HESTAN AGCKPB-LP (01) PDF Document

If you smell gas, follow these steps immediately:

1. Shut off gas to the appliance.

2. Extinguish any open flame.

3. Remove cover.

4. If odor continues, keep away from the appliance and immediately call your gas supplier or your fire department.

1. Do not store or use gasoline or other flammable liquids or vapors in the vicinity of this or any other appliance.

2. An LP cylinder not connected for use shall not be stored in the vicinity of this or any other appliance.

KIT CONTENTS:

• Orifices (center burner)

• Orifice (outer burner)

• Valve (outer burner)

• Instructions

• Label

TOOLS REQUIRED:

• Work gloves

• Safety glasses

• Phillips screwdriver

• Locking pliers

• Thread sealant

• 9/32″ OR 7mm deep socket wrench or nut driver

• Miscellaneous wrenches – 7/16, 1/2, 9/16, 5/8, etc.

The entire procedure is much easier with the appliance completely removed from the enclosure (island). Before proceeding, disconnect the gas and electrical supply.

1. Remove the grate cover, cooking grates, and drip tray from the power burner. Remove the control knobs and the 4 Phillips head screws securing the control panel to the unit.

2. Carefully tilt down the control panel and disconnect the wiring to the light switch and the LED light bar. Remove the control panel completely and set it aside.

3. It is highly recommended to take a photo or carefully label each wire terminal on each microswitch on each valve. Make a notation of which wires go to which valve before proceeding. The left valve will be replaced as part of this process.

To remove the octagonal burner, first remove the burner cap from the center burner, and then the small cover at the rear of the burner. Also remove the 2 screws securing the burner to the rear wall of the unit. Tilt the burner up and out of the unit. You may have to carefully twist the burner around a little to get it out. Take care not to damage the spark igniter next to the burner. Rough handling of the igniter can crack the ceramic body, causing an ignition failure. Handle with care.

1. Flip over the entire unit and place it on a protected surface to avoid scratching the stainless steel outer surfaces. You will be replacing the valve on the left. Using a 5/8″ wrench, disconnect the flex hose nut at the end of the valve. You can leave the hose attached to the elbow. Make a note of the space between the orifice and the locknut.

2. You will also need to remove the orifice from the elbow fitting. It is possible to leave the elbow in place and remove the orifice only. You will need some locking pliers to keep the elbow from rotating while you use a 1/2″ wrench to remove the orifice. Notice there is a locknut just below the orifice which must remain tight against the sheetmetal.

To remove the manifold pipe, remove the three (3) nuts at the indicated locations using a 7/16″ wrench. Carefully remove the manifold, taking care not to unduly bend or kink the flex hoses still attached to the valve on the right. If you feel it is necessary to remove these flex hoses, be sure to note which hoses go where. Do not bend the hoses too much as they can crack. Do not kink the hoses. Be careful not to snag any wires still attached inside the unit.

With access to the manifold, you can convert the gas type of the regulator. The conversion from NG to LP gas is shown as an example:

1. Remove the cap from the regulator. Use caution, as there is a small spring inside.

2. Under the cap, there is a small plastic spring guide (usually colored blue). Unscrew this part.

3. Flip the spring guide over and re-install it in the cap.

4. Re-install the cap into the regulator.

1. Using an adjustable wrench or locking pliers, unscrew the left valve from the manifold.

2. Before installing the new valve, apply a very small amount of thread sealant to the threads. DO NOT ALLOW ANY THREAD SEALANT TO GET INSIDE THE VALVE! Even a small amount can clog the internal passages inside the valve.

3. Screw the new valve into the pipe using the same number of turns as the original valve to maintain a gas-tight fit. Line up the valve stem as close as possible so the knob will go back on straight during re-assembly.

Install the new orifice slowly to avoid cross-threading and damaging the threads. Consult the orifice chart for identification of orifice size. The orifice will become noticeably harder to turn as you proceed. Use the same technique of holding the elbow with locking pliers to prevent it from rotating. Check to make sure the locknut is tight against the sheetmetal, and the orifice must be screwed on until touching or almost touching the locknut.

1. Re-install the manifold and tighten the 3 nuts securing it inside the unit.

2. Re-install any flex hoses you removed earlier. Thread sealant is not needed on flex hose connections. Tighten everything well with even hand pressure.

3. Reconnect any interior wires you may have disconnected earlier. Make sure the wire harness is tucked neatly to one side of the unit and secured with the wire management clips inside, away from hot metal surfaces. Wires and hoses must not interfere with the drip-pan when re-installed.

