JOHN DEERE HORICON WORKS 316 (01) PDF MANUAL

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JOHN DEERE HORICON WORKS 316 (01) PDF SUMMARY:

What are the safety precautions to follow when working with John Deere 316, 318 and 420 Lawn and Garden Tractors?

Read all safety messages in the manual and on machine safety signs.
Keep safety signs in good condition and replace missing or damaged safety signs.
Learn how to operate the machine and how to use controls properly.
Keep the machine in proper working condition.
Do not let anyone operate the machine without instruction.
Avoid modifying the machine in ways that were not authorized.

What should you do if you don’t understand any part of the John Deere 316, 318 and 420 Lawn and Garden Tractors manual and need assistance?

Contact a John Deere dealer.

What should you do when working around fuel?

Do not smoke or work near heaters or other fire hazards. Store flammable fluids away from fire hazards. Also, do not incinerate or puncture pressurized containers.

What should you do to maintain the machine safely?

Make sure the machine is clean of trash, grease, and debris and do not store oily rags.

How can you prevent battery explosions?

Keep sparks, lighted matches, and open flame away from the top of the battery because battery gas can explode. Never check battery charge by placing a metal object across the posts, instead, use a voltmeter or hydrometer. Do not charge a frozen battery because it may explode; warm the battery to 16˚C (60˚F).

What should you do to prepare for emergencies?

Keep a first aid kit and fire extinguisher handy and keep emergency numbers for doctors, ambulance service, hospital, and fire department near the telephone.

How can you prevent acid burns when handling batteries?

Fill batteries in a well-ventilated area.
Wear eye protection and rubber gloves.
Avoid breathing fumes when electrolyte is added.
Avoid spilling or dripping electrolyte.
Use proper jump start procedure.

What should you do if you spill acid on yourself?

Flush your skin with water.
Apply baking soda or lime to help neutralize the acid.
Flush your eyes with water for 15—30 minutes and get medical attention immediately.

What should you do if acid is swallowed?

Do not induce vomiting.
Drink large amounts of water or milk, but do not exceed 2 L (2 quarts).
Get medical attention immediately.

What do Material Safety Data Sheets (MSDS) provide?

Specific details on chemical products, physical and health hazards, safety procedures, and emergency response techniques.

What should you do before starting any job using a hazardous chemical?

Check the Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) to know exactly what the risks are and how to do the job safely, then follow procedures and recommended equipment.

How can you avoid high-pressure fluids?

Avoid the hazard by relieving pressure before disconnecting hydraulic or other lines and tighten all connections before applying pressure. Search for leaks with a piece of cardboard and protect hands and body from high pressure fluids.

What should you do if an accident occurs involving high-pressure fluids?

See a doctor immediately. Any fluid injected into the skin must be surgically removed within a few hours or gangrene may result. Doctors unfamiliar with this type of injury should reference a knowledgeable medical source.

How to prepare machine for repair?

Move hydrostatic control lever to STOP position.
Disengage PTO’s
Lower all equipment to the ground.
Engage park brake.
Stop the engine and remove the key.
Operate all hydraulic control levers to release hydraulic pressure in the system.

How to properly support the machine?

Always lower the attachment or implement to the ground before working on the machine. If you must work on a lifted machine or attachment, securely support the machine or attachment. Do not support the machine on cinder blocks, hollow tiles, or props that may crumble under continuous load. Do not work under a machine that is supported solely by a jack and follow recommended procedures in this manual.

What protective clothing should be worn?

Wear close fitting clothing and safety equipment appropriate to the job. Wear a suitable hearing protective device such as earmuffs or earplugs to protect against objectionable or uncomfortable loud noises. Do not wear radio or music headphones while operating the machine.

How to prepare the work area?

Clean work area and machine.
Make sure to have all necessary tools to do the job.
Have the right parts on hand.
Read all instructions thoroughly; do not attempt shortcuts.

What are the safety measures to take when servicing machines?

Tie long hair behind your head and do not wear a necktie, scarf, loose clothing, or necklace when working near machine tools or moving parts. Remove rings and other jewelry to prevent electrical shorts and entanglement in moving parts.

How to work in a ventilated area?

If it is necessary to run an engine in an enclosed area, remove the exhaust fumes from the area with an exhaust pipe extension. If you do not have an exhaust pipe extension, open the doors and get outside air into the area.

How to illuminate work area safely?

Use a portable safety light for working inside or under the machine and make sure the bulb is enclosed by a wire cage.

What is the procedure for lifting equipment safely?

Lifting heavy components incorrectly can cause severe injury or machine damage, therefore you should follow recommended procedure for removal and installation of components in the manual.

How to remove paint before welding or heating?

Do all work outside or in a well ventilated area and dispose of paint and solvent properly. When sanding or grinding paint, avoid breathing the dust and wear an approved respirator. If you use solvent or paint stripper, remove stripper with soap and water before welding and allow fumes to disperse at least 15 minutes before welding or heating.

How to avoid heating near pressurized fluid lines?

Do not heat by welding, soldering, or using a torch near pressurized fluid lines or other flammable materials because flammable spray can be generated, resulting in severe burns.

What are the safety guidelines for servicing tires?

Do not attempt to mount a tire unless you have the proper equipment and experience to perform the job. Always maintain the correct tire pressure and do not inflate the tires above the recommended pressure. Never weld or heat a wheel and tire assembly, because the heat can cause an increase in air pressure resulting in a tire explosion and welding can structurally weaken or deform the wheel. When inflating tires, use a clip-on chuck and extension hose long enough to allow you to stand to one side and not in front of or over the tire assembly and use a safety cage if available. Check wheels for low pressure, cuts, bubbles, damaged rims, or missing lug bolts and nuts.

How to avoid harmful asbestos dust?

Avoid breathing dust that may be generated when handling components containing asbestos fibers, and avoid creating dust. Never use compressed air for cleaning and avoid brushing or grinding material containing asbestos. When servicing, wear an approved respirator and use a special vacuum cleaner to clean asbestos. If a special vacuum cleaner is not available, apply a mist of oil or water on the material containing asbestos and keep bystanders away from the area.

How to practice safe maintenance?

Understand service procedure before doing work and keep area clean and dry. Never lubricate, service, or adjust machine while it is moving and keep hands, feet, and clothing from power-driven parts. Disengage all power and operate controls to relieve pressure, lower equipment to the ground, stop the engine, remove the key, and allow machine to cool. Securely support any machine elements that must be raised for service work. Keep all parts in good condition and properly installed, fix damage immediately, replace worn or broken parts, and remove any buildup of grease, oil, or debris.

What should be done before making adjustments on electrical systems or welding on the machine?

Disconnect the battery ground cable (-).

What are the guidelines for using proper tools?

Use tools appropriate to the work, as makeshift tools and procedures can create safety hazards. Use power tools only to loosen threaded parts and fasteners. For loosening and tightening hardware, use the correct size tools and do not use U.S. measurement tools on metric fasteners. Avoid bodily injury caused by slipping wrenches and use only service parts meeting John Deere specifications.

How to dispose of waste properly?

Use leakproof containers when draining fluids and do not pour waste onto the ground, down a drain, or into any water source. Air conditioning refrigerants escaping into the air can damage the Earth’s atmosphere and government regulations may require a certified air conditioning service center to recover and recycle used air conditioning refrigerants. Inquire on the proper way to recycle or dispose of waste from your local environmental or recycling center, or from your John Deere dealer.

What should you do before returning the machine to the customer?

Before returning machine to customer, make sure machine is functioning properly, especially the safety systems, and install all guards and shields.

Where are the serial numbers located on the John Deere 316, 318 & 420 Lawn and Garden Tractors?

Product Identification Number: Located on the pedestal, either on the right-hand side or the front top left corner.
Engine Serial Number
Transmission Serial Number: Location is shown with plate (A).
Differential Serial Number: Location is shown with plate (A).
Control Valve Serial Number

How to remove and install the engine?

Disconnect the battery’s negative (-) cable.
Disconnect the headlight lead and headlight ground.
Remove the grille, side panels, hood, hood support, and air cleaner.
Disconnect the fuel pump inlet line, regulator/coil lead, and PTO lead.
Disconnect the positive battery cable, choke cable, throttle cable, battery ground cable at the engine, positive battery cable from the starter, and starter solenoid lead.
Disconnect the drive shaft at the engine.
Loosen the PTO belt tension and remove the belts from the engine.
Remove the engine mounting cap screws.
Attach a load positioning sling to the lift eyes and remove the engine.
Make repairs as necessary.
Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.
- Tighten the engine mounting cap screws to the specified torque.
- When connecting the drive shaft, tighten the cap screws to the specified torque.
- Adjust the PTO belt tension on the horizontal adjuster by tightening the bolt until the spring measures 41 mm (1.600 in).
- Adjust the PTO belt tension on the vertical adjuster by tightening the nut until the spring measures 35 mm (1.380 in).
- Adjust the slow and fast idle.

What are the engine mounting cap screws torque specifications?

316: 39 N·m (29 lb-ft)
318 and 420: 47 N·m (34.5 lb-ft)

What is the drive shaft mounting cap screws torque specification?

27 N·m (20 lb-ft)

What type of fuel is recommended for John Deere 316, 318 and 420 Lawn and Garden Tractors?

Unleaded fuel is recommended. Regular leaded gasoline with an anti-knock index of 87 or higher may be used, but avoid switching from unleaded to regular gasoline to prevent engine damage. Use of gasohol is acceptable as long as the ethyl alcohol blend does not exceed 10 percent, with unleaded gasohol preferred over leaded gasohol.

How should the fuel tank be filled?

Fill fuel tank at the end of each day’s operation, only to the bottom of the filler neck.

What should you do if there is a very slow turnover of fuel in the fuel tank or supply tank?

It may be necessary to add a fuel conditioner to prevent water condensation. Contact your John Deere dealer for proper service or maintenance recommendations.

What type of engine oil is preferred for John Deere 316, 318 and 420 Lawn and Garden Tractors?

John Deere TURF-GARD™
John Deere PLUS-4®

What other engine oils may be used?

Other oils may be used if they meet one or more of the following:

API Service Classification SH
API Service Classification SG
CCMC Specification G5

Arctic oils (such as Military Specification MIL-L-46167B) may be used at temperatures below -30˚C (-22˚F).

What type of transmission and hydraulic oil is preferred?

John Deere HY-GARD®
John Deere Low Viscosity HY-GARD®

What other transmission and hydraulic oils are also recommended?

John Deere UNI-GARD™
John Deere BIO-HY-GARD™

What standards should other transmission and hydraulic oils meet?

John Deere Standard JDM J20C
John Deere Standard JDM J20D
John Deere Standard JDM J27A

What should you not use for transmission and hydraulic oil application?

Engine oil.

What should you do if you consider the use of arctic oils?

Arctic oils (such as Military Specification MIL-L-46167B) may be used at temperatures below -30˚C (-22˚F).

What should you not mix BIO-HY-GARD with?

BIO-HY-GARD should not be mixed with mineral oils because this reduces the biodegradability and makes proper oil recycling impossible.

What type of grease can be used?

SAE Multipurpose EP Grease with a maximum of 5% molybdenum disulfide
SAE Multipurpose EP Grease

What should you do if you consider the use of arctic grease?

Greases meeting Military Specification MIL-G-10924F may be used as arctic grease.

What type of mower deck gear case oil is recommended?

John Deere API GL-5 Gear Oil.

What performance requirements must other mower deck gear case oils meet?

API Service Classification GL-5
Military Specification MIL-L-2105C

What should you do if you consider alternative and synthetic lubricants?

Consult your John Deere dealer to obtain information and recommendations because conditions in certain geographical areas may require lubricant recommendations different from those printed in this manual and some John Deere lubricants may not be available in your location. Synthetic lubricants may be used if they meet the performance requirements listed in this manual.

How should lubricants be stored?

Use clean containers to handle all lubricants and store lubricants and containers in an area protected from dust, moisture, and other contamination. Store containers on their side to avoid water and dirt accumulation.

Should you mix different brands or types of oil?

In general, avoid mixing different brands or types of oil because mixing different oils can interfere with the proper functioning of these additives and degrade lubricant performance.

How to perform service recommendations for O-ring boss fittings for straight fittings?

Inspect O-ring boss seat for dirt or defects.
Lubricate O-ring with petroleum jelly and place electrical tape over threads to protect O-ring. Slide O-ring over tape and into O-ring groove of fitting, then remove tape.
Tighten fitting to torque value shown on chart.

How to perform service recommendations for O-ring boss fittings for angle fittings?

Back-off lock nut (A) and back-up washer (B) completely to head-end © of fitting.
Turn fitting into threaded boss until back-up washer contacts face of boss.
Turn fitting head-end counterclockwise to proper index (maximum of one turn).
Hold fitting head-end with a wrench and tighten locknut and back-up washer to proper torque value.

How to perform service recommendations for flat face O-ring seal fittings?

Inspect the fitting sealing surfaces to ensure they are free of dirt or defects.
Inspect the O-ring to ensure it is free of damage or defects.
Lubricate O-rings and install them into the groove using petroleum jelly to hold them in place.
Push O-ring into the groove with plenty of petroleum jelly so O-ring is not displaced during assembly.
Index angle fittings and tighten by hand pressing joint together to ensure O-ring remains in place.
Tighten fitting or nut to torque valve shown on the chart per dash size stamped on the fitting. Do not allow hoses to twist when tightening fittings.

How to perform service recommendations for tube and hose fitting, 37˚ flare and 30˚ cone seat connector?

Inspect the flare and the flare seat to ensure they are free of dirt and defects. If repeated leaks occur, inspect for defects with a magnifying glass. If burrs and raised nicks on the connector body cannot be removed with a slip stone, replace the connector.
Defects in the tube flare cannot be repaired; replace the tube. Overtightening a defective flared fitting will not stop leaks.
As a field repair, a ductile truncated cone shaped washer can be used between the tube flare and connector body because these washers are soft enough to fill defects in the seat and flare and will also seal the connection. Ductile washers are available from industrial supply houses.
Align the tube with the fitting before attempting to start the nut because failure to do so can cause a deformed flare and subsequent leaks. Install hoses without twists because a twisted hose attempts to straighten out when pressure is applied, which exerts a torque on the connection, eventually causing failure.
Lubricate the connection with hydraulic fluid, petroleum jelly, or soap and tighten the swivel nut by hand until it is snug.
Mark a line across the nut and connector body, which will serve as a visual indicator as to whether the nut has been tightened and by how much.
Using two wrenches, one on the connector body and a torque wrench on the nut, tighten the nut to the torque value as shown in the chart. In the case of a hose, it may be necessary to use three wrenches to prevent twisting.

How to remove the front PTO clutch?

Remove grille and right-hand side panel.
Loosen PTO belt tension and remove belts from PTO clutch sheaves.
Disconnect PTO clutch wire lead.
On 316 and 318:
- Remove armature assembly from field coil.
- Remove three springs.
- Early 420 Shown
On 420:
- Push idler back and remove brake plate.
- Remove three springs.
- Remove armature assembly from field coil.
- NOTE: Note position of clutch wire lead to aid in installation.
Remove rotor from field coil.
Remove key from shaft.
Remove field coil.

How to disassemble, inspect, and assemble the front PTO clutch?

Inspect armature for bent, weak, or broken contact springs. Replace armature if damaged.
Inspect rotor and armature face contacts for wear. Replace if worn or grooved. Clean face contacts of dirt or foreign material.
Inspect armature bearing for wear or damage. Replace if necessary.
To replace armature bearing; remove snap ring.
Remove hub and bearing from armature using a press and a 1-11/16 in. driver disk. Make sure assembly is supported on pulley, NOT on armature plate.
Remove shim washer from inside pulley hub.
Remove hub from bearing using a press and a 1-3/4 in. driver disk.
Install hub into new bearing using a press and driver disk.
Install shim washer in bottom of pulley hub.
Support armature on spring rivets and install bearing/hub assembly into pulley hub with a press and a 2-15/16 in. driver disk.
- IMPORTANT: Support the armature assembly on the spring rivets when installing bearing/hub assembly into armature assembly, or damage to armature and springs will occur.
Install snap ring.
Inspect field coil for wear or damage. Replace if necessary.
Test field coil for electrical continuity.
- Early version:
  - Attach field coil lead to positive (+) terminal of a charged storage battery.
  - Set coil base on negative (—) battery terminal.
  - Put a steel bolt across coil. Electromagnetic action will hold bolt to coil if coil is good. If bolt does not stick to coil, replace the coil.
- Later version:
  - Attach a jumper wire from one terminal of two-pin connector to negative (—) battery terminal.
  - Attach another jumper wire from the remaining terminal of two-pin connector to positive (+) battery terminal.
  - Put a steel bolt across coil. Electromagnetic action will hold bolt to coil if coil is good. If bolt does not stick to coil, replace the coil.

How to install the front PTO clutch?

Install field coil and fasten with four cap screws and lock washers. Be sure coil assembly pilots, on backside of coil, are seated in engine face. Tighten cap screws.
Install rotor and key.
On 316 and 318:
- Install three springs on mounting studs.
- Install armature assembly.
On 420:
- Install armature assembly.
- Install three springs on mounting studs.
- Push idler back and install brake plate.
- NOTE: Some models have a notch in the hub of the armature assembly. This notch MUST slip over the extended key in the crankshaft.
Install lock nuts. DO NOT tighten nuts.
Install washer and cap screw on end of crankshaft. Tighten cap screw to 47 N·m (35 lb-ft).
Connect PTO clutch wire lead.
- IMPORTANT: Make sure clutch wire lead is in same position as when removed, to prevent shorting of wires.
Put a 0.46 mm (0.018 in.) flat feeler gauge through slots in brake plate between rotor and armature. Turn lock nuts until space between rotor and armature is 0.46 mm (0.018 in.). Be sure all three nuts are adjusted so space between armature and rotor is adjusted to specification at each of three slots in brake plate.
After adjusting, turn ignition switch ON. Move PTO switch ON and OFF several times to seat parts. Turn ignition switch OFF. Recheck clearance and adjust as necessary.
Install PTO clutch belts.
On 420, lubricate idler shaft with multipurpose grease.
When adjusting PTO belt tension on horizontal adjuster, tighten bolt until spring measures 41 mm (1.600 in.). When adjusting PTO belt tension on vertical adjuster, tighten nut until spring measures 35 mm (1.380 in.).
Install right-hand side panel and grille.

How to remove and install the charge pump?

Remove fender deck and fuel tank.
Remove drive shaft. (See procedure in Group 25).
- CAUTION: To avoid injury from escaping fluid under pressure, stop engine and relieve the pressure in the system before disconnecting or connecting hydraulic or other lines. Tighten all connections before applying pressure.
Remove two cap screws and charge pump.
Remove pin (A). Inspect pin for straightness and rounded ends. Replace if necessary.
Inspect machined surface (B) of transmission for severe scoring. If scoring is noted replace transmission.
Make repairs as necessary. (See Disassemble, Inspect and Assemble Charge Pump).
Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.
- Apply clean John Deere Low Viscosity HY-GARD® oil on all internal components.
- Apply petroleum jelly to pin (A) (to hold in place) and lip of oil seal.
- IMPORTANT: Tape end of transmission input shaft to prevent seal damage during charge pump installation.
- Apply tape around end of transmission input shaft.
- Install charge pump onto shaft. Turn pump until flat side of casting is on relief valve side.
- Install mounting cap screws and tighten to 70 N·m (52 lb-ft).
- Remove tape from shaft and apply MPG-2® Multi-Purpose Polymer Grease on splines.

How to disassemble and inspect the charge pump?

Remove inner ring and rotor ring (A).
Remove O-ring (B).
Inspect inner ring key way for damage or shear pin debris.
Inspect rotor ring (A) for cracks or signs of scoring on the outer edge.
Inspect gerotor set for wear or damage. If any component is worn or damaged, replace gerotor set as an assembly.
Pry out seal using a screw driver.
- NOTE: Bearing is press-fit in housing. Remove bearing only if replacement is necessary.
Inspect bearing for wear or damage. Remove bearing using a driver set.
Inspect housing for wear or damage. Replace entire charge pump if necessary.

How to assemble the charge pump?

