

How to remove the lift assist spring?

  1. Remove the fender deck. (See FENDER DECK—Removal/Installation).
  2. Disconnect the park brake.
  3. Remove the battery. (See BATTERY—Removal/Installation).
  4. Loosen the bolt.
  5. Remove the clip.
  6. Remove the snap ring.
  7. Remove the retainer.
  8. Remove the block.
  9. Remove the lift assist spring from the machine frame.
  10. Inspect all parts for wear or damage. Replace parts as necessary.

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

CLICK HERE TO DOWNLOAD JOHN DEERE LX188 (01) PDF MANUAL

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