4. Once all inside components are re-installed and secure, you can flip over the unit again.

1. Reach inside the unit to hold up the orifice holder against the underside of the burner bowl (to prevent it from falling) and remove the 2 Phillips head screws securing the brass burner base.

2. Continue to hold the orifice holder against the burner bowl and reinstall the 2 Phillips head screws back onto the orifice holder temporarily, so it doesn’t fall. At this point you can change out the orifices for the center burner. It is not necessary to disconnect the flex hoses, but do not bend them too much, or kink them.

3. Use a nut driver or deep socket wrench (9/32″ or 7 mm) to remove the two orifices (Main Burner and Simmer Ring) from the orifice holder. Install the new orifices and remount the brass burner base in the same manner it was removed. Consult the orifice chart for identification of orifice sizes. The sizes are stamped on the orifices.

1. Great care should be used when re-installing the octagonal burner. It must be correctly centered and secured on the main orifice before any attempt is made to relight the burner. Once re-installed on the orifice and the rear bracket is secured again with the 2 screws, the burner should rest flat and have no side-to-side movement.

2. Take care not to damage the spark igniter next to the burner. Positioning of the spark igniter is critical to avoid nuisance sparking when the unit is turned on. Once the burner is in place and secured, the igniter should almost touch the burner.

3. Re-install the center burner cap and cooking grates.

After these steps, proceed to the leak testing section before re-installing the control panel, knobs, etc.

Gas Supply Pressure Notes:

• NG is 7″ SUPPLY -> 4″ AT MANIFOLD

• LP is 11″ SUPPLY -> 10″ AT MANIFOLD

A complete gas tightness check must be performed on all gas-carrying components.

BEFORE TESTING:

• Do not smoke while leak testing.

• Never leak test with an open flame.

• Make a soap solution of one part liquid detergent and one part water for leak testing purposes.

• Apply the solution to the gas fittings by using a spray bottle or a brush.

• For LP units, always check with a full LP cylinder.

TO TEST:

• Make sure all control valves are in the “OFF” position.

• Apply the soap solution described above to all fittings, hoses, etc.

• Turn the gas supply on.

• CHECK ALL CONNECTIONS! Check from the supply line, or LP cylinder up to and including the manifold pipe assembly. Check all the hoses from end to end. Bending of the hoses may have resulted in small cracks in the hoses which must be found. Apply the soapy solution liberally to detect any leaks. If hoses are cracked, you will need to replace them.

• Soap bubbles will appear where a leak is present. If a leak is present, immediately turn off gas supply, tighten any leaking fittings, turn the gas supply back on, and recheck.

• If you cannot stop a gas leak, turn off the gas supply and call the dealer where you purchased your power burner.

• DO NOT USE THE POWER BURNER UNTIL ALL CONNECTIONS HAVE BEEN CHECKED AND DO NOT LEAK.

The octagonal burner requires adjustment of the air-shutter. This step is very important to ensure successful burner performance after conversion. First, loosen the shutter screw on the air shutter.

Adjust as follows:

• Turn the valve on “HIGH”, match light the burner and allow it to warm up for 10 minutes. Be careful because the burner will be hot from this point forward.

• If the flame is yellow, indicating insufficient air, turn the air shutter clockwise to allow more air to the burner.

• If the flame is noisy and tends to lift away from the burner ports, indicating too much air, turn the air shutter counter-clockwise to reduce the amount of air to the burner.

• Once you have established a good flame, shut off the burner and allow it to cool completely.

• Reach inside the unit and re-tighten the shutter screw.

• Perform one last check that the octagon burner is properly seated on its orifice and rear hanger bracket.

The appearance of the gas flame can tell you if an adjustment is needed:

• Natural Gas (NG): A proper flame for Natural Gas should be blue with a well-defined inner cone and minimal to no yellow tipping.

• LP Gas: A proper flame for LP gas should be mostly blue, but may have a slightly more yellow tip than a natural gas flame.

• Needs Adjustment: A flame that is mostly yellow, lazy, and possibly producing soot indicates insufficient air and requires adjustment. A flame that is noisy and lifts off the burner ports indicates too much air and also requires adjustment.

After conversion, the provided conversion label must be attached to the unit next to the existing rating label, which is located under the drip pan. The qualified service technician who performed the conversion must fill in the following information on the label:

• Gas Type (the new gas type)

• Manifold Pressure

• BTU Rates for each burner type (using the values from the orifice chart)

The technician should also sign and date the label.