Apply clean John Deere Low Viscosity HY-GARD® oil on all internal parts.
- IMPORTANT: Always use new seals and O-rings. Damaged or used parts will leak.
- NOTE: Lubricate all seals and O-rings with petroleum jelly during assembly.
If removed, press bearing into housing using a 1-1/8 in. driver disk. Install bearing until flush with housing surface.
Install new seal using a 1-5/8 in. driver disk. Install seal with lip (spring side) toward inside of housing.
Install new O-ring (B). Apply petroleum jelly to seal and housing to hold O-ring in its groove.
Install rotor ring (A) and inner ring. The gerotor set must spin freely in housing.

How to remove and install the charge relief valve?

Remove fender deck and fuel tank.
Remove charge relief valve plug from right side of transmission housing.
Remove shims (A) if equipped, spring and valve.
- IMPORTANT: If relief valve is being disassembled to be cleaned, the same number and thicknesses of shims must be installed when assembled.
Inspect valve and housing for wear or damage. Valve must slide freely in bore. Replace parts if required.
Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.
- Apply clean John Deere Low Viscosity HY-GARD® oil on valve and spring.

How to remove and install the implement relief valve?

Remove fender deck and fuel tank.
Remove implement relief valve plug from top of transmission housing.
Remove shims (A) if equipped, spring and valve.
- IMPORTANT: If relief valve is being disassembled to be cleaned, the same number and thicknesses of shims must be installed when assembled.
Inspect valve and housing for wear or damage. Valve must slide freely in bore. Replace parts as necessary.
Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.
- Apply clean John Deere Low Viscosity HY-GARD® oil on valve and spring.

How to remove the transmission?

Remove drain plug (A) to drain transmission oil. Approximate capacity is 4.7 L (5 U.S. qt).
Remove fender deck and fuel tank.
Remove belly screen/pan.
Loosen two lock nuts and cap screws, if equipped, on drive shaft.
Remove hydraulic pressure line (A) and return line (B). Close all openings with caps and plugs.
Remove safety wire and roll pin (A) or nut and cap screw to disconnect transmission control linkage.
- NOTE: There are different versions of the swashplate control arm. Also, attaching swashplate control arm to the control shaft on transmission is different. Some machines use a safety wire and roll pin, others use a nut and cap screw.
Disconnect two hoses (A and B).
Disconnect oil fill tube hose ©.
Move 2-speed axle shift lever to fast (rabbit) position to aid in removal of linkage.
- NOTE: Steps 9 through 11 are for 420 only. Go to Step 12 to continue removal procedures for all machines.
Remove cotter pin (A), washer (B) and pin (G) to disconnect two-speed differential linkage ©.
Remove cotter pin (F) and pin (E) to disconnect differential lock linkage (D).
Use a floor jack to support transmission and place jack stands under tractor frame.
Remove two bolts or shoulder bolt (A) or bolt, washer and spacer.
- NOTE: Early models have two bolts (A) attaching differential to frame support bracket ©. Later models have one shoulder bolt (A) or one bolt with a washer and spacer.
Disconnect suction hose (B) from transmission. Close all openings using caps and plugs.
Disconnect all other mounting bolts, hoses and clamps needed to remove the transmission and differential.
Early models; Remove differential frame support bracket ©.
- IMPORTANT: It is recommended to replace the early model differential frame support bracket © with the later configuration (D). The early models attached the differential to the frame support bracket with two bolts (A). One in the differential case and the other in the differential cover. When the machine went over rough terrain, the flexing of the cover and case caused the differential gasket to leak. With the later model frame support bracket installed, the slotted hole and single shoulder bolt (A) (attached to the case only) will allow for flexing, eliminating any possible leaks.
Disconnect spring (A).
- NOTE: Disconnect brakes on both sides of machine.
Remove nut (B), plate or washer (D) and spring ©.
Bend tabs (F) flat. Remove two cap screws (E) from each side of machine.
Lower differential and transmission assembly and roll away from frame.
Thoroughly clean outside surface of differential assembly with steam cleaner or cleaning solvent.
Remove four cap screws and spacers (A) to remove transmission.
- IMPORTANT: Mark spacers and cap screws before disassembly. Each spacer must be installed in its original location.
Make repairs as necessary. (See procedures in this group).

How to disassemble the transmission cover?

Thoroughly clean outside surface of transmission using a steam cleaner or cleaning solvent.
Install transmission on a bench fixture.
Remove charge pump (B). (See procedure in this group).
Remove implement relief valve (D). (See procedure in this group).
Remove charge relief valve ©. (See procedure in this group).
Remove filter (A).
Remove hose connector.
Remove two plugs and O-rings (A).
Remove two check valves.
Remove O-ring, backup ring (B), and O-ring (A).
- NOTE: Originally equipped 420 Lawn and Garden Tractor transmissions do no have manually operated check valves. If check valves have been replaced; service replacements will have manually operated check valves.
Internal valve © must move freely inside check valve.
Remove four pipe plugs.
Remove snap ring to remove output shaft drive gear.
Remove O-ring.
- IMPORTANT: Do not disassemble the transmission any further while in the bench fixture.
LOOSEN eight cap screws (do not remove). Remove transmission from bench fixture.
Put transmission on work bench and remove cap screws, center section and gasket (A).
- IMPORTANT: Do not allow internal parts to fall when removing center section.
Remove valve plates (A and B). If it is necessary to pry valve plates loose from center section, use a wooden dowel and pry only at dowel pin grooves.
- IMPORTANT: Do not nick or scratch lapped or machined surfaces of the center section, valve plates or cylinder blocks. Keep pump and motor components separate, they are not interchangeable.
- If valve plates do not come off with center section, remove valve plates from cylinder block assemblies. It may be necessary to apply diesel fuel between valve plate and cylinder block to cut oil film.
Inspect bearing plates. Bearing plates should be flat, free of all nicks, burrs, scratches and erosion around the ports. The bronze metal should show no scoring, smearing or be discolored.
- NOTE: Scoring is indicated by fine scratches or grooves cut into the plate. When these scratches can be detected by feel, finger nail or lead pencil, the plate should be replaced. Some models may have a narrow slot (A) rather then a wide slot (B). While others may NOT have slots at all.
Inspect both bearings in center section, replace if necessary.
Install center section in bench fixture and remove bearing using a 2-jaw puller and a slide hammer.

How to disassemble the pump and motor?

Remove motor and pump cylinder blocks.
- IMPORTANT: Do not nick or scratch lapped surface of cylinder blocks. Piston-to-Bore relationship need not be maintained; keep pump and motor components separate, they are not interchangeable.
Inspect cylinder block assemblies.
- IMPORTANT: Do not interchange pistons between motor and pump cylinder blocks. Pistons and cylinder blocks are matched.
- Lift piston retainer and pistons from cylinder block. Check for free movement of pistons in cylinder bores.
Remove and inspect all pistons.
- Check barrel (B) for scoring, discoloration, or any signs of separation of slippers.
- Check slipper (A) for scoring, smearing, rolled edges and a full 360˚ free rotation on barrel.
- Check lubrication hole © for blockage. Clean with compressed air.
- If any component of the piston is damaged, the cylinder block assembly must be replaced.
Remove and inspect both piston retainers.
- Check retainer for flatness, nicks, burrs and discoloration.
- Check area around piston slippers (A) for scoring.
- If any part of the piston retainer is damaged, the cylinder block assembly must be replaced.
Inspect both cylinder blocks.
- Check ball guide area (A) for scoring, wear and damage.
- Check nine cylinder bores (B) for burrs and scoring.
- Check lapped surface © for wear and damage.
- Check spring assembly (D) for damage and free movement.
- If any part of the cylinder block is damaged, the cylinder block assembly must be replaced.
Remove pump and motor thrust plates using a brass O-ring pick.
- IMPORTANT: Do not scratch machined surfaces of thrust plates or swashplates.
Inspect thrust plates. Check plates for scoring and smeared bronze material.

How to disassemble the pump and motor housing?

Remove snap ring and washer (A) from both trunnion and control shafts.
Push top of swashplate © down until it contacts the stops in the housing.
Drive pin (B) until it bottoms in housing.
- IMPORTANT: Pump shaft and bearing assembly could restrict movement of swashplate. Full swashplate movement is approximately 25 mm (1 in.) in each direction. If necessary tap shaft with a soft faced hammer.
- IMPORTANT: DO NOT drive pins after they bottom. Housing damage will result.
Drive two pins (D) until the lower one bottoms in housing.
Turn swashplate to the neutral position. Pins should fall into housing.
Repeat the above steps to remove second pin (D).
Remove control shaft (E) and trunnion shaft (A) to remove swashplate.
Inspect swashplate and motor housing (F).
Remove pump shaft.
Inspect bearing, replace if necessary.
- IMPORTANT: Be sure to hold shaft while removing bearing.
Remove bearing using a 1 in. driver disk (A), bearing puller attachment and a press.
Remove three seals from housing.
Inspect trunnion bearing and control shaft bearing. Replace if necessary.
- NOTE: Some transmissions will have bearings, while others will have bushings.
Drive bearings or bushings through housing using a 13/16 in. driver disk (A) for bearings and a 7/8 in. driver disk for bushings.
Remove motor shaft and bearing. Using a 1-in. driver disk (A), and a press.
- IMPORTANT: Be sure to hold shaft and bearing when removing from housing.
Inspect bearing, replace if necessary.
Remove bearing using a 1 in. driver disk (A), bearing puller attachment and a press.
- IMPORTANT: Be sure to hold shaft while removing bearing.

How to assemble the pump and motor housing?

Push motor shaft into bearing until it is on the shaft shoulder using 1 in. driver disk (A), bearing puller attachment, and a press.
- IMPORTANT: Always use new seals and O-rings. Damaged or used parts will leak.
- NOTE: Lubricate all seals and O-rings with petroleum jelly during assembly.
- IMPORTANT: To prevent bearing damage, press only on outer race of bearing when installing motor shaft assembly.
Push motor shaft assembly into housing until bearing is at the bottom of bore using a 1-7/16 in. driver disk (A), socket (B) and a donut type disk © and a press.
- NOTE: There will be approximately 5 mm (3/16 in.) of the bearing race above the mounting surface.
Install housing on bench fixture.
Drive bearings or bushings into housing until they are flush with surface using a 1-1/8 in. driver disk (A).
Install three oil seals. Install seal with lip of seal (spring side) toward inside of housing using a 1-7/16 in. driver disk.
Push pump shaft into bearing until it is on the shaft shoulder using a 1-in. driver disk (A) bearing puller attachment and a press.
Install pump shaft.
- NOTE: Tape over splines to protect seals from possible damage when installing shafts, remove tape after installation.
Install swashplate ©, control shaft (E), and shaft (A).
Drive pin (B) into swashplate and shaft until pin is about 6 mm (1/4 in.) below swashplate surface.
- IMPORTANT: Pump shaft and bearing assembly could restrict movement of swashplate. Full swashplate movement is approximately 25 mm (1 in.) each direction. If necessary tap shaft with a soft faced hammer to seat bearing.
Drive two pins (D) into swashplate and control shaft until top pin is about 6 mm (1/4 in.) below swashplate surface.
Install washer (A) and snap ring on trunnion and control shaft.
Remove housing from bench fixture.

How to assemble the pump and motor?

Put clean John Deere Low Viscosity HY-GARD® oil or an equivalent on all internal parts.
Install pump and motor thrust plates.
Install pistons and piston retainer.
- Lift piston retainer and piston from cylinder block. Check for free movement of pistons in cylinder block before installing in housing.
Install pump and motor cylinder blocks.

How to assemble the transmission cover?

Install two needle bearings. Drive bearings into housing until they are approximately 3 mm (0.118 in.) above the surface of the housing using a 5/8 in. driver disk (A).
- IMPORTANT: Do not nick or scratch lapped or machined surfaces of the center section, valve plates or cylinder block. Keep pump and motor components separate. They are not interchangeable. Always use new seals and O-rings. Damaged or used parts will leak.
- NOTE: Lubricate all seals and O-rings with petroleum jelly during assembly.
Put clean John Deere Low Viscosity HY-GARD® oil on valve plates and housing surface.
Install pump valve plate (B) and motor valve plate (A) over the protruding bearings and align slots in plates with pins in housing.
- IMPORTANT: Pump valve plate (B) has TWO slotted ports (D). Motor valve plate (A) may, or may not have slotted ports. Early models have FOUR slotted ports ©. Quiet hydro’s (later models) have no slotted ports. All service or replacement plates will not have slotted ports.
- NOTE: The motor valve plates are interchangeable between quiet hydros and early models.
Install center section and gasket (A) on housing and install eight cap screws. Tighten cap screws evenly.
- IMPORTANT: Use extreme care when assembling the center section, valve plates and cylinder block to avoid dropping, nicking or scratching lapped surfaces.
- NOTE: Center section will seem springy, this is because the springs inside the cylinder blocks are being compressed.
Install transmission in bench fixture.
- IMPORTANT: Check for proper internal assembly by slowly rotating pump, motor and control shaft while tightening cap screws.
Tighten cap screws to 35 N·m (26 lb-ft).
Install gear on motor shaft (output shaft). Install snap ring.
Install and tighten four pipe plugs.
Install O-ring (A), backup ring (B) and O-ring. Internal valve © must move freely.
Install and tighten two check valves.
Install plugs and O-rings (A).
Install suction line fitting.
Install new filter (A).
Install charge relief valve ©, implement relief valve (D) and charge pump (B). (See procedures in this group).

How to install the transmission?

Install new O-ring (B).
- IMPORTANT: Always use new seals and O-rings. Damaged or used parts will leak.
- NOTE: Lubricate all seals and O-rings with petroleum jelly during assembly.
Install transmission; engage transmission output gear with differential gear.
Install four spacers and cap screws (A) in their original locations as marked during removal. Tighten cap screws to 45 N·m (33 lb-ft).
Position differential assembly under tractor.
On 420; Hold differential lock linkage away from differential using wire, tape, etc.
Lift and position differential assembly. Put drive shaft on transmission input shaft. Turn pump shaft to align splines.
Position brake linkage and install install cap screws (E) on each side of machine. Tighten cap screws to 100 N·m (75 lb-ft). Bend tabs (F) over flat of cap screws.
Install spring ©, plate or washer (D) and nut (B).
- NOTE: Connect brakes on both sides of machine.
Connect spring (A).
Lock brake pedals together (318 and 420) and apply park brake.
Loosen lock nut (A).
Turn nut until spring is 42 mm (1.650 in.) long. Tighten lock nut.
Early models; Install new differential frame support bracket (D).
Install shoulder bolt (A) or bolt, washer and spacer. Tighten to 61 N·m (45 lb-ft).
- NOTE: Early models have two bolts (A) attaching differential to frame support bracket ©. Later models have one shoulder bolt (A) or one bolt with a washer and spacer.
- IMPORTANT: It is recommended to replace the early model differential frame support bracket © with the later configuration (D). The early models attached the differential to the frame support bracket with two bolts (A). One in the differential case and the other in the differential cover. When the machine went over rough terrain, the flexing of the cover and case caused the differential gasket to leak. With the later model frame support bracket installed, the slotted hole and single shoulder bolt (A) (attached to the case only) will allow for flexing, eliminating any possible leaks.
Attach all mounting bolts, hoses and clamps.
Connect suction hose (B).
Remove jack stands and lower tractor.
Connect differential lock linkage (D). Install pin (E) and cotter pin (F).
- NOTE: Steps 18 and 19 are for 420 only. Go to Step 20 to continue installation procedures for all machines.
Connect two-speed differential linkage ©. Install pin (G), washer (B) and cotter pin (A).
Connect oil fill tube hose ©.
Connect two hoses (A and B).
Attach swashplate control arm to control shaft with roll pin and safety wire or cap screw and nut. Tighten nut to 60 N·m (44 lb-ft).
- NOTE: There are different versions of the swashplate control arm. Also, attaching swashplate control arm to the control shaft on transmission is different. Some machines use a safety wire and roll pin, others use a nut and cap screw.
Connect hydraulic pressure line (A) and return line (B).
Tighten two nuts and cap screws, if equipped, on drive shaft to 60 N·m (44 lb-ft) or install drive shaft, if necessary. (See procedure in Group 25).
Install drain plug.
Install belly screen/pan.
Install fuel tank and fender deck.
Fill transmission with the recommended amount of John Deere Low Viscosity HY-GARD® oil.
Bleed the hydraulic system. (See procedure in Section 270, Group 20).
If tractor creeps forward or reverse while in neutral, adjust neutral and neutral return linkage. (See procedures in Section 250, Group 15).

How to inspect and repair the transmission control linkage—version one (all models)?

Remove belly screen/pan, fender deck and fuel tank.
Remove engine side panels, battery and battery base.
Remove right-hand pedestal side panel.
Inspect linkage for wear or damage. Replace parts as necessary.
Adjust hydrostatic lever friction and neutral return linkage. (See procedures in Section 250, Group 15).

How to inspect and repair the transmission control linkage—version two (316 and 318)?

Remove belly screen, fender deck and fuel tank.
Remove engine side panels, battery and battery base.
Remove right-hand pedestal side panel.
Inspect linkage for wear or damage. Replace parts as necessary.
Adjust hydrostatic lever friction. (See procedure in Section 250, Group 15).
Later Models; After connecting swashplate arm (Q) to transmission control shaft, tighten cap screw (P) to 60 N·m (44 lb-ft).
Adjust neutral return linkage. (See procedure in Section 250, Group 15).

How to inspect and repair the transmission control linkage—version two (420)?

Remove belly pan, fender deck and fuel tank.
Remove engine side panels, battery and battery base.
Remove right-hand pedestal side panel.
Inspect linkage for wear or damage. Replace parts as necessary.
Adjust hydrostatic lever friction. (See procedure in Section 250, Group 15).
Later Models; After connecting swashplate arm (Q) to transmission control shaft, tighten cap screw (P) to 60 N·m (44 lb-ft).
Adjust neutral return linkage. (See procedure in Section 250, Group 15).

How to inspect and repair the transmission control linkage—version three (all models)?

Remove belly screen/pan, fender deck and fuel tank.
Remove engine side panels, battery and battery base.
Remove right-hand pedestal side panel.
Inspect linkage for wear or damage. Replace parts as necessary.
After connecting swashplate arm (S) to transmission control shaft, tighten cap screw ® to 60 N·m (44 lb-ft).
Adjust neutral and neutral return linkage. (See procedure in Section 250, Group 15).
Adjust hydrostatic lever friction. (See procedure in Section 250, Group 15).

How do I remove axle?

Disconnect the battery’s negative cable.
Remove drain plug (A) to drain transmission oil. The approximate capacity is 4.7 L (5 U.S. qt). After the oil is completely drained, install and tighten the drain plug.
Raise the rear of the tractor and install support stands.
Remove the rear wheel.
Bend the edge of washer (A) flat against the drum.
Remove the nut and washer.
Pull the drum off the axle. If the drum hits the shoes, turn the adjuster to reduce the drag on the drum from the shoes. If the drum is tight on the shaft from corrosion, remove the drum using a three-leg wheel puller. Do not use an impact puller.
Disconnect spring (A).
Remove nut (B), plate or washer (D), and spring ©.
Bend tabs (A) flat and remove two cap screws.
Remove four cap screws and washers (B) to remove the brake plate assembly ©.
Remove the axle shaft assembly using a bearing puller (A), H-Bar (B), and slide hammer ©.
Inspect bearing (A), replace if necessary.
Remove the bearing using a bearing puller (B) and a press. Be sure to hold the shaft while removing the bearing.
Remove two cap screws (A) to disconnect the axle from the hitch plate (B).
Remove six cap screws to remove the axle housing.
Remove the spacer.
Remove the seal from the differential using a 2-jaw puller and a slide hammer.

How do I install the axle?

Install a new seal 3 mm (0.118 in.) below the machined surface of the differential using a 2-1/16 in. driver disk.
Install the spacer.
Install the axle housing and fasten with six cap screws. Tighten cap screws to 81 N·m (60 lb-ft).
Install and tighten the two hitch plate cap screws (A).
Install the bearing (A) on the axle shaft using a bearing puller (B) and a press. Push the bearing tight against the axle shaft shoulder.
Apply clean transmission fluid to the splined end of the axle shaft.
Carefully install the axle shaft into the housing and through the seal in the differential. Align splines on the shaft with the splined gear inside the differential.
Tap the shaft assembly into the axle housing until the bearing is flush with the housing.
Clean the threads of all four brake plate cap screws and the threaded axle housing using Clean and Cure Primer.
Apply thread lock and sealer (medium strength) on the threads of the brake plate cap screws (A).
Install the brake rod in the brake arm hole.
Install the brake plate assembly (B) on the axle. Install and tighten the four cap screws (A) to specifications.
Install the brake support ©, lock plate (D), and two cap screws. Tighten cap screws to specifications. Bend the lock plate tabs over the flat of the cap screws.
Install spring ©, plate or washer (D), and nut (B).
Connect spring (A).
Lock the brake pedals together (318 and 420) and apply the park brake.
Loosen lock nut (A).
Turn the nut until the spring is 42 mm (1.650 in.) long. Tighten the lock nut.
Apply MPG-2® Multi-Purpose Polymer Grease on the axle shaft.
Install the key and brake drum.
Install the washer and nut. Tighten the nut to specifications.
Bend one side of the washer over the nut to lock the nut in place.
Install the wheel. Tighten the cap screws to specifications.
Remove the support stands.
Fill the differential with the recommended amount of John Deere Low Viscosity HY-GARD® oil.
Connect the battery negative (—) cable.

What is the torque specification for the brake drum-to-axle nut?

88 N·m (65 lb-ft)

What is the torque specification for the rear wheel cap screws?

70 N·m (52 lb-ft)

How do I remove and install the driveshaft on the 316?

Disconnect the battery negative (—) cable.
Remove the right-hand engine side panel.
Remove the belly screen.
Hold the drive shaft using a screwdriver. Remove four cap screws to disconnect the drive shaft from the engine.
Loosen two lock nuts and cap screws, if equipped, on the drive shaft at the transmission pump shaft end.
Push the drive shaft all the way back onto the transmission pump shaft. Turn the front flanged yoke to clear the flywheel coupler.
Push the drive shaft forward to disconnect from the transmission pump shaft.
Remove the drive shaft from the bottom of the machine.
Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

Before installing the drive shaft, apply MPG-2® Multi-Purpose Polymer Grease on the splines of the transmission input shaft.
Apply multipurpose grease to lubrication fittings.

What is the torque specification for the driveshaft cap screws flange-to-engine?

27 N·m (20 lb-ft)

What is the torque specification for the clamping yoke-to-transmission pump shaft?

60 N·m (44 lb-ft)

How do I remove and install the driveshaft on the 318 and 420?

Disconnect the battery negative (—) cable.
Remove the right-hand engine side panel.
Remove the belly screen/pan.
Hold the drive shaft with a screwdriver and remove four cap screws (A) holding the drive shaft to the crankcase pulley.
Loosen two lock nuts and cap screws, if equipped, on the drive shaft at the transmission pump shaft end.
Pull rearward on the drive shaft and turn the U-joint to clear the crankshaft pulley.
On the 318; Remove hydraulic lines (A) from the control valve as necessary to gain clearance for the drive shaft to be pulled forward from the transmission input shaft.
Remove the drive shaft from the tractor.
Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

Before installing the drive shaft, apply MPG-2® Multi-Purpose Polymer Grease on the splines of the transmission input shaft.
Apply multipurpose grease to lubrication fittings.
Bleed the hydraulic system.

How do I disassemble and inspect the driveshaft?

Inspect the flanged yoke (A), splined yoke (B), shaft ©, end yokes (D), and cross and bearing assembly (E) for cracks, wear, and bending.
Remove four snap rings (A).
Remove the cross and bearing assembly using a soft metal rod. Push the bearing down until it can be removed.
Turn the cross and bearing assembly over. Push down until the bearing can be removed.
Separate the end yoke from the splined yoke.
Remove the cross and bearing assembly using a soft metal rod. Push the bearing down until the bottom bearing can be removed.
Remove the cross and top bearing.

How do I assemble the driveshaft?

Install the cross and bearing assembly using a soft-faced hammer or press. Push the bearing down until the snap ring groove is inside the end yoke.
Install the cross in the splined yoke with the grease fitting toward the splined yoke (A).
Install the bearing with a soft metal rod and press or soft-faced hammer. Push the bearing down only until the snap ring groove is inside the splined yoke.
Turn the cross and bearing assembly over and install the other bearing.
Install four snap rings.

How do I remove and install the steering gearbox and shaft?

Remove the drive shaft.
Remove the engine side panels, battery, and battery base.
Remove the fender deck.
Remove the steering wheel.
Disconnect lines (A, B, and C) from the hydraulic control valve.
Remove the nut and line clamp.
Remove the bracket mounting cap screw.
Remove the clip and disconnect the brake neutral return linkage.
Remove the pitman arm nut and washer. Remove the pitman arm using a two-jaw puller.
Remove the cotter pin (A) and washer (B) to disconnect the brake linkage on the left side of the machine frame.
Remove the safety wire and spring pin to remove the brake arm (A), washer (B), and bushing ©.
Remove the left side of the pedestal.
Remove the cotter pin (A) and draft pin (B). Turn the rockshaft control valve linkage © to gain access for steering shaft removal.
Remove the cotter pins (A) and washers (B) to disconnect the brake linkage on the right side of the machine frame.
Remove the cotter pin and washer to disconnect the link from the brake linkage.
Remove the brake arm (A), washer (B), and bushing ©.
Remove the three cap screws (A) from the gearbox mounting plate.
Remove the steering gearbox and shaft as an assembly, from the bottom of the machine.
Make repairs as necessary.
Inspect the steering shaft bushings for wear or damage. Replace if necessary.
Remove bushings using a pilot bearing puller.
Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

If removed, install the steering shaft bushings using a driver set.
Apply multipurpose grease to the I.D. of the steering shaft bushings.

What is the torque specification for the gearbox mounting cap screws?

95 N·m (70 lb-ft)

What is the torque specification for the steering wheel-to-shaft nut?

15 N·m (133 lb-in.)

What is the torque specification for the pitman arm nut?

224 N·m (165 lb-ft)

How do I disassemble and inspect the steering gearbox and shaft?

Put an open-end wrench between both steering shaft universal joints.
Turn the steering shaft using locking pliers to determine the amount of play at universal joints. Replace the steering shaft if play exists.
Remove the cap screw and washer from the universal joint.
Remove the steering shaft from the gearbox.
Inspect the steering shaft spline for wear or damage. Replace if necessary.
Put the gearbox in a vise.
Remove three side cover cap screws.
Hold the preload adjuster screw and remove the adjuster nut.
Remove the pitman shaft, gasket, and side cover as an assembly.
Remove the preload adjuster and shim, if equipped, from the side cover.
Remove the worm bearing adjuster lock nut using a punch and hammer.
Remove the worm bearing adjuster.
Remove the ball nut (A) and worm shaft (B).
Pry out the lower bearing retainer using a screwdriver.
Remove the lower worm bearing cone.
Inspect the bearing cup in the bearing adjuster for wear or damage. Replace if necessary.
Screw the bearing adjuster (A) into the gearbox housing. Remove the bearing cup using a slide hammer and puller from the JDG457 Steering Gear Service Set.
Remove the upper worm bearing cone from the shaft or gearbox housing.
Remove the ball guide screw and clamp.
Remove the ball guides (A), balls (B), and ball nut (D) from the worm shaft ©.
Inspect all parts for wear or damage. Replace as necessary.
Remove the pitman shaft and worm shaft seals from the gearbox housing.
Inspect the needle bearing and bearing cup (A) in the gearbox housing for wear or damage. Replace if necessary.
Remove the needle bearing using a driver from the JDG457 Needle Bearing Steering Gear Service Set.
Remove the bearing cup using a driver set.
Inspect the pitman shaft for roller wear or other damage. Replace if necessary.
Check the preload adjuster (A) end clearance with a feeler gauge as shown. If the clearance is greater than 0.05 mm (0.002 in.), order and install shim (B).

How do I assemble the steering gearbox and shaft?

Install a new worm shaft bearing cup in the gearbox housing, if removed, using a driver set.
Install a new needle bearing in the gearbox housing, if removed, using a driver from the JDG457 Steering Gear Service Set.
Install new pitman shaft and worm shaft seals into the gearbox housing using drivers from the JDG457 Steering Gear Service Set.
Apply multipurpose grease to the lip of seals.
Assemble the ball nut and worm shaft (B) with the narrow end of the ball nut teeth up (A) and the worm shaft at the left.
Insert the ball guide half into the ball nut © as shown.
Fill the circuit with 27 balls (A) and install the other half of the ball guide (B).
Repeat the procedures on the other circuit with the remaining balls and guides.
Install the ball guide clamp with screws and tighten securely.
Pack the upper worm bearing cone with multipurpose grease.
Install the upper worm bearing on the shaft with a small O.D. facing away from the ball nut.
Apply tape around the splined end of the worm shaft.
Install the ball nut (A) and worm shaft (B) with the bearing cone, into the gearbox housing. Remove the tape.
Install a new bearing cup in the worm bearing adjuster, if removed, using a driver set.
Pack the lower worm bearing cone with multipurpose grease.
Install the lower worm bearing cone into the worm bearing adjuster with a large O.D. facing away from the threaded end of the adjuster.
Install the retainer until flush with the outside surface of the adjuster, using a plastic hammer.
Apply a coat of a lithium base grease to the threads of the worm bearing adjuster.
Install the worm bearing adjuster (A).
Center the ball nut (B) in the gearbox housing as shown.
Fill the gearbox with approximately 312 g (11 oz) of multipurpose grease.
Assemble the pitman shaft (A) with the preload adjuster (B) and shim ©, if equipped.
Install the side cover (D) onto the shaft with the preload adjuster.
Turn the preload adjuster screw counterclockwise until it bottoms. Then, back the screw off one-half turn.
Install a new gasket on the side cover.
Apply tape around the end of the pitman shaft.
Center the teeth of the pitman shaft with the teeth on the ball nut.
Install the pitman shaft into the gearbox housing. Remove the tape.
Install the three side cover cap screws. Tighten the cap screws to 40 N·m (30 lb-ft).
Adjust the worm bearing preload:

Tighten the worm bearing adjuster until it bottoms, then loosen one-quarter turn.
Carefully turn the worm shaft all the way to the end of travel, then turn back one-half turn.
Install a 1-1/8 in. socket with a ratchet on the worm bearing adjuster and an 11/16 in. 12-point socket with a torque wrench on the end of the worm shaft.
Tighten the worm bearing adjuster until the torque wrench reads 0.60—1.0 N·m (5—8 lb-in.) rolling torque.
Install the lock nut on the worm bearing adjuster and tighten using a punch and hammer.

Adjust over center preload:

Back off the preload adjuster until it stops, then turn it in one full turn.
Center gear travel by rotating the shaft.
Check the torque required to turn the worm shaft. Record the reading.
Turn the preload adjuster in, until the rolling torque required to turn the worm shaft is 0.50—1.20 N·m (4—10 lb-in.) more than the first reading.
Install the lock nut. Hold the preload adjuster screw and tighten the lock nut to 34 N·m (25 lb-ft).

Install the steering shaft onto the worm shaft as shown. Tighten the cap screws to 24 N·m (212 lb-in.).

What kits are available through the parts catalog?

The following kits are available through the parts catalog:

Steering Column (Tube) Bushing Kit
Steering Valve Seal Kit
Steering Valve Needle Roller Kit
Steering Valve Metering Kit
Steering Valve Spring Kit
Steering Valve Port Cover and Check Valve Kit

How do you remove and install the steering valve and column?

NOTE: Removal and installation procedures for later models may vary slightly.

Remove fender deck.
Remove engine side panels.
Remove battery and battery base.
Remove right-hand pedestal side.
Remove drive shaft. (See procedure in Section 50, Group 25.)
Remove steering wheel.
Disconnect hydraulic lines from bottom of steering valve.
Remove two nuts (A). Move electric module (B) away from steering unit.
Mark forward face of steering unit to aid in installation.
Hold top of steering column and remove nuts ©.
Remove steering unit from bottom of machine.
Make repairs as necessary. (See procedure in this group.)
Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.
- Install steering unit with marks made during removal or with alignment grooves in port manifold and cover, facing toward engine.
- Tighten steering wheel-to-shaft nut to 15 N·m (133 lb-in.).
- Bleed hydraulic system. (See procedure in Section 270, Group 20.)

How do you disassemble and inspect the steering valve and column?

Install DFMX1 Steering Valve Fixture (A) in a vise. (See Section 299 for instructions to make fixture.)
Install steering valve, with steering column down, in fixture. Fasten valve to fixture using four 5/16-24 UNF nuts.
Check position of alignment grooves (B) to aid in assembly.
Four-port and early five-port; Loosen plug one turn.
Remove nuts to remove port cover assembly (four plates bonded together).
Later five-port; Remove port cover and check ball (A).
Remove seal ring and O-rings (A).
Inspect port cover for scratches on machined surfaces or damage to fittings. Replace cover if damaged.
Four-port and early five-port; Remove plug (A), O-ring (B) and check ball ©.
Carefully remove port manifold (three plates bonded together).
Remove three springs (A).
Inspect springs and pins (B) for distortion, wear, or damage.
Inspect port manifold machined surfaces (A) for scratches or scoring. A polished pattern from the rotation of the valve plate and hex drive assembly is normal. All edges (B) must be sharp, free of nicks and burrs.
Remove the valve ring and two seal rings (A). Check valve ring for nicks and scoring. If the valve ring is damaged, it must be replaced.
Remove valve plate. Inspect the slots and ground surfaces for nicks or wear. If the valve plate is scored or the edges are not sharp, the valve plate and valve ring both must be replaced.
Remove and inspect hex drive assembly. Check sides and slot for wear, grooves, or scoring. Pin (A) should be tight and show no wear or damage.
Remove three springs (B).
Inspect springs for broken coils, wear, or damage.
Remove the isolation manifold (four plates bonded together). Check manifold surface, holes and edges for nicks, or unusual wear. A polished pattern from the rotation of the valve plate and commutator cover is normal.
Remove drive link. Check the four crowned surfaces (A) for wear or scoring.
Remove metering ring and upper and lower seals (A). If the bore (B) is scored, the metering ring must be replaced.
Remove metering assembly. Put assembly on a clean surface.
Remove commutator seal (A).
Remove 11 screws to remove commutator cover. Inspect screws for damage and replace if necessary.
Check commutator cover machined surface for nicks, burrs, scoring, or unusual wear. A polished pattern due to rotation of the commutator is normal.
Remove commutator ring and inspect for wear, burrs, cracks, or scoring.
Remove commutator and five pins (A) using a wood dowel or equivalent.
Check commutator machined surface, holes and edges for nicks. Edges must be sharp.
Remove drive link spacer. Check spacer for grooves, wear, or damage.
The rotor should rotate and orbit freely within the stator. Check commutator side of stator face for grooves or scoring.
Measure rotor-to-stator clearance. Center rotor lobe (A) between stator lobes and check clearance directly opposite lobe (A). If rotor-to-stator clearance is more than 0.08 mm (0.003 in.), replace rotor and stator.
Lift the rotor and stator from the drive plate.
Check the drive plate side of the rotor assembly for nicks, grooves, or scoring. A spiral pattern due to rotor movement is normal. The thrust bearing side of the plate should also show a normal wear pattern without grooves, flaking, or dents. The flat sides of the input shaft hole should not be grooved or worn.
Remove parts (A—E).
Inspect parts for wear or damage. Replace if necessary.
Remove upper cover plate (four plates bonded together).
Check plate surface for grooves, dents, or metal flakes. A polished pattern due to the action of the seal is normal.
Remove steering shaft and snap ring (A).
Inspect steering shaft serrations, threads, and flats for grooves, wear, or damage.
Remove washer and steering tube (A).
Inspect bushing (A) for wear or damage. If bushing replacement is necessary, straighten crimped area of steering tube using a punch.
Remove bushing using a 2-jaw puller and slide hammer.
Remove nuts holding the four bolts to the fixture, and remove the bolts.
Inspect bolts for wear or damage. Replace if necessary.

How do you assemble the steering valve and column?

Apply clean John Deere Low Viscosity HY-GARD® oil on all internal parts.
Install four bolts, with short threaded end down, in fixture. Install nuts and tighten finger tight.
Install bushing into steering tube with recess facing into tube, using a driver set. Install bushing 2.5 mm (0.100 in.) below top of steering tube.
Slightly bend edges of steering tube over bushing using a punch.
Apply multipurpose grease to inside of bushing.
Install steering tube (A) on bolts. Be sure the square holes in the steering tube are seated on the square shoulders of the bolts.
Apply multipurpose grease on retainer plate (B) and washer.
Install washer.
Install snap ring (A) on steering shaft.
Install steering shaft with threaded end down into steering tube.
Install upper cover plate over four bolts with the highly polished surface up.
Apply multipurpose grease on the face of the upper cover plate, steering shaft end and thrust bearing (B).
Install parts (A—E).
Put drive plate (A) on a clean surface with slot downward.
Install and turn stator (B) until the stator slots © are aligned with drive plate holes (D).
Install rotor (E) with five pin holes (F) up.
Apply multipurpose grease on spacer.
Install spacer in rotor drive slot.
Install commutator (A) on rotor, with long grooves (B) upward.
Align commutator holes with rotor holes and install five pins.
Put a few drops of clean John Deere Low Viscosity HY-GARD® oil into each groove of the commutator.
Align commutator ring slots (A) with stator slots (B) and install commutator ring.
Align commutator cover holes © with commutator ring slots. Install commutator cover with flat surface toward commutator.
Clean screw threads using Clean and Cure Primer. Apply Thread Lock and Sealer (low strength) to threads of commutator cover-to-commutator screws.
Install 11 screws into metering assembly. DO NOT tighten screws at this time.
Install metering assembly, with drive plate (A) up into metering ring (B).
Install two DFMX2 Alignment Shims © each between drive plate and metering ring 120˚ apart. (See Section 299 for instructions to make shims.)
Turn metering ring over on a flat surface and push metering assembly down. Tighten 11 screws in several steps and in the sequence shown to 1.4 N·m (12 lb-in.).
Remove Shims and metering assembly from metering ring.
Install THICK end of drive link into the slot in the rotor. Hold the drive link and rotate the metering assembly by hand. The rotor should turn freely inside the stator. If the rotor binds or does not move, disassemble and inspect to find the cause.
Apply petroleum jelly on seal ring. Install seal ring on metering ring end without pin holes.
Install metering ring over bolts with pin holes up.
Apply multipurpose grease on drive plate surface.
Install metering assembly, with drive plate down, into metering ring. Turn metering assembly until the steering shaft engages the drive plate hole. When properly seated, the metering assembly is below the surface of the metering ring.
Apply petroleum jelly on new commutator seal (A) and seal ring (B).
Install new commutator seal with yellow mark © or narrow edge, down into commutator cover.
Install seal ring (B) and pins (D).
Install isolation manifold, with recessed slots up, on metering ring.
Install pins ©.
Install three 13 mm (1/2 in.) springs (B) in recessed slots of the isolation manifold.
Install hex drive assembly, with pin (A) up, on drive link.
Apply petroleum jelly on new seal rings (A). Install seal rings on valve ring.
Align valve ring holes (B) with pins © to install valve ring.
Install valve plate, with “PORT SIDE” up, on isolation manifold. Turn valve plate to make sure springs are centered in valve plate spring slots.
Apply clean John Deere Low Viscosity HY-GARD® oil on valve plate.
Install three 25 mm (1 in.) springs (F) in recessed slots (A) of the port manifold.
Install port manifold with springs toward valve plate. Be sure pins (D) engage alignment holes (G) in port manifold. Be sure hex drive assembly pin (B) engages center hole (E) in port manifold.
Four-port and early five-port; Install new O-ring (B) on plug (A). Install check ball ©. Be sure check ball is seated in bottom of hole. Install plug. Do not tighten.
Later five-port; Install check ball (E) in countersunk hole (hole closest to the center of the port manifold).
Apply petroleum jelly on new O-rings (A) and new seal ring (B). Install O-rings and seal ring in port cover.
Install port cover with seals toward port manifold.
Install and tighten four nuts in the sequence shown. Tighten in several steps to 30 N·m (22 lb-ft).
Four-port and early five-port; Tighten plug (A) to 14 N·m (124 lb-in.).
Remove steering valve from fixture.

How do you remove and install the steering cylinder?

Disconnect hydraulic hoses at lines (A).
Support cylinder and remove cotter pins (B), if equipped, nuts © and bolts (D).
Remove steering cylinder (E).
Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.
- Tighten nuts © to 163 N·m (120 lb-ft).
- Bleed the hydraulic system. (See procedure in Section 270, Group 20.)

How do you remove the brakes?

Disconnect battery negative (—) cable.
Raise rear of machine and install support stands under frame.
Remove rear wheel.
Bend edge of washer (A) flat against drum.
Remove nut and washer.
Pull drum off axle.
- If drum hits shoes, turn the adjuster to reduce the drag on drum.
- If drum is tight on shaft from corrosion, remove drum using a three-leg wheel puller. DO NOT use an impact puller.
Inspect lining on brake shoes (A) for wear or oil contamination. Replace shoes if worn. Inspect axle oil seal if shoes are oily.
Inspect return spring (B) and hold-down springs © for wear or stretching.
Check adjuster assembly (D) for ease of movement.
Remove brake return spring (B), hold-down springs ©, adjuster (D), and shoes (A).
Disconnect return spring (A).
Remove nut (B), plate or washer (D) and spring ©.
Bend lock plate tabs (A) flat. Remove two cap screws (B).
Remove four cap screws and washers to remove brake plate assembly.
Remove brake arm © and brake support (D).

How do you install the brakes?

Install brake support (A) on brake arm (B).
Install brake arm in brake plate ©.
Clean the threads of all four brake plate cap screws and threaded axle housing using Clean and Cure Primer.
Apply thread lock and sealer (medium strength) on threads of brake plate cap screws.
Install brake rod (D) in brake arm hole.
Install brake plate assembly on axle. Install and tighten four cap screws to specificctions.
Install brake support (A), lock plate (E) and two cap screws (F). Tighten cap screws to specifications. Bend lock plate tabs over flat of cap screws.
Install spring ©, plate or washer (D) and nut (B).
Connect return spring (A).
Lock brake pedals together (318 and 420) and apply park brake.
Loosen lock nut (A).
Turn nut until spring is 42 mm (1.650 in.) long. Tighten lock nut.
Install shoes (D), adjuster ©, hold-down springs (B), and brake return spring (A).
Apply MPG-2® Multi-Purpose Polymer Grease to axle shaft.
Install key and brake drum.
Install washer and nut. Tighten nut to specifications.
Bend one side of washer over nut to lock nut in place.
Install wheel. Tighten cap screws to specifications.
Remove support stands.
Connect battery negative (—) cable.
Adjust brakes. (See procedure in this group.)

How do you adjust the brakes?

Disconnect battery negative (—) cable.
Raise rear of machine and install support stands under frame.
Reach through slot in back plate (A) with screwdriver for access to star adjuster (B).
Turn wheel by hand. Turn adjusting star until brake shoes begin to drag on drum.
Push brake pedal(s) down firmly to seat brake shoes and check adjustment. Adjust brakes so brake shoes just clear drums and do not drag when pedal(s) are released.
Lock brake pedals together (318 and 420) and apply parking brake.
Check length of spring on both sides of machine. Spring should be approximately 42 mm (1.650 in.).
If necessary, adjust length of spring.
Loosen lock nut (A).
Turn nut until spring is 42 mm (1.650 in.) long. Tighten lock nut.
Remove support stands.
Connect battery negative (—) cable.

How do you inspect and repair the brake pedal and neutral return linkage on a 316?

Remove belly screen and fender deck.
Disconnect return spring (A).
Remove nut (B), plate or washer (D) and spring ©. Inspect springs for weak coils.
Disconnect brake rods from brake pedal.
Inspect linkage for wear or damage. Replace parts as necessary.
If necessary to replace neutral return cam plate (A), remove transmission control lever assembly. (See Inspect and Repair Transmission Control Linkage—Version One or Version Two for 316 and 318 in Section 50, Group 10.)
Install all parts.
Connect brake rods to brake pedal.
Install spring ©, plate or washer (D) and nut (B).
Connect return spring (A).
Apply parking brake.
Loosen lock nut (A).
Turn nut until spring is 42 mm (1.650 in.) long. Tighten lock nut.
Install fender deck and belly screen.

How do you inspect and repair the brake pedals and neutral return linkage on a 318?

Remove belly screen and fender deck.
Disconnect return spring (A).
Remove nut (B), plate or washer (D) and spring ©. Inspect springs for weak coils.
Disconnect brake rods from brake pedal.
Inspect linkage for wear or damage. Replace parts as necessary.
If necessary to replace neutral return cam plate (A), remove transmission control lever assembly. (See Inspect and Repair Transmission Control Linkage—Version One in Section 50, Group 10.)
Install all parts.
Connect brake rods to brake pedal.
Install spring ©, plate or washer (D) and nut (B).
Connect return spring (A).
Lock brake pedals together and apply parking brake.
Loosen lock nut (A).
Turn nut until spring is 42 mm (1.650 in.) long. Tighten lock nut.
Install fender deck and belly screen.

How do you inspect and repair the brake pedals and neutral return linkage on a 420?

Remove belly pan and fender deck.
Disconnect return spring (A).
Remove nut (B), plate or washer (D) and spring ©. Inspect springs for weak coils.
Disconnect brake rods from brake pedal.
Inspect linkage for wear or damage. Replace parts as necessary.
If necessary to replace neutral return cam plate (A), remove transmission control lever assembly. (See Inspect and Repair Transmission Control Linkage—Version One or Version Two for 420 only in Section 50, Group 10.)
Install all parts.
Connect brake rods to brake pedal.
Install spring ©, plate or washer (D) and nut (B).
Connect return spring (A).
Lock brake pedals together and apply parking brake.
Loosen lock nut (A).
Turn nut until spring is 42 mm (1.650 in.) long. Tighten lock nut.
Install fender deck and belly pan.

How do you inspect and repair the park brake lever?

Remove belly screen/pan.
Inspect all parts for wear or damage. Replace as necessary.

How do you remove and install the hydraulic control valve on a 316 and 318?

NOTE: Removal and installation procedures for later models may vary slightly.

Remove ten cap screws © and belly screen (B).
Disconnect suction hose (A) to drain transmission oil. Approximate capacity is 4.7 L (5 U.S. qt).
Remove hydraulic filter.
On 316; Remove fender deck.
On 316; Remove both engine side panels, battery, battery base and left-hand side pedestal panel.
Disconnect hydraulic lines from control valve.

How do you disassemble, inspect, and assemble the single-spool hydraulic control valve?

There are instructions for the disassembly, inspection, and assembly of the single-spool hydraulic control valve.

How do you disassemble, inspect, and assemble the two-spool hydraulic control valve?

There are instructions for the disassembly, inspection, and assembly of the two-spool hydraulic control valve.

How do you disassemble, inspect, and assemble the three-spool hydraulic control valve?

There are instructions for the disassembly, inspection, and assembly of the three-spool hydraulic control valve.

What other materials are needed for hydraulic control valve maintenance?

M79292 MPG-2® Multi-Purpose Polymer Grease Apply to spool springs and end cap cavities.
TY6305/TY9485/764 Clean and Cure Primer Cleans parts and speeds cure of sealant.
T43512/TY9473/242 Thread Lock and Sealer (Medium Strength) Apply to threads spool screws.

What service parts kits are available for hydraulic control valves?

Single-Spool Valve: Spring Center Kit, Load Check Kit, Seal Kit
Two-Spool Valve:
- Version One: Seal Kit
- Versions Two and Three: Seal Kit, Detent Replacement Kit
- Versions Four and Five: Seal Kit, Load Check Kit, Spring Center Kit, Float Detent Kit, Valve Detent Kit
Three-Spool Valve:
- Version One, Two and Three: Seal Kit, Detent Replacement Kit
- Version Four: Seal Kit, Load Check Kit, Spring Center Kit, Float Detent Kit

How do you remove cotter pin(s) from draft pin(s)?

Remove cotter pin(s) (A) from draft pin(s) (B). Disconnect control linkage.

How do you remove the hydraulic control valve?

Remove belly pan.
Disconnect hydraulic lines from control valve.
Disconnect control linkage.
Remove two mounting bolts (A) and control valve.

How do you install the hydraulic control valve?

Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.

Fill transmission with the recommended amount of John Deere Low Viscosity HY-GARD® oil.
Bleed the hydraulic system. (See procedure in Section 270, Group 20).

What should you always use when assembling the hydraulic control valve?

Always use new O-rings. Damaged or used parts will leak.

What should you lubricate all O-rings with during assembly?

Lubricate all O-rings with petroleum jelly during assembly.

What should you inspect all parts for?

Inspect all parts for wear or damage. Replace as necessary.

What should you apply on all internal parts during assembly?

Apply clean John Deere Low Viscosity HY-GARD® oil on all internal parts during assembly.

What should you clean threads in end of spool (A) and on screw (G) with?

Clean threads in end of spool (A) and on screw (G) using Clean and Cure Primer. Apply thread lock and sealer (medium strength) on threads of screw (G).

What should you apply on spring (E) and inside of cap (H)?

Apply MPG-2® Multi-Purpose Polymer Grease on spring (E) and inside of cap (H).

What is the torque specification for screws (G and I)?

Screws (G and I) should be torqued to 4 N·m (35 lb-in.).

What is the torque specification for plug (J)?

Plug (J) should be torqued to 31 N·m (23 lb-ft).

What should you note to aid in assembly?

Note location and position of fittings and linkage to aid in assembly.

What should you tighten caps (O and Q) to?

Tighten caps (O and Q) to 31 N·m (23 lb-ft).

What should you tighten caps (Q and R) to?

Tighten caps (Q and R) to 31 N·m (23 lb-ft).

What should you tighten detent (J), screw (Q) and screw and washers (O) to?

Detent (J), Screw (Q) and Screw and Washers (O) should be tightened to 4 N·m (35 lb-in.).

What should plugs (A) be tightened to?

Plugs (A) should be tightened to 31 N·m (23 lb-ft).

What should you tighten lock nut (E), if equipped, and caps (S and U) to?

Tighten lock nut (E), if equipped, and caps (S and U) to 31 N·m (23 lb-ft).

How do you remove and install the front axle on a 316 and 318?

Raise front of machine and block securely with jack stands.
Remove cotter pin, if equipped, from steering link/cylinder at steering arm on spindle.
Remove nut and bolt (318) from arm.
Disconnect steering link/cylinder from spindle.
Loosen axle deflector adjustment bolts and turn in to allow maximum clearance.
Place a floor jack under center of axle.
Remove cotter pin from pivot bolt.
Remove pivot bolt nut and remove bolt through axle (towards rear). Remove axle.
Inspect axle and pivot bushings for damage or wear.
Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.
- Apply multipurpose grease to pivot bolt before installing.
- Tighten pivot bolt nut until axle is snug, but still free to pivot.
- Adjust axle deflector adjustment bolts for smooth up and down operation of axle. Axle should move freely without sticking in one spot.

How do you inspect and replace the pivot bushings on a 316 and 318?

Inspect pivot bushings (A) and pivot bolt for wear or damage. The pivot bolt should not be bent or have stripped threads.
Replace bushings if necessary, using a driver set.
Inspect the axle for bends, cracks, or damage. Replace any damaged components.

How do you remove the front axle on a 420?

Raise front of machine and block securely with jack stands.
Remove cotter pin, if equipped, from steering cylinder at steering arm on spindle.
Remove nut and bolt from steering arm.
Disconnect steering cylinder from spindle.
Loosen axle deflector adjustment bolts and turn in to allow maximum clearance.
Remove front grille.
Remove two nuts (A) and belt guard.
Loosen belt adjuster (A), using a screwdriver or bar to keep the adjuster from cocking as it is loosened.
Remove both belts from sheaves.
Remove snap ring from drive pulley.
Remove drive pulley from PTO shaft.
Remove two pivot pin retaining nuts (A).
Place a floor jack under center of axle.
Slide pivot pin (A) out towards front of tractor. Remove axle.
Inspect pivot pin bore (B) and axle © for damage or excessive wear. Replace axle if necessary.
Inspect pivot pin for damage or wear.

How do you disassemble and inspect the pivot pin on a 420?

Remove snap ring (A).
Push PTO shaft (A) and bearing (B) from pivot pin using a press.
Inspect PTO shaft bearing (A) for wear or damage. Replace if necessary.
If replacing bearing, remove snap ring (B).
Push PTO shaft from bearing using a press and a knife-edge puller.
Inspect caged needle bearing (A) for wear or damage. Replace if necessary.
Remove needle bearing using a blind hole puller set and a slide hammer.

How do you assemble the pivot pin on a 420?

Support pivot pin on a press. Put a driver disk (A) on bearing (B). Install bearing using a press until disk bottoms on pivot pin.
Install snap ring (A) on PTO shaft.
Support bearing on a knife-edge puller. Press PTO shaft (B) into bearing until it bottoms on snap ring.
Support pivot pin on a press. Install PTO shaft assembly into pivot pin.
Put JDM8-3 Installation Sleeve (A) or a piece of pipe over PTO shaft. Put a suitable size driver disk (B) on Sleeve or pipe.
Press shaft assembly into pivot pin until bearing bottoms in bore.
Install snap ring (A).

How do you install the front axle on a 420?

Slide axle up into machine and align pivot hole with hole in frame.
Slide pivot pin through frame and axle.
Secure pivot pin to frame with retaining nuts (A).
Slide drive pulley onto PTO shaft.
Install snap ring in PTO shaft groove.
Install belts on lower drive sheave and work onto upper sheave.
Tighten belt adjuster:
- When adjusting PTO belt tension on horizontal adjuster, tighten bolt until spring measures 41 mm (1.600 in.).
- When adjusting PTO belt tension on vertical adjuster, tighten nut until spring measures 35 mm (1.380 in.).
Install belt guard with two nuts (A).
Install front grille.
Connect steering cylinder to spindle.
Install bolt and nut through steering arm and cylinder.
Install cotter pin, if equipped, in steering arm bolt.
Adjust axle deflector bolts for smooth up and down operation of axle.
Test for proper axle deflector adjustment, by pushing down on a wheel. The axle should move freely without sticking in one spot. Readjust if necessary.
Lower tractor from jack stands.

How do you remove and install spindles?

Raise front of machine and block securely with jack stands.
Remove front wheels.
Remove cotter pin, if equipped, from steering link/cylinder at steering arm on left spindle.
Remove nut and bolt (318 and 420) from arm.
Disconnect steering link/cylinder from steering arm.
Disconnect both tie rod ends and remove tie rod.
Put an alignment mark across top of steering arm and left spindle to aid in installation.
Remove nut, washer (if equipped), bolt and steering arm from left spindle.
Slide left spindle down out of axle to remove.
Remove snap ring from top of right spindle.
Slide right spindle down out of axle to remove.
Inspect spindles for wear or damage. Replace if necessary.
Inspect bushings for wear or damage. Replace if necessary.
Installation is done in the reverse order of removal.
- On left-hand side; align marks made on steering arm and spindle shaft.
- Apply multipurpose grease to lubrication fittings.
- Adjust toe-in.

How do you inspect and replace spindle bushings?

Remove spindles.
Remove bushings (A) from axle using a long brass drift and a plastic headed hammer.
Install new bushings using a plastic headed hammer. Install bushings until they bottom against axle.

How do you inspect and replace wheel bearings?

Remove front wheels.
The front wheels are equipped with sealed roller bearings in both the front and rear of hub. Check the bearings for damage by spinning the inner race by hand. If the bearing binds or shows excessive wear, it must be replaced.
Tap the bearings out from the back side with a long drift and a hammer.
Install new bearings using a driver set.

How do you adjust the toe-in?

Position wheels so they are pointing straight ahead.
Measure distance between the inner edges of the tires at the rear.
Measure front distance between tires. When properly adjusted, front distance should be 4.8 mm (3/16 in.) shorter than rear distance (a slight toe-in).
Loosen jam nuts and adjust tie rod to lengthen or shorten distance.

Make sure there is free movement of ball joints after tightening jam nuts. 5. Make certain to securely tighten jam nuts after adjusting tie rod.

What should you be sure to do if, for any reason the spindle must be disassembled?

If, for any reason the spindle must be disassembled, be sure to lubricate and torque parts as required.

When assembling bearings and spacer, how full should you fill cavities (J and M) with multipurpose grease?

When assembling bearings and spacer, fill cavities (J and M) 75 percent full of multipurpose grease.

What is the torque specification for lock nut (A)?

Lock Nut (A) should be torqued to 140 N·m (103 lb-ft).

What is the torque specification for cap screw (H)?

Cap Screw (H) should be torqued to 73 N·m (54 lb-ft).

After assembly, how do you fill grease cavity (M)?

After assembly, fill grease cavity (M) by applying multipurpose grease to grease zerk (E).

How must bushing (F) be installed?

Bushing (F) must be installed with grease grooves on end of bushing facing bearing ® or bearings won’t get any grease.

How must bearing (M) be installed?

Bearing (M) must be install with sealed surface side facing away from snap ring (N) to keep grease within grease cavity (P) and bearing.

During assembly, how should you install bushing (F)?

During assembly, install bushing (F) with grease grooves on end of bushing facing toward bearing ®. Also, install bearing (M) with sealed surface side facing away from snap ring (N).

How do you service mower blade spindles on a 38 (Early), 46 and 50-inch mower?

On 50-Inch, Three-Point Hitch Mowers; some spindles may have a grease zerk in the top end of the spindle shaft.

How do you service mower blade spindles on a 38-inch mower (Later)?

Some spindles may not have fan ©.

How do you service mower blade jack sheaves on a 46 and 50-inch mower?

Mower blade jack sheaves normally require no lubrication or service.

What products clean parts and speeds cure of sealant?

TY6305/TY9485/764 Clean and Cure Primer cleans parts and speeds cure of sealant.

What product should be applied to mating surfaces of gear case and caps on early 60-Inch Mower and 260 Rotary Mower?

TY15130/NA/395 Form-In-Place Gasket Sealant should be applied to mating surfaces of gear case and caps on early 60-Inch Mower and 260 Rotary Mower.

How do you disassemble and inspect the mower gear case on a 50-inch mower?

Remove drain plugs (A and B) and drain oil from gear case.
Remove four cap screws (A) and input shaft assembly.
Remove lock nut (B), washer © and bevel gear (E) and bearing from shaft.

Bearing cone is press-fit on bevel gear. Remove bearing only if replacement is necessary. Bearing cone, cup in pillow block and shim(s) are matched and must be replaced as complete assemblies. 4. Inspect bearing cone (D) for wear or damage. Replace if necessary. 5. Remove bearing cone from bevel gear using a knife-edge puller and a press. 6. Remove shim(s) (F) and key (G). 7. Press on threaded end of input shaft © to remove seal (A) and input shaft assembly from pillow block (I).

Bearing cone is press-fit on input shaft. Remove bearing only if replacement is necessary. Bearing cups are press-fit in pillow block. Remove cups only if replacement is necessary. Bearing cones and cups are matched and must be replaced as complete assemblies. 8. Inspect bearing cone (D) and cups (G and H) for wear or damage. Replace as necessary. 9. Remove snap ring (B) and press input shaft © from bearing (D). 10. Remove O-ring (E) and snap ring (F).

Remove bearing cups using a press and driver disk, if possible. Using a punch and hammer can damage pillow block. Use only if necessary. 11. Remove bearing cups (G and H) using a press and driver set or punch and hammer. 12. Remove vent plug (A) and adapter (B) from gear case ©. 13. Remove four cap screws (D). Remove retainer (L) and output shaft assembly (M). 14. Remove output shaft assembly (M) from retainer (L).

Remove and discard crush ring (I). A new crush ring must be installed during assembly to achieve proper output shaft end play. 15. Remove O-ring (G), shim (J), bearing cup (H) and crush ring (I). Discard crush ring. 16. Press out seal (K) from retainer (L).

Bearing cup (F) and plug (E) are press-fit in gear case. Remove bearing cup (F) only if replacement is necessary. Bearing cones and cups are matched and must be replaced as complete assemblies. 17. Inspect bearing cups (F and H) for wear or damage. Replace as necessary. 18. Press out plug (E) and bearing cup (F).

Bearing cones are press-fit on output shaft. Remove bearings only if replacement is necessary. Bearing cones and cups are matched and must be replaced as complete assemblies. 20. Inspect bearing cones (A and D) for wear or damage. Replace if necessary. 21. Press output shaft (B) from bearing cone (A). Remove snap ring ©. 22. Remove bearing cone (D) from output shaft (B) using a knife-edge puller and a press. 23. Remove bevel gear (E), snap ring (F) and key (G). 24. Inspect all parts for wear or damage. Replace as necessary.

How do you assemble the mower gear case on a 50-inch mower?

Always use new seals and O-rings. Damaged or used parts will leak. Lubricate all O-rings with petroleum jelly during assembly. Apply clean gear case oil on all internal parts during assembly.

Install snap ring (F), key (G) and bevel gear (E). Install bevel gear on output shaft, small O.D. first.
Press bearing cone (D) on output shaft (B) with small O.D. facing away from bevel gear (E). Install bearing until it bottoms against bevel gear.
Install snap ring ©.
Press bearing cone (A) on output shaft with small O.D. facing away from bevel gear (E). Install bearing until it bottoms against snap ring.
Install new bearing cup (F), if removed, using a driver set.
Press plug (E) into gear case © with lip facing away from gear case. Install plug until recessed 1.59 mm (0.062 in.) below gear case surface.
Install adapter (B) and vent plug (A).
Press new seal (K) into retainer (L) until top of seal is recessed 2.54 mm (0.100 in.) below retainer surface.
Apply multipurpose grease to lip of seal.

A new crush ring must be installed during assembly. The ring collapses when retainer is tightened to gear case to achieve proper output shaft end play. 10. Install new crush ring (I) and bearing cup (H). 11. Install shim (J) and new O-ring (G).

Tape end of output shaft to prevent seal damage during shaft installation. 12. Apply tape around end of output shaft. 13. Assemble output shaft assembly (M) and retainer (L). Remove tape. 14. Install retainer and output shaft assembly into gear case ©. 15. Install four cap screws (D) and tighten to 30 N·m (22 lb-ft). 16. Install snap ring (F). 17. Install new bearing cups (G and H), if removed, using a driver set. Press into pillow block (I) until seated against snap ring and housing. 18. Install snap ring (B) on input shaft ©. 19. Press bearing cone (D) on input shaft with small O.D. facing away from snap ring (B). Install bearing until it bottoms against snap ring.

Tape end of input shaft to prevent seal damage during seal installation. 20. Apply tape around large end of input shaft. 21. Install input shaft assembly into pillow block (I). 22. Apply multipurpose grease to lip of new seal (A). 23. Press new seal (A) into pillow block (I) until top of seal is recessed 2.54 mm (0.100 in.) below block surface. Remove tape from end of shaft. 24. Install new O-ring (E). 25. Install shims (F) on bevel gear (E). 26. Press bearing cone (D) on bevel gear (E) with small O.D. facing away from bevel gear. Install bearing until it bottoms against shims. 27. Install key (G) into input shaft. 28. Install bevel gear assembly onto input shaft.

DO NOT overtighten lock nut (B). Overtightening can damage bearing cone (D). 29. Install washer © and lock nut (B). Tighten lock nut until there is zero endplay in input shaft. 30. Install input shaft assembly into gear case. 31. Install four cap screws (A) and tighten to 30 N·m (22 lb-ft). 32. AFTER installing gear case on mower deck, fill gear case to proper level with John Deere API GL-5 Gear Oil. 33. Install plugs (A and B).

How do you disassemble and inspect the mower gear case on an early 60-inch mower (Curtis)?

Remove drain plugs (A and B) and drain oil from gear case.
Scribe an alignment mark across caps and gear case. Mark both caps in relation to the case side they are removed from to aid in assembly.
Remove four cap screws and lock plates (A).
Remove cap (B) and input shaft assembly from gear case ©.
Remove shims (D) and input shaft assembly from cap (B).
Pry out seal (E).

Bearing cup is press-fit in cap. Remove bearing cup only if replacement is necessary. Bearing cone (K) is press-fit on input shaft. Bearing cones and cups (one in gear case housing) are matched and must be replaced as complete assemblies. 7. Inspect bearing cup (F) for wear or damage. Replace if necessary.

Remove bearing cups using a press and driver disk, if possible. Using a punch and hammer can damage cap. Use only if necessary. 8. Remove bearing cup (F) using a press and driver set or punch and hammer. 9. Slide bearing cone (G) off of input shaft (H). 10. Remove spring pin (I) using a punch and hammer. 11. Press shaft (H) from bevel gear (J) and bearing cone (K). 12. Remove key (L). 13. Remove four cap screws and lock plates (A). 14. Remove cap (B) and output shaft assembly from gear case ©. 15. Remove shims (D) and output shaft assembly from cap (B). 16. Pry out seal (E).

Bearing cup is press-fit in cap. Remove bearing cup only if replacement is necessary. Bearing cone (K) is press-fit on input shaft. Bearing cones and cups (one in gear case housing) are matched and must be replaced as complete assemblies. 17. Inspect bearing cup (F) for wear or damage. Replace if necessary.

Remove bearing cups using a press and driver disk, if possible. Using a punch and hammer can damage cap. Use only if necessary. 18. Remove bearing cup (F) using a press and driver set or punch and hammer. 19. Slide bearing cone (G) off of output shaft (H). 20. Remove spring pin (I) using a punch and hammer. 21. Press shaft (H) from bevel gear (J) and bearing cone (K). 22. Remove key (L). 23. Remove vent plug (A) and adapter (B).

Bearing cups are press-fit in gear case. Remove bearing cups only if replacement is necessary. Bearing cups and cones are matched and must be replaced as complete assemblies. 24. Inspect bearing cups (D and E) for wear or damage. Replace if necessary.

Remove bearing cups using a slide hammer and inside puller, if possible. Using a punch and hammer can damage gear case. Use only if necessary. 25. Remove bearing cups from gear case © using a slide hammer and inside puller or punch and hammer. 26. Remove shims (F), if equipped.

How do you assemble the mower gear case on an early 60-inch mower (Curtis)?

Always use new seals. Damaged or used seals will leak. Apply clean gear case oil on all internal parts during assembly.

Install shims (F), if equipped, into gear case ©.
Install new bearing cups (E and D), if removed, using a driver set.
Install adapter (B) and vent plug (A).
Install key (L) and bevel gear (J), shoulder end first, onto shaft (H).
Align holes in bevel gear and shaft and install spring pin (I).
Press bearing cone (K) on shaft with small O.D. facing away from bevel gear (J). Install bearing cone until seated.
Slide bearing cone (G) onto other end of output shaft (H).

Do not press seal in until seated or bottomed out. Seal will become damaged and will leak. 8. Press new seal (E) into cap (B) until seal is flush with first recess in bottom of cap. 9. Install new bearing cup (F), if removed, using a driver set. 10. Apply multipurpose grease to lip of seal.

Tape end of output shaft to prevent seal damage during shaft installation. 11. Apply tape around end of output shaft. 12. Assemble output shaft assembly and cap (B). Remove tape.

Flat sides of cap must align with flat sides of gear case. Gear case mounting surface must be flat to install gear case on mower deck. 13. Install shims (D). Align marks made during disassembly and install output shaft assembly into gear case ©. 14. Install four cap screws and lock plates (A) and tighten to 30 N·m (22 lb-ft). 15. Check output shaft endplay. Endplay should be within 0.025—0.076 mm (0.001—0.003 in.). If necessary, remove cap and output shaft assembly and add or remove shims (D) as needed. 16. Again, remove four cap screws and lock plates (A) and cap and output shaft assembly. 17. Clean mating surfaces of cap, shims and gear case using Clean and Cure Primer. Apply a bead of Form-In-Place Gasket, or an equivalant, between inside edge of top shim and lip on cap (B). 18. Align and install cap and output shaft assembly into gear case. Install four cap screws and lock plates (A) and tighten to 30 N·m (22 lb-ft). Bend lock plates up around cap screws. 19. Install key (L) and bevel gear (J), shoulder end first, onto shaft (H). 20. Align holes in bevel gear and shaft and install spring pin (I). 21. Press bearing cone (K) on shaft with small O.D. facing away from bevel gear (J). Install bearing until seated. 22. Slide bearing cone (G) onto other end of input shaft (H).

Do not press seal in until seated or bottomed out. Seal will become damaged and will leak. 23. Press new seal (E) into cap (B) until seal is flush with first recess in bottom of cap. 24. Install new bearing cup (F), if removed, using a driver set. 25. Apply multipurpose grease to lip of seal.

Tape end of input shaft to prevent seal damage during shaft installation. 26. Apply tape around end of input shaft. 27. Assemble input shaft assembly and cap (B). Remove tape.

Flat sides of cap must align with flat sides of gear case. Gear case mounting surface must be flat to install gear case on mower deck. 28. Install shims (D). Align marks made during disassembly and install input shaft assembly into gear case ©. 29. Install four cap screws and lock plates (A) and tighten to 30 N·m (22 lb-ft). 30. Hold output shaft securely and check input shaft backlash. Backlash should be within 0.076—0.130 mm (0.003—0.005 in.). If necessary, remove cap and input shaft assembly and add or remove shims (D) as needed. 31. Again, remove four cap screws and lock plates (A) and cap and input shaft assembly. 32. Clean mating surfaces of cap, shims and gear case using Clean and Cure Primer. Apply a bead of Form-In-Place Gasket, or an equivalant, between inside edge of top shim and lip on cap (B). 33. Align and install cap and input shaft assembly into gear case. Install four cap screws and lock plates (A) and tighten to 30 N·m (22 lb-ft). Bend lock plates up around cap screws. 34. AFTER installing gear case on mower deck, fill gear case to proper level with John Deere API GL-5 Gear Oil. 35. Install plugs (A and B).

How to assemble the mower gear case for a later 60-inch mower (Peerless)?

Always use new seals and O-rings. Damaged or used parts will leak.
Lubricate all O-rings with petroleum jelly during assembly.
Apply clean gear case oil on all internal parts during assembly.
1. Install snap ring (G) in the first groove under the keyway for key (H).
2. Install key (H), bevel gear (F), and shims (E). Install the bevel gear on the shaft with the shoulder facing away from snap ring (G).
3. Press bearing cone (D) on output shaft © with small O.D. facing away from shims (E). Install the bearing cone until it bottoms against shims.
4. Install snap ring (B).
5. Press bearing cone (A) on the output shaft with small O.D. facing away from bevel gear (F). Install bearing Output Shaft Assembly until it bottoms against snap ring.
6. Install new bearing cup (I), if removed, into gear case (J) using a driver set.
7. Press new seal (H) into gear case (J) until the top of the seal is recessed 2.54 mm (0.100 in.) below the gear case surface.
8. Apply multipurpose grease to the lip of the seal.
9. Install vent plug (A).
10. Install new crush ring (E) and bearing cup (D).
11. Install shim © and new O-ring (F).
12. Apply tape around the end of the output shaft.
13. Install output shaft assembly (K) into gear case (J).
14. Install retainer assembly and four cap screws (B). Tighten cap screws to 30 N·m (22 lb-ft).
15. Install new bearing cups (F and G), if removed, using a driver set. Press into pillow block (H) until seated against housing.
16. Install snap ring (B) onto input shaft ©.
17. Press bearing cone (D) on the input shaft with small O.D. facing away from snap ring (B). Install bearing until it bottoms against the snap ring.
18. Apply tape around the large end of the input shaft.
19. Install the input shaft assembly into the pillow block (H).
20. Apply multipurpose grease to the lip of new seal (A).
21. Press new seal (A) into pillow block (H) until the top of the seal is recessed 2.54 mm (0.100 in.) below the pillow block surface. Remove tape from the end of the shaft.
22. Install new O-ring (E).
23. Install shim (F) on bevel gear (E).
24. Press bearing cone (D) on bevel gear (E) with small O.D. facing away from the bevel gear. Install the bearing until it bottoms against the shim.
25. Install key (G) into the input shaft.
26. Install bevel gear assembly onto the input shaft.
27. Install washer © and lock nut (B). Tighten the lock nut until there is zero endplay in the input shaft.
28. Install the input shaft assembly into the gear case.
29. Install four cap screws (A) and tighten to 30 N·m (22 lb-ft).
30. After installing the gear case on the mower deck, fill the gear case to the proper level with John Deere API GL-5 Gear Oil.
31. Install plugs (A and B).

How to disassemble and inspect the mower gear case of the 260 rotary mower?

Remove drain plugs (A and B) and drain oil from gear case.
Remove four cap screws (A).
Remove output shaft assembly and housing from gear case (B).
Remove shims ©.
Punch a hole in seal (D) and pry out of housing (L).
Bend out the exterior locking tab on the toothed washer (E) from the lock nut (F).
Turn lock nut (F) counterclockwise using a hammer and punch. Remove the lock nut.
Bend the interior locking tab on the toothed washer (E) away from the groove in shaft (I). Remove the toothed washer.
Remove the tabbed washer (G) and bearing cone (H).
Remove the output shaft assembly (I) from the housing (L).
Inspect bearing cups (K and J) for wear or damage. Replace if necessary.
Remove bearing cups using a brass drift or punch and hammer.
Remove bearing cone (A) from shaft (B) using a knife-edge puller and a press.
Remove c-ring ©, locking collar (D), bevel gear (E), and key (F).
Inspect all parts for wear or damage. Replace as necessary.
Remove four cap screws (A).
Remove the input shaft assembly (B) from the gear case ©.
Remove four cap screws (D), end cap (E), and shims (F).
Remove vent plug (H) and adapter (I).
Inspect bearing cup (G) for wear or damage. Replace if necessary.
Remove bearing cup (G) using a slide hammer and a three-jaw puller.
Remove the input shaft assembly from cap (A).
Remove shims (B).
Remove seal © using a punch and hammer.
Inspect bearing cup (D) for wear or damage. Replace if necessary.
Remove bearing cup using a brass drift or punch and hammer.
Press shaft (E) from bearing cone (F).
Press shaft (E) from bevel gear (G) and bearing cone (H).
Remove key (I).
Inspect all parts for wear or damage. Replace as necessary.

How to assemble the mower gear case of the 260 rotary mower?

Always use new seals. Damaged or used seals will leak.
Apply clean gear case oil on all internal parts during assembly.
1. Install key (I) into input shaft (E).
2. Press bevel gear (G), tapered end first, onto shaft (E) until started.
3. Press bearing cone (H) on shaft with small O.D. facing away from bevel gear (G). Install both bearing cone and bevel gear until bearing bottoms against the shaft.
4. Press bearing cone (F) onto the other end of input shaft (E) with small O.D. facing away from the bevel gear.
5. Press new seal © into cap (A) until the top of the seal is flush with the first recess inside the cap.
6. Apply multipurpose grease to the lip of the seal.
7. Install new bearing cup (D), if removed, using a driver set.
8. Apply tape around the end of the input shaft.
9. Assemble the input shaft assembly and cap (A). Remove tape.
10. Install shims (B) on cap (A).
11. Install new bearing cup (G), if removed, into end cap (E) using a driver set.
12. Install shims (F) onto end cap (E).
13. Clean mating surfaces of cap, shims, and gear case using Clean and Cure Primer. Apply a bead of Form-In-Place Gasket, or an equivalent, between the inside edge of the top shim and flange on end cap (E).
14. Install the end cap and four cap screws (D) onto the gear case ©. Tighten cap screws to 30 N·m (22 lb-ft).
15. Install the input shaft assembly (B) into the gear case ©.
16. Install four cap screws (A) and tighten to 30 N·m (22 lb-ft).
17. Check input shaft endplay. Endplay should be within 0.025—0.076 mm (0.001—0.003 in.). If necessary, remove four cap screws (D) and end cap (E) and add or remove shims (F) as needed.
18. Remove the input shaft assembly (B).
19. Clean mating surfaces of cap, shims, and gear case using Clean and Cure Primer. Apply a bead of Form-In-Place Gasket, or an equivalent, between the inside edge of the top shim and flange on the cap.
20. Install the input shaft assembly and four cap screws (D). Tighten cap screws to 30 N·m (22 lb-ft).
21. Install adapter (I) and vent plug (H).
22. Install key (F) and bevel gear (E) on shaft (B). Install the bevel gear with the shoulder end toward the threaded end of the shaft.
23. Install the locking collar (D) with the groove facing away from the bevel gear. Install c-ring ©.
24. Press bearing cone (A) on shaft with small O.D. facing away from bevel gear (E). Install the bearing until it bottoms locking collar (D) against c-ring ©.
25. Install new bearing cups (K and J), if removed, into housing (L) using a driver set.
26. Install the output shaft assembly (I) into housing (L).
27. Slide bearing cone (H) on the shaft with small O.D. facing toward housing (L).
28. Install tabbed washer (G) and toothed washer (E). Press the internal tab on toothed washer (E) into the slot on the shaft using a screwdriver.
29. Install lock nut (F). Tighten the lock nut, using a punch and hammer, until there is zero endplay in the output shaft. Bend up one tab from toothed washer (E) that is in alignment with a slot in lock nut (F) to secure the nut in place.
30. Apply tape around the end of the output shaft.
31. Apply multipurpose grease to the lip of the seal.
32. Press new seal (D) into housing (L) until the seal is flush with the top of the housing. Remove tape.
33. Install shims © on housing (L).
34. Install the output shaft assembly and housing into gear case (B).
35. Install four cap screws (A) and tighten to 30 N·m (22 lb-ft).
36. Hold the input shaft securely and check output shaft backlash. Backlash should be within 0.076—0.130 mm (0.003—0.005 in.). If necessary, remove four cap screws (A) and housing and output shaft assembly and add or remove shims © as needed.
37. Again, remove four cap screws (A) and housing and output shaft assembly.
38. Clean mating surfaces of housing, shims, and gear case using Clean and Cure Primer. Apply a bead of Form-In-Place Gasket, or an equivalent, between the inside edge of the top shim and flange on housing (L).
39. Install the housing and output shaft assembly into the gear case. Install four cap screws (A) and tighten to 30 N·m (22 lb-ft).
40. After installing the gear case on the mower deck, fill the gear case to the proper level with John Deere API GL-5 Gear Oil.
41. Install plugs (A and B).

What should you do before you start to identify a failure in the engine, fuel, or air system?

Always begin with Group 05 to identify a failure in the engine, fuel, or air system. The step-by-step procedures will provide you with a quick check of the system. No special tools are required to perform these checks. If a failure is indicated, you will be referred to a more detailed check, adjustment, or test.

What should you always start with?

Always start with the first step and follow the sequence from left to right. Read each step completely before performing the check.

What should you concentrate on while performing the check?

While performing the check, concentrate only on the check you are performing and disregard signals from unrelated components.

How do you perform an engine oil and leak check?

Check the engine oil level, condition, and viscosity.
Inspect for external oil leakage from oil base gasket, drain plug, oil filter (if equipped), seals, and oil fill tube.

How do you perform a fuel leak check?

Inspect for external fuel leakage from the fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel lines, and fittings.

How do you perform a throttle lever check?

Move the throttle lever from the low idle position to the high idle position.

LOOK: The throttle lever must contact stops in the dash at low and high idle positions.
FEEL: The throttle lever must move smoothly from the low to high idle position.

How do you perform an engine start check?

Operator on the seat.
Put the hydrostatic control lever in the N/STOP position.
Put the PTO lever in the OFF position.
Pull the choke knob all the way out.
Depress the brake pedal(s).
Turn the key switch to the START position.
- The starter must crank the engine and the engine must start.

How do you perform a choke lever check?

Run the engine at half throttle.
Quickly pull the choke knob all the way out, then push in.
- LISTEN: The engine must falter, then resume speed.

How do you perform an engine oil pressure check?

Run the engine at full throttle.
LOOK: The oil pressure lamp must go OFF.
Remove the air cleaner cover.
LOOK: The air filter must not be oil-soaked.

How do you perform an engine performance check under no-load?

Start the engine.
Move the throttle lever from slow idle to fast idle.
- LISTEN: The engine must accelerate smoothly, without hesitation.
- LOOK: Exhaust must be clear.
- LISTEN: The governor must hold the engine at a constant rpm and not surge.
- LISTEN: The engine must not make any abnormal sounds or backfire.

How do you perform an engine performance check under load?

Start the engine and run at half throttle.
Engage the PTO lever with the implement attached.
Move the throttle lever to the fast idle position.
Cycle the attached implement, if possible, to load the engine.
- LISTEN: The governor must increase and decrease engine rpm to match the load condition.
- LOOK: Exhaust must be clear.
- LISTEN: The engine must not make any abnormal sounds or backfire.

What should you do if you complete the checkout procedure and do not isolate a malfunction?

If you completed the checkout procedure and did not isolate a malfunction, the problem may be intermittent. Try to duplicate the conditions of the malfunction identified by the operator. Repeat the system checkout.

What is assumed you are familiar with in this group of the PDF?

It is assumed that you are familiar with the machine and its engine, fuel, and air system components.

What is critical in most engine tests?

Engine rpm and temperature are critical in most engine tests. Be sure to follow test specifications carefully.

What should you do upon completing a test or adjustment?

Upon completing a test or adjustment, check to see whether the problem is corrected by performing the checkout procedures in Group 05.

What do you do if the engine does not operate properly?

If the engine does not operate properly, select the appropriate symptom from the list below. (If the engine does not crank, see Section 240).

ENGINE WILL NOT START OR STARTS HARD: GO TO A
ENGINE BACKFIRES: GO TO B
ENGINE MISSES: GO TO C
ENGINE SURGES OR STALLS FREQUENTLY: GO TO D
ENGINE DOES NOT DEVELOP FULL POWER: GO TO E
ENGINE RUNS ERRATICALLY: GO TO F
ENGINE OVERHEATS: GO TO G
ABNORMAL ENGINE NOISE: GO TO H
LOW OIL PRESSURE: GO TO I
ENGINE SMOKES EXCESSIVELY AND USES TOO MUCH OIL: GO TO J
ENGINE SMOKES EXCESSIVELY AND USES TOO MUCH FUEL: GO TO K

What to do if the engine will not start or starts hard?

Test spark plugs: GO TO ‘
Test fuel filter: GO TO Ú
Adjust choke cable: GO TO Å
Adjust throttle cable: GO TO Æ
Adjust idle mixture screw: GO TO Ö
Test fuel transfer pump: GO TO Ü
Check for sheared flywheel key—P218G (316 and 318) and P220G (420): See Engine CTM2.
Adjust timing—B43E (316), B43G (318) and B48G (420): GO TO 1!
Check ignition system: See Section 240.
Test compression pressure: GO TO 1@
Test crankcase vacuum: GO TO 1Ô
Inspect crankcase breather: See Engine CTM2.
Check and adjust valve clearance: See Engine CTM2.

What to do if the engine backfires?

Adjust idle mixture screw: GO TO Ö
Check for sheared flywheel key—P218G (316 and 318) and P220G (420): See Engine CTM2.
Adjust timing—B43E (B43E), B43G (318) and B48G (420): GO TO 1!
Check ignition system: See Section 240.
Check for sticking valves: See Engine CTM2.
Check and adjust valve clearance: See Engine CTM2.

What to do if the engine misses?

Test spark plugs: GO TO ‘
Test fuel filter: GO TO Ú
Adjust choke cable: GO TO Å
Adjust carburetor: GO TO Ö
Adjust timing—B43E (316), B43G (318) and B48G (420): GO TO 1!
Check ignition system: See Section 240.
Check and adjust valve clearance: See Engine CTM2.

What to do if the engine surges or stalls frequently?

Adjust choke cable: GO TO Å
Adjust dashpot—B43E (316), B43G (318) and B48G (420): GO TO Õ
Adjust governor linkage: GO TO Ò
Adjust carburetor: GO TO Ö
Test fuel filter: GO TO Ú
Test fuel transfer pump: GO TO Ü
Adjust timing—B43E (316), B43G (318) and B48G (420): GO TO 1!
Check ignition system: See Section 240.
Test crankcase vacuum: GO TO 1Ô
Inspect crankcase breather: See Engine CTM2.
Test compression pressure: GO TO 1@
Check and adjust valve clearance: See Engine CTM2.

What to do if the engine does not develop full power?

Adjust throttle cable: GO TO Æ
Adjust choke cable: GO TO Å
Adjust governor linkage: GO TO Ò
Adjust carburetor: GO TO Ö
Test spark plugs: GO TO ‘
Check muffler for restriction or plugged condition.
Test fuel filter: GO TO Ú
Test fuel transfer pump: GO TO Ü
Adjust timing—B43E (316), B43G (318) and B48G (420): GO TO 1!
Check ignition system: See Section 240.
Test compression pressure: GO TO 1@
Test crankcase vacuum: GO TO 1Ô
Inspect crankcase breather: See Engine CTM2.
Check and adjust valve clearance: See Engine CTM2.

What to do if the engine runs erratically?

Check for loose electrical connections: See Section 240.
Test spark plugs: GO TO ‘
Adjust carburetor: GO TO Ö
Adjust dashpot—B43E (316), B43G (318) and B48G (420): GO TO Õ
Adjust governor linkage: GO TO Ò
Adjust timing—B43E (316), B43G (318) and B48G (420): GO TO 1!
Test fuel filter: GO TO Ú
Test fuel transfer pump: GO TO Ü
Check ignition system: See Section 240.
Test crankcase vacuum: GO TO 1Ô
Inspect crankcase breather: See engine CTM2.
Check and adjust valve clearance: See Engine CTM2.
Check carburetor for plugged passages: See Engine CTM2.

What to do if the engine overheats?

Check muffler for restriction or plugged condition.
Adjust carburetor: GO TO Ö
Adjust governor linkage: TO TO Ò
Check engine oil pressure: GO TO 1#
Check oil pump suction screen for plugged condition: See Engine CTM2.
Check oil pump for wear or damage: See Engine CTM2.
Check oil passages: See Engine CTM2.
Check internal bearing clearance: See Engine CTM2.
Check for carbon build-up in combustion chamber: See Engine CTM2.

What to do if there is abnormal engine noise?

Check for loose flywheel: See Engine CTM2.
Check and adjust valve clearance: See Engine CTM2.
Check for carbon build-up in combustion chamber: See Engine CTM2.
Inspect engine for worn cylinder walls, loose or worn connecting rods, excessive main bearing endplay, and excessive crankshaft or camshaft endplay: See Engine CTM2.

What to do if there is low oil pressure?

Test oil indicator light and sender: See Section 240.
Check engine oil pressure: GO TO 1#
Check oil pump suction screen for plugged condition: See Engine CTM2.
Check oil pump for wear of damage: See Engine CTM2.
Check oil passages: See Engine CTM2.
Check for excessive main bearing clearance and connecting rod bearing clearance: See Engine CTM2.

What to do if the engine smokes excessively and uses too much oil?

Test crankcase vacuum: GO TO 1Ô
Inspect crankcase breather: See Engine CTM2.
Test compression pressure: GO TO 1@
Check valve stem seals (if equipped): See Engine CTM2.
Check for correct engine oil dipstick being used.
Check for proper installation of oil passage plug: See Engine CTM2.

What to do if the engine smokes excessively and uses too much fuel?

Adjust choke cable: GO TO Å
Adjust carburetor: GO TO Ö
Check carburetor float adjustment: See Engine CTM2.

How to perform the ignition spark test?

Connect the spark plug wire to the JDM-74-5 Ignition Test Plug or D-05351ST Spark Tester.
Crank the engine and watch for a spark.
- LOOK: The Ignition Test Plug or Tester must spark.
- SPARK “BLUE” HOT: OK, Continue with the test.
- NO SPARK OR “YELLOW” WEAK SPARK: GO TO SECTION 240.
- Remove the spark plug.
- Inspect the spark plug for wet or fouled condition or damage.
- Check the spark plug gap. The spark plug gap should be 0.64 mm (0.025 in.).
- Repeat spark test with original plug.
- NO SPARK: Replace the plug.

How to perform the throttle cable adjustment?

Move the throttle lever to the fast idle position.
Loosen the clamp.
Hold the throttle control lever against the fast idle stop (A). Tighten the clamp.

How to perform the choke cable adjustment on early models?

Remove the air filter.
Pull the choke knob out and then push the knob in.
- LOOK: The choke plate must be completely closed, then completely open.
- If necessary, loosen screw (A) and push the choke knob all the way in.
- Pull on the choke lever to completely open the choke plate. Tighten screw (A).
- Check for completely open and completely closed positions.

How to perform the choke cable adjustment on later models?

Pull the choke knob out and then push the knob in.
- LOOK: Choke plate must be completely closed, then completely open.
- If necessary, loosen screw (B) and push the choke knob all the way in.
- Push the choke cable to completely open the choke plate. Tighten screw (B).
- Check for completely open and completely closed positions.

How to perform the idle mixture and speed adjustment?

Turn the idle mixture screw clockwise until lightly seated, then counterclockwise 1-1/4 turns.
Start and run the engine to bring it to NORMAL OPERATING TEMPERATURE. Move the throttle lever to the slow idle position.
Turn the low-speed stop screw (A) counterclockwise until the throttle stop screw controls the engine speed.
Put the Tachometer (A) on the air cleaner. Set the Tachometer to read 1250 rpm.
Turn the throttle stop screw until the engine speed is 1250 rpm.
Turn the idle mixture screw in until the engine speed drops, then out until the engine speed increases and begins to drop again.
Adjust the idle mixture screw for the highest engine speed between drops, then turn the screw out an additional 1/8 turn.
Watch the Tachometer and turn the throttle stop screw until the engine speed is 1250 rpm.
Turn the low-speed stop screw (A) until the engine speed is 1350 rpm.
Move the throttle lever to the fast idle position. Bend the high-speed stop (B) in or out until the engine speed is 3450 rpm. Check the low idle rpm again and adjust if necessary.

How to perform the governor linkage adjustment?

Disconnect the throttle rod (A) from the governor arm (B).
Push the throttle rod and governor arm toward the carburetor until they stop. Be sure the dashpot spring (if equipped) is completely compressed.
Install the throttle rod into the closest governor arm hole. If between holes, install in the next hole away from the carburetor.
Check governor spring sensitivity.
On side pull governors, the governor spring should be in the third hole from the governor arm pivot.
On front pull governors, the governor spring should be in the second hole from the governor arm pivot.
If necessary, move the governor spring one hole away from the governor arm pivot to decrease sensitivity.
AFTER ADJUSTMENT: GO TO Ö and adjust the carburetor.

How to perform the dashpot adjustment (B43E, B43G, and B48G)?

Inspect the dashpot for wear or damage. The dashpot plunger must move in and out freely.
Push and hold the governor arm away from the carburetor until the throttle stop (A) hits the throttle stop screw (B).
Measure the dashpot-to-governor arm bracket clearance. The dashpot clearance should be 1.3 ± 0.2 mm (0.050 ± 0.010 in.).
If the adjustment is necessary, loosen lock nut (A).
Turn the dashpot until the clearance is obtained. Hold the dashpot while tightening the lock nut.
AFTER ADJUSTMENT: GO TO Ò and adjust the governor linkage.

How to perform the fuel filter test?

Disconnect the fuel filter outlet hose. Hold the fuel filter in a graduated container.
Crank the engine for 30 seconds and record the amount of fuel.
- Minimum fuel flow is 120 mL/30 seconds (4 oz/30 seconds).

How to perform the fuel transfer pump test?

Start and run the engine at slow idle for five minutes to fill the carburetor with fuel.
Stop the engine.
Disconnect and plug the fuel pump inlet hose (A). Connect vacuum gauge (B) to the fuel pump inlet.
Start and run the engine at slow idle for 15 seconds, then record the vacuum reading.
Run the engine at fast idle for 15 seconds, then record the vacuum reading.
- Minimum vacuum at slow and fast idle is 9 kPa (2.6 in. mercury).
Stop the engine.
Remove the vacuum gauge.
Connect the fuel pump inlet hose.
Disconnect and plug the fuel pump outlet hose (A).
Connect the JDG356 Pressure Test Kit (B) to the fuel pump outlet.
Start and run the engine at slow idle for 15 seconds, then record the pressure reading.
Run the engine at fast idle for 15 seconds, then record the pressure reading.
- Minimum pressure at slow and fast idle is 12 kPa (1.7 psi).

How to perform the crankcase vacuum test?

Remove the dipstick.
Put plug (A) in the dipstick hole.
Start the engine and run at fast idle.
Make test connections from the JT05697 U-Tube Manometer Kit.
Record the crankcase vacuum reading.
- Minimum Crankcase Vacuum:
  - B43E (Early 316), B43G (Early 318) and B48G (Early 420) . . . . . . . . . . . 25 cm (10 in.) water
  - P218G (Later 316 and 318) and P220G (Later 420) . . . . . . . . . 33 cm (13 in.) water
Remove the Manometer line from the plug before shutting off the engine.

What conditions must be met for the starter motor to energize?

For the starter motor to energize, the following conditions must be met:

Front and rear PTO switches in OFF position.
Hydrostatic Control Lever in N/STOP position.
Brake pedal depressed.
Key Switch in “START” position.

What is the procedure to diagnose electrical system issues?

Always perform the system checkout procedures in Group 05 BEFORE doing any tests in this group. The step-by-step procedures in this group provide you with the detailed diagnostic information you will need to isolate a malfunction. Always start with the first step and follow the sequence from left to right. Read each step completely before performing the test.

What should be verified before testing the starting circuit?

Test battery and verify grounds before testing starting circuit.

What is the procedure to verify system grounds?

Key switch OFF. Verify the system grounds using a continuity tester or ohmmeter. Check for good continuity between battery negative (—) terminal and the following:

Battery ground (A) connection to engine.
Harness ground (B) connection to right pedestal panel; (S.N. —475000) only. NOT OK: Clean and tighten ground connections as necessary. OK: GO TO B

What is the procedure for battery tests?

Check electrolyte level in each cell of battery. If low, add the proper amount of electrolyte or DISTILLED water. Check specific gravity of each cell with a hydrometer.

What do I do if all cells are less than 1.175 specific gravity?

GO TO —@

What do I do if all cells are more than 1.225 specific gravity with less than 50 (0.050) gravity point variation?

GO TO —#

What do I do if all cells are less than 1.225 with less than 50 (0.050) gravity point variation?

GO TO —!

What do I do if cells vary more than 50 points?

Replace Battery.

What is the procedure to test battery voltage?

NOTE: Battery need not be disconnected from machine. IMPORTANT: Before connecting JT05685 Tester to battery, make sure load knob (A) is turned fully counterclockwise. Check battery voltage with voltmeter or JT05685 Battery Tester. 12. 4 VOLTS OR MORE: GO TO —% LESS THAN 12.4 VOLTS: GO TO —@

What is the procedure to charge the battery?

Connect a variable-rate type charger to battery. Start charger at a slow rate. Increase charge rate one setting at a time. Check ammeter (on charger) after 1 minute at each setting. Try to maintain a 10 amp charge rate. Use boost setting as necessary. The maximum charging time at boost setting is 10 minutes. Allow an additional 5 minutes for each 10˚F below 70˚F.

What do I do if the battery did not require water at Step B and is accepting a 10-AMP charge?

GO TO —$

What do I do if the battery required water at Step B or all cells were below 1.175, but battery is accepting a 10-AMP charge?

GO TO —#

What do I do if the battery does not accept a 10-AMP charge after 10 minutes at boost setting?

Replace Battery.

What is the procedure to increase charge rate?

Set charger at 15—25 amps. IMPORTANT: Decrease charge rate if battery gases or bubbles excessively or becomes too warm to hold. Check specific gravity after 30 minutes.

What do I do if the variation between cells is more than 50 specific gravity points (0.050)?

Replace Battery.

What do I do if the variation between cells is less than 50 specific gravity points (0.050)?

GO TO —$

What is the procedure to continue charging the battery?

IMPORTANT: Decrease charge rate if battery gases or bubbles too much or if battery gets too warm to hold. Continue charging battery until specific gravity is 1.230—1.265 points. BATTERY WAS DISCHARGED AT A SLOW RATE OR DISCHARGE RATE IS UNKNOWN: Charge battery at 10—15 amps for 6—12 hours. (Maintenance free battery may require 12—24 hours.) THEN GO TO —% BATTERY WAS DISCHARGED AT A FAST RATE: Charge battery at 20—25 amps. Battery may require 2—4 hours charging time. (Maintenance free battery may need 4—8 hours.) THEN GO TO —%

What is the procedure to load test the battery?

Connect JT05685 Tester to battery. Follow instructions on back of meter for testing battery. REPLACE BATTERY AS NEEDED.

What should you check if fuses blow when any of the lamp circuits are energized?

Check For Shorts In The Power Circuit: GO TO Ò, Group 25.

What should you do if no lamps come on?

GO TO 1a

What should you do if the oil pressure lamp does not come on?

GO TO 1i

What should you do if the oil pressure lamp is on all the time?

GO TO 1l

What should you do if the battery discharge lamp does not come on?

GO TO 1m

What should you do if the battery discharge lamp is on all the time?

GO TO 1p

What is the power circuit test procedure at 20-Amp Fuse?

Check 20-amp fuse. Turn key switch to RUN position. For machines: 316 (S.N. —475000) 318 (S.N. —475000) 420 (S.N. —595880), check for voltage at both ends of 20-amp, in-line fuse (A). For machines: 316 (S.N. 475001— ) 318 (S.N. 475001— ) 420 (S.N. 595881— ), check for voltage at both contacts of 20-amp fuse ©. VOLTAGE ONE SIDE: Check fuse contacts. VOLTAGE BOTH SIDES: GO TO 1b NO VOLTAGE: GO TO 1e

What is the 20-Amp Power Circuit Test procedure at TDC Module?

Remove battery base to access TDC 8-pin connector. Set battery on air cleaner cover, then reroute battery negative (—) cable so it can be connected to battery. Turn key switch to RUN position. Check for voltage at terminal with pink and purple wires (A) at TDC 8-pin connector. VOLTAGE: GO TO 1c NO VOLTAGE: Pink wire between 20-amp fuse and TDC 8-pin connector is open. Repair or replace as necessary, then GO TO ;, Group 05.

What is the 20-Amp Power Circuit Test procedure at PTO Switch?

Turn key switch to RUN position. Check for voltage at switch terminal with yellow and purple wires (A). VOLTAGE: GO TO 1d NO VOLTAGE: Purple wire running between TDC 8-pin connector and PTO switch is open. Repair or replace wire as necessary, then GO TO ;, Group 05.

What is the 20-Amp Power Circuit Test procedure at Light Switch?

For machines, 316 (S.N. —362983) 318 (S.N. —364137) 420 (S.N. —360009) remove left pedestal side panel. Turn key switch to RUN position. Check for voltage at terminal (A) at light switch. VOLTAGE: GO TO 1k NO VOLTAGE: Yellow wire between PTO switch and light switch is open. Repair or replace as necessary, then GO TO ;, Group 05.

What is the power circuit test procedure at the Key Switch— Fuse Side?

Turn key switch to RUN position. Check for voltage at key switch terminal “A”, where red and pink wires (A) connect to key switch. VOLTAGE: For 20-amp power circuit, pink wire between fuse and key switch is open. For 2-amp or 3-amp power circuit, red wire between fuse and key switch is open. Repair or replace wire as necessary, then GO TO ; and Å, Group 05. NO VOLTAGE: GO TO 1f

What is the power circuit test procedure at the Key Switch— Battery Side?

Key switch OFF. Check for voltage at key switch terminal “B” where red wire (A) from circuit breaker terminates. VOLTAGE: Replace key switch. NO VOLTAGE: GO TO 1g

What is the main power circuit test procedure at the Circuit Breaker?

Check 20-amp fuse. If fuse is OK, remove battery base to access circuit breaker. Set battery on air cleaner cover, then reroute negative (—) cable to connect battery. Check for voltage at both terminals (A) of circuit breaker. VOLTAGE AT ONLY ONE TERMINAL: Replace breaker. VOLTAGE AT BOTH TERMINALS: Red wire between key switch and circuit breaker is open. Repair or replace as necessary, then GO TO ;, Group 05. NO VOLTAGE AT EITHER TERMINAL: For early machines, GO TO 1h. For later machines, replace red wire to battery.

What is the main power circuit test procedure at the Starter Solenoid—For Early Models: 316 (SN —362983) 318 (SN —364137) 420 (SN —360009)?

Check for voltage at battery cable terminal (B) at starter solenoid. VOLTAGE AT SOLENOID: Replace wire to breaker. NO VOLTAGE: Replace battery cable. Make repairs as necessary, then GO TO ;, Group 05.

What is the Engine Oil Pressure Lamp Test?

Check 20-amp fuse. If lamp stays on at all times, GO TO 1l Open hood. Disconnect 3-pin connector at left front side of engine. Turn key switch to RUN position. Connect jumper wire from tan wire of connector (A) to ground. LOOK: Lamp should come ON. LAMP ON: Wire between 3-pin connector and oil pressure switch is open or switch is faulty. Repair or replace as necessary, then GO TO ;, Group 05. LAMP NOT ON: GO TO 1j

What is the Engine Oil Pressure Lamp Ground Circuit Test?

Key switch OFF. Disconnect 3-pin engine connector. Remove and check bulb. Check for continuity between tan wire (A) of bulb socket and tan wire (B) of engine harness connector. CONTINUITY: Connect engine harness, then GO TO 1k NO CONTINUITY: Repair or replace tan wire from engine harness to bulb socket then GO TO ;, Group 05.

What is the Engine Oil Pressure Lamp Power Circuit Test?

Turn key switch to RUN position. Remove oil pressure lamp socket from panel. Remove bulb. Check for voltage at terminal with double yellow wires (A). NO VOLTAGE: GO TO 1a

What is the Engine Oil Pressure Lamp Short Circuit Test?

Turn key switch OFF. Disconnect engine harness connector. Check for continuity between tan wire at connector (A) and engine ground. CONTINUITY: Tan wire is shorted to ground. Repair or replace wire. NO CONTINUITY: Check engine oil pressure. See Section 220.

What is the Battery Discharge Lamp Test?

Check 20-amp fuse. If discharge lamp stays on at all times, GO TO 1p Connect a jumper wire from brown wire (B) of TDC connector to ground. Turn key switch to RUN position. LOOK: Indicator lamp ON. LAMP ON: GO TO 1q LAMP NOT ON: Jump from brown wire (A) to ground. If lamp comes on, repair connector. Lamp still not on, GO TO 1n

What is the Battery Discharge Lamp Power Circuit Test?

Remove battery discharge lamp socket from dash panel. Check bulb. Turn key switch to RUN position. Check for voltage at terminal with yellow wire (A). NO VOLTAGE: GO TO 1k VOLTAGE: GO TO 1o

What is the Battery Discharge Lamp Ground Circuit Test?

Key switch OFF. Check for continuity of brown wire (A) between TDC 8-pin connector and bulb socket © of the battery discharge lamp socket. NO CONTINUITY: Repair or replace brown wire between lamp socket and TDC 8-pin connector. CONTINUITY: Check for continuity between (A and B) at TDC 8-pin connector. CONTINUITY: GO TO 1q NO CONTINUITY: Repair connector as necessary.

What is the Battery Discharge Lamp Short Circuit Test?

Key switch OFF. Disconnect discharge lamp socket from dash panel. Remove bulb from socket. Disconnect TDC module 8-pin connector. Check for continuity of brown wire between bulb socket contact (A) and ground. CONTINUITY: Brown wire is shorted to ground. Repair or replace. NO CONTINUITY: GO TO 1q

What is the TDC Module Test for Discharge Lamp?

NOTE: For this test, battery voltage must be 12.3 or less. Check battery voltage using JT05685 Battery Tester or a volt meter. If more than 12.3-volts, use the following procedure to discharge the battery. Disconnect and ground both spark plug leads. Crank engine for 10—15 seconds. Check battery voltage to be sure it is less than 12.3-volts. Turn key switch to RUN position. LOOK: Discharge lamp ON, indicating low battery voltage. Connect both spark plug wires to spark plugs. Operate tractor at full throttle until battery voltage is at least 13.5 volts. LOOK: Discharge lamp OFF. If battery does not reach 13.5 volts after several minutes operating time, test charging circuit. GO TO Å, Group 25. LAMP OFF: Circuit OK LAMP ON: Replace TDC module, then GO TO ;, Group 05.

What should you do if the starter operates, but doesn’t crank engine?

REPAIR STARTER (See CTM2.)

What should you do if the solenoid doesn’t click, starter doesn’t operate on machines 316 (S.N. —362983) 318 (S.N. —364137) 420 (S.N. —360009)?

GO TO 2a

What should you do if the solenoid doesn’t click, starter doesn’t operate on machines 316 (S.N. 362984— ) 318 (S.N. 364138— ) 420 (S.N. 360010— )?

GO TO 2c

What should you do if the solenoid clicks, starter doesn’t operate on machines 316 (S.N. —362983) 318 (S.N. —364137) 420 (S.N. —360009)?

GO TO 2b

What should you do if the solenoid clicks, starter doesn’t operate on machines 316 (S.N. 362984— ) 318 (S.N. 364138— ) 420 (S.N. 360010— )?

GO TO 2d

What should you do if the starter cranks engine slowly or erratically?

GO TO Æ, Group 25.

What is the procedure for the Starter Test— For Machines: 316 (SN —362983) 318 (SN —364137) 420 (SN —360009)?

Remove battery base to access solenoid. Set battery on air cleaner base, then reroute negative (—) battery cable to connect. PTO switch OFF. Key switch OFF. Hydrostatic lever in N/STOP position. Park brake engaged. Disconnect spark plug wires from spark plugs and ground to engine block. Disconnect small purple wire (A) from solenoid. Connect one end of a jumper wire to the exposed terminal, then briefly touch other end of jumper to battery cable terminal (B). LISTEN: Starter must operate. STARTER OPERATES: GO TO 2e STARTER DOESN’T OPERATE: GO TO 2b

What is the procedure for the Starter Solenoid Test—For Machines: 316 (SN —362983) 318 (SN —364137) 420 (SN —360009)?

PTO switch OFF. Key switch OFF. Hydrostatic lever in N/STOP position. Park brake engaged. Spark plug wires disconnected and grounded. Briefly jump between the two large terminals (A), located on the starter solenoid. LISTEN: Starter must operate. STARTER OPERATES: Replace solenoid, then GO TO ‘ group 05. STARTER DOESN’T OPERATE: Check battery and starter wiring connections, then GO TO Æ, Group 25.

What is the procedure for the Starter Test— For Machines: 316 (SN 362984— ) 318 (SN 364138— ) 420 (SN 360010— )?

PTO switch OFF. Key switch OFF. Hydrostatic lever in N/STOP position. Park brake engaged. Disconnect spark plug wires from spark plugs and ground to engine block. Connect one end of a jumper wire to terminal (A) on the starter solenoid, then briefly touch other end of jumper to battery cable terminal (B). LISTEN: Starter must operate. STARTER OPERATES: GO TO 2e STARTER DOESN’T OPERATE: GO TO 2d

What is the procedure for the Starter Solenoid Test—For Machines: 316 (SN 362984— ) 318 (SN 364138— ) 420 (SN 360010— )?

PTO switch OFF. Key switch OFF. Hydrostatic lever in N/STOP position. Park brake engaged. Spark plug wires disconnected and grounded. Briefly jump between starter terminal (A) and battery cable terminal (B), located on the starter solenoid. LISTEN: Starter must operate. STARTER OPERATES: Replace solenoid, then GO TO ‘, Group 05. STARTER DOESN’T OPERATE: Check battery and starter wiring connections, then GO TO Æ, Group 25.

What is the procedure for the Starter Circuit Test at Key Switch?

PTO switch OFF. Hydrostatic lever in N/STOP position. Engage park brake. Turn key switch to RUN position. Check for voltage at terminal (A) on back of key switch (purple and purple/black wires). VOLTAGE: Replace key switch, then GO TO ‘, Group 05. NO VOLTAGE: Early machines, GO TO 2g Later machines, GO TO 2f

What is the procedure for the Starter Circuit Test at Brake Switch—For Machines: 316 (SN 596121— ) 318 (SN 600305— ) 420 (SN 595881— )?

PTO switch OFF. Hydrostatic lever in N/STOP position. Park brake engaged. Turn key switch to RUN position. Check for voltage at purple wire terminal (A). If there is voltage at (A), purple wire between key switch and brake switch is open. If no voltage at (A), check for voltage at purple/white wire terminal (B). VOLTAGE: Replace switch, then GO TO ‘, Group 05. NO VOLTAGE: GO TO 2g

What is the procedure for the Starter Circuit Test at Transmission Neutral Start Switch?

PTO switch OFF. Hydrostatic lever in N/STOP position. Turn key switch to RUN position. Check for voltage at terminal (A). For machines: 316 (S.N. —596120) 318 (S.N. —600304) 420 (S.N. —595880), voltage at (A) indicates the purple wire between key switch and trans. neutral switch is open. For machines: 316 (S.N. 596121— ) 318 (S.N. 600305— ) 420 (S.N. 595881— ), voltage at (A) indicates purple/white wire between brake switch and trans. neutral switch is open. If no voltage at (A), check for voltage at terminal (B). VOLTAGE: GO TO 2h NO VOLTAGE: GO TO 2i

What is the procedure for the Starter Circuit Test at Transmission Neutral Start Switch—Continued?

PTO switch OFF. Move hydrostatic lever to FORWARD position. Turn key switch to RUN position. Push switch arm (B) fully in and check for voltage at terminal with purple/white wire (A). NO VOLTAGE: Replace switch, then GO TO ‘, Group 05. VOLTAGE: With hydrostatic lever at N/STOP position, loosen adjusting nut © and slide switch toward hydrostatic lever until switch contacts just close, then tighten nut. DO NOT adjust switch to the point where arm (B) is tight against switch body. This could cause damage to the switch during machine operation. AFTER REPLACING OR ADJUSTING SWITCH, GO TO ‘, Group 05.

What is the procedure for the Starter Circuit Test at Jumper Connector—Single PTO?

PTO switch OFF. Hydrostatic lever in N/STOP position. Turn key switch to RUN position. Check for voltage at purple jumper wire of connector (A). VOLTAGE ONE TERMINAL: Repair jumper connector. VOLTAGE BOTH TERMINALS: Purple wire between connector and transmission switch is open. Repair or replace wire if necessary, then GO TO ‘, Group 05. NO VOLTAGE EITHER TERMINAL: GO TO 2j

What should you do if the starter cranks engine satisfactorily, but the engine doesn’t start?

GO TO 3a

What should you do if the engine stops with the operator on the seat when the PTO switch is turned on, or hydrostatic lever is moved to the forward or reverse position, or the brake pedal is released?

GO TO 4e

What should you do if the engine starts, but misfires on machines (S.N. —420000)?

GO TO 3j

What should you do if the engine starts, but misfires on machines (S.N. 420001— )?

GO TO 3k

What is the Ignition Circuit Test—All Machines procedure?

PTO switch OFF. Hydrostatic lever in N/STOP position. Engage park brake. Remove right-hand engine side panel. Disconnect engine 3-pin connector. Turn key switch to RUN position. Check for voltage at pink wire terminal of connector (A). VOLTAGE: For Machines (S.N. —420000); GO TO 3b For Machines (S.N. 420001— ); GO TO 3f NO VOLTAGE: GO TO 3l

What is the Ignition Circuit Test—For Machines (S.N. —420000) procedure?

Disconnect spark plug wires and remove spark plugs. Connect a spark tester to each of the spark plug wires. Connect a jumper wire from positive (+) battery terminal to positive (+) coil terminal (A). Crank engine and check for spark. SPARK: Wire between ignition coil positive (+) terminal and 3-pin engine connector is open or 3-pin engine connector is faulty. NO SPARK: GO TO 3c

What is the Ignition Points: Inspection and Adjustment— For Machines (S.N. —420000) procedure?

Disconnect negative (—) battery cable. Remove ignition points cover. Inspect points for burning, pitting or other damage. If points are damaged, replace them as instructed in CTM2. Turn engine by rotating U-joint until ignition points are at widest gap. Check point gap using a feeler gauge. Turn adjusting screw (A) until gap is set to specifications. AFTER REPAIR OR ADJUSTMENT: GO TO Æ, Group 05. IF STILL NO SPARK: GO TO 3d

How do I find the Ignition Point Gap Specifications?

B43E and B43G . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.41 mm (0.016 in.) B48G Spec A and B . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.51 mm (0.020 in.) Spec C . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 0.41 mm (0.016 in.)

What is the Ignition Coil Test: Primary Windings— For Machines (S.N. —420000) procedure?

Key switch OFF. Disconnect all wires from ignition coil. Using a ohmmeter, measure resistance of primary windings across terminals (A). Resistance should be 3.9—4.7 ohms when temperature of coil is approximately 20˚C (68˚F). RESISTANCE OK: GO TO 3e RESISTANCE NOT OK: Replace coil.

What is the Ignition Coil Test: Secondary Windings— For Machines (S.N. —420000) procedure?

Key switch OFF. Disconnect all wires from ignition coil. Using a ohmmeter, measure resistance of secondary windings at spark plug wire terminals (A). Resistance should be 12.6—15.4 K-ohms when temperature of coil is approximately 20˚C (68˚F). RESISTANCE NOT OK: Replace coil, then GO TO Æ, Group 05.

What is the Ignition Circuit Test—For Machines (S.N. 420001— ) procedure?

Disconnect spark plug wires and remove spark plugs. Connect a spark tester to each of the spark plug wires. Connect a jumper wire from positive (+) battery terminal to positive (+) coil terminal (A). Crank engine and check for spark. SPARK: White wire to 3-pin engine connector is open or 3-pin engine connector is faulty. Repair or replace as necessary, then GO TO Æ, Group 05. NO SPARK: GO TO 3g

What is the Ignition Coil Test: Pimary Windings— For Machines (S.N. 420001— ) procedure?

Key switch OFF. Disconnect all wires from ignition coil. Using a ohmmeter, measure resistance of primary windings across terminals (A). Resistance should be 3.7—4.6 ohms when temperature of coil is approximately 20˚C (68˚F). RESISTANCE OK: GO TO 3h RESISTANCE NOT OK: Replace coil, then GO TO Æ, Group 05.

What is the Ignition Coil Test: Secondary Windings— For Machines (S.N. 420001— ) procedure?

Key switch OFF. Disconnect all wires from ignition coil. Using a ohmmeter, measure resistance of secondary windings across spark plug wire terminals (A). Resistance should be 34.02—41.6 K-ohms when temperature of coil is approximately 20˚C (68˚F). RESISTANCE OK: GO TO 3i RESISTANCE NOT OK: Replace coil.

What is the Ignition Control Module Test— For Machines (S.N. 420001— ) procedure?

Connect coil wires. Ground spark plug wires. Measure ignition module voltage. Connect voltmeter red lead to negative (—) coil terminal (A) and black lead to engine ground. Turn key switch to RUN position. Turn flywheel slowly by hand. Voltage should fluctuate back and forth between battery voltage and 1—1.5 volts. VOLTAGE DOES NOT SWITCH: Replace ignition control module. IMPORTANT: Always replace ignition module and trigger ring as a set. Make sure an insulator is installed between the ignition module and gear cover. Also, replace the condenser whenever the ignition module is replaced.

What is the Ignition Timing Check—For Machines (S.N. —420000) procedure?

Disconnect and ground spark plug wires. Remove spark plugs. Remove blower housing to access gearcase cover timing marks (A) and flywheel timing mark (B). Connect one lead of an ohmmeter or continuity tester to the primary windings negative (—) terminal of the ignition coil. Connect the other tester lead to engine ground or negative (—) terminal of battery. Slowly turn flywheel clockwise until meter or tester shows no continuity. Turn flywheel 360 degrees until meter or tester again shows no continuity. At this point the ignition points just open, which is when ignition occurs. Check which of the gear case timing marks (A) is directly across from flywheel timing mark (B). See chart for timing specification of particular engine used. If timing is early (advanced), the igniton point gap is too wide. If the timing is late (retarded), the point gap is too narrow. Adjust ignition points as necessary, GO TO 3c.

How do I check the power train before starting?

Check transmission oil level and oil condition. Inspect for external transmission oil leakage from transmission filter, drain plug, lines, fittings, charge pump gasket, charge pump shaft seal and differential gasket.
Start and run engine at fast idle. Move hydrostatic lever to slow forward position. Look to see that the hydrostatic lever must move freely and not move after released.
Move hydrostatic lever to N/STOP position. Start and run engine at half throttle. Look to see that the machine must not creep in neutral.
Move hydrostatic lever to full forward or reverse position. Depress brake pedal(s). Look to see that the hydrostatic lever must move to “STOP” position from forward or reverse.
Start and run engine at fast idle. Operate machine under no load and then under load conditions. Move hydrostatic lever from slow forward, to full forward, to full reverse. Look to see that the machine must move and increase speed, slow down, change direction and increase speed as lever is moved from full forward to full reverse. Feel to ensure the speed increase must be smooth and the transmission suction line must not be uncomfortable to touch.
Start engine and run at half throttle. Move hydrostatic lever to full forward position. Depress right brake pedal. Look to see that the hydrostatic lever must move to slow forward position and the right wheel must stop; left wheel must continue to turn. Move hydrostatic lever to full forward position. Depress left brake pedal. Look to see that the hydrostatic lever must move to slow forward position and the left wheel must stop; right wheel must continue to turn.
Start and run engine at half throttle. Move two-speed axle lever to slow speed position and move hydrostatic lever to full forward position. Look and observe ground speed. Move two-speed axle lever to fast speed position and move hydrostatic lever to full forward position. Look to see that ground speed must be approximately twice as fast.
Start and run engine at fast idle. Move hydrostatic lever to slow forward position. Turn steering wheel left or right. Depress differential lock and turn left or right. Look to see that with differential lock depressed, machine must try to go straight forward when steering wheel is turned or rear tire must show scuffing on the ground.

What do I do if the operator’s complaint is not identified?

If the checkout procedure is completed and a malfunction is not isolated, the problem may be intermittent. Try to duplicate the conditions of the malfunction identified by the operator. If a malfunction is still not identified after the system checkout procedure, factory assistance is available through the Dealer Technical Assistance Center (DTAC).

How do I check for transmission oil leakage?

Check the transmission oil level and oil condition. Inspect for external transmission oil leakage from the transmission filter, drain plug, lines, fittings, charge pump gasket, charge pump shaft seal and differential gasket.

How do I perform a hydrostatic lever friction check?

Start the engine and run it at fast idle. Move the hydrostatic lever to a slow forward position. The hydrostatic lever must move freely and not move after being released. If the lever does not move freely, go to Group 15 for further instructions.

How do I perform a transmission neutral check?

Move the hydrostatic lever to the N/STOP position. Start the engine and run it at half throttle. The machine must not creep in neutral. If the machine creeps, go to Group 15 for early or later machines.

How do I perform a neutral return check?

For models 318 and 420, lock the pedals together. Move the hydrostatic lever to the full forward or reverse position. Depress the brake pedal(s). The hydrostatic lever must move to the “STOP” position from forward or reverse. If the lever does not return to the stop position, go to Group 15.

How do I perform a transmission drive check?

Start the engine and run it at fast idle. Operate the machine under no load and then under load conditions. Move the hydrostatic lever from slow forward to full forward, and then to full reverse. The machine must move, increase speed, slow down, change direction, and increase speed as the lever is moved from full forward to full reverse. The speed increase must be smooth, and the transmission suction line must not be uncomfortable to touch. If the machine does not perform as described, check the transmission oil level. If the oil level is okay, go to Group 15.

How do I perform a speed reduction check on 318 and 420 models?

Start the engine and run it at half throttle. Move the hydrostatic lever to the full forward position. Depress the right brake pedal. The hydrostatic lever must move to the slow forward position, the right wheel must stop, and the left wheel must continue to turn. Repeat the process by depressing the left brake pedal. The hydrostatic lever must move to the slow forward position, the left wheel must stop, and the right wheel must continue to turn. If the machine does not perform as described, go to Group 15.

How do I perform a two-speed axle lever check on the 420 model?

Start the engine and run it at half throttle. Move the two-speed axle lever to the slow speed position, then move the hydrostatic lever to the full forward position. Observe the ground speed. Next, move the two-speed axle lever to the fast speed position and move the hydrostatic lever to the full forward position. The ground speed must be approximately twice as fast. If the ground speed does not change as described, go to Group 15.

How do I perform a differential lock check on the 420 model?

Start the engine and run it at fast idle. Move the hydrostatic lever to the slow forward position. Turn the steering wheel left or right. Depress the differential lock and turn left or right. With the differential lock depressed, the machine must try to go straight forward when the steering wheel is turned, or the rear tire must show scuffing on the ground. If the system does not perform as described, go to Group 15.

What is the function of the hydrostatic transmission?

The hydrostatic transmission transfers power from the input (pump) shaft to the gear drive components of the transmission. It also provides infinitely variable speed and torque within a range in forward and reverse directions. Additionally, it supplies pressurized oil to the hydraulic lift and steering systems.

How does the hydrostatic transmission operate?

The transmission consists of a variable displacement, axial piston pump connected in a closed loop to a fixed displacement, axial piston motor. A charge pump and valve system is used to charge and lubricate the transmission. The charge pump is a gerotor-type, fixed displacement pump that continually pumps oil throughout the entire hydrostatic/hydraulic system whenever the engine is running.

How does the transmission operate in neutral?

With the transmission in the neutral position, springs in the pump cylinder bores force the pump pistons against the variable position swashplate, which is parallel to the pump body. The pistons do not reciprocate in the cylinder block, they merely rotate, so no oil is being drawn in or discharged from the pump. The pump is in a zero displacement position and the machine remains stationary.

How does the transmission operate in forward?

High pressure oil from the pump forces the forward check valve closed and supplies pressurized oil to the drive motor. The motor works in conjunction with a fixed position swashplate. Oil enters the piston bore through a port in the valve plate at a point where the piston is compressed in its bore. As the oil fills the piston bore, the piston is forced out and follows the contour of the swashplate. This causes the motor to rotate. Oil pressure within these components is directly proportional to the load encountered. This is known as the high pressure side of the system.

How does the transmission operate in reverse?

The operation of the transmission in reverse is similar to forward operation, except that the reverse swashplate position causes the pressurized oil flow to be reversed. When oil flow is reversed, the reverse check valve is forced closed, supplying pressurized oil to the drive motor. The forward check valve remains open to allow charge pressure oil to flow to the low pressure side of the system to make up for any oil lost due to internal lubrication/leakage.

How does the freewheel function operate?

When the forward/reverse check valves are manually engaged, the valves are forced off their seats and allow oil to flow from both sides of the motor to the reservoir. Normally, the motor would have excessive resistance to movement due to dynamic braking of the hydrostatic closed loop.

What should I do before making any tests or adjustments?

Always perform the system checkout procedures in Group 05 before making any tests or adjustments.

What should I do after completing a test or adjustment?

Upon completing a test or adjustment, check to see whether the problem is corrected by performing the checkout procedures in Group 05.

What do I do if the machine moves in one direction only?

Inspect transmission control linkage for wear or damage. See Section 50.
For 316 and 318 models, test for debris in check valves.
Inspect check valves for damaged valve seat, seals or stuck check ball. See Section 50.
Inspect internal transmission components for wear or damage. See Section 50.

What do I do if the machine will not move in either direction?

Inspect transmission control linkage for wear or damage. See Section 50.
Inspect transmission drive shaft and crankshaft pulley for loose cap screws or damage.
Check for improper charge pump installation (180 degrees off). See Section 50.
Test charge pump pressure.
Inspect check valves for damaged valve seat, seals or stuck check ball. See Section 50.
Inspect internal rotating group for scoring and wear (slippers, pistons and cylinder block, valve plate and cylinder block). If internal damage is found, check for missing welch plug.

What do I do if the transmission operation has erratic or low power, or speed will not increase?

Inspect brakes and brake linkage for wear or damage. See Section 60.
Inspect transmission control linkage for wear or damage. See Section 50.
Check for improper charge pump installation (180 degrees off). See Section 50.
Test charge pump pressure.
Inspect check valves for damaged valve seat, seals or stuck check ball. See Section 50.
Inspect internal rotating group for scoring and wear (slippers, pistons and cylinder block, valve plate and cylinder block). If internal damage is found, check for missing welch plug.
Check engine fast idle speed. See Section 220.
Inspect check valves for damaged seat, seals or stuck check ball. See Section 50.
Inspect internal rotating group for scoring and wear (slippers, pistons and cylinder block, valve plate and cylinder block). If internal damage is found check for missing welch plug.

What do I do if the transmission operates hot?

Check transmission temperature.
Check all cooling components for plugged or restricted condition.
For 318 and 420 models, test steering valve for neutral return.
Test charge pump pressure.
Inspect internal transmission components for wear or damage. See Section 50.
Check for dirt accumulation on transmission causing transmission oil to overheat.
Check for high draft loads causing transmission oil to overheat.

What do I do if the machine freewheels?

Inspect transmission control linkage for loose connections allowing swashplate movement under load. See Section 50.
For 316 and 318 models, test for debris in check valves.
Inspect check valves for damaged valve seat, seals or stuck check ball. See Section 50.
Test charge pump pressure.
Inspect internal rotating group for scoring and wear (slippers, pistons and cylinder block, valve plate and cylinder block). If internal damage is found check for missing welch plug.

What do I do if the hydraulic system is noisy?

Check power steering valve, if equipped, or hydraulic control valve for overheating. If either valve is too hot to touch after 1/2 hour of operation, disassemble valve and repair internal leak. See Section 60 or 70.
Adjust hydrostatic transmission linkage for positive neutral position.
Check steel hydraulic lines for vibration, especially the line that runs from the charge pump to the steering valve on later 318 and 420 models, or the line that runs from the charge pump to the SCV on early 318 and 420 models. Secure with clamps or replace with a rubber pressure hose rated at 8274 kPa (1200 psi).
Adjust charge relief valve so that charge pressure is above 1379 kPa (200 psi). The increased charge pressure will not cause any problems and it may eliminate the noise, if it is caused by charge relief valve chattering.
Increase implement relief pressure to upper limit of specification.

What do I do if there are no hydraulics after being serviced?

Check for improper charge pump installation (180 degrees off). See Section 50.
Check for proper installation of transmission output shaft bearing into aluminum case. If installed too shallow, the motor rotating group will not contact the valve plate. See Section 50.

What do I do if the charge pump seal repeatedly fails?

Inspect the seal surface on the shaft.
Inspect seal for cuts which may be caused by installing seal over shaft without covering sharp splines.
Check for a loose or worn U-Joint on the drive shaft.
Inspect charge pump for wear or damage. Charge pressure may be getting into the seal area because of internal pump leakage. See Section 50.

How do I perform a check valve debris check?

With the engine OFF and the service park brake OFF:

For 316 and 318 models, engage the manual push lever and push the machine forward to remove debris from check valves.
For early 420 models, remove the fender deck. Remove and inspect check valves for debris. Repair or replace if necessary.
For later 420 models, remove the fender deck. Manually depress the check valve “buttons” and push the machine forward to remove debris from check valves.

Repeat Transmission Drive Check in Group 05.

How do I perform a charge pump pressure test?

Heat hydraulic oil to 43˚C (110˚F). Make test connections from JT01765 Lawn and Grounds Care Products Hydraulic Fitting Kit. Run engine at slow idle. Look and record pressure reading. Charge pressure must be 620—1240 kPa (90—180 psi).

If charge pressure is OK, inspect check valves for wear or damage. See Section 50 and then repeat the test.
If charge pressure is low, replace filter, then repeat the test.
If charge pressure is still low, proceed with a charge pump suction line check.

What is the caution to be aware of when performing a charge pump pressure test?

To avoid injury from escaping hydraulic oil under pressure, relieve the pressure in the system by stopping the engine and operating all hydraulic control valves.

What is the important note to be aware of when performing a charge pump pressure test?

Hydraulic control levers must remain in neutral position and engine must be run at slow idle. Pressure gauge will be damaged if a hydraulic function is actuated or test is run at fast idle. It is normal for charge pressure to increase as engine speed or implement pressure increases. Charge pressure up to 3448 kPa (500 psi) at fast idle is normal.

How do I perform a charge pump suction line check?

Inspect the suction line for restriction, loose hose clamp, holes or damage that would cause air leakage.

If the suction line is OK, proceed to a charge relief valve check.
If the suction line is damaged, repair or replace it, then bleed the hydraulic system. See Section 270, Group 20.

How do I perform a charge relief valve check?

Remove the charge relief valve and check for a broken spring or a stuck or damaged valve. Replace broken parts.

If the charge relief valve or spring is worn, proceed to charge relief valve adjustment.
If the charge relief valve is not damaged, proceed to implement relief valve pressure test.

How do I perform a charge relief valve adjustment?

Only use shims to increase pressure when valve or spring are worn. Charge pressure will not increase by adding shims if another component is leaking. Add shims in spring retainer to increase charge pressure to specification. Check charge pressure. If charge pressure is still low, proceed to implement relief valve pressure test.

How do I perform an implement relief valve pressure test?

Make test connections from JT01765 Lawn and Grounds Care Products Hydraulic Fitting Kit. Heat hydraulic oil to 43˚C (110˚F). Run engine at fast idle. Move and hold control valve lever in full raise position. Look and record pressure reading. Implement pressure must be 5861—6722 kPa (850—975 psi).

If implement pressure is OK, proceed to charge pump flow test.
If implement pressure is low, proceed to implement relief valve check.

What is the caution to be aware of when performing an implement relief valve pressure test?

To avoid injury from escaping hydraulic oil under pressure, relieve the pressure in the system by stopping the engine and operating all hydraulic control valves.

How do I perform an implement relief valve check?

Remove the implement relief valve and check for a broken spring or a stuck or damaged valve. The implement relief valve spring is a much heavier spring than the charge relief valve spring.

If the implement relief valve is not damaged, proceed to implement relief valve adjustment.
If the implement relief valve is damaged, replace damaged valve parts, then check implement pressure. If implement pressure is still low, proceed to implement relief valve adjustment.

How do I perform an implement relief valve adjustment?

Only use shims to increase pressure when valve or spring are worn. Implement pressure will not increase by adding shims if another component is leaking. Add shims in spring retainer to increase implement pressure to specification. Check implement pressure. If implement pressure is still low, proceed to charge pump flow test.

How do I perform a charge pump flow test?

Make front outlet connections from JT01765 Lawn and Grounds Care Products Hydraulic Fitting Kit and JT05469 Flowmeter Kit. Heat hydraulic oil to 43˚C (110˚F). Run machine at fast idle. Move and hold outside hydraulic control lever in implement lower position. Turn load valve until pressure reaches 3450 kPa (500 psi). Look to see that pump flow must be a minimum of 11 L/min (3 gpm).

If charge pump flow is OK, inspect transmission internal components for wear or damage. See Section 50.
If charge pump flow is not OK, inspect charge pump for sheared drive pin, wear or damage. Repair or replace, then test charge pump flow.

What is the caution to be aware of when performing a charge pump flow test?

To avoid injury from escaping hydraulic oil under pressure, relieve the pressure in the system by stopping the engine and operating all hydraulic control valves.

How do I perform a welch plug location check?

If the welch plug is missing, unfiltered oil is flowing through the transmission, possibly causing excessive wear of the rotating groups and charge pump. Remove the transmission oil filter. Check for the welch plug at the specified position. Put a piece of wire through the threaded fitting. It must hit the welch plug and not come out of the kidney shaped port. If the welch plug is missing, install a new one through the suction hose fitting. Use LOCTITE thread sealant and stake into housing.

How do I perform a steering valve neutral check on 318 and 420 models?

Make test connections from JT01765 Lawn and Grounds Care Products Hydraulic Fitting Kit. Heat hydraulic oil to 43˚C (110˚F). Run engine at slow idle. Move steering wheel to left and right turn position. Look to see that when steering wheel is being turned pressure should increase. When steering wheel is stopped (neutral position) pressure must drop to approximately 620—1240 kPa (90—180 psi). Repeat several times to ensure neutral position.

If steering valve returns to neutral, steering valve is OK.
If steering valve does not return to neutral, remove and repair steering valve. See Section 60.

What is the caution to be aware of when performing a steering valve neutral check?

To avoid injury from escaping hydraulic oil under pressure, relieve the pressure in the system by stopping the engine and operating all hydraulic control valves.

What are the notes to be aware of when performing a steering valve neutral check?

The hydrostatic transmission should not exceed 93˚C (200˚F) as a continuous operating temperature.

How do I perform a hydrostatic lever friction adjustment?

Early models: Remove left and right engine side panels, battery and battery base.
Later models: Remove right-hand pedestal screen/panel.

Connect a scale to the hydrostatic control lever. Adjust friction disks by tightening or loosening the lock nut until 31—44.5 N (7—10 lb force) is required to move the hydrostatic control lever.

How do I perform a neutral return linkage adjustment?

Hydrostatic lever friction must be adjusted previous to this adjustment.

How do I perform a neutral return linkage adjustment on Version One—316 and Version Two—318 (Sliding Lever Linkage)?

This adjustment must be made with pedestal panels installed and hardware tightened. Remove belly screen from underneath machine. On 318, lock both brake pedals together. Apply and lock park brake. Adjust cam plate position by loosening lock nuts and moving cam plate until neutral guide just enters neutral slot in cam plate. Be sure neutral guide does not hit top of cam plate neutral slot. Tighten lock nuts. Check the position of the hydrostatic control lever. The lever must be in the N/STOP notch of the dash panel. If necessary, loosen the lock nut and turn the eccentric nut until the lever is in the N/STOP notch of the dash panel. Tighten lock nut.

How do I perform a neutral return linkage adjustment on Versions One—318 and 420, (J-Bolt Style Linkage)?

This adjustment must be made with pedestal panels installed and hardware tightened. Remove belly screen/pan from underneath machine. Lock both brake pedals together. Apply and lock park brake. Adjust cam plate position by tightening or loosening J-Bolt lock nuts until neutral guide just enters neutral slot in cam plate. Be sure neutral guide does not hit.

How do I perform a neutral adjustment on Version One—All Models and Version Two—318?

This adjustment must be made with pedestal panels installed and hardware tightened. Remove fender deck. Raise the rear of the machine and put jack stands under the frame. Move the hydrostatic control lever to the N/STOP position. On 420, move the Two-speed axle lever to the low speed position. Start engine and check for tire movement. Readjust if necessary.

How do I perform a neutral and neutral return linkage adjustment on Later Versions—All Models (Detented Neutral Style Linkage)?

Remove the right-hand pedestal screen, belly screen/pan and fender deck. Move and secure fuel tank off to the left side of machine to gain access to linkage. Adjust length of detent spring to 50 mm (1.970 in.). Loosen bolt and adjust eccentric until rear wheels stop turning, then tighten eccentric bolt. Stop engine. Loosen bolt and adjust eccentric until bolt is exactly centered in hole, while making sure roller is centered in notch of cam plate. Tighten bolt and eccentric bolt while holding eccentric in place. Adjust hydrostatic shift lever friction.

What is the caution to be aware of when performing a neutral and neutral return linkage adjustment?

Be aware of spinning drive shaft and wheels when performing the next adjustment.

How do I perform a two-speed axle lever linkage check on the 420?

Remove belly pan. Inspect two-speed axle lever linkage for missing pin, broken spring, wear or damage. Plate notch must engage slots easily.

If the linkage is OK, proceed to two-speed axle lever detent adjustment.
If the linkage is damaged, repair or replace as necessary.

How do I perform a Two-speed Axle Lever Detent Adjustment?

Remove fender deck and fuel tank. Remove detent screw, spring and ball. Inspect parts for damage; replace as necessary. Install ball and spring. Apply thread lock and sealer (low strength) on detent screw threads. Install and tighten detent screw. If two-speed lever is hard to move, turn detent screw counterclockwise one turn. If detent is OK, proceed to differential inspection.

How do I inspect the differential?

Remove and disassemble differential. (See procedures in Section 50.) Inspect shifter fork and two-speed gears for improper assembly, wear or damage.

How do I perform a differential lock linkage check on the 420?

Remove belly pan. Inspect differential lock linkage for missing pin, bent rod, wear or damage. Differential lock shift rod must slide in and out easily.

If the linkage is OK, proceed to differential inspection.
If the linkage is damaged, repair or replace as necessary.

How do I perform a steering system oil leak check on 318 and 420 models?

Check hydraulic oil level, condition and viscosity. Inspect for external hydraulic oil leakage from steering valve, cylinder, lines and fittings.

How do I perform a hydrostatic steering system check on 318 and 420 models?

Power Steering Check: Start engine and run at full throttle. Turn steering wheel full left, then full right. Feel for smooth, constant effort. Look to see that wheels must stop turning when steering wheel is stopped. Look to see that wheels must move full left and full right and stops must contact axle. Count the number of revolutions of the steering wheel from a full right turn to a full left turn then, from a full left turn to a full right turn. Approximate revolutions from right turn to left is 3 and from left turn to right is 2-1/2.
- If the wheels continue turning after steering wheel is stopped, go to Group 15.
- If the stops do not contact the axle, go to Group 15.
- If the number of steering wheel revolutions is incorrect, go to Group 15.
Manual Steering Check: Turn engine OFF. Turn steering wheel full left, then full right. Look to see that the wheels must move full left and full right and the stops must contact axle.
- If the wheels do not move full left and full right, remove and inspect steering valve check valve. See Section 60.

How do I perform a turn brake check on 318 and 420 models?

Drive the machine forward at medium speed. Depress the left, then right turn brake. Look to see that the left, then right wheel must stop and other must continue driving. If not OK, inspect and adjust brake shoes. See Section 60.

What do I do if the steering system does not operate properly?

Select the appropriate symptom from the list below. After selecting the appropriate symptom, go to that step and perform the following checks, tests, or adjustments in the order shown to isolate and repair the malfunction:

STEERING WANDER
STEERING SHIMMY
SLUGGISH STEERING RESPONSE
LOST MOTION AT THE STEERING WHEEL
HIGH STEERING EFFORT IN ONE DIRECTION
HIGH STEERING EFFORT IN BOTH DIRECTIONS
WHEELS DO NOT HIT STOP
STEERING EFFORT IS ERRATIC
WHEELS CONTINUE TURNING AFTER STEERING WHEEL IS STOPPED

What should I check for high steering effort in both directions?

Check for improperly mounted tires or wheels.
Check for binding of steering linkage and cylinder.
Check for bent or restricted return line, oil cooler (if equipped) or oil filter.
Check implement relief pressure. See Section 250.
Check for steering valve check ball missing, damaged, or in “IN” port. See Section 60.

What should I check if the wheels continue turning after the steering wheel is stopped?

Inspect valve plate for sticking: See Section 60.
Inspect steering valve springs for wear or damage: See Section 60.

How do I perform a hydraulic oil warm-up procedure?

Remove belly screen/pan. Install JDG282 Temperature Gauge on transmission oil filter. Apply park brake. Start engine and run at full throttle. Heat oil to temperature specified in test.

How do I perform a steering system leakage test?

Heat hydraulic oil to 43˚C (110˚F). Start engine and run at slow idle. With wheels in a maximum right position, turn steering wheel with a constant torque of 6.8 N·m (60 lb-in.) for one minute. Look to see that the RPM must not exceed 6. With wheels in a maximum left position, turn steering wheel with a constant torque of 6.8 N·m (60 lb-in.) for one minute. Look to see that the RPM must not exceed 6.

If RPM is 6 or less, the steering system is OK.
If RPM is more than 6, proceed to steering valve leakage test.

How do I perform a steering valve leakage test?

Remove cap nut on left front side of fender deck and raise fender deck to access hydraulic lines. Disconnect hydraulic lines at fittings and plug fittings with JT03391 Plugs. Start engine and run at slow idle. With wheels in a maximum right position, turn steering wheel with a constant torque of 6.8 N·m (60 lb-in.). Look to see that the RPM must not exceed 6. With wheels in a maximum left position, turn steering wheel with a constant torque of 6.8 N·m (60 lb-in.). Look to see that the RPM must not exceed 6.

If RPM is 6 or less, steering valve is OK and replace steering cylinder.
If RPM is more than 6, remove and repair steering valve. (See Section 60).

What is the caution to be aware of when performing a steering valve leakage test?

To avoid injury from escaping hydraulic oil under pressure, relieve the pressure in the system by stopping the engine and operating all hydraulic control valves.

How do I perform a hydraulic system oil leak check?

Inspect control valve, cylinders, lines, hoses and fittings for external hydraulic oil leakage.

How do I perform a hydraulic control valve check?

Run engine at full throttle. Pull control valve lever rearward to raise implement and release lever. Look to see that implement must raise and hold position without dropping and the lever must return to neutral. Push control valve lever forward to lower implement and release lever. Look to see that implement must lower and hold position and the lever must return to neutral. Pull control valve lever rearward to raise implement and release lever. Look to see that the implement must raise and hold position and the lever must return to neutral. Push control valve lever forward to float position and release lever. Look to see that the implement must lower to ground and lever must stay in float position. Pull control valve lever rearward and raise implement halfway. Turn engine OFF. Pull control valve rearward to raise implement. Look to see that the implement must not move down.

What do I do if the hydraulic system is inoperative?

Check for slipping or broken transmission drive shaft. See Section 50.
Check for proper charge pump housing installation. See Section 50.
Check hoses for proper attaching location.
Check for dented or restricted lines.
Test charge pump pressure. See Section 250.
Check suction line for air leaks. See Section 250.
Check for plugged oil filter.
Test implement relief valve pressure. See Section 250.
For 318 and 420 models, check for steering valve check ball missing, damaged, or in “IN” port. See Section 60.